LIVE from the Camino Camino home to home, 2019, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024

[AlanSykes]

Alagón -- Rest day

I liked Alagón. In particular going up 5 flights of a beautiful 17th century columned staircase in the Casa de Cultura, a former Jesuit college. At the top is a ceiling fresco painted by local lad Goya when he was about 20 - allegedly his earliest surviving work. It's a slightly muddy Exultation of the Name of Jesus and you probably wouldn't give it a second glance if you didn't know who it was by.

Casa de Cultura

La Fundación tiene como principal finalidad el impulso de actividades de investigación, estudio y difusión sobre la obra y la figura de Francisco de Goya, así como la promoción de iniciativas para el incremento de las colecciones artísticas públicas relativas a Goya en la Comunidad Autónoma de...

fundaciongoyaenaragon.es

 

[SabsP]

I liked Alagón. In particular going up 5 flights of a beautiful 17th century columned staircase in the Casa de Cultura, a former Jesuit college. At the top is a ceiling fresco painted by local lad Goya when he was about 20 - allegedly his earliest surviving work. It's a slightly muddy Exultation of the Name of Jesus and you probably wouldn't give it a second glance if you didn't know who it was by.

Casa de Cultura

La Fundación tiene como principal finalidad el impulso de actividades de investigación, estudio y difusión sobre la obra y la figura de Francisco de Goya, así como la promoción de iniciativas para el incremento de las colecciones artísticas públicas relativas a Goya en la Comunidad Autónoma de...

fundaciongoyaenaragon.es

Yes indeed! I got a private tour from the very friendly lady of the tourism office. I like your description of this work...

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 86 -- Cabañas de Ebro

Still feeling sleepy, though I did advance a bit.

I'll advance a little further later.

Cloud cover is still up, no rain so far.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 87 -- Gallur

There's some administrative mic-mac at the Albergue, as they need a certificate issued by people do not work on Sundays. See if something can be worked out.

86 was a long day ; but between Alcalá and Luceni, is anyway very beautiful. Views of the river, the farmlands, copes of trees, and the everever-present storks gracing all with their presence.

Today from Luceni to Gallur was full tarmac. Had to walk it sin cerveza, so the pain was much worse than usual.

Luceni is pleasant enough, though it lacks an Albergue, and if you sleep outdoors, well, the place is infested with mosquitoes.

However, there are now other pilgrims, including José who has been a short-term compañero since Luceni, Antonio whom I mentioned the other day, and a group of three older men that I met just before Gallur.

If the Albergue situation here doesn't work out, might stay here tomorrow and get in tomorrow, the need for indoors is starting to be that urgent.

Josê strangely is considering the same thing. He's splitting off anyway at Gallur to the Castilla-Aragón way.

Hard keeping the devices charged ...

 

[C clearly]

There's some administrative mic-mac at the Albergue, as they need a certificate

What sort of certificate? Is it something pilgrims need, or the albergue?

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 88 -- Gallur

The certification thing at the Albergue is actually a lot more complicated.

The place is open, but they have not re-established their guest ID notification measures with the Guardia Civil post-reopening yet, so that you can eat or drink here, but not sleep.

I think that they actually were thinking about how to get 'round this for me, but there was a guy at the bar, we got talking, and he offered a place to sleep in the cabin of a lorry/truck ; then it turned out that my compañero José had made friends with others in that local group of friends that I had sort of got in with earlier in my own way, so that the already kind offer of a place to sleep became a cerveza party in a bar in town, a separate offer of a place to stay for José, and a grilled chorizo feast later. Very pleasant, and I slept most excellently. Cold shower, and it was fine, plus I was starting to really need it.

Problems keeping the devices charged continue though, particularly as one of them keeps on refusing to stay switched off when I need it to. Both batteries I have for it are near flat.

Another fairly short day today, and it seems more certain that the Albergue at Mallen is functional.

Said farewell and Buen Camino to José, as he has split off here onto the Castilla-Aragón Way. Good man.

Finances aren't as bad as I feared they'd be, given the extra travel costs at the start of the month, actually fairly similar to the usual for this time of the month. Which is great.

Going to have to get used to being on a more "normal" Camino route, one with more than just one peregrino, but at least it's more gradual in this sense than being totally alone, and then suddenly SJPP and hundreds of others.

 

[VNwalking]

Another fairly short day today, and it seems more certain that the Albergue at Mallen is functional.

The tortoise beats the hare.
One step at a time.
Buen camino, JP.
I hope you can slerp in the albergue tonight.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 88 -- and still in Gallur

Simply failed to move on. This happens to me in the second or third week of most of these long walks, so here we are.

The Albergue finally opened up, and there's a fantastic individual room. Great shower and bathroom, proper bed, sheets and a blanket -- so I'm actually relaxing for the first time in days. My compañero José is still here too LOL he's waiting for a cash transfer incoming tomorrow.

Gallur is fairly typical in most respects, though it's simultaneously hilltop and valley, but what really sets it apart is how nice and friendly both the individuals and the local community are here. The sheer comfort of the Albergue is itself a proof of this caring way.

It is lovely anyway to be alone in my own room for a bit.

 

[SabsP]

Glad to read Gallur is so welcoming for you!
I remember it also as a very friendly town.
Enjoy the rest!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 89 -- Mallén

Albergue status : CERRADO.

I asked about the sports complex with mattresses on the floor (sometimes these out of date web sites on this Camino way provide useful nuggets of info), but the more zealoted Ayuntamiento employee shut down that potential compromise solution with dexterous celerity.

Most of the walk itself from Gallur to Mallén is meanwhile gloriously beautiful. Spectacular views over a panoramic vista of the Ebro valley as it starts to widen in anticipation of reaching La Rioja. And the weather was fantastic 'til about midday ; warm but not overly so, the sunlight punctuated by irregular cloud cover, much as one finds in England, then just as a danger of real heat arises, it clouds over and remains cool.

I had slept, and moreso rested, very well, the single person room likely a perk of these first days of their reopening. But I did visit the dormitory, and it looks very good too ; all individual beds, not bunks. A wide open plan, but with enough room that it likely almost never fills up, excepting one supposes the odd large group or large Camino family.

Rain tonight ; think my long-sleeved t-shirt needs to come out for a spin too.

Can't really act surprised though at this situation, that I myself predicted in several posts in various threads concerning : if you do an early bird post-lockdown Camino, bring your sleeping bag and be prepared for the outdoors.

I'd guess things are a bit better on the Francès, but the Albergues here are reopening at glacial pace. One of the few things that the French have and the Spaniards lack, is their Système D. Though even there, it's being eroded by bureaucratisation and pen-pushing.

Starting to rain now.

I do sometimes miss the old days of hard classroom floors, dribbles of cold water laughably described as "showers", dirt-floor ex-pig sties shared by pauper and CEO alike.

One thing all of those places had in common : simple, and not outdoors.

But laws have been made now to protect the comfort of the pilgrims, regardless any detrimental effect upon it. Though I'm unsure how an inability to finance a hotel room might lead me to such comforts.

Ah well -- at least it's not sub-zero and wet leaves. Count one's blessings !! Le pèlerin remercie, le touriste exige ...

