My Experience on the Invierno

[Fares Ismail]

This post is long overdue.
I finished my Camino in Muxia on September 6th after starting in sjpdp and everyday since I've said I need to write this post. But I guess the moment I got back home, I got distracted with the million little things you don't have to worry about on the Camino.
Ill try to keep this short and simple.


TL;DR section will be here in bold:

1. My favorite section of my Camino.
2. Invierno people love dogs, some don't really like to chain them but they're all bark and no bite
3. Very very well marked, sometimes the markings are redundant (reminds me of the french way)
4. Bars are not as common. A lot of fountains were dry. Carrying 1.5L and some food is advised.
5. The kindness and generosity of the people on the Invierno never ceased to amaze me.
6. The Invierno is a solitary Camino but It makes for a wonderful experience.

On day one in saint jean, I had this little notebook where I wrote stuff on... and I remember writing that the best part of my day is the people I meet. This was also the reason why I was worried about walking the Invierno.
I was also worried about the lack of physical guidebook... There is one pdf guide on the forum resources section, but I told myself that 39 pages cant possibly be enough...

Starting Leon and maybe Astorga, the number of pilgrims started to increase drastically. Not really a bad thing but I began appreciating the idea of a more solitary Camino.

And so in Ponferrada, after Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolás de Flüe to the right, I visited a hut for the amigos del Camino de Santiago. I went looking for some resources that might perhaps help me even more. The man was extremely helpful. He showed me the guidebook thats on this forum and told me it was pretty much all I needed.
He was right.

And so the next day I switched to the Camino de Invierno. One of the best decisions Ive taken! when people ask me what was my favorite section on the Camino, the Invierno is the obvious choice.
Switching to the Invierno is very easy and straightforward. after Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolás de Flüe, take your first left (200m after the alburge), cross the first pedestrian "bridge" and then cross the old bridge and mojons and arrows will guide you from here.
The guidebook usually tells you where to go left and right... but I found that the road was very very well marked and that some of the details in the guide were perhaps not necessary.

I chose the 9 days plan. but other who might have more time than I did can do the Camino in 10-12 days or ever shorter days (the guidebook does a really good job at detailing all those info)

Day One: Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Fluorez

Long day. 2 climbs one to the Castillo de Cornatel and the other to Las Medulas.
The Castillo entry is 2 euros. no free entrance for pilgrims but it is really worth seeing. the view from above is spectacular. some people also opt to skip that part due to the climb up.

After the castle, in Borrenes, Bar Casa Marisol offers meals. It was the first bar that was open starting Ponferrada. The bar owner was so nice, she even packed me a small snack for later on the road.

Dogs on that day were particularly many! Some were not chained. the most remarkable dog was in Villavieja. That dog (horse?) stood in the middle of the street and started barking. unchained. I stood there for a good 3 min waiting. eventually I started taking small steps and passed right by him. This trick worked every time! you might also need to tap both sticks with one another to scare the dog off a little bit.

I might talk a lot about dogs but that's because they terrify me (or at least used to). I don't think anyone should take a different Camino due to a fear of dogs because they're really not a problem!

People along the road were so generous and always willing to help, fill up your bottle of water or even offer some snacks! often without me even asking!!

In Las Medulas theres a nice ice cream place, the owner and her son were really helpful! and the ice cream was pretty refreshing. I kind of developed an obsession with ice cream on the Camino.

In Puente de Domingo, I stayed in La Torre, a nice hostel with comfortable rooms with private showers. 18 euros pilgrim price (not 20). I wanted to try the menu del peregrino, but my "short nap" turned into an overnight sleep :/
Breakfast the other day was simple but good.


I might have been wrong about this being short and simple :/
Ill try to post the rest as soon as possible

 

[Bradypus]

I was also worried about the lack of physical guidebook... There is one pdf guide on the forum resources section, but I told myself that 39 pages cant possibly be enough...

A couple of days ago I came across my 1991 Confraternity of St James guide to the Camino Frances. It covered the whole Camino Frances in just 39 pages of A5 typescript. They say that size isn't everything....

