Which Camino to choose if the CF is too crowded?

[MARSKA]

If not CF then which Camino?

Posts about an over-crowded Camino have me worried. I chose the CF for my 1st based upon the strong recommendations of the experienced pilgrims on this forum. I now understand and agree that the CF is the best in regards to infrastructure, community, etc. But if crowds cause it to be extremely unpleasant, then what?

I have come to realize that I probably wont make it to SDC this trip. I have around 40 actual walking days and out of those I will want to add rest days and/or very short days. My original plan was to start from Pamplona but I'd love to experience a little bit of France and the beauty of the Pyrenees so I adjusted my plans to begin in SJPdP.

I am flying into and out of Madrid - arriving Sept. 21 and departing Nov.2. I plan on overnights somewhere to recover from jetlag before beginning my Camino.

So- I am asking experienced pilgrims - what is your 2nd choice route(s) or variant(s) given the above, if CF is not doable? Just trying to have a back-up in place.

 

[AZtor]

If you want quiet and don't mind not ending in SJPDP, considering doing one of the routes in France.

 

[nycwalking]

If not CF then which Camino?

Posts about an over-crowded Camino have me worried. I chose the CF for my 1st based upon the strong recommendations of the experienced pilgrims on this forum. I now understand and agree that the CF is the best in regards to infrastructure, community, etc. But if crowds cause it to be extremely unpleasant, then what?

I have come to realize that I probably wont make it to SDC this trip. I have around 40 actual walking days and out of those I will want to add rest days and/or very short days. My original plan was to start from Pamplona but I'd love to experience a little bit of France and the beauty of the Pyrenees so I adjusted my plans to begin in SJPdP.

I am flying into and out of Madrid - arriving Sept. 21 and departing Nov.2. I plan on overnights somewhere to recover from jetlag before beginning my Camino.

So- I am asking experienced pilgrims - what is your 2nd choice route(s) or variant(s) given the above, if CF is not doable? Just trying to have a back-up in place.

Don’t give up based upon this or that.

Forty walking days SJPP to Santiago will get you from point to point including including rest days.

Book the first three of four days. Afterwards you’ll have an on the ground feel for next steps.

If CF is to be bumped, Camino Invierno might be doable. After it’s completion walking to Fisterra, end of the world, from Santiago might be nice.

Try and get your Compostela.

Buen camino whatever you decide.

 

[J Willhaus]

It is a hard decision. Normally the beginning of September is also very busy in SJPDP. By late October, some albergues are beginning to close up as the pilgrim traffic dissipates. You might think of starting at Somport and walking the first week or so on the Camino Frances through Aragon. Then when you get to Puente la Reina, you will have experienced the silence of the first week or 10 days before you meet more pilgrims. There are also more places to stay after Puente la Reina. You could then branch off at Ponferrada to walk the Invierno to help miss some of the crowds in the last 100 km of the CF.

Another alternative might be to do the Norte or Primativo. There is infrastructure, but lots fewer pilgrims. I think the Portuguese will still be pretty crowded as it is gaining in popularity. When I retire in another year, I want to walk the Via de la Plata and/or the Mozarabe in the cooler months.

 

[AZtor]

It is a hard decision. Normally the beginning of September is also very busy in SJPDP. By late October, some albergues are beginning to close up as the pilgrim traffic dissipates. You might think of starting at Somport and walking the first week or so on the Camino Frances through Aragon. Then when you get to Puente la Reina, you will have experienced the silence of the first week or 10 days before you meet more pilgrims. There are also more places to stay after Puente la Reina. You could then branch off at Ponferrada to walk the Invierno to help miss some of the crowds in the last 100 km of the CF.

Another alternative might be to do the Norte or Primativo. There is infrastructure, but lots fewer pilgrimsI think the Portuguese will still be pretty crowded as it is gaining in popularity. When I retire in another year, I want to walk the Via de la Plata and/or the Mozarabe in the cooler months.

the VDLP and Moz are on my list too... but as you say, it has to be in the cooler months.