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 89 -- Mallén

Very unexpectedly, I am not outdoors.

No electricity, but running water & WC -- but as it is less than 50% kosher, no details, except that finding it was the result of :
1) unexpected help + 2) direct lie to my face A + 3) direct lie to my face B

Without these, I may well have been outdoors in the next pueblo instead.

People here anyway seem to be a little strange to me -- not lacking in the basics of good will and kindness, and they are thoughtful, but maybe their laconic ways remind me too much of my own.

But it is nevertheless odd that the two local supermarket rivals have been built the one directly opposite the other.

It is not the first time that I have stumbled into such fortuitous and serendipitous sleeping arrangements, but even in my own experience of Camino strangeness, this is a queer one.

Nevertheless, I will feel happier in here after full nightfall.

 

[VNwalking]

no details, except that finding it was the result of :
1) unexpected help + 2) direct lie to my face A + 3) direct lie to my face B

Ah...but we want the details, JP. The story is what makes the thread.

Glad you were inside for the night, and wish you buen camino for the morrow.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 90 -- Mallén

I am VERY glad I spent last night indoors, as there was a MASSIVE downpour in the middle of the night. Would have stayed dry even outdoors at this place, but it would have been a lot colder.

Slept well enough, and the WC came in handy too.

There's another string of small pueblos today, the larger one being next, Cortes, where I shall resupply, recharge, and whatnot.

Looks like being a cool rainy morning, then perhaps some Sun this afternoon.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Ah, looks like the shop here is opening ! Great.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 90 -- Cortes

I am in Navarra !!!

Not much else to say, recharging my phone and cerveza -- might check the vino tinto.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 91 -- Ribaforada

Did not make it here 'til this morning, slept a few K away under some cypress trees next to the old Buñuel railway station (which is further from that pueblo than it is from here).

I had not seen much of Cortes when I made that quick note yesterday (I am in Navarra !!!), but its historic centre is lovely. It was the site of a Castilian Court (hence the name of the pueblo, similar in England to how some places are called something Court, or Royal that).

Anyway, there is an impressive and architecturally beautiful, in its simple symmetry, fort, and a richly decorated 16th Century or so small palace and/or town hall and the Corte building itself.

Peaceful, simple, and yet refined in the highest aesthetic manner.

The walk on from there yesterday (and this morning) was one of those "boring" ones, long straight dirt track through fields and right next to the railway, but at least the weather was good hiking weather.

Still too slow though, and I was eventually halted by my pains, plus my unwillingness to keep on walking until 10PM.

The mulch under the cypresses and the black earth beneath it was anyway quite soft, so I slept perfectly well.

Freight trains blasted through sporadically overnight, but I have spent so much time on night trains in the past that it was actually somewhat soothing.

I had noticed otherwise, over recent days, that the contents of my backpack had been settling somewhat, and this morning I managed to fit the inflatable mattress inside it. Far better than having it strapped with elastic on top !! Also a good sign that finally I've learned to carry not too much "stuff".

‐---------------

Ribaforada is a less beautiful but much friendlier place, and they are justifiably proud of their excellent gastronomy.

I am recovering and recharging, again, in a bar here -- looked in a first one, and it seemed snobbish and uninviting. Then this one seemed at least normal, but it is in fact great.

I had a quick bocadillo, but that left me still hungry and still a bit tired ; meanwhile, I could see that people were coming in at all hours for a meal. hmmmmmm ...

So I asked for a steak and chips ; and either it's true they had none, or they would have none of such a boring order for me.

In any case, why not take this instead ?

"This" turned out to be slivers of ham ; a bottle of vino tinto ; roast mutton with chips and eggs.

Now, roast mutton is difficult to get right. This one wasn't wrong in any way whatsoever, but it was close to perfect.

Properly tenderised over several hours of slow roasting, strong basic flavour correctly balanced with garlic and a good enough mint sauce, it's a delight ; entirely impossible in France, as they insist on only eating lamb, and never mutton. Plus French sauce à la menthe is vile muck.

I think my mum's was marginally better ; she combined the Spanish recipe with bourgeois French roasting technique and the proper English recipe for the mint sauce. And, while we were still in Britain, the proper English mutton. Plus much MUCH more garlic.

Gosh knows if after this feast I'll be moving on anywhere else, seems doubtful right now ; though there's another pueblo, slightly hors piste, not that far -- we'll see.

Hotter weather now.

 

[JabbaPapa]

AND they gave me a fantastic pilgrim price for it all at the end of it. Regardless I'm drinking bottle of Tinto numero dos.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 91 -- Ribaforada

There is NO WAY that I will be moving on from here. I think I like this place in the same way that I like Belorado.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Mulch by the railway again, but pine rather than cypress.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 92 -- Fontellas

It's getting hot again.

Had an annoyingly late start this morning, after my belt broke and I needed to work out a repair job just with my Swiss Army knife and pilgrim kit, plus my backpack decided to spill its contents all over the place. Might have made it to Tudela otherwise.

But well, given the very lengthy stage out of Tudela, with no convenient hors piste pueblos for a safety net, it's probably better overall if I have a very short day into Tudela tomorrow morning.

The Camino by the canal today was the opposite of difficult, except for my own personal travails and the heat. There are however many resting spots, which is good for me, and even some in the shade !!

This leads to a Renaissance & riverside Royal garden, which was a great relief for me today, as a beauteous and cool spot for a siesta, 'til I and the weather cooled down sufficiently to make it to the pueblo.

There are 16th and 18th century buildings, a toy village, a maze, and mainly the glorious cool tree-lined shade and cool that has been drawn from the exceptional location between the river and the beginning of the canal.

The layout of the place is definitely Renaissance, though the gardens as they are now have been made more 18th Century Classical and to a degree contemporary modern, for the practical purposes of family and individual outings.

A welcome respite for me anyway from the stark and heated intention of the weather that afternoon.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 92 -- Fontellas

And now I am having another huge el cheapo Spanish meal, €6,50 this time.

And cervezas.

Still afloat with the finances.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 93 -- Tudela

A veeeeeeery slow and easy stroll in.

Lazy start with some tortilla de patatas, cerveza (of course), cafe con leche.

Then about 30% - 40% of the short road to town, 'til my knees needed a break ; which was right next to a supermarket, so of course more cerveza.

From there, well, it's just dead easy, but I took it slowly anyway. Apart from a short stretch by a dual carriageway, the rest of the road in is either the relatively quiet village tarmac out of Fontellas, much or which has a broad pedestrian sidewalk, or the dedicated cycle path and pedestrian dirt path right next to it after that rest point, all the way to town ; and multiple benches alongside. All in a wonderful shade from many trees.

With just one short extra stretch of walk or cycle way on that bare dual carriageway I mentioned, the passage through Fontellas would easily become the better option ; and it's most likely the historic one.

Not much more to mention of Tudela yet, only just got in, and I'm just at the outskirts.

 

[SabsP]

Ah Tudela is wonderful! Seeing you are here in a weekend it will be somewhat crowded I guess. It does attract some local tourists I noticed the two times I visited the town.

