- Time of past OR future Camino
- May 2022
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Caomhin - I think you must be so fleet of foot, you floated over the Primativo's many paved roads ; )Check out the Camino Primitivo. (The original Camino, the legendary one that began it all!!)
Starting in Oviedo, mostly mountain paths to Lugo and beyond, views are spectacular if the weather is kind, It is a challenging walk with options that are really wild so you will need to carry provisions.....
I agree: Via de la Plata.I have only walked 4 routes, Frances, Via de la Plata, Invierno, Finisterre.
The 'stand out' is the Via de la Plata.
Not much road walking at all compared to the others.
If I had to guess......maybe 25% roads?
And lots of Roman ruins to explore....... Some not so much ruins at all.
The other three, again a guess and you have walked the Frances, maybe 45-50% roads?
I walked the Via Serrana in 2020. Absolutely superb and yes, no one else out there doing it.Parts of the Via Serrana from La Linea de la Concepcion to Sevilla are very wild and mountainous, the day out of Olvera is walking on an abandoned railway line through 20 tunnels, the amazing historic town of Ronda - it has a bit of everything. Like many other caminos, there is still a fair share of road-walking. Depending on time of year, you might not see another pilgrim.
100%Except for one morning of walk by the highway, the short Camino Lebaniego is an amazing experience, and very, VERY wild if you opt for the variants. It runs on the other side of the mountains where the Salvador (mentioned above) goes.
I wrote about my experience in this thread. The views... i had never seen anything so beautiful before. And I've travelled a fair bit.
Th Olvidado - In my case GPs was pretty important some days ...VERY quiet and remoteEvery route has its joys and every pilgrimage its revelations. I’d love to read opinions and experiences of routes that are more rustic or out-of-the-way than the most-traveled routes (i.e. the frances and the portugues, both of which I have walked, and the norte, which I have not). I’m most interested in routes in Spain, but happy to read of routes toward SdC that start farther afield. The less asphalt and more dirt paths, the better. Special churches and historical ruins much appreciated.
it's fair to say walking a camino is not a wilderness experience (although caminos are profoundly amazing)
Hi Paul. I am hoping to walk the CF in '24. Can you suggest the best resources for these alternative routes? Walking a few extra kms is preferable to the road. I have used Gronze but maybe you have other suggestions. Thanks.Even on the Camino Frances, there are sometime several alternate routes to avoid walking on the road with traffic. You need a good guidebook and be able to walk a few extra Kms over uneven ground.
Sadly, most people just follow the herd and walk alone the road.
-Paul
I read @jungleboy ’s daily posts with gorgeous pictures of this route https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/via-serrana-nov-dec-2022.77740/ . Putting this one on the listParts of the Via Serrana from La Linea de la Concepcion to Sevilla are very wild and mountainous, the day out of Olvera is walking on an abandoned railway line through 20 tunnels, the amazing historic town of Ronda - it has a bit of everything. Like many other caminos, there is still a fair share of road-walking. Depending on time of year, you might not see another pilgrim.
Ooooh, the Madrid to the Salvador might be just the ticket…If you’re looking for less concrete and more scenery I’d make a plug for the Camino de Madrid(having just finished the Madrid myself). Very little concrete other than the first day leaving Madrid, beautiful churches in Segovia and Wamba, ruins, Roman roads etc, throughout. It’s normally very quiet with only a pilgrim or two here and there. Only 2 weeks walking but you can connect to the Frances or Salvador in Sahagun.
If you want to extend the walk by starting before Madrid, you can also take one of the lesser known routes into Madrid such walking the Ucles or one of the others in reverse.
I’m looking for similar routes like you and will start the Lana this April (which has the option of taking the Ucles into Madrid from Cuenca.)
Putting this on the list…For myself, sections of the Olvidado, Lebaneigo (in the beautiful Pico de Europa mountains), Sanabres and the "over much too quick" San Salvador stand out for areas that are especially beatutiful with some "proper" hiking trails.
1) Find it. 2) Click on the number between the poster's name and the post (for examples, I quoted your post that had the number #21 and this is #24). 3) Copy the URL that your browser shows. 4) Paste the URL into your post.I read @jungleboy ’s daily posts with gorgeous pictures of this route (not sure how to link to it).