 

[klimmo]

Via de la Plata/Sanabres and continuing the Mozarabe are on my list. For me quiet and great landscapes are more important than reaching Santiago.

I loved the CP, definitely quiet as it was Covid autumn and just a few people around. The Mozarabe I loved too, but that was very lonely, I never saw another walker/hiker. Which suited me fine.

 

[trecile]

I think that you will be fine starting in the second half of September - just reserve up through Pamplona. I wouldn't pre-plan any rest days - rather see how you feel as you go. I prefer to walk a couple of short days in a row, especially into and out of cities. I took a full rest day on my first Camino and didn't know what to do with myself. You are an experienced back country backpacker - you will find walking the Camino much easier.

 

[RJM]

Sounds to me like you're way overthinking walking the Camino. It will be what it will be and besides, life and the Camino is more interesting when there's an element of the unknown.
My advice is to carry on with your original plans and make any needed adjustments as you go. You'll see what I'm talking about when you start walking it.
I've walked multiple routes multiple times and I still make mistakes when I do it. It's nothing but a thing and it ain't life and death and you can always just quit and go home if the suck factor meter red lines.
Ultreia

 

[alexwalker]

IMHO: Don't skip your plan for the CF. Things will calm down to normal; you'll learn a lot on your first week, and you'll be fine. It is a fantastic Camino. Worst case: Take a bus/train to another Camino as a last resort.

 

[trecile]

IMHO: Don't skip your plan for the CF. Things will calm down to normal; you'll learn a lot on your first week, and you'll be fine. It is a fantastic Camino. Worst case: Take a bus/train to another Camino as a last resort.

The Camino Francés is great for first timers because it has the best infrastructure, and in general (with a couple of exceptions), towns with accommodations are between 3 - 10 km apart, making it fairly easy to adjust stages to your needs and abilities.

 

[C clearly]

I think that you will be fine starting in the second half of September - just reserve up through Pamplona. I wouldn't pre-plan any rest days - rather see how you feel as you go.

I agree with @trecile and others who say you should proceed with your first choice - from SJPP (or Pamplona). Based on what you have now learned, you know it is wise to book up to Pamplona, and then assess the situation on the ground. I would expect you to have no particular problems.

 

[Jaime Carrollo]

Whatever you do, do NOT walk the Norte. At least not until after May 12. And avoid the Primitivo until after June 2.

 

[trecile]

Whatever you do, do NOT walk the Norte. At least not until after May 12. And avoid the Primitivo until after June 2.

What are your reasons for this advice?

And @MARSKA is planning a late September start.

I am flying into and out of Madrid - arriving Sept. 21 and departing Nov.2.

 

[RJM]

What are your reasons for this advice?

And @MARSKA is planning a late September start.

September to early November?
I'm going to say the OP won't have much to stress about in terms of pilgrims on the Frances. By the latter half of October numbers go down and albergues start closing for the season. When I walked it during that time frame a few years ago I was the lone pilgrim in a couple albergues, encountered closed up for the season albergues and spent several days walking almost alone on the path.

 

[David Tallan]

If not CF then which Camino?

Posts about an over-crowded Camino have me worried. I chose the CF for my 1st based upon the strong recommendations of the experienced pilgrims on this forum. I now understand and agree that the CF is the best in regards to infrastructure, community, etc. But if crowds cause it to be extremely unpleasant, then what?

I have come to realize that I probably wont make it to SDC this trip. I have around 40 actual walking days and out of those I will want to add rest days and/or very short days. My original plan was to start from Pamplona but I'd love to experience a little bit of France and the beauty of the Pyrenees so I adjusted my plans to begin in SJPdP.

I am flying into and out of Madrid - arriving Sept. 21 and departing Nov.2. I plan on overnights somewhere to recover from jetlag before beginning my Camino.

So- I am asking experienced pilgrims - what is your 2nd choice route(s) or variant(s) given the above, if CF is not doable? Just trying to have a back-up in place.

For first time pilgrims, I tend to recommend the Frances or the Portugues. The Frances if the perspective pilgrim has more time; the Portugues if they have less. Yes, they have the most pilgrims. They also have the most infrastructure. More infrastructure = more flexibility = better able to adopt strategies to address any challenges that you face (like full albergues). So, in general, with 40 days, I'd still be recommending the Frances. But you are asking for a Plan B.