Bar Moncayo at Calle Merced serves some great pintxos!

 

[JabbaPapa]

I think I might stay an extra night, to a great extent because I simply lacked the energy to prepare what I need for the next stage, which will be a tough one for me from my physical difficulties. No huge problem, but I do need that prep.

Also, I really need to ensure that my clothes are both clean and dry, and I don't know yet if 2 of the t-shirts won't need an extra wash. Also indoors + bed + shower is very tempting compared to all that outdoors and the aromas that it can provide.

But really I just can't see myself setting off from here in the morning.

 

[SabsP]

I think I might stay an extra night, to a great extent because I simply lacked the energy to prepare what I need for the next stage, which will be a tough one for me from my physical difficulties. No huge problem, but I do need that prep.

Also, I really need to ensure that my clothes are both clean and dry, and I don't know yet if 2 of the t-shirts won't need an extra wash. Also indoors + bed + shower is very tempting compared to all that outdoors and the aromas that it can provide.

But really I just can't see myself setting off from here in the morning.

Staying in the albergue ( juvenil )?

 

[JabbaPapa]

Yes.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 94 -- Tudela

I think I had some inflammation and/or blood pressure worse than usual.

Regardless prep, I would anyway not have been able to move on this morning for anything other than a very short stage, which is not on the cards here -- just sitting about doing exactly nothing was the right choice.

Took 'til 3PM anyway for me to feel better enough to get out of the albergue a bit. Not to do very much at all, it's rather hot (34⁰C at 3PM), but I did discover a supermarket open on Sunday. Hooray !!

I can see why some like Tudela, but personally I just don't enjoy cities much in general. I'm happy to live not too far from them though, just not actually in them -- though for a very long time I did very much like Paris ...

Tudela does anyway have a more relaxed feel to it than most, partly I think from clever city planning.

The Albergue here is fine, though the bunk beds have some difficulty encasing my body length. And the four-bed dormitories are clearly designed for people much smaller generally.

There's a cool and covered porch area between the two wings though, where I can be mostly comfortable, as well as a proper kitchen for those who might seek such things. Good for those in groups.

The extra day's stay does put a bit of a dent in the current finances, but well, one does as needs must.

Some cloud cover does come and go, and supposedly it's not so hot tomorrow. We shall see ..

 

[SabsP]

Good luck for tomorrow! Guess it will be Castejon for you?

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 94 -- Tudela

I am feeling a LOT happier this evening. Clearly, my legs have lost some flab, and I haven't seen my ankles looking this good in a very long time ; though no doubt the pain after a few K won't be much different.

There's a cool dry wind blowing through Tudela, and temps have dropped precipitously from the mid to upper 30s of the afternoon.

A group of cyclists is staying here this evening ; they have motor vehicle support and clearly are not pilgrims, though they seem nice enough.

This not eating much at all on the Camino continues to feel rather strange, and so nothing at all today, except some biscuits with coffee in the morning. And I'm not hungry.

I've certainly been able to fast in this manner off the Camino, but last time I mixed hiking with fasting was in '93 to '94 and my prep for that long 1994 Way from Paris, except I'm not that young any more !!

It's strange.

Oh well -- fact remains that despite those sizing flaws, this is a rather beautiful albergue.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 95 -- Castejón

Found a lift for the last 2-3K, but that was still a 15K+ for me. And the first 10K went very well indeed ...

The parts of old Tudela I saw on my way out this morning really did confirm my impression yesterday -- someone there has done an amazing job with the city planning. The area closest to the old town is modern, but with little squares and covered walkways that mirror in function what one finds in the older part ; where conversely, it has been sensitively and non-destructively opened up somewhat to mirror the more open plan of the rest of the city ; and yet each keeps its own character.

Very clever indeed.

The walk out of Tudela is most pleasant ; and the weather today was much cooler, with a cool northerly wind to keep it that way.

I ended up on the tarmac option for the start of it, but that had a dirt walking path along the first few K plus a cycling path, and seemingly more shade than on the dirt track on the other side of the canal.

Then many K of small country tarmac road through spectacular and panoramic Ebro valley scenery.

I kept at it happily most of the way, including my break at about the halfway point.

But at the road bridge, 2/3rds of the way there or so, I basically forgot my 2nd dose of the anti-inflammatory plus the weather heated up and the kind of handy little spots for resting my legs vanished. Kept at it for a few K more, probably could have finished as there was cloud cover incoming, but well I got that lift.

It's a Fiesta day here in Castejón -- there was live music earlier, might be starting up again.

Yep !!

This is the last pueblo in Navarra.

 

[JabbaPapa]

My two albergue list sources suggest that the Albergue in Alfaro is either free or donativo, so might be a very short walk tomorrow.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 96 -- Castejón

Today feels like it might be a bit of a scorcher, so I'm happy for the shorter day's walk. Though there's still some wind.

Slept next to the railway again, but on grass this time rather than mulch. Waiting for the meds to properly kick in before start.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 96 -- Alfaro

I am in La Rioja !!

The walk was short and easy -- about a 5K or so.

Once you cross into La Rioja, a dedicated Camino path has been made, in this instance between the fields and the road.

One more sign that it's getting closer every day to the Francès ...

The Camino is also now more noticeably rising further above sea level ; and towards the beginning of the meseta.

I met another pilgrim, Jorge, who is walking the Zaragoza to Logroño section, at the entrance to Alfaro.

We made our way to the Albergue de Peregrinos, which is great, and the first proper donativo I've seen personally since Béziers. The guy made us do the backpacks in rubbish bags routine, which I believe to be useless overkill, but I guess it's from negative past experience with the bedbugs.

But I did have to explain to Jorge as it is his first Camino why you NEVER put your backpack on the bed. I also explained the basics of donativo.

It was nice anyway that because there are two of us we could prepare a proper meal. Or rather Jorge did, as my legs were acting up again. So washing up for me instead.

The Albergue is basically a little house. Kitchen downstairs, living area on the ground floor, bedrooms and bathroom upstairs. Nice hot water, sounds like a gas boiler. This is a very pleasant arrangement.

Not seen much of the town, maybe later.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 97 -- Rincón de Soto

I did see a bit of Alfaro. It gives me the impression of being a Hispanic version of a red brick industrial town. There's clearly a strong focus on work ethic, and the feel of the place speaks of industry and town employment rather than agricultural work.

Most of the buildings are red brick, including all the churches I saw, and even a few of the concrete block ones have their concrete tinted red.

Two more pilgrims today. The first was one of those arrogant French snobs sadly, a cyclist, and because he had a busted wheel spoke, he had not the time for even the most quick polite chat, despite the fact that he was obviously French and I tried engaging with him in his mother tongue !! So boring.

The other encounter was only slightly longer, but far more pleasant. A Spaniard, Jesús, one of those strong and wiry 60-somethings, doing a 50K+ day. I reminisced about my old fast pace, he was impressed by the length of my current Camino, we both agreed that daily speed really does not matter (which is of course a psychological luxury for those who have an experience of being very fast, either presently or previously) ; and I told him he was likely to bump into Jorge at Calahorra, and I'm happy those two are likely with each other right now. Two really nice peregrinos.

