BP on the Invierno July 2022: A diary

[Bad Pilgrim]

Dear people,

I walked my annual Camino de Invierno between the 11 and the 18 of July this year (2022). I kept a diary of which I publish a summary below. You will get it in bits because it is too long to read… Expletives, wild animal attacks and revelling in napolitanas have been left out. First a few general notes and a comparison with last year's Invierno:

Kilometers: The distance to Santiago is now engraved on the mojones (the granite waymarks). The distance was not there last year (beginning of July 2021). Everything looks brand new and no mojón has been damaged/defaced - except one. I think you can guess which one. We will get to that later.

Embellishment: The Xunta and/or the villagers really stepped up since last year. The places where the Camino goes have been prettified. One example: there is now a Pilgrim's Bench, Banco peregrino, in several villages and hamlets. It is a large, yellow bench in the shape of an arrow; you will see them when you walk by. There are more info boards, waymarks, signs, quirky handicraft, flowerpots and what have you to emphasize the Camino, especially in the small villages. There is also a sense of general cleanup. Above all, a cleanup of dogs. I imagine the Xunta ushered an order to the villagers to chain the dogs, lock them up, or deport them to the Castilian border. I only met aggressive dogs before Quiroga and Belesar, nowhere else.

Wildfires? I was lucky not to experience any of it. Less than a week later (July 18) I see the Valdeorras region, Quiroga and Pobra do Brollón having problems. Trains between Galicia and Madrid have been cancelled or substituted with other means of transport. Watch the news and ask the locals if the Camino de Invierno is affected, if you are walking any time soon!

But let's get down to business.

Day 0: Ponferrada. I arrived with the night bus from Mérida at 9.30 a.m. I stayed at Hostal Río Selmo, 35 euros. The cheapest alternatives are of course the albergues San Nicolás de Flüe (parochial), Alea (private) and Guiana (private) but I can't stand the snoring. Guiana has an amazing breakfast (in 2018 when I stayed there) if you are into those kinds of things. I spent large part of the day in the cafés in the old town watching pilgrims arrive. They wear their bathroom, kitchen and livingroom on their backs, and judging by their boots they plan to walk through the Amazon jungle. I got tendonitis just by looking at them. I wanted to run some errands to Decathlon. But it was Sunday and it was closed, as was much of the rest of town… I went to bed early to be well rested before my first stage the following day.

To be continued

 

[jungleboy]

but I can't stand the snoring.

I know there are a million threads on this and I don't want to hijack yours, but I use wax earplugs in albergues and I can't hear a thing when I put them in. While I realise that these might not work as well for everyone, it would be a shame if people were avoiding albergues solely for this reason when there may be a very simple fix. FWIW, I find foam earplugs to be worthless.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I know there are a million threads on this and I don't want to hijack yours, but I use wax earplugs in albergues and I can't hear a thing when I put them in. While I realise that these might not work as well for everyone, it would be a shame if people were avoiding albergues solely for this reason when there may be a very simple fix. FWIW, I find foam earplugs to be worthless.

I have tried a lot and it still doesn't keep the noise out. I happily take advice!

 

[El Cascayal]

I walked my annual Camino de Invierno

Bad Pilgrim, this is oh so good. A scathingly brilliant idea, I too would love to the yearly!

 

[C clearly]

no mojón has been damaged/defaced - except one. I think you can guess which one.

I know! The distance plaque is striking in its absence.

 

[gittiharre]

Dear people,

I walked my annual Camino de Invierno between the 11 and the 18 of July this year (2022). I kept a diary of which I publish a summary below. You will get it in bits because it is too long to read… Expletives, wild animals attacks and revelling in napolitanas have been left out. First a few general notes and a comparison with last year's Invierno:

Kilometers: The distance to Santiago is now engraved on the mojones (the granite waymarks). The distance was not there last year (beginning of July 2021). Everything looks brand new and no mojón has been damaged/defaced - except one. I think you can guess which one. We will get to that later.

Embellishment: The Xunta and/or the villagers really stepped up since last year. The places where the Camino goes have been prettified. One example: there is now a Pilgrim's Bench, Banco peregrino, in several villages and hamlets. It is a large, yellow bench in the shape of an arrow; you will see them when you walk by. There are more info boards, waymarks, signs, quirky handicraft, flowerpots and what have you to emphasize the Camino, especially in the small villages. There is also a sense of general cleanup. Above all, a cleanup of dogs. I imagine the Xunta ushered an order to the villagers to chain the dogs, lock them up, or deport them to the Castilian border. I only met aggressive dogs before Quiroga and Belesar, nowhere else.

Wildfires? I was lucky not to experience any of it. Less than a week later (July 18) I see the Valdeorras region, Quiroga and Pobra do Brollón having problems. Trains between Galicia and Madrid have been cancelled or substituted with other means of transport. Watch the news and ask the locals if the Camino de Invierno is affected, if you are walking any time soon!

But let's get down to business.

Day 0: Ponferrada. I arrived with the night bus from Mérida at 9.30 a.m. I stayed at Hostal Río Selmo, 35 euros. The cheapest alternatives are of course the albergues San Nicolás de Flüe (parochial), Alea (private) and Guiana (private) but I can't stand the snoring. Guiana has an amazing breakfast (in 2018 when I stayed there) if you are into those kinds of things. I spent large part of the day in the cafés in the old town watching pilgrims arrive. They wear their bathroom, kitchen and livingroom on their backs, and judging by their boots they plan to walk through the Amazon jungle. I got tendonitis just by looking at them. I wanted to run some errands to Decathlon. But it was Sunday and it was closed, as was much of the rest of town… I went to bed early to be well rested before my first stage the following day.

