Winter Ingles

[CarolineMathieson]

Heading off to Madrid and then Ferrol (Galicia) today for a much needed rest and recuperative very long walk. I will be away until the end of January, so I have no idea where I will actually be on either xmas day or new years day.

This year has been the toughest one both physically, mentally and emotionally for me that I have ever had. I will be glad to see the back of 2018 for sure!

Getting the bus from Madrid Airport to Ferrol at midnight tonight then walking to Neda tomorrow. This camino will be in the shortest possible stages, as I am using it as a training walk for the Camino Portuguese or something. This route is unusual in that it has refuges that are still open this time of year and that the daily stages can be made short which suites me. Even if I need to stay in a Hostal, there seem to be ones very near the route that are still bookable via booking.com etc.

 

[Tincatinker]

Buen Camino amiga. May you find the Way you need

 

[Leibniz]

Buen Camino

 

[SYates]

Buen Camino and hope to see you in Santiago! BC SY

 

[Ekelund]

Buen camino to you, Caroline. May you have a wonderful walk to finish off a difficult year.
All the best to you!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Gracias!

 

[Former member 49149]

Hope you have a great Camino, Caroline. I’ll be watching your reports for clues as to how really hilly it is!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Shattered after that long bus journey from Madrid. Didn't sleep, so will need to have a slight change of plan and stay in a hostel in Ferrol today and start walking tomorrow. Having said that though, blue sky has appeared but the grey clouds are moving past quickly.

 

[CarolineMathieson]

@kirkie, there are some real corkers, especially the way out of Pontedueme in the morning and Betanzos to Bruma.

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Some really useful aspects of Ferrol that I have not noticed on other routes is that most hotels seem to already have credentials for purchase. Last year I was able to purchase the passport from the hotel which meant I did not get to see the docks and the starting point etc. This time I will be going down to the proper starting point.

I am staying at Hostal Almendra for today and I don't have to go out hunting for the passport which is a win! They have also let me into the room early so I can have a long nap!

 

[HeidiL]

Greetings from the Via Augusta!

We’re walking out of Cádiz in a couple of hours...

 

[SYates]

Buen Camino @HeidiL ! See you in Santiago? BC SY

 

[CarolineMathieson]

What does BC SY mean Sybille?

 

[Former member 49149]

@kirkie, there are some real corkers, especially the way out of Pontedueme in the morning and Betanzos to Bruma.

Hmm! Some friends tell me it is not so bad! I believe you all. I will have to see for myself. Hope all goes well, and first off, that you have a good nap to be fresh to begin tomorrow.

 

[Bradypus]

Hmm! Some friends tell me it is not so bad! I believe you all. I will have to see for myself.

It is all relative. I walked the Ingles for the second time last month. The climbs out of Betanzos and especially Pontedeume are quite steep but not very long. The signposted route no longer goes up the steep and sometimes muddy slope between Bar Julia and Hospital de Bruma. A far gentler slope these days. There are other fairly short ups and downs but nothing very memorable. For someone who is unfit or used to walking only in flat country the hills may seem challenging. For anyone with experience of walking in hill areas like the Scottish Highlands then they are of no concern. Munro baggers need have no worries

 

[Desert Bruce]

BC SY probably means "Buen Camino Sybille Yates"
I just realized that I probably met Sybille last May in Santiago while I was volunteering at the Pilgrim House. I am so glad to know she is still there.

 

[Former member 49149]

It is all relative. I walked the Ingles for the second time last month. The climbs out of Betanzos and especially Pontedeume are quite steep but not very long. The signposted route no longer goes up the steep and sometimes muddy slope between Bar Julia and Hospital de Bruma. A far gentler slope these days. There are other fairly short ups and downs but nothing very memorable. For someone who is unfit or used to walking only in flat country the hills may seem challenging. For anyone with experience of walking in hill areas like the Scottish Highlands then they are of no concern. Munro baggers need have no worries

A Munro bagger I am not, but I just got what is good news for me: my kneecap is shot to hell but the chap who gets to read the MRI said that a steroid injection will do the trick. Who am I to argue? So, from here, no more resting on my whatever you call it: 10,000 steps every day once more, and a bit of serious effort to get in training, and whenever it happens, the next one ought to be the Inglés. Thanks for input Bradypus. My brain is trying hard to name your new alter ego... I can’t quite get it...so, after resorting to google, hello there, Rikki! A different beast from Rab C.!

 

[SYates]

What does BC SY mean Sybille?

BC SY probably means "Buen Camino Sybille Yates"
I just realized that I probably met Sybille last May in Santiago while I was volunteering at the Pilgrim House. I am so glad to know she is still there.

Correct, sometimes I am just too lazy to type BC out ;-) and as a kid (and also later) I was taught to always finish a letter with a greeting or similar and to sign it. I hardly write letters by hand anymore, so I just sign my posts ;-)

I think I remember you @Desert Bruce You came also to at least one of our services of the Anglican Camino Chaplaincy , correct? I am still alive and kicking in Santiago ;-) BC SY

 

[Jeff Crawley]

A Munro bagger I am not, but I just got what is good news for me: my kneecap is shot to hell but the chap who gets to read the MRI said that a steroid injection will do the trick. Who am I to argue? So, from here, no more resting on my whatever you call it: 10,000 steps every day once more, and a bit of serious effort to get in training, and whenever it happens, the next one ought to be the Inglés. Thanks for input Bradypus. My brain is trying hard to name your new alter ego... I can’t quite get it...so, after resorting to google, hello there, Rikki! A different beast from Rab C.!

The good news is there are benches 3/4 of the way up the north face of the Eiger I mean the climb out of Pontedeume where you can rest and restart your hear and a bar/hostal shortly afterward for refreshments (Meson Paz)

 

[Jeff Crawley]

Some really useful aspects of Ferrol that I have not noticed on other routes is that most hotels seem to already have credentials for purchase. Last year I was able to purchase the passport from the hotel which meant I did not get to see the docks and the starting point etc. This time I will be going down to the proper starting point.

I am staying at Hostal Almendra for today and I don't have to go out hunting for the passport which is a win! They have also let me into the room early so I can have a long nap!

Caroline, best wishes on the Ingles, how are you finding your way?
There were significant realignments of the route this year - Vila do Colo to Cabenas; Pontedeume to Grana etc.
The new route is very well marked but you could be confused if you find they don't agree with your itinerary.
I had no problems following them but turned off at Presedo and went cross country to stay at a certain place then cut back to rejoin the "official" route at Hospital de Bruma so not sure about the section that cuts out Bar Julia.
If in doubt I'd say follow the stones!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

I always follow the stones when I can find them!

 

[HeidiL]

SY, hope to see you at Easter!

 

[Jeff Crawley]

I always follow the stones when I can find them!

Oh you'll find them alright!

 

[natefaith]

@CarolineMathieson, hope you have a peaceful and restorative walk through the Galician countryside. If you get to Santiago before Christmas, do come by Pilgrim House for some conversation or some quiet (or both). Sounds like your pilgrimage is coming at a good time for you. Buen Camino!
Faith

 

[Maggie Y]

Lovely to hear your updates. I hope to do this route in 2019 so will follow with interest. Buen Camino x

 

[Desert Bruce]

Correct, sometimes I am just too lazy to type BC out ;-) and as a kid (and also later) I was taught to always finish a letter with a greeting or similar and to sign it. I hardly write letters by hand anymore, so I just sign my posts ;-)

I think I remember you @Desert Bruce You came also to at least one of our services of the Anglican Camino Chaplaincy , correct? I am still alive and kicking in Santiago ;-) BC SY

Yes I did. I think it was the first service at the Parador.

 

[CarolineMathieson]

I am going to have a rest day tomorrow. Today was very hard and I need to recover a bit. I am staying in Hotel O Cruceiro in a place called Campolongo which is not actually very far off the camino. I booked it online and despite the fact it says Pontedueme, it's actually several km further along main road. But that's ok. It's chucking it down right now and there are very strong winds. But this place has its own bathroom and heating that works!

 

[SYates]

Take your time and Buen Camino, SY

 

[CarolineMathieson]

All around Ferrol at the crossings they have some text. But what is the connection between Ferrol and Virginia Woolf?

 

[Former member 49149]

View attachment 49950

All around Ferrol at the crossings they have some text. But what is the connection between Ferrol and Virginia Woolf?

I just googled, and found a couple of articles in La Voz de Galicia. Sorry i have no time to translate, but looks like she is one of a number of writers being honoured in that fashion. I have a memory also of seeing other authors/poets so honoured maybe in Madrid? Right now my brain is not going there. Safe and happy stepping today..

 

[CarolineMathieson]

https://www.diariodeferrol.com/arti...CBkqzTenXC0dJ2XWqeV5uNAXQ0TvoeWDrcaziLlmtw_WI

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Last year I stayed in the refuge at Mińo but didn't realise the beach was so close. This time I made my own camino from Pontedueme to walk past it. Where the camino normally crosses over the golf course, I kept straight on and followed a good road all the way down into Rio De Bańobre then over the bridge to approach Mińo from the north west.

I am now in the refuge for the night and will be cooking the traditional pilgrim dish of pasta and tomato sauce!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Today was easier than Saturday as I have lightened the load by not carrying so much food with me. There are also some notable changes at the refuge in Mińo.

1) It has free Wifi and it's fast.
2) Privacy curtains over the shower sections (both male and female).
3) Proper mixer taps for the showers rather than a button to be repeatedly pressed every 30 seconds.
4) The water pressure is very strong, so it was possible actually have a very hot strong shower to ease the aches and pains.

Photos to follow when the phone finally uploads them!

 

[ksam]

Last year I stayed in the refuge at Mińo but didn't realise the beach was so close. This time I made my own camino from Pontedueme to walk past it. Where the camino normally crosses over the golf course, I kept straight on and followed a good road all the way down into Rio De Bańobre then over the bridge to approach Mińo from the north west.

Had a long rest overlooking the beach and recorded a short video of the sea:-

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10156878238193210

I am now in the refuge for the night and will be cooking the traditional pilgrim dish of pasta and tomato sauce!

Caroline....the video won't play here!?? It says may have been removed or that we don't have permission here!! Maybe check on your end?? Glad everything seems to be going well!! Buen Camino!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Sorry but I don't know how to post a video on this forum.

 

[CarolineMathieson]

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Here is a view of Betanzos that you don't normally get. I took the road today after Vińas hoping to find a bar but didn't, so I walked the road into Betanzos and took this view from a high point looking down at the footbridge and road bridge. The railway bridge is just out of shot.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...FN4vUrX_3BJosHzC2A_pR1mcQcB6GzORP2MxSb9&ifg=1

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Whenever I see I picture of the damaged building on the left, it always seems to be on its own which makes it look like it's in the middle of nowhere. Actually it's in a village and right next to a very large house (in pink).
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...h7e_ikT_jFRBNyZWZ5GZUshd05TP9vo4ikPTHd5&ifg=1

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Not much to report about the refuge except to mention the new wifi and the mixer taps again same as Miń0. Its seems most of the refuges have given up the buttons now. Today it rained very heavy but not as much wind as last night. Curiously though the rain stopped as soon as I reached Betanzos and blue sky appeared. Should I be worried the camino gods are not looking on me favourably?

 

[CarolineMathieson]

The hardest day yet. A very steep climb out of Betanzos and generally uphill most of the day. It was raining hard when walking out of Betanzos but then blue sky appeared and it got quite warm. Warm enough for me to walk without a jacket for a while.

This section was hard for me because there are no bars or restaurants along the way that are open this time of year. So I had to carry extra food and water today. There were no fountains at all either. The route seems to be following the road much more than before. So today was all road walking, even through the forests.

The last bit into Presedo was a hard climb simply because I was too tired.

This refuge is very basic. There is a little portable heater but nothing else. However it does have thick duvets rather than blankets. There is a cooker but there are no shops here so you would need to remember to bring food here to cook.

 

[Former member 49149]

The hardest day yet. A very steep climb out of Betanzos and generally uphill most of the day. It was raining hard when walking out of Betanzos but then blue sky appeared and it got quite warm. Warm enough for me to walk without a jacket for a while.

This section was hard for me because there are no bars or restaurants along the way that are open this time of year. So I had to carry extra food and water today. There were no fountains at all either. The route seems to be following the road much more than before. So today was all road walking, even through the forests.

The last bit into Presedo was a hard climb simply because I was too tired.

This refuge is very basic. There is a little portable heater but nothing else. However it does have thick duvets rather than blankets. There is a cooker but there are no shops here so you would need to remember to bring food here to cook.

Caroline, sorry for your trouble! I am going to make a note of your comments for future reference. Are you alone in the refugios? At least, even though it is basic, you will be warm as toast if you have a kind of duvet. You did it, though, you made it to the end of the day! well done!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Thanks!. Apart from last night at Betanzos, i have been alone. i usually ask the hospitalera/o if there have been many pilgrims this month and they have all said very few.

 

[Former member 49149]

Thanks!. Apart from last night at Betanzos, i have been alone. i usually ask the hospitalera/o if there have been many pilgrims this month and they have all said very few.

hope you don't mind that. I think you are brave to do it alone, and at this time of year. I guess that you are happy doing it or you would have packed it in. You have plenty of time to fall in and out with yourself!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Although I am married, I am a loner and like time to myself. Of course you are never alone with the internet....

 

[CarolineMathieson]

I've reverted to childhood and made a little den of duvets around my corner bunkbed. With the radiator in there i am indeed warm as toast!

 

[donalomahony]

The hardest day yet. A very steep climb out of Betanzos and generally uphill most of the day.

Hang in there!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Had very little sleep last night again so going to have a rest day today in Ordes and walk to Siquiero tomorrow.

 

[Former member 49149]

Had very little sleep last night again so going to have a rest day today in Ordes and walk to Siquiero tomorrow.

smart cookie. Hope you are keeping warm today. That is pure projection. Since the snow was turned on, I feel shivers every time I have a look in at the forum!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Just slept for 6 hours despite the hotel being next to a noisy road! I must have been very depleted of energy. I have been eating, but only half what I am used to eating normally as I don't get much of a lunch or breakfast on this walk. There's no porridge on the camino!

 

[Former member 49149]

Cheese, apples, and of course water to beat the band. Digestive biscuits or other plain biscuits that are in the supermarkets. Yogurt,liquid. Nuts and raisins, frutos secos. Banana. Sorry, just running through my own list of what we ate on the road! Can’t for the life of me remember my favourite plain biscuits from there. Go well with baby bel cheese and apples.

 

[KinkyOne]

Today was easier than Saturday as I have lightened the load by not carrying so much food with me. There are also some notable changes at the refuge in Mińo.

1) It has free Wifi and it's fast.
2) Privacy curtains over the shower sections (both male and female).
3) Proper mixer taps for the showers rather than a button to be repeatedly pressed every 30 seconds.
4) The water pressure is very strong, so it was possible actually have a very hot strong shower to ease the aches and pains.

Photos to follow when the phone finally uploads them!

That's nice that they finally set up wi-fi in Mino albergue. In 2016 I saw the internet interface inside the reception room but there was no signal although all the small lights were on and blinking. Young hospitalero told me that Xunta did get the signal to the albergue but not in it. Job just half done

Did they also equipped the kitchen with pot/pans/cutlery? There was nothing in 2016. I was OK with that because I walked in time of Football (Soccer) Championship and I had a plan to go to the village bar anyway.

If now there is indeed equipped kitchen and strong wi-fi that would be, combined with beautiful beach not so far away and nice (quiet) overall setting (front patio etc.), possibly one of my top10 albergues.

Buen Camino!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

@KinkyOne There were 3 small saucepans plus cutlery and plates when I was there. In fact I made myself pasta with tomato sauce and tuna for dinner. I was even able to stream a movie upstairs with the wifi. I would say is it one of the best but less well known and visited refuges.

 

[KinkyOne]

@KinkyOne There were 3 small saucepans plus cutlery and plates when I was there. In fact I made myself pasta with tomato sauce and tuna for dinner. I was even able to stream a movie upstairs with the wifi. I would say is it one of the best but less well known and visited refuges.

Next time I'll definitely stay there again
Thanks for report!

Ultreia!

 

[CarolineMathieson]

Now reached Santiago. I walked as far as Hotel Vicente and called a cab as I had hurt a leg muscle. Took the cab to the bus station and then walked to where I am staying, getting lost in the process. Was in tears because I could not concentrate and find simple directions.

Hostal Real in Siqueiro was ok, but its not set up to be a winter refuge as the heating is overhead and its hard to dry clothes as there is nothing really to put them on. Same with drying out wet boots. There was also no hot water, just tepid water. I made do as a pilgrim should. Plenty of choice for breakfast though as there was toast, juice, cereal etc.

 

[Former member 49149]

Now reached Santiago. I walked as far as Hotel Vicente and called a cab as I had hurt a leg muscle. Took the cab to the bus station and then walked to where I am staying, getting lost in the process. Was in tears because I could not concentrate and find simple directions.

Hostal Real in Siqueiro was ok, but its not set up to be a winter refuge as the heating is overhead and its hard to dry clothes as there is nothing really to put them on. Same with drying out wet boots. There was also no hot water, just tepid water. I made do as a pilgrim should. Plenty of choice for breakfast though as there was toast, juice, cereal etc.

Ah, Caroline, so sorry, about the pain and getting lost and the tears... by now, you should be either worse or better. Which is it? You have received invitations to call in to at least two places in Santiago so I hope that will encourage you. Well done, if you have completed your Camino, and courage if you are continuing! Thanks for your posts. I still have to copy down the pertinent points, for future reference.

 

[CarolineMathieson]

I am better now. Sybille came to find me when I texted her I was lost. I was just around the corner actually! My plan now is to take half the backpack contents and walk to Finisterre to see if I can manage that and if so I will then go and walk the Portuguese route in the new year. Not sure yet whether to start in Porto or LIsbon though. @kirkie you mentioned two invitations but I only remember one at pilgrim house. What was the other one?

 

[Former member 49149]

I am better now. Sybille came to find me when I texted her I was lost. I was just around the corner actually! My plan now is to take half the backpack contents and walk to Finisterre to see if I can manage that and if so I will then go and walk the Portuguese route in the new year. Not sure yet whether to start in Porto or LIsbon though. @kirkie you mentioned two invitations but I only remember one at pilgrim house. What was the other one?

one was Sybille, and the other was natefaith, but I could be wrong... Glad you are better than when you were worse! Wishing you a quiet peace these days...Happy Christmas.

 

[CarolineMathieson]

@natefaith Thank you for the invitation but pilgrim house is closed until 11 March 2019. There was a notice on the window and the door was locked. Apparently there is a xmas party there tonight but there is no information in the window about that. I have another invitation for tonight.

 

[Former member 49149]

Whatever, wherever, i hope you will find your place and space, and go to bed happily and thankfully! And then when you have decided, keep posting from your next camino!

 

[donalomahony]

Caroline, Happy Christmas

 

[GreenArcher83]

Heading off to Madrid and then Ferrol (Galicia) today for a much needed rest and recuperative very long walk. I will be away until the end of January, so I have no idea where I will actually be on either xmas day or new years day.

This year has been the toughest one both physically, mentally and emotionally for me that I have ever had. I will be glad to see the back of 2018 for sure!

Getting the bus from Madrid Airport to Ferrol at midnight tonight then walking to Neda tomorrow. This camino will be in the shortest possible stages, as I am using it as a training walk for the Camino Portuguese or something. This route is unusual in that it has refuges that are still open this time of year and that the daily stages can be made short which suites me. Even if I need to stay in a Hostal, there seem to be ones very near the route that are still bookable via booking.com etc.

Hello, looking at doing a winter Camino Ingles too - but mid February. My main worry is finding accommodations. From your posts, it looks like you had no problem. How cold and wet does it get? Am I crazy to even think of doing this?

 

[CarolineMathieson]

It was not cold really but it did get wet and windy. I bought an umbrella in Ferrol because of the rain. No trouble with accomodation although I was alone each time except for Betanzos.