Cf April - Misc Questions Easter, Etc

[peregrina206]

Hello Fellow Pilgrims! It has been 16 years since I completed my camino. It seems like that was in ancient dinosaur times...pre smart phone, etc. LOL. Glad to find this forum though for help on the current state. I can only do a portion during vacation and plan April 10 to 21 starting in Pamplona.

I realized that I will be on the camino for Easter! So am excited but also, should I be worried about reservations at the albergues or maybe other issues [like things being closed]? Does anyone have advice, or information on what not to miss?! Or things to do, customs to follow?

I would like to stay in Uterga or Obanos my first night, depending how I feel. I have also marked the following towns [if you have advice about where to stay, I'd appreciate it]: Cirauqui, Estella, Villamayor de Monjardin, Torres del Rio/Viana, Ventosa, Azofra, Santo Domingo de la Calzada/Granon, Belorado/Tosantos.

Also, I was thinking of going off track for a bit to stop at Eunate to see the monastary there. Is it worth it?

Thanks so much and look forward to here your advice! Buen Camino y Ultreia!

 

[Kanga]

Welcome back @peregrina206 - how have you stayed away so long? I do not book - just walk until I find a place that I'd like to stay. At this time of the year, even though Easter, there should be plenty of available accommodation. Nearer to Santiago it would be different.

The path is still the same - but far more choice about the level of comfort. Far more services available (pack carrying is the really noticeable one), and much more choice of accommodation.

Of the towns you have listed, I usually walk through Villamajor de Montjardin and go on to Los Arcos; there is not much at Villamajor, I love the church at Los Arcos, and the local bar rocks! A long walk but ending with pleasure for the soul and the senses. I also like to stay at Navarette, not Ventosa, and always visit the church and put a €1 in the box to turn on the light over one of the best retablos on the Francés. I can't believe that people miss it!

Buen camino!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I would like to stay in Uterga or Obanos my first night, depending how I feel.

Also, I was thinking of going off track for a bit to stop at Eunate to see the monastary there. Is it worth it?

Both Uterga and Eunate are worth a visit. There are two albergues in Uterga now, across from each other. The established one has great food. Eunate is not always open. Search the internet for information on the hours that it is open. There is no albergue there these days.

 

[notion900]

Re Easter: the main thing to note about Spanish Easter is that it's not really a long weekend like it is in Northern Europe. In Spain Easter is the whole week before Easter, called Semana Santa. Thursday and Friday are public holidays almost everywhere in Spain, and the Monday only in some places. This is a useful resource on Wikipedia.

I have only experienced it in Andalucía and it's pretty crazy there: the whole of Semana Santa, in somewhere like Córdoba, there will be something going on, processions and marching bands every afternoon and evening of the week, and around the clock Thursday morning to Friday night, and the processions are sombre on Good Friday. Saturday and Sunday are actually a bit quieter: there is one procession Saturday and I think people just go to church Sunday. Nothing happens on Monday, it seems (probably everyone is exhausted).

Can someone answer about how big a festivity Easter is in the North of Spain as I don't know?

As far as I have observed it, restaurants and bars do not close on the public holidays, but supermarkets in small towns might, and places like banks and the post office definitely will. In places in the south where the processions are celebrated big-time, the rooms will book out weeks ahead (I booked a room last week in Seville as I arrive Good Friday). Prices can also be raised. How this impacts on the French Way I don't exactly know, someone else can help out here. I have given the general picture.

 

[peregrina206]

Welcome back @peregrina206 - how have you stayed away so long? I do not book - just walk until I find a place that I'd like to stay. At this time of the year, even though Easter, there should be plenty of available accommodation. Nearer to Santiago it would be different.

The path is still the same - but far more choice about the level of comfort. Far more services available (pack carrying is the really noticeable one), and much more choice of accommodation.

