Where are the pilgrims?

[Jersey]

I walked Leon to Mazarife Monday & on to Hospital de Orbigo this morning.
I came across no more than 10 pilgrims walking.
And maybe 20-25 biking.
Maybe my late starts? Monday 9am today 8am

 

[SabsP]

I walked Leon to Mazarife Monday & on to Hospital de Orbigo this morning.
I came across no more than 10 pilgrims walking.
And maybe 20-25 biking.
Maybe my late starts? Monday 9am today 8am

And in the albergues?

 

[domigee]

I walked Leon to Mazarife Monday & on to Hospital de Orbigo this morning.
I came across no more than 10 pilgrims walking.
And maybe 20-25 biking.
Maybe my late starts? Monday 9am today 8am

Love this! That's been my experience for 3 caminos Enjoy!

 

[SYates]

All in Santiago, yesterday arrived here 2200+ pilgrims, today's statistic isn't online - yet, but keep your eye on https://oficinadelperegrino.com/

Buen Camino and Happy Saint James Day, SY

 

[Jersey]

And in the albergues?

Yup. You are right. Have seen no pilgrims in local bars eating. A few having drinks.
In both Marzarife & Hospital de Orbigo churches i saw no one throwing a single coin into the candle box. A shame, I never expected

 

[SYates]

And how many pilgrims are in the albergues etc? BC SY

 

[hotelmedicis]

"And as they talked and deliberated, Jesus himself came up and walked along with them, but their eyes were kept from recognizing him." Luke 24:14-16

 

[JulieandPeter]

We finished on July 2 and had the same experience up until Sarria (and even the leg between Sarria and Portomarin was still pretty quiet). We also left around 9:00 a.m. each morning (always the last to leave) and rarely saw another soul on the trail and only once experienced a completely full albergue (in Sarria - a school group was staying at our albergue). There were always plenty of other people in the albergues and we met a lot of nice people in the evening and made some lasting friendships, however, we pretty much had the road to ourselves most days. The closer we got to Santiago after Sarria, the more crowded it got (at some points there were clusters of 30 - 40 people especially near cafes along the trail). Enjoy your walk! Buen Camino.

 

[CaminoDebrita]

Both times I walked the Camino Frances--the first beginning 1 October, and the second very early spring 2016--I had days in which I walked completely alone. It was surprising to me, after hearing about the crowded CF.

I never had busy, noisy days--not even through Sarria, although on my second journey, I made friends with three great guys and we stopped at every bar and had drinks the last day walking into Santiago.

 

[SYates]

Also to consider: As you are walking/moving forward, so are others, meaning that you see on average only the pilgrims that are half an hour before/after you on the trail, not the total. Buen Camino from a pilgrim busy Santiago, SY

 

[trecile]

I walked Leon to Mazarife Monday & on to Hospital de Orbigo this morning.
I came across no more than 10 pilgrims walking.
And maybe 20-25 biking.
Maybe my late starts? Monday 9am today 8am

I'm in Villar de Mazarife today. I've mostly been walking alone. There seem to be fewer pilgrims than when I walked last September.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Only 1361 waltzed into the PO yesterday, that's down 1000 from the day before!

Shhhh... let's not call them back.

 

[rector]

My wife, granddaughter, and myself walker from Ponferradda late June early July and we were remarking that there seemed to be many fewer on the sections up to Sarria than our previous jaunts.

 

[Jersey]

I'm in Villar de Mazarife today. I've mostly been walking alone. There seem to be fewer pilgrims than when I walked last September.

I walked to Astorga today. Saw maybe 30 walkers.
There are a lot in town but I'm not about to start counting them lol

 

[Ian Afloat]

Quite a few in Larrasoaña tonight.

 

[t2andreo]

I am working at the Pilgrim Office and I can tell you that the Santiago feast day numbers are lower than in recent years. There are two hypotheses making the rounds here:

1. The Feast fell on a Tuesday, instead on Friday, Saturday, Sunday or Monday. Of course, when the feast of the Apostle falls on a Sunday, that connotes as Holy Year. The next one is in 2021. This being the case, it is reasonable to postulate that the daily pilgrim numbers will be lower for the next two years. This hypothesis addresses primarily Spanish pilgrims.

2. This year was the 100 year anniversary of the Marian apparitions at Fatima, in Portugal. Many Spanish and Portuguese pilgrims may have devoted their personal Camino budget for 2017 to making the pilgrim to Fatima.

As regards #2, I was walking the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon at this time and can attest to the HUGE volume of pilgrims headed, en masse, towards Fatima.