 

[Sheffield James]

This post is long overdue.
I finished my Camino in Muxia on September 6th after starting in sjpdp and everyday since I've said I need to write this post. But I guess the moment I got back home, I got distracted with the million little things you don't have to worry about on the Camino.
Ill try to keep this short and simple.


TL;DR section will be here in bold:

1. My favorite section of my Camino.
2. Invierno people love dogs, some don't really like to chain them but they're all bark and no bite
3. Very very well marked, sometimes the markings are redundant (reminds me of the french way)
4. Bars are not as common. A lot of fountains were dry. Carrying 1.5L and some food is advised.
5. The kindness and generosity of the people on the Invierno never ceased to amaze me.
6. The Invierno is a solitary Camino but It makes for a wonderful experience.

On day one in saint jean, I had this little notebook where I wrote stuff on... and I remember writing that the best part of my day is the people I meet. This was also the reason why I was worried about walking the Invierno.
I was also worried about the lack of physical guidebook... There is one pdf guide on the forum resources section, but I told myself that 39 pages cant possibly be enough...

Starting Leon and maybe Astorga, the number of pilgrims started to increase drastically. Not really a bad thing but I began appreciating the idea of a more solitary Camino.

And so in Ponferrada, after Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolás de Flüe to the right, I visited a hut for the amigos del Camino de Santiago. I went looking for some resources that might perhaps help me even more. The man was extremely helpful. He showed me the guidebook thats on this forum and told me it was pretty much all I needed.
He was right.

And so the next day I switched to the Camino de Invierno. One of the best decisions Ive taken! when people ask me what was my favorite section on the Camino, the Invierno is the obvious choice.
Switching to the Invierno is very easy and straightforward. after Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolás de Flüe, take your first left (200m after the alburge), cross the first pedestrian "bridge" and then cross the old bridge and mojons and arrows will guide you from here.
The guidebook usually tells you where to go left and right... but I found that the road was very very well marked and that some of the details in the guide were perhaps not necessary.

I chose the 9 days plan. but other who might have more time than I did can do the Camino in 10-12 days or ever shorter days (the guidebook does a really good job at detailing all those info)

Day One: Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Fluorez

Long day. 2 climbs one to the Castillo de Cornatel and the other to Las Medulas.
The Castillo entry is 2 euros. no free entrance for pilgrims but it is really worth seeing. the view from above is spectacular. some people also opt to skip that part due to the climb up.

After the castle, in Borrenes, Bar Casa Marisol offers meals. It was the first bar that was open starting Ponferrada. The bar owner was so nice, she even packed me a small snack for later on the road.

Dogs on that day were particularly many! Some were not chained. the most remarkable dog was in Villavieja. That dog (horse?) stood in the middle of the street and started barking. unchained. I stood there for a good 3 min waiting. eventually I started taking small steps and passed right by him. This trick worked every time! you might also need to tap both sticks with one another to scare the dog off a little bit.

I might talk a lot about dogs but that's because they terrify me (or at least used to). I don't think anyone should take a different Camino due to a fear of dogs because they're really not a problem!

People along the road were so generous and always willing to help, fill up your bottle of water or even offer some snacks! often without me even asking!!

In Las Medulas theres a nice ice cream place, the owner and her son were really helpful! and the ice cream was pretty refreshing. I kind of developed an obsession with ice cream on the Camino.

In Puente de Domingo, I stayed in La Torre, a nice hostel with comfortable rooms with private showers. 18 euros pilgrim price (not 20). I wanted to try the menu del peregrino, but my "short nap" turned into an overnight sleep :/
Breakfast the other day was simple but good.


I might have been wrong about this being short and simple :/
Ill try to post the rest as soon as possible

Thanks very much for the post. I'm sure it will be very helpful to people considering this wonderful route.

On a minor note, I am surprised you got as far as Borrenes before you found an open bar...unless, that is, you began on a Sunday or started very early in the morning. On my last CI in May '17, I had the good fortune to have two café bar stops before arriving in B.

 

[peregrina2000]

the most remarkable dog was in Villavieja. That dog (horse?) stood in the middle of the street and started barking. unchained. I stood there for a good 3 min waiting. eventually I started taking small steps and passed right by him. This trick worked every time! you might also need to tap both sticks with one another to scare the dog off a little bit.

