Worrying Trend

[deni]

Having spent most of the last two weeks walking along the Camino Frances I have noticed a disturbing trend. The further west we go the quality of tortilla seems to be decreasing. Right through Navarra the tortilla was absolutely fantastic. In the province of Rioja while still good the tortilla wasn't quite up to the same standard. Now that we have entered Castilla Leon there has been a marked deterioration in terms of color, taste, texture and presentation.

I am concerned that if this trend continues by the time we get to Santiago will be handed an egg and a potato. Is it just me or has anybody else noticed this? Am I right to be concerned? Does the decline continued or do things improve? Would be interested in hearing your comments and experiences.

Thanks in advance.
deni

 

[scruffy1]

I have never been a great fan of the tortilla, far too often it has been made several hours beforehand, sat covered or not on the shelf, and then microwaved just before serving or perhaps not. My rule has been, if you see the tortilla plate as it comes out from the kitchen go for it, otherwise, forget it. The pits? A bocadilla made from a aged tortilla. True, the bocadilla gets boring, fast, but at least you can usually embellish, add tomatoes or onions or lettuce or tuna or ham or serrano or whatever and make it more palatable.

 

[Castilian]

Time to try something different? As you seem to be in Burgos' province, What about, for example, some morcilla?

Now that we have entered Castilla Leon

You've entered Castilla y León (Castile and Leon).

 

[deni]

The morcilla's great but it's more of an evening bite. I find the tortilla is a good option for second breakfast and doesn't repeat on me. Also, the morcilla tends to provoke mad dreams.

 

[SYates]

Perhaps you are just suffering from chronic tortilla intoxication? Buen Camino, SY

 

[Icacos]

Perhaps you are just suffering from chronic tortilla intoxication? Buen Camino, SY

Is that what it is? I suffered from that too!

 

[mylifeonvacation]

Not to worry ... once you get to Galicia the tortillas will become wonderful again!

 

[jirit]

Different regions are known for different foods, so one might expect to quality of tortilla to vary from place to place.

I guess you can report back to us, after you get to Santiago.

 

[nidarosa]

When tortilla fatigue sets in: Empanada!!
Especially the one at El Llar outside Astorga.

 

[amancio]

I see what you mean... it is quite a staple, eating tortilla on a daily basis, can be a bit exhausting, it may please your most primitive hunger for carbohydrates and protein, but it does get easily dull after a few days on a row. Try tortilla de chorizo for a change, or even a tortilla with espinacas or atún, a change is always good!

 

[John Finn]

Deni, I am glad that you have raised this very important issue. I too have noticed a deterioration in tortilla quality the further west one travels and it has been a matter of great concern to me. On my recent trek I thought of little else as I ranged forth each day and it was with trepidation, fear and trembling that I entered bars and cafes and asked for this humble repast. The disappointment I felt when presented with a less than perfect amalgam of egg and potato was enough to cast a cloud over my otherwise bright blue sky of a disposition. To come all this way and be presented with third-rate tortilla! It simply is not good enough and it demands that SOMETHING MUST BE DONE. Now that you have raised the flag of alarm let us hope that others will rally to the cause and a movement will be created to force the caterers on the trail to up their game and supply us peregrinos with tortillas worthy of the name. Because at the end of the day, we all know that is what the Camino is all about - the quality of the tortillas.

 

[Waka]

Are you sure you're washing it down with the right quantity of wine, it's better with white but at a pinch red will do.
I have to say the tortilla was my staple diet for breakfast 1 & 2 for most of my camino.

 

[Icacos]

......Empanada!!

Oh, that reminds me..... We had delicious empanada de atún at the first bar after the bridge in Molinaseca; "made by Mama," and fresh out of the oven.

 

[deni]

I am currently drowning my sorrows with a gorgeous Patxaran con hielo (my other Camino ritual) as the sun sets over the Meseta. It lifts my heart John to know that I'm not the only one bearing this burden, that my concerns have struck a chord. I also look forward to the forthcoming empanadas which will be much appreciated.

 

[trecile]

I have never been a great fan of the tortilla, far too often it has been made several hours beforehand, sat covered or not on the shelf, and then microwaved just before serving or perhaps not. My rule has been, if you see the tortilla plate as it comes out from the kitchen go for it, otherwise, forget it. The pits? A bocadilla made from a aged tortilla. True, the bocadilla gets boring, fast, but at least you can usually embellish, add tomatoes or onions or lettuce or tuna or ham or serrano or whatever and make it more palatable.

