LIVE from the Camino Santiago to Rome Part 1

[roving_rufus]

So having finished my camino from home over the last 4 years, this morning I set out from Santiago to head to Rome, a project that will probably take another few years!

Day 1 Santiago de Compostela to Goimil 31km
I headed out in silence from the city. Until I got to Vilamaior I met a handful of pilgrims, then it became a steady stream and by San Paio it was like walking into a wall of pilgrims. I stopped at San Paio for a coffee and missed most of the rain. But knowing if I continued on the Camino Frances I would be walking into a dense wall of pilgrims until Sarria, I decided on an alternative route. So I veered off onto the Camino Norte alternative route. Suddenly, the vast numbers of pilgrims switched to a tiny trickle. But much of the day is walking on tracks beside a main road, then walking on tar roads through the country. So I am in Twin Pines B&b which does a pilgrim deal.

 

[jsalt]

Buen camino! I did the same thing, starting from Santiago on 11 Feb 2019, so I passed very few peregrinos along the way. I stayed on the CF until just before Puente la Reina, veering off onto the Aragones, crossing the Somport Pass in thick snow on 20 Mar 2019. At Pau I took a break and spent 10 days visiting family in the UK, then returned to Pau on 3 Apr. I managed to negotiate my way through Toulouse and made it to Castres before I hit the Easter weekend on Fri 19 Apr (my birthday!) . . . and could no longer find accommodation. Up until then I was winging it. I finally decided to give up, as I couldn’t afford expensive hotels in France, so I changed my return flight and went home. I’ve always intended to go back and continue from Castres, but I don’t think my budget can do it now, not through France and Italy.

 

[roving_rufus]

Buen camino! I did the same thing, starting from Santiago on 11 Feb 2019, so I passed very few peregrinos along the way. I stayed on the CF until just before Puente la Reina, veering off onto the Aragones, crossing the Somport Pass in thick snow on 20 Mar 2019. At Pau I took a break and spent 10 days visiting family in the UK, then returned to Pau on 3 Apr. I managed to negotiate my way through Toulouse and made it to Castres before I hit the Easter weekend on Fri 19 Apr (my birthday!) . . . and could no longer find accommodation. Up until then I was winging it. I finally decided to give up, as I couldn’t afford expensive hotels in France, so I changed my return flight and went home. I’ve always intended to go back and continue from Castres, but I don’t think my budget can do it now, not through France and Italy.

I have a slightly different plan - I'm going to Logrono and follow Iganciano/Ebro/Catalan caminos to Barcelona. Like pilgrims of old I am going to ship across the sea to Genoa in Italy- (Barcelona-Genoa ferry). I will have a few days on the Via della Costa before joining the VF which has pilgrim accommodation.

 

[timr]

I have a slightly different plan - I'm going to Logrono and follow Iganciano/Ebro/Catalan caminos to Barcelona. Like pilgrims of old I am going to ship across the sea to Genoa in Italy- (Barcelona-Genoa ferry). I will have a few days on the Via della Costa before joining the VF which has pilgrim accommodation.

The Ignaciano is magnificent! I did it in November. You are unlikely to meet anyone, but if you do, it will most likely be a group of 20 or so alumni of a Jesuit Highschool in the States!! Or indeed a group of Jesuits.

Sailing to Genoa sounds wonderful - I was last there hitchhiikng in 1975, Where do the years go.....?

I am jealous and admiring at the same time.

Buen Camino!!

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 2 - on the Camino Norte- Goimil to Sobrado

So 10km on road this morning on the Norte alternative to reach Boimorto...lots of Norte pilgrims having coffee here. Then onwards to the albergue in monastery in Sobrado.
Much more manageable numbers of pilgrims giving me strange looks as I walk backwards than if I had tried the CF as far as Sarria. Grey day with a cool wind- definitely needed more than a t-shirt!

Tomorrow is a veer onto the Camino Verde to Friol.

 

[LTfit]

All I can say is what an adventure!

I've only walked a few stages backwards but it was a nice experience seeing smiling faces head on - those were the days when pilgrims didn't wear headphones or earplugs and actually stopped me to chat and ask if I had been to Santiago.

May you be safe and remain healthy during your pilgrimage.

 

[VNwalking]

Like pilgrims of old I am going to ship across the sea to Genoa in Italy- (Barcelona-Genoa ferry). I will have a few days on the Via della Costa before joining the VF which has pilgrim accommodation.

I stay sometimes above Ponte dell'Olio, which is on the Nure River South of Piacenza. Someone was telling me there is a cammino going through the area, a branch of the Francigena. It seems far-fetched to me, but I suppose a branch from Genoa could cross that Appennines near there. I'd be interested to know if you hear or read anything like that.

