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Camino Wildlife (excluding escaped circus animals)

davejsy

Walked the Camino Francés for SSD UK 2023
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2023 sept/Oct
Primitivo July 2024
So as not to clog up other threads thought it would be good to start a new thread.

What stories do people have about wildlife they have seen on their Camino's? Or other general wildlife-related Camino stories? Or maybe even wildlife-related Camino folklore?

As mentioned on another thread, some of the Camino's cut through countryside still inhabited by bears and wolves (which pose no significant threat to pilgrims for anyone worried of such), and they sit at the top of the chain of a myriad of amazing wildlife inhabiting this beautiful land. The wildlife specifically of NW Spain is what has drawn me to this region at least twice yearly (or bi-annually if you prefer) for the last 12+ years and made it my second home. I have been lucky enough to see wolves and bears and track entire packs of wolves in knee-deep snow in some of the world's most beautiful and still wild mountains in Spain. For me, this adds a whole extra significance and magic to the Caminos knowing the wilderness that surrounds them in parts.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Day 1 of my first Camino. The Camino Frances. I had misjudged the amount of water I would need and crossed the border near the Fuente de Roldan hot and sweaty and a bit nauseous from dehydration. The fuente was dry. I looked up and saw two griffon vultures circling directly overhead. I shouted at them - "**** off! I'm not dead yet!" - and carried on to Roncesvalles... :cool:
 
On my Camino I saw these vultures at Burguete, and saw some potential wolf tracks (could easily also be a normal dog but the gait is more like a wolf and it was in the middle of nowhere) in La Rioja! We also saw several deer on the stretch between Hontanas and Castrojeriz (too quick for photos). During the evening at Orisson I heard the stags bellowing through the valleys from the forests below during the rut. Apart from that I think the only other significant animals were a lot of red kites and buzzards :)

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...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Saw some deer on a couple of my Caminos. Game birds with chick's a few times. Lots of storks.

Spoke to a pilgrim last week who was walking 40 to 50 km days until in Asturias he heard rustling in the brush and was sure he was being stalked by a bear. He began to run and tripped and suffered an injury so down to a normal 20 to 30 km per day pace thereafter.

In Wyoming we don't run from bears as they will catch and eat you. Guess the Asturias bears are slower.
 
My main interest in life outwith the camino is birds. Walking out of Sevilla in April 2022 to start the Via de la Plata was magical, crossing the Guadalquivir i saw a Squacco Heron, then heard Cetti's Warbler and on walking the route along the river I was thrilled to hear the beautiful song of Nightingales, seemingly in every bush.

Following the spring north was wonderful and i'd stop suddenly and declare out loud "Bee-eaters, I can hear Bee-eaters!" even if i was on my own 🤣 And i'd stand and marvel at their rainbow colours and beautiful calls.

The Griffon Vultures circling us as we ascended Calvary Hill near Almaden de la Plata worried me a little, my imagination running wild that they were looking for the weakest one of us to pick off.

Storks always amaze me :)

It was good to hear daily birds that are sadly no longer common in the UK Corn Bunting, Turtle Dove and Quail
 
I have been lucky enough to see wolves and bears and track entire packs of wolves in knee-deep snow in some of the world's most beautiful and still wild mountains in Spain. For me, this adds a whole extra significance and magic to the Caminos knowing the wilderness that surrounds them in parts.
How amazing to see bears and wolves :)
 
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In Wyoming we don't run from bears as they will catch and eat you. Guess the Asturias bears are slower.
It's very strange. The European brown bear and the North American grizzly bear are the same species. There are quite dense populations of brown bears in some parts of Europe. I walked through a forest area on the Olavsleden in Sweden which apparently has one of the largest populations. But bear attacks on humans in Europe are extremely rare and we seldom carry defences such as bear spray or guns for personal protection. I've often wondered why the behaviour of the same species is so different across locations.
 
I saw a few eagles and vultures but nothing unusual. There was an article last summer or the year before of a bear walking through a town in the early hours. It left without a fuss. And a couple of years ago a woman was bit on the hand by a viper, I still wonder if she was trying to pet it.

I did take pictures of an extraordinary number of slugs and snails! And helped many of them off the paths on dark mornings. :D
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
On the Sanabres going up Alto de A Canda I met a garduña coming down the path towards me seemingly oblivious to my presence. Just as I was thinking how “Life on Earth” it all was, imaging Attenborough’s dulcet tones narrating the moment, there was an imperceptible shadow above the trail and the Stone Marten darted into the woods just managing to escape the talons of a hawk that swooped between the trees. “Nature, red in tooth and claw”.
 
And a couple of years ago a woman was bit on the hand by a viper, I still wonder if she was trying to pet it.
I remember hearing that at the time. More likely just bad luck. Here in Wales a few years ago I was on a reptile spotting walk with a ranger on a nature reserve. An area usually out of bounds to the public. I knelt on the grass to examine a sloughed snake skin. And only then spotted the large and very much alive female adder which was perfectly still and beautifully camouflaged coiled up in the grass and leaves about a foot from my hand. I could easily have kneeled on her or rested my hand on her. Fortunately she was relying on stealth to avoid confrontations and I was only too glad to back away and give her space.
 
It's very strange. The European brown bear and the North American grizzly bear are the same species. There are quite dense populations of brown bears in some parts of Europe. I walked through a forest area on the Olavsleden in Sweden which apparently has one of the largest populations. But bear attacks on humans in Europe are extremely rare and we seldom carry defences such as bear spray or guns for personal protection. I've often wondered why the behaviour of the same species is so different across locations.
We have both black and grizzly bears. Black bears will usually run if you stand your ground, wave your arms, shout and try to make yourself appear larger

Grizzly bears you try to back away slowly, don't make eye contact or appear threatening. If they charge, you drop to the ground, cover the back of your head and neck with your hands and play dead. They may pick you up by your backpack or an arm or leg or your head. Try not to let them turn you over. Try not to squeal. If you are not a threat and they are not hungry, they may let you go (or not).

Never run with either species or with Mt Lions as they are all faster and will catch you.

