Where to next? Favourite caminos

[MaxHelado]

I walked the Portugués last year (Variante Espiritual) and will walk it again this year. I have fallen in love with the Camino and I am now thinking that I could fit in another walk of 3 to 4 weeks in September or October of this year.

So where next? I would greatly value suggestions and insights.

The Portugués ticked all my boxes which were:
1. Stunning scenery.
2. A good infrastructure. There was always somewhere to stop for coffee or food and somewhere to spend the night.
3. Short(er) distances between towns and villages. I am still relatively new to walking, 69 years old and one of the reasons for walking is to improve my fitness. I am not there yet!
4. Interaction with others. This could be with pilgrims and/or with locals. I speak pretty good Spanish and want lots of opportunities to use it. I have no wish to walk in crowds but nor do I want to spend days walking alone.

Finishing in Santiago is not an imperative but would be a bonus.

Writing this now it seems more obvious to me that I want to lose myself in Spain.

Any ideas would be very much appreciated.

 

[J Willhaus]

Yes the CF would be a good choice for infrastructure, but crowded at that time of year. If you want something less crowded maybe start in Salamanca or Zamora and take the Sanabres? Start in Seville and walk to Zamora? Lots of choices.

 

[Former member 92300]

Hard to say!

I loved the Camino Frances. Lots of history and infrastructure. But I was also blessed that I did it without crowd (COVID). My daughter did it the following year and loved it though - even with the crowds. Still - I do think everyone should do it at least once.

I did the first half of the Norte with the Primitivo this past year. The Norte was BEAUTIFUL (especially when hugging the coast) - but I didn't like going through so many cities and it felt more like a hike across country without the feeling of being on a Pilgrimage. I enjoyed the Primitivo much more. Felt like a more remote version of the Frances. Both were challenging routes with lots of hills/mountains. And longer distances between towns.

This summer I decided to do half of the Via Francigena, Canterbury to Aosta (and hopefully the rest next year). It doesn't have the infrastructure you find on the Camino - so it will be interesting and more isolated. I will be lucky if I see just a few pilgrims before Switzerland. In Italy it still isn't busy - but there will at least be more pilgrims and more pilgrim accommodations.

 

[MaxHelado]

Yes the CF would be a good choice for infrastructure, but crowded at that time of year. If you want something less crowded maybe start in Salamanca or Zamora and take the Sanabres? Start in Seville and walk to Zamora? Lots of choices.

I don't really fancy the CF after reading the posts in the forum about numbers and the lack of available accommodation. I am sure that I would be happier somewhere quieter (although I don't want to walk alone every day).
The Sanabres sounds like a good idea and if I stopped in Ourense I would have an easy train journey on to Santiago or back to Madrid. I am a big fan of JungleBoy's podcast ("Spirit of the Camino") and I think he found the Sanabres beautiful to walk but maybe without (many) beautiful towns of villages?

 

[MaxHelado]

Hard to say!

I loved the Camino Frances. Lots of history and infrastructure. But I was also blessed that I did it without crowd (COVID). My daughter did it the following year and loved it though - even with the crowds. Still - I do think everyone should do it at least once.

I did the first half of the Norte with the Primitivo this past year. The Norte was BEAUTIFUL (especially when hugging the coast) - but I didn't like going through so many cities and it felt more like a hike across country without the feeling of being on a Pilgrimage. I enjoyed the Primitivo much more. Felt like a more remote version of the Frances. Both were challenging routes with lots of hills/mountains. And longer distances between towns.

This summer I decided to do half of the Via Francigena, Canterbury to Aosta (and hopefully the rest next year). It doesn't have the infrastructure you find on the Camino - so it will be interesting and more isolated. I will be lucky if I see just a few pilgrims before Switzerland. In Italy it still isn't busy - but there will at least be more pilgrims and more pilgrim accommodations.

Both were challenging routes with lots of hills/mountains. And longer distances between towns.

Sounds perfect except........I think the hills and the distances would mean no tick in one of my boxes!

 

[J Willhaus]

Also easy to get to Zamora on the train for a starting point.

