The Camino gets confusing after Leon-- which way to go?

[Olivares]

I am studying the French Way (Camino Frances) route maps after Leon. It appears that heading out of Leon you can bare right towards Valverde de la Virgen or you can bear left towards Fresno del Camino. Eventually, both routes converge on Hospital de Orbigo, approximately 32 Kms from Leon.

I want to shoot for Hospital de Orbigo (HdO). WHICH route would you recommend? Say that I want to walk less that day, which town would you recommend as a good stop before HdO?

 

[mspath]

Olivares,

I have walked both many times and the alternate route is my favorite. However, be prepared for dreary walking right out of Leon. However, it is only 7 km to La Virgen del Camino and an extraordinary 20th century church. The town is named for a famous 15th century figure of the Virgin holding the dead body of Christ. Today the figure is in a splendid church designed in the 1960s by a Dominican monk, Francisco Coello, a follower of the Brutalist style of Le Corbusier. This is basically a glazed concrete box with giant stylized metal sculptures of the Apostles across the west façade. Located directly on the Camino Frances at Av Astorga, 87, in the midst of a chaotic suburb the church is a superbly maintained architectural gem as well as a haven of peace. Be sure to enter it; the calm interior is splendidly lit with deep chrome yellow glass. For more info see >> http://virgendelcamino.dominicos.es/webvirgen/

Opposite the church you can choose to either continue on the main CF which parallels the highway or pick up the peaceful alternative camino route going slightly southwest towards Villar de Mazarife. It is always very pleasant to escape the N120 highway noise and suburban sprawl while crossing wide flat plains up to V de M where there are several pilgrim albergues listed here on the Mundicamino site. Albergue Tio Pepe is where I usually stop. However, in autumn watch out for hunters shooting across the fields! From V d M the alternative camino continues to Hospital de Órbigo to rejoin the main CF. You can read more about the alternative route in this earlier Forum thread >> el-camino-frances/topic16883.html

Margaret Meredith

 

[Magwood]

Olivares,

I have walked both many times and the alternate route is my favorite........

Margaret Meredith

Hi Margaret, as someone who obviously knows this area very well, can you throw any light on the 'hobbit' houses that are in abundance on the outskirts of Leon and elsewhere. All to be seen from outside are the roofs of these buildings, the main part of the structure being underground. Do you know anything of their history and if they are specific to this area? They fascinated me at the time and I searched the Internet for information, but to no avail.

.......Camino Frances with my daughter - http://magwood.wordpress.com

 

[Olivares]

Margaret-- thanks for your kind reply and, specially, for the special note on the Virgen del Camino church. I now intend to head out towards Villar de Mazarife. The link to the past post was great, somehow I missed it.

The warning on hunters worry me, though.... I know somebody who was accidentally shot by a hunter and I don't even go out on my jogging route when it is hunting season around my neck of the woods. I am walking that route in early October. Should I be seriously concerned about this? Wouldn't this be a reason to take the other northerly route?

 

[mspath]

..."can you throw any light on the 'hobbit' houses that are in abundance on the outskirts of Leon and elsewhere"

Magwood,

The 'hobbit houses' which you pass on the hillsides leaving Leon especially in the area of Trobajo del Camino are partly underground wine cellars; usually these are called bodegas. Some are surprisingly large and provide space to sit, eat and drink besides storing wine.

Margaret Meredith

 

[mspath]

"...The warning on hunters worry me, though.... I am walking that route in early October. Should I be seriously concerned about this?"

Olivares,

Just be wary. I walked the alternate route last November and will again this November. Last year I saw shotgun casings on the ground and heard shots in the distance; hence I sang loudly while wearing my bright yellow highly visible jacket. So far so good.

MM

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I passed by the hunters and as far as I could see they were aware of the pilgrims. I spoke to some of them. There were hunters in other areas as well.

 

[gerardcarey]

However, be prepared for dreary walking right out of Leon.

Be prepared (if the spirit moves you) to catch the local bus from the centre of Leon 7k's to 'La Virgen del Camino'

 

[Deleted member 12253]

I am studying the French Way (Camino Frances) route maps after Leon. It appears that heading out of Leon you can bare right towards Valverde de la Virgen or you can bear left towards Fresno del Camino. Eventually, both routes converge on Hospital de Orbigo, approximately 32 Kms from Leon.

I want to shoot for Hospital de Orbigo (HdO). WHICH route would you recommend? Say that I want to walk less that day, which town would you recommend as a good stop before HdO?