So for a second choice, I'd suggest the Portugues. You can always tack on the Camino Finisterre/Muxia or the Camino Ingles if you find it isn't long enough.

If you really want to walk a less walked Camino, you could consider walking from Madrid. You very very likely won't find any crowds of pilgrims there. The Camino de Madrid joins the Camino Frances at Sahagun, well after the crowds should have spread out., and you will reach Sarria well after the high season for that part of the Camino. But I would do a fair bit of research before walking the Madrid because, like most of the less-walked Caminos, you'll need to plan it and have an idea of where you will be stopping each night so you can let the hospitalero/as know to expect you.

 

[MARSKA]

Thoughtful comments, all. Thanks!

 

[Esperanza]

How much Spanish do you speak? While I have only walked the CF, I think the further you go from the amenities along it, the less English you can expect. The CF is totally manageable with little or no Spanish abilities.

I agree with the others. At the time you’re planning to walk, there wouldn’t be crowds along the CF. The people posting about crowded current conditions are describing the most popular season, or closely adjacent.

 

[Purple Backpack]

So many love the Spanish routes but for me, it’s France on the Via Podiensis. Le Puy to Figeac is gorgeous, delicious food, nice people. Somehow, it felt more “spiritual” to me than other routes. There’s something about the blessing in the beginning at the Cathedral, having the floor open and be on your way. The Célé variant is filled with medieval villages, long quiet walks next to rivers and ancient cave drawings. Rocamadour is touristy…until the tourists leave and then the imagination kicks in and you’re transported back a thousand years. The last third is strolling through vineyards, cool forests and sitting at dinner making friends with wonderful hosts over bottles of local wines and homemade drinks. Delightful.

 

[Former member 92300]

I really wouldn't overstress about the crowds. The Frances is still a great route for first time Pilgrims. Things right now sound hectic with the holiday weekend - but it is usually easy to get away from the crowds. You can walk faster or slower, stay "on stage" or "between stage towns". There are always some beds in municipal and/or religious albergues that cannot be reserved. But you always have the option of reserving. Portuguese is another route many start with. And since you have done Wildnerness hiking - you would probably enjoy the Norte/Primitivo if your knees can still handle the ups and downs every day. Norte feels more like long distance hiking through several cities than a pilgrimage to me - but I felt a strong Pilgrim Spirit on both the Frances and the Primitivo.

But also, if you start on the Frances and find you don't like it for one reason or another - you could always cross over to another route at various points.

 

[C clearly]

Here is a thread from our FAQ collection about "How do you choose your first Camino?" It takes you through a number of considerations in choosing a route.

 

[dougfitz]

Posts about an over-crowded Camino have me worried. I chose the CF for my 1st based upon the strong recommendations of the experienced pilgrims on this forum. I now understand and agree that the CF is the best in regards to infrastructure, community, etc. But if crowds cause it to be extremely unpleasant, then what?

I'm not sure what will help calm your fears here. Both my heart and my head say heed the advice you have already listened to select the CF in the first place, and the advice you are getting in this thread.

Why? Well, this is nothing new, but the concerns get amplified by discussions that happen pretty much every year I have been a forum member at this time of year. I have experienced it myself, and know what it is like to look into the face of my wife when she had just successfully descended the hill before Zubiri in early May to find there wasn't a single bed in town. I was able to begin my search strategy almost immediately, but she was distraught. I can imagine others like her venting their anger and disappointment, and that anger becoming a road block to effective action.

More, they will vent on forums like this, social media, etc. This venting subsides. Any theory I advance on why would be pop-psychology, but other new pilgrims seem to get the message, and don't express the same level of disappointment. More, other new pilgrims walking later will have had time to take advice on what strategies are available when faced with these circumstances, as will you, and feel more confident that they can handle these.