To be continued

I would really like to hear about wild animal attacks too though....

 

[El Cascayal]

I would really like to hear about wild animal attacks too though....

Is this referring to Peregrin@s after too many Estrella de Galicias?

 

[VNwalking]

To be continued

Oh boy! Can't wait to read about your impressions.

It sounds like everyone along the Invierno spent Covid-time getting ready for an inundation of pilgrims. With Sir John's recent guidebook, it may finally happen. I'm sorry to know that the mojon was defaced - a sure sign of change along the way. In 2019 there was none of that at all. D**n Sharpie brigade - I wish they'd stay home and write on their own walls instead.

 

[gittiharre]

Dear people,

I walked my annual Camino de Invierno between the 11 and the 18 of July this year (2022). I kept a diary of which I publish a summary below. You will get it in bits because it is too long to read… Expletives, wild animal attacks and revelling in napolitanas have been left out. First a few general notes and a comparison with last year's Invierno:

Kilometers: The distance to Santiago is now engraved on the mojones (the granite waymarks). The distance was not there last year (beginning of July 2021). Everything looks brand new and no mojón has been damaged/defaced - except one. I think you can guess which one. We will get to that later.

Embellishment: The Xunta and/or the villagers really stepped up since last year. The places where the Camino goes have been prettified. One example: there is now a Pilgrim's Bench, Banco peregrino, in several villages and hamlets. It is a large, yellow bench in the shape of an arrow; you will see them when you walk by. There are more info boards, waymarks, signs, quirky handicraft, flowerpots and what have you to emphasize the Camino, especially in the small villages. There is also a sense of general cleanup. Above all, a cleanup of dogs. I imagine the Xunta ushered an order to the villagers to chain the dogs, lock them up, or deport them to the Castilian border. I only met aggressive dogs before Quiroga and Belesar, nowhere else.

Wildfires? I was lucky not to experience any of it. Less than a week later (July 18) I see the Valdeorras region, Quiroga and Pobra do Brollón having problems. Trains between Galicia and Madrid have been cancelled or substituted with other means of transport. Watch the news and ask the locals if the Camino de Invierno is affected, if you are walking any time soon!

But let's get down to business.

Day 0: Ponferrada. I arrived with the night bus from Mérida at 9.30 a.m. I stayed at Hostal Río Selmo, 35 euros. The cheapest alternatives are of course the albergues San Nicolás de Flüe (parochial), Alea (private) and Guiana (private) but I can't stand the snoring. Guiana has an amazing breakfast (in 2018 when I stayed there) if you are into those kinds of things. I spent large part of the day in the cafés in the old town watching pilgrims arrive. They wear their bathroom, kitchen and livingroom on their backs, and judging by their boots they plan to walk through the Amazon jungle. I got tendonitis just by looking at them. I wanted to run some errands to Decathlon. But it was Sunday and it was closed, as was much of the rest of town… I went to bed early to be well rested before my first stage the following day.

To be continued

Tell me about aggressive dogs?
Were they tied up?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Tell me about aggressive dogs?
Were they tied up?

There were aggressive dogs and loose dogs - just not at the same time! Yes if they were barking they were tied up or behind a fence. Maybe it was just the day that I walked by and other pilgrims will have another experience...

When I say Quiroga and Belesar it was just the usual stuff: they behaved aggressively but nothing more happened!

 

[gittiharre]

There were aggressive dogs and loose dogs - just not at the same time! Yes if they were barking they were tied up or behind a fence. Maybe it was just the day that I walked by and other pilgrims will have another experience...

When I say Quiroga and Belesar it was just the usual stuff: they behaved aggressively but nothing more happened!

I hate that. Had one incident on Primitivo, where a dog had me stuck next to a farmhouse, could not move back or forward. I just stood there for 15 mins with dog growling and gnashing teeth, spurred on by 2 aggressive tied up mates. Luckily a group of pilgrims with big walking sticks came and we managed to pass as a group.

 

[C clearly]

Belesar

By any chance, were there two smallish loose dogs at the top of the hill after Belesar? Those were the only problem ones I encountered on the Invierno in May.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

By any chance, were there two smallish loose dogs at the top of the hill after Belesar? Those were the only problem ones I encountered on the Invierno in May.

No, not there. But before the descent to Belesar, after the turn from Diomondi. There are a couple of houses and a herd of sheep or goats... The owner was there all the time but the dog wouldn't listen to him!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 1: Ponferrada - Puente de Domingo Flórez. As it was Monday, every bar I saw until Las Médulas was closed. Not the best day of the week to start the Camino. I thought about taking the short detour to Carucedos, before Las Médulas, but according to Google Maps the cafés were closed there as well. I didn't suffer too much though. I was so happy to be back on the Invierno, and positively surprised by the lack of snarling dogs along the way!

Hostal La Torre in Puente de Domingo Flórez would charge 42 euros for a room. Too expensive. I don't think La Torre should keep advertising "pilgrim prices'' on a billboard at the entrance to town if that's what a room costs. But maybe the cheaper rooms were already taken.

I phoned the Latvian, extremely pilgrim-friendly Albergue Rosa. Donativo. It is almost perfect. But there is no fridge (only a small one that is reserved for the beverages that the albergue offers?). There is no AC and you cannot open the large window in the dormitory. Not even draw a curtain! Not that we needed to: the room kept cool during the heatwave. On my way here, and in the Albergue Rosa, I met José who also started in Ponferrada. José is young and fit and walks like an elite marine, not a roly-poly two-legged blob like me. Impossible to keep up with him!