Today's walk was a workmanlike one, and a hot one after a certain point. Basically on the hard shoulder of the main road for 2-3K, then smaller tarmac road -- couple good places to rest in the shade ; then another one of those bare dirt tracks in fields or by the railway, virtually no spots of shade, and an increasingly aggressive Sun.

Slight sunburn, no probs.

Oh well, just 11K so got here, hot, bothered, and rather late. But I do have my necessary liquids to start in the morning. I have exceeded my limits on foodstuffs I should avoid, so tomorrow will be another low food day.

Money has become tight, grrrr, as expected the two days at Tudela have done their damage. Oh well, hanging in there 'til Tuesday ...

It *is* a 16K tomorrow, so I am really hoping I manage to get an actually early start for once !!

I'll see where I'll sleep. Towards the end of town anyway. Yes ; there's a railway ...

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 98 -- Calahorra

Well, someone was looking after me today ...

I slept at the edge of the pueblo, next to the canal instead of by the railway (but close enough to hear the trains). It was actually comfortable enough.

And I moved off earlier than I have been, except I quickly realised that my knee and ankle were in more pain than usual. grrrrrrrr ...

Some cerveza helped, and I limped on, slower than even my "normal". Thankfully, the day started out cloudy.

At my first break, I was surprised to see how far I'd come ; and began to suspect that it's not actually 16K. So on, and then about halfway (i.e. about 5-6K not 8), I entered a farm premise for the shade (the Sun had come out in the now clear skies) -- nobody answered my hails, so I sat in the shade.

A few minutes later, saw two men working in the field, waved, they waved back, we shouted some greetings.

I rested in the shade.

On their return from the cucumber-picking, they invited me into the barn for some food ; what I could eat from their offering was a tomato and three small prunes. And a tiny pastry.

They were North African fruit pickers ; Moroccans. We chatted 'til they got back to work, and it was certainly more pleasant to rest inside on an armchair than on concrete in a simple shade.

After a bit I left, getting hotter, rested here and there, got to maybe 2/3rds the way, then my Moroccan friends gave me a lift for the rest -- which ended up being needed, not for the heat and the walk, but to get into town early enough for the Albergue.

Money has become ridiculously tight, so I made my way with some apprehension to the Albergue ; and then the boss, with amazing kindness and generosity (and this is the private one, as the Municipal is being entirely renovated) offered the room for free.

And I sorely needed this, and was prepared to give half what I have left for it.

Thank the Saints and Angels !!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 99 -- Calahorra

I will most likely decide to go completely hors piste for a few days, and a San Adrián > Andossilla > Cárcar > Sartaguda > Lodosa > Alcanadre alternative, having more pueblos and fewer Ks between them.

In cooler weather I'd be happier with the "official" route, but pain from my disability has been making things difficult in the afternoons, with regard to the heat.

And there are several hotter days incoming.

The stage after Alcanadre is unavoidable, but I'll see about that when I get there.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 99 -- Calahorra

Yep, still here.

A kindly lady offered me 10€ with an injunction to rest and eat, and so that is exactly what I am doing.

This meal costs more than that, and my difficulties persist, but there's no point accepting help from strangers if you fail to understand the specifics of it.

I will try to get to San Adrián at least once the heat calms down.

If not, well, good places to sleep out exist here as well.

 

[JabbaPapa]

My ability to move forward may have been compromised by the menu del dia.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Yeah, sleeping out here somewhere obviously ...

I really wasn't planning a 0K day, but oh well !!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 100 !! -- Hooray !! -- San Adrián

I am in Navarra !!

Definitely made the right decision coming this way ; midday, and already it's nearly too hot to hike. Couldn't get as far as Cárcar today anyway, but tomorrow is feasible.

But instead of being stuck out in some fields, I'm here in the pueblo. Particularly good as I slept rather poorly last night.

The way out of Calahorra in this direction is through a partly residential, partly industrial, partly agricultural area, so that the long line of warehouses and factories is made more pleasant by bars, restaurants, shops.

This gives way (on tarmac) to fields, farms, and smaller agriculture -- then the main road, except one short side road, and then the walk over the older bridge, foot passage now and bikes only, into San Adrián itself. Probably a 4-5K into the centre of the place.

Not much to say really -- still at my snail's pace ; had my first figs of 2021 ; and that's the day's hiking done.

There seems to be a chance my next payment comes on Monday instead of Tuesday, which would be quite unusual, and I really hope so !!

Think I can manage to avoid the main roads tomorrow.

It does feel nice in a way to be back into my DIY Camino habits, without yellow arrows and so on ... but I am nevertheless looking very much forward to getting back into Logroño and back onto the Francès !!

 

[VNwalking]

Oh well, hanging in there 'til Tuesday ...

Well...may it be Monday!
We can't reach through our screens to offer you food, but we can say buen camino...
Glad you've found a work-around in the heat.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 100 -- San Adrián

We can't reach through our screens to offer you food, but we can say buen camino...

hmmm, well Somebody seems to have heard you.

I started asking for help, as I do in these circumstances of 2€ in my pocket ; and one of the locals saw me, offered a coffee, and then very kindly bought me half a roast chicken in that same bar.

It was *exactly* the kind of food I needed, simple meat and fat.

The Camino Provides ...

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 101 -- Cárcar

Slept in the park again.

Woke at 3, got up at something to 4, started walking at about 5.

Just took the main road to Andosilla, as it was 5AM on a Sunday morning. Pretty much zero traffic. The pueblo is pretty forgettable, seems mostly like a drive-through one, though I did not visit the old village centre.

Took tarmac most of the way from there too ; there was a parallel dirt track but I had no way of knowing it went to the right place. Followed the dirt anyway for the last bit.

Though it is a hilltop pueblo, so there was the climb up as well. It does mean that from here you can see further away than where the Camino Francès is, so I'm in visual range of it !! (though I haven't checked the best view yet)

Found some Spirulina cheap at a supermarket yesterday, and it does seem to help. Will look for more.

 

[JabbaPapa]

So sleepy !!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 101 -- Cárcas

The views from up here are spectacular !!

I couldn't quite see Logroño for the trees and the haze, but I certainly did see that very familiar mountain line north of the city and north of the Francès.

It's high enough here compared to the surrounding area that the local eagles were flying at my eye level, and at one point only a couple dozen yards away. They are truly impressive creatures in flight.

I had a brief chat with the priest here, and he put me straight about tomorrow's walk being to Lodosa. I had neglected it because it looked like main road, but there are in fact options. Mainly though, I had not realised how much shorter it is that way.

 

[JabbaPapa]

There are actually two options from Lodosa, though I will be taking the Logroño one.

But you could do :

Lodosa > Mendavia > Lazagurria > Sansol/Torres del Rio

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 102 -- Lodosa

Today was one of those non-cerveza hiking days, which are always more difficult from extra stress -- though the degree of pain as such was less than usual, so I might finally be getting my Camino legs.

But well, getting into a pueblo like Cárcar on the Sunday and leaving at 5AM means just water and the medications.

The walk otherwise was on close to my ideal gently sloping surface (though perfect is with trees), so that definitely helped too.

