31 October 2025
What a day! But first, the usual. Very quiet here today (although it is only 4 o'clock), just two peregrinas from Taiwan and my replacement, Valentín.
I got up at my usual 6:00 and, wonder of all wonders, all 8 pilgrims were gone by 7:45. So I decided to do some laundry after all so that I could set off on my Camino with clean clothes and Valentín can sleep in clean sheets. I did my laundry and had time to get to Plaza Mayor to meet Victor. Victor was traditionally dressed in a nice embroidered cape and carrying a drum and a sort of recorder with three holes that can be played with one hand while drumming. There were others with similar instruments and women in traditional, finely embroidered dresses. Victor also had a cardboard box with a dove inside, that he gave to me to carry.
After we had gathered enough, we set out from the Plaza Mayor, playing as we walked, to a nearby square, where music was played and traditional dances were danced. Other small musical groups joined us, and we marched back into the Plaza Mayor. Eventually, we were joined by Angel Rufino, "el Mariquelo", who was introduced as someone important. With him was another drummer and an accordionist. After a bit, Angel led the procession from Plaza Mayor to the Cathedral.
I didn't know who "el Mariquelo" was, and didn't find out until later, but I will share the information with you now as some context. From the Spanish Wikipedia:
As we approached the cathedral, Victor entrusted me to the care of the other drummer/assistant with Angel, and I was given a basket with a lid, as well as the cardboard box with the dove. Angel was wired with a microphone. We entered thr part of the cathedral where you can climb the tower. I had to transfer the dove, at this point, from its cardboard box, which had been taped shut, to the basket that I would have to hold shut.
You may recall that I didn't do the climb on the day I visited the cathedral because I decided it would be too stressful. Now I was going to do it carrying a basket with a live dove that I would have to hold shut. We climbed the usual tourist route accompanied by several photographers and videographers, making several stops for photos and do that the Mariquelo could address the crowd. Then we went beyond where the tourists go. At this point, the photographers and videographers were left behind. It was the Mariquelo, his assistant, the accordionist, two local police officers, someone from the cathedral who was unlocking the doors so that we could proceed, and me with the dove.
You could tell that this wasn't where most tourists can climb. For one thing, there was no light. The assistant nicely shone his mobile phone flashlight down so I could see where I was stepping. For another, there were birds nests on the stairs. Eventually, we made it to the very top where the bell is. There was only room for 4 of us. The Mariquelo made his speech. I handed him the basket with the dove, which he released, he played some music and sang, accompanied also by the accordionist, photos were taken on people's phones, and then we headed down again.
I rejoined Victor and his friends and we went to enjoy some wine and tapas in a couple of bars, as well as more traditional music and dancing, before they headed to a restaurant to eat and I headed to the albergue to open up. That was my day so far.
Photos: me with the ladies, music and dancing in the plaza, miking the Mariquelo, me with dove in basket, the crowds below, heading into the darkness of the unlit stairwell, releasing the dove, looking over the nave on the way down
View attachment 180012 View attachment 180010 View attachment 180005 View attachment 180006 View attachment 180013 View attachment 180007 View attachment 180008 View attachment 180009