Day 2: Puente de Domingo Flórez - A Rúa. The waymarks along the riverwalk in O Barco are really bad. At the little wooden bridge there is no sign saying you should cross it. A modern waymark (ceramic on the wall) earlier during the riverwalk was pointing into town? Does it lead to the albergue? A newbie on the Invierno will surely miss the bridge. I was about to explore the way that the modern waymark pointed me to. Then I changed my mind and instead walked along the river to the little bridge, because I know my way from previous Caminos. Arrows appeared after this. Gronze also only mentions you should cross the wooden bridge.

In A Rúa, history repeated itself. Just like last year Pensión Fabio (exquisite, fabulous) was completo the whole week and hostal O Pillabán (never stayed there) didn't answer. I ended up in Hostal Niza again: 25 euros. A bit too expensive, I think. But it is ok. No AC, no fan. I didn't sleep much during the tropical night.

To be continued

 

[StephenHLanark]

By any chance, were there two smallish loose dogs at the top of the hill after Belesar? Those were the only problem ones I encountered on the Invierno in May.

I encountered the same dogs there in May 2022, but there were 4 of them. Angry dogs were a regular nuisance on the Invierno

 

[laineylainey]

So happy to read your journey @Bad Pilgrim , as I hope do it after the Madrid in September. Looking forward to hearing if there is now an Albergue at A Pobra de Bollón?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

So happy to read your journey @Bad Pilgrim , as I hope do it after the Madrid in September. Looking forward to hearing if there is now an Albergue at A Pobra de Bollón?

Gronze says there probably will be this year, but who knows ... I forgot to ask them, since I had my mind set on Monforte. There is zero accomodation in A Pobra according to Gronze. As soon as there is an albergue, I know Gronze will update the page!

 

[laineylainey]

Gronze says there probably will be this year, but who knows ... I forgot to ask them, since I had my mind set on Monforte. There is zero accomodation in A Pobra according to Gronze. As soon as there is an albergue, I know Gronze will update the page!

Then it is likely to be Salcedo for me!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 3: A Rúa - Quiroga. I was starting to notice how prettified the Camino is in the villages. For example in the half-deserted Montefurado. Decorations and handicraft, the Pilgrim's Bench on full display, streets a little more cleaned up than usual… 50 mtrs after the Centro Social (closed) a handmade sign saying "Sello" (Stamp) and... Café?? A café in Montefurado really would be great! But I saw no trace of it when I walked by.

This is an isolated stretch with no food. But water is available along the way: in Alvaredos (but I didn't check), Montefurado, Bendilló and Soldón (at the rest area under the bridge).

Hostal Dimar in Quiroga has disappeared from Gronze, sadly. I stayed for a third time at Hostal Quiper which has been renovated since last year. Uhm, but they forgot to install the AC? 24 euros. Kind owners. Señora Helpful asked me if I would like an electric fan in the room…? Yes please!

As usual there was a mob of malignant school children and anemic teachers at the Albergue de Quiroga, and in the rest of town. José said he could stay at the albergue anyway "because I have earplugs". Honey child… In the end he stayed at Quiper.

Day 4: Quiroga - Monforte de Lemos. Appalling, ghastly. Wildfires have ravaged the woods between Nocedo and Carballo de Lor. I did some research; it must have happened last year… The hills are naked miles around. I was speechless. From Carballo de Lor nature was back to normal, but for how long?? This used to be my favorite part of the Invierno, now reduced to dust. (There is a patch of the thick woods left unharmed on the way down from the ridge, but everything else is gone). I was heartbroken, devastated.

Before entering Monforte de Lemos there are now two alternatives and an info panel: left or right. I took the right alternative that would be shorter but also have more "scenic value" (valor paisajístico). Future pilgrims can tell me exactly where this scenic value is. There was a few hundred meters to a railway crossing, then I turned left on a suburban sidewalk into Chantada.

I stayed at Pensión Miño, 20 euros. José went to the new albergue, but I really wanted to go to Miño because it was fully booked last time I was here. It is kind of my go-to place in Monforte.

The tropical heat gave way to a terrible thunderstorm in the evening. The sky went black, rain poured down and the lights went out in town. Traffic chaos ensued. I spent a quarter of an hour in a dark Gadis Supermarket together with three other customers, a frightened dog and an even more frightened shop assistant who were all unable to leave in the torrential rain. Finally I took a deep breath and ran back to Miño that was only 200 mtrs away - and I arrived soaked to the bone.

To be continued

 

[peregrina2000]

As usual there was a mob of malignant school children and anemic teachers at the Albergue de Quiroga, and in the rest of town.

You are a magnet for screaming children. I’ve stayed at the Quiper 3 or 4 times and have never even seen anyone go in or out of the albergue. Glad you took the non-albergue option!
Have you ever gone to the Casa Aroza for a great meal?

Before entering Monforte de Lemos there are now two alternatives and an info panel: left or right. I took the right alternative that would be shorter but also have more "scenic value" (valor paisajístico).

Does this have anything to do with avoiding the spot through the green tunnel that is permanently flooded and where numbers of pilgrims have fallen into mud? (losing their dignity but fortunately never getting injured)

Thanks so much for these updates, BP. I see that fires have been burning near Pobra de Brollón, as well as earlier in the route, so it may be that the Invierno is going to have a scorched earth look for the foreseeable future. This is so sad.

 

[laineylainey]

Thanks so so much @Bad Pilgrim and other veterans of this wonderful sounding/looking route. The information and chat feels like a group reunion around a big table, maybe in Casa Aroza? Wine, water and food with great Camino chat, simply divine!
I hope to walk it in September. Just a real wimpy question....is there much asphalt walking on the Invierno?

 

[peregrina2000]

I hope to walk it in September. Just a real wimpy question....is there much asphalt walking on the Invierno?