It was dirt track nearly all of the way there.

And it's certainly a joy now to be walking with that very familiar Francès mountain line on the horizon ...

A very HOT day, though I found a few rest spots in the shade -- but I ended up falling asleep in the last one close to Lodosa, which led to walking in at 4PM with 37⁰C !! Still, that hottest part of the walk was just the final 1.5K, and no real harm done.

Though gosh, I needed a LOT of water when I reached Lodosa !!

The owner of the first bar in town gave me a cerveza with the iced water I had asked for ; so if I can't make it out tomorrow before the heat, which is possible as I'll want to wait for the shops (money still not in), I'll make a point of eating at his place in thanks. And for the needs of my belly of course.

And now in this second place, where I am recharging my devices, a gentleman offered me a double tinto, and it's a surprisingly better than normal one. Might get another with my scraps of change. Cerveza here is way too expensive sadly. There's the supermercado for that anyway ...

Where they also sell foodstuffs !!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Maybe I can manage my lunch here, and Alcanadre later ? It's supposed to be a cooler day with rain. And the next place is very close indeed.

If that forecast is accurate (rain ones generally haven't been so far), then maybe.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Hooray !! Cash is in !! And not too late to make food & drink use of it before tomorrow morning !!

Cerveza !! Hooray !!

 

[JabbaPapa]

This does mean that I will be walking to Alcanadre in the morning and not waiting about here.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 103 -- Lodosa

About to head out after cafe con leche and tostada.

Very late start, but no problem as it is cool and cloudy, and the day's distance is short. Late also because it was after 8AM when I woke up.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 103 -- Alcanadre

I am in La Rioja !!

Well, this has been a strange one for me.

The walk was just about as easy as you can get, on nothing but tarmac.

Terrain flat, then up and over a ridge ; low traffic ; clouds, cool, and mild rain.

Then things became Camino-like.

I want into town looking for a menu del dia and found one ; then after inquiring about the Albergue Municipal (it's closed for renovations), I called the Casa Rural, then the wife in the bar just talked to me as it's her place. Had not started lunch yet, and all was arranged.

Far beyond my normal price range, but after four consecutive nights outdoors, well the average night's price is not excessive.

Then sit down for the lunch (very nice indeed, if not quite as copious as a proper menu del peregrino), and four very young bicycle Ignaciano pilgrims set themselves down at the next table.

Buen Caminos galore.

We talked little (they are in their own group thing), but they did show interest in the tips I had about Albergues down the road towards Manresa, some of which just confirmed their own notions, nice when peregrinos agree, but a couple were new to them and clearly appreciated.

Lunch ; chat ; cerveza ; etc.

As to the lodging, well, this is the very first time on these Pilgrim Ways in 28 years that I am staying in a Gîte. And every possible reason requires it.

Four nights outdoors, NOT a fifth ; washing machine vs. increasingly stinky kit ; shower, ditto body ; extremely nice people, honest and direct the way I like best ; and there's something about this pueblo that I find easy and simple.

And then there's the fifth Ignaciano peregrina, foot pilgrim, was really NOT expecting to meet any this year.

There's also the incidental coincidence that had I not made my detour through those Navarra pueblos, I simply could not have afforded to eat and sleep here, which I most certainly need.

So I am very much outside of my norms ; but directly central inside my needs.

Most odd, but most pleasantly.

 

[SabsP]

Happy to read you are in such a nice place. And other pilgrims! Yeah.

Only now I see that aside from la Casa Azul there is also the casa rural " la Antigua Bodega ". I did not notice that a week ago when looking up possible places to stay when @Bad Pilgrim was walking.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 104 -- Arrúbal

Thankfully the weather was normal and not scorchio.

Woke up at about 8AM, seems I really did need that sleep. Packed up, went for breakfast, said Buen Camino and goodbye to the Ignaciano peregrina. With a hug.

Most of the day's walk was between the railway and the river, and pleasant enough overall. Did start to heat up a little bit when the tree cover stopped for a while, but then the sky clouded over and it all worked out, except for my own slowness.

Good news is my legs are definitely getting stronger, and so less susceptible to pain. Need fewer doses of the anti-inflammatory anyway, and less of the cerveza.

The mountains are closer and closer. And walking into the pueblo felt very much like walking into one on the Francès.

The Alcaldesa here keeps the keys to the Albergue, and she is a lovely, very nice, friendly, and warm-eyed and clearly warm-hearted lady.

I was most pleased when she spontaneously offered my own opinion to me -- that until Logroño, it's all the Camì Catalan. Except I guess all those doing the Camino Ignaciano, or the Camino del Ebro proper from the sea.

The Albergue itself seems fairly new, still smells of plastic, and it has all you'd need -- kitchen, great bathroom and shower facilities, washing machine, good solid & comfortable bunk beds.

And €5 -- finally a more normal price.

I'll get into Logroño I suppose either tomorrow or on Friday morning. Not sure.

Today was a 15-16K one and all the way tomorrow would be about a 20, so I'll see how I get along. Feasible, but not sure how much I'll want to push it. Have to see how the weather is too. Won't skip this "boring" bit by bus though.

Had a bunch of indigestion today, and finally worked out why -- it was the spirulina, my stomach is outright rejecting it. Very annoying for the loss of the potential benefits, but it's smack bang in the heart of the category of foodstuffs I should avoid, which my gut has just reminded me of.

Overall though, the day's hike went well enough, and it's so cool to be at the end of this long Catalan stretch from Béziers.

I am also more and more curious as to conditions and pilgrim numbers on the Francès.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 105 -- Arrúbal

Well, won't be Logroño today I think ; slept poorly, and my back is acting up.

Could always be wrong of course, but I am presently anticipating that I'll at least have a long-ish stopover at Agoncillo.

 

[VNwalking]

Good morning JP.
Yeah, who knows?
You have all day, and summer days are long.
May it be comfortable walking!

Edit. Not so many options. In Agoncillo there is this:

Villa Merenciana – Una villa de 1916 en Agoncillo (La Rioja), un alojamiento con encanto.

(Looks upmarket, FWIW)
Other than that my OSMand map shows a place to stay in Recajo (Tres Marquesas) but...ummmm...it turns out to be a club, of the unsavory sort from the look of the website.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Still in Arrúbal, and I'm needing significantly more pre-departure cerveza than usual just to move past the pain, so that all that I posted yesterday on this topic has turned out to be nonsense.

As to sleeping arrangements, well, after two consecutive nights of good ones, an outdoors is no problem. The very nice Alcadesa here has this morning said no problem if I need a second night here, but really I will just move on. Though it really is quite rare for me to need two full 1 litre bottles of San Miguel plus the meds plus an hour or two just to get out of the Albergue before being capable of even a short morning mini-start.

Some of it is clearly from too much bread.

This is anyway in any and every case a very good pueblo.

 

[JabbaPapa]

To paraphrase Sherlock Holmes, leaving Arrúbal is turning out to be a three litre problem.

And if it had been a 37⁰ or 39⁰ C day, it would have been unfeasible.

But the basic pain is finally receding, and I'm getting closer to making at least some advance along the Way.

