When to walk?

[rossfamcan]

We are intending to walk the Le Puy route in 2011 and are starting to think about when best to walk. We are thinking of starting in Le Puy in either very early June or early July and walking to St Jean Pied de Port, having completed the St Jean to Santiago part of the Camino in 2009.
We would love some advice regarding how busy this part of the walk is in June/July/August, is it necessary to plan in absolute detail and book accommodation well ahead? Are there any parts of the walk in which accommodation is scarce? What should we generally budget on a daily basis for accommodation, we have heard that accommodation and food in France are more expensive than we experienced when walking in Spain.
Many thanks.

 

[robertt]

Hi rossfamcan

I'd love to be on the Aubrac in high summer, but overall the heat would be a bit much for me on the Le Puy route. I've just travelled it very slowly starting late March, and it was occasionally hard to find accommodation where I wanted it. Probably summer would be harder again, although I noticed that shortages were due to the French doing weekend and holiday excursions, which they tend not to do in the hottest months. Overall, I'm guessing there'll be a lot more competition from long-haul pilgrims in summer. Next time I'm taking a tarp-tent, just to add an extra option, and because I can't sleep through the snoring in dormitories.

Of course, I'm just guessing about summer conditions. Whatever the difficulties, the Le Puy route is a marvel, and you're going to love it.

Cheers from Dondingalong

Rob

 

[gittiharre]

HI, I started from Le Puy en Velay around August 20 last year and it was perfect. Warm and mellow all the way to St Jean where I arrived at the end of September, 39 days altogether. In part it was quite hot, especially in the Causses area, temp in the 30's, but it had been in the 40's in July. I certainly never suffered from heat or cold and only had a couple of days of rain. At first there were plump delicious peaches at the market in Le Puy and once on the way there were lots of ripe figs on the trees and plums and grapes, a veritable feast!
I booked the first 7 nights in advance and then a couple of days in advance. Le Puy had a festival on and I had booked 3 months earlier and got one of the last beds in the place. Gitti

 

[jl]

hi - another Aussie replying! I walked from le Puy in 2007 and began walking on the 4th August. It was hot leaving le Huy as it is all up hill out of town, and it was quite hot for the first day or so. Once on the road though it was pleasant walking on the Aubrac plataeu. From about the region of Conques / Figeac the altitude decreases and the temperature steadily increases! However - it was not unbearable and no-where near a mid summers day in Adelaide! An early start and therefore an early finish solves the walking in the heat problem (there were some days when it was about 36 degrees by mid afternoon.)

I booked the first 2 nights accomodation in Le Puy prior to leaving to get over jet lag (hotel St Jacques) and while in le Puy the tourist offece booked the next 2 nights for me. From there I would stop at the tourist office and book one or two days ahead - this meant that if I heard of a great place to stay while on the path I had the option of using it. The French take their holidays in August and so the Le Puy path has a lot of "locals" out walking for a few days. This means you will be sharing accomodation with hikers / walkers as well as pilgrims. Indeed I would say that pilgrims tend to be in the minority at that time of the year as most of the gites are for everyone. If a gite was full the Tourist office would keep ringing until they found somwhere - amazingly helpful!

Cheers, Janet

 

[Kitsambler]

Part of the answer depends on how many "we" are. Having read this forum for nearly two years, I mistakenly assumed that the "Booking one-two days in advance" that the solo walkers were reporting would also apply to larger groups. This is not the case. For our group of 5, even booking three months in advance proved to be a challenge, as some establishments were already full, some wanted advance deposits in cash or check (very difficult to arrange from North America) rather than credit card, or a local (to France) cell phone number. In the end, we did succeed in making arrangements (thanks to one of us being a former French instructor and having friends in Paris). The lesson learned was - the more in the group, the more time in advance to make arrangements.

 

[robmc]

hi

I walked from le puy to Moissac this May and had a great expierence. The biggest problem was accommodation. Eventually I managed something every night. However I was walking alone and often got the last bed. More than one would have been extra difficult.

I am hoping to continue from Moissac in September 2011. Is September as crowded as May in the gites?

Of course ultimately you must accept whatever the problems the Camino will provide.

rob mcilwaine
Australia

 

[gittiharre]

Hi I walked in September 2009 and I did book a few days ahead, I got accommodation without problems that way, there were just one or two places where I could not get my first option or had to walk a little further. Cheers, Gitti

 

[Kitsambler]

As to when to plan your walk, here's the pattern that Ram at Gite Ultreia in Moissac reports:
Pilgrims start to increase in late April. May is the busiest month (all those long-weekend French holidays), and the busyness extends into first week of June. Remainder of June is almost nil (this reinforces word from others that June is a good month to walk, no crowds). July and August are very warm in the south of France, temps over 30 C, so few walkers. In September, when the children are back in school and no longer need minders, the grandparents are once more at liberty and so they hit the road en masse. September is a very crowded month (but lovely walking, just book well in advance). By the last week in September, the crowds thin out, but the weather is still generally quite nice. But it can rain and thunderstorm during any week.

 

[Thornley]

We started on the 10th June and had very few problems in getting the accommodation of our choice , whether it be communal or private.

Got a bit of rain on the aubrac but was lovely from then on.
Just start early, take your time, smell the roses and avoid the sun in the afternoon.

A beautiful route .
Rom in Moissac would know and you could not get a warmer host,
David

 

[Anniesantiago]

Are there ample camping spots along this route?

 

[robertt]

You know, Annie, I saw many tempting camping spots on the Le Puy route which, at least in spring, would have been discreet, if not official. I really missed the freedom of the camping option because I didn't have the gear. Next time, I'll have a silnylon tarp and a couple of extra things with me.

Needless to say, if the camping spot is not official, I'd go well of the track and keep the site spotless. There are also plenty of municipal and private camping areas where showers and toilets are available. The relatively crime-free nature of the route makes camping easier.

I've subtracted about three excess kilos (books, clothes etc) and added maybe only one kilo in camping gear. The Bear Paw tarp and insect bivvy are very light and compressible. Haven't tested them out yet, and I'm wary of all "waterproof" claims, but I should be able to get the odd pleasant night en plein air.