Sometimes you are lucky and see it; sometimes not. I happened to see it swing when I completed my 1989 Camino. When I walked in 2016 with my son, we went to a couple of the masses but it didn't appear. In 2018, I saw it at least twice after my Camino Portugues. It used to be swung at least weekly. Now it is only guaranteed on certain holidays. The only masses that are guaranteed to have the botafumeiro (except during renovations that prevent it, of course) are:
- The Epiphany: 6 January
- Resurrection Sunday
- The Apparition of the Apostle-Clavijo: 23 May
- Pentecost
- The Martyrdom of Saint James: 25 July
- The Assumption of Mary: 15 August
- All Saints: 1 November
- Christ the King
- The Immaculate Conception: 8 December
- Christmas: 25 December
- Transfer of the remains of the Apostle: 30 December
That said, as others report, it is possible to pay to have the botafumeiro swung (except during renovations). This costs several hundred euros and needs to be arranged in advance. To reserve the botafumeiro, you need to send an email to:
botafumeiro@catedraldesantiago.es. While that's a lot for one person, if you are walking with a large "pilgrim family" and willing to split the cost, it may end up being something you can afford and if seeing the botafumeiro is important to you, it may be worth it. One advantage of reserving the botafumeiro is that it also reserves your group some prime seating in the cathedral for the mass.