Would 100% recomend this route if you want to be in the mountains and solo. After talking to the locals at several points this camino would be amazing during Spring.I read @jungleboy ’s daily posts with gorgeous pictures of this route (not sure how to link to it). Putting this one on the list.
Gracias!! I edited my response to add the link.1) Find it. 2) Click on the number between the poster's name and the post (for examples, I quoted your post that had the number #21 and this is #24). 3) Copy the URL that your browser shows. 4) Paste the URL into your post.
The URL of your post #21 will look like this in a post:
If you want to get fancy you can highlight some text and then click the little icon that looks like two links of a chain and then type or paste the URL into the pop-up. Example: Go to post #21 above.
I don’t have a plan for time of year yet. I have to fit it in between work travel and family obligations, so maybe Madrid-Salvador-Primitivo in 2025.VdlP or Mozarabe but not in the Summer
Madrid or Madrid-San Salvador or Madrid- San Salvador- Primitivo
Vasco or Tunnel route through Basque Country
Norte if you like the sea but many think there is to much road walking, mostly rural roads and lot of variants.
What time of year are you walking? How long do you have?
Ultreya
I'll jump in here: The one alternative i know that is not on Gronze is the Dragonte route from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias. Likely the most remote/untravelled of the alternatives. It does involve a fair bit of paved roads, but also some pretty wild dirt trails. However, it likely is the hardest section that one can walk on the Camino Frances due to its extreme elevation profile.Hi Paul. I am hoping to walk the CF in '24. Can you suggest the best resources for these alternative routes? Walking a few extra kms is preferable to the road. I have used Gronze but maybe you have other suggestions. Thanks.
Thank you very much.I'll jump in here: The one alternative i know that is not on Gronze is the Dragonte route from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias. Likely the most remote/untravelled of the alternatives. It does involve a fair bit of paved roads, but also some pretty wild dirt trails. However, it likely is the hardest section that one can walk on the Camino Frances due to its extreme elevation profile.
So if you are well into the Frances and find yourself looking back on the first day in the Pyrenees with fond memories of a beautiful mountain walk, i suggest you look it up. I found it a very rewarding experience, but it sure was exhausting. (And if you do it, consider pre booking in Las Herrerias. We didnt find a bed and had to continue uphill to La Faba. My Log says we walked 30,5km this day, 1520m uphill and 1130m downhill. )
Hi Paul. I am hoping to walk the CF in '24. Can you suggest the best resources for these alternative routes? Walking a few extra kms is preferable to the road. I have used Gronze but maybe you have other suggestions. Thanks.
I wouldn't say there's anything sad about it. I think that it's because simply most people don't walk the Camino as a wilderness/wild/traditional backpacking experience. They walk it for other reasons. I've done my share of real backpacking and time in the wilderness and love it, but I don't walk the Camino to experience that and 90% of the time I am part of "the herd" and I like being part of it. Mooooo......Even on the Camino Frances, there are sometime several alternate routes to avoid walking on the road with traffic. You need a good guidebook and be able to walk a few extra Kms over uneven ground.
Sadly, most people just follow the herd and walk alone the road.
-Paul
That's one I did in 2023. Be prepared for some solitude and to use your Spanish and/or translation app on the Camino de Madrid portion.I don’t have a plan for time of year yet. I have to fit it in between work travel and family obligations, so maybe Madrid-Salvador-Primitivo in 2025.
I think this is a great combo (it would be even better to add on the Primitivo if you have time). I think it’s right up there with another great combo —the Olvidado from Bilbao to Ponferrada, followed by the Invierno.Ooooh, the Madrid to the Salvador might be just the ticket
Based on the great info and advice here, I’ll probably go in late spring (April-May) and if I can swing the time off from work, I’d definitely like to add on the Primitivo. I can’t do it in 2024, though. So, will have fun planning for 2025I think this is a great combo (it would be even better to add on the Primitivo if you have time). I think it’s right up there with another great combo —the Olvidado from Bilbao to Ponferrada, followed by the Invierno.
Time of year might be relevant because the Madrid can be very hot in summer. But I think you’ll love it. What month are you thinking of starting, @sarahchicago?