Of the towns you have listed, I usually walk through Villamajor de Montjardin and go on to Los Arcos; there is not much at Villamajor, I love the church at Los Arcos, and the local bar rocks! A long walk but ending with pleasure for the soul and the senses. I also like to stay at Navarette, not Ventosa, and always visit the church and put a €1 in the box to turn on the light over one of the best retablos on the Francés. I can't believe that people miss it!

Buen camino!

Thank you!

 

[peregrina206]

Re Easter: the main thing to note about Spanish Easter is that it's not really a long weekend like it is in Northern Europe. In Spain Easter is the whole week before Easter, called Semana Santa. Thursday and Friday are public holidays almost everywhere in Spain, and the Monday only in some places. This is a useful resource on Wikipedia.

I have only experienced it in Andalucía and it's pretty crazy there: the whole of Semana Santa, in somewhere like Córdoba, there will be something going on, processions and marching bands every afternoon and evening of the week, and around the clock Thursday morning to Friday night, and the processions are sombre on Good Friday. Saturday and Sunday are actually a bit quieter: there is one procession Saturday and I think people just go to church Sunday. Nothing happens on Monday, it seems (probably everyone is exhausted).

Can someone answer about how big a festivity Easter is in the North of Spain as I don't know?

As far as I have observed it, restaurants and bars do not close on the public holidays, but supermarkets in small towns might, and places like banks and the post office definitely will. In places in the south where the processions are celebrated big-time, the rooms will book out weeks ahead (I booked a room last week in Seville as I arrive Good Friday). Prices can also be raised. How this impacts on the French Way I don't exactly know, someone else can help out here. I have given the general picture.

Thank you @notion900! Very good information to think on.

 

[peregrina206]

Both Uterga and Eunate are worth a visit. There are two albergues in Uterga now, across from each other. The established one has great food. Eunate is not always open. Search the internet for information on the hours that it is open. There is no albergue there these days.

Thank you! Good to know they are not always open. I did not know. Good to know where the good food is too!

 

[Kanga]

@peregrina206 we were on the Camino at Easter one year, and there were festivities, but it did not seem to impact on accommodation. It may have been different after Sarría, when there would be people taking the time to walk to SDC to get a Compostela.

We reached Portomarin on Easter Sunday, and did find it curious that Portomarin celebrates Easter Sunday by having a fiesta dedicated to Aguadente - the locally made firewater. The plaza was packed with stalls, each with samples of differently flavoured hooch.

 

[peregrina206]

Welcome back @peregrina206 - how have you stayed away so long? I do not book - just walk until I find a place that I'd like to stay. At this time of the year, even though Easter, there should be plenty of available accommodation. Nearer to Santiago it would be different.

The path is still the same - but far more choice about the level of comfort. Far more services available (pack carrying is the really noticeable one), and much more choice of accommodation.

Of the towns you have listed, I usually walk through Villamajor de Montjardin and go on to Los Arcos; there is not much at Villamajor, I love the church at Los Arcos, and the local bar rocks! A long walk but ending with pleasure for the soul and the senses. I also like to stay at Navarette, not Ventosa, and always visit the church and put a €1 in the box to turn on the light over one of the best retablos on the Francés. I can't believe that people miss it!

Buen camino!

Time, money and opportunity kept me away. And a few health issues. I made a promise to go back and so here I am! I remember Los Arcos now. Thank you for the reminder.

 

[peregrina206]

@peregrina206 we were on the Camino at Easter one year, and there were festivities, but it did not seem to impact on accommodation. It may have been different after Sarría, when there would be people taking the time to walk to SDC to get a Compostela.

We reached Portomarin on Easter Sunday, and did find it curious that Portomarin celebrates Easter Sunday by having a fiesta dedicated to Aguadente - the locally made firewater. The plaza was packed with stalls, each with samples of differently flavoured hooch.

@Kanga I remember Portomarin very vividly! Crossing the bridge and seeing the old city submerged was fascinating. Also, I had a bad day, and when I arrived a fellow peregrino, Antonio, gave me a foot massage! His gift on the Camino! It was sooooo appreciated after a tough day! He massaged anyone who wanted/needed one.