 

[timr]

I stay sometimes above Ponte dell'Olio, which is on the Nure River South of Piacenza. Someone was telling me there is a cammino going through the area, a branch of the Francigena. It seems far-fetched to me, but I suppose a branch from Genoa could cross that Appennines near there. I'd be interested to know if you hear or read anything like that.

The Via Postumia passes from Genoa over through Piacenza (on the VF) and on to Eastern Europe. I guess it is more of a route to Santiago from Eastern Europe. I have pictures somewhere of 'arrows' outside the Basilica in Budapest which pointed you there. But from Genoa to connect with the VF there, it is a bit in the wrong direction.

I guess you would go along the coast to Sarzana. That is a very lovely bit of the VF and if you have crossed the English Channel it is the first time you find the sea again, just below in Massa!

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 3 Sobrado to Friol on Camino verde

Enjoyed staying in the monastery in Sobrado, but was in bed before compline. Cool and breezy but sunnier today so a good day for a walk! The first half I followed the camino norte - it seemed to involve alot of road, or beside the road with a few sections of lane- I think the senda type path which was only about 4km by a busy road seemed unending! But then I tuned right off the Norte onto the Verde, and I was suddenly on dirt lane in pine forest for a few kms. My first backwards issue was at end of forest I came to a t-junction, I don't remember this from my notes or map was my thought, then realised what I took as a fence straight on was in fact a gate. The rest of the way meandered on lanes and paths, some still used by farmers, others little travelled. One stream to cross on uneven stepping stones was the most eventful part of the day. But soon enough I reached a recreated castro and into a river park to the centre of Friol. So no albergue but Casa Benigno does a pilgrim deal - I suspect pilgrims make up vast proportion of their pension business, it's not luxury, I am enjoying the retro blue coloured bathroom suite, but plenty of hot water!

 

[timr]

I remember the day I arrived, a long time ago now in 2016 ,Casa Benigno was "closed" (on a Sunday) but I had contacted them in advance and they could not have been more helpful. I remember a huge amount of "solid" food! It was retro then, so it must be even more retro now.
Buen camino. Tim

 

[roving_rufus]

I remember the day I arrived, a long time ago now in 2016 ,Casa Benigno was "closed" (on a Sunday) but I had contacted them in advance and they could not have been more helpful. A remember a huge amount of "solid" food! It was retro then, so it must be even more retro now.
Buen camino. Tim

They have been so wonderful! And the restaurant at lunchtime with its menu del dia - I am hugely outnumbered by men who seem to be enjoying the solid, plain cooking in good quantities- Given I am Irish it's like many a locals type place at home geared for farmers (minus the mashed potatoes!). In fact if I moved this place to somewhere like Ballyconnell in Co Cavan it would probably thrive!

 

[Pilgrim 122]

This is a great pilgrimage! I am doing the reverse, walking from Rome to Santiago. I have got as far as Jaca. I really wish I'd thought of this route and taking the ferry Barcelona to Genoa. Its very satisfying following the routes of medieval pilgrims, and I would probably have arrived at Santiago by now if I had! I hope all goes well for you.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 4 & 5 Friol to Lugo on Camino Verde plus migraine

So slept well in Friol (even with its retro style), and left at 6.30. As usual leaving town was on road, but soon enough we were onto lanes - camino real- with oaks, chestnuts and stone walls between small hamlets and farms. The middle section was on small country roads - met a group of dogs in O Veral - I gave up trying to get through the hamlet to the church and kept on the road, but even then I got a good barking at. Then onto a little path in woods by a stream for many kilometres - utterly delightful! Then of course a bit of urban walking and a good steep hill up into Lugo with its walls. But truthfully I saw little of it- I could feel a migraine coming on and rushed to my accommodation (very glad not to have chosen a dorm bed!) to lie down in dark.

Thankfully I woke this morning and felt much better. I had tried last night to rebook the accommodation for next 3 nights on the Via Kunig (no albergues just hotels and pensions available and so I had to pre-book) but to no available in 2 of the 3 as they were fully booked. I felt OK this morning so decided to try walking but quickly realised that I wasn't really over migraine, and headed back into Lugo and plan B - taking a bus and skipping a stage. It's one of the issues of prebooking that if something happens that you can't walk, it creates problems! But after these 3 days I am back onto the CF and not the same need to book! Bit disappointed but I am realistic about not being well.

 

[timr]

sorry about the migraine. Lugo a good place to chill I think. I met quite a few dogs on that section (going the other way) and a lot of mud. I love the photos. My favourite type of path.

 

[Pilgrim 122]

I hope you are feeling better now .