Very easy to get out of Leon, if you walk from bus station to bridge , you are on camino, turn left and 1 hour to la virgin, I was there at 10am, kept walking to hospital de orbigo , stay away from road stage or you will be deaf from traffic noice , Buen camino

 

[nreyn12]

I highly recommend going left, via Villar de Mazarife, after Virgen del Camino. Having walked both routes twice, I can confirm that the trail via Villadangos del Paramo is dreadful, while the other way is quite pretty despite being mostly flat. Mazarife has three good albergues and is just 14 kilometers before Hospital de Orbigo. In Hospital de Orbigo you can stay at the FABULOUS Albergue Verde, a true oasis on the Camino.

 

[Olivares]

Thanks all for the very useful info and the confirmation of the recommended route towards Villar de Mazarife.

I enjoyed the "anchor" cities in the Camino Frances (Pamplona, Burgos, etc...), but coming in or leaving them was not particularly enjoyable. The walk into Burgos was pure torture. I tried to take the alternate and got lost after the roundabout the airport. Hence the extra efforts this time to familiarize ahead of time with the route leaving Leon.

Thanks again. Buen Camino!

 

[supersullivan]

just a little heads up on the alternative route via Vilar de Mazarif, leaving Vilar, there is a 5.8 km stretch of road walking on a straight as a die length of road with no shelter at all, learned the hard way not to do it in full afternoon heat but if you want to experience one of the best albergues on the C.F. carry on 3 km past H de O to Villares de Orbigo where Pablo and Belen offer a true pilgrim welcome with one the best dinners on the whole way.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

but if you want to experience one of the best albergues on the C.F. carry on 3 km past H de O to Villares de Orbigo where Pablo and Belen offer a true pilgrim welcome with one the best dinners on the whole way.

I agree to that. One of the very best on the whole Camino. Take a foot bath with salt as well.

 

[Kayci]

I am staying at Hotel Paris. How do I find the bus to take me to La Virgen del Camino?
58 days until I begin my Camino.
Kayci

 

[naplesdon]

There is a large plaza/roundabout west of the cathedral and your hotel, Plaza San Domingo, lots of traffic, lots of bus stops; that's where you will find the bus to Virgen del Camino.

 

[nc6000]

I highly recommend going left, via Villar de Mazarife, after Virgen del Camino. Having walked both routes twice, I can confirm that the trail via Villadangos del Paramo is dreadful, while the other way is quite pretty despite being mostly flat. Mazarife has three good albergues and is just 14 kilometers before Hospital de Orbigo. In Hospital de Orbigo you can stay at the FABULOUS Albergue Verde, a true oasis on the Camino.

Yes, the route via Villadangos is awful. Long and very boring.

 

[Sraaen]

I am studying the French Way (Camino Frances) route maps after Leon. It appears that heading out of Leon you can bare right towards Valverde de la Virgen or you can bear left towards Fresno del Camino. Eventually, both routes converge on Hospital de Orbigo, approximately 32 Kms from Leon.

I want to shoot for Hospital de Orbigo (HdO). WHICH route would you recommend? Say that I want to walk less that day, which town would you recommend as a good stop before HdO?

Hi Olivares, I've been playing with programming maps and put this together. It has a kml track and if you select from the upper left box it will zoom into a village and display street view. Drag the yellow "Peg Man" to change street view. It's just a hobby but maybe it'll help. It's meant to work on a desktop/laptop browser and am told it looks okay on a tablet. It doesn't work well on my phone.
http://steveport.com/caminodesantiago

 

[indyinmaine]

There is a large plaza/roundabout west of the cathedral and your hotel, Plaza San Domingo, lots of traffic, lots of bus stops; that's where you will find the bus to Virgen del Camino.

There are a number of bus stops on the plaza. You want the one closest to the cathedral, right by a bank. Just ask the driver. It's well worth "missing" the walk out of Leon but it doesn't get much better if you don't take the alternate route. If I could have added an extra day I think I would have chosen to avoid that "car dealer - factory - unfinished condos" stretch.

 

[Olivares]

http://steveport.com/caminodesantiago

Sraaen-- this is one of the BEST Google maps focused on the Camino that I have seen (...and there has been several worthy attempts!). Definitely a keeper!! Many thanks for sharing!!!

 

[camino-david]

Some times there is confusion about the start of the two routes. Just after walking over the old bridge immediately after leaving las Virgen there are painted yellow arrows on the bitumen road indicating left to the route to Hospital, whereas the boring route goes to the right and follows the main road. From the old bridge you can see the path to Hospital to the left and up the hill.