I might talk a lot about dogs but that's because they terrify me (or at least used to). I don't think anyone should take a different Camino due to a fear of dogs because they're really not a problem!

Thanks for the updates! I will be paying attention to details for the guide (like the pilgrim price in Puente Domingo Flórez )

But the dogs.... This one dog is the same dog whose owner is totally indifferent to the fact that his dog is terrorizing people. This has been going on for years and years. At least the many posts should alert people to the fact that the dog has not yet bitten anyone. The last time I walked through, I met the owner of the Casa Rural, who is also renovating a nearby house for another casa rural. He told me that the dog is a huge problem for him because he rents his house out to families with children. The dog owner just doesn´t care. But the guy working on the renovations told me that a legal denuncia (complaint) would be possible, just that it would make his life with this guy as a neighbor "complicado.") So nothing happens. I will send another note to Asún and the Association to see if anyone there wants to take up the cause.

I know that at least one peregrina stopped her Invierno because of the dog, but many more have come to terms with it. I usually just stop walking when I see a barking dog and let it keep barking while I should "oiga" till someone appears, but the last time I walked the Invierno, I did muster up the courage to pass by a couple of unchained barking dogs, so I guess it's a matter of practice and confidence. I just keep thinking the words of one very wise peregrina who walked alone several years ago.

I encountered so many loose dogs and very nearly gave up due to a fear that was becoming irrational. I finally, on day 3, talked myself through the facts: these dogs are here to guard cows/sheep/property. If I am not threatening the cows/sheep/property, then they will not attack me. No farmer would let a human-killer dog run free. So I started to talk to each dog and told them what a good job they were doing protecting their cows/sheep/property and my fear left me. By the end I felt like the dog whisperer. I read on the forum that someone gave up several days in because of the dogs. It isn't necessary. They are intimidating, but they are not trained to attack innocent people walking down the road. So, perhaps a reminder about that would be helpful.

We have put tose comments in the guide, but I know that many people are still reluctant to walk the Invierno because of the loose dogs. And that is a shame.

 

[Charrito]

Thanks very much for the post. I'm sure it will be very helpful to people considering this wonderful route.

On a minor note, I am surprised you got as far as Borrenes before you found an open bar...unless, that is, you began on a Sunday or started very early in the morning. On my last CI in May '17, I had the good fortune to have two café bar stops before arriving in B.

If you read my posts on the two 'Inviernos' that I have done, you will see the same.

 

[Charrito]

Thanks for the updates! I will be paying attention to details for the guide (like the pilgrim price in Puente Domingo Flórez )

But the dogs.... This one dog is the same dog whose owner is totally indifferent to the fact that his dog is terrorizing people. This has been going on for years and years. At least the many posts should alert people to the fact that the dog has not yet bitten anyone. The last time I walked through, I met the owner of the Casa Rural, who is also renovating a nearby house for another casa rural. He told me that the dog is a huge problem for him because he rents his house out to families with children. The dog owner just doesn´t care. But the guy working on the renovations told me that a legal denuncia (complaint) would be possible, just that it would make his life with this guy as a neighbor "complicado.") So nothing happens. I will send another note to Asún and the Association to see if anyone there wants to take up the cause.

I know that at least one peregrina stopped her Invierno because of the dog, but many more have come to terms with it. I usually just stop walking when I see a barking dog and let it keep barking while I should "oiga" till someone appears, but the last time I walked the Invierno, I did muster up the courage to pass by a couple of unchained barking dogs, so I guess it's a matter of practice and confidence. I just keep thinking the words of one very wise peregrina who walked alone several years ago.

I encountered so many loose dogs and very nearly gave up due to a fear that was becoming irrational. I finally, on day 3, talked myself through the facts: these dogs are here to guard cows/sheep/property. If I am not threatening the cows/sheep/property, then they will not attack me. No farmer would let a human-killer dog run free. So I started to talk to each dog and told them what a good job they were doing protecting their cows/sheep/property and my fear left me. By the end I felt like the dog whisperer. I read on the forum that someone gave up several days in because of the dogs. It isn't necessary. They are intimidating, but they are not trained to attack innocent people walking down the road. So, perhaps a reminder about that would be helpful.