We make noise and or sing while hiking to let animals know we are there. We are entering their territory and they will defend it. We always carry bear spray when camping or hiking. Normally the worst situation is to surprise a bear or to leave food out at your campsite which attracts them and usually results in their being relocated (or for repeat offenders destruction as a nuisance and dangerous bear.)

I live in Wyoming where there are many types of wild animals.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
And a couple of years ago a woman was bit on the hand by a viper, I still wonder if she was trying to pet it.
Hilarious! 😅

I have seen very few animals on my various Caminos and have been surprised that I haven't.
I have only seen one deer, a couple of squirrels and rabbits, quite a few storks mostly in their nests, one snake, a conga line of caterpillars across the trail, many snails, and hoofprints with holes dug by I assume were boars rummaging for truffles in Italy.
 
Over my seven Camino walks I have actually been surprised by the lack of any wild life except domestic animals and birds.
My wife and I typically get very early starts and other than spotting a couple of deer in those seven years, virtually nothing.
One exception as noted by another poster were the wild horses on the hospitales route on the Primitivo.
But no rabbits, skunks, coyotes, wolves bears, porcupines, zero zip, nada.
Hiking in the Canadian Rockies, seeing all the above are common and including moose and elk and grizzly bears.
One shouldn't fear wild animals in Spain based on our observations.
 
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2nd ed.
But no rabbits, skunks, coyotes, wolves bears, porcupines, zero zip, nada.
Skunks and coyotes are not native to Europe. Would be hugely surprised if you saw any of those on a Camino. There are some porcupines in Italy. Much bigger than the North American species. I have seen their spines on the roadside but I am glad not to have met them in the flesh. Scary things!
 
Rabbits, thousands and thousands of them on the early part of the Ruta de la Lana in springtime. Lots of deer too. Elsewhere, wild horses, boar, a few foxes and snakes, lots of birds of prey, though I can't tell one from the other. Storks of course.. up in their command posts on electrical pylons and church parapets, sometimes you can hear their hungry, screeching chicks. A lone wolf once, in Asturias.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Oh, I forgot about those beautiful wild horses on the Primitivo!
The first time I walked the Route Napoleon there was a horse standing next to the remains of the border fence when I reached it. I did ask the horse if it wanted to see my passport but it didn't seem very interested so I just let myself into Spain. :cool:
 
The rabbits on the Lana are great, they explode out of the bushes and shoot off in all directions. You'll see a few deer, and it you use a tent you can hear them bellowing to attract mates, a terrifying sound like the howling of zombies. Must be lots of lonely stags thereabouts.
 
Sadly, nothing that I would not see here in Germany or perhaps in the past in New Zealand. (Eg wild horses). I'm sure the birds of prey I saw in Spain were different from those here, but I can't tell one from another. Beautiful creatures!
Deer, rabbit, foxes, wild boar etc are all fairly normal. With the exception of the boar (although they too live here) I've photographed them several times within a kilometer or two of home. Not that I don't like to see them you understand. I, too love the Nightingales in spring, but those I see and hear regularly in Germany.

I would dearly love to see a wolf or bear in the wild - preferably at a comfortable distance!
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
On various caminos/pilgrimages I’ve had experiences or encounters with a number of wildlife. Once a wolf came out of the bushes right in front of me. I froze, the wolf gave me a look and thankfully continued on. On another occasion I had an unnerving experience with a stag. There have been several occasions with boars, either lone ones or, more scary, with a singular (a group) led by massive boars. Though not considered wildlife once I had a frightening encounter with a horse. The camino passed through a fenced pasture with grazing horses. One of them spotted me and came charging at full speed. I expected it to be hoping for a treat or something but as it neared me with no let up in speed I took off running. The horse caught up with me and chased me across the pasture with its snout right on my backpack. I ran as fast as I could and made it out the other gate before being trampled. It sounds amusing now but at the time it was anything but. In Japan there have been instances of passing through groups of monkeys and also plenty of snakes.
 
We heard but did not see a wild boar. Noticed a sign that cautioned the animals were in the area. Then a group of men on horseback set out their dogs for a hunt. About 15 minutes later we heard very loud squealing coming from the nearby woods. Not sure what they used to kill the boar as no shots were fired, perhaps they used bow and arrow.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
In Wyoming we don't run from bears as they will catch and eat you. Guess the Asturias bears are slower.
Yes, the last thing you want to do when faced by any predator. The Cantabrian Brown Bear is similar to the grizzlies (they would probably stand 7-8ft on their hinds), but not as aggressive (I have no idea why). Like many wild animals, they are generally only a threat if surprised, or with their young and feeling threatened.
 
My main interest in life outwith the camino is birds. Walking out of Sevilla in April 2022 to start the Via de la Plata was magical, crossing the Guadalquivir i saw a Squacco Heron, then heard Cetti's Warbler and on walking the route along the river I was thrilled to hear the beautiful song of Nightingales, seemingly in every bush.

Following the spring north was wonderful and i'd stop suddenly and declare out loud "Bee-eaters, I can hear Bee-eaters!" even if i was on my own 🤣 And i'd stand and marvel at their rainbow colours and beautiful calls.

The Griffon Vultures circling us as we ascended Calvary Hill near Almaden de la Plata worried me a little, my imagination running wild that they were looking for the weakest one of us to pick off.

Storks always amaze me :)

It was good to hear daily birds that are sadly no longer common in the UK Corn Bunting, Turtle Dove and Quail
I have a friend who runs some hides just outside the Picos de Europa national park. I'm sure if you are a birder (I think thats what they call it!) then you would love it! Among other birds he gets there is the Imperial Eagle. But for sure, Spain is a Mecca for bird enthusiasts.
 
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How amazing to see bears and wolves :)
It is something that I will never ever forget. Just being in the same place as these animals even if you don't see them just makes me feel more alive. I think our souls need the wilderness and the animals that inhabit it, it reminds us where we are from which is too easy to forget in modern life.