Would you recommend this for an early spring camino (mid-Feb to March). I'll need to search on Bronze and see that enough albergues will be open.Camino Mozarabe from Almeria to Granada and the Camino Aragones from Col de Somport both have very little road walking. (And very few pilgrims.) Buen Camino
90% of the time I am part of "the herd" and I like being part of it. Mooooo......
Camino Salvador is a personal favorite. It starts in Leon and then ends in Oviedo. (Many pilgrims then continue with the Camino Primitivo) This Camino is more mountainous but take about 5-7 days. It was mostly dirt and the mountains ascend and descend more smoothly than many mountain hikes. It’s well marked and many get a certificate in Oviedo upon completing it. You can get the Salvador credential to be stamped from different places in Leon. The infrastructure is there but there are a few days with great distances between towns.Every route has its joys and every pilgrimage its revelations. I’d love to read opinions and experiences of routes that are more rustic or out-of-the-way than the most-traveled routes (i.e. the frances and the portugues, both of which I have walked, and the norte, which I have not). I’m most interested in routes in Spain, but happy to read of routes toward SdC that start farther afield. The less asphalt and more dirt paths, the better. Special churches and historical ruins much appreciated.
I guess it depends on how many days you take to walk it. I did it in 6 days this summer, with a stop in Bendueños (highly recommended!) and didn't find any days with notably great distances.The infrastructure is there but there are a few days with great distances between towns.
I disagree with that comment — Ender’s guide has many ways to break up the distances, with the longest walk being 9 days! That’s not even 15 km a day. And this guide was written before the albergue in Llanos de Somerón was up and running.The infrastructure is there but there are a few days with great distances between towns.
That's true for me too - my fondest memories are of the mountain trails and spectacular views and a blissful evening at Benduenos. After the latter stages of the walk into Mieres, I was really not looking forward to continuing the road walking from Mieres to Oviedo. It is all part of the package. But we had come to the Salvador from the Madrid/Frances - and did not have much time. We had the choice of walking that stage or spending the time in Oviedo, a town we love. We decided to take a morning bus from Mieres to Oviedo. I know it's anathema to some to do this, unless injured, but we did not regret our decision - and relished every moment in Oviedo.I think that most of us who look back on our walks on the Salvador remember the mountain trails and spectacular views, but there is a lot of asphalt from Mieres to Oviedo, and a fair amount on the walking/bike path into Mieres. It‘s all part of the package, and I love the Salvador, but I think those who are considering it as a “mountain hike” should be aware that there is a lot of road walking after those mountain stages.
Yeah I’ve heard that too and was able to follow that plan mostly except for one day. But the 14-15 ks on certain days felt like 25-30 ks on the Frances. I am not a serious mountain hiker though so if you’re used to mountains it doesn’t apply.I disagree with that comment — Ender’s guide has many ways to break up the distances, with the longest walk being 9 days! That’s not even 15 km a day. And this guide was written before the albergue in Llanos de Somerón was up and running.
I think that most of us who look back on our walks on the Salvador remember the mountain trails and spectacular views, but there is a lot of asphalt from Mieres to Oviedo, and a fair amount on the walking/bike path into Mieres. It‘s all part of the package, and I love the Salvador, but I think those who are considering it as a “mountain hike” should be aware that there is a lot of road walking after those mountain stages.
And if you enjoy long stages and the many ups and downs then it can also be easily done in 4 days. I blame Laurie on giving me that idea and followed her stage recommendationsYeah I’ve heard that too and was able to follow that plan mostly except for one day. But the 14-15 ks on certain days felt like 25-30 ks on the Frances. I am not a serious mountain hiker though so if you’re used to mountains it doesn’t apply.
Or for something still with the pilgrimage theme but gives you much less road walking is the Via Podiensis in France.Every route has its joys and every pilgrimage its revelations. I’d love to read opinions and experiences of routes that are more rustic or out-of-the-way than the most-traveled routes (i.e. the frances and the portugues, both of which I have walked, and the norte, which I have not). I’m most interested in routes in Spain, but happy to read of routes toward SdC that start farther afield. The less asphalt and more dirt paths, the better. Special churches and historical ruins much appreciated.