 

[David Tallan]

I walked the Portugués last year (Variante Espiritual) and will walk it again this year. I have fallen in love with the Camino and I am now thinking that I could fit in another walk of 3 to 4 weeks in September or October of this year.

So where next? I would greatly value suggestions and insights.

The Portugués ticked all my boxes which were:
1. Stunning scenery.
2. A good infrastructure. There was always somewhere to stop for coffee or food and somewhere to spend the night.
3. Short(er) distances between towns and villages. I am still relatively new to walking, 69 years old and one of the reasons for walking is to improve my fitness. I am not there yet!
4. Interaction with others. This could be with pilgrims and/or with locals. I speak pretty good Spanish and want lots of opportunities to use it. I have no wish to walk in crowds but nor do I want to spend days walking alone.

Finishing in Santiago is not an imperative but would be a bonus.

Writing this now it seems more obvious to me that I want to lose myself in Spain.

Any ideas would be very much appreciated.

The Camino Frances ticks all of your boxes. You can start three or four weeks from Santiago or start further back and return later and finish it on a second visit.

Reading further, I see:

I don't really fancy the CF after reading the posts in the forum about numbers and the lack of available accommodation. I am sure that I would be happier somewhere quieter (although I don't want to walk alone every day).

That was at a very specific point of time. In general, the Camino Frances has more available accommodations than many other routes, including more options of how long to make your day's walk. Similarly, with the "crowds" that people warn about. This is a perfect example of why I strongly believe the scaremongering about the "crowds" on the Frances do a disservice to prospective pilgrims.

If you aren't starting in SJPP in early September, accommodations shouldn't be any sort of problem. If you want a quiet Camino, it is very easy to find along the Camino Frances until perhaps Sarria. The section after Sarria itself won't be as big a problem in September or October as it might be in July and August. And if you want less crowds there are plenty of strategies to reduce them, including not stopping at the places that the major guidebooks recommend (very easy because the villages with accommodations are closely spaced in this section with plenty of options to choose from).

But if you really don't want to walk the CF, it's your choice. The Sanabres and VDLP that others have suggested may be good options. You will certainly find less pilgrims. Of course, less pilgrims means less infrastructure and less choices about where to stop, which seemed to be the primary boxes you want to tick. So it will be a question of which of thoise boxes you are ready to let go of in order to stay off the CF.

 

[MaxHelado]

The Camino Frances ticks all of your boxes. You can start three or four weeks from Santiago or start further back and return later and finish it on a second visit.

Reading further, I see:

That was at a very specific point of time. In general, the Camino Frances has more available accommodations than many other routes, including more options of how long to make your day's walk. Similarly, with the "crowds" that people warn about. This is a perfect example of why I strongly believe the scaremongering about the "crowds" on the Frances do a disservice to prospective pilgrims.

If you aren't starting in SJPP in early September, accommodations shouldn't be any sort of problem. If you want a quiet Camino, it is very easy to find along the Camino Frances until perhaps Sarria. The section after Sarria itself won't be as big a problem in September or October as it might be in July and August. And if you want less crowds there are plenty of strategies to reduce them, including not stopping at the places that the major guidebooks recommend (very easy because the villages with accommodations are closely spaced in this section with plenty of options to choose from).

But if you really don't want to walk the CF, it's your choice. The Sanabres and VDLP that others have suggested may be good options. You will certainly find less pilgrims. Of course, less pilgrims means less infrastructure and less choices about where to stop, which seemed to be the primary boxes you want to tick. So it will be a question of which of thoise boxes you are ready to let go of in order to stay off the CF.

David, thank you so much for taking the time to write this. It is very, very helpful and also reassuring. Clearly the CF should be on my list, or at least a part of it. I confess to having the nagging feeling that whilst it is the road most travelled it might not be the road "best" travelled. I do want to feel "lost in Spain" where I can hear few english voices and meet few english speakers. Sorry! I am a very proud anglophile but confess that I enjoy disappearing into the Spanish culture when I'm travelling in Spain.