We have put tose comments in the guide, but I know that many people are still reluctant to walk the Invierno because of the loose dogs. And that is a shame.

Sorry, but all this about dogs on the Invierno is simply NOT TRUE! There are dogs everywhere, but not zillions of them on the Invierno.

 

[KinkyOne]

Sorry, but all this about dogs on the Invierno is simply NOT TRUE! There are dogs everywhere, but not zillions of them on the Invierno.

Quite agree with that. I only really remember the above mentioned big dog (something like a mastiff) in Villavieja.

And we have very much the same experience about opened bars on Invierno

 

[martin1ws]

Thanks for your post about the Invierno.

...And so the next day I switched to the Camino de Invierno. One of the best decisions Ive taken! when people ask me what was my favorite section on the Camino, the Invierno is the obvious choice.
...

This sounds great!

Now I have to wait "only" for about 11 months until I hopefully can try the Invierno by myself...
at the moment I fear my too little Spanish knowledge more than the dogs... but there is plenty of time left for learning.

 

[peregrina2000]

Sorry, but all this about dogs on the Invierno is simply NOT TRUE! There are dogs everywhere, but not zillions of them on the Invierno.

I don't want to fight about the dog issue, but saying it is "NOT TRUE" is simply NOT TRUE.
@KinkyOne and @Charrito, you may not have encountered a lot of loose dogs, but others have. We aren't making it up. I have walked many different caminos, some remote and some well-traveled, and there were more loose dogs on the Invierno than on any camino I have ever walked. Maybe I was unlucky on the Invierno and lucky on the Olvidado, Castellano-Aragonés, Levante, Ebro, etc etc, but I had to deal with it a lot. No one is saying there are zillions of them, but for people with dog phobias, I think this information is important and relevant. I mainly got over it (though I still get nervous, and if the dog is big enough I just won't move till someone comes); many pilgrims get over it; but it was a challenge for me and might be a challenge for others.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ting-to-bite-at-villaviaja.48889/#post-527831

Looking forward to hearing about the next days of your walk @Fares Ismail !

 

[domigee]

People who aren't scared of dogs don't get this!

 

[KinkyOne]

People who aren't scared of dogs don't get this!

True!
I'm not really scared by dogs but I did had an experience with a whole bunch of them at the same time (7-8) on Fisterra Epilogue for example and that's why I wrote Invierno is almost loose-dogs-free Camino.
Apart from this one in Villavieja obviously. But as already mentioned (very good advice!!!) these dogs aren't there to bite/kill pilgrims but to defend what's their. And just slowly walking by, talking in low voice and not looking at their eyes does the trick. Clinking (clacking???) of the walking poles might help as well.

 

[CaminoDebrita]

I've read enough comments from enough walkers of Invierno to know that I can't walk this route alone. One large threatening Mastiff that has caught attention of that many walkers is one too many.

 

[SabsP]

I've read enough comments from enough walkers of Invierno to know that I can't walk this route alone. One large threatening Mastiff that has caught attention of that many walkers is one too many.

Ok let us join forces. I do not mind dogs ( birds, now that is another situation really ) but can't see myself walking the Invierno on my own...
I love reading about the Invierno, San Salvador and Vadiniense but am a bit apprehensive to tackle them alone because of the longer distances between villages etc...

 

[CaminoDebrita]

We will!

 

[Fares Ismail]

Peunte de Domingo Fluorez to a Rua

Had breakfast in Bar Mar. Turns out the owner of the bar in Borrones's sister ran Bar Mar. She was expecting me and told me that her sister had told her a pilgrim will be passing by!

In a Rua, I stayed in Hostal Niza. for 20 euros, I had a nice room with a big bed. bathrooms and showers were in a different room.
the owner of the Hostal and her family all speak a bit of french and they were happy to practice the language with me
I had dinner in Mesón O Toño. Pulpo (being in Galicia and all ) and Almejas were both were good!