A few photos, although nothing Nat Geo worthy - those are in my head, soul, heart.
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I would dearly love to see a wolf or bear in the wild - preferably at a comfortable distance!
Well Spain is as good a place as any, and you can combine it with a Camino! I can certainly point you in the right direction if you should ever wish to try this. For me, it will be one of my best memories, and I hope there will be many such more.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
On various caminos/pilgrimages I’ve had experiences or encounters with a number of wildlife. Once a wolf came out of the bushes right in front of me. I froze, the wolf gave me a look and thankfully continued on. On another occasion I had an unnerving experience with a stag. There have been several occasions with boars, either lone ones or, more scary, with a singular (a group) led by massive boars. Though not considered wildlife once I had a frightening encounter with a horse. The camino passed through a fenced pasture with grazing horses. One of them spotted me and came charging at full speed. I expected it to be hoping for a treat or something but as it neared me with no let up in speed I took off running. The horse caught up with me and chased me across the pasture with its snout right on my backpack. I ran as fast as I could and made it out the other gate before being trampled. It sounds amusing now but at the time it was anything but. In Japan there have been instances of passing through groups of monkeys and also plenty of snakes.
Wow, that wolf experience must have been amazing - how lucky.

I too had a huge stag cross just yards ahead of me (not on Camino but still in Spain), it stopped and stared straight at me for what seemed an eternity but was probably just a second or two. It was so primeval and the look was hypnotic, it was like staring into another world. Another moment etched in my memory forever.

For sure horses can be very aggressive, and when they are they are extremely big powerful animals.
 
Just as I was about to cross the highway at Alto do Poio a hunting car passed me pulling a dog trailer. A dead wolf was tied on top the trailer. Buen Camino (?), Lobo
Yes the hunting of wolves in Spain was until recently still allowed, and maybe even back on the agenda soon if some people have their way. They are a divisive species in our heavily politicised world. Even now it is not uncommon for such hunters to hang the heads of dead wolves from bridges to defy the current hunting ban - something that kind of sums up which the most barbaric species on earth is. . .
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
My mother-in-law many years ago brought me a cuckoo clock back from Switzerland. I'd never heard a real cuckoo bird, until my first Camino on the Frances. I was totally amazed at how they sounded exactly like the clock (or should I say the clock sounded exactly like the real thing). I never did physically see👀 the bird, but they have left a lasting impression when I do as I have never heard or seen one in the US.
 
We heard but did not see a wild boar. Noticed a sign that cautioned the animals were in the area. Then a group of men on horseback set out their dogs for a hunt. About 15 minutes later we heard very loud squealing coming from the nearby woods. Not sure what they used to kill the boar as no shots were fired, perhaps they used bow and arrow.
Almost certainly a knife. In New Zealand our pig dogs are trained to hold the pigs - hence the squealing - and we slit the pigs throats.
I've also tried hunting with a bow, the aim then is to be as quiet as possible - you most definitely do not take your dogs! It takes an awful lot of patience and skill to successfully Hunt with a bow. You have to get much closer than with a gun!
 
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This critter crossed my path, also a fox that briefly looked back at me before disappearing and lots of birds.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
We saw a wolf on the VdlP (or maybe later on the Sanabrés, I can't remember). We had seen its footprints in the sand for a few days and finally one of our walking companions took a picture of it, only the back of it as it was fleeing. The people in the next village said 'yes, that is definitely a wolf'.
 
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The deer was on the other side of a main road on the Primitivo. The adder was actually on the road on the Via de la Lana near Santo Domingo de Silos. I wasn´t sure if it was alive or not, but it wriggled away quickly enough when it realised I was there. On the Lana, there were days when we saw more deer than people. There were a couple of wild boar just outside Tres Campos, a suburb of Madrid, on the Camino de Madrid. The frog was also on the Madrid. The bat was concealed under a pair of old jeans nailed to a pine tree. I have no idea what the bat or the jeans were doing there. If anyone can identify the bird, also seen on the Madrid, please let us know. Finally, an edible dormouse on the Salvador. Most wild life is much too quick to let itself be photographed but sometimes you get lucky.

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Slow-worm, often; adder, occasionally; wolf; once; boar, several times; many raptors, several Griffen Vultures, an otter - but thankfully no bed-bugs.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I have seen a number of deer but no other animals in Spain. Also the rare snake, thousands of lizards, slugs, storks, birds. Really surprised at how few encounters I have had walking in Spain, Portugal, France or Italy.

In Arizona (where I live) it is very common to see Road Runners, Coyotes, Gila Monsters, Javilinas,
Bob Cats, Deer, Taratulas IMG_1468.JPG

Vultures (daily), Quail, Scorpions, and other creepy crawlers. There are Mountain Lions (Cougars) in the area but I have not seen one.
Bears are not common as it is desert and they usually stay in the mountains or further north.
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In my Back Yard......
 
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I have seen a number of deer but no other animals in Spain. Also the rare snake, thousands of lizards, slugs, storks, birds. Really surprised at how few encounters I have had walking in Spain, Portugal, France or Italy.

In Arizona (where I live) it is very common to see Road Runners, Coyotes, Gila Monsters, Javilinas,
Bob Cats, Deer, Taratulas View attachment 162160

Vultures (daily), Quail, Scorpions, and other creepy crawlers. There are Mountain Lions (Cougars) in the area but I have not seen one.
Bears are not common as it is desert and they usually stay in the mountains or further north.
View attachment 162158
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In my Back Yard......
Woah, and people are scared to visit Australia!!! );
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
A bit off topic ..... then again not so off topic.

One thing that strikes me when in Spain, Portugal or France is the distinct lack of song bird life in the forests or along the way. On my morning walk here in the Australian forests, birds and seen and heard all the time.

Sadly, this was not so in Spain in 2016, Portugal in 2017 and in France (Le Puy to SJPdP ) in 2023.

In Spain particularly, I saw more spend shotgun shells on the ground than birds in the bushes and that, to me, was appalling. There is that, then there are the frequent cats that you see on the way, wildfires plus goodness knows what else, that over time reduces birdlife numbers.

The problem is that when the birds are gone, only those who remember them know they were there once, and the absence of birds then becomes the norm.

Also, that reminds me about an incident on the Meseta on October 2016.

I was walking with a Dutchman whom I had just met as you do on Camino, having a casual conversation, when I saw that my companion was just about to inadvertently step on a small, lively and no doubt venomous adder.

I flung my left arm across his chest to stop him and indeed he stopped very suddenly because I may have been a bit too urgent and my elbow may have contacted him rather forcefully. Here, experienced country people automatically scan the ground in front of them when out walking because there are lots of snakes around.