I hope this helps.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I was told, in 2014, that the "middle bit" (between about Pamplona and Astorga/Ponferrada or so) is less crowded in the summer than in the Spring and Autumn, because those walking "the whole Camino" more often than not try and "avoid the summer crowds" -- but given that everyone is doing this, they all end up in the crowd of those avoiding the crowd.

 

[jamesw3435]

When I walked in march of 2015, I left each day around 630 645 a.m most people were getting ready or had already left as I walked out the door.

 

[formerly multipurpose]

All in Santiago, yesterday arrived here 2200+ pilgrims, today's statistic isn't online - yet, but keep your eye on https://oficinadelperegrino.com/

Buen Camino and Happy Saint James Day, SY

Are you the S. Yates that wrote the Pilgrim tips book? If you are thank you excellent book. God willing I'm starting my Camino Frances on Sept 24th of this year.

 

[Jersey]

When I walked in march of 2015, I left each day around 630 645 a.m most people were getting ready or had already left as I walked out the door.

Getting up early never killed anyone
But why take a chance? LOL

 

[SYates]

Are you the S. Yates that wrote the Pilgrim tips book? If you are thank you excellent book. God willing I'm starting my Camino Frances on Sept 24th of this year.

Guilty as charged ;-) Buen Camino, SY

 

[SabsP]

Getting up early never killed anyone
But why take a chance? LOL

Did you like Tio Pepe? Anyway...enjoy the next days.

 

[Jersey]

Did you like Tio Pepe? Anyway...enjoy the next days.

Good place. Great room. Very friendly
Pilgrims menu was OK

 

[jamesw3435]

Getting up early never killed anyone
But why take a chance? LOL

Even tho my day started out chilly and windy, I'm a real early riser anyway not just going to lay there lol. Gave me plenty of time to explore depending on what city I was in,update my Facebook group on my progress, go to the market ect... just a personal preference from when I was in the military I'd rather be out the door a bit chilly and windy then after the sun is out making things hot. I would walk a faster pace early in the a.m before the sun was out, I noticed I did most of my km while it was still cool most days I was done before the albuges were even open and had to judge to push on or wait depending what was open being it was March and most places are not open. One day I had to walk 34 km until I found something open during one streach

 

[Anniesantiago]

Hallelujah!

 

[Ian Afloat]

Start cold, start bold!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Getting up early never killed anyone
But why take a chance? LOL

On the C. it just might. I would be careful with those fellow albergue mates, you never know.

 

[MichaelC]

So if we sleep late (relatively) we'll miss the crowds people keep talking about? This is the best news I've read all month!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

So if we sleep late, we'll miss the crowds people keep talking about?

The crowds don't jam the path; they jam the accommodations. If you start late, you will aggravate the difficulty of finding a bed. Since pilgrims start different places at different times and walk at different speeds, the crowds don't go away. They may simply catch up with you.

 

[HedaP]

Getting up early never killed anyone
But why take a chance? LOL

Thank you for a really good laugh.

 

[camino-david]

On several occasions hospitaleros/owners of albergues have complained to me that they are always full in spring and autumn, but July is always quiet, presumably because pilgrims have heard that July is too hot for walking, so it's going to be July for me next time as I like hot weather.

 

[Kanga]

I enjoyed our June/July camino. And a great time to be away from home @camino-david!

 

[Mckarash]

I just spent 7 days walking from St Jean to Logrono from the 12th July. Roncesvalles was barely half full, (they have reduced the beds to 187 but strictly pilgrims only, no tourists!) Only 10 people turned up for the pilgrim meal. I met no-one and walked alone between Zubiri and Estella and i had an empty albergue in Cizor Minor to myself. About 10 solo walkers gathered in Sansol and were all glad of the company!

 

[JulieandPeter]

Hi Jersey, You were in Astorga yesterday, so soon you will be visiting Cruz de Ferro, a beautiful place to spend some time and reflect. There are picnic tables up there and it is a wonderful place for a picnic so I just wanted to recommend bringing some bites to eat (there isn't any place to get food between Foncebadon and Acebo including Cruz de Ferro). Buen Camino!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I help to run albergues in Castrojeriz (on the Frances) and in Grado, Asturias (on the Primitivo). Last year, and this year up to now, there have been MUCH fewer pilgrims on the central Frances in mid-summer. It seems everyone's taking the bus from Burgos to Leon or Astorga or Ponferrada, and re-commencing there. (Thus skipping over the very best part of the camino, IMHO... but who am I to tell someone how to spend his vacation?)

Also interesting: the albergue in Grado, Asturias, is filled to the brim and overflowing every night! It looks like many who once crowded the Frances are now seeking other trails to walk.