 

[Kirkie]

So, where are you, more or less? I am in Asturias, but as I am geographically challenged it is enough to give you a metaphorical wave and wish you well, may the migraine disappear...

 

[roving_rufus]

So, where are you, more or less? I am in Asturias, but as I am geographically challenged it is enough to give you a metaphorical wave and wish you well, may the migraine disappear...

Migraine has resolved. So I am walking through Baralla to Becerrea (still in Galicia) and tomorrow I reach Pedrafita do Cebreiro. And on Saturday I rejoin the CF and head for Villafranca del Bierzo.

 

[Pilgrim 122]

About how many days will you be away for on each section of the pilgrimage.?
I am doing about 3 weeks at a time and I wondered if that was similar to you or if you were away for longer each time.

 

[roving_rufus]

About how many days will you be away for on each section of the pilgrimage.?
I am doing about 3 weeks at a time and I wondered if that was similar to you or if you were away for longer each time.

Occasionally a week but 3 weeks together mainly.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 6 to Becerrea
So after my migraine and struggling to change bookings I took the bus from Lugo to A Veiga to the Hotel Prados - a very common stopping point for pilgrims on the Via Kunig. But just be aware - it was nearly full the night I stayed and fully booked the night after- a booking is needed!
So a good night's sleep put the migraine completely past, and I started out on a misty morning. At Sobrado I detoured as the Via Kunig wanders away to see a church, instead I took a more direct route to cross the motorway and onto Santa Cruz, were the dogs barking must have wakened the entire village. But then came lovely paths and lanes through woods for much of the early morning to Baralla. A nice Via Kunig friendly bar (Bar Central) provided a sello and coffee. Then back to more lovely lanes climbing up. After crossing the N-VI main rd there is a steep and rocky path up (if you were going to SdeC you'd be going down it - wouldn't advise it in wet weather, I'd stick to main road) before a track through forestry to tge very top of the hill. Unfortunately, then a walk on the N-VI, there isn't much traffic on it now due to motorway, but still not brilliant. But the issue of the day was a very overgrown path between Cerexial and Cadoalla, I got several nettle stings and battled my way through (if not cleared I think there is an alternative following a minor rd), I was actually thrilled to see tarmac road at the end!
Becerrea is my stop for the night, in Pension Os Ancares- all controlled by WiFi, but quite comfy. And it's raining - so not going to explore any further!

 

[Pilgrim 122]

I'm planning to take the via Kunig, probably next year , this is really useful thank you.

 

[roving_rufus]

I'm planning to take the via Kunig, probably next year , this is really useful thank you.

I will add a separate post about the Via Kunig as so little info is about - there is a Facebook group for it too, and the website is good - but always good to get some first hand experience!

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 7 Via Kunig Becerrea to Pedrafita

So rain, the first of my trip! But got lucky as last bar in town was open for coffee (sorry to those heading to SdeC). Today mainly follows the camino real though the section Becerrea to As Nogais is now the old N6 - with a gradual climb and gentle descent with a few locals passing in cars. But the 2nd half from As Nogais to Pedrafita is on track. But I I had quite the climb and it was very humid - cycling between sticky, mizzle, drizzle and light rain - and I got a mix of wet and sweaty. But at the top of the climb the weather changed and suddenly there was a strong breeze, the clouds lifted and broke to let some blue skies and sun through. Then I got to enjoy the views across the valley to the main CF route as walked along the ridge. Then a short downhill to Pedrafita which suddenly appeared around a corner.
Got a very elaborate stamp in Bar Chavello in As Nogais!
Very lovely day of walking!

Really been enjoying the Via Kunig - kind of will find it strange to be back in the land of many pilgrims when I join the CF tomorrow in Las Herrerias, as this has been definitely the road less travelled. The route has been well marked (would still download tracks for it too), several bars and accommodations are pilgrim friendly- and locals still see pilgrims as a novelty!

!

 

[Pilgrim 122]

I will add a separate post about the Via Kunig as so little info is about - there is a Facebook group for it too, and the website is good - but always good to get some first hand experience!

That would be great. What you have written on this thread is really quite thorough, thank you for taking the time and trouble to describe it. It seems a very useful detour away from the CF for those who are looking for an alternative.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 8 Pedrafita to Villafranca del bierzo

So the last 10km of the Via Kunig proved the most difficult! Well the section Pedrafita through El Castro and down to the N6 was easy! But the path from just above Las Herrerias through San Tirso and up to the N6 is currently overgrown. The worst part I came to first as I was going backwards which is the section between crossing the stream and up to the N6 - its currently so overgrown that section is nearly impassable! The rest is overgrown but manageable with long sleeves, long trousers and a big stick to whack a route through. Truthfully, it may be a lovely idea of a path but I spent so long getting through it that I don't recommend it, instead take the road route via Lamas unless it improves.