As we we were watching (and filming) our adder friend, a few people gathered around and it wasn't long before someone produced a large rock intending to kill the snake. That fellow most likely has lifelong hearing loss after I finished saying my piece to him.

The little adder was then gently encouraged to slither off into grasses not far from the path to live its life as adders should do.

The only dangerous thing I saw was hairy caterpillars on the track. Best left alone and agony if picked up.

Ticks also worried me but I didn't see any of those thankfully. Bedbugs was another worry and didn't see any of them either.

I would love to see a lot more wildlife in all it's forms, dangerous or not, but I also understand there are feral non-native species that don't belong in the habitat.

Cheers
 
We saw a wolf on the VdlP (or maybe later on the Sanabrés, I can't remember). We had seen its footprints in the sand for a few days and finally one of our walking companions took a picture of it, only the back of it as it was fleeing. The people in the next village said 'yes, that is definitely a wolf'.
Quite possibly the Sanabres, this Camino passes through the Sierra de la Culebra which has the highest density of wolves in Spain. A very popular place for people to go and try and see a wolf, and home to beautiful misty sunrises.
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
View attachment 162149View attachment 162150
The deer was on the other side of a main road on the Primitivo. The adder was actually on the road on the Via de la Lana near Santo Domingo de Silos. I wasn´t sure if it was alive or not, but it wriggled away quickly enough when it realised I was there. On the Lana, there were days when we saw more deer than people. There were a couple of wild boar just outside Tres Campos, a suburb of Madrid, on the Camino de Madrid. The frog was also on the Madrid. The bat was concealed under a pair of old jeans nailed to a pine tree. I have no idea what the bat or the jeans were doing there. If anyone can identify the bird, also seen on the Madrid, please let us know. Finally, an edible dormouse on the Salvador. Most wild life is much too quick to let itself be photographed but sometimes you get lucky.

View attachment 162151View attachment 162152View attachment 162153View attachment 162154
What a great collection you got! The bird will be a vulture, probably Griffin.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
The animals are out there, but they're avoiding us ... They have no interest in being gawked at or gushed over by pilgrims, these strange trudging creatures with their bizarre cries to each other, irritating and quite inedible.

The vultures and bedbugs are exceptional, and their devoted and patient attention to pilgrims is imho unappreciated.
 
A bit off topic ..... then again not so off topic.

One thing that strikes me when in Spain, Portugal or France is the distinct lack of song bird life in the forests or along the way. On my morning walk here in the Australian forests, birds and seen and heard all the time.

Sadly, this was not so in Spain in 2016, Portugal in 2017 and in France (Le Puy to SJPdP ) in 2023.

In Spain particularly, I saw more spend shotgun shells on the ground than birds in the bushes and that, to me, was appalling. There is that, then there are the frequent cats that you see on the way, wildfires plus goodness knows what else, that over time reduces birdlife numbers.

The problem is that when the birds are gone, only those who remember them know they were there once, and the absence of birds then becomes the norm.

Also, that reminds me about an incident on the Meseta on October 2016.

I was walking with a Dutchman whom I had just met as you do on Camino, having a casual conversation, when I saw that my companion was just about to inadvertently step on a small, lively and no doubt venomous adder.

I flung my left arm across his chest to stop him and indeed he stopped very suddenly because I may have been a bit too urgent and my elbow may have contacted him rather forcefully. Here, experienced country people automatically scan the ground in front of them when out walking because there are lots of snakes around.

As we we were watching (and filming) our adder friend, a few people gathered around and it wasn't long before someone produced a large rock intending to kill the snake. That fellow most likely has lifelong hearing loss after I finished saying my piece to him.

The little adder was then gently encouraged to slither off into grasses not far from the path to live its life as adders should do.

The only dangerous thing I saw was hairy caterpillars on the track. Best left alone and agony if picked up.

Ticks also worried me but I didn't see any of those thankfully. Bedbugs was another worry and didn't see any of them either.

I would love to see a lot more wildlife in all it's forms, dangerous or not, but I also understand there are feral non-native species that don't belong in the habitat.

Cheers
Yes you are right about the birds, although I do recall a few instances where there were literally thousands in some villages (I guess starlings). But songbirds not so many.

Spain has a very old-fashioned relationship with its wildlife, although things are changing with the younger generations. Hunters still hold huge amounts of power though and generally do what they want. In the mountains where I spend a lot of my time they will often close off huge public areas to walkers and hikers so the hunters can move in to gun everything down in the name of doing a public service. Don't get me wrong, I have no issue with people hunting to eat what they kill, but when it is done for fun, or so called sport or probably the worst reason being hatred then it has no place in today's society and environmental crisis we're in (IMO).

I think the Caminos will by their nature of having steady streams of people walking along them remain less frequented by wildlife than other places (although this generally wouldn't apply to songbirds I guess). Then take into account the hunters and it's easy to see why a lot of wildlife keeps a low profile - but it is there, and it is amazing.
 
Re: missing songbirds: I thought the large plantings of Eucalyptus trees in Spain were one cause. Their resin causes the demise of birds. Domestic cats are another threat and possibly the huge decrease in insects is another.

Fifty years ago, here in Canada, if you drove through the prairies, you needed a screen in front of the radiator to prevent insects from getting jammed in. And you needed to stop frequently to clear your windshield of squashed insects (mostly grasshoppers).

There's no 'problem' now in summer drives through the prairies. The insects have disappeared.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I would dearly love to see a wolf or bear in the wild - preferably at a comfortable distance!
Drives me crazy when I am hiking in the Canadian Rockies when I see oblivious tourists try to approach black/brown/grizzly bears, Elk or Moose.
They have literally zero idea of how dangerous it is.
A bear can close a fifty yard gap in a couple of seconds and can easily run down the fastest of runners.
Even an Elk is highly dangerous and will end you in a couple of seconds, especially during the rut season.
So if you encounter large game, admire them at a good distance and back away if in doubt.
 
Speaking of the absence of birdsong on the camino (in our forests here too), last summer I was fortunate enough to visit Czechia (former Czech Rep.) and walk a bit in the forests in the eastern part of that country. All over, we were amazed at the riotous birdsong. I don’t know if birdsong is more prevalent in deciduous forests, as was the case in Czechia, and less so in coniferous forest as is the case where I live. (I’ll try to attach a video.)