The Mozarabe does fit this description although (as already stated) "wild" might mean different things to different people. The stretch between Almeria and Granada where you skirt around the Sierra Nevada mountains was, for me, the most magical part. Attached are several photos I made during my walk in March of 2022 to give you a sense of the scale and beauty of this particular route.I’m hoping that the Mozarabe from Almeria is going to be ‘a path less traveled’ as that’s our next planned route for February/March ‘24.
Every route has its joys and every pilgrimage its revelations. I’d love to read opinions and experiences of routes that are more rustic or out-of-the-way than the most-traveled routes (i.e. the frances and the portugues, both of which I have walked, and the norte, which I have not). I’m most interested in routes in Spain, but happy to read of routes toward SdC that start farther afield. The less asphalt and more dirt paths, the better. Special churches and historical ruins much appreciated.m
I’ve walked a few caminos and just finished the Camino de Invierno. I had days without seeing anyone (with locals or pilgrims), some pretty deserted areas. Of the C Frances, Norte, Ingles, Portuguese Central, El Salvador and Primitivo: the INVIERNO was the wildest.Every route has its joys and every pilgrimage its revelations. I’d love to read opinions and experiences of routes that are more rustic or out-of-the-way than the most-traveled routes (i.e. the frances and the portugues, both of which I have walked, and the norte, which I have not). I’m most interested in routes in Spain, but happy to read of routes toward SdC that start farther afield. The less asphalt and more dirt paths, the better. Special churches and historical ruins much appreciated.
Camino del Ebro is certainly out-of-the-way and is one of the least-traveled routes. However, there is not much in the way of accommodation on the small part that I walked several years ago.Every route has its joys and every pilgrimage its revelations. I’d love to read opinions and experiences of routes that are more rustic or out-of-the-way than the most-traveled routes (i.e. the frances and the portugues, both of which I have walked, and the norte, which I have not). I’m most interested in routes in Spain, but happy to read of routes toward SdC that start farther afield. The less asphalt and more dirt paths, the better. Special churches and historical ruins much appreciated.
I would recommend the following... walked both in 2023Every route has its joys and every pilgrimage its revelations. I’d love to read opinions and experiences of routes that are more rustic or out-of-the-way than the most-traveled routes (i.e. the frances and the portugues, both of which I have walked, and the norte, which I have not). I’m most interested in routes in Spain, but happy to read of routes toward SdC that start farther afield. The less asphalt and more dirt paths, the better. Special churches and historical ruins much appreciated.
Thank you, this sounds amazing!I would recommend the following... walked both in 2023
1. Mozarabe from Almaria ~650km
- Roman Ruins in Merida, Arabic influences especially in Granada and Cordoba
- Sierra Nevada Mountains
- some remote sections, not too many people but good facilities
- some great off road walking
2. Geira de Arriros from Braga to SdC
- the best way to get to SdC!, across remote stretches in the mountains in Portugal and Spain
- almost no-one walks it!!
- follows an ancient Roman Toad and then the path of wind merchants
Enjoy! Mick
Thank you for this list- I’ve walked at least parts of a few of these (I’m an Arizonan despite my moniker and current abode, and have walked the R2R and parts of the Az trail and the continental divide in Colorado). I’m planning for pilgrimages rather than hikes now, thus my post title. I find revelation and insight are easier to access in more rustic/rural environments.The Appalachian Trail is very crowded especially at the start in Georgia.
Other great roadless trails, but sometimes with other hikers, are the Wonderland Trail around Mt. Rainer, the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island, and rim to rim in the Grand Canyon.
Three National Scenic Trails without a lot of other backpackers are the Continent Divide Trail, the Arizona Trail, and the Pacific Northwest Trail.
The Via Tolosana—about 800 kilometers from Arles, France, to Spain—has few pèlerins with some road walking.
