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In Torres del Rio…..Where I Stormed the Battlements

gerardcarey

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CFx2, CPx1
I’m a disgrace.
Should be ashamed of myself.
But I’m not.
Got a bit pickled in Torres del Rio.
More than a bit.
Good pilgrim company, good dinner, lots of laughter, and a plentiful supply of vino tinto.
That’ll do it.
I had just taken another sip when I noticed the clock behind the bar.
10.30pm. Blimey. The Albergue was due to close at 10. Now I’m in trouble.
Our dinner venue was down by the river. I thought I’d better get back to the albergue quick smart. It was up towards the top of the hill.
I paid my share of the bill, bid adieu to my companions and took off like a Bondi tram.
But the fasterer you hurry the more wobbly you weave.
And I was all puffed out by the time I got to the top of the hill.
The albergue was quiet, dark, and closed. Two tall, thick wooden doors, set into high stone block walls, barred my way.
I beat on the doors. To no avail. Not a mouse was stirring.
Now what am I going to do?
Sit down on the cobbles, have a rest, have a think about things.

I gotta be able to get in there somehow. This is a time to use one’s initiative.
I remembered that there was a courtyard on the inside of the wall. I’d sat in there reading and relaxing that afternoon.
Across the road I see a wheeled skip rubbish bin, with a few household bins alongside.
Now if I pulled that skip over and climbed on top of it, maybe I could clamber onto the top of the wall, then drop over and in, so to speak.
I dragged the skip over and climbed up on top but I couldn’t reach the top of the wall.
I clambered down again and collected one of the smaller bins from across the road.
I’ll put that upside down on top of the skip, then climb up on that. Then I should be able to grasp the top of the wall.
Worked like a charm. Except that as I was hoisting myself up to the top of the wall I back-kicked the small rubbish bin off the skip. It rattled and banged and crashed it’s way down the street.
In the black and still of night it was a noise that would waken the dead.
I lay motionless along the top of the wall, fearfully awaiting my imminent discovery, capture, conviction and incarceration.
No one came.
The heavy silence of the dark returned.
I peered down into the courtyard. Hard to see how far down it was. It looked a long way. I was going to be hurting rilly rilly bad in a lot of places after I landed down there.

“What are you bloody doing up there?” A slow aussie drawl rose up from the courtyard.
My eyes, adjusting now to the darkness, saw a dim figure.
“You a burglar or something?” the figure asked.
“Or something mate,” I said. “Gerard's the name, bit pickled, got locked out, I’m storming the battlements.”
“G’day Gerry,” he replied, “Willy….Howya goin?”
“Not so good Willy,” I said, “got a long drop ahead of me.”
He giggled.
“Never saw anyone fall into one of those,” he said.
“Very funny Willy," I replied, "but what do ya reckon? Is it doable?"
He sized up the distance.
“Not too bad really,” he said. “If you hang by your hands from the top that means there’s about two metres tops down to the ground. A bit high, but not too much I reckon. And anyway, I’ll come in and grab you as you reach ground level. She’ll be right mate.”
“Let’s hope she will,” I muttered in reply.
I swung my legs out over the edge and lowered myself down til I hung by my fingers.
I recalled my parachute training.
Bend your knees to help absorb the impact. Roll thru your back.
“Right Willy,” I said, “here I come.”
I closed my eyes and fell into the abyss.

Don’t remember the landing at all. Only sitting on the ground after. Nothing broken I don’t think, nothing hurting too much.
Willy stood looking down at me, then held out his hand.
“You alright mate?” he asked as he pulled me upright.
I staggered about a bit.
More than a bit.
“Yeah, I think I’m ok,” I replied eventually, “but what happened to you? I thought you were going to come in and grab me and catch me and rescue me and everything.”
A smile spread slowly across his face.
The smile of the just.…the just plastered.
He giggled again.
“Me name's Willy,” he said, “not Silly.”

Regards
Gerard


ps. It is my contention that Spanish Vino Tinto deserves serious consideration as a pilgrim anaesthetic, a medication that should be held in the same high esteem as those other Camino essentials, Compeed and Ibuprofen.
This is due to Vino Tinto’s unique ability to temporarily turn bones into rubber and disconnect nerve endings, as detailed above.
Some might consider having to consume it in anticipation of an accident a disadvantage.
Not me.
 