I know some people have found there to be a lot — here is one pilgrim’s opinion. But I can’t think of one stage that is primarily asphalt. There have been some re-routings (@C clearly recently described one going into A Rúa) and after A Rúa there was a lot taken off road the last time I walked. Maybe I am less aware of it now that I am walking in trail runners and the asphalt doesn’t beat up on my feet as much. Or maybe it was that there were dirt shoulders along a lot of the roads. But in any event, it doesn’t jump out at me like it does on the Norte. Surely there’s nothing like the many kms the Norte has along the national highway. On the Invierno you’re usually many kms away from a national highway, so the roads are minor and untraveled, which makes a difference.

Running through the stages in my head, here are places I remember asphalt (I may be forgetting some, but other better memories can chime in).

— Through some of the small towns before Villavieja
— from the castle of Cornatel to Borrenes
— into Sobradelo (but very pleasant)
— into Barco de Valdeorras from about 6 or 7 km out (less pleasant)
— after A Rúa above the river (here’s where there’s been a lot of re-routing)
— into and out of Quiroga
— from Monforte to the pazo
— from Torre Vilariño to Diomondi
— from Belesar to Chantada (with some nice off-road)
— a couple of kms from Rodeiro to the turnoff

When in September are you planning to walk? I think you’ll love it, @laineylainey. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[laineylainey]

Hi Laurie, thanks so for that. I hope to walk the Madrid starting 7th Sept and then the Invierno starting around 23rd September.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Have you ever gone to the Casa Aroza for a great meal?

No, but the staff at Quiper keep reminding me about it. I never went there! My restaurant of choice in Quiroga is still called Día Supermercado ...!

Does this have anything to do with avoiding the spot through the green tunnel that is permanently flooded

No, if you are talking about the previous muddy section before Reigada. This section is long gone now. I don't see how it could get muddy again, not any more than any dirt road at least! The info panel and the two alternatives come later, right before entering Monforte. I think the left alternative is the original way, and I would recommend pilgrims to go left. It is slightly longer but we are not talking kms here, maybe 1 km at most, or a couple of 100 mtrs. I believe it is there that you see the castle on the hill as you enter town - much more scenic than the way to the right!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

is there much asphalt walking on the Invierno?

But I can’t think of one stage that is primarily asphalt.

That depends how many stages you walk and how you divide them. Laurie's observation is probably right, but I would add that the whole stage Monforte - Chantada is mostly (more than 50 %) on asphalt. There is a lot of it on A Rúa - Quiroga as well: more than 7 kms to Alvaredos, then long stretches before Bendilló... But just like Laurie I walk in trail runners so I rarely think of it.

 

[laineylainey]

Thanks for that. I have always worn hiking boots or shoes, so perhaps it's time to change footwear! Any brand you would recommend?

 

[Mycroft]

Dear people,

I walked my annual Camino de Invierno between the 11 and the 18 of July this year (2022). I kept a diary of which I publish a summary below. You will get it in bits because it is too long to read… Expletives, wild animal attacks and revelling in napolitanas have been left out. First a few general notes and a comparison with last year's Invierno:

Kilometers: The distance to Santiago is now engraved on the mojones (the granite waymarks). The distance was not there last year (beginning of July 2021). Everything looks brand new and no mojón has been damaged/defaced - except one. I think you can guess which one. We will get to that later.

Embellishment: The Xunta and/or the villagers really stepped up since last year. The places where the Camino goes have been prettified. One example: there is now a Pilgrim's Bench, Banco peregrino, in several villages and hamlets. It is a large, yellow bench in the shape of an arrow; you will see them when you walk by. There are more info boards, waymarks, signs, quirky handicraft, flowerpots and what have you to emphasize the Camino, especially in the small villages. There is also a sense of general cleanup. Above all, a cleanup of dogs. I imagine the Xunta ushered an order to the villagers to chain the dogs, lock them up, or deport them to the Castilian border. I only met aggressive dogs before Quiroga and Belesar, nowhere else.

Wildfires? I was lucky not to experience any of it. Less than a week later (July 18) I see the Valdeorras region, Quiroga and Pobra do Brollón having problems. Trains between Galicia and Madrid have been cancelled or substituted with other means of transport. Watch the news and ask the locals if the Camino de Invierno is affected, if you are walking any time soon!

But let's get down to business.

Day 0: Ponferrada. I arrived with the night bus from Mérida at 9.30 a.m. I stayed at Hostal Río Selmo, 35 euros. The cheapest alternatives are of course the albergues San Nicolás de Flüe (parochial), Alea (private) and Guiana (private) but I can't stand the snoring. Guiana has an amazing breakfast (in 2018 when I stayed there) if you are into those kinds of things. I spent large part of the day in the cafés in the old town watching pilgrims arrive. They wear their bathroom, kitchen and livingroom on their backs, and judging by their boots they plan to walk through the Amazon jungle. I got tendonitis just by looking at them. I wanted to run some errands to Decathlon. But it was Sunday and it was closed, as was much of the rest of town… I went to bed early to be well rested before my first stage the following day.

To be continued

Thanks for this. Looking forward to reading more!!

 

[VNwalking]

I ended up in Hostal Niza again: 25 euros. A bit too expensive, I think. But it is ok. No AC, no fan. I didn't sleep much during the tropical night.

But I bet the couple who run it remembered you and you probably got your ear talked off by the chatty Señora! They are actually a very fond memory of my time on the Invierno.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Thanks for that. I have always worn hiking boots or shoes, so perhaps it's time to change footwear! Any brand you would recommend?