View attachment IMG_0526.mov
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Drives me crazy when I am hiking in the Canadian Rockies when I see oblivious tourists try to approach black/brown/grizzly bears, Elk or Moose.
They have literally zero idea of how dangerous it is.
A bear can close a fifty yard gap in a couple of seconds and can easily run down the fastest of runners.
Even an Elk is highly dangerous and will end you in a couple of seconds, especially during the rut season.
So if you encounter large game, admire them at a good distance and back away if in doubt.“
I would dearly love to see a wolf or bear in the wild - preferably at a comfortable distance!
Yep, your good = my comfortable .

I’ve hiked and driven in the Rockies, never once saw a bear, or even an Elk. If I had, I would certainly never approach- I’m not suicidal. But it would have been nice to see one!

I’ve been fortunate to see lions, elephants, water buffalo, hyena, hippos ( now THOSE are dangerous, killing around 500 people a year), sharks whilst scuba diving (generally harmless but scary) crocodiles, various snakes, scorpions, etc. One of my favourite photos of all time is a massive Silver Back gorilla, who silently emerged from the forest behind me. I was completely unaware as he waited patiently to get past, until a travel companion suggested rather firmly that I might want to get off the… path. Turned around to see a 180kg giant behind me. NOT what I call a comfortable distance!
I stepped rapidly off the path and he just ambled by, stopping in the sunlight about 5-10 metres farther up the trail. A couple of minutes later, I had recovered enough to take this photo- no, I do not have a zoom, and I did NOT approach him!image.jpg
 
We ran into a grizzly while hiking in the Canadian Rockies several years ago; he was coming down the trail towards us. There was nothing for us to do but step aside and pray that he would continue on his way and leave us alone which, thankfully, is what he did. Several hikers ran into this fellow that day; he didn’t seem interested in anyone.
 
We ran into a grizzly while hiking in the Canadian Rockies several years ago;
In 1997 I went to Canada on exercise with the British Army. At the end of the exercise I had a few days leave. I rented a car and drove down through Montana to Yellowstone. An extraordinary experience. I saw some very reckless behaviour by other tourists around the wildlife - including bears, elk and bison. But I wasn't 100% guiltless myself. There was a migratory run of trout up the river into the lake. I knelt on a flat rock and watched dozens of trout passing by inches from my nose. So close that I could reach out and touch their backs. Then I heard a friendly voice behind me: "Hi there!" Turned around to see a ranger - Smokey Bear hat and all. I walked over to him. "Sorry to interrupt you but I thought I should tell you something. See that rock you were kneeling on? There was a bear fishing right there an hour ago. He'll probably be back soon. Might be an idea to keep your eyes open and look around now and again!" Message gratefully received and understood! :-)
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Full grown Moose, both bull and cows, were common in neighborhoods when I lived in Eagle River, Alaska about 20 years ago. Huge animals with no fear of humans. The rack on the Bulls were amazing.

There were both black bears and grizzlies often seen in my neighhood and area....but I did not see a bear while I lived in Alaska.
I was often in in the Bush fishing and others would see them.

Most fishermen carried large caliber guns as a normal piece of equipment when out in the bush because of the large number of bear encounters. As I said before,....despite the common sightings and encounters...I never saw a bear. :-(
 
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We ran into a grizzly while hiking in the Canadian Rockies several years ago; he was coming down the trail towards us. There was nothing for us to do but step aside and pray that he would continue on his way and leave us alone which, thankfully, is what he did. Several hikers ran into this fellow that day; he didn’t seem interested in anyone.
Bears are like cops. 95% are reasonable, but that other 5%, better watch out! The thing is you never know if the bear is in the 95% camp or the 5% one when crossing paths with one.
Bears with cubs are highly unpredictable and likely the most potentially dangerous bear encounter you will ever make.
My black humor when hiking with others, all of us bells on our packs is if the bells are signaling to the bears 'dinner time!'
I always carry bear spray and a high frequency air horn that runs on compressed air when hiking in the local Rockies. First the horn, then the bear spray as it in only effective very close up. I fortunately haven't ever had to resort to either.
Most stories I hear about bear spray are either accidental discharges or people not realizing they are spraying into the wind that gives agonizing results. Bear spray is very nasty stuff! Bottom line it is a last ditch effort to avoid death, so don't ever think it gives you 'bear invincibility.'
In Canada if you're hiking outside of a national park it is legal to carry a firearm (no hand guns) with a short 12 gauge shot gun loaded with slugs or 00 buckshot being the most preferred option. With the closing speed of a bear, you are extremely lucky to get one shot off if any depending how you are carrying it.
A couple along with their dog were all killed this past fall by an encounter with a bear in Alberta. They were noted to have been seasoned hikers.
But statistically, you are more likely to die in a road accident on the way to your hiking spot than from an animal encounter, so there is that.
 
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Drives me crazy when I am hiking in the Canadian Rockies when I see oblivious tourists try to approach black/brown/grizzly bears, Elk or Moose.
They have literally zero idea of how dangerous it is.
A bear can close a fifty yard gap in a couple of seconds and can easily run down the fastest of runners.
Even an Elk is highly dangerous and will end you in a couple of seconds, especially during the rut season.
So if you encounter large game, admire them at a good distance and back away if in doubt.
Yes one very good reason to use a guide with expert knowledge. In Spain the majority of guides and such companies are very ethical and viewing will always be at a respectable distance, and generally the animals will quickly disappear once aware of any human presence.
 
I think I saw an adder on the Meseta. About 18" long, very thick. But it's head had been smashed in. On a rodeway leading into an underpass. I don't think a tire got it, I think a rock or hammer. Near Finistere years ago l my wife and I were "ambushed" by a pair of 24" slender snakes they slithered into our narrow path right in front of us, one from each side. Pheramones working hard. They immediately wrapped around each other and engaged in vigorous orgiastic action. We felt embarrassed to see! Then they parted, each to a different side of the heavily vegetated path. I have seen several other snakes on the Caminos but NOTHING like that. Whew! Came upon this little guy on the road approaching Ruesta on the Camino Aragones in mid October. Thought and hoped it was alive. Supple but gentle prodding produced no reaction. Buen CaminoIMG_3524.jpg
 
Came upon this little guy on the road approaching Ruesta on the Camino Aragones in mid October
A ladder snake (Zamenis scalaris). Quite a young one - the "rungs" of the ladder pattern on its back fade with age leaving only longitudinal stripes. Non-venomous and harmless to humans.
 