Can anyone compare ALL the Caminos mentioned above to the Ingles.? It is the only one I have walked thus far ( am only 79 y/o so far)....It is only 115 Km., but lots of good mountain walking.I agree completely with @Quietways. I have walked some of the more remote camino routes, but each one comes with its fair share of road walking. The Salvador has a lot of asphalt into Mieres and from Mieres into Oviedo, but that road walking is combined with a long stretch of mountain glory from Buiza to Pajares and beyond. The Olvidado has some of the most beautiful mountain scenery I’ve seen on a camino, and more days of beautiful mountain scenery than any other camino I’ve walked, but right after one of those jaw-dropping stages from Boñar, you have 6-8 long hard slogging kms on the side of the road. The Baztán has some glorious high hill walking, but there are stretches of road walking in between. As Quietways says, that just inevitably comes with walking village to village. “Proper” thru-hiking trails with no roads are likely to require tents/huts and way fewer services.
Untraveled caminos don’t necessarily come with less road walking (e.g., Invierno, very untraveled, lots of roads). Lots of dirt paths on a camino doesn’t mean remote (e.g., Madrid, least road walking of any camino I’ve walked, but only one “remote” day from Cercedilla). Remote doesn’t mean no road walking (e.g., Olvidado or Salvador). But that’s what the camino is — going from whatever Point A you choose to the same Point B, Santiago.
For interestng historical sites, you will find them on any camino. The short Salvador, for instance, has the gorgeeous pre-romanesque Santa Cristina de Lena about a two minute walk uphill from the camino, but many just walk by. For churches, the Catalán from Llançá to Montserrat was amazing, as is the Castellano-Aragonés. Also lots on the Lana. The Mozárabe and the Levante have tons and tons of castles. Lots of Roman ruins on the Vdlp, some on the Lana too. You may need to take a few detours and do some planning to work them into a walking schedule, but once you settle on a route, it’s just a matter of becoming familiar with the area and checking out what’s nearby.
I think the problem is that there are too many choices, so long as you’re ok with the fact that no matter which camino you walk, you will be walking on the side of a road (most usually on the side of an untraveled road) for a chunk of the time.
"mountain walking" on the Ingles? The route doesn't get much above 400 metres. I've walked the Ingles twice and found some fairly stiff hills like the climb out of Pontedeume but nothing I would describe as mountains. Most of the main Camino routes have sections far higher and with more difficult walking underfoot than the Ingles which is one of the least demanding paths.Can anyone compare ALL the Caminos mentioned above to the Ingles.? It is the only one I have walked thus far ( am only 79 y/o so far)....It is only 115 Km., but lots of good mountain walking.
I
One man’s hill is another man’s mountain. In the flatlands of Texas 400 metres is the Himalayas."mountain walking" on the Ingles? The route doesn't get much above 400 metres. I've walked the Ingles twice and found some fairly stiff hills like the climb out of Pontedeume but nothing I would describe as mountains. Most of the main Camino routes have sections far higher and with more difficult walking underfoot than the Ingles which is one of the least demanding paths.
True. Perceptions of these things are relative. I was born and raised within sight of the Ochil Hills in central Scotland. Modest in height by Scottish standards - they only reach 721m - but punching above their weight visually as they rise as an steep escarpment from a flood plain only 10m above sea level. A good stiff test of the legs and lungs but no one local would ever refer to them as "mountains" - they were simply "the hills" or "the Ochils". The highest point in the UK is Ben Nevis which is 1,345m. People are rightly urged to treat it with respect and be well prepared when walking to the summit. Getting there is regarded as something of an achievement. But even Ben Nevis is a pimple by European mountain standards. Just over a week ago I was walking the Camino route on Gran Canaria and crossed over a mountain pass 400m higher than the summit of Ben Nevis only to find young children wandering about hand-in-hand with their parents on a Saturday morning stroll!One man’s hill is another man’s mountain. In the flatlands of Texas 400 metres is the Himalayas.
Thank you.....I used "mountain walking " out of context. Would you agree that '' hills" would be more appropriate when describing the Ingles.???True. Perceptions of these things are relative. I was born and raised within sight of the Ochil Hills in central Scotland. Modest in height by Scottish standards - they only reach 721m - but punching above their weight visually as they rise as an steep escarpment from a flood plain only 10m above sea level. A good stiff test of the legs and lungs but no one local would ever refer to them as "mountains" - they were simply "the hills" or "the Ochils". The highest point in the UK is Ben Nevis which is 1,345m. People are rightly urged to treat it with respect and be well prepared when walking to the summit. Getting there is regarded as something of an achievement. But even Ben Nevis is a pimple by European mountain standards. Just over a week ago I was walking the Camino route on Gran Canaria and crossed over a mountain pass 400m higher than the summit of Ben Nevis only to find young children wandering about hand-in-hand with their parents on a Saturday morning stroll!@PProffitt asked for comparisons between the Camino Ingles and other routes being mentioned in the thread. If he/she considers the Ingles to be "mountain walking" then routes such as the Primitivo, the Sanabres, the Salvador or even the Camino Frances are a far more substantial challenge in that respect.
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Totally agree....Have come to realize that i used " mountain walking" out of context when describing the elevations of the Ingles........sorry.......ps it was my first Camino.....One man’s hill is another man’s mountain. In the flatlands of Texas 400 metres is the Himalayas.
I would. There are definitely steep hills along the way on the Ingles but most of the route is on very gently undulating terrain. It really does not compare with the long steep ascents and descents on routes like the Primitivo or the Frances where the highest points are more than three times the elevation of the highest points of the Ingles.Thank you.....I used "mountain walking " out of context. Would you agree that '' hills" would be more appropriate when describing the Ingles.???
Point taken.....Looking forward to walking the NORTE........I would. There are definitely steep hills along the way on the Ingles but most of the route is on very gently undulating terrain. It really does not compare with the long steep ascents and descents on routes like the Primitivo or the Frances where the highest points are more than three times the elevation of the highest points of the Ingles.
Yes, I would. Walked both the Inglés and the Primitivo this year, a couple of steep hills on the Inglés but nothing more. Loved it. But the Primitivo is better, higher, and wilderThank you.....I used "mountain walking " out of context. Would you agree that '' hills" would be more appropriate when describing the Ingles.???
YES, That would WELL qualify......thank you...Camino de Madrid on the Roman road over the pass at Fuenfria, the highest point on any Spanish Camino at 1796 meters. Maybe the mountain walk you’re looking for?
Agree 100%. Alison and Alberto at Bodenaya are Fantastic host's. And I do not say that lightly. A highlight of my Camino.When you walk the Primitivo schedule a night in Bodenaya. The albergue used to be called "Alex's" but may have a new name. By any name, delightful. Buen Camino
Lots of road walking, especially days 2-4 - but it's a fantastic camino.Vasco or Tunnel route through Basque Country
AgreeCheck out the Camino Primitivo. (The original Camino, the legendary one that began it all!!)
Starting in Oviedo, mostly mountain paths to Lugo and beyond, views are spectacular if the weather is kind, It is a challenging walk with options that are really wild so you will need to carry provisions.....
Camino de Madrid on the Roman road over the pass at Fuenfria, the highest point on any Spanish Camino at 1796 meters. Maybe the mountain walk you’re looking for?
I disagree with the statement there is not reasonable accommodation on this route. It did get sketchy during Covid but otherwise I have found accommodation here adequate w/o sleeping in doorway overhangs.Camino de Madrid does not have the highest point in Spain…
The nearby Camino Complutense has a higher pass at Puerto del Reventon (2039m). I haven’t walked yet, I’ve almost got over there a few times. It will happen this year or next.
Oh - and for truly wild/less travelled routes, bring lots of money due to lack of pilgrim accommodations. Or carry a tent / sleep under church doorway overhangs.
I disagree with the statement there is not reasonable accommodation on this route. It did get sketchy during Covid but otherwise I have found accommodation here adequate w/o sleeping in doorway overhangs.
I have to admit that I've been one to share that the Fuenfria pass is the highest on a Spanish Camino, which I read in one of the guides when walking the Madrid this year. Perhaps the guide was written before the Complutense was accepted as an official Camino route.Camino de Madrid does not have the highest point in Spain…
The nearby Camino Complutense has a higher pass at Puerto del Reventon (2039m). I haven’t walked yet, I’ve almost got over there a few times. It will happen this year or next.
Oh - and for truly wild/less travelled routes, bring lots of money due to lack of pilgrim accommodations. Or carry a tent / sleep under church doorway overhangs.
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