Hi
@maryloufrommadison
There is a lot of advice from other members before this, most of it really good advice. I would like to offer something slightly different. I want to let you know about an opportunity that, really, you only ever get once because you only ever do a First Camino once. After you have done your First Camino you will be an expert on doing Caminos and you will probably be tempted to post advice on this forum like the rest of us.
I think that the best way to let you know about this opportunity is to briefly tell you what happened on and before my First Camino. I am male and I turned 66 while on my First Camino. Like many (most) of the people who hang out on this forum I like to be in control, I have had a reasonably successful life and I am comfortable in my dotage. I still like to have fun but, generally, I don't do the high risk activities that I did in my youth such as racing a motorcycle. Nothing special about me, just an average old guy much like many others out there.
After I retired from work (involuntarily) I spent some time coming to grips with what my role in the world might be now that I wasn't telling other people what to do (as a manager) and without an identity that came from my job and job title. As part of that I joined the local hiking club because hiking was something that I very much enjoyed in my late teens and twenties. I wasn't very fit and I was a bit overweight but after a couple of months and through walking during the week around my local streets I got fit enough that I could keep up with the other slow hikers but not the really fit and keen ones. I was comfortable walking 5-10 kilometres (around 3-6 miles) daily.
One Sunday in late March 2019 I was in the hiking club's bus on my way to a hike when two younger women (sisters) sitting in front of me started talking between themselves about this walk that they were planning in Spain. They called it the Camino and at that time I would have had trouble spelling it as I knew nothing about it. I did have some vague memories of reading a newspaper or magazine article some years prior about walking through fabulous old villages in Spain but that was it. However, something in their conversation caught my attention. As they talked, something called to me and in that moment I knew that I had to do this walk.
After the hike I caught up with the two women and asked them about their planned trip. For some (unknown) reason they didn't want to share much about their trip (which was part of the Frances combined with the Primitivo) but they did tell me that if I was interested then I should look into walking the
Camino Frances. When I got home that night that is what I did and discovered that it was an 800klm walk from St. Jean Pied de Port (I know, I know it doesn't start there) to Santiago de Compostela.
The magnitude of this walk both excited me and terrified me. The doubts started immediately, "How could 'I' imagine that I would be able to walk 800klms. What's more in a foreign country that I had never been to before and where they spoke a language that I didn't understand".
I immediately dropped into "planning mode" and started thinking about all the things that I would need to get organised before I could even contemplate doing this walk. I would need to get much fitter, I would need a backpack and special hiking/walking clothes and boots, a sleeping bag, what about vaccinations/water purification tablets, I would need a map ......... on and on.
After a couple of days of this I realised that these things were all Buts. You know, I am going to do X
but after I have done Z, because I need to have done Z in order to do X. Then I made the mistake/brilliant step of telling my family that I wanted to head off to Spain to walk 800klms. While no one actually said it, I could see that they were thinking "he will never be able to walk 800klms". This helped to spur me on. I started preparing, I bought a backpack, filled it with cans of food to weight it down and started doing increased distances around my neighbourhood. I started to prepare a training schedule that had me being "fit enough" in about six months time.
I was now into April. About a week later I got an advertising email from Emirates offering really cheap flights to Europe (including Madrid) during May with returns before August. I sat thinking about that email overnight, without much sleep. By the morning I had realised that I could stay on my current track of making sure that I was completely prepared before I committed to going by buying a plane ticket or, instead, I could buy a plane ticket now and use that as a stake in the ground to make sure that I was prepared enough by the time that I left. Before I could talk myself out of it, I went onto the Internet and bought a return ticket to Madrid, leaving on the 12th May and returning on the 28th July. This gave me five weeks to prepare.
Five weeks might have been enough but then at about 2:00 am one night I woke up with severe pain in my side that had me rolling around on the floor and then recognising that I had a Kidney Stone and I needed urgent medical treatment. The surgery and recovery took ten precious days out of my schedule and I was only given medical clearance to fly three days before I flew out.