 

[nycwalking]

Enjoy.

 

[mspath]

peregrina206,

What happy news that you will be on the camino once again!

Since you are starting from Uterga it is an easy, marked short side trip via Muruzábal to Santa Maria de Eunate. Do go. The chapel and location remain timeless. This site lists the current opening hours.

Sadly, the adjacent albergue is no longer open for pilgrims. However you can still obtain a stamp there and use the loo. I remember with pleasure the magical nights that I was able to share with other pilgrims during recent years when the albergue hosted.

Leaving Eunate there is no need to pass through Obanos to arrive at Puente La Reina. Simply walk along the verges of route N6064 until opposite Obanos and follow the yellow arrow to the left for an alternate path which crosses the river and farmland to arrive at Puente La Reina via the schoolyard and albergure of the Padres Reparadores.

Happy planning and Buen camino!

 

[HeidiL]

We always walk at Easter and I am happy to say that it's a Big Deal all over Spain, though the number of processions may vary with the size of the town. Burgos, for instance, has at least a dozen processions, plus a very moving Encuentro (Mary reunites with Jesus) right in front of the Cathedral.

Google Semana Santa and the name of the places you'll be passing through, and you'll have a looong list of processions, posed tableaux (people in costumes depicting scenes from the Bible or just the Easter story).

Please note that the funny-looking people are not Ku Klux Klan members, but Nazarenos - members of religious societies who take their favourite saint out for a street procession. Google "Nazarenos" in advance to avoid shock.

Tiny villages where there usually are five grannies left (OK, not on the Francés, there the grannies have been joined by their enterprising grandkids to make money on the pilgrims!) have lots of young people visiting, and we have come across several non-official bars that were open just because there were people in the village just then - good for hungry and thirsty pilgrims!

There are more Spanish people on the Camino at Easter, many albergues open for the season just at that time, so the workers are still fairly rested and the facilities often freshly painted.

In short: Easter on the Camino is great!

 

[mspath]

Both Uterga and Eunate are worth a visit. There are two albergues in Uterga now, across from each other. The established one has great food. Eunate is not always open. Search the internet for information on the hours that it is open. There is no albergue there these days.

This site lists the current hours for Eunate.--
http://santamariadeeunate.es/

 

[Silverton]

Hi Peregrina 206, and welcome back!
I may not have read the preceding messages fully, often my error. If you look at the eroski website www.consumer.es (very good camino info, in Spanish), you'll see details on all the albergues en route. For your first day, if you want to stay at Uterga or Obanos, I might suggest you 'whatsapp' the albergue--mobile numbers in Spain mostly begin with the digit 6 (not 9, which is the landline number). It seems that Juan Irisarri at the private Obanos Usda albergue (very good, I've stayed there) does not take reservations, but you might text him for info about availability. The Uterga hostel (I only know the one to the left of the path, the one with good meals etc, does take reservations 'before 3pm'. Other members have brought you up to date about visiting the lovely Eunate church, between Uterga and Obanos. If you can't find the mobile numbers for tose two albergues, you might check out this forum's pdf of 'all albergues' (or pm me, if you prefer).
I'll be starting a short camino with my son two weeks after you, also from Pamplona (for the fourth time).
Buen camino!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

An update on Eunate was just posted this morning:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/santa-maría-de-eunate-april-2017-update.46991/

 

[notion900]

Google Semana Santa and the name of the places you'll be passing through, and you'll have a looong list of processions, posed tableaux (people in costumes depicting scenes from the Bible or just the Easter story).

In short: Easter on the Camino is great!

Just to add that towns with big celebrations make a whole Semana Santa website. Here for example is the one from Seville. The daily timetables (itinerario) give the times and locations where the processions will pass. ['Madrugada' is the early hours of the morning.]
Each procession is put on by a parish or society and that is what the names at the tops of the lists signify.

I agree that it's absolutely great!