Far prefer dealing with this head on anyway, than eating any opioids.

 

[VNwalking]

it really is quite rare for me to need two full 1 litre bottles of San Miguel plus the meds plus an hour or two just to get out of the Albergue before being capable of even a short morning mini-start.

leaving Arrúbal is turning out to be a three litre problem.

Gosh, JP, I hope you're OK.
Sounds like more than a little pain.
Fortunately the next pueblo is not too far away and it's only in the lower 20s.
May you have all strength for the way.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 105 -- Agoncillo

I'm fine, and just getting a late menu del dia. She's making an exception to serve it, though OTOH price is correspondingly bloated.

Don't care.

It really did take me an unusually long time to get past this morning's pain, but bottom line :

I am now closer than I was to Fátima and Compostela.

Hooray !!

 

[JabbaPapa]

The Camino itself is beautiful here.

Little tarmac road certainly, but with a gentle rurality that is most pleasing in every way, except perhaps to the more dedicated mountain hikers.

These last few Ks are as the Francès except alone. I'll walk on.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 105 -- Agoncillo

Just slept for apparently four hours in this bar, though IMO it might be five.

Last thing I can remember thinking before falling asleep here is that most likely I would get no further.

I guess that the lunch was better for me than I thought.

Pain is gone anyway, and I suppose that I've got over whatever it was that prevented me sleeping normally last night.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day106 -- Logroño

I am on the Camino Francès !!

A somewhat tiring and annoying day ; though I think I'm glad I slept at Agoncillo rather than at petrol station place Recajo.

The Camino itself slithered its way between motorway, main road, river, and railway. I had an unfortunate accident near the start, skipping as I crossed a small river, and the hand-held device I've been using as a mini-tablet got soaked and now won't switch on. (this phone I'm using was in the other pocket and stayed dry)

The weather was OK, though it got hot near the end. Met two bicycle pilgrims, so all in all I met about 15 or so peregrinos on the Catalan/Ebro this year, similar to how many I met between Igualada and Lleida in 2019.

Here of course it's pilgrims galore.

Weird not to be alone in the Albergue !!

Took me an hour this evening to find a normal bar with normal stuff & prices, most of central Logroño being just a tourist trap. That effort did anyway lead to munchies and a couple of cervezas for under 7€.

Staying at the Municipal instead of the Parrochial - certainly not ideal, but the backpack was getting heavy.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 107 -- Grajera park

Well, I certainly didn't get far today !!

Like a silly billy I got up at the same 6AM or whatever as everyone else, instead of resting a couple of hours more. Out of practice I suppose.

Which led to me wasting 2 hours just waiting for the wine shop to open where I always purchase some tinto when I am in Logroño.

The walk here was fine, and it's always interesting to see how things have changed since 1993.

The little saplings have grown into great shade giving trees ; and I see now that little saplings have been planted along the parallel cycling path.

A combination nevertheless of my usual fatigue, plus cervezas, heat, and a certain amount of the tinto in question lead me to be sleeping here and not, for example, in Navarrete.

Oh well, it'll be comfortable enough ...

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 108 -- Navarrete

Well, the Francès has clearly become even more touristified at this end of it since last I was here. And the 50% capacity rule in the Albergues doesn't much help either.

The Municipal here is closed, and as to the 10€ beds at the private one they're "full", so I'm in the double room for 5€ extra. It's most annoying.

And prices generally seem to have jumped upwards. Meanwhile, a pilgrim menu can start with a mixed salad, which is weird compared to the stodge it's supposed to provide.

I counted about 40 pilgrims on the trail today, 2/3rds foot 1/3rd bike or thereabouts, though it is a weekend day, so that I'm unsure how many of those will have started at Logroño.

I did meet two French pilgrims yesterday ; she had started at Le Puy, he in the Vosges. So there are still some, though that just makes the generalities harder to see. Except that people are more interested in their smartphones than they were 7 years ago.

Of course it's somewhat annoying to no longer be "the" pilgrim when I walk into town ; but eh, I'll get that back further down the Way.

As to the number of pilgrims, it feels similar to the holy year 1993. Except we're not sleeping in converted pig sties, sports halls, school classrooms, or large tents.

Though given the extra costs attached to all of these improvements to make pilgrims more comfortable, no doubt I'll be sleeping outdoors a lot more than in the 1990s ...

 

[Kathor1]

As to the number of pilgrims, it feels similar to the holy year 1993

You are one of the few forum members who can make this comparison. Most of us here don't even know what the last Holy Year 2010 was like, let alone 1993. And especially not in the summer months of July and August!

Buen camino!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 110 -- Ventosa

Yesterday was cloudy and cool ; I even felt cold at one point.

Not sure why, but I'm slower again. I was anyway in two minds as to whether I'd come here to Ventosa or go all the way to Nájera, but after turning off towards this place, ankle pain started up again and it became clear, including from some more tiredness building up, it was the right choice.

The Camino isn't difficult here, rolling hills and vineyards, except psychologically a flat dust track next to the motorway. Which is not that lengthy really, but I can remember it being annoying in hot weather.

Not much else ; ate some pilgrim menu stodge, then chose to stay at the Albergue here from rain concerns. It's one of the more comfortable ones, plus I got a five bed dormitory to myself, with the bed not one of the bunks. And I think everyone else staying was a peregrina.

To Nájera today, then.

 

[VNwalking]

it was the right choice.

The camino is never a race; listening to one's body is much more important than how far one walks in a day. The older we get the more humbling it is.
Buen camino peregrino. Poco a poco....

 

[Kathor1]

To Nájera today, then.

I saw a videoclip today on FB of a couple of pilgrims who are carrying a statue of Notre Dame de Fatima from Fatima to Russia apparently. The video is from a vineyard near Villafranca de Bierzo but I think they are already past Leon, perhaps in Castrojeriz today. You may meet them on your way. I thought you might be interested to know as Fatima is one of your destinations. The group of pilgrims who participate changes over time. Buen Camino!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 110 -- Nájera

These "improvements" to the "comfort" of pilgrims are getting ridiculous.

The walking itself is amazing, early meseta through rolling vineyards, and today the weather was fantastic.

I met many French peregrinos at breakfast, 2 started at SJPP, 1 from Le Puy, 1 delightfully from Paris (there's few of us Paris road pilgrims about).

And I met all sorts along the way, a basque troubadour, an older 12 timer, two concerned Americans.

But this business of the Municipal Albergues being closed nearly everywhere whilst the local private ones massively up their prices is getting old.

I have no idea what those who come up with these schemes expect for themselves, but I somehow doubt that my night here under the bridge will be of much profit for them.

It's almost as if these people have not the slightest idea of what it is to be a pilgrim.

 

[SabsP]

Hope you slept well in Ventosa? I did like that albergue in 2011. The simple garden and the small shop at reception.
Good to hear about the French pilgrims. Must have been nice to be able to speak some French again.
Indeed, ideal walking weather!
So tomorrow Azofra or Cirueña? I see ( Gronze ) that the muni in Azofra is still closed.

 

[VNwalking]

Ultreia, peregrino! May that body hold up.
Hoping you can continue to enjoy the walking, and ignore the annoyances the mind throws out to distract from deeper things.
Eso es.