 

[Jersey]

Even tho my day started out chilly and windy, I'm a real early riser anyway not just going to lay there lol. Gave me plenty of time to explore depending on what city I was in,update my Facebook group on my progress, go to the market ect... just a personal preference from when I was in the military I'd rather be out the door a bit chilly and windy then after the sun is out making things hot. I would walk a faster pace early in the a.m before the sun was out, I noticed I did most of my km while it was still cool most days I was done before the albuges were even open and had to judge to push on or wait depending what was open being it was March and most places are not open. One day I had to walk 34 km until I found something open during one streach

I have been getting up around 8 but remember that's 2am east coast USA time. I was also in the military
Didn't like getting up early then either lol
I also worked night & early morning shifts for 30 years so I can adapt. For now I'm going to play it by ear. Get up when I wake up lol

 

[trecile]

I have been getting up around 8 but remember that's 2am east coast USA time. I was also in the military
Didn't like getting up early then either lol
I also worked night & early morning shifts for 30 years so I can adapt. For now I'm going to play it by ear. Get up when I wake up lol

Lots of albergues kick you out by 8, so it would be hard to sleep in late.

 

[Ian Afloat]

What I have noticed over these first 4 days from SJ to Cirauqui is the total absence of Americans. Are there any or am I just riding an American free wave?

 

[Bradypus]

What I have noticed over these first 4 days from SJ to Cirauqui is the total absence of Americans. Are there any or am I just riding an American free wave?

Plenty of Americans around in September and October last year. Your question led me to look at last summer's statistics from the Pilgrim Office. In July 2016 12% of Compostelas issued to foreign pilgrims were given to people from the USA but that dropped to 4% in August. Perhaps this is the off-season for Americans?

 

[Jersey]

Lots of albergues kick you out by 8, so it would be hard to sleep in late.

I'm treating myself to private rooms. I'll be in country another five weeks staying with friends so it's really an inexpensive trip for me. Got a great place tonight in Riego de Ambros for 30€

 

[Jersey]

What I have noticed over these first 4 days from SJ to Cirauqui is the total absence of Americans. Are there any or am I just riding an American free wave?

We Americans kinda like the beach in the summer. The main reason why my wife is joining me here in Spain in a few weeks is we will be spending the rest of the summer in Valencia & Cangas on the beach.

 

[trecile]

I'm treating myself to private rooms. I'll be in country another five weeks staying with friends so it's really an inexpensive trip for me. Got a great place tonight in Riego de Ambros for 30€

I noticed that too, but suddenly, I'm meeting a lot more. At first I met a lot of Canadians and Irish. Now I've got quite a mixed group at the albergue.

 

[Ian Afloat]

Well last night in Cirauqui there were about 15 pilgrim...maybe less than half full? 2 years ago it was standing room only.

 

[JabbaPapa]

What I have noticed over these first 4 days from SJ to Cirauqui is the total absence of Americans. Are there any or am I just riding an American free wave?

In one sense the suggestion by someday that interest in the Camino wanes is true -- when the "Camino craze" grabs people of a certain nationality, there tends to be a wave of people from that country lasting several years, as many of those whose interest is piqued will get along into Spain simultaneously. There have been waves of French, Italians, and Germans, and now Americans.

As a local, national interest in the Camino can fade over time, as those interested in the Camino will end up as already having done it, nevertheless each new wave still incrementally increases the underlying basic numbers, as each nation provides new generations of pilgrims to follow where their elders have been before them (plus of course all of us repeat offenders ) -- but it is natural for the % of French, % of Italians, % of Germans, and % of Americans and so on to drop after a time to more of a generational baseline.

Perhaps the initial wave of the American influx of those inspired by The Way is finally coming to an end, and the current numbers may also be reflecting a more typical drop in numbers after a Holy Year, as was the 2016 Jubilee Year, than was visible at the height of that wave ? The existence of such huge numbers of pilgrims in years that were not Holy Years during the 2010s has been a fairly unusual phenomenon.

 

[nycwalking]

I have been getting up around 8 but remember that's 2am east coast USA time. I was also in the military
Didn't like getting up early then either lol
I also worked night & early morning shifts for 30 years so I can adapt. For now I'm going to play it by ear. Get up when I wake up lol

"Americans are always late" ... says hospitalera in Roncesvalles in movie.
Even as a hospitalera I struggled to awaken in time to gently push pilgrims out the door by 8am. Sleep on Jersey, sleep on.
Buen camino.

 

[Jersey]

"Americans are always late" ... says hospitalera in Roncesvalles in movie.
Even as a hospitalera I struggled to awaken in time to gently push pilgrims out the door by 8am. Sleep on Jersey, sleep on.
Buen camino.