I never think of the brand, just that it has to be trail runners and that they are comfortable. They will get soaked in rain, but they dry just as easily!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 5: Monforte de Lemos - Chantada. There was thunder and lightning even in the morning, in the hills and the woods before Belesar. José caught up with me and we walked together for a while. How time flies when you have someone to talk to…! That's not common on the Invierno, at least not for me. We were closing in on Diomondi in no time! Finally I let him run: he was aiming for Hotel Vilaseco in Peñasillas that day, while I would stop in Chantada.

*FLASH! BREAKING NEWS!* Café No Río in Chantada, which was for sale last year, is resurrected as Tapería adaRosa (yes, adaRosa with lowercase letter). It is still the best location in town for a bar: near the cool river, peaceful setting… Señora Rosa (?) has taken over No Río's bohemian style; maybe a little more sober. I was dead when I arrived in the midday heat, having crawled up the murderous hill from Belesar on all fours. Señora Rosa recognized my distress and offered me a cold soup of fruits: refreshing, delicious. Do not miss this place! I was on my way to eat there in the evening as well, but pizzería O Agocho (spectacular) in central Chantada thwarted my plan.

I stayed in hostal/albergue DPaso. It opened in March this year. Five stars. A luxury, for 19 euros. New, modern, clean, functional, cool, quiet. My first encounter with one of those sleeping pods that have become popular on the Caminos. This was the best sleep I had on the Camino this year!

Day 6: Chantada - Rodeiro. With the distance to Santiago now engraved on the waymarks, I wondered where the "km 100" would be. I remember discussions on this Forum on the topic. Some people thought it would be at Diomondi, before Chantada. But long before the Monforte-Chantada stage I did the math in my head and deduced that it would be impossible to have the 100 kms marker anywhere near Diomondi. In fact, Diomondi is marked as 112 kms from Santiago. You have to go past Chantada to find the 100 kms marker, on an anonymous stretch in the woods between Centulle and Peñasillas. I took a picture:



Someone already carved out the plaque, of course! It is the only waymark that has been damaged. From Ponferrada and onwards there are no stolen ceramics, no graffiti, no nada on the mojones. I wonder how long it will last…

I went up to Monte do Faro, for the first time in sunshine and clear skies. And as always, on my way down, I met the farmer with his two nice dogs and a sea of cows and calves on the road. In A Feira, the bar O Recanto is closed on Saturdays so no café between Chantada and Rodeiro. (I didn't dare to ring the bell of the on-and-off bar in Peñasillas since I was early, and it was Saturday.)

In Rodeiro I stayed at the albergue in the bar Carpinteiras which is pretty much the only game in town. 12 euros. José is already way ahead of me in Lalín, but there are three other pilgrims here. There are probably more pilgrims in the individual rooms as they were all snatched before I arrived. The owner told me what I already knew: to be sure to get an individual room (27 euros) I should have called at least two days ahead.

To be continued

 

[laineylainey]

@Bad Pilgrim did you or anyone else stay in the newish A Posa de Asma Albergue in the past? That place you stayed in Dpaso looks fantastic!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

@Bad Pilgrim did you or anyone else stay in the newish A Posa de Asma Albergue in the past? That place you stayed in Dpaso looks fantastic!

I haven't stayed at A Pousa do Asma but when I read the description and the reviews it sounds a lot like DPaso. When I see the pictures it looks like A Pousa has the usual bunkbeds together in one dormitory, while DPaso has a kind of sleeping pods (two beds/pods in each '"room") which gives you more privacy. I was alone in my department with the two beds, so it was almost like an individual room!

 

[laineylainey]

I haven't stayed at A Pousa do Asma but when I read the description and the reviews it sounds a lot like DPaso. When I see the pictures it looks like A Pousa has the usual bunkbeds together in one dormitory, while DPaso has a kind of sleeping pods (two beds/pods in each '"room") which gives you more privacy. I was alone in my department with the two beds, so it was almost like an individual room!

Sounds lovely, did you get breakfast?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Sounds lovely, did you get breakfast?

No! But I leave so early that it doesn't matter and I never ask. That said... When I left early in the morning there were bread, some pastry and thingies on the kitchen counter... Fruits... But I think it is there all the time and you can grab whatever you want in the kitchen once you stay there?? I spoke a lot with the owner about the albergue but I forgot to ask about the kitchen... She did ask me casually if I wanted a coffee when I arrived so I sheepishly interpret that as "just help yourself"....

 

[VNwalking]

Haha, I see I missed a lot yesterday!

As usual there was a mob of malignant school children and anemic teachers at the Albergue de Quiroga, and in the rest of town. José said he could stay at the albergue anyway "because I have earplugs". Honey child… In the end he stayed at Quiper.

And as always, on my way down, I met the farmer with his two nice dogs and a sea of cows and calves on the road. I

I met neither kids not shepherd. Blessed on one hand, and hoping to meet the latter on the other! And Casimiro too, at prettified Montefurado.

ostal/albergue DPaso.

Oh! Wonderful news. I really liked Chantada, and think next time to do a nice slow amble, Monforte-Torre Vilarino-Diomondi-Chantada. I loved this whole part of the Invierno and am happy there are now ways to linger here.

Appalling, ghastly....
I was heartbroken, devastated.

Oh, so sad. This was beautiful in its own way.
But dangerous. When I went through there I thought that the monoculture of pines was a fire waiting to happen. I hope those who plant trees as crops wake up to the irresponsibility of trying to grow potential forest fire fuel like wheat.

it may be that the Invierno is going to have a scorched earth look for the foreseeable future. This is so sad.

Soon nature will start covering the wounds we make. Look at Las Medulas. Can you imagine how awful it would have looked when the mining was happening? And next to this a forest fire is nothing. We just have to wait a little while.

is there much asphalt

Yes as others have said, but usually there was hardly any traffic, and a softer shoulder to walk on.