I stayed in Cirueña at the Albergue Virgen de Guadelupe after a bad fall out of Logroño, when I had to walk short days. The place was interesting - run by a guy who'd been a professor. Life had not been kind to him: the albergue opened not long before the ghastly golf course development got built basically in his back yard. He said it was a disaster. Life has not been kind this last year for many who have private albergues and are now trying to get back on their feet, either.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 111 -- still in Nájera

... including because a contribution I wanted to make to the lockdown thread was a bit complicated.

I was too tired last night to mention the Galician troubadour who was busking on the top of the ridge between Ventosa and here. He was playing the traditional Galician accordion, gracefully and beautifully.

I seem to be drinking a lot more than usual in this place. Perhaps why I ended up sleeping 12 hours.

It's a good cool walking day though, so I will move on, but here I am meanwhile getting a menú del dia.

 

[CalgaryLynn]

Day 111 -- still in Nájera

... including because a contribution I wanted to make to the lockdown thread was a bit complicated.

I was too tired last night to mention the Galician troubadour who was busking on the top of the ridge between Ventosa and here. He was playing the traditional Galician accordion, gracefully and beautifully.

I seem to be drinking a lot more than usual in this place. Perhaps why I ended up sleeping 12 hours.

It's a good cool walking day though, so I will move on, but here I am meanwhile getting a menú del dia.

That would have been beautiful to listen to. Lucky you!

 

[VNwalking]

Sill there, @JabbaPapa ?
Hope all is well.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Sill there, @JabbaPapa ?
Hope all is well.

Internet issues, which may take some time to resolve.

Day 113 -- Cirueña

I ended up staying another night at Nájera, after an intuition that I should sleep at the last Albergue at the end of town (so I guess that was a 1K day).

10 minutes after I got in, three other peregrinos arrived in a group, including one who wanted and probably needed some talk, 'til after 2AM, on religious and spiritual topics. Oh well, if we can't provide when required, there's no point being pilgrims ...

But that did mean I had insufficient sleep that night, which consequently limited me to Azofra on day 112, hence to Cirueña today.

The pilgrims here generally are at last getting to the point of their respective advancements where they're no longer just rushing, but starting to take a bit more time.

I had a chat with one doing Santiago to Paris in reverse ; with two other long-distancers, one from Le Puy, the other the Mont Saint-Michel (including me, between us that was basically the whole of France) ; a younger group two Belgian girls, a Polish boy ( think), and a French one from and walking from Orléans (we reminisced about the craziness of the Way through the Landes) ; an English pilgrim, first I've met on this Camino ; some Americans.

Took another few of *that* photo looking back along the Camino from the top of that ridge before Cirueña.

People were nice and welcoming at Cirueña, as I was clearly too hot and tired to continue, and was down to €1 in my pocket. The lady at the bar let me have a beer at that price, then kindly offered a plate of chorizo and tortilla de patatas. The Albergue here takes credit card, and the nice owners have let me take some cash on it.

Crashed straight to bed after the shower, and this place is most comfortable, and this is a midnight update after that first sleep.

As for tomorrow, not sure ; to Santo Domingo is short, but extra difficulty from lack of cerveza may arise ; else, I would attempt Grañon.

After a few cooler days it's getting hotter again ; but not nearly as bad as in French and Spanish Catalonia, Aragón, and Navarra. This high meseta altitude does help.

 

[Albertagirl]

this business of the Municipal Albergues being closed nearly everywhere

@JabbaPapa
Your mention of the municipal albergues being closed, apparently associated with sleeping under a bridge at Najera, made me wonder if the municipal there, the big albergue by the river, a donativo, is currently closed. I am scheduled to serve as a hospitalera there in the fall, so I am wondering about its current state.

 

[JabbaPapa]

@JabbaPapa
Your mention of the municipal albergues being closed, apparently associated with sleeping under a bridge at Najera, made me wonder if the municipal there, the big albergue by the river, a donativo, is currently closed. I am scheduled to serve as a hospitalera there in the fall, so I am wondering about its current state.

It's closed.

 

[VNwalking]

The Albergue

Which one - Virgen de Guadelupe?
Ahhh, Grañon. Such a quiet lovely place, with caritas.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Casa Victoria.

Day 114 at Santo Domingo de la Calzada is too annoying to write of, the creeping touristification reminds me in too many bad ways of home. And I mean the town, not the Camino stuff.

Still, knowing exactly how these tourist traps function did give me the ability to locate a normal bar way outside town centre, where they speak to me and give me normal information normally. Only negative, their munchies aren't compatible with my current bio.

Wishing I could get my hands on some French pâté ... Sadly, it's all 15€ tourist menus ...

Briefly met a pleasant French family of five who began their Camino at Auch.

As far as the Pilgrims themselves are concerned, it's so much like 1993, it's uncanny. Also, very cool ...

 

[VNwalking]

As far as the Pilgrims themselves are concerned, it's so much like 1993, it's uncanny. Also, very cool

Lovely. Do you mean in terms of #s, or attitude, or both?

Wishing I could get my hands on some French pâté

A tienda? They might not have pâté, but they would at least have chorizo.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 116 -- Redecilla del Camino

I am in Castilla !!

Slept at Grañón as expected, Casa del Sonriso, after a short hike but difficult from the late start and the heat. Met many French and French-speaking pilgrims on the way, including some sleeping in the same place.

Staying there was an odd experience for both good and ill.

Events prevented me showering or washing any clothes, and the vegan community meal ended up being miserable as they put me in the only place without anyone I knew, veggie food which makes me ill with too much of it so I ate next to nothing, next to some water-drinking teetotallers talking with anyone except me.

OTOH, beds there are most comfortable.

And especially, a group of very nice French Catholic pilgrims carrying a statue of Our Lady from Fátima to Lourdes were staying there, and they had organised an outdoor Traditional Latin Mass which was wonderful. Good conversation with one of them in particular. And good talk on the way too with a French solo long-distancer peregrina having started at Le Puy, and as much packed like a mule as I am ...

Not sure yet about today, though likely the second next pueblo, as the Municipal here is closed, where frankly I'd stay otherwise.

I think I'm just going to have to accept that days will be slow for as long as this heat keeps up, seriously impedimenting my normal regimen of hike in the morning ; then some more in the afternoon.

Still, should start lifting a bit after 15th August, I hope, though the more annoying thing these days generally has been patchy cerveza supply, which directly worsens the level of pain, and so indirectly my hiking capability and the daily K.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Getting a large steak here, with bacon and eggs. A bit more costly than the usual Camino fare, but very much needed.

That should help overcome last night's vegan disaster.

If after that it's too hot to do even the 2K distances between these pueblos here, then <shrug> ...

 

[JabbaPapa]

Getting a large steak here

It was a huge piece of what the Americans call (I believe) ribeye.

Gorgeous, and whilst French steak is great, that particular kind of cut is really hard to find there.

It's somewhat of a paradox, because even though the best French steak is better than the best Spanish, best Spanish is also better than best French.

 

[Albertagirl]

Getting a large steak here, with bacon and eggs. A bit more costly than the usual Camino fare, but very much needed.