@martin1ws mentioned learning Spanish. It is not necessary to know Spanish to walk the Invierno, you will be able to communicate with hand sings and a few very very basic Spanish words. However, my biggest (maybe only?) regret on the Camino is not learning more Spanish before traveling. I was able to get by with the basic Spanish I knew and knowing French and Arabic helped me understand more as a lot of words are similar, but I could not hold a real conversation with someone. Im not talking about small talk, I mean an actual real conversation. For my next camino, Ill make sure to improve my Spanish before starting my walk as I dont want to miss out on possible interesting conversations with the locals!

 

[Fares Ismail]

A Rua to Quiroga

The guidebook mentions a possibility of missing a tunnel leaving A Rua, I think new signs and arrows have been added to make sure people dont.

The walk till now is always interesting because you'd often find yourself walking side by side Rio Sil or climbing a mountain that overlooks a amazing scenery (sometimes including Rio Sil).

Along the way, I passed by Montefurado. its a small village but for some reason it really stuck in my mind. I remember spending a long time there sitting though I was not tired
Theres a fountain next to the church along the way.

Quiroga.

I stopped at a bar before Quiroga and I was told that theres a motorcycle rally (or gathering) in Quiroga starting 7 pm.
I did not think much of it until I got to Quirago and saw a couple hundred motorcycles parked and the main road was closed and people were gathered next to the road cheering for certain teams.

By that time I was a bit tired to I decided to look for accommodation before joining the crowds... unfortunately I could not find any. All the hostels were full. (all the bars were also full )
I waited till 8 pm for the reception of the municipal albergue to open and the sweet old lady in charge tried to convince me not to stay at the albergue. I explained to her that the other hostels were all full and that this was my only option left. She told me that it will be very noisy as the party and motorcycle show would all be happening facing the albergue. I told her I did not mind.
I did not expect they'd be playing music really loud up until 3 or 4 am :/

Im sure Quiroga is a lovely town. But I think I was there on the wrong time

 

[Ribeirasacra]

Re dogs maybe some one should watch Caesar and how he handles dogs.
Having lived in Galicia for more years that I care to mention I cannot recall reading of dog attacks, especially from farm dogs.
Please do a search using the following "ataques de perros galicia". That will show you just how big a problem dog attacks are in Galicia.

 

[Fares Ismail]

Quiroga to Monforte de Lemos

I remember that it was a long day.
I had a nice nap next to the dam in Pobra do Brollon.
I also remember the way leaving pobra. just before monforte along the green fields, theres a farm. the way there was waterlogged as mentioned in the guide.
the moment you enter the outskirts of Monforte de Lemos, the arrows disappear. As is the case in most major towns aling the camino.
Finding my was interesting. I asked people in bars which way to the center of the town, and before they gave me an asnwer, they'd insist I sit down and have a drink with them and tell them all about my Camino!
I cant stress how surprising the kindness and generosity of the people I met along the camino was!

In Monforte, I tried staying in Hostal Medievo but it turned out to be full (its a small hostal so a reservations are recommended). The hostal I ended up staying at was Hostal Duquesa. Its a nice hostal but it is a bit far from the old town, or perhaps I was a too tired to walk back to the old town. The hostal is in a nightclub area but no noise can be heard



Monforte de Lemos to Chantada

Most of today seems simple, until you reach Sobrado.
then a very steep descent begins. One of the few times I was glad I had my walking sticks with me. The descent was on broken pavement. Could be a bit slippery or tricky.

The view from below is magnificent! theres one restaurant/bar along the river. when I got there, they were closing for siesta but they were more than happy to serve me a verano before that.
For some reason I really become fond of tintos de verano <3

The climb back up to Chantada is not the easiest to say the least
But I was lucky that there was a festival going on when I got there. Yess that includes all attractions and popcorn!!
but because of the festival, all the bars had closed the kitchens early (I assume its because of the festival but truth be told I could never figure out the modus vivendi of the bars along the camino as well as fully understand how siesta works )
I looked for a while and all the bars that were open were only serving jamon tapas. Until I met a group of college students and they suggested I visit a restaurant nearby, they said it might still be open.
When I got there, the restaurant was called Lucas which was surprising since I've read it has shut down. Nevertheless, they served food (other than jamos and Bocadillos) so I was glad to try it.
The food was really good! I had fish and almejas in some spicy sauce. The owners were really welcoming. I can see why the restaurant receives unanimous praise.