Then I joined the Camino Frances and the steady stream of pilgrims. As I am walking back- I get a lot of weird looks, asked if I am going to Santiago because I am going the wrong way, bemused looks, asked if they are on the right path and going the correct direction for Santiago, smiles and buen caminos. Then at Trabadelo I saw someone walking backwards but the he stopped in the bar, so I assumed he was staying in town and just wanted a drink- however I stopped in Pereje to eat my banana and there he appeared- and delightfully I had company to walk to Villafranca! That is very unusual- he is staying in same albergue and the owners are surprised there are 2 of us going backwards heading to Rome.

 

[roving_rufus]

Days 9, 10, 11, 12
Villafranca to Molinaseca, Molinaseca to Rabanal, Rabanal to Hospital de Orbigo and Hospital to Leon

So back on the CF! Lots of bars, water fountains, albergues and pilgrims. It's fairly easy to find the route backwards (except in Leon city centre). But with more flexibility I could do a few longer days that I could on Via Kunig which were dictated by accomodation.

But yesterday heading down from Rabanal- I got fed up saying Buen camino. It's one of those sections were pilgrims stay in every village, so I never really got a kilometre of quiet! So this morning I decided just to wave and say nothing for the first few hours- which helped me over my buen camino fatigue.

Also coming down from Rabanal it was raining and the path was wet and a bit floody in parts, so I did at times walk the road - then a Guardia Civil drive past uphill and 2 minutes later came back to check on me - telling them I was heading to Rome they were impressed and wished me luck, and gave me a big wave as they turned and sped off up the hill.

As it was so wet I stopped in the Cowboy Bar in El Ganso - what a change! Lovely lady behind bar, clean - and on a wet morning the fire was roaring away!

 

[Pilgrim 122]

I imagine it must be a bit tiresome saying Buen Camino with so many pilgrims coming the other way. When I set out from Rome I quite enjoyed meeting the pilgrims going the 'right' way and amused myself by counting them. I think the most was 20 in a day so no comparison!
The further along the CF the less there will be I suppose.

 

[roving_rufus]

I imagine it must be a bit tiresome saying Buen Camino with so many pilgrims coming the other way. When I set out from Rome I quite enjoyed meeting the pilgrims going the 'right' way and amused myself by counting them. I think the most was 20 in a day so no comparison!
The further along the CF the less there will be I suppose.

I think most days it's okay- just it was 37km and it's one section that pilgrims are really spread out in multiple small villages so there isn't a lull in the stream. Whereas, this morning leaving Leon it as 8km before I met my first pilgrims. And I had coffee before I met any of them!

 

[roving_rufus]

Days 13 and 14 Hospital de Orbigo to Leon and Leon to Reliegos

So had a fairly chilled evening in Hospital de Orbigo with a storm rumbling. Then off on the senda by N120 directly to Leon. But after Valverde I started to feel off, and on reaching Virgin del Camino I took a bus into Leon to the accomodation I had booked. After a proper lunch and a rest I felt much better, and took bus back out and strolled into the city that last 8km.
I had thought of a couple of longer days to finish my camino - but after yesterday I decided on a few shorter days to finish - and as I need somewhere with transport I plumped for Sahagun. So a split of 25km to Reliegos today, then 20km to Bercianos tomorrow followed by just 10km to Sahagun and then a train.
So walked out of Leon- finding a bar just opening at Puente Castro at 7am for coffee. Then it was a fairly unremarkable walk to Reliegos. Enjoyed the pasteleria in Mansilla for a long break as I was wildly early. It's my first time to stay in Reliegos (previously I stayed in Mansilla) and I don't get the sense of being too busy sightseeing this evening.

 

[chinacat]

25k is a shorter day?!

You certainly have your ‘camino legs’ after your current perambulations!
Shame you have to ‘pause’ really.

You’ve walked an interesting route - I really enjoyed reading about your meandering way.

Buen Camino for your continuing journey!

 

[roving_rufus]

25k is a shorter day?!

You certainly have your ‘camino legs’ after your current perambulations!
Shame you have to ‘pause’ really.

You’ve walked an interesting route - I really enjoyed reading about your meandering way.

Buen Camino for your continuing journey!

Yes - it's a shame to stop but my boss might not be too happy if I didn't come back to work.
And 25km is a very nice day's walk especially on the relatively ease of Leon to Reliegos. Did 10km today into Sahagun and on that flat it was a stroll in my head.

But very sorry to be finishing! I really just feel in the swing of things now! Until next year God willing.

 

[Pilgrim 122]

Thanks for doing this write up I've enjoyed following you. I look forward to the next stage.