But also be aware that you can fall into the trap of believing that this is the permanent state of the Camino, in this case the CF. As a erstwhile school debater, we used to call this the PIG fallacy - arguing that the Particular Implies the General. The particular circumstances of May are well known, and have been explained several times already. I don't need to repeat them here. Those circumstances might repeat again later in the year, but I think it is unlikely to be in September. The European summer holidays normally taken around August will have ended which might explain that historically, pilgrim numbers have declined about this time. Typically, the number of Spanish pilgrims arriving in September almost halves, albeit the number of non-Spanish pilgrims remains at the same level for another month, and doesn't start to drop markedly till October.

How much heed should you pay to this? Well, I haven't walked the CF for a few years. My plans to walk the CP in 2020 to avoid the Holy Year increase were deferred until 2022, and this year I had the opportunity to do a short Camino, and walked from Valenca do Minho, not Saria. So I may not seem to be a good exemplar for my own advice. But you will also see that I have been interested in walking pilgrimage routes in Scandinavia and elsewhere in the world, and that my Caminos on the Iberian peninsula have always been in spring and early summer. So clearly I don't view this phenomena in May as insurmountable. It certainly doesn't appear to me to be as big an issue as your concerns seem to be making it when you plan to walk later in the year.

 

[markie6]

Given you are arriving 21st September.. I'd not change your plan for doing the Frances. Most of the tourists will have headed home by then. Many people will be back at work, kids back at schools etc

Early September can be very busy but.. and this to me is important. I don't think the Frances will get any quieter in the years to come. If not now ? when ? Some of the panic is overblown but there has been a lot of pent up demand due to the plague years

Ignore the scare stories, real or imagined and don't over think it.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I always recommend the Frances for first time pilgrims as it is very special in diversity of scenery, and there are bars and lodging choices around nearly every corner (I exaggerate, but only slightly). For women who are walking alone for the first time, there is the comfort that it won't be long until a group of pilgrims or a bar with outdoor red or white chairs comes into view and it will feel relief.

 

[sommerjule]

You might consider starting out on the Frances and later on switch to another route if you find the CF is too crowded for your personal taste/mood.

This is what I did on my first Camino. I had the same question before my Camino. Will there be too many people on the Frances, too few people and infrastructure on other routes?
In the end, I started on the Frances (in Spain) and switched to Via de la Plata after Sarria, because there were just too many people for the reflection I wanted for my Camino. I just went into the tourist office in the next town and asked for bus connections to the next town on VdlP. Worked perfect for me.
Good luck.

 

[KariannNor]

Well, I've done exactly as the headline asks, not just because it, but reading many descriptions of various routes. Decided to go Northern Way. Perhaps not the "right" thread to ask, but how do you feel about the accommodation options there compared to France? Has it also become as popular? probably an impossible question, but does anyone going there now having experience? sorry, but can't find threads with this exact theme.

 

[Kathor1]

accommodation options [on the Camino del Norte] there compared to France?

What do you want to compare? Accommodation situation on the Norte versus the Francés, say SJPP to Pamplona or a bit further, right now during the first week of May? The same question but for August? Or a comparison of now here versus there then when you plan to walk according to your profile information? A comparison for the whole distances or for selected sections and if so which ones?

 

[KariannNor]

I'm going to travel the last week of August. Predicting exact what it will be like then is as impossible as predicting what the weather will be like 3 months from now. But how crowded it is experienced now can perhaps give an indication, was my thought. I also wonder how it is experienced in the NW, is it as "usual" to spend nights in albergues, an "equal" proportion of pilgrims to other tourists?

 

[KariannNor]

And I'm considering about the last 12 stages/main stops, with a few days in between for sightseeing.

 

[Molly Cassidy]

I'm going to travel the last week of August. Predicting exact what it will be like then is as impossible as predicting what the weather will be like 3 months from now. But how crowded it is experienced now can perhaps give an indication, was my thought. I also wonder how it is experienced in the NW, is it as "usual" to spend nights in albergues, an "equal" proportion of pilgrims to other tourists?

The problem with the Northern route in August is that many places along the route are popular holiday destinations. So, while there will be fewer pilgrims, private albergues (those that accept tourists), pensions and hotels will be full of tourists and more expensive due to demand. Of course, there are still some places that only accept pilgrims, but not as many as on the Francés.