I personally prefer tortilla has set for a while allowing the flavors to meld together. I also like mine room temperature, or hot or chilled...

 

[MinaKamina]

Keep faith! A perfect tortilla is awaiting you in Santiago!
El Pais in English:
On the trail of the perfect tortilla.....

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I had my best tortilla in Sahagun. They had sliced it and added tuna, salad, tomatoes, onions and mayo. Delicious.

As I'm lactose and gluten intolerant tortillas is almost the only thing I can eat for breakfast. I also noticed that they got worse and worse or I just got very tired of them after eating it 1-2 times a day. But the one in Sahagun restored my trust in the tortilla for a while. Did have a really bad one inVillafranca de Bierz.

 

[Csutak]

I haven't been on the C. Frances for a few years, but what I noticed on the Camino Vasco and Norte (until Bilbao) is that there were much tastier tortillas than in the other regions. One of the best I had in Astigarraga in a bar.

 

[Csutak]

Hi Beatrice. I'm also lactose and gluten intolerant and I always show this card in the bar or restaurant. and have o problems. http://www.celiactravel.com/cards/spanish/ And have you heard that you can also buy GF hamburgers at many Mc Donald's?

 

[trevorcc]

As long as the wine is red or white the world is in balance....

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hi Beatrice. I'm also lactose and gluten intolerant and I always show this card in the bar or restaurant. and have o problems. http://www.celiactravel.com/cards/spanish/ And have you heard that you can also buy GF hamburgers at many Mc Donald's?

And when did eating at Mc D's become a routine on the Camino???

 

[Icacos]

And when did eating at Mc D's become a routine on the Camino???

That's another thread!

 

[Kanga]

This thread pains me. It is clear that my belovéd tortilla is suffering from overexposure, pilgrim excess, and possibly the Martin Sheen infection. Is it the result of the increasing numbers walking the path, is it some strange affliction affecting the chooks, have the potatoes grown eyes? Insidiously it also seems to be affecting Tarta de Santiago - the portion sizes have definitely decreased.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Hi Beatrice. I'm also lactose and gluten intolerant and I always show this card in the bar or restaurant. and have o problems. http://www.celiactravel.com/cards/spanish/ And have you heard that you can also buy GF hamburgers at many Mc Donald's?

Thanks, I have a customized card as I'm also allergic to mushrooms ans some other things. McD uses (at least in Sweden) tapioca/cassava in their bread and I can't eat that, I get swollen and itchy in my mouth and McD doesn't appeal to me while on the camino (especially not as breakfast). I have been served gluten many times even when I have showed my card in small villages.

Several times I haven't ben able to eat the tortilla either as they put flour in it sometimes. I'm happy I have another gluten intolerance than celiaci disease so I can manage small amounts and traces.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

This thread pains me. It is clear that my belovéd tortilla is suffering from overexposure, pilgrim excess, and possibly the Martin Sheen infection. Is it the result of the increasing numbers walking the path, is it some strange affliction affecting the chooks, have the potatoes grown eyes? Insidiously it also seems to be affecting Tarta de Santiago - the portion sizes have definitely decreased.

Oh no, I probably need to order 2 pcs next time then

 

[Csutak]

It must be rather difficult for you Beatrice, as well. Buen Camino! Maybe, we'll meet somewhere on the Norte.

 

[Bradypus]

I am currently drowning my sorrows with a gorgeous Patxaran con hielo (my other Camino ritual) as the sun sets over the Meseta.

Patxaran was by far my best food/drink discovery on my first Camino. Introduced to it by a Spanish pilgrim beside the swimming pool in Hontanas on a blisteringly hot July day. I love it but it is almost impossible to buy it in my part of the world. We do have sloes though and when there is a good crop I make my own as well as sloe gin. A real taste of Spain on damp Welsh winter nights

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Having spent most of the last two weeks walking along the Camino Frances I have noticed a disturbing trend. The further west we go the quality of tortilla seems to be decreasing.

But Peg and I noticed that the bread got better.

 

[PeterD1951]

Far more importantly I found that the amount of gin in my g&t was in inverse proprtion to the size of the town in which it was bought. Thus a g&t in Burgos had less gin in it than the wonderful one I had in Villafranca Montes de Orca, and it had juniper berries added. Generally it was impossible to get a slice of cucumber in my Hendricks as well. A jolly poor show!!!!!!

 

[aisbr]

Deni glad to report excellent tortilla in Villacázar this morning.. keep the faith it's "on the way".

