I finished my Master's Degree in June of 1977 (Ancient & Medieval European Studies, 'natch!) and had some free time. So I bought a Eurailpass, and, with a backpack quite primitive by today's standards, flew to Europe from NY via Iceland and Luxemburg to do the almost stereotypical young-American-with-a backpack-and-a-Eurailpass "cool thing"!
Now, I didn't set off thinking of myself as a pilgrim but over the course of the Summer I came honestly to realize that I was one, after a fashion. I had a list of sites to see, almost all of them religious.... Lourdes was at the top of my list of places to visit, and there I had the most profound, life-transforming and life-enhancing experience of my life. Spent the rest of the Summer riding a religious "high"....
Santiago de Compostela was second on my list. At the time I didn't know that anyone was still walking the Way -- in fact, the idea of walking never even crossed my mind! I trained from Lourdes to Santiago via Burgos and Madrid, and arrived -- overnight train! -- not long after dawn on a lovely summer's day.
I allowed myself one whole day to visit -- I thought that that would be sufficient. Hard now to believe that I was ever so green and naïve!
The rail station was either where it is now, or somewhere very nearby; I remember little about it. I checked my bag into a big cheap metal locker at the station. I then walked from the station into the centro, and along the Rua Franco to the Plaza de Obradoiro. The Rua looked then much as it does now. Fewer trinket shops, perhaps....
The Obradoiro was quiet, and entirely pilgrim free! I was able to enter the Cathedral via the Portico de Gloria, and press my hand into the now-forbidden handprint.... The Cathedral interior was not crowded, and lent itself to leisurely sightseeing. I took my time. I was then present for a mid-day Mass, but the butafumeiro did not swing.... Exiting via the Silversmith's Square I observed two or three people with big backpacks, pilgrims almost certainly. They were surrounded by people, and I didn't even try to speak with them. They were being treated rather like celebrities!
I slowly walked round through the Obradoiro again, then up through the infamous bagpiper's tunnel. No bagpipers! I walked as far as the Plaza de Cervantes, which I remember well, then wound my way through the University/Mazarelos district and out to the Sta Maria de Sar Church, (about which I was particularly curious from my studies). Bought Sar Museum ticket # 6, which I still have.... I finally walked to the Alameda Park where I sat gratefully admiring the view, until it was time to head back to the train station.... I took no photographs that have survived the years (no cell phones back then, sigh!) , bought no souvenirs, and most definitely got no Compostela!
(Were they even giving out Compostelas in 1977? Who knew!?)
That was 46 years ago! .... A merciful God has allowed me to visit Santiago many times since then., and I love it dearly. My trekking days are now over, alas! but I hope to visit it one last time this coming October.