The time between deciding and going was a blur. I was not then the Camino expert that I am now
and so I didn't find this forum until the week before I left and I had problems finding any real information about the Camino before I left. This meant that, on the 14th May I arrived in St. Jean to start my walk with a reservation for one night in St. Jean. I had been unable to get a booking in Orisson or Roncesvalles. I had a pilgrim passport, my backpack, my smartphone, about 150 Euros in cash and a credit card. I knew that I needed to walk across the Pyrenees to Pamplona via some place called Roncesvalles and then generally westward until I got to Santiago de Compostela. That was it! I had no map, no real detailed idea about how I would get to Santiago, no accommodation booked, no idea of where I would stay the next night, no emergency food, nothing else. However, I had read that the year before over 300,000 other people had walked to Santiago (I didn't realise that not all of them started in St. Jean) and so I figured that if all these other people could do it then so could I.
After checking into my gite in St. Jean and leaving my backpack I headed up to the Pilgrim centre in St. Jean, stood in the queue for 30 minutes outside and then "chatted" to one of the volunteer helpers who's stilted English was a thousand percent better than my ill-remembered high school French. Based on that chat I booked a pickup from the Snow Virgen the next day by Express Bourricot and went looking for somewhere to spend a second night in St. Jean. I couldn't find anything through booking.com, my gite or any other internet searches and so I tried AirBnB and scored a bed for the morrow. With that settled I headed off to bed.
Apart from those two nights at the start, I never again made a reservation for accommodation even into Santiago de Compostela (not recommended). I never missed out on getting a bed although I got the second to last bed in Zubiri and the last bed somewhere else (I forget where). Nor did I know ahead of time in which village/town or city I would spend the next night. Usually I didn't even know the name of the next town or village that I would walk through. I had no map of the Camino or even a guide of any sort. I threw away the list of albergues given to me in the Pilgrim Centre in St. Jean on about the third day because the font was too small for me to read.
The next day I slept in and so by the time I headed out of St. Jean most of the other hordes of people had left before me and I almost made a wrong turning leaving St. Jean but I figured it out and headed up the mountain. Across the entire 800klms I only ever needed to use Google Maps on my smartphone a couple of times to find a particular albergue in the larger towns and cities and I was only ever lost once (it was great and I found my own way back onto the Camino) and at only two other points was I a little bit unsure about which way to go and in both cases the people around me, locals and other pilgrims, soon put me right.
Spain is a modern, highly civilised country and there are lots of resources such as places to stay, places to eat and drink, public and private transport, medical facilities, shops and the
Camino Frances is incredibly well marked. Spaniards and other pilgrims are extremely hospitable and friendly. Even if someone that you meet can't speak the same language as you they will almost always be willing to communicate as best that they can.
Okay, so what you might be saying, what is that great opportunity that you talked about at the beginning? Well, after a few days (the day I left Pamplona from memory) I started to feel this incredible sense of freedom. My days were simple and uncomplicated. I had nothing to worry about planning or anything else. I got up, washed and dressed and started walking, usually well after everyone else had left and so for the start of the morning I had glorious solitude. I have a habit of walking without stopping and so by about 10 am I would start catching up with other pilgrims who had stopped for breakfast and/or a coffee and by about 1 pm I would be ahead of most of the others. At that point, when I passed through a village or town I would look for and find somewhere to stay, check in, shower, wash my clothes and then sleep until dinner time. Have dinner, explore a little and then head to bed for the night. The next day would be a repeat. Never did I have to be some place that someone else expected me to be. Life was simple and the simplicity and walking enabled me to clear my head and make decisions about the rest of my life.
Oh, and one more thing, that opportunity. The opportunity that you only get on your first Camino is to walk (metaphorically) into an almost complete unknown relying only on yourself to bring you to the other side. The self confidence that you gain when you do that has incomparable value along with the freedom that you will get from not being tied to anyone else's timetable or expectations.
Is it "better" to walk the Camino this way? Not necessarily, we each walk our own path in life and on the Camino and so what ever you choose will be right for you. You will not be a "truer" pilgrim if you walk it the way that I did. All pilgrimages done with a Pilgrim's intent are perfectly valid however they are done.
The only catch is, you only get one chance to do a First Camino because after doing one you will be an expert. After the first you will never again get quite that same opportunity to walk into the unknown with a huge goal and to show yourself that you can do that and come out the other side.
Buen Camino!