No, if you are talking about the previous muddy section before Reigada. This section is long gone now.

I am glad to have experienced this in all its glory, and to have come through unscathed.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 7: Rodeiro - Silleda. There were no muddy parts in the woods between Rodeiro and Lalín. And for the first time: not a single loose-aggressive dog. Time flew by…

I ran into the hospitalero in A Laxe who was doing some extra cleaning since yesterday's load of pilgrims had made a mess, according to him. This was later contradicted by the chatty owner of the bar a few hundred mtrs up the road. She said that the hospitalero is a lazy bum who complains about everything! I had a good laugh listening to this lady as she informed me about the latest gossip and drama, twists and turns surrounding the maintenance of the albergue. She was adamant there is no plague of mosquitos in there any more! Well I believe that when I see it… The mosquitos are the main reason I prefer to push on to Silleda on this stretch.

I arrived in Silleda in the afternoon and it looked like a deserted town. Being Sunday, all the supermarkets were closed. If you need to buy something to eat you have to walk to the gas station 700 meters from the town's centre. Two thirds of the bars seemed to close as well. But the pizzería Galega (recommended) is open even on Sunday evening.

After a long stage of 37 kms I opted for Hotel Ramos, 30 euros. The Gran Albergue Silleda, as well as the Albergue Turístico, are close but I wanted a bit of luxury. The hotel seemed a bit run down since I last stayed here in 2019. I asked for an electric fan and got a medieval tool from Abuela's attic: I am amazed it actually worked. I slept with the fan on and the windows open all night, still I was sweating!

Day 8: Silleda - Santiago de Compostela. A monster stage of 41 kms (according to the waymarks in Silleda). I have stayed so many times in Ponte Ulla (20 kms) that I decided to skip the hostal/albergue O Cruceiro da Ulla (nice, functional). I would walk straight to Santiago! It wasn't as hard as I thought. I knew my way, where the bars were, the fountains, the ups and downs… I took strategic breaks in Bandeira, Ponte Ulla and A Susana and arrived in Santiago without too much suffering. The heatwave was over and I had only 25C in the afternoon. It was a perfect day for walking.

Hostal ArArAt in would have to do for two nights. 74 euros on Booking. (I will never stay there again. The owner has anger problems, and/or is mentally unstable. He went crazy because I couldn't open the front door and asked to be buzzed in - once. Something is wrong with him.) I needed a rest day in Santiago: wandering through the streets, watching pilgrims, doing laundry, buying plane tickets… Alas, it was time to go home.

I think I will have to give the Invierno a rest next year. It is embarrassing when people start to recognize you along the way. For example Tattooed Girl in Sobradelo ("You've been here before, right? Like… a lot"), Old Lady in A Rúa ("Ooh you came back!") or Mr Funnyman in Carpinteiras ("Oh it's you again!"). Well, one day they will have to see me again because I always come back to the Invierno!

Thanks for reading!

/BP

 

[VNwalking]

I think I will have to give the Invierno a rest next year. It is embarrassing when people start to recognize you along the way. For example Tattooed Girl in Sobradelo ("You've been here before, right? Like… a lot"), Old Lady in A Rúa ("Ooh you came back!") or Mr Funnyman in Carpinteiras ("Oh it's you again!"). Well, one day they will have to see me again because I always come back to the Invierno!

They just like you @Bad Pilgrim. Sounds like a reason to go back more often, if you ask me (I know, you didn't). But next time maybe avoid that place in Santiago, of course. Sounds like a crummy end to a wonderful camino. Til next time...!

So just wondering - was there no mud after Rodeiro because it's been dry or have they 'improved' the camino (I so hope it's not the latter)?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

So just wondering - was there no mud after Rodeiro because it's been dry or have they 'improved' the camino (I so hope it's not the latter)?

I don't think they have done any improvements, not that I could see. I thought it would be messier after the heavy rainfall in Galicia two days earlier but it was ok!

 

[VNwalking]

I don't think they have done any improvements, not that I could see.

Oh, good.
I was imagining the Galician tendency to widen what is natural and turn it into a gravel senda.

 

[El Cascayal]

@Bad Pilgrim did you or anyone else stay in the newish A Posa de Asma Albergue in the past? That place you stayed in Dpaso looks fantastic!

Loved this place. Right on the Camino. Maika the hospitalera is most hospitable. Everything brand new, great blankets, free towel & washer dryer are free. Heated floors, kitchen, great showers, multiple full bathrooms. Code to get in. Great WiFi. Bar next door on corner is open early for breakfast and the guy was a fellow Cuban.

 

[laineylainey]

Thank you so much @Bad Pilgrim and others for this fabulous posting about the Invierno. The humour had me in howls of laughter and the information about the route currently and also about accommodation are invaluable. Thank you to all who contributed. Can't wait to walk it late September!

 

[Mycroft]

Day 7: Rodeiro - Silleda. There were no muddy parts in the woods between Rodeiro and Lalín. And for the first time: not a single loose-aggressive dog. Time flew by…

I ran into the hospitalero in A Laxe who was doing some extra cleaning since yesterday's load of pilgrims had made a mess, according to him. This was later contradicted by the chatty owner of the bar a few hundred mtrs up the road. She said that the hospitalero is a lazy bum who complains about everything! I had a good laugh listening to this lady as she informed me about the latest gossip and drama, twists and turns surrounding the maintenance of the albergue. She was adamant there is no plague of mosquitos in there any more! Well I believe that when I see it… The mosquitos are the main reason I prefer to push on to Silleda on this stretch.

