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What was the least favorite section of the Le Puy route?

grayland

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Yes
Unlike the CF and the VