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LIVE from the Camino Camino home to home, 2019, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024
- Thread starter JabbaPapa
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JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
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Day 47 -- morning
One learns to appreciate the value of a warm bed on these less traveled Camino paths ...
I'm in Perpignan at last, and have slept at the Pilgrim refuge here, first one since Béziers, and the last of all in France. From advice given by the Hospitaleros, I'm switching my route to go through the Perthus pass to Figueras etc, so I'll be in Spain on Monday at latest. I'll work out at Figueras which route to follow from there.
I did eventually come across waymarkers on this French Catalan route (and even yellow arrows painted on rocks Yay !!), but that's pretty much the entirety of the support infrastructure here, apart from the association premises & refugio of Perpignan.
Probably only about 15 to 20 pilgrims walk this route yearly, and if you can't afford holiday lodging prices, most of your sleeping will be outside. Which can get boring.
The route itself is beautiful, and most of the locals are friendly enough, though it's also fairly overrun with tourists -- probably best also to avoid July and August, as even at the end of April the Sun can beat down on you quite scorchingly.
So it's hard to imagine a more back to basics Camino route than this one !!
BTW most of the scant information about this Way that you can find on these interwebs is about 5 years out of date, but the lack of info is simply a consequence of the lack of material support resources.
In a way, it's worse than the big nothing that I encountered on my Paris Way in '94, because the little that does exist can be a bit frustrating when it's lacking.
---
The thigh has been hurting a bit when it's under stress, which was starting to worry me a bit, but it continues to hold up.
Looking forward to my first menu del dia next week !!!
One learns to appreciate the value of a warm bed on these less traveled Camino paths ...
I'm in Perpignan at last, and have slept at the Pilgrim refuge here, first one since Béziers, and the last of all in France. From advice given by the Hospitaleros, I'm switching my route to go through the Perthus pass to Figueras etc, so I'll be in Spain on Monday at latest. I'll work out at Figueras which route to follow from there.
I did eventually come across waymarkers on this French Catalan route (and even yellow arrows painted on rocks Yay !!), but that's pretty much the entirety of the support infrastructure here, apart from the association premises & refugio of Perpignan.
Probably only about 15 to 20 pilgrims walk this route yearly, and if you can't afford holiday lodging prices, most of your sleeping will be outside. Which can get boring.
The route itself is beautiful, and most of the locals are friendly enough, though it's also fairly overrun with tourists -- probably best also to avoid July and August, as even at the end of April the Sun can beat down on you quite scorchingly.
So it's hard to imagine a more back to basics Camino route than this one !!
BTW most of the scant information about this Way that you can find on these interwebs is about 5 years out of date, but the lack of info is simply a consequence of the lack of material support resources.
In a way, it's worse than the big nothing that I encountered on my Paris Way in '94, because the little that does exist can be a bit frustrating when it's lacking.
---
The thigh has been hurting a bit when it's under stress, which was starting to worry me a bit, but it continues to hold up.
Looking forward to my first menu del dia next week !!!
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
2nd ed.
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Is the pilgrim refuge run by city or church or is it private?
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.
€46,-
€46,-
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
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Day 48
The first Spanish refugio is EPIC
I'm sleeping in the castle of the pueblo, but as in the 90s, no electricity nor running water
The view is stunning, but twilight and the ghastly wind don't help for its enjoyment
The Perthus is very very easy to cross
The first Spanish refugio is EPIC
I'm sleeping in the castle of the pueblo, but as in the 90s, no electricity nor running water
The view is stunning, but twilight and the ghastly wind don't help for its enjoyment
The Perthus is very very easy to cross
JabbaPapa
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Day 49
At Figueres, and so I've reached the Cami Catalan proper
Long walk on the main road tarmac, but otherwise I'd never have made it here
I do seem to be walking a bit faster, though not further -- but today was close to a 20K
Crikey I hope the tourist office will have some info on this Camino plus where the refugios are & etc, the overall absence of support structures on the Ways in the South of France, Arles to Montpellier excepted, is something I've had enough of ; if I ever do another Camino after this one, Lourdes to SJPP will be the most I'll do in that country
At Figueres, and so I've reached the Cami Catalan proper
Long walk on the main road tarmac, but otherwise I'd never have made it here
I do seem to be walking a bit faster, though not further -- but today was close to a 20K
Crikey I hope the tourist office will have some info on this Camino plus where the refugios are & etc, the overall absence of support structures on the Ways in the South of France, Arles to Montpellier excepted, is something I've had enough of ; if I ever do another Camino after this one, Lourdes to SJPP will be the most I'll do in that country
A selection of Camino Jewellery
JabbaPapa
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Day 50 morning
The internet suggests that there's not much on this part of the route either, not until Montserrat, and it takes a crazy way 'round and up into mountains to get you there.
I will probably take the easier (and apparently non waymarked -- sigh) path towards Sabadell, and that oddly enough at the personal level will take me through Sant Cugat where I used to go to school, which would therefore induce me into a slight detour via Valldoreix where we used to live.
The internet suggests that there's not much on this part of the route either, not until Montserrat, and it takes a crazy way 'round and up into mountains to get you there.
I will probably take the easier (and apparently non waymarked -- sigh) path towards Sabadell, and that oddly enough at the personal level will take me through Sant Cugat where I used to go to school, which would therefore induce me into a slight detour via Valldoreix where we used to live.
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Via Monastica 2022
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Welcome to Spain and Buen camino, Peregrino!
- Time of past OR future Camino
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I notice a few updated posts in the past week or so about parts of this camino under the Camino Catalon section. Not sure if these are helpful at all as you continue to move forward, but they give some infrastructure updates and costs.
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
JabbaPapa
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Interesting to see from those threads that one refugio does exist before Montserrat, except I've decided to follow a different route after Girona ...
Anyway, weather's warm enough on this side of the Pyrenees that sleeping out is less of a problem, so that does help with my freedom
There are some helpful links on those Cami Catalan threads, thanks !!
Anyway, weather's warm enough on this side of the Pyrenees that sleeping out is less of a problem, so that does help with my freedom
There are some helpful links on those Cami Catalan threads, thanks !!
JabbaPapa
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Day 51 -- Borrassa
These have been a tough couple of days.
First, my night in Figueres was a bad one, though the accommodation I found was flawless-- but I had one of those ghastly nights where you're so tired, your body so stressed, it's impossible to sleep.
My friend Dominique called me there, telling me he nearly died, angry, distressed, scared obviously, having survived an emergency operation with 10% survival chance
... Which is complicated by a stupid feud between him and another friend that's been ongoing for 18-24 months or whatever (I've lost count) over some petty problem that should have been resolved in about 20 minutes, but wasn't
And I'm now very worried about my 2005 Compañero Anton, who had a heart attack in January, and now is not responding to texts or phone calls
Then far more trivially, at my personal level, I barely made it to the outskirts of town yesterday from sunburn and fatigue, and today have been hobbled by somehow managing to twist an ankle despite the army boots and so on ...
None of which jeapordises the Camino, which all manner of hardship is a part of, but it's still an imperfect storm to be under
These have been a tough couple of days.
First, my night in Figueres was a bad one, though the accommodation I found was flawless-- but I had one of those ghastly nights where you're so tired, your body so stressed, it's impossible to sleep.
My friend Dominique called me there, telling me he nearly died, angry, distressed, scared obviously, having survived an emergency operation with 10% survival chance
... Which is complicated by a stupid feud between him and another friend that's been ongoing for 18-24 months or whatever (I've lost count) over some petty problem that should have been resolved in about 20 minutes, but wasn't
And I'm now very worried about my 2005 Compañero Anton, who had a heart attack in January, and now is not responding to texts or phone calls
Then far more trivially, at my personal level, I barely made it to the outskirts of town yesterday from sunburn and fatigue, and today have been hobbled by somehow managing to twist an ankle despite the army boots and so on ...
None of which jeapordises the Camino, which all manner of hardship is a part of, but it's still an imperfect storm to be under
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...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
JabbaPapa
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Some good positive things today anyway -- first proper menu del peregrino, and the vino negro is fruity and abundant
And I had my first Catalan flan in 45 years or so, absolutely amazing, and reminding me exactly how and why I've always seen even the best French equivalent crème caramel as second rate
And last night's sleep outdoors on grass was more than sufficient, it was pleasant
And I had my first Catalan flan in 45 years or so, absolutely amazing, and reminding me exactly how and why I've always seen even the best French equivalent crème caramel as second rate
And last night's sleep outdoors on grass was more than sufficient, it was pleasant
JabbaPapa
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Day 54 morning -- Medinyà
I had a generous and kind offer of dinner and a room in a motel last night, gratefully accepted, and so I have slept well
The rolling green landscape of Catalonia south of Figueres is pleasant indeed, seeming as a blend of Spain with some elements of England and the more northerly parts of rural France
The waymarking and the general Camino route is also greatly improved after Figueres, and most of the hiking is on the typical dirt tracks or paths familiar to one and all, with only short stretches of tarmac in the main -- also, the routes chosen do not much lengthen your day's walking in KM terms
Weather's been changeable, alternating between overcast and cool and blazing hot sunny, and states in-between
Girona today, and I'm pondering a detour via Bonmatí simply due to the pilgrim's refugio there, though it might be a few K too far outside my projected route
In the next few days and weeks I'll have to make some more definite decisions about where to after Zaragoza -- I still have the possibility of just shifting to the Francès from there, instead of the lonelier route more South, and time constraints might induce this ; though how to get then to Fatima and which routes to follow thereafter -- as I definitely still am keen to do my Francès a revès -- still eludes me in that scenario
I had a generous and kind offer of dinner and a room in a motel last night, gratefully accepted, and so I have slept well
The rolling green landscape of Catalonia south of Figueres is pleasant indeed, seeming as a blend of Spain with some elements of England and the more northerly parts of rural France
The waymarking and the general Camino route is also greatly improved after Figueres, and most of the hiking is on the typical dirt tracks or paths familiar to one and all, with only short stretches of tarmac in the main -- also, the routes chosen do not much lengthen your day's walking in KM terms
Weather's been changeable, alternating between overcast and cool and blazing hot sunny, and states in-between
Girona today, and I'm pondering a detour via Bonmatí simply due to the pilgrim's refugio there, though it might be a few K too far outside my projected route
In the next few days and weeks I'll have to make some more definite decisions about where to after Zaragoza -- I still have the possibility of just shifting to the Francès from there, instead of the lonelier route more South, and time constraints might induce this ; though how to get then to Fatima and which routes to follow thereafter -- as I definitely still am keen to do my Francès a revès -- still eludes me in that scenario
JabbaPapa
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A silly map symbol on the almost completely useless little leaflets provided by a tourist office seems -- perhaps ?? -- to suggest that there might be a pilgrim refugio in Girona ; we'll see ...
but most likely it's a youth hostel
but most likely it's a youth hostel
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
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Hang in there @JabbaPapa ... buen camino, peregrino. May that refugio materialize!
JabbaPapa
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Day 55 morning -- Girona
I slept at a homeless shelter here next to the Cathedral. They put me on the floor in a locker room, separate from the others, I think to protect me from potential thievery in the night.
Got a mattress and blanket though, so slept well -- and being bang next to the Cathedral should make attending Sunday Mass fairly easy.
Haven't really looked at a route for today, but I think I'll just keep on South instead of following the Camino back into the mountains. Distances look about the same, but my knees and ankles will be happier on the flatter terrain.
The "albergue" suggested on the silly leaflet was indeed a youth hostel -- completo, too ...
I slept at a homeless shelter here next to the Cathedral. They put me on the floor in a locker room, separate from the others, I think to protect me from potential thievery in the night.
Got a mattress and blanket though, so slept well -- and being bang next to the Cathedral should make attending Sunday Mass fairly easy.
Haven't really looked at a route for today, but I think I'll just keep on South instead of following the Camino back into the mountains. Distances look about the same, but my knees and ankles will be happier on the flatter terrain.
The "albergue" suggested on the silly leaflet was indeed a youth hostel -- completo, too ...
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
JabbaPapa
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... But hmmmmmm, looking at the map in more detail, the southerly route looks like being particularly ghastly, regardless of terrain.
So I guess I'll just follow the Camino and head towards Bonmatì and etc
So I guess I'll just follow the Camino and head towards Bonmatì and etc
lovingkindness
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
JabbaPapa
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Day 55 -- Bescanó
aaaaand somehow I've managed my third free dinner in a row, this time from a promotional event at a pizzeria here -- excellent pizza pieces too, made in the proper Neapolitan manner, thin crust, the right cheese and the good tomatoes -- with even a free glass of Peroni beer thrown in, though I did buy a bottle too, which I'm about to drink
One of the men there is a former bicycle pilgrim too (Camino del Norte), so there was even some pilgrimage chat
The Camino here follows the old railway track, and the place I've found to put down my sleeping kit outside tonight is at the old station
I'll have a seriously short day tomorrow, as I simply will not pass up on the chance at sleeping in a proper refugio
It's all OK ...
aaaaand somehow I've managed my third free dinner in a row, this time from a promotional event at a pizzeria here -- excellent pizza pieces too, made in the proper Neapolitan manner, thin crust, the right cheese and the good tomatoes -- with even a free glass of Peroni beer thrown in, though I did buy a bottle too, which I'm about to drink
One of the men there is a former bicycle pilgrim too (Camino del Norte), so there was even some pilgrimage chat
The Camino here follows the old railway track, and the place I've found to put down my sleeping kit outside tonight is at the old station
I'll have a seriously short day tomorrow, as I simply will not pass up on the chance at sleeping in a proper refugio
It's all OK ...
JabbaPapa
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Day 56
So here's a new one ...
There is indeed a refugio in Bonmatí -- a municipal -- I paid my 9€ and they took me there, but then it turns out they're letting a homeless person use it, and suddenly I can no longer sleep there, says the mayor
Powerful stuff, though I'm quite aware of the irony, 2 days after I was welcomed as a pilgrim at the homeless refuge ...
Nevertheless, it's odd to say the least that the only proper refugio between Perpignan and Montserrat has no bed for a pilgrim, even though I could count 5 sleeping places there, a single and 2 bunk beds
aaaaaah well, it's 3K to Anglès which was my plan B anyway, if this refugio had turned out to be just a traveller's tale (an experienced local ex-pilgrim had this morning denied its existence to me), and I'll see if the priest can't help
I'll need a stiff re-supply there anyway, as there's an upcoming 30K+ along the river and reservoir lakes that's going to take a couple of days at my current rate
Ultreia and Sus Eia as usual in other words ...
So here's a new one ...
There is indeed a refugio in Bonmatí -- a municipal -- I paid my 9€ and they took me there, but then it turns out they're letting a homeless person use it, and suddenly I can no longer sleep there, says the mayor
Powerful stuff, though I'm quite aware of the irony, 2 days after I was welcomed as a pilgrim at the homeless refuge ...
Nevertheless, it's odd to say the least that the only proper refugio between Perpignan and Montserrat has no bed for a pilgrim, even though I could count 5 sleeping places there, a single and 2 bunk beds
aaaaaah well, it's 3K to Anglès which was my plan B anyway, if this refugio had turned out to be just a traveller's tale (an experienced local ex-pilgrim had this morning denied its existence to me), and I'll see if the priest can't help
I'll need a stiff re-supply there anyway, as there's an upcoming 30K+ along the river and reservoir lakes that's going to take a couple of days at my current rate
Ultreia and Sus Eia as usual in other words ...
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Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
2nd ed.
- Time of past OR future Camino
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Did they give you back your money? Hope the ankle is not too bad.
JabbaPapa
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Of course they did, but perhaps forcing a pilgrim to sleep outside instead of in the pilgrim refuge because you've put someone in there, not a pilgrim, to help them not sleep outside is still pretty insane.
That this is one of only TWO pilgrim refugios between Béziers and Montserrat (!!!) of course adds significant insult to the injury.
JabbaPapa
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Day 56 -- Anglès
Where I'll be sleeping is anyway far better than that refugio, the priest here is excellent, just had my shower and a simple peregrino dinner, and I write this post in a lovely garden and with the sounds of Catalan song to help with the poetry
I also managed to say what I think about that refugio situation to a friend of the guy who refused to let me stay there, so all good
Ultreia indeed !!!
Where I'll be sleeping is anyway far better than that refugio, the priest here is excellent, just had my shower and a simple peregrino dinner, and I write this post in a lovely garden and with the sounds of Catalan song to help with the poetry
I also managed to say what I think about that refugio situation to a friend of the guy who refused to let me stay there, so all good
Ultreia indeed !!!
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
JabbaPapa
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Day 58 -- back in civilisation !!
did my first 25K of this 2019 today -- the Anglès to Vilanova de Seu trail is a 40K one, beautiful to walk through, but bare and dusty and up and up and up (except for one lengthy stretch of flat after the second dam) -- it's hardly a surprise that most seem to cycle rather than walk it, though even the cyclists are few in number ; it's really quite a tough one
Sleeping in a rehearsal hall in the local town hall, it's heated, and there's electricity and network after two days out in the sticks
Slept in a little clearing in the woods last night, first time I think since the 2005
did my first 25K of this 2019 today -- the Anglès to Vilanova de Seu trail is a 40K one, beautiful to walk through, but bare and dusty and up and up and up (except for one lengthy stretch of flat after the second dam) -- it's hardly a surprise that most seem to cycle rather than walk it, though even the cyclists are few in number ; it's really quite a tough one
Sleeping in a rehearsal hall in the local town hall, it's heated, and there's electricity and network after two days out in the sticks
Slept in a little clearing in the woods last night, first time I think since the 2005
JabbaPapa
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Day 60, morning -- Vic
... though last night I slept on someone's kindly garage floor in Folgueroles, that I had actually walked through earlier ; but Joan stopped as I was on the Camino and walking into Vic, to make his kind offer of something to eat and a place to put my kit down for the night.
Yesterday was a pleasant walk, even the tarmac section was OK, up a bit more into these Pyrenean foothills, but in a non-annoying manner, especially compared to the previous stage -- great views along the way, though of course more pastoral than wilderness
Today is a slightly long stage, not so bad length-wise, though climbing up to 1000m altitude -- tomorrow will be a similar length, but downhill instead
Today's a bit of a landmark anyway as it's day 60 hiking, whereas my rest for the thigh injury lasted 59 -- Yay !!!
Raining today, fairly gently, so should be good walking weather -- there's a couple of pueblos between Vic and l'Estany, fairly close to Vic but they'll both be good for a rest place
... though last night I slept on someone's kindly garage floor in Folgueroles, that I had actually walked through earlier ; but Joan stopped as I was on the Camino and walking into Vic, to make his kind offer of something to eat and a place to put my kit down for the night.
Yesterday was a pleasant walk, even the tarmac section was OK, up a bit more into these Pyrenean foothills, but in a non-annoying manner, especially compared to the previous stage -- great views along the way, though of course more pastoral than wilderness
Today is a slightly long stage, not so bad length-wise, though climbing up to 1000m altitude -- tomorrow will be a similar length, but downhill instead
Today's a bit of a landmark anyway as it's day 60 hiking, whereas my rest for the thigh injury lasted 59 -- Yay !!!
Raining today, fairly gently, so should be good walking weather -- there's a couple of pueblos between Vic and l'Estany, fairly close to Vic but they'll both be good for a rest place
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JabbaPapa
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hmmmmm, I'm considering maybe swapping my original plan for a Logroño to Astorga run, then switch onto the Via de la Plata there, down to Caceres and Fatima
Though I still don't know if I'll have to take my second break in June or July
Though I still don't know if I'll have to take my second break in June or July
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
JabbaPapa
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Nothing much worked today, not my knees nor my tummy -- oh well, l'Escany tomorrow instead then ...
Made it as far as Santa Eulàlia de Riuprimer anyway, tummy's calming down slowly, and here's hoping for somewhere not too sordid to lay my sleeping bag down
Made it as far as Santa Eulàlia de Riuprimer anyway, tummy's calming down slowly, and here's hoping for somewhere not too sordid to lay my sleeping bag down
JabbaPapa
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Done -- sleeping in the Presbytery on a nice mattress on the floor (no priest here any more, the town hall is in charge of it) ; I'm exhausted from the indigestion (which has pretty much gone now), and so I'm already in bed though it's just 6 PM
F
Former member 49149
Guest
There are remedies for indigestion...
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
2nd ed.
JabbaPapa
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Patience worked for me.
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Hope you are feeling better today. Got word this week that Phil and I will be hospitaleros in Estella at Albergue de San Miguel the last half of July. We'll be in Santiago going to language school the first half.
F
Former member 49149
Guest
I just might see you! I would love that, you have so many stories to tell...
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
JabbaPapa
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Day 61 -- l'Estany
Well !!!
I am sleeping in VERY refugio-like conditions here tonight, minus anyone here to snore except me LOL, but I have bagsied one of the bottom bunks
The hike up here is generally quite lovely, far nicer than it looks like on paper or pixel
It winds up to about 1000m altitude at the top of the valley, but that's quite gently, over about 6 to 7 K, between woods and pastures, sheep and cattle, mountain and valley.
It *is* a mud trail rather than a dirt one, so I dodged a bullet by not climbing it after the rain yesterday
It is feeling more like a Spanish Camino as I close in on the Cami Catalan proper
Well !!!
I am sleeping in VERY refugio-like conditions here tonight, minus anyone here to snore except me LOL, but I have bagsied one of the bottom bunks
The hike up here is generally quite lovely, far nicer than it looks like on paper or pixel
It winds up to about 1000m altitude at the top of the valley, but that's quite gently, over about 6 to 7 K, between woods and pastures, sheep and cattle, mountain and valley.
It *is* a mud trail rather than a dirt one, so I dodged a bullet by not climbing it after the rain yesterday
It is feeling more like a Spanish Camino as I close in on the Cami Catalan proper
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Buen Camino! 61 days out on the trail - that's wonderful. Enjoy.
JabbaPapa
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Day 66 -- Sant Salvador de Guardiola
I've been hit with a degree of Camino fatigue - physical that is, not mental.
The walk down from l'Estany is a lot better than the walk up, including because the track is proper dirt instead of mud (which was a relief in the thunderstorm & hail storm that day), though I only got out from there at midday because of the Sunday Mass.
But in the whereabouts of Santa Maria d'Olò, the Camino does a French-style GR trick, and winds up into the pointless forest instead of into any pueblos.
The weather that evening was so bad I had to break open the piggy bank and pay €25 for a hotel room (very comfy), then next day some more €€€ for a menu del dia, which have hit my budget hard.
Two nights in parish locations on floors, the second more comfortable in Navarcles.
But the fatigue was hitting me hard.
I took a rest day in Manresa, where multiple very incompetent people sent me running about town in search of a bed.
Finally, the priest who would have been very willing told me he couldn't help from being in Brussels, but just as I then sat down, resigned to sleeping out, a Camino Angel in the form of Marc, a former Peregrino of the Camino del Norte, approached me exactly then, to finally offer me to sleep at his place, an offer warmly accepted, though it meant sitting out 'til 11:30 as he dealt with a late work meeting of some sort.
It was great anyway last night and this morning to have some Peregrino chat, as I *am* starting to feel a bit starved of it.
I'm taking a short cut, to avoid the mountain at Montserrat, and provided this funk and fatigue will have passed, I should get onto the main Camino route tomorrow at Igualada.
I'm sleeping out, on a grass common covered with cotton-like pollen. Trees soar above, and the birds are singing their evensong.
I've been hit with a degree of Camino fatigue - physical that is, not mental.
The walk down from l'Estany is a lot better than the walk up, including because the track is proper dirt instead of mud (which was a relief in the thunderstorm & hail storm that day), though I only got out from there at midday because of the Sunday Mass.
But in the whereabouts of Santa Maria d'Olò, the Camino does a French-style GR trick, and winds up into the pointless forest instead of into any pueblos.
The weather that evening was so bad I had to break open the piggy bank and pay €25 for a hotel room (very comfy), then next day some more €€€ for a menu del dia, which have hit my budget hard.
Two nights in parish locations on floors, the second more comfortable in Navarcles.
But the fatigue was hitting me hard.
I took a rest day in Manresa, where multiple very incompetent people sent me running about town in search of a bed.
Finally, the priest who would have been very willing told me he couldn't help from being in Brussels, but just as I then sat down, resigned to sleeping out, a Camino Angel in the form of Marc, a former Peregrino of the Camino del Norte, approached me exactly then, to finally offer me to sleep at his place, an offer warmly accepted, though it meant sitting out 'til 11:30 as he dealt with a late work meeting of some sort.
It was great anyway last night and this morning to have some Peregrino chat, as I *am* starting to feel a bit starved of it.
I'm taking a short cut, to avoid the mountain at Montserrat, and provided this funk and fatigue will have passed, I should get onto the main Camino route tomorrow at Igualada.
I'm sleeping out, on a grass common covered with cotton-like pollen. Trees soar above, and the birds are singing their evensong.
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
JabbaPapa
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Day 68 morning -- Igualada
Yesterday was about a 23K on tarmac in the rain, and I surprised myself by getting into town not much after 6 PM
First Refugio de Peregrinos I've slept in since Perpignan, and I very much needed it.
The scenery shifted on the final part of the walk down here, from the semi-Spanish & semi-French feel in Catalonia so far, on both sides of the Pyrenees, to a more typically Spanish landscape of bare hills and rolling farmlands and woods
There were two others in the Refugio last night, not pilgrims though --- barely talked with them at all, but it still made a nice difference
I clearly won't walk far today, as I am making the most of how late you can stay in this place -- but time to get a move on approaches quickly enough
Yesterday was about a 23K on tarmac in the rain, and I surprised myself by getting into town not much after 6 PM
First Refugio de Peregrinos I've slept in since Perpignan, and I very much needed it.
The scenery shifted on the final part of the walk down here, from the semi-Spanish & semi-French feel in Catalonia so far, on both sides of the Pyrenees, to a more typically Spanish landscape of bare hills and rolling farmlands and woods
There were two others in the Refugio last night, not pilgrims though --- barely talked with them at all, but it still made a nice difference
I clearly won't walk far today, as I am making the most of how late you can stay in this place -- but time to get a move on approaches quickly enough
JabbaPapa
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Day 68 -- Jorba
As expected, a low K day, about a 10ish or so I think total including walkabout this morning in Igualada
Nearly the first people I saw this morning whoops nearly midday were two Peregrinos, seemed like one of those Spanish father/daughter tag teams that one comes across on these Ways, but both that time and the second time I saw them later they were too far to talk with -- though second time later, the father seemed to be carefully perusing the little leaflet about that Refugio in Igualada
I am at the Refugio in Jorba -- YAY first time in this 2019 that I've had the joy of two subsequent nights in Pilgrim lodging
I *did* need to seek alms to pay for the night, as this month's pittance allowance finally ran dry this morning, but ...
The Hospitalero amazingly offered me the first real proper Menu del Peregrino of this go 'round, given in Charity, leftovers of course from the restaurant kitchen, but still a lovely three courses, the main being chicken legs fricassé'd with onions and garlic cloves, all to be washed down with a fine bottle of fruity vino tinto
As expected, a low K day, about a 10ish or so I think total including walkabout this morning in Igualada
Nearly the first people I saw this morning whoops nearly midday were two Peregrinos, seemed like one of those Spanish father/daughter tag teams that one comes across on these Ways, but both that time and the second time I saw them later they were too far to talk with -- though second time later, the father seemed to be carefully perusing the little leaflet about that Refugio in Igualada
I am at the Refugio in Jorba -- YAY first time in this 2019 that I've had the joy of two subsequent nights in Pilgrim lodging
I *did* need to seek alms to pay for the night, as this month's pittance allowance finally ran dry this morning, but ...
The Hospitalero amazingly offered me the first real proper Menu del Peregrino of this go 'round, given in Charity, leftovers of course from the restaurant kitchen, but still a lovely three courses, the main being chicken legs fricassé'd with onions and garlic cloves, all to be washed down with a fine bottle of fruity vino tinto
JabbaPapa
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Day 69 -- La Panadella
Today was a day of gratitude for Pilgrim solidarity for me
I started late, that Refugio was quite simply *too* comfy so I slept 'til 10
Later that morning though, a lovely Spanish ex-Peregrina helped with some cash for food, and it was a beautiful scallop shell pendant she was wearing too
Then a few K down the road, I met Vadias, a Pilgrim from Lithuania walking with his son, and we ended up walking a few K together, first time for me this Camino, and he most generously offered to finance a bed for a night, and a meal, plus the excellent peregrino company and chat that I'd been starting to feel a bit starved of !!
It is so good to be back in this more typical Camino environment again at last, after so many weeks of the solitudinous way ...
Vadias and his son are just doing a week on the Camino, but his son is planning on getting back into it to do the whole thing once he turns 18
Vadias and I anyway were together in the joy of spending some good times with pilgrims, he because it's his first, and he was wondering where all the pilgrims were, I because after nearly 70 days, to finally share with other pilgrims on the Way has been amazing
And yay, third night with a warm bed in a row !!!
Today was a day of gratitude for Pilgrim solidarity for me
I started late, that Refugio was quite simply *too* comfy so I slept 'til 10
Later that morning though, a lovely Spanish ex-Peregrina helped with some cash for food, and it was a beautiful scallop shell pendant she was wearing too
Then a few K down the road, I met Vadias, a Pilgrim from Lithuania walking with his son, and we ended up walking a few K together, first time for me this Camino, and he most generously offered to finance a bed for a night, and a meal, plus the excellent peregrino company and chat that I'd been starting to feel a bit starved of !!
It is so good to be back in this more typical Camino environment again at last, after so many weeks of the solitudinous way ...
Vadias and his son are just doing a week on the Camino, but his son is planning on getting back into it to do the whole thing once he turns 18
Vadias and I anyway were together in the joy of spending some good times with pilgrims, he because it's his first, and he was wondering where all the pilgrims were, I because after nearly 70 days, to finally share with other pilgrims on the Way has been amazing
And yay, third night with a warm bed in a row !!!
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Glad you are finding both comfortable shelter and good company!
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Day 71 morning -- Cervera
I had a good early start yesterday, and was even contemplating going onwards to Tàrraga, but then I made the mistake of trying to follow an old route of the Camino, which ended up leading nowhere but into some woods, and battling through those took far too much time for that project
One thing I knew about this stretch of the Camino, but hadn't quite realised properly, is that there's a second pilgrimage following a good portion of it, except in the opposite direction -- the Camino Ignaciano, which begins at Loyola and ends at Manresa
So there are seven pilgrims who stayed here last night, not sure if that includes me, and it would also seem that most of the pilgrims following this particular section here are following this Camino -- and I'm guessing that the two pilgrims I saw at Igualada and never again were doing so also
The Ignaciano route is basically the same as mine on the Catalan 'til Logroño
The Refugio is kept by nuns at the convent here, and is quite spartan, and yet pilgrims are given their own private spaces in little cubicles -- some few with two beds, but mine is a tiny single bed affair, with its own little sink ; there's probably enough beds for about 30 people at least
Not sure how far I'll go today, but possibly just a short one to Tàrraga, where the Way splits, one route up towards Huesca and Jaca and the Arragonès, then the one I'll be following via Lleida towards Zaragoza, the Ebro route, and Logroño
Cervera is a milestone, as it's about 1000K from here to Santiago, so it's half of my Way there, and either the third or quarter mark for my 2019, depending on whether I do succeed in walking all the way home, or if I end up finishing at Lourdes
I had a good early start yesterday, and was even contemplating going onwards to Tàrraga, but then I made the mistake of trying to follow an old route of the Camino, which ended up leading nowhere but into some woods, and battling through those took far too much time for that project
One thing I knew about this stretch of the Camino, but hadn't quite realised properly, is that there's a second pilgrimage following a good portion of it, except in the opposite direction -- the Camino Ignaciano, which begins at Loyola and ends at Manresa
So there are seven pilgrims who stayed here last night, not sure if that includes me, and it would also seem that most of the pilgrims following this particular section here are following this Camino -- and I'm guessing that the two pilgrims I saw at Igualada and never again were doing so also
The Ignaciano route is basically the same as mine on the Catalan 'til Logroño
The Refugio is kept by nuns at the convent here, and is quite spartan, and yet pilgrims are given their own private spaces in little cubicles -- some few with two beds, but mine is a tiny single bed affair, with its own little sink ; there's probably enough beds for about 30 people at least
Not sure how far I'll go today, but possibly just a short one to Tàrraga, where the Way splits, one route up towards Huesca and Jaca and the Arragonès, then the one I'll be following via Lleida towards Zaragoza, the Ebro route, and Logroño
Cervera is a milestone, as it's about 1000K from here to Santiago, so it's half of my Way there, and either the third or quarter mark for my 2019, depending on whether I do succeed in walking all the way home, or if I end up finishing at Lourdes
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JabbaPapa
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Day 72 -- Castellnou de Seana
Slept at Tàrrega yesterday, though in hindsight, it might have been better to do the extra 5K to Anglesola and sleep there, even outside -- the Refugio situation at Tàrrega is just plain weird, as it's located in a facility also housing mental patients
The Camino OTOH is becoming very meseta-like, similar to how it becomes after Léon. My knees are grateful for all the flatness. Still, I am now basically climbing up Spain's central plateau towards Logroño and the meseta section of the Francès, so it's not that surprising -- anyway, I love the meseta personally, and I'm certainly not unhappy that this Catalan Way is starting to resemble the Francès, except without the crowds
And the Refugio here is very 1990s, basically just 8 bunk bed places and a non-working shower (at least the loo works !!), though I'm hardly complaining, because apart from the nostalgia element to it, the man with the key has let me sleep here for free instead of the €5 it normally costs
Today was a 18K one, and it felt comfortable, which is a great advancement -- but Lleida might still be a smidgeon too far to get to tomorrow ; still, I do now seem to be doing 15-20 /day rather than 15ish, and I am starting to feel myself capable of upping that to 15-25
It seems I need to struggle through about 1000K before the proper hiking can begin -- it was the same on the 2014.
Oh well, at least this 2019 one is long enough that I won't have the same frustration of only doing 1200K as I did 5 years ago, and stopping just as the walking was beginning to get better.
Slept at Tàrrega yesterday, though in hindsight, it might have been better to do the extra 5K to Anglesola and sleep there, even outside -- the Refugio situation at Tàrrega is just plain weird, as it's located in a facility also housing mental patients
The Camino OTOH is becoming very meseta-like, similar to how it becomes after Léon. My knees are grateful for all the flatness. Still, I am now basically climbing up Spain's central plateau towards Logroño and the meseta section of the Francès, so it's not that surprising -- anyway, I love the meseta personally, and I'm certainly not unhappy that this Catalan Way is starting to resemble the Francès, except without the crowds
And the Refugio here is very 1990s, basically just 8 bunk bed places and a non-working shower (at least the loo works !!), though I'm hardly complaining, because apart from the nostalgia element to it, the man with the key has let me sleep here for free instead of the €5 it normally costs
Today was a 18K one, and it felt comfortable, which is a great advancement -- but Lleida might still be a smidgeon too far to get to tomorrow ; still, I do now seem to be doing 15-20 /day rather than 15ish, and I am starting to feel myself capable of upping that to 15-25
It seems I need to struggle through about 1000K before the proper hiking can begin -- it was the same on the 2014.
Oh well, at least this 2019 one is long enough that I won't have the same frustration of only doing 1200K as I did 5 years ago, and stopping just as the walking was beginning to get better.
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Day 73 -- midday rest in a pueblo
Couple things I forgot to mention ...
The contents of my backpack have compacted far enough that I can actually squeeze my French Army sleeping bag into the thing -- does help make it easier to carry, plus on future rainy days the bedding should now keep dry (YAY!!)
Something else that's suddenly started rapidly compacting is my flab, though I *do* wish it might one day start doing so at some shorter distances than 1000K ...
And this sudden beginning of an improvement in this weight nonsense means I simply cannot take my necessary administrative home break in June, but I will absolutely need to defer it to July -- so I should likely make it to at least Burgos or Léon before needing that break
Oh, and I worked out that the fatigue I had been suffering from sometimes in recent weeks was from eating bread -- the only cereal I can take without it making me ill is cheap cerveza, and I've simply got to abandon any and all wheat solids especially except in very small quantities
YES it is very weird that beer has turned out for me to be a necessary essential, but this particular Camino is being quite harsh on me in that dietary respect -- though I rather doubt that I can get it reimbursed on social security ...
Couple things I forgot to mention ...
The contents of my backpack have compacted far enough that I can actually squeeze my French Army sleeping bag into the thing -- does help make it easier to carry, plus on future rainy days the bedding should now keep dry (YAY!!)
Something else that's suddenly started rapidly compacting is my flab, though I *do* wish it might one day start doing so at some shorter distances than 1000K ...
And this sudden beginning of an improvement in this weight nonsense means I simply cannot take my necessary administrative home break in June, but I will absolutely need to defer it to July -- so I should likely make it to at least Burgos or Léon before needing that break
Oh, and I worked out that the fatigue I had been suffering from sometimes in recent weeks was from eating bread -- the only cereal I can take without it making me ill is cheap cerveza, and I've simply got to abandon any and all wheat solids especially except in very small quantities
YES it is very weird that beer has turned out for me to be a necessary essential, but this particular Camino is being quite harsh on me in that dietary respect -- though I rather doubt that I can get it reimbursed on social security ...
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MadridWay- Fall '23
Somehow I've missed many of your posts, but have just read the last few and enjoyed them. You have a nice writing style and share lots of good tidbits about your pilgrimage.
JabbaPapa
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Day 73 -- el Palau d'Anglesola
Truth is that I find this pueblo to be so pleasant that I may just stop and sleep here -- there's a Refugio, it's at the good distance for a stretch into Lleida tomorrow, and I dunno, but I have a sense of calm and simplicity from all that's here ; even the stray cats seem to have the exact sort of clear and present monolithity that I cherish
Truth is that I find this pueblo to be so pleasant that I may just stop and sleep here -- there's a Refugio, it's at the good distance for a stretch into Lleida tomorrow, and I dunno, but I have a sense of calm and simplicity from all that's here ; even the stray cats seem to have the exact sort of clear and present monolithity that I cherish
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JabbaPapa
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Day 76 -- spoiler alert
I'll write something more detailed later, but there's an absolutely horrid heatwave, teaching me that something that I used to be good at -- resisting the heat -- has become something I can no longer do.
The Summer Camino has become too much for me ; particularly annoying to me personally, as I once did a 65K in 40° C, far worse than present conditions here ; but it seems that age is catching up to me once again LOL
So, I'm taking my break in a few days, and it's likely to be a long one, indeed I have no idea how long that might be, nor even complete control over it
More later ...
I'll write something more detailed later, but there's an absolutely horrid heatwave, teaching me that something that I used to be good at -- resisting the heat -- has become something I can no longer do.
The Summer Camino has become too much for me ; particularly annoying to me personally, as I once did a 65K in 40° C, far worse than present conditions here ; but it seems that age is catching up to me once again LOL
So, I'm taking my break in a few days, and it's likely to be a long one, indeed I have no idea how long that might be, nor even complete control over it
More later ...
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MadridWay- Fall '23
Smart move, Jabba! 
I hate walking in the heat, it depletes all my energy! You can always "carry on" later!
I hate walking in the heat, it depletes all my energy! You can always "carry on" later!
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I had a heat injury once in the military and I know my limits now. Rest up. Maybe this can be the administrative break you mentioned earlier.
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Day 76 -- Alcoletge
Anyone looking at maps will see I haven't even made it to Lleida ...
I will say something about the Refugio here though ...
Rarely do I find that somewhere for more than €5 is actually worth the extra, but here is one of those rare ones.
The bunk beds are pretty standard, though cleaner than typical. Marred slightly by no handy plug socket at head rest.
The rest of the place truly shines though -- full fitted kitchen, and I was lucky enough to find some food left over from predecessor peregrinos ; services and showers are spotlessly impeccable ; there's a washing machine and dryer ; a spacious living area, with a long dining table and also two leather-covered sofas.
Not my preferred Refugio this year, but by far the most comfortable
Anyone looking at maps will see I haven't even made it to Lleida ...
I will say something about the Refugio here though ...
Rarely do I find that somewhere for more than €5 is actually worth the extra, but here is one of those rare ones.
The bunk beds are pretty standard, though cleaner than typical. Marred slightly by no handy plug socket at head rest.
The rest of the place truly shines though -- full fitted kitchen, and I was lucky enough to find some food left over from predecessor peregrinos ; services and showers are spotlessly impeccable ; there's a washing machine and dryer ; a spacious living area, with a long dining table and also two leather-covered sofas.
Not my preferred Refugio this year, but by far the most comfortable
JabbaPapa
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Day 77 -- Lleida -- and then Andorra
Well I made it easily into Lleida, at the same time realising it was the best place to end this second stage of my Camino ; so I sought alms for a bus fare rather than cash for a refugio, and a priest in Andorra scored a hotel room for me, so ...
Here I am in Hotel El Cheapo at Andorra, on my way home
I had hard confirmation this afternoon in Lleida that I simply can no longer manage the heat of these dog days on the Camino, as I found myself sweltering even in a proper shade, the whole bulk of the bus station casting it. It was a relief just to step out into these Pyrenees and feel myself out of it.
And so I'll start again at Lleida when possible, the likeliest being either this autumn or in the spring. Weather forecasting I've seen anyway suggests that it will be a particularly scalding summer over in Iberia -- and whatever I do on this 2019, putting my health at risk like that won't be one of them
Well I made it easily into Lleida, at the same time realising it was the best place to end this second stage of my Camino ; so I sought alms for a bus fare rather than cash for a refugio, and a priest in Andorra scored a hotel room for me, so ...
Here I am in Hotel El Cheapo at Andorra, on my way home
I had hard confirmation this afternoon in Lleida that I simply can no longer manage the heat of these dog days on the Camino, as I found myself sweltering even in a proper shade, the whole bulk of the bus station casting it. It was a relief just to step out into these Pyrenees and feel myself out of it.
And so I'll start again at Lleida when possible, the likeliest being either this autumn or in the spring. Weather forecasting I've seen anyway suggests that it will be a particularly scalding summer over in Iberia -- and whatever I do on this 2019, putting my health at risk like that won't be one of them
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I visited Andorra as a child and remember there were little reddish bushes. I thought it looked like the mountains had measles. Funny how my impression as a child age 7 has stuck with me through the years... I look forward to reading about your Stage 3 of the 2019 Camino.
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It was snowing when we were there so probably late winter or early spring? Sorry, it was 50 years ago...
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Well this is all terribly interesting.
My administrative trip home seems to have borne fruit, so that it would seem that I might start getting some handicap payments in a month or two instead of the present measly and beggary pittance.
And as far as the Camino is concerned, well, these developments massively increase the probability that I'll be starting again this year rather than next.
Crikey, even a late August re-start has become a potential.
But I think my 2019 walking is still happening -- though I now seriously doubt that this Camino will end before 2020.
I still really have no idea whether I'll want to finish at Lourdes or at home.
My administrative trip home seems to have borne fruit, so that it would seem that I might start getting some handicap payments in a month or two instead of the present measly and beggary pittance.
And as far as the Camino is concerned, well, these developments massively increase the probability that I'll be starting again this year rather than next.
Crikey, even a late August re-start has become a potential.
But I think my 2019 walking is still happening -- though I now seriously doubt that this Camino will end before 2020.
I still really have no idea whether I'll want to finish at Lourdes or at home.
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JabbaPapa
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OK, starting in my head to plan September to December for my third stage -- I'll need to make another break at that point whatever happens, again for the pesky Administrative purposes, but it seems that St James wants this 2019-2020 of mine done more bite-sized than I'm accustomed to ; not the faintest idea why so !!
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It is very hot right now so Sept may be better. Hope it will work out for you to continue then.
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JabbaPapa
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I would have continued 'til start of July had it not been for the heat
JabbaPapa
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My forthcoming departure is almost certainly delayed from French administrative slowness, but the good news is that they seem to have accorded me a Handicap Benefit 'til 2022, so that when I do finally manage to start making my Way again, all will be financially less disastrous than in any previous Camino.
Though next stage will need to finish in December for other, well, administrative reasons --
Gotta love the French !!!
This does mean though that the chance that I'll finish the whole Camino back to Home has substantially increased.
Though next stage will need to finish in December for other, well, administrative reasons --
Gotta love the French !!!
This does mean though that the chance that I'll finish the whole Camino back to Home has substantially increased.
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MadridWay- Fall '23
Thanks for the update, Jabba. Wish you well when you launch your third stage!
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JabbaPapa
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These new circumstances require me to walk all the Way back home, regardless any difficulty, simply from the basis of what I and others have prayed for.
So.
I've ~3000K ahead of me on this Camino ...
So.
I've ~3000K ahead of me on this Camino ...
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Best wishes as you prepare for the third segment and congrats on navigating the administrative paperwork! Phil and I are back home in Boise after our hospitalero work in Estella and a side trip to help Care for my ailing parents. Do you plan to start later in the fall to avoid the heat or will you begin again soon?
JabbaPapa
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Well, the process took (and in fact still is taking) longer than I'd hoped, so that no re-start date earlier than late September or early October is now achievable ; because of some necessaries I need to acquire or re-acquire, including meds, but also stuff like socks, "new" Windows Phone (upgrade), a 2nd pair of size 14 army boots (for better long-term management of the footgear), and a replacement great big black pilgrim cape -- sigh ...
Avoiding the heat was the whole point of why I ended the last stage at the start of June (already up to ~32-34°C in Catalonia, and that was in the shade) rather than start of July as originally hoped, so that even if all that "stuff" got fixed real fast (highly doubtful), I'd still not contemplate getting back in 'til mid-September at earliest.
erm, I'll also need I think two more blank credenciales to glue into my already 11ft/3m40 long monster, as I've already used more than half the space on side A ...
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...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
JabbaPapa
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My head is still just at the beginning of the process of fully understanding the degree to which my life will a) remain exactly the same, and b) change completely, from this obtaining of the standard French handicap benefit ...
I'm still nowhere near being able to comprehend exactly how it will affect this ongoing Camino, as my head has only got so far as realising that it means X fewer roadside rubbish supermercado meals of dubious nourishment, and Y more simple and normal menus del peregrino.
Though certainly, the absence of how much "no tengo dinero" and alms-seeking I've been so long forced to engage in, from being incapable of work but not covered for it, will be a massive difference once I restart.
It's actually hard for me to envisage a pilgrimage without intrinsic financial worries, because even on my very best attempt at doing so, somebody stole all of my money on week 1 ... I have never been on a Camino except impoverished (certain unusual days or weeks excepted).
---
Nevertheless, from my "True Pilgrim" perspective, and sorry but I am one, this 2019-2020 has been and continues to be, well, just plain weird.
I've been forced by the Camino to abandon a "purism" that I am no longer physically capable of (a "True Pilgrim" accepts what's provided, including by both God and the Way itself, doesn't impose any fake nonsense where it most certainly doesn't belong) ; though perhaps I should have started to say that this Camino is completely unlike ANY that I have ever done previously ; the fact that I need to do this in stages as much from physical as RL "administrative" reasons doesn't change the underlying fact that each of these stages is longer than most people's Caminos, or that this "full" home to home Camino of mine is in toto about 5x as long as SJPP to Santiago ; nor the reality that I'm hopping along at perfectly dismal daily Km "speeds" LOL significantly slower than those of the rankest beginner.
But then I have always been of the opinion that if your current Camino is not completely unique versus all your previous ones, then there's no point doing it.
Well, unless you just enjoy the pleasantness of the hiking of course !!!
But this time, I'm getting that lesson of mine handed back to me with a vengeance.
But also with an unexpected kindness ...
I'm still nowhere near being able to comprehend exactly how it will affect this ongoing Camino, as my head has only got so far as realising that it means X fewer roadside rubbish supermercado meals of dubious nourishment, and Y more simple and normal menus del peregrino.
Though certainly, the absence of how much "no tengo dinero" and alms-seeking I've been so long forced to engage in, from being incapable of work but not covered for it, will be a massive difference once I restart.
It's actually hard for me to envisage a pilgrimage without intrinsic financial worries, because even on my very best attempt at doing so, somebody stole all of my money on week 1 ... I have never been on a Camino except impoverished (certain unusual days or weeks excepted).
---
Nevertheless, from my "True Pilgrim" perspective, and sorry but I am one, this 2019-2020 has been and continues to be, well, just plain weird.
I've been forced by the Camino to abandon a "purism" that I am no longer physically capable of (a "True Pilgrim" accepts what's provided, including by both God and the Way itself, doesn't impose any fake nonsense where it most certainly doesn't belong) ; though perhaps I should have started to say that this Camino is completely unlike ANY that I have ever done previously ; the fact that I need to do this in stages as much from physical as RL "administrative" reasons doesn't change the underlying fact that each of these stages is longer than most people's Caminos, or that this "full" home to home Camino of mine is in toto about 5x as long as SJPP to Santiago ; nor the reality that I'm hopping along at perfectly dismal daily Km "speeds" LOL significantly slower than those of the rankest beginner.
But then I have always been of the opinion that if your current Camino is not completely unique versus all your previous ones, then there's no point doing it.
Well, unless you just enjoy the pleasantness of the hiking of course !!!
But this time, I'm getting that lesson of mine handed back to me with a vengeance.
But also with an unexpected kindness ...
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JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
- Time of past OR future Camino
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meh, there will likely be a significant delay before any monies are actually paid to me for the handicap benefit, and so back on the Camino in October will probably be back to the usual rubbish hands-in-my-pockets pennilessness yet another go looks like (and it is starting to get pretty tedious, but hey, the Camino is calling and tum te tum ...)
Sus Eia.
Sus Eia.
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2016, 2022, 2023, 2024, planned 2025
There is always a backlog of approvals in the US as well. Good to know for planning purposes though.
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
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That latest was a false alarm **PHEW !!!** and so I will not be in my typical penniless state.
Still haven't received the accumulated backpay, but the final part of my dossier was done on Thursday and the handicap benefit is now listed as ongoing on the social benefits website, and I should get that money in the next few days I guess.
Still haven't received the accumulated backpay, but the final part of my dossier was done on Thursday and the handicap benefit is now listed as ongoing on the social benefits website, and I should get that money in the next few days I guess.
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
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I saw the number in €€€ this morning, and it's sweet.
It puts this Camino right Back On Track !!!
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Recent:Norte/Muxia- Spring '23
MadridWay- Fall '23
How wonderful for you, Jabba!
3rd Edition. Vital content training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 100 characters or fewer : see signature details
Thank you !!
Though I will start out by getting not just this & that Camino stuff, but also an insane computer system upgrade, the insanity being mainly an ultra-expensive UHD & UWS HDR10 computer monitor ... plus, at a later stage, the computer built around it to get it working to acceptable expectation.
bah, boys and their toys !!!
but meh, all in the sadness that these €€€ are coming in far too late and far too old for any better life project of marriage and children and career. But that's what being handicapped does to you if it hits you at a bad juncture of your life. As probably it always will.
Count your blessings.
My medication régime is mild because for X Y & Z reasons my belly is quite resistant to the anti-inflammatories. And I'm not in a wheelchair, though if I were, I'd likely do the Camino regardless !!
This will not just make this Camino far easier ; but my whole life too.
I am grateful to the Lord and to the Lady and to the Apostle. To God, Father, Son, Holy Spirit.
God, Saints, Angels, you have shown me the Way.
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Recent:Norte/Muxia- Spring '23
MadridWay- Fall '23
Yep, boys and their toys! I've got three "boys" in my life so I know.
Enjoy what is coming your way. Sounds like it is going to make your life situation much better.
Enjoy what is coming your way. Sounds like it is going to make your life situation much better.
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
- Time of past OR future Camino
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Money came in so it's a go !!! Yay !!!
Probably starting again in the beginning of October as previously suggested.
It'll be SO nice to be able to just get a normal train to Perpignan (there's a little local bus up from there to the border at Bourg-Madame /Puigcerda) -- I guess I'll sleep at the Refugio in Perpignan again.
Probably starting again in the beginning of October as previously suggested.
It'll be SO nice to be able to just get a normal train to Perpignan (there's a little local bus up from there to the border at Bourg-Madame /Puigcerda) -- I guess I'll sleep at the Refugio in Perpignan again.
A selection of Camino Jewellery
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2016, 2022, 2023, 2024, planned 2025
What a blessing for you. Only a month away, but hopefully plenty of time to restock your gear (cape, socks, boots) as mentioned earlier.
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
- Time of past OR future Camino
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My feeling is that of a weight lifted from my mind ...
I'll head into Marseilles for boots purposes early next month, but as for socks and cape they've already been ordered
Upgrade to the top tier Microsoft Phone too LOLInviting a friend to lunch tomorrow, SO nice to have the choice of doing that again !!!
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- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances 2015, 2018, 2022
Very happy for you! May all go smoothly from here forward. And how thoughtful that one of your first acts is to invite a friend for lunch. 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
- Time of past OR future Camino
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Well, I now have terminus ante quem and terminus post quem dates for stage 3 -- and annoyingly once again quite a bit shorter than hoped for.
Oh well, that's simply what this Camino is made of ...
For silly as well as some more practical reasons, I'll probably make my Way back out again on about 15th October. I'm confident enough about that I'll likely soon get my train ticket.
Then I *need* to start back home in mid-Decemberish, no precise date.
Both a later restart and shorter than I was hoping for, but well, this continues to be -- at the material level -- my strangest Camino so far -- (at the spiritual level, well, not even close)
eh, two months is at least good enough to get on with hehehe ...
---
But blimey, I really really really am starting to hope that stage 4 can be quite a bit more "purist" !!!
Oh well, that's simply what this Camino is made of ...
For silly as well as some more practical reasons, I'll probably make my Way back out again on about 15th October. I'm confident enough about that I'll likely soon get my train ticket.
Then I *need* to start back home in mid-Decemberish, no precise date.
Both a later restart and shorter than I was hoping for, but well, this continues to be -- at the material level -- my strangest Camino so far -- (at the spiritual level, well, not even close)
eh, two months is at least good enough to get on with hehehe ...
---
But blimey, I really really really am starting to hope that stage 4 can be quite a bit more "purist" !!!
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
- Time of past OR future Camino
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Annoyingly, I've sprained my ankle, and seemingly a little worse than just the usual "it'll get better in 2-3 days" (though I've personally found that sprained ankles actually heal a bit faster if you ignore them and just carry on hiking -- though of course that don't work if you're off the Camino).
Anyway, it's seriously starting to look like I'll need to delay my departure beyond the hoped-for October 15th or so.
Still waiting for the new great big black pilgrim cape (hopefully this week YAY !!!) ; have medical supplies problems (due, to a great deal, from some matters of annoying incompetence from others last month grrrr) ; and meanwhile some physical pain (plus multinational corporation negative action, don't get me started LOL) has prevented me from managing the resupply of some basics such as not just jeans and t-shirts, but also a much needed army boot repair job that I need to go to Marseilles for ...