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Gracias for the positive ID. I couldn't find a photo of the smashed-head maybe adder. Must not have taken one. I'm an arctic wildlife biologist. Much more comfortable around bears than snakes. Buen Camino
 
… A couple along with their dog were all killed this past fall by an encounter with a bear in Alberta. They were noted to have been seasoned hikers.
My understanding from my reading of this incident - if we’re referring to the same one - is that the couple - experienced in the outdoors - had set up camp intending to stay several days. A grizzly came upon them, they employed pepper spray and the bear left. However, the bear returned some time (days?) later to the same camp where the couple had remained, seemingly with the intent to do harm. An awful incident, anyway one looks at it.
 
Re: missing songbirds: I thought the large plantings of Eucalyptus trees in Spain were one cause. Their resin causes the demise of birds.

This is a very interesting observation. It reminds me of a book, Where Song Began: Australia's Birds and How They Changed the World. It describes how the superabundance of sugar in eucalyptus trees contributed to the development of songbirds, fueling the energy which led to song and higher intelligence. This was all a long time ago - maybe 30 million years? I do not know when eucalyptus was introduced to Spain, or why. At least in Galicia it seems relatively recent. It makes me wonder if a former advantage turned to a handicap, especially in a different overall ecosystem? I have no idea - no scientist here, just love birds and wildlife! - but thank you for mentioning your thought. It is evocative on a grand scale.
 
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This is a very interesting observation. It reminds me of a book, Where Song Began: Australia's Birds and How They Changed the World. It describes how the superabundance of sugar in eucalyptus trees contributed to the development of songbirds, fueling the energy which led to song and higher intelligence. This was all a long time ago - maybe 30 million years? I do not know when eucalyptus was introduced to Spain, or why. At least in Galicia it seems relatively recent. It makes me wonder if a former advantage turned to a handicap, especially in a different overall ecosystem? I have no idea - no scientist here, just love birds and wildlife! - but thank you for mentioning your thought. It is evocative on a grand scale.
Here is a link to a scientific article:
 
It's very strange. The European brown bear and the North American grizzly bear are the same species. There are quite dense populations of brown bears in some parts of Europe. I walked through a forest area on the Olavsleden in Sweden which apparently has one of the largest populations. But bear attacks on humans in Europe are extremely rare and we seldom carry defences such as bear spray or guns for personal protection. I've often wondered why the behaviour of the same species is so different across locations.

Grizzly/Brown Bear attacks on humans are extremely in North America too.

"Since 1784 there have been 82 fatal human/bear conflicts by wild brown bears in North America."

 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
As I said before,....despite the common sightings and encounters...I never saw a bear. :-(
I think some of us are fated to remain bear - less.
As I said previously, I've hiked and driven through the Canadian Rockies.
I hitched hiked from Vancouver to Toronto, and most of the time I free camped.
I hiked part of the West Coast trail on Vancouver Island ( we got evacuated by boat due to a massive storm front coming in) - the first night a woman camping a few hundred meters away was dragged from her tent by a couple of guys because a bear was at the back of her tent. I saw and heard nothing. ( No harm came to either woman, tent,or bear). I free camped at multiple other spots on Vancouver Island.
I spent a couple of weeks on Queen Charlotte island, again free camping.
I spent a month at a Backpackers on Powell river ( sadly now gone) in the middle of the woods. Bears were sighted by others on multiple occasions, often on one of the main paths. I was on the main and subsidiary paths every day, I even went Bush wacking in that time.

To this day I remain bear - less 😢
 
I think some of us are fated to remain bear - less.
As I said previously, I've hiked and driven through the Canadian Rockies.
I hitched hiked from Vancouver to Toronto, and most of the time I free camped.
I hiked part of the West Coast trail on Vancouver Island ( we got evacuated by boat due to a massive storm front coming in) - the first night a woman camping a few hundred meters away was dragged from her tent by a couple of guys because a bear was at the back of her tent. I saw and heard nothing. ( No harm came to either woman, tent,or bear). I free camped at multiple other spots on Vancouver Island.
I spent a couple of weeks on Queen Charlotte island, again free camping.
I spent a month at a Backpackers on Powell river ( sadly now gone) in the middle of the woods. Bears were sighted by others on multiple occasions, often on one of the main paths. I was on the main and subsidiary paths every day, I even went Bush wacking in that time.

To this day I remain bear - less 😢
Always best to see a bear through your car window at a safe distance...
 
I think some of us are fated to remain bear - less.
As I said previously, I've hiked and driven through the Canadian Rockies.
I hitched hiked from Vancouver to Toronto, and most of the time I free camped.
I hiked part of the West Coast trail on Vancouver Island ( we got evacuated by boat due to a massive storm front coming in) - the first night a woman camping a few hundred meters away was dragged from her tent by a couple of guys because a bear was at the back of her tent. I saw and heard nothing. ( No harm came to either woman, tent,or bear). I free camped at multiple other spots on Vancouver Island.
I spent a couple of weeks on Queen Charlotte island, again free camping.
I spent a month at a Backpackers on Powell river ( sadly now gone) in the middle of the woods. Bears were sighted by others on multiple occasions, often on one of the main paths. I was on the main and subsidiary paths every day, I even went Bush wacking in that time.