I arrived in Silleda in the afternoon and it looked like a deserted town. Being Sunday, all the supermarkets were closed. If you need to buy something to eat you have to walk to the gas station 700 meters from the town's centre. Two thirds of the bars seemed to close as well. But the pizzería Galega (recommended) is open even on Sunday evening.

After a long stage of 37 kms I opted for Hotel Ramos, 30 euros. The Gran Albergue Silleda, as well as the Albergue Turístico, are close but I wanted a bit of luxury. The hotel seemed a bit run down since I last stayed here in 2019. I asked for an electric fan and got a medieval tool from Abuela's attic: I am amazed it actually worked. I slept with the fan on and the windows open all night, still I was sweating!

Day 8: Silleda - Santiago de Compostela. A monster stage of 41 kms (according to the waymarks in Silleda). I have stayed so many times in Ponte Ulla (20 kms) that I decided to skip the hostal/albergue O Cruceiro da Ulla (nice, functional). I would walk straight to Santiago! It wasn't as hard as I thought. I knew my way, where the bars were, the fountains, the ups and downs… I took strategic breaks in Bandeira, Ponte Ulla and A Susana and arrived in Santiago without too much suffering. The heatwave was over and I had only 25C in the afternoon. It was a perfect day for walking.

Hostal ArArAt in would have to do for two nights. 74 euros on Booking. (I will never stay there again. The owner has anger problems, and/or is mentally unstable. He went crazy because I couldn't open the front door and asked to be buzzed in - once. Something is wrong with him.) I needed a rest day in Santiago: wandering through the streets, watching pilgrims, doing laundry, buying plane tickets… Alas, it was time to go home.

I think I will have to give the Invierno a rest next year. It is embarrassing when people start to recognize you along the way. For example Tattooed Girl in Sobradelo ("You've been here before, right? Like… a lot"), Old Lady in A Rúa ("Ooh you came back!") or Mr Funnyman in Carpinteiras ("Oh it's you again!"). Well, one day they will have to see me again because I always come back to the Invierno!

Thanks for reading!

/BP

Aiiiii! I had a panic attack when I read you walked 37 km and then I passed out when you wrote you did 41 km!
Seriously though, I have enjoyed your travelogue and crave more data, since, unlike you, I have not been on this route.
Be well.

 

[MesaWalker]

Thank you Bad Pilgrim. Great writing and very informative.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Yes as others have said, but usually there was hardly any traffic, and a softer shoulder to walk on.

I agree. There has been discussions about this in other threads... I believe Laurie posted a link to one of them above. I am certainly one to admit that there is much asphalt! Not that I have the percentage, but there is a lot of it. That said, it is almost never a big road with much traffic, it is just hard surface. There is very little or no traffic, for example between Monforte and Chantada.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

But next time maybe avoid that place in Santiago, of course. Sounds like a crummy end to a wonderful camino.

One of the weirdest owners/hospitaleros I have ever met. But I didn't let it ruin my Camino. He was so ridiculous he couldn't be taken seriously. I just brushed it off. He will get what he deserves when I leave a little comment and a rating on Booking for him...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Thank you so much @Bad Pilgrim and others for this fabulous posting about the Invierno. The humour had me in howls of laughter and the information about the route currently and also about accommodation are invaluable. Thank you to all who contributed. Can't wait to walk it late September!

You will love it and September must be perfect for walking!! I don't know how long your stages are but, as you have seen, there is plenty of accomodation along the Invierno now.

I think you never need to walk more than 20 kms to reach a place to stay!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I had a panic attack when I read you walked 37 km and then I passed out when you wrote you did 41 km!

I started with 8 kms earlier this summer so I guess I have gained stamina over the weeks! It is easy when there are places to take a break along the way. On the other hand I have done 39 kms without any villages in between and that was torture!!

 

[laineylainey]

I agree. There has been discussions about this in other threads... I believe Laurie posted a link to one of them above. I am certainly one to admit that there is much asphalt! Not that I have the percentage, but there is a lot of it. That said, it is almost never a big road with much traffic, it is just hard surface. There is very little or no traffic, for example between Monforte and Chantada.

Because of what you and Laurie said zi

I agree. There has been discussions about this in other threads... I believe Laurie posted a link to one of them above. I am certainly one to admit that there is much asphalt! Not that I have the percentage, but there is a lot of it. That said, it is almost never a big road with much traffic, it is just hard surface. There is very little or no traffic, for example between Monforte and Chantada.

Because of what you and Laurie said I have bought a pair of trail runners

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Because of what you and Laurie said zi

Because of what you and Laurie said I have bought a pair of trail runners

Oh, as long as you feel comfortable with what you are walking in! Be sure to try them out at home so you know they feel good on you!

 

[KB Jaffe]

Dear people,

I walked my annual Camino de Invierno between the 11 and the 18 of July this year (2022). I kept a diary of which I publish a summary below. You will get it in bits because it is too long to read… Expletives, wild animal attacks and revelling in napolitanas have been left out. First a few general notes and a comparison with last year's Invierno:

Kilometers: The distance to Santiago is now engraved on the mojones (the granite waymarks). The distance was not there last year (beginning of July 2021). Everything looks brand new and no mojón has been damaged/defaced - except one. I think you can guess which one. We will get to that later.

Embellishment: The Xunta and/or the villagers really stepped up since last year. The places where the Camino goes have been prettified. One example: there is now a Pilgrim's Bench, Banco peregrino, in several villages and hamlets. It is a large, yellow bench in the shape of an arrow; you will see them when you walk by. There are more info boards, waymarks, signs, quirky handicraft, flowerpots and what have you to emphasize the Camino, especially in the small villages. There is also a sense of general cleanup. Above all, a cleanup of dogs. I imagine the Xunta ushered an order to the villagers to chain the dogs, lock them up, or deport them to the Castilian border. I only met aggressive dogs before Quiroga and Belesar, nowhere else.