 

[MaxHelado]

Also easy to get to Zamora on the train for a starting point.

Can you clarify? Train from Madrid? I know I could take a look at Rome to Rio and try to figure it out but wondered if you would be so kind as to give me a steer.

 

[peregrino_tom]

So where next? I would greatly value suggestions and insights.

Have a look at the Vasco. I don't understand why it's not recommended more on the forum. It may not match your requirements exactly, but it'll probably give you wonder and delights that you didn't realise should have been on your list in the first place...

 

[roving_rufus]

Have a look at the Vasco. I don't understand why it's not recommended more on the forum. It may not match your requirements exactly, but it'll probably give you wonder and delights that you didn't realise should have been on your list in the first place...

I would second but starting in Bayonne (via bayonne) heading to Irun following camino or voie littoral before veering off on Vasco/Via Bayonne. After Publa de Arganzon you can decide whether to head to Burgos or Santo Domingo. Easy to do short distances, well marked, a steady trickle of pilgrims, plenty of albergues particularly on the Burgos route. You get sea, mountains, and plains

Camino Vasco del Interior | Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

El Camino Vasco del Interior (o Vía de Bayona, o Camino del túnel de San Adrián) enlaza Irún con el Camino Francés; dicho enlace puede ser en Santo Domingo de la Calzada o en Burgos, según el itinerario preferido. El camino cruza la Sierra de Aizkorri por el singular túnel de San Adrián, un...

www.gronze.com

 

[J Willhaus]

Can you clarify? Train from Madrid? I know I could take a look at Rome to Rio and try to figure it out but wondered if you would be so kind as to give me a steer.

Several direct trains daily from Chamartin Station in Madrid-- about an hour and 15 minute trip to Zamora. Take the Cercanias train from Madrid T4 to Chamartin Station to avoid city traffic.

 

[MaxHelado]

Several direct trains daily from Chamartin Station in Madrid-- about an hour and 15 minute trip to Zamora. Take the Cercanias train from Madrid T4 to Chamartin Station to avoid city traffic.

 

[dfox]

Had walked CF and CP.

The St. Francis Way in Italy and the Kumano Kudo in Japan are on my radar. (2025 is a Jubilee Year in Rome.)

To obtain the "dual pilgrim certificate" is one of the reasons for Kumano Kudo, a scenic hiking trail.

 

[violetwongchooiwan]

Had walked CF and CP.

The St. Francis Way in Italy and the Kumano Kudo in Japan are on my radar. (2025 is a Jubilee Year in Rome.)

To obtain the "dual pilgrim certificate" is one of the reasons for Kumano Kudo, a scenic hiking trail.

Kumano Kudo is beautiful. Unfortunately, I didn't complete the route, hence, no dual pilgrim certificate. I will do it again, hopefully in 2024.

 

[Rita Flower]

The Sanabres sounds like a good idea and if I stopped in Ourense I would have an easy train journey on to Santiago or back to Madrid.

The Sanabres is beautiful but I wouldn’t miss the last 100 Km after Ourense - if you have time. I was very happy I walked it last year. I felt this section will become much busier as the last 100 Km of the Frances continues to increase in popularity. And of course the stunning new Galician municipal albergues are readily available.
Bun Camino.

 

[MaxHelado]

The Sanabres is beautiful but I wouldn’t miss the last 100 Km after Ourense

Because..........? It is particulary beautiful?

the stunning new Galician municipal albergues are readily available.

Can you say more about this? I haven't heard about this.

 

[samba]

I walked the Portugués last year (Variante Espiritual) and will walk it again this year. I have fallen in love with the Camino and I am now thinking that I could fit in another walk of 3 to 4 weeks in September or October of this year.

So where next? I would greatly value suggestions and insights.

The Portugués ticked all my boxes which were:
1. Stunning scenery.
2. A good infrastructure. There was always somewhere to stop for coffee or food and somewhere to spend the night.
3. Short(er) distances between towns and villages. I am still relatively new to walking, 69 years old and one of the reasons for walking is to improve my fitness. I am not there yet!
4. Interaction with others. This could be with pilgrims and/or with locals. I speak pretty good Spanish and want lots of opportunities to use it. I have no wish to walk in crowds but nor do I want to spend days walking alone.