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Great wine in Torres del Río, best young Rioja I ever tried!
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
and a great story too!
 
No no no. all wrong-if you want to really know ask a professional imbiber-vino tinto in the north vino negro in Catalunya and the south is what one needs for a good time. Augardente is the pain killer, something like grappa but only sort of, Augardente de Bagazo from Galicia is the best of a bad bargain but it will kill pain, it also removes paint and fingernail polish. Good stuff in moderation.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Great story, I laughed a bit with it :)

No no no. all wrong-if you want to really know ask a professional imbiber-vino tinto in the north vino negro in Catalunya and the south is what one needs for a good time. Augardente is the pain killer, something like grappa but only sort of, Augardente de Bagazo from Galicia is the best of a bad bargain but it will kill pain, it also removes paint and fingernail polish. Good stuff in moderation.

They use Aguardente both in northern Portugal and Galiza to make a very ancient drink called Queimada Galega. It's aguardente, with cinnamon sticks, some lemon, coffe grains and a little bit of fruit. All of this, drinked hot, after being boiled in an old clay pot :D

It comes from the times of the Celtic Tribes who live in the region, and it has been changed through time (adding the coffe grains for example). It's a beverage that it's used to purge witches and bad spirits, that when it's made, you have to say a type of spell. You all should try this!

Best Regards
Diogo
 
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
In O'Ceb I asked in my "fluid" Spanish for the St.James tart (dessert) to be "flambe", have had it in Santiago, they pour spirit over it. However we received the flaming bowl in the image below! Queimada? We got a great laugh and reception from other diners as it was Sunday lunch and lots of locals were out. I have a photo of the empty bowl too. A good siesta was had that afternoon. The Vino Tinto was excellent also. Great story Gerard.
 

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I’m a disgrace.
Should be ashamed of myself.
But I’m not.
Got a bit pickled in Torres del Rio.
More than a bit.
Good pilgrim company, good dinner, lots of laughter, and a plentiful supply of vino tinto.
That’ll do it.
I had just taken another sip when I noticed the clock behind the bar.
10.30pm. Blimey. The Albergue was due to close at 10. Now I’m in trouble.
Our dinner venue was down by the river so I thought I’d better get to the albergue quick smart. It was up towards the top of the hill.
I paid my share of the bill, bid adieu to my companions, and took off.
But the fasterer you hurry the more wobbly you weave.
And I’m all puffed out by the time I get to the top of the hill.
The albergue is quiet, dark, and closed. Two big thick wooden doors set into high stone block walls bar my way.
I beat on the doors, to no avail. Not a mouse is stirring.
Now what am I going to do?
Sit down on the cobbles, have a rest, have a think about things.

I gotta be able to get in there somehow. This is a time to use one’s initiative.
I remember that there’s a courtyard on the inside of the wall. I’d sat in there reading and relaxing that afternoon.
Across the road I see a wheeled skip rubbish bin, with a few household bins alongside.
Now if I pulled that skip over and climbed on top of it, maybe I could clamber onto the top of the wall, then drop over and in, so to speak.
I drag the skip over and climb up on top but I can’t reach the top of the wall.
I clamber down again and collect one of the smaller bins from across the road.
I’ll put that upside down on top of the skip, then climb up on that. Then I should be able to grasp the top of the wall.
Works like a charm. Except that as I am hoisting myself up to the top of the wall I back-kick the small rubbish bin off the skip. It rattles and bangs and crashes it’s way down the street.
In the black and still of night it’s a noise that would waken the dead.
I lie motionlessly along the top of the wall. I await my imminent discovery, capture, conviction and incarceration.
No one comes. The heavy silence returns.
I peer down into the courtyard. Hard to see how far down it is. It looks a long way.
I’m going be hurting rilly rilly bad in a lot of places after I land down there.