25 years same job. Retired 4 years ago. Not late once. Not once.
Not to say I didn't enjoy calling in sick lol

 

[pip2136]

I am currently walking the Camino de Santiago and was in Portomarin las night and they were turning pilgrims away as they were full . Mostly pilgrims I find start early around 6.00am. Seems to be lots of pilgrims around on the paths where I am at present.

 

[Nadia M]

Are you the S. Yates that wrote the Pilgrim tips book? If you are thank you excellent book. God willing I'm starting my Camino Frances on Sept 24th of this year.

I plan to start from SJPP on Sept 24 also, but overnighting in Orisson.

 

[Ian Afloat]

Sitting in VM de Monjardin. Got here at 1400 From Cirauqui. It was getting unbearably hot then...now 3.5 hours later it is scorching...and yet there are still pilgrim's arriving, presumably from PLR and further back. They must be crackers!

 

[Ian Afloat]

The albergue where i am staying tonight is complete...28 pilgrims

 

[Jersey]

Sitting in VM de Monjardin. Got here at 1400 From Cirauqui. It was getting unbearably hot then...now 3.5 hours later it is scorching...and yet there are still pilgrim's arriving, presumably from PLR and further back. They must be crackers!

A lot also depends on where you come from.
I'm in Molinaseca today. 30 c but to me it feels like 24.
I'm guessing the North of Spain doesn't get the brutal humidity that we get in the NYC area summers?

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I'm guessing the North of Spain doesn't get the brutal humidity that we get in the NYC

Sometimes it does! It can be worse in Galicia, where you will be after the next mountains.

 

[SueWhaits]

I walked Leon to Mazarife Monday & on to Hospital de Orbigo this morning.
I came across no more than 10 pilgrims walking.
And maybe 20-25 biking.
Maybe my late starts? Monday 9am today 8am

I walked from SJPdP (26th April) to Santiago (3rd June) and it was sooooo busy. Landed up using onlypilgrims.com to secure a bed most days...

 

[Ian Afloat]

Well you walk for 7 days without seeing a single onecand then 3 turn up at once...Americans that is...in Ventosa.

 

[nycwalking]

A lot also depends on where you come from.
I'm in Molinaseca today. 30 c but to me it feels like 24.
I'm guessing the North of Spain doesn't get the brutal humidity that we get in the NYC area summers?

Spain's humidity is a cross between NYC's sauna like humidity and Los Angeles's usually dry heat. This summer is humid: maybe I brought with move back to L.A.
Buen camino Jersey. Keep postimg

 

[Jersey]

I walked from SJPdP (26th April) to Santiago (3rd June) and it was sooooo busy. Landed up using onlypilgrims.com to secure a bed most days...

Well you walk for 7 days without seeing a single onecand then 3 turn up at once...Americans that is...in Ventosa.

there goes the neighborhood ha ha

 

[Jersey]

Spain's humidity is a cross between NYC's sauna like humidity and Los Angeles's usually dry heat. This summer is humid: maybe I brought with move back to L.A.
Buen camino Jersey. Keep postimg

It's not just the humidity in NYC. It's also the amount of exhaust from the cars & trucks. I come home from a cold December day from New York and still feel the need to hop in the shower.
Mind you this is coming from someone who loves the City.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Spain's humidity is a cross between NYC's sauna like humidity and Los Angeles's usually dry heat. This summer is humid: maybe I brought with move back to L.A.
Buen camino Jersey. Keep postimg

The Sun is brutal this year -- I live near the Rome > Santiago Camino near the Italian border, at the same latitude more or less as the Francès, and I got hit by bad sunstroke on Saturday from just an hour in the Sun.

Humidity up at the higher Camino altitudes is pretty rare, but I guess you're not up there yet ...

 

[SYates]

The Sun is brutal this year -- I live near the Rome > Santiago Camino near the Italian border, at the same latitude more or less as the Francès, and I got hit by bad sunstroke on Saturday from just an hour in the Sun.

Humidity up at the higher Camino altitudes is pretty rare, but I guess you're not up there yet ...

Ventimiglia? Take care and speedy recovery! BC SY

 

[JabbaPapa]

Ventimiglia? Take care and speedy recovery! BC SY

French side ... and thanks !!

 

[hotelmedicis]

I walked from SJPdP (26th April) to Santiago (3rd June) and it was sooooo busy. Landed up using onlypilgrims.com to secure a bed most days...

I left SJPP on 26 April as well (Santiago 23 May) and I had the same impression: it was so crowded! Roncesvalles, which has 187 beds I think, was full, and ended up sending people down to Burguete, which in turn became full and one lady at least had to continue on to yet another town to find accommodation! Between Pamplona and Punete it was very crowded and then after Saria all pandemonium broke loose. Having said that, I always found a bed and I never made any reservations.