St Jean to Roncesvalles in a day, or stop at Orisson?

[Deleted member 67185]

If you want to find out how the road is between SJPDP and Roncesvalles watch this guy on youtube.

I love this video series; great photography and some good humor in the commentary. I didn't find that the video reflected this section accurately enough to truly get a clear feeling of just what this stage is like. It didn't reflect the length of the stage (how could it, really, as this is condensed for the program). And it really doesn't give a good overview of how steep the ascent is, or the descent either.

What it does do is give a good preview of the scenery and a bit of the feeling of walking on Camino.

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

SJPP to Roncevalles is a "push" in a single day. It has numerous long hill stretches. If you haven't trained for these in conjunction with the overall distance you might have issues completing it. Bear in mind (IMO) this is the toughest day of the entire CF. If you decide to go the entire distance in a day, it can be done, but leave SJPP early and really take your time utilizing scheduled breaks along the way. In addition I would also recommend doing hill training before you go.

Buen Camino !

 

[trecile]

In addition I would also recommend doing hill training before you go.

I don't think this can be repeated enough!

 

[Carlita416]

There aren't many big hills where I live .... would stairmaster at the gym be a workout similar to climbing the Pyrennes??

 

[trecile]

There aren't many big hills where I live .... would stairmaster at the gym be a workout similar to climbing the Pyrennes??

If you have no hills, the stair master or a treadmill on a steeper incline should help condition the muscles you will use.

 

[Deleted member 67185]

If you have no hills, the stair master or a treadmill on a steeper incline should help condition the muscles you will use.

It will definitely help. The StairMaster, climbing stairs, and a treadmill set to a 15% incline will do a good job of conditioning. During most winter months, I use a treadmill with a 45% incline capacity -- which I set between a 15% to a 28% incline --- along with running stairs and bleachers during the snowy months when getting into the mountains is not practical for a daily workout. When on the treadmill or StairMaster I usually stream some YouTube camino videos via my Roku. I particularly enjoy the John Sikora and the SummitXtreme set of videos.

Also be sure to do core strengthening exercises, as this also makes a a big difference when doing any kind of backpacking, trekking, or Camino walking. You might want to do a search on this site for exercises that strengthen the foot muscles for helping to reduce foot soreness and plantars fasciitis.

 

[Carlita416]

It will definitely help. The StairMaster and climbing stairs, and a treadmill set to a 15% incline will both do a good job. I use a treadmill with a 45% incline capacity, along with running stairs and bleachers during the snowy months when getting into the mountains is not practical for a daily workout. When on the treadmill or StairMaster I usually stream some YouTube camino videos via my Roku. I particularly enjoy the John Sikora and the SummitXtreme set of videos.

Also be sure to do core strengthening exercises, as this also makes a a big difference when doing any kind of backpacking, trekking, or Camino walking. You might want to do a search on this site for exercises that strengthen the foot muscles for helping to reduce foot soreness and plantars fasciitis.

I love that idea of having Camino videos at the treadmill or stairmaster!!

 

[karenmwang]

According to the local Association "au coeur du chemin", in 2014 (the latest available statistics) there were more than 9000 pilgrims leaving SJPP in September. That is, around 300 per day. Well, Orisson has 28 beds, so, a vast majority did SJPP-Roncesvalles all the way.
The Orisson refuge profits from its place (convenient, after some of the initial worst climbs) and from the natural apprehension of first time walkers. I am in my sixties, did this the last year; it was tough, but perfectly doable. I also saw pilgrims of every age and condition in this stage, including many that were not exactly fit, who arrived very tired but without particular problems. I spent 9 1/2 hours, which judging by the arrivals in the albergue, seems to be an average.
My take on this: staying in Orisson is convenient, but not imperative. I'd probably reserve there next time, provided that I have plenty of time to do my camino, because it implies an extra day; or if I arrive in the morning to SJPP, too late for walking the whole stage at once.
Buen Camino!

Your advice is very much appreciated!

 

[Pam Scott]

Hi Everyone,
I'll be undertaking my first camino early in September, I'm nervous but also super excited.I have the same debate regarding the walk to Orrison. I'll be arriving to Biarritz at 13.25 and then I'll either share a taxi with someone or get the train to St.Jean. I'm worried that by the time i get to St.Jean it'll be too late to walk to Orrison. So maybe it would be wise to book a bed in St.Jean and make my way to Roncesvalles the following day , I'm 21 and reasonably fit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Stay at St Jean and enjoy the atmosphere and the beautiful town. Start your walk refreshed and stay at Orrison and breakup what can be a long day enjoy the views as the sun sets. Buen Camino

 

[Ronald H]

My husband and I begin our pilgrimage from St Jean Pied de Port early September and are still undecided as to whether the 'wise' decision is to walk to Orisson then on the next day to Roncesvalles, or whether we're being a bit precious and should just have the long day. We'd love to hear advice from some who know better than us Thank you.

Always stop at Orisson. You will be glad you did. Make reservations early

 

[Deleted member 67185]

Always stop at Orisson. You will be glad you did. Make reservations early

Always?... hmmm. For some, Orrison is a good way-point to lay over. For others, it would be a long, boring, and early stop for the day; much depends on the personal fitness levels and the desire to spend the night in Roncesvalles..... which is what the vast majority of pilgrims do.

 

[Glenshiro]

I have made this crossing twice, at the ages of 63 and 64, and had no difficulty reaching Roncesvalles by 4:00 pm with a 8:30 am start. I am a regular, but not fanatical, walker in the UK and France and a bit overweight (which I blame on walking in France....) I have not suffered from blisters for many years, mainly due to experience but also to the right (for me) footwear.

The hardest part is to just beyond Orrison - after that it's a steady but easy climb, with a short descent to Roncesvalles.

One very firm piece of advice I was given and was thankful for is to turn right on the road down to Roncesvalles when you reach it and not plunge down the steep and often muddy track through the trees.

 

[tigermike]

The 'Refuge Orisson or not ?' question seems to me all down to a matter of personal experience.
Well, that and the availability of accommodation of course.
This will be my first Camino and whilst considering myself reasonably fit, I won't really know quite what to expect from the Pyranees until I'm there.
If Orisson is already fully booked then the decision has essentially been taken out of my hands as the idea of shuttling back and forth to SJPdP doesn't appeal.
I will therefore have no choice but to leave very early allowing plenty of time to complete the entire stretch to Roncesvalles by mid/late afternoon.
If I'm lucky and do get a bed and arrive early at Orisson feeling strong and the weather is fabulous then its simply a matter of either staying or donating my reservation to someone who might need it more than I.
Sure, that famous first night camaraderie at Refuge Orisson has enormous appeal - but so does the sense of accomplishment and (alleged) blissful exhaustion amongst pilgrims arriving in Roncesvalles after crossing the mountains in one go.
I've read that doing too much on that first day can set up problems that can seriously spoil the following week - blisters and recurring cramp for example.
As a veteran of several endurance events I've learnt to listen to my body - and that whilst training can prepare only the experience itself will determine actual performance.
For that reason I am keeping my options open and trying to get a reservation - assuming of course that they ever get round to answering my repeated emails !!

 

[trecile]

For me, coming from the west coast of the US, I felt that I needed to go a bit easier while I was still adjusting to the 9 hour time difference.
If you do make a reservation at Orisson I would suggest that you spend the morning in St Jean, have a leisurely breakfast, and look around the town before starting up to Orisson. No point in getting there at 10 am. A mid afternoon arrival would be good. Then you can relax on their deck with the beverage of your choice while you enjoy the view.

 

[grayland]

I think the important point to consider is that stopping in Orisson may make good sense to many people.
But...the sometimes constant refrain that it is necessary to stop there is simply not true for all people. It seems that often posters here and other sites strongly advocate that their experiences are the best for all..without having experiencing the alternatives.

Orisson is not large enough to accommodate more than a small number of pilgrims who start each day from St. Jean. The vast majority somehow just walk on to Roncesvalles. Most without even being aware that there was an option to stop at Orisson.

 

[tigermike]

Arriving SJPdP next Friday evening and plan to spend all day Saturday just soaking up the beautiful French village atmosphere.
Set off next Sunday, April 15th and will have all day to decide how to play things.
Weather forecast to be good, 20'C, slightly cloudy with the possibility of some isolated showers later.
Of course all that can change and I'll certainly heed the advice from the Pilgrim's Office nearer the time.
But hugely looking forward to the experience, whatever the weather.

 

[Scarlet Fez]

Tigermike on the advice of a friend who was similar age and fitness (mid 50's) he suggested to stay at the Orrison which I did. He did the Roncevalles in one hit and yes many do but he said it was a test as many don't get the chance to train long walks on steep hills and with their packs full. By the time you hit Orrison you feel it's to early to stop. Just beware the weather can at times change dramatically after that. The main thing I would say is the Camino is to be enjoyed, break yourself in gently. You can make up mileage along the route if you have dates to work to.,

 

[tigermike]

I think Grayland nailed it with his response - in fact it echoes my own feeling in many ways.
People tend to advocate what they know and have experienced first hand.
But is the 'unmissable' atmosphere around the communal dining table at Orisson on day one so much better than the vibe in all those Rocesvalles's hostelries on the same evening?
Have never walked the Camino but have spent a great deal of time in the mountains and know just how quickly the weather can change.
Which is why I said in my earlier post - if feeling strong, does one push on through Orisson in fabulous conditions or stop to enjoy the camaraderie and risk a dramatic change in weather the following day ?
Much of the beauty of the mountain is in the vista, in driving rain or dank mist that element is gone.
So I think I'll take my cue at the Refuge Orisson on the day - reservation permitting of course !

 

[Kerrymade]

My husband and I begin our pilgrimage from St Jean Pied de Port early September and are still undecided as to whether the 'wise' decision is to walk to Orisson then on the next day to Roncesvalles, or whether we're being a bit precious and should just have the long day. We'd love to hear advice from some who know better than us Thank you.

Hi having done this twice I have no hesitation in advising you to stop overnight in orisson its a very wise decision, firstly because you will be very tired from the uphill track and second because its a very nice way to start your Camino having dinner with your fellow pilgrims and getting to know your possible Camino family but most of all waking up in the mountains and sipping coffee watching the sun rise is an experience you won't forget .burn Camino

 

[Tony Murray]

My husband and I begin our pilgrimage from St Jean Pied de Port early September and are still undecided as to whether the 'wise' decision is to walk to Orisson then on the next day to Roncesvalles, or whether we're being a bit precious and should just have the long day. We'd love to hear advice from some who know better than us Thank you.

Dear KerryW, I have the same dilemma. I am flying to Biarritz from Dublin and getting a taxi/minibus to SJDP with Express Bourricot. I should arrive mid afternoon. I will then walk to Orisson (about 3 hours). This will save time on Day 2 and give me a head start and a less than gentle introduction to what faces me for the coming days. I would advise you to book Orisson as it is small and you do not want to arrive and find it full. Hope this helps. BC

 

[Kanga]

There is another alternative, one that existed before the Orisson gite was built, and that is to stay at Ferme Ithurbia, Huntto. It is only about 5 kilometres from SJPDP, but all steeply uphill, and for me it breaks the back of the stage to Roncesvalles.

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

My husband and I begin our pilgrimage from St Jean Pied de Port early September and are still undecided as to whether the 'wise' decision is to walk to Orisson then on the next day to Roncesvalles, or whether we're being a bit precious and should just have the long day. We'd love to hear advice from some who know better than us Thank you.

I found my answers on this youtube video;

 

[Phoenix]

I realize this is an older thread, but for those reading it now trying to make a decision: it really depends on what you want going into it. Want to get one of the toughest days behind you and move forward? Or, do you want to savor what may be the only time you see the beauty of/walk a portion of the Pyrenees?

The first time (winter 2014), my friend and I took the Valcarlos route because we didn't have a choice. We were caught up in a snowstorm an hour or so after Valcarlos and arrived so late that other pilgrims we had interacted with during the day were concerned for our safety. As we arrived, several of them were preparing to call the authorities to look for us. It was a very trying/tiring day.

The second time (Sept 2016), my 23 yr-old son, fresh off five years in the Infantry, treated the Napoleon route as a challenge--an Infantry ruck/hump. I wanted to savor the day taking in the sights/taking photos, but it was more important to keep up with him. So, noses to the grindstone, up we went as quickly as possible all the way to Roncesvalles. It seems as though all I have are flash memories of that day.