---
Still, weather does seem to be getting back into being hike-compatible, at last !!! It's been a looooooooonnnggggg heat wave ...
Anyway, it's seriously starting to look like I'll need to delay my departure beyond the hoped-for October 15th or so.
Still waiting for the new great big black pilgrim cape (hopefully this week YAY !!!) ; have medical supplies problems (due, to a great deal, from some matters of annoying incompetence from others last month grrrr) ; and meanwhile some physical pain (plus multinational corporation negative action, don't get me started LOL) has prevented me from managing the resupply of some basics such as not just jeans and t-shirts, but also a much needed army boot repair job that I need to go to Marseilles for ...
---
Still, weather does seem to be getting back into being hike-compatible, at last !!! It's been a looooooooonnnggggg heat wave ...
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2016, 2022, 2023, 2024, planned 2025
Sorry about the sprain. I sprained my ankle on the Camino but because I used hiking poles was able to manage with an ankle wrap. It did change my gait and I ended up with plantar facsiitis in the other foot so I was a hobbling mess for several months even after I got home. Hope this won't delay you too long.
Janet
Janet
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2016, 2022, 2023, 2024, planned 2025
Would love to see a photo of it.
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
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The sprain is finally subsiding, and I'll be starting again likely in 2-3 weeks ... (I don't think that I'm that badly out of training)
Since first getting my new benefits regimen, I've (understandably) been partying a bit (well, too much frankly LOL), but now my thoughts are starting to move back towards Compostela.
Next week is mostly free so I'll be able to go up near Nice to replace the clothes that have been ruined during stages 1 & 2. (black t-shirts and black jeans are becoming annoyingly hard to replace for us tall people ...)
Then hopefully, I can **finally** get myself over to Marseilles and either get my army boots resoled or replaced, or heck why not even both ??
Since first getting my new benefits regimen, I've (understandably) been partying a bit (well, too much frankly LOL), but now my thoughts are starting to move back towards Compostela.
Next week is mostly free so I'll be able to go up near Nice to replace the clothes that have been ruined during stages 1 & 2. (black t-shirts and black jeans are becoming annoyingly hard to replace for us tall people ...)
Then hopefully, I can **finally** get myself over to Marseilles and either get my army boots resoled or replaced, or heck why not even both ??
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- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2016, 2022, 2023, 2024, planned 2025
Love the cape. In the states, once you know your size in a brand you can almost always order it to be delivered to your home in one or two days. Is it the same in France or do you need to purchase through a storefront? Might save you some time on some items if you know the brand you like.
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
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It's hand-made, so no.
Besides, I am outside standard sizes.
(though if I hadn't had my desire for the current massive & AKA costly computer upgrade I've started, first stage finished yesterday, I would have bought an ultra-traditional basically tailored Pyrenean black pilgrim's/shepherd's coat & cape instead -- and if one day I find that I can afford to, well, then I will !! Cost about 4x this)
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.
€46,-
€46,-
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2016, 2022, 2023, 2024, planned 2025
Have always wanted to do a winter camino, but work and health are always getting in our way.
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
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Finally some good news again !!
Today, I managed my first training hike since the sprained ankle.
Of course, I went onto my usual Camino/Via Aurelia/Provençal Way local stretch (it's such a blessing to live right on top of the Camino) ; and even though this one today was just the shortest version of my training routes along this part of the Way, so it's all relative effort and distance -wise -- my legs are not killing me after having done it !!
Too late to walk seriously anymore except locally this year, so that definitively extends my restart into 2020, but that's less important than getting back into being me, back on the Camino, even if just locally and just for a couple of hours.
And many more hours to come !!!
I am still planning for the next stage to be the final one and 3000K+ for all of the rest of it. I'll see how that goes ...
Today, I managed my first training hike since the sprained ankle.
Of course, I went onto my usual Camino/Via Aurelia/Provençal Way local stretch (it's such a blessing to live right on top of the Camino) ; and even though this one today was just the shortest version of my training routes along this part of the Way, so it's all relative effort and distance -wise -- my legs are not killing me after having done it !!
Too late to walk seriously anymore except locally this year, so that definitively extends my restart into 2020, but that's less important than getting back into being me, back on the Camino, even if just locally and just for a couple of hours.
And many more hours to come !!!
I am still planning for the next stage to be the final one and 3000K+ for all of the rest of it. I'll see how that goes ...
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
2nd ed.
- Time of past OR future Camino
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That is good news! Sending positive thoughts your way.
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
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Leg has Finally decided to start behaving "normally" ...
Managed to stand rather than lean in torture against a pillar at Holy Mass today, and even without any much debilitating pain as such, just the usual and normal quantity that I'm used to.
I'm still very much hoping to complete the full Camino back to home via Fatima & Santiago & Lourdes next year -- it's still extremely weird from my own personal POV that this Camino has been divided for me into stages, though I guess that it's for God's good reasons
Managed to stand rather than lean in torture against a pillar at Holy Mass today, and even without any much debilitating pain as such, just the usual and normal quantity that I'm used to.
I'm still very much hoping to complete the full Camino back to home via Fatima & Santiago & Lourdes next year -- it's still extremely weird from my own personal POV that this Camino has been divided for me into stages, though I guess that it's for God's good reasons
- Time of past OR future Camino
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We are also hampered by injury and will not walk or hospitelero until next year at this time. It is a an exercise in patience and the acceptance does not come easy. My husband suffers from depression and our Camino time is always the best treatment. Now he awaits surgery instead of looking forward to a departure date for Spain.
On your front, I hope your pension has helped you prepare your belongings for the next steps and stages. Glad your leg is supporting your weight with less pain.
On your front, I hope your pension has helped you prepare your belongings for the next steps and stages. Glad your leg is supporting your weight with less pain.
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
lovingkindness
Veteran Member
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- .
Bon courage pèlerin!
SYates
Camino Fossil AD 1999, now living in Santiago de C
- Time of past OR future Camino
- First: Camino Francés 1999
...
Last: Santiago - Muxia 2019
Now: http://egeria.house/
And I was wondering when you finally would turn up at my door step! Heal quickly pilgrim and Buen Camino de la Vida, SY
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
- Time of past OR future Camino
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Everything in preparation becomes ten times more time-consuming when you need to accommodate health issues into it.
I've had to struggle against depression too, though my own symptoms have mostly gone into remission, and when it does flare up it's much milder and it goes away fairly quickly so I can handle it. But it seems that it was a depression caused by inflammation, which was itself caused by the wrong diet (I need to avoid carbs). But yes, getting onto the Camino is a great form of treatment against the black dog ...
Good luck both of you
A selection of Camino Jewellery
JabbaPapa
"True Pilgrim"
- Time of past OR future Camino
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I have now managed again at last to walk the whole distance of my ordinary training hike along the local historic route of the Aurelia/Camino/local Francigena variant. (yay !!)
When I shall have halved the time that it's taking me ATM back into a reasonableness physically is when I shall be able to start thinking again seriously about getting my Way back to Lleida, and towards the tomb of the Apostle.
There, I shall walk in prayer, or rather silent Orison, for my very good friend Dominique who has been taken away early by a rare cancer.
Administrative nonsense persists, so that will delay my departure for a bit, aside the ongoing boring health issues, 'til probably February or I hope not March.
More positively I do still think that when I can finally start get going again, it shall be a long haul "despite Brexit" ...
When I shall have halved the time that it's taking me ATM back into a reasonableness physically is when I shall be able to start thinking again seriously about getting my Way back to Lleida, and towards the tomb of the Apostle.
There, I shall walk in prayer, or rather silent Orison, for my very good friend Dominique who has been taken away early by a rare cancer.
Administrative nonsense persists, so that will delay my departure for a bit, aside the ongoing boring health issues, 'til probably February or I hope not March.
More positively I do still think that when I can finally start get going again, it shall be a long haul "despite Brexit" ...
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