Finishing in Santiago is not an imperative but would be a bonus.

Writing this now it seems more obvious to me that I want to lose myself in Spain.

Any ideas would be very much appreciated.

I loved de La Lana . It’s the “ wool route” and I think I recall started in Malaga . Just check . But pretty , varied , some longer bits between albergue , but mostly 20/ 35 km , and a few people . Like you want to use Spanish and feel I’m in the culture . We walked about 3 weeks and I think that’s the length . Can end in Santiago . Buen Camino whatever you choose

 

[MaxHelado]

Thank you all for your contributions. Enormously helpful.
I now have 3 routes planned: Camino de Madrid, Via de la Plata and the Camino Frances.
I think I will walk the Camino Frances this year as I will be walking alone and then walk the Camino de Madrid and/or the VdlP next year with my wife.

This forum rocks! (as my kids would say).

 

[Rita Flower]

Because..........? It is particulary beautiful?

Can you say more about this? I haven't heard about this.

Ourense to Santiago - hot springs/baths at Ourense, beautiful forest paths every day, great little towns, the monestary at Oseira, the walk into Santiago

Galician municipal albergues - only a few years old or brand new, stylish architecture and design, underfloor heating, good bunk bed in 8 bed dorms (mostly); fabulous bathrooms, new kitchens with stove/microwave (though for some reason without the usual kitchen equipment), separate accommodation for those with health conditions or additional needs.
They were usually open door so you could just go in on arrival. The hospitalaro would come around 1.00 pm and 6.00 pm to check you in. All for €8.

 

[MaxHelado]

Ourense to Santiago - hot springs/baths at Ourense, beautiful forest paths every day, great little towns, the monestary at Oseira, the walk into Santiago

Galician municipal albergues - only a few years old or brand new, stylish architecture and design, underfloor heating, good bunk bed in 8 bed dorms (mostly) fabulous bathrooms, new kitchens with stove/microwave (though for some reason without the usual kitchen equipment), separate accommodation for those with health conditions or additional needs.
They were usually open door so you could just go in on arrival. The hospitalaro would come around 1.00 pm and 6.00 pm to check you in. All for €8.

Wow!

 

[SethCamino]

Ourense to Santiago - hot springs/baths at Ourense, beautiful forest paths every day, great little towns, the monestary at Oseira, the walk into Santiago

Galician municipal albergues - only a few years old or brand new, stylish architecture and design, underfloor heating, good bunk bed in 8 bed dorms (mostly) fabulous bathrooms, new kitchens with stove/microwave (though for some reason without the usual kitchen equipment), separate accommodation for those with health conditions or additional needs.
They were usually open door so you could just go in on arrival. The hospitalaro would come around 1.00 pm and 6.00 pm to check you in. All for €8.

I’ll be walking the Sanabrés and specifically from Ourense to Santiago and onto Muxía in June of this year. I’m SO excited and your description of the route and pictures have made me even more excited to start. This will be my second trip (my first was in 2018 beginning in Porto and ending in Muxía by way of Santiago and Finisterre.) Thank you for sharing your experience on here. Like Max said, this forum rocks!

 

[MaxHelado]

Ourense to Santiago - hot springs/baths at Ourense, beautiful forest paths every day, great little towns, the monestary at Oseira, the walk into Santiago

Galician municipal albergues - only a few years old or brand new, stylish architecture and design, underfloor heating, good bunk bed in 8 bed dorms (mostly); fabulous bathrooms, new kitchens with stove/microwave (though for some reason without the usual kitchen equipment), separate accommodation for those with health conditions or additional needs.
They were usually open door so you could just go in on arrival. The hospitalaro would come around 1.00 pm and 6.00 pm to check you in. All for €8.

Which is the Albergue in the photos?

 

[Rita Flower]

The lovely lounge area is in the brand new albergue at Oseira beside the monastery. The bathroom photo is before Ourense at A Gudina. Both very good examples of what to expect in Galicia. There was only one albergue that I remember in an older building - but full of character - in Cea.