Once you get into September the tourist numbers drop.

 

[KariannNor]

The problem with the Northern route in August is that many places along the route are popular holiday destinations. So, while there will be fewer pilgrims, private albergues (those that accept tourists), pensions and hotels will be full of tourists and more expensive due to demand. Of course, there are still some places that only accept pilgrims, but not as many as on the Francés.

Once you get into September the tourist numbers drop.

Thanks, this was very useful information for me. I would very much like to decide on a route, Potoguese is also on my wish list. If you had to choose PC or NC Aug/Sept and were a beguinner, which would you choose? know everyone has personal preferences and maybe an impossible question. I want to see all the places and do any route, but don't want to walk in a queue or worry too much for where to spend the night.. (speaking spanish is ok, know some..)

 

[lt56ny]

Thoughtful comments, all. Thanks!

Reading your posts that you have written I would have to say that the idea that you walk a less traveled camino especially the Southern Ones like the VDLP or the Mozarabe would constitute a huge mistake for you. More planning is needed, as is more experience, the infrastructure is minut compared to the Frances or Portugues, very few other pilgrims and when you plan on leaving it would be brutally hot. A combination or some mix of the Primitivo, Salvador and Invierno may prove to be a difficult undertaking. Physically they are far more difficult than the Frances or the Portugues. The Le Puy Camino is beautiful and the food is great but again it is a more difficult camino especially the first few weeks. The same can be said of the Norte. For you I would have to totally agree with many of the others that have said stick with the CF, book the first few days to get your feet wet and then go for it. The Camino Portugues is also a good option.
Stick to more infrastructure and more warm and caring pilgrims.

 

[David Tallan]

Thanks, this was very useful information for me. I would very much like to decide on a route, Potoguese is also on my wish list. If you had to choose PC or NC Aug/Sept and were a beguinner, which would you choose? know everyone has personal preferences and maybe an impossible question. I want to see all the places and do any route, but don't want to walk in a queue or worry too much for where to spend the night.. (speaking spanish is ok, know some..)

I tend to advise Portugues over Norte for beginners. Admittedly it is based on what I have read rather than personal experience. The recommendation is based on more infrastructure on the CP and less physical challenge. It also depends on how much time you have.

 

[Holly West]

If not CF then which Camino?

Posts about an over-crowded Camino have me worried. I chose the CF for my 1st based upon the strong recommendations of the experienced pilgrims on this forum. I now understand and agree that the CF is the best in regards to infrastructure, community, etc. But if crowds cause it to be extremely unpleasant, then what?

I have come to realize that I probably wont make it to SDC this trip. I have around 40 actual walking days and out of those I will want to add rest days and/or very short days. My original plan was to start from Pamplona but I'd love to experience a little bit of France and the beauty of the Pyrenees so I adjusted my plans to begin in SJPdP.

I am flying into and out of Madrid - arriving Sept. 21 and departing Nov.2. I plan on overnights somewhere to recover from jetlag before beginning my Camino.

So- I am asking experienced pilgrims - what is your 2nd choice route(s) or variant(s) given the above, if CF is not doable? Just trying to have a back-up in place.

The Norte is spectacular as is the Camino Portuguese and I can tell you that right now it is very crowded on the Frances as we are in Leon and just have a fairly short amount left up to Sarria because we have done that last bit before. I shudder to think of how many people will be walking from Sarria to Santiago considering how busy the rest of this has been.

 

[trecile]

I shudder to think of how many people will be walking from Sarria to Santiago considering how busy the rest of this has been.

At this time of year it shouldn't be too crowded between Sarria and Santiago. It becomes more crowded in the summer, especially July and August with those walking only the last 100km, including lots of church, youth, and family groups as I detailed in this thread - https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-tale-of-two-caminos.80411/

 

[Duane]

I am on the French way right now. Left Burgos today. Not as much availability of private rooms as I found in 2019 but totally doable and enjoyable. Don’t let the rumors discourage you. The heard always gets a little over excited.