 

[Felipe]

Just wait for the McPilgrim and the McTortilla. It is going to happen.
As for drinks (not in the McDs!) in La Rioja I go for mosto -that is grape juice- after the recommendation of a Spanish pilgrim. A waiter in Ventosa explained to me that is made out of the first season grapes, so its acid taste. I liked it very much, found it very refreshing in a hot day.
On the other side, I tasted again mosto in the folksy Bar Vaquero, at El Ganso. It was made in Oviedo, and it was decidedly alcoholic -not much, more as an a beer. So, the definition of "mosto" could vary according to regions.

 

[deni]

Deni glad to report excellent tortilla in Villacázar this morning.. keep the faith it's "on the way".

It definitely was an improvement over what was available for the past few days. So far the tortilla in Villacázar was the best this side of Viana. Hopefully it's a sign of things to come. Apart from the taste, the location and particularly the company made it special.

 

[denis52]

I am 1 day away from Santiago and I have fallen in love with the tortilla. Don't care what form it takes. Some are obviously better than others but it beats toast any day.

Having spent most of the last two weeks walking along the Camino Frances I have noticed a disturbing trend. The further west we go the quality of tortilla seems to be decreasing. Right through Navarra the tortilla was absolutely fantastic. In the province of Rioja while still good the tortilla wasn't quite up to the same standard. Now that we have entered Castilla Leon there has been a marked deterioration in terms of color, taste, texture and presentation.

I am concerned that if this trend continues by the time we get to Santiago will be handed an egg and a potato. Is it just me or has anybody else noticed this? Am I right to be concerned? Does the decline continued or do things improve? Would be interested in hearing your comments and experiences.

Thanks in advance.
deni

m on

 

[Rebekah Scott]

What makes a tortilla good or bad? One person likes it firm and thick and dry, another likes it runny... Every Spaniard will tell you his mum's is the world's best!
It's like asking English people "what's the right way to make a cup of tea." A good way to get into a fight.

There's a bar in Betanzos on the Camino Ingles that's been awarded "Spain's Best Tortilla" prizes. I went in to try it. It really was good, but best? I dunno...

Anyone passing through Moratinos on 20 August can sample some of the region's finest: we're having a homemade Tortilla Contest as part of our "Semana Cultural," and we need JUDGES!

 

[obinjatoo]

No, it's best chased with cafe con leche. I can only tolerate tortilla in the morning. But who's to say it's never too early for wine? It does have vitamin c does it not?

Are you sure you're washing it down with the right quantity of wine, it's better with white but at a pinch red will do.
I have to say the tortilla was my staple diet for breakfast 1 & 2 for most of my camino.

 

[PeterD1951]

No, it's best chased with cafe con leche. I can only tolerate tortilla in the morning. But who's to say it's never too early for wine? It does have vitamin c does it not?

Had a quite wonderful second breakfast of bacon and eggs somewhere (sorry, can't remember where) but as we were finishing at about 9.30 a group of Germans came in, looked at the rapidly emptying plates and ordered the bacon and eggs, but with a bottle of tinto. THAT was too early for wine........ and anyway, you should of course drink white with a fry-up. Just ask someone from Belfast what he has with his Ulster fry!

 

[Kanga]

We had a fabulous bacon and egg breakfast at Molinaseca. And very reasonably priced. Not on the riverfront but a very short way into the village, a little shop/cafe on the left with a few tables and chairs outside.

 

[Pelegrin]

What makes a tortilla good or bad? One person likes it firm and thick and dry, another likes it runny... Every Spaniard will tell you his mum's is the world's best!
It's like asking English people "what's the right way to make a cup of tea." A good way to get into a fight.

There's a bar in Betanzos on the Camino Ingles that's been awarded "Spain's Best Tortilla" prizes. I went in to try it. It really was good, but best? I dunno...

Anyone passing through Moratinos on 20 August can sample some of the region's finest: we're having a homemade Tortilla Contest as part of our "Semana Cultural," and we need JUDGES!

I think that the tortilla de Betanzos is quite different to the common Spanish tortilla. It has more eggs and both the eggs and the potatoes are high quality.

 

[Tia Valeria]

I must admit that we prefer our tortilla well cooked and found the Betanzos one a bit too runny for our taste. Just proves the point that quality is just the view of those eating at the time.
Another point might be to eat where the locals do rather than just pilgrims - places off the 'tourist' routes are often best, anywhere, so probably true about the more popular pilgrim routes too.