 

[Fares Ismail]

Chantada to Rodeiro

I usually look at elevation maps every night to get an idea of what next day will look like.
One thing stands out on that day. Alto de Faro. the elevation map shows a huge mountain between Rodeiro and Chantada.

But the reality did not match my fears or worries. The climb to the top of alto de faro was not exhausting. I do not recommend anyone skips that section!

Just before the top in Penasillas, theres a bar with very welcoming owners!
That day it was raining like crazy and I met a dog ( a big one) but he was not barking or anything, he just came and sat next to me in the shade and watched me eat my brunch (I have attached a pic of the dog because I really liked him: https://photos.app.goo.gl/PBhDlXPFrefSU4VH2)

the only sleep section was the climb to Ermita de Nosa Señora do Monte do Faro (for only a couple hundred meters) ull know you should leave the camino and go offroad when you see a really steep climb filled with decorated crosses.

You might be able to see all of Galicias region from that spot but on that day all I could see was white fog surrounding me. Not that its a bad thing

after the Ermita, arrows take u to the camino. but before beginning the descent, I recommend you take another short walk further to the tower and glass room facing the Ermitta. (Ive attached some pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dwaiaGT7XWBxSRv43 + the view from the tower looking over the Ermita https://photos.app.goo.gl/7uSNh3RkzzPK64md2)
I met the man who sits in the tower and he explained its a weather station where they watch for fire incidents and such... (I might not be 100% certain on its function because my limited Spanish could have deceived me :/ )


The climb down from the top is simple. But be careful, almost all the mojones flipped over (im assuming its because of the wind) keep a watchful eye and don't worry too much its a simple road (no forks) and there are some arrows along the way.

Along the way you pass by a field of giant windmills.

In Rodeiro, I stayed in Hospedaxe O Guerra. a single room for 20 euros (though I dont remember much about the room other than that it was good). Pilgrim menu is recommended! though they did not cook Caldo Gallego on that day, the vegie soup was also very good! and so was the home made Tarta de Santiago (though my favorite thing about this dessert is its name )

 

[Ribeirasacra]

Most of today seems simple, until you reach Sobrado.
then a very steep descent begins. One of the few times I was glad I had my walking sticks with me. The descent was on broken pavement. Could be a bit slippery or tricky.

The view from below is magnificent! theres one restaurant/bar along the river. when I got there, they were closing for siesta but they were more than happy to serve me a verano before that.
For some reason I really become fond of tintos de verano <3

Sobrado. I do not recall a village of that name. The start of the path down to Belesar is at Diomondi. That is an old Roman road and yes those century old paving stones can be slippery. The bar in Belesar alongside the river (Abaceria O Batuxo) I did not realize it closes midday. I will check next time I pass by to check opening hours.

When I got there, the restaurant was called Lucas which was surprising since I've read it has shut down. Nevertheless, they served food (other than jamos and Bocadillos) so I was glad to try it.

The information about the closure and then reopening has been posted on this forum. The original owners took late retirement, however they still own the building. The restaurant has been taken over by some younger folks.

It is important that one tries to plan a route around festival days. During the week you was in Chantada they also hold Festa da Empanada. That day The town is really deserted.

Any more updates?

 

[peregrina2000]

Just to say that I am starting to collect information for the 2018 forum guide to the Invierno. The 2017 version is available in Resources (I know that most of you dear forum members know this, so excuse my repetition). https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-de-invierno-2017-edition.535/

So far, I have these notes from Fares, some scattered comments from Ribeirasacra and others, and the lengthy comments of Goran (sent to me via email). Am I missing others? I will scroll through all of this year's Invierno posts so you do not have to alert me to those, but if you have comments that you have been holding back about your experience on the Invierno, please do tell all!!! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Charrito]

I will carry out my promise (or threat) that I would be back here to help, Laurie! A few things to add to your wonderful guide again.