 

[Airfix]

After walking the Portuguese central route a few years ago we went back and walked the coastal route to Caminha last year. But instead of going on to SDC we spent a week walking around the Peneda-Geres National Park. Excellent walking experience, with rare wildlife. We were lucky enough to see Golden Eagles. If you like quiet mountain trails with genuine local accommodation we can recommend it.

 

[Fred Gaudet]

If you like mountains and forests you might consider the Olvidado. Or if you want to be by yourself, you could check out the Dos Faros -- which is not yet officially accepted as a camino but has a good web site and is well marked. ( I only saw three others walking the Dos Faros.)

 

[SethCamino]

The lovely lounge area is in the brand new albergue at Oseira beside the monastery. The bathroom photo is before Ourense at A Gudina. Both very good examples of what to expect in Galicia. There was only one albergue that I remember in an older building - but full of character - in Cea.

Rita, question for you. I thought I had my route more or less decided, which was to complete the Sanabrés from Ourense to SDC over the course of six walking days. But I’m noticing here (and on some other websites I follow) that most people tend to complete this section in 4-5 days. From your experience, is six days too much time? Do you recommend any particular alternative routes, detours, or overnight stays somewhere between Ourense and SDC? Any insight is helpful and much appreciated.

 

[AlwynWellington]

I walked the Portugués (Variante Espiritual) in 2022 and will walk it again this year.
I have fallen in love with the Camino.
I am now thinking that I could fit in another walk of 3 to 4 weeks in September or October of this year.

The Portugués ticked all my boxes which were:
1. Stunning scenery.
2. A good infrastructure. There was always somewhere to stop for coffee or food and somewhere to spend the night.
3. Short(er) distances between towns and villages. I am relatively new to walking and 69: a reason is to improve fitness.
4. Interaction with others - pilgrims and/or locals. I speak pretty good Spanish and want to use it.

I think I will walk the Camino Frances this year as I will be walking alone

I read some very good suggestions above that I will put on my to do list.

September and October are relatively popular months.

Your calendar age is irrelevant: your general approach is the most important factor.

So, where, in Spain, to start the Camino Frances for a 3 or 4 week trek?

I suggest you start at Pamplona.

And I suggest you stop at Astorga.

There is nothing special about going over a steep hill, especially if your training (around London) has not prepared you for it. While I did the 25 km in under 6 hours, I had been walking for the 3 week before from Le Puy (and so 'match fit) and was dressed light for the weather throughout the day.

There is but one hill that needs consideration.
A few hours after leaving Pamplona you encounter Alto del Perdon. The path up is quite gentle. The issue is the descent over large loose rubble. One alternative from the top is to go down the (4 digit B) roads to Uterga.

There is a slightly awkward hill on leaving Villafranca Montes de Oca.

And a slightly interesting hill shortly after leaving Castojeriz. A very much younger pilgrim passed me at the bottom just as I was resuming my back pack and we had an informal race to the top (100 m elevation along a 1 km straight up road) outcome - a dead heat.

Apert from the 17 km stretch after leaving Carrión de los Condes, your need for good infrastructure should be met.

Love to hear what you decide.

In the mean time I say kia kaha, kia māia, kia mana'wa'nui (take care, be strong, confident and patient)

 

[GraemeHall]

Rita, question for you. I thought I had my route more or less decided, which was to complete the Sanabrés from Ourense to SDC over the course of six walking days. But I’m noticing here (and on some other websites I follow) that most people tend to complete this section in 4-5 days. From your experience, is six days too much time? Do you recommend any particular alternative routes, detours, or overnight stays somewhere between Ourense and SDC? Any insight is helpful and much appreciated.

I completed La Plata / Sanabrés a week or so ago, and my 'stages' from Ourense were:
Oseira (31km); A Laxe (32); Dornelas (22); Deseiro (20); Santiago (11).
So that's 5 days, with a very short final "day" into Santiago. I'm 75 and average about 4.5km/h.
I hope this helps ....