 

[Castilian]

Had a quite wonderful second breakfast of bacon and eggs somewhere (sorry, can't remember where) but as we were finishing at about 9.30 a group of Germans came in, looked at the rapidly emptying plates and ordered the bacon and eggs, but with a bottle of tinto. THAT was too early for wine........

For some people, that's too early for wine. For others, as you saw, it isn't too early. Anyway, if there are many pilgrims asking for wine at breakfast or at second breakfast, I think bar owners should consider to add wine marmalade to their list of products available.

 

[Pam Scott]

I ai

Having spent most of the last two weeks walking along the Camino Frances I have noticed a disturbing trend. The further west we go the quality of tortilla seems to be decreasing. Right through Navarra the tortilla was absolutely fantastic. In the province of Rioja while still good the tortilla wasn't quite up to the same standard. Now that we have entered Castilla Leon there has been a marked deterioration in terms of color, taste, texture and presentation.

I am concerned that if this trend continues by the time we get to Santiago will be handed an egg and a potato. Is it just me or has anybody else noticed this? Am I right to be concerned? Does the decline continued or do things improve? Would be interested in hearing your comments and experiences.

Having spent most of the last two weeks walking along the Camino Frances I have noticed a disturbing trend. The further west we go the quality of tortilla seems to be decreasing. Right through Navarra the tortilla was absolutely fantastic. In the province of Rioja while still good the tortilla wasn't quite up to the same standard. Now that we have entered Castilla Leon there has been a marked deterioration in terms of color, taste, texture and presentation.

I am concerned that if this trend continues by the time we get to Santiago will be handed an egg and a potato. Is it just me or has anybody else noticed this? Am I right to be concerned? Does the decline continued or do things improve? Would be interested in hearing your comments and experiences.

Thanks in advance.
deni

I agree with you. I got the impression powdered egg was involved at times!
Thanks in advance.
deni

 

[JoP]

Far more importantly I found that the amount of gin in my g&t was in inverse proprtion to the size of the town in which it was bought. Thus a g&t in Burgos had less gin in it than the wonderful one I had in Villafranca Montes de Orca, and it had juniper berries added. Generally it was impossible to get a slice of cucumber in my Hendricks as well. A jolly poor show!!!!!!

Frankly, if you can't garnish your Hendricks properly its a pretty poor show.

And as for McDonalds.....scraping the barrel a bit there.......is there no Pret?

 

[psychoticparrot]

Deni, my advice is to push through, tighten your belt and think with hope of the tables in Dublin.

(apologies to Tolkien)

 

[C2G]

When tortilla fatigue sets in: Empanada!!
Especially the one at El Llar outside Astorga.

El llar is no longer there. Very sad. There is a new owner with new name. More expensive, not as good and absolutely no atmosphere. I was told by a local that the closing of El Llar was an ugly affair ( my translation). Made me sad.

 

[Alasdair Kay]

I am currently drowning my sorrows with a gorgeous Patxaran con hielo (my other Camino ritual) as the sun sets over the Meseta. It lifts my heart John to know that I'm not the only one bearing this burden, that my concerns have struck a chord. I also look forward to the forthcoming empanadas which will be much appreciated.

 

[nidarosa]

El llar is no longer there. Very sad.

NOOO! This is so unfair ... When I was on my honeymoon camino in March last year, I told my Scouse Spouse it was safe to have a light breakfast in Astorga because there would be lovely things at El Llar ... (empanada!) but when we walked down the strip before the brush trail it was nowhere to be seen. I thought it was too early in the year, before Easter, and went on to Santa Catalina. Then last September I tried again, and again it was closed. I thought it was too late in the season ... but wait, September is season ... and went on to Santa Catalina. I really really missed it and Pilar and the music and the foooood and catching up with others or finding new people to walk across the straight bit with ... Thanks for letting me know, though it was much nicer to look forward to it next time!

 

[Alasdair Kay]

Beware as you move west a far greater fate awaits you PULPO .... people will tell you it is a delicacy, others will say make sure you eat it, it as a key Camino experience ... Stay away it is evil ....... even in Fisterra where it is still wriggling on the plate it's that fresh. Just don't do it ....

 

[clearskiescamino]

El llar is no longer there. Very sad. There is a new owner with new name. More expensive, not as good and absolutely no atmosphere. I was told by a local that the closing of El Llar was an ugly affair ( my translation). Made me sad.

have eaten in el llar twice and loved it. Pilar is a great character. Shame it is no longer there.