 

[peregrina206]

peregrina206,

What happy news that you will be on the camino once again!

Since you are starting from Uterga it is an easy, marked short side trip via Muruzábal to Santa Maria de Eunate. Do go. The chapel and location remain timeless. This site lists the current opening hours.

Sadly, the adjacent albergue is no longer open for pilgrims. However you can still obtain a stamp there and use the loo. I remember with pleasure the magical nights that I was able to share with other pilgrims during recent years when the albergue hosted.

Leaving Eunate there is no need to pass through Obanos to arrive at Puente La Reina. Simply walk along the verges of route N6064 until opposite Obanos and follow the yellow arrow to the left for an alternate path which crosses the river and farmland to arrive at Puente La Reina via the schoolyard and albergure of the Padres Reparadores.

Happy planning and Buen camino!

Thank you @mspath! The info on the alternate route is very helpful, much appreciated! Buen camino y ultreia!

 

[peregrina206]

Hi Peregrina 206, and welcome back!
I may not have read the preceding messages fully, often my error. If you look at the eroski website www.consumer.es (very good camino info, in Spanish), you'll see details on all the albergues en route. For your first day, if you want to stay at Uterga or Obanos, I might suggest you 'whatsapp' the albergue--mobile numbers in Spain mostly begin with the digit 6 (not 9, which is the landline number). It seems that Juan Irisarri at the private Obanos Usda albergue (very good, I've stayed there) does not take reservations, but you might text him for info about availability. The Uterga hostel (I only know the one to the left of the path, the one with good meals etc, does take reservations 'before 3pm'. Other members have brought you up to date about visiting the lovely Eunate church, between Uterga and Obanos. If you can't find the mobile numbers for tose two albergues, you might check out this forum's pdf of 'all albergues' (or pm me, if you prefer).
I'll be starting a short camino with my son two weeks after you, also from Pamplona (for the fourth time).
Buen camino!

Thank you @Silverton! And buen camino y ultreia to you as well! How did I get on without all this great intel? You all are great. [but I know in my heart, I don't have to use the web/internet, etc, and leave it to fate and it would still all work out great. ]

 

[peregrina206]

We always walk at Easter and I am happy to say that it's a Big Deal all over Spain, though the number of processions may vary with the size of the town. Burgos, for instance, has at least a dozen processions, plus a very moving Encuentro (Mary reunites with Jesus) right in front of the Cathedral.

Google Semana Santa and the name of the places you'll be passing through, and you'll have a looong list of processions, posed tableaux (people in costumes depicting scenes from the Bible or just the Easter story).

Please note that the funny-looking people are not Ku Klux Klan members, but Nazarenos - members of religious societies who take their favourite saint out for a street procession. Google "Nazarenos" in advance to avoid shock.

Tiny villages where there usually are five grannies left (OK, not on the Francés, there the grannies have been joined by their enterprising grandkids to make money on the pilgrims!) have lots of young people visiting, and we have come across several non-official bars that were open just because there were people in the village just then - good for hungry and thirsty pilgrims!

There are more Spanish people on the Camino at Easter, many albergues open for the season just at that time, so the workers are still fairly rested and the facilities often freshly painted.

In short: Easter on the Camino is great!

@HeidiL Thank you! I think this will be the best camino. For me anyway. Nice tip to google semana santa and the towns! Will do. Cheers and buen camino y ultreia...who knows, maybe we'll see each other on the way.

 

[peregrina206]

An update on Eunate was just posted this morning:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/santa-maría-de-eunate-april-2017-update.46991/

Thank you @Rick of Rick and Peg I will check it out. Buen camino y ultreia to you.

 

[Patrice Reed]

I am on Camino now, we had trouble in Estella getting a bed, but we are slow walkers and get in around 3:30. We tried reservations the next leg in Los Arcos and good thing because they where full last night. I couldnt get reservations in Viana, so I booked a Hotel in Logrona thru Hotel.com. however, if you walk fast and get into the Pilgrim village before 2, you should be ok.