 

[Sraaen]

Sraaen-- this is one of the BEST Google maps focused on the Camino that I have seen (...and there has been several worthy attempts!). Definitely a keeper!! Many thanks for sharing!!!

Mighty kind of you to say so. Buenas todo!

 

[Lockslay]

Sraaen-- this is one of the BEST Google maps focused on the Camino that I have seen (...and there has been several worthy attempts!). Definitely a keeper!! Many thanks for sharing!!!

YEEESSSS, thanks for this map - amazing.

 

[Bernard duffy]

I agree to that. One of the very best on the whole Camino. Take a foot bath with salt as well.

What is the name of this Alberque ?

 

[Olivares]

What is the name of this Alberque ?

 

[Sraaen]

YEEESSSS, thanks for this map - amazing.

You're welcome and thanks for the compliment!

 

[Bernard duffy]

Many thank's,did you make a pre booking ? ))

 

[Olivares]

Many thank's,did you make a pre booking ? ))

I did not stayed there, but heard good things. There are only 26 beds, you can ask if they accept reservations and how far in advance at info@alberguevillaresdeorbigo.com
or call them at 34 98 713 2935. Buen Camino!!

 

[Bernard duffy]

I did not stayed there, but heard good things. There are only 26 beds, you can ask if they accept reservations and how far in advance at info@alberguevillaresdeorbigo.com
or call them at 34 98 713 2935. Buen Camino!!

Thak you n buen Camino )

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Thanks for the video. So funny, she points at my note in the guestbook

 

[Alyssa]

There are a number of bus stops on the plaza. You want the one closest to the cathedral, right by a bank. Just ask the driver. It's well worth "missing" the walk out of Leon but it doesn't get much better if you don't take the alternate route. If I could have added an extra day I think I would have chosen to avoid that "car dealer - factory - unfinished condos" stretch.

Thanks for this great info for catching the bus to Virgen del Camino. I found the bus stop right in front of the bank, asked a driver for help and was told by him to wait for the blue line. I had a little difficulty distinguishing the bus colors but a woman waiting helped me out.

I payed 1,40E and am now headed out of Leon towArd Virgen where I will take the left route and walk to Hospital de Orbigo. The only question now is whether to stay at Albergue Verde or Albergue Villares...

 

[Alyssa]

I ended up having a bit of a tough time finding my way after viewing the stunning modern church in Virgen. But I did eventually find the route that goes through the countryside rather than along the highway. I was so grateful to have that information from this forum; everyone I knew who took the highway route regretted it.

(The next day there are also two options; one through the countryside and one along the highway, both ending up in Astorga. Once again, I was pleased with my walk while my friends who took the shirt way along the highway were not thrilled).

 

[jmcarp]

Albergue Pablo y Belen was also one of our favorites, although we stayed there on a Monday night and they do not cook on Monday. We had dinner at that café/bar across the street. We did have a great American-style breakfast of bacon and eggs on Tuesday morning, though. Coincidentally we stayed in the same room as you, overlooking the street. The large room was occupied by a family group of 8 persons, and the smaller private room was occupied by a lovely Japanese couple with whom we scotch-hopped the rest of the Camino, eventually sharing a glass of champagne in Santiago. It was one of the cleanest albergues we stayed at; the bathrooms were immaculate.

 

[Thengel1]

The only drawback to the alternate route is the lack of shade. How little shade is there, you ask? Well, let's put it this way, after walking out of Mazarife around noon, I was so happy to see a little bridge with a tree providing some shade, I took a picture of it. And this was in mid to late April, when you wouldn't think the sun would be that big a deal.

 

[jmcarp]

The only drawback to the alternate route is the lack of shade...

Of course the same could be said for many kilometers before this stretch and many kilometers after it. Don't let that be a deterrent. The worst part of the alternate route, IMO and as someone else mentioned, is the 5.8 km between Vilar de Mazarife and the crossroads called Cruce. It's an arrow-straight, foot pounding stretch of asphalt pavement with hardly any shoulder to walk on. Fortunately there was very little traffic when we walked it.

 

[GigiO]

Mighty kind of you to say so. Buenas todo!

Hi Olivares, I've been playing with programming maps and put this together. It has a kml track and if you select from the upper left box it will zoom into a village and display street view. Drag the yellow "Peg Man" to change street view. It's just a hobby but maybe it'll help. It's meant to work on a desktop/laptop browser and am told it looks okay on a tablet. It doesn't work well on my phone.
http://steveport.com/caminodesantiago

This link doesn't appear to work any longer. Do you possibly have a new link?

 

[trecile]

That post was from 2014, and that member hasn't been on the forum since 2017.