 

[gagseymt]

Having spent most of the last two weeks walking along the Camino Frances I have noticed a disturbing trend. The further west we go the quality of tortilla seems to be decreasing. Right through Navarra the tortilla was absolutely fantastic. In the province of Rioja while still good the tortilla wasn't quite up to the same standard. Now that we have entered Castilla Leon there has been a marked deterioration in terms of color, taste, texture and presentation.

I am concerned that if this trend continues by the time we get to Santiago will be handed an egg and a potato. Is it just me or has anybody else noticed this? Am I right to be concerned? Does the decline continued or do things improve? Would be interested in hearing your comments and experiences.

Thanks in advance.
deni

Having having just completed the walk on the 2nd July 2016 I would recommend the Large Pan Chocolate. With doing 25/30 per day you will burn off excess it may put on.

 

[Alasdair Kay]

Far more importantly I found that the amount of gin in my g&t was in inverse proprtion to the size of the town in which it was bought. Thus a g&t in Burgos had less gin in it than the wonderful one I had in Villafranca Montes de Orca, and it had juniper berries added. Generally it was impossible to get a slice of cucumber in my Hendricks as well. A jolly poor show!!!!!!

yes but G+T was generally in generous quantities.. I would usually go for oooh two or three in the afternoon as a post exercise recovery drink followed by Ibuprofen and Vino Tinto ...always managed to sleep well for some reason

 

[John Finn]

Beware as you move west a far greater fate awaits you PULPO .... people will tell you it is a delicacy, others will say make sure you eat it, it as a key Camino experience ... Stay away it is evil ....... even in Fisterra where it is still wriggling on the plate it's that fresh. Just don't do it ....

Au contraire, Alasdair, I think Galician pulpo is absolutely delicious. The best place to get it is in Cafe Ezequiel in Melide which most walkers will reach around midday just in time for a lunch to remember. Pulpo, served on a wooden platter, with potatoes, liberally sprinkled with paprika and olive oil, and washed down with a bottle of Cruzcampo is a truly great gastronomic experience. I'm salivating at the thought of it.

 

[Alasdair Kay]

Au contraire, Alasdair, I think Galician pulpo is absolutely delicious. The best place to get it is in Cafe Ezequiel in Melide which most walkers will reach around midday just in time for a lunch to remember. Pulpo, served on a wooden platter, with potatoes, liberally sprinkled with paprika and olive oil, and washed down with a bottle of Cruzcampo is a truly great gastronomic experience. I'm salivating at the thought of it.

and I bet you like Orujo as well ... I went to said Cafe and the ordered a huge plate of it .... it even drove me back to three days of ensalada chicken and chips and ice cream ..... which I just may have eaten one or two times while on the camino as the Pilgrim menu has such a vast variety Is Pulpo he Galician Marmite you either love it or hate it....

 

[Toreld]

Hola, I am just home from my walk to Santiago de Compostela, so I want to tell all you still on the Camino where I had the very best Pilgrim meny.
In hotel San Paio in Lavacolla, about
10 km before Santiago.
1. dish they named Minestrone, but that was not a soup, but heavenly a lot of different boiled vegetables with some kind of dressing over.
2. dish was steamed fresh codfish and
BOILED potatos with saus.
Postres of course a big peace Santiago cake of best quality.
Tea, wine and water. 10 euro.
And 1. class waiters.
It all was so delicious and tasty.

Buen Camino.

 

[deni]

Had a quite wonderful second breakfast of bacon and eggs somewhere (sorry, can't remember where) but as we were finishing at about 9.30 a group of Germans came in, looked at the rapidly emptying plates and ordered the bacon and eggs, but with a bottle of tinto. THAT was too early for wine........ and anyway, you should of course drink white with a fry-up. Just ask someone from Belfast what he has with his Ulster fry!

A learned friend of mine recommends Buckfast.

 

[marbuck]

Au contraire, Alasdair, I think Galician pulpo is absolutely delicious. The best place to get it is in Cafe Ezequiel in Melide which most walkers will reach around midday just in time for a lunch to remember. Pulpo, served on a wooden platter, with potatoes, liberally sprinkled with paprika and olive oil, and washed down with a bottle of Cruzcampo is a truly great gastronomic experience. I'm salivating at the thought of it.

I could not agree more. We stayed in Melide and ate their pulpo twice.

 

[dougfitz]

McD doesn't appeal to me while on the camino (especially not as breakfast).

It's hardly a risk. I saw my first on the CF this year when I went to the Decathlon at Ponferrada, and didn't see another. I couldn't resist going in and using the free wifi.

 

[PEI_Heather]

On the walk to Muxia from Santiago, me and Walking Buddy Sheila stopped into a small bar--we were the only ones there. We ordered the tortilla and waited...and waited...and waited.... And suddenly the most amazing and delicious just made tortilla was presented to us! Steaming hot (and not hot from a microwave either) and fresh! It was such a boost to have something made specifically for us! There IS a tortilla light at the (almost) end of the tunnel, Deni....you just have to walk to it.... Oh wait...

OK, so you have to walk and walk to it; someday you'll get there. Just continue on to Muxia and stop in every single bar you can find. You'll find it! (Here's the hint: it was somewhere between Maroñas and Dumbría and Muxia.... Good luck taste-testing!)

Mmmmm....tortilla....!

(Thanks for the laugh! Enjoy the rest of the Camino and your walk! Buen Camino!)

 

[KatefromOz]

The morcilla's great but it's more of an evening bite. I find the tortilla is a good option for second breakfast and doesn't repeat on me. Also, the morcilla tends to provoke mad dreams.

 

[JenCamino]

Au contraire, Alasdair, I think Galician pulpo is absolutely delicious. The best place to get it is in Cafe Ezequiel in Melide which most walkers will reach around midday just in time for a lunch to remember. Pulpo, served on a wooden platter, with potatoes, liberally sprinkled with paprika and olive oil, and washed down with a bottle of Cruzcampo is a truly great gastronomic experience. I'm salivating at the thought of it.

We just ate there!! The pulpo was fantastic. We actually ordered a second plate of it after our meal was finished. If you have poor pulpo somewhere, try try again, as the first one I had (in Asturias) was a little gross, but the second one (also in Asturias) was much better, then at Ezequiel it was tops.

 

[Kanga]

As with most food, pulpo varies. For me it has to be really tender - like they do it at Ezequiel. I've had it in other pulperias where it is chewier. I consider that a poor result, but apparently some people like it that way.

 

[NualaOC]

El llar is no longer there. Very sad. There is a new owner with new name. More expensive, not as good and absolutely no atmosphere. I was told by a local that the closing of El Llar was an ugly affair ( my translation). Made me sad.

SO sad to hear that - El Liar was one of my all time favourite food stops.

 

[Pelegrin]

As with most food, pulpo varies. For me it has to be really tender - like they do it at Ezequiel. I've had it in other pulperias where it is chewier. I consider that a poor result, but apparently some people like it that way.

For Pulpo lovers the delicatessen would be a Pulpo grown in the Galician Rias (not from North Africa) made in a copper cooking pot and served with Galician bread and wine da casa.

 

[PeterD1951]

A learned friend of mine recommends Buckfast.

Sorry, only just saw this... BIG LIKE!!!!!

 

[PeterD1951]

yes but G+T was generally in generous quantities.. I would usually go for oooh two or three in the afternoon as a post exercise recovery drink followed by Ibuprofen and Vino Tinto ...always managed to sleep well for some reason

Those Spanish Ibuprofen are great aren't they. I have to take 6 at home to get the same effect!

 

[Jane Silverman]

Ho

Having spent most of the last two weeks walking along the Camino Frances I have noticed a disturbing trend. The further west we go the quality of tortilla seems to be decreasing. Right through Navarra the tortilla was absolutely fantastic. In the province of Rioja while still good the tortilla wasn't quite up to the same standard. Now that we have entered Castilla Leon there has been a marked deterioration in terms of color, taste, texture and presentation.

I am concerned that if this trend continues by the time we get to Santiago will be handed an egg and a potato. Is it just me or has anybody else noticed this? Am I right to be concerned? Does the decline continued or do things improve? Would be interested in hearing your comments and experiences.

Thanks in advance.
deni

Horrors! How survive the Camino without tortilla?
I learned to make a reasonable replica on returning home as I had become so accustomed to them.
I don't remember that they disappeared..

 

[long trails]

Haha, I agree! The best tortilla was before Pamplona.

 

[JillGat]

I felt that bar/cafe food in northern Spain in general was inferior to what I had the last time I was there, in the days before microwave ovens. I liked the pintxos/tapas and many of the soups and stews, but got kind of tired of the rest of the fare. Most disturbing were the paellas, advertised on identical signs along the route, bland and microwaved. Granted paella is not native to northern Spain, but that's no excuse to serve something disgusting. They even use yellow food coloring instead of azafran. Ick. The wine, however, was spot on.

 

[deni]

Live from El Tesin in Rabanal del Camino. The best tortilla since Navarra.