“What are you bloody doing up there?” A slow aussie drawl rises up from the courtyard.
My eyes, adjusting now to the darkness, see a dim figure.
“You a burglar or something?” the figure asks.
“Or something mate,” I said, “Gerards the name, bit pickled, got locked out, I’m storming the battlements.”
“G’day Gerry,” he replied, “Willy….Howya goin?”
“Not so good Willy,” I said, “got a long drop ahead of me.”
He giggled.
“Never saw anyone fall into one of those,” he said.
“What do ya reckon Willy? Is it doable?” I asked.
He sized up the distance.
“Not too bad really,” he said. “If you hang by your hands from the top that means there’s about two metres tops down to the ground. A bit high, but not too much I reckon. And anyway, I’ll come in and grab you as you reach ground level. She’ll be right mate.”
“Let’s hope she will,” I replied.
I swung my legs out over the edge and lowered my self down til I hung by my fingers.
I recalled my parachute training.
Bend your knees to help absorb the impact. Roll thru your back.
“Right Willy,” I said, “here I come.”
I closed my eyes, and fell into the abyss.
Don’t remember the landing at all, only sitting on the ground after, nothing broken I don’t think, nothing hurting too much.

Willy stood looking down at me, then held out his hand.
“You alright mate?” he asked as he pulled me upright.
I staggered about a bit.
“Yeah I think I’m ok,” I replied eventually, “but I thought you were going to come in and grab me and catch me and everything.”
A smile spread slowly across his face.
The smile of the just…the just plastered.
He giggled again.
“Me names Willy,” he said, “not Silly.”

Regds
Gerard


PS. It is my contention that Spanish Vino Tinto deserves serious consideration as an pilgrim anaesthetic, and should be held in the same high esteem as those other Camino essentials, Compeed and Ibuprofen.
This is due to Vino Tinto’s unique ability to temporarily turn bones into rubber and disconnect nerve endings, as detailed above.
Some might consider that having to consume it in anticipation of an accident is a disadvantage.
Not me.

I can picture you like a cat grabbing anything to save his dear life and I must confess I'm LMAO reading your post☺️
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Call me a peasant, but I do not believe I had any Vino Tinto across the entire Camino Frances that I would not serve to friends or family. I would always simply ask for a bottle of the "vino tinto de la casa por favor." I was NEVER disappointed. Then again, I like red wine.;)

And I likely would have done the exact same thing as Gerard...except the bit about expecting a mate to break my fall. That would be like calling the poor fellow on the receiving end "stupid."

That said, I might have looked for something else to break my fall. But, it was all good in Gerard's adventure. No one was seriously injured. The hospitaleros were not awoken, and the local cats and dogs likely had snackies from the tipped trash bin outside the wall...:)
 
This could make for a very entertaining book. Of course, you would have to consume regular bottles of Tinto in order to fully embrace each situation as it arises. It reminds me of my father telling us stories of his childhood, and the adventures they survived
 
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Great story, I laughed a bit with it :)



They use Aguardente both in northern Portugal and Galiza to make a very ancient drink called Queimada Galega. It's aguardente, with cinnamon sticks, some lemon, coffe grains and a little bit of fruit. All of this, drinked hot, after being boiled in an old clay pot :D

It comes from the times of the Celtic Tribes who live in the region, and it has been changed through time (adding the coffe grains for example). It's a beverage that it's used to purge witches and bad spirits, that when it's made, you have to say a type of spell. You all should try this!

Best Regards
Diogo
It's seems this aguardent mix is okay if you have a coldth !:mad: We met a peregrino in Ansião at the south leg of the caminho Portuges who while we were sitting in the restaurant of hostal O Bras he ordered a kind of a bottle together with his meal.
After emptying the bottle for about 75% he left the restaurant after giving me the left over in the bottle . It was aguardente, Ca.50% proof. :D He was in a hurry to walk to Santiago because he had to catch his flight in time and had to go back to work. I think he walked on his hands, backwards after drinking this stuff. Trying this aguardent , the holes felt into my socks ! Holy cow. Good stuff:)
 
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Pacharan is available in Larrasaona! My guide recommended "I" try it. However we met a lovely couple Margaret and Herbert from Dublin and it was Margaret's birthday so I asked for a Pacharan for margaret, she was very pleased with it, a new experience and an "another" great night. But we woke to find everyone had left the alberque before us...didn't matter, short day into Cizur Menor next day in the heat, on the pavements!
 
Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
Shame on you! :)
What you've gotta understand Monya is that us guys who travel on our own are more susceptible to getting into trouble. That's because we haven't got a lady to keep us in line.
We need some one to remind us of the time, to tell us that we should behave, that we've had enough to drink, that we should act our age, that we should know better, that it's time for bed, that we shouldn't snore, etc. EDIT all 73 etceteras, now regarded as superfluous, have been deleted. My apologies Monya.
Come to think of it....Is that why we are walking on our own? :)

Regds
Gerard
 
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What you've gotta understand Monya is that us guys who travel on our own are more susceptible to getting into trouble. That's because we haven't got a lady to keep us in line.

Oh, nonsense. We ladies are equally keen on adventure, and are exquisitely resourceful in our own right.

No one wants to hear, or tell, stories of being tucked safely away in bed every night before curfew like good little children ;)
 
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Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
And if I wasn't there trying to climb over with you, I would at least have tried to catch you on the other side.
Yes Monya but "you would try the handles" on the heavy doors whilst gerad thumped and banged, then you would both fall through them together!!!!;)
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
"I DO not look for holy saints to guide me on my way,
Or male and female devilkins to lead my feet astray.
If these are added, I rejoice—if not, I shall not mind,
So long as I have leave and choice to meet my fellow-kind."

Kipling - A Pilgrim's Way
Thanks Bystander. A hell of a poem isn't it!
Been rediscovering his novels over the last couple of years. They seem to have been out of fashion for some reason.

Regds
Gerard
 
Yes, Gerard, a cracking good poem and a modus vivendi.

I think one of the reasons Kipling has been so neglected in modern times is that he has been, unfairly, lumped in with the native-crushing Empire-building colonialists. Whereas, if fact, he was far more even-handed and egalitarian than that.
As a youth I really enjoyed Stalky and Co, Kim, Puck of Pook's Hill as well as, later in life, the Barrack-Room Ballads et al. and still, from time to time, go back to them.
 
Yes, Gerard, a cracking good poem and a modus vivendi. I think one of the reasons Kipling has been so neglected in modern times is that he has been, unfairly, lumped in with the native-crushing Empire-building colonialists. Whereas, if fact, he was far more even-handed and egalitarian than that.
As a youth I really enjoyed Stalky and Co, Kim, Puck of Pook's Hill as well as, later in life, the Barrack-Room Ballads et al. and still, from time to time, go back to them.
My most recent was 'Kim', and his adventures in the great game which I really enjoyed again.

Regds
Gerard
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Oh, nonsense. We ladies are equally keen on adventure, and are exquisitely resourceful in our own right. No one wants to hear, or tell, stories of being tucked safely away in bed every night before curfew like good little children ;)
Dear Monya, having now the knowledge that you are indeed a woman whose company any man would enjoy on an adventure, I will delete all of the unnecessary et etceteras inserted in the above post, well all but one. Please accept my profound apologies.
Regds
Gerard
 
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Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Gerard you are delightful and I must implore you drop all responsibilities and come back to the Camino on May 24th. Our experience will sorely miss you otherwise, lol.
I would very much like to be heading up the mountain in May, but unfortunately I have to wait til September.
However I have a plan.
If you would like to leave a drink for me at the bars along the Way, I could then drink a toast to your very good health all the way across the top of Spain, and remember your kindness forever.
A bloke can't be kinder or more thoughtful than that, can he?
Roll on May 24th.
Buen Camino and have a champion time.
Regds
Gerard
 
I would very much like to be heading up the mountain in May, but unfortunately I have to wait til September.
However I have a plan.
If you would like to leave a drink for me at the bars along the Way, I could then drink a toast to your very good health all the way across the top of Spain, and remember your kindness forever.
A bloke can't be kinder or more thoughtful than that, can he?
Roll on May 24th.
Buen Camino and have a champion time.
Regds
Gerard
Tell the truth gerad you've got it together with Monya for a little adventure in September and you want sweet dizyducks to finance your bar bills on the Way, shame on you! ;)
 
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