This next time (Sept 2018), I am going solo. I aim to saunter, admire the views, take several photos along the way, and interact with other pilgrims. Therefore, I have made a reservation at Orrison. In addition to all the favorable reasons to stop at Orrison mentioned in this thread, an additional one is that I would like to arrive at Roncesvalles early enough the next day as to not have to sleep in the basement for the third time.

Whichever way you may choose, I wish you, Buen Camino!

 

[Shalaw]

I know this is an old thread, but in case anyone is looking for advise, I thought I would add my 2 cents. I would say that the first day from SJPdP to Roncesvalles is extremely difficult. For those wanting to start slow, I would recommend starting at SJPdP mid-morning and then staying at Orrison and then make day two Orrison to Roncesvalles. Or, if you're going all the way in one day, consider sending your pack ahead and just carry a few snacks and some water in a day-pack. I know it's so exciting to finally get going our Caminos, but it's so important to be realistic about our fitness levels and to walk accordingly.

Buen Camino!!

 

[Kanga]

I do hope people realise that the Napoleon route is a modern variant and not the traditional route taken by the medieval pilgrims. It is through Valcarlos. And the route through Valcarlos is lovely.

 

[John McEvoy]

I did the Camino last August and stopped at Orrisson and I am very glad I did after experiencing what comes at you on the second day. I am 66 and I think I could have done the trek all the way to Roncevalles however I would have ruined the trip right out of the box.

I met some wonderful people at Orrisson and will be friends with them for the rest of my life.

you can make a reservation at Orrisson but I understand going with the flow.

Just so you know, as you continue after Orrisson in the Pyrenees, it will be evident early on the mountain you have to cross and go over the top. Mentally I became gassed because I thought that was the only mountain to go over, so when I did I thought the hard part was over (except for the decent, research told me that would be hard). You will find out that there are three more mountains to cross. Mentally that was very difficult.

the final descent is very very difficult.

buen camino

 

[John McEvoy]

There aren't many big hills where I live .... would stairmaster at the gym be a workout similar to climbing the Pyrennes??

sorry but not even close

 

[Scarlet Fez]

If you chose to stay at the Orrison and like many and have broken yourself in gently there is no reason that you have to stay at Roncesvalles, some of us were feeling good and there were crowds waiting for beds so we pushed on at a very leisurely pace for 6ks to Espinal and stayed there. Lovely new accomadation. The benefit in the morning was that we were 6ks ahead of the pack. We again walked steady and found ourselves for many days at mid stages accomadation. Yes it was nice to eat with many at the Orrison but don't worry about joining a Camino Family to early, I never saw many I met at the Orrison again the whole Camino ad I am not a fast and particular long stage walker. It will take a few days if not longer before folk who walk the same pace or distances end up staying in the same villages or towns. Camino family groups will happen and it is nice, but do not let those in these groups dictate your Camino experience as some will try and cling onto you like a comfort blanket. After a while where ever you stay you will see loads of familiar faces and everyone welcomes everyone. I would even say it is hard to be solitary as some may like it as 'the moving Community' will unlikely allow someone to eat or drink on their own, even if there is no common language.
My advise for your Camino is 'go with the flow', unless you are going peak season, don't book ahead. Some of the best places I stayed in for atmosphere and great company were not maybe the most best equipped were almost found by accident or 'last chance saloons'.
You will be amazed by the people you meet and talk to, as for a Camino Family it's not a requirement, but it will just happen. I was over half way when I stumbled into mine.
Buen Camino

 

[batty]

Hi, I always stop at Orrison (make a booking), or at the albergue in Valcarlos, on the other route. It doesn’t matter how fit I am, I see no point walking 28 kms (mostly uphill) on the very first day when it’s possible to split the day into two, and start off slowly. Jill

Could you please tell me about taking the Valcarlos route, how far is it from SJJP.

 

[Debora]

In my opinion, stay in Orisson. It's worth the views and the experience...and you will be sleeping in the Pyrenees - quite an experience.

 

[Bradypus]

Could you please tell me about taking the Valcarlos route, how far is it from SJJP.

23.4km via Valcarlos according to Gronze. I've walked that route twice and that feels about right. Detailed route description and information about accommodation on the Gronze website: https://www.gronze.com/etapa/saint-jean-pied-port/valcarlos/roncesvalles/recorrido