To this day I remain bear - less 😢
Yes, you should have encountered a bear somewhere in your travels. 😊 But don’t feel too bad. When we related our grizzly bear encounter to the park warden he was a bit miffed; said he had worked in the park (Yoho National) for so many years and had never encountered a grizzly in the wild. (edited - just remembered, it was Yoho National Park)
 
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I think some of us are fated to remain bear - less.
As I said previously, I've hiked and driven through the Canadian Rockies.
I hitched hiked from Vancouver to Toronto, and most of the time I free camped.
I hiked part of the West Coast trail on Vancouver Island ( we got evacuated by boat due to a massive storm front coming in) - the first night a woman camping a few hundred meters away was dragged from her tent by a couple of guys because a bear was at the back of her tent. I saw and heard nothing. ( No harm came to either woman, tent,or bear). I free camped at multiple other spots on Vancouver Island.
I spent a couple of weeks on Queen Charlotte island, again free camping.
I spent a month at a Backpackers on Powell river ( sadly now gone) in the middle of the woods. Bears were sighted by others on multiple occasions, often on one of the main paths. I was on the main and subsidiary paths every day, I even went Bush wacking in that time.

To this day I remain bear - less 😢
Man, I am the exact opposite. On early morning drives or at twilight I see them in the ditches while I drive in the Rockies frequently. More on the smaller secondary roads that don't have the wildlife fencing. Probably the most I have seen is when driving, is on Highway 11 ( also known as the David Thompson highway) that runs west from Red Deer Alberta and intersects highway 93 in Banff National Park. I've seen more from my car then when hiking. I think we are pretty invisible when in a car to them. Lack of scent.
I see people stop to take pictures on the road who get out of their cars when the bear is inside of 100 yards.
Usain Bolt set a world record of 9.6 seconds for 100 yards, this is a slow bear on an off day. They can hit 35 miles per hour and cover 50 yards in 3 seconds. They are faster than a horse in a short sprint.
Bear attacks are actually pretty rare, but it certainly isn't for lack of trying by some people. It's fortunate that a normal healthy bear steers clear of humans in almost all cases...smart animal.
Feeding bears ultimately dooms them as they get attracted to people and easy food and they get destroyed as they keep seeking human contact and easy food. Sad.
 
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I think some of us are fated to remain bear - less.
As I said previously, I've hiked and driven through the Canadian Rockies.
I hitched hiked from Vancouver to Toronto, and most of the time I free camped.
I hiked part of the West Coast trail on Vancouver Island ( we got evacuated by boat due to a massive storm front coming in) - the first night a woman camping a few hundred meters away was dragged from her tent by a couple of guys because a bear was at the back of her tent. I saw and heard nothing. ( No harm came to either woman, tent,or bear). I free camped at multiple other spots on Vancouver Island.
I spent a couple of weeks on Queen Charlotte island, again free camping.
I spent a month at a Backpackers on Powell river ( sadly now gone) in the middle of the woods. Bears were sighted by others on multiple occasions, often on one of the main paths. I was on the main and subsidiary paths every day, I even went Bush wacking in that time.

To this day I remain bear - less 😢
Perhaps the perfect excuse to tag on an extra few days after your next Camino to go and see a Spanish bear! With a guide, and in Spring or Autumn you are pretty likely to see one.

Head to Somiedo and you might get lucky like this! Although this is a few years old it's not uncommon to see both bears and wolves there.
 
Oh gosh I'm slightly scared now! I come from New Zealand and there's really nothing that wants to bite you except for sandflies / mossies. No snakes, bears, nothing coming out of the sky wanting for carrion. We have one venomous spider called a katipo, but pretty rare and have never seen one.

Must admit to being apprehensive of going past the horses on the CF.... they're quite large and will probably sense I'm nervous. I've never seen a snake in the wild - if I do, that will be my cardio done for the day without even running!

I've been across Canada by land from Vancouver, across the Great Lakes and down into the New York area. I had the privilege of seeing all types of bears - black, brown and grizzly. Have many Canadians seen a bear in their own country? I heard that most haven't. Saw lots of moose and deer, out in the open too. We went across the Prairies. I can confirm it's a long way and there aren't many corners or hills! Windscreen didn't seem to suffer with bugs (unfortunately). In one location I remember these flies - horse flies I think they were called. Massive flies that wanted to bite.
 
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Quite possibly the Sanabres, this Camino passes through the Sierra de la Culebra which has the highest density of wolves in Spain. A very popular place for people to go and try and see a wolf, and home to beautiful misty sunrises.
You're right. it was the Sanabrés.
Interestingly, the locals said 'yes, it fled, but they still hang around, hidden. And should you remain in what they see as their territory, they attack".
I have no idea whether this is true or not.
 
Interestingly, the locals said 'yes, it fled, but they still hang around, hidden. And should you remain in what they see as their territory, they attack".
I have no idea whether this is true or not.
Certainly not true - I don't think there have been any recorded attacks on humans in Spain, certainly not in the last 100 years that I'm aware of.

There is even a well documented case of an abandoned child been raised by a pack of wolves in the Sierra Moreno. The Sierra Moreno (just north of Seville) and surrounding areas were home to an isolated population of Wolves probably into the early 2000's, but it now looks like they are extinct from this region unfortunately.
 
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Certainly not true - I don't think there have been any recorded attacks on humans in Spain, certainly not in the last 100 years that I'm aware of.

There is even a well documented case of an abandoned child been raised by a pack of wolves in the Sierra Moreno. The Sierra Moreno (just north of Seville) and surrounding areas were home to an isolated population of Wolves probably into the early 2000's, but it now looks like they are extinct from this region unfortunately.
Yes I tend to agree with you. They might have attacked in the 19th century when they roamed in packs but nowadays there seem to be only the one lonely wolf ...
 
Yep, your good = my comfortable .

I’ve hiked and driven in the Rockies, never once saw a bear, or even an Elk. If I had, I would certainly never approach- I’m not suicidal. But it would have been nice to see one!

I’ve been fortunate to see lions, elephants, water buffalo, hyena, hippos ( now THOSE are dangerous, killing around 500 people a year), sharks whilst scuba diving (generally harmless but scary) crocodiles, various snakes, scorpions, etc. One of my favourite photos of all time is a massive Silver Back gorilla, who silently emerged from the forest behind me. I was completely unaware as he waited patiently to get past, until a travel companion suggested rather firmly that I might want to get off the… path. Turned around to see a 180kg giant behind me. NOT what I call a comfortable distance!
I stepped rapidly off the path and he just ambled by, stopping in the sunlight about 5-10 metres farther up the trail. A couple of minutes later, I had recovered enough to take this photo- no, I do not have a zoom, and I did NOT approach him!View attachment 162174
What an extraordinary privilege.
 