Congratulations on getting adequately fed after your unfortunate experience with vegan. As a vegetarian, I have experienced quite a number of such vegan meals. Appropriate and adequate nutrition can really help pilgrims continue their camino.

 

[VNwalking]

I am sorry you had a difficult evening, @JabbaPapa. Spain is harder for vegetarians than for carnivores, and so now you know how many others feel, more nights than not.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 116 -- Redecilla del Camino

This is basically turning into an amazing rest day, between a lovely bar, a beautiful little albergue, and an exceptional hospitalero (also the original founder of Casa del Sonriso in Grañón).

This is more up to my speed, though the Latin Mass yesterday evening was also needed.

I can almost feel the stress falling away. Alone at the moment which helps, though perfectly OK if that changes later.

Perfect.

There's even beer ...

 

[JabbaPapa]

Spain is harder for vegetarians than for carnivores

Meat & Veg isn't the same as carnivore, and I'm finding it generally much harder than in France.

I am basically forced to eat veg every day, which I would do about once/week normally. (which increases my inflammation, and so my pain)

So no -- in terms of the difficulty of eating according to one's diet, carnivore is harder than vegan, itself harder than vegetarian, and all are harder than the basic meat & veg.

 

[VNwalking]

am basically forced to eat veg every day

Is someone force-feeding you, @JabbaPapa?


Carnivores have way more options than vegetarians in Spain. Most items on menus are meat based, and there's always the option to not eat the veg.

 

[JabbaPapa]

there's always the option to not eat the veg.

I guess that's the sound of the irony going full circle ...

So, what will that be ? Bocadillo de chorizo, or tortilla de patatas ? Espaghettis Bologneses si quieres ?

That's "carnivore" in the same way that a tuna salad is "vegetarian".

 

[Former member 49149]

I guess that's the sound of the irony going full circle ...

So, what will that be ? Bocadillo de chorizo, or tortilla de patatas ? Espaghettis Bologneses si quieres ?

That's "carnivore" in the same way that a tuna salad is "vegetarian".

I do not understand your language. Irony. What is irony?

 

[VNwalking]

So, what will that be ? Bocadillo de chorizo, or tortilla de patatas ? Espaghettis Bologneses si quieres ?

Haha. You're ordering the wrong things.
Is it language?
Lomo. Pollo. Bistec.

 

[nycwalking]

It was a huge piece of what the Americans call (I believe) ribeye.

Gorgeous, and whilst French steak is great, that particular kind of cut is really hard to find there.

It's somewhat of a paradox, because even though the best French steak is better than the best Spanish, best Spanish is also better than best French.

Gosh!

Ribeye steak, my favorite, and the camino, what a blessed man you are.

Loving your posts.

Buen camino.

 

[Albertagirl]

I think that my above post about being a vegetarian on camino was unclear. In general, I only eat vegan if there is no other choice. I rely on dairy, eggs, etc. to fill my tummy and give me energy for my walk. But there is currently an assumption that every vegan meal is suitable for vegetarians. Air Canada offers a wide variety of vegetarian options, but provides only a tasteless and non-filling vegan meal, no matter what I order. They don't even give me a piece of cheese with my meal, when I see it on all the other trays. This is one of the challenges of travel. Cooks will provide what they think is appropriate, and seldom seem to ask.

 

[SabsP]

Day 116 -- Redecilla del Camino

This is basically turning into an amazing rest day, between a lovely bar, a beautiful little albergue, and an exceptional hospitalero (also the original founder of Casa del Sonriso in Grañón).

Oh did Ernesto leave la Casa de las Sonrisas? I do see his name still on Gronze.

Albergue La Casa de las Sonrisas | Albergue de Peregrinos en Grañón | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue La Casa de las Sonrisas, en Grañón: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

If you are not in the muni then you wil be in this one?

Albergue Essentia | Albergue de Peregrinos en Redecilla del Camino | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue Essentia, en Redecilla del Camino: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

I did not know that this hospi was once the original founder of La Casa de las Sonrisas.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Haha. You're ordering the wrong things.
Is it language?
Lomo. Pollo. Bistec.

No offense taken and none intended, but you missed a point, and otherwise, how can you order what is not on offer ?

But that's not how the carnivore diet works, as it is more fat-based than meat-based per se, even though the meat is the heart it for the nutrients. But it can and often does include cheeses, and other dairy like yoghurt, milk. Eggs. Charcuteries, and of course fish and poultry.

And most who are on that type of diet supplement it with a varying amount and type of vegetable foods, certain fruits usually, berries, and so on ; but those who are on this type of diet for health requirements rather than for faddish "reasons" will often have dietary restrictions beyond this basis, but even so, just having meat alone with none of the other things isn't it, despite some extremely rare individual exceptions of people who must do exactly that.

But in general, "don't eat the veg" makes about as much sense to a carnivore as "just set the tuna aside" would make to a vegan given tuna salad as the "vegetarian option".

There are cases when someone will be happy to tailor a plato combinado exactly to your needs, which is how today's lunch was so great. It's how the roast mutton one some weeks ago also came into existence.

But generally speaking, that's the exception not the rule ; anyway, the major source of difficulty in Spain compared to France is, the French are the undisputed masters of fatty foodstuffs, cheeses, pâtés, availability of French, Italian, even some Spanish ham, and etc. So you can get by even from supermarket stuff, which is more complicated in Spain.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Day 117 -- Viloria de Rioja

My breakfast chat with José Manuel at Redicilla ended up lasting 'til midday, so no I didn't make it to Belorado this morning.

The short sections between the pueblos had no difficulty as such except the heat, but that was enough to prevent going on to at least pueblo number three.

I stepped in anyway to the Albergue Parada Viloria to cool off, expecting to sleep out later from having no cash on me again, but the owner & hospitalera, very nice lady, and I worked out a way for me to pay later via the post office, so here I am with a bed, and supper later.

Sleeping out at the church would have been fine anyway, as it has an excellent covered porch with a water fount right next to it.

The morning chat is way too complex to speak of here, though it defined the character of my day, except to say that it ended up centred around psychology and the intellect.

It ended upon interruption by two pilgrims arriving for tonight, then after some chat with them, onwards to this day's 5K ... (the young woman is I think the first Japanese peregrina I've met so far)

Would be nice if cooler weather allowed me to get back into a more typical hiking rhythm, though this does give me more opportunities to talk with the others.

 

[JabbaPapa]

2 peregrinas here, a younger woman and an older one, both Spanish both very nice indeed, plus the hospitalera who is brilliant -- she made a great chicken paella, which is OK for me even with the dietary restrictions as rice is the least bad cereal for a carnivore (though would be bad more than once in any week).

The hospitalera, Maria-Jé, is wise enough to have left us to our own devices during the meal, and to our pilgrim conversations.

This is a wonderful Albergue.

 

[sunwanderer]

how can you order what is not on offer ?

As a vegetarian, very frequently I order what is not on offer. More often than not the kitchen is happy to satisfy my request, or something close to it.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Sure, and as you can see from two examples I've given, I will too.

But there are occasions where that's not possible.