 

[MARSKA]

How much Spanish do you speak? While I have only walked the CF, I think the further you go from the amenities along it, the less English you can expect. The CF is totally manageable with little or no Spanish abilities.

I agree with the others. At the time you’re planning to walk, there wouldn’t be crowds along the CF. The people posting about crowded current conditions are describing the most popular season, or closely adjacent.

Good point about language and it;s something I have given a lot of thought. My Spanish isnt great. I'm refreshing in preparation but without extended time being immersed I will only be able to understand/ express simple phrases.

So- I am hearing that Sept IS the crowded season (although I'll be walking late Sept through the first of Nov).

 

[MARSKA]

What a great community! I am grateful for every last one of you! Excellent and insightful remarks from so many Pilgrims.

I am now asking myself why I was concerned and second-thinking my plan. You have helped me to understand that there is no reason to do so. I'm going all-in for an adventure of the heart, mind, and soul (and feet, and legs, and arms, and hips).

I am not concerned about finding a place to lay my head at night- I have slept outdoors many, many nights (albeit with a warmer bag and a sleeping pad) ... I know how to make do. And taxis and buses, etc.

I am more concerned about the unpleasantness of a crowded path - people in front, people behind - like walking on a street in Manhattan.

So... if I find myself in the middle of Camino Manhattan I'll go right or go left or just STOP. Plop my lil ole u-know-what right down and watch the crlowds go by.

“Take therefore no thought for the morrow: for the morrow shall take thought for the things of itself. Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof.” Matthew 6:34

It's all about trust. I'm beginning to understand.

 

[Esperanza]

So- I am hearing that Sept IS the crowded season (although I'll be walking late Sept through the first of Nov).

Early September is much busier than late September. You’re mainly walking in October, which is not considered a crowded season.

 

[oaklandgirl]

If not CF then which Camino?

Posts about an over-crowded Camino have me worried. I chose the CF for my 1st based upon the strong recommendations of the experienced pilgrims on this forum. I now understand and agree that the CF is the best in regards to infrastructure, community, etc. But if crowds cause it to be extremely unpleasant, then what?

I have come to realize that I probably wont make it to SDC this trip. I have around 40 actual walking days and out of those I will want to add rest days and/or very short days. My original plan was to start from Pamplona but I'd love to experience a little bit of France and the beauty of the Pyrenees so I adjusted my plans to begin in SJPdP.

I am flying into and out of Madrid - arriving Sept. 21 and departing Nov.2. I plan on overnights somewhere to recover from jetlag before beginning my Camino.

So- I am asking experienced pilgrims - what is your 2nd choice route(s) or variant(s) given the above, if CF is not doable? Just trying to have a back-up in place.

I am currently on the camino del Norte. Lots of climbing and once you leave Zarautz, accommodations become scarce until Bilbao. I did part of the Francis last year. Way different. Way easier in so many ways. I agree for first time out try to stick with Francis.

 

[David Tallan]

So- I am hearing that Sept IS the crowded season (although I'll be walking late Sept through the first of Nov).

I think it depends on where and when you walk. On the Camino Frances starting from SJPP, September is a crowded season (especially the first half of September). As we have been hearing, for this same route and starting point, late April/May is also a crowded season. On the other hand, for the same route starting in Sarria, July/August is the crowded season.

From what I've been reading, for SJPP season, late September into October is past peak.

 

[David Tallan]

I am more concerned about the unpleasantness of a crowded path - people in front, people behind - like walking on a street in Manhattan.

I wouldn't worry about that at all for your planned Camino. That, you are more likely to find between Sarria and Santiago in August. And even then there are strategies for avoiding the crowds. I've seen people walking in solitude during these last 100 km in those months. It is all about when you walk and where you stop.

 

[Grateful Gert]

I walked CF at almost your same dates in 2022. Yes there are people. no, I was never feeling overcrowded. There was always a bed. Many times just a few of us in a multi bed dorm. Do as suggested above.... book a bed through to Pamplona. After that you will be fine and yes you will have plenty of time to make your trek even with rest