Wildfires? I was lucky not to experience any of it. Less than a week later (July 18) I see the Valdeorras region, Quiroga and Pobra do Brollón having problems. Trains between Galicia and Madrid have been cancelled or substituted with other means of transport. Watch the news and ask the locals if the Camino de Invierno is affected, if you are walking any time soon!

But let's get down to business.

Day 0: Ponferrada. I arrived with the night bus from Mérida at 9.30 a.m. I stayed at Hostal Río Selmo, 35 euros. The cheapest alternatives are of course the albergues San Nicolás de Flüe (parochial), Alea (private) and Guiana (private) but I can't stand the snoring. Guiana has an amazing breakfast (in 2018 when I stayed there) if you are into those kinds of things. I spent large part of the day in the cafés in the old town watching pilgrims arrive. They wear their bathroom, kitchen and livingroom on their backs, and judging by their boots they plan to walk through the Amazon jungle. I got tendonitis just by looking at them. I wanted to run some errands to Decathlon. But it was Sunday and it was closed, as was much of the rest of town… I went to bed early to be well rested before my first stage the following day.

To be continued

But I *want* to hear about the wild animal attacks!!!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

But I *want* to hear about the wild animal attacks!!!

OK everything I write is not to be taken at face value...

Didn't you see my signature at the bottom of each message...?

 

[Canche]

I have tried a lot and it still doesn't keep the noise out. I happily take advice!

I use hear protection that I use at the range. Keeps all noise out. A little cumbersome but I even use them here at home. Well worth it

 

[Canche]

Dear people,

I walked my annual Camino de Invierno between the 11 and the 18 of July this year (2022). I kept a diary of which I publish a summary below. You will get it in bits because it is too long to read… Expletives, wild animal attacks and revelling in napolitanas have been left out. First a few general notes and a comparison with last year's Invierno:

Kilometers: The distance to Santiago is now engraved on the mojones (the granite waymarks). The distance was not there last year (beginning of July 2021). Everything looks brand new and no mojón has been damaged/defaced - except one. I think you can guess which one. We will get to that later.

Embellishment: The Xunta and/or the villagers really stepped up since last year. The places where the Camino goes have been prettified. One example: there is now a Pilgrim's Bench, Banco peregrino, in several villages and hamlets. It is a large, yellow bench in the shape of an arrow; you will see them when you walk by. There are more info boards, waymarks, signs, quirky handicraft, flowerpots and what have you to emphasize the Camino, especially in the small villages. There is also a sense of general cleanup. Above all, a cleanup of dogs. I imagine the Xunta ushered an order to the villagers to chain the dogs, lock them up, or deport them to the Castilian border. I only met aggressive dogs before Quiroga and Belesar, nowhere else.

Wildfires? I was lucky not to experience any of it. Less than a week later (July 18) I see the Valdeorras region, Quiroga and Pobra do Brollón having problems. Trains between Galicia and Madrid have been cancelled or substituted with other means of transport. Watch the news and ask the locals if the Camino de Invierno is affected, if you are walking any time soon!

But let's get down to business.

Day 0: Ponferrada. I arrived with the night bus from Mérida at 9.30 a.m. I stayed at Hostal Río Selmo, 35 euros. The cheapest alternatives are of course the albergues San Nicolás de Flüe (parochial), Alea (private) and Guiana (private) but I can't stand the snoring. Guiana has an amazing breakfast (in 2018 when I stayed there) if you are into those kinds of things. I spent large part of the day in the cafés in the old town watching pilgrims arrive. They wear their bathroom, kitchen and livingroom on their backs, and judging by their boots they plan to walk through the Amazon jungle. I got tendonitis just by looking at them. I wanted to run some errands to Decathlon. But it was Sunday and it was closed, as was much of the rest of town… I went to bed early to be well rested before my first stage the following day.

To be continued

Will be starting the Invierno September 3rd. Will be staying a couple of nights in Ponferrada with a stop at the Decathlon, of course. I won't be there Sunday, thank God. Thanks for the update.

 

[VNwalking]

revelling in napolitanas have been left out.

And I was waiting for this. But missed the qualifier in the first post.
What?! No heads-up about the delectables?!

 

[Sparleb644]

of which I publish a summary below. You will get it in bits because it is too long to read… Expletives, wild animal attacks and revelling in napolitanas have been left out.

Thank you for this wonderful series of posts. It was great to walk with you.

Some of the things you left out remain a mystery to me. Expanding on the Napolitanas would be great. I had to google them to find our what they were. I usually get a croissant with my coffee and just swallow whatever cookie they might put on the saucer, so had never noticed the Napolitan brand of cookies. Are the three coloured ones better? They obviously link to the 3-colour Neapolitan Ice cream. If they’re not 3-colour, why are they called that? Just italien cookies?

Or were you referring to a chocolate croissant (pain au chocolat or chocolatine in French)?

One of the great benefits of spending the whole day walking is that I can eat these things without a worry about my calorie mass balance…..

I too was curious about the wild animal attacks….. so fell for that one. I find the semi-domesticated dogs enough of a challenge…. Never actually had a true problem, but I think my peak heart rates on the Camino did not come from steep or long hills but more from a surprise canine presence and challenge.

Have yet to do the Invierno, but this is the second series I’ve read and it sure sounds good.

Buen Camino

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Or were you referring to a chocolate croissant (pain au chocolat or chocolatine in French)?

I was talking about these, yum yum!

 

[Mycroft]

I was talking about these, yum yum!

View attachment 130136

Yes yes yes yes yes please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!