They might have attacked in the 19th century when they roamed in packs but nowadays there seem to be only the one lonely wolf ..
The biggest pack I've seen has been 14, in the Picos de Europa. Sierra de la Culebra area would also have decent size packs.
 
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An article from a local news website about why more wildlife is being spotted in cities on the Camino. Talking especially about sighting of wild boar beside the Templar castle in Ponferrada.

 
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An article from a local news website about why more wildlife is being spotted in cities on the Camino. Talking especially about sighting of wild boar beside the Templar castle in Ponferrada.

Standard Spanish article where the problem (if it can be called a problem) is blamed on the lack of people shooting the animals - pro-hunting.

I'm not sure what the actual reason is and don't imagine it's something that has not always happened, but it's more easily captured and spread via phones and the internet nowadays.
 
It's very strange. The European brown bear and the North American grizzly bear are the same species. There are quite dense populations of brown bears in some parts of Europe. I walked through a forest area on the Olavsleden in Sweden which apparently has one of the largest populations. But bear attacks on humans in Europe are extremely rare and we seldom carry defences such as bear spray or guns for personal protection. I've often wondered why the behaviour of the same species is so different across locations.
Hi Bradypus, they are indeed the same species but considered different sub-species. Maybe that explains the difference in behaviour. The American version has the sub-species name 'horribilis', so who knows. I am glad there are less of them in Europe.
 
Speaking of wild boar, a few years ago a friend and I were touring France and Spain by motorbike and were staying in a gite in France and were having dinner with our hosts in their garden. The lady of the house told us that a common practice was to drive to the local cafe/bar but to return via trails through the woods to avoid the gendarmes and their breathalysers. She said one evening she was driving back and hit a "songleur" which wrote off her car. Their neighbour was an elderly English guy who had joined us for dinner and I asked what a "songleur" was and it is indeed a wild boar. I thought it must be quite a size to write off a car and asked her what happened to the animal, thinking it may have run off, or been injured and she replied "He is in my freezer" !
 
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I thought it must be quite a size to write off a car and asked her what happened to the animal, thinking it may have run off, or been injured
I was stationed in Germany for a while in the 1990s serving with the British Army. From the married quarters where I and some others lived to the main barracks was a 20-30 minute drive through the Teutoburger forest. A neighbour hit a wild boar one morning, assumed he had killed it and put it in the back of his estate car. Unfortunately it was only stunned and not dead. When my neighbour realised it had woken up scared and sore and very grumpy he quickly abandoned the car and watched at a distance as the interior was trashed by some very unhappy pork trying to find the way out.
 
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We have both black and grizzly bears. Black bears will usually run if you stand your ground, wave your arms, shout and try to make yourself appear larger

Grizzly bears you try to back away slowly, don't make eye contact or appear threatening. If they charge, you drop to the ground, cover the back of your head and neck with your hands and play dead. They may pick you up by your backpack or an arm or leg or your head. Try not to let them turn you over. Try not to squeal. If you are not a threat and they are not hungry, they may let you go (or not).

Never run with either species or with Mt Lions as they are all faster and will catch you.

We make noise and or sing while hiking to let animals know we are there. We are entering their territory and they will defend it. We always carry bear spray when camping or hiking. Normally the worst situation is to surprise a bear or to leave food out at your campsite which attracts them and usually results in their being relocated (or for repeat offenders destruction as a nuisance and dangerous bear.)

I live in Wyoming where there are many types of wild animals.
And they think Oz has scary animals!!!!!
 
I've walked six ways and on five of them i only ever saw a few red kites in one area, not many other birds at all, one rabbit and a greeny coloured llizard, but, on the Sanabrés i saw two foxes and many roe deer which I suppose understandable as it's quieter and remote.
 
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And they think Oz has scary animals!!!!!
Yes it does! Friends in Sydney told me I'd see no snakes in the middle of winter. Less than a week later I met a death adder on a bush trail. And when I saw saltwater crocs in Kakadu I couldn't help thinking of that line in "Jaws": 'You're going to need a bigger boat!' :cool:
 
So @K_Lynn was right in an earlier post and I was wrong to doubt it: A bear was indeed seen in the streets of Ponferrada:

I remember it took me a long time to walk out of Ponferada (I've missed signage both times) so I assume the bear had a quicker way and wasnt following the Camino! I dont remember it being a quick exit from town. (Could have something to do with the number of wrong turns)
 
(Could have something to do with the number of wrong turns)
You are not alone. Been there four times and missed the path on two of them. For the last visit I just looked at a map and made my own way out of town until I met the yellow arrows again!
 
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It's very strange. The European brown bear and the North American grizzly bear are the same species. There are quite dense populations of brown bears in some parts of Europe. I walked through a forest area on the Olavsleden in Sweden which apparently has one of the largest populations. But bear attacks on humans in Europe are extremely rare and we seldom carry defences such as bear spray or guns for personal protection. I've often wondered why the behaviour of the same species is so different across locations.
I have heard that the grizzled bar tends towards more open spaces and can’t hide as well. Plus most bear attacks are over a kill. Rifle shots are the dinner bell for them. Blacks are different, if they approach you, they intend to eat you, not just beat you up.
 
So as not to clog up other threads thought it would be good to start a new thread.

What stories do people have about wildlife they have seen on their Camino's? Or other general wildlife-related Camino stories? Or maybe even wildlife-related Camino folklore?

As mentioned on another thread, some of the Camino's cut through countryside still inhabited by bears and wolves (which pose no significant threat to pilgrims for anyone worried of such), and they sit at the top of the chain of a myriad of amazing wildlife inhabiting this beautiful land. The wildlife specifically of NW Spain is what has drawn me to this region at least twice yearly (or bi-annually if you prefer) for the last 12+ years and made it my second home. I have been lucky enough to see wolves and bears and track entire packs of wolves in knee-deep snow in some of the world's most beautiful and still wild mountains in Spain. For me, this adds a whole extra significance and magic to the Caminos knowing the wilderness that surrounds them in parts.
Morrison Lizard Podarcis muralis. This was one of many flitting about on the ruin of an ancient hospital/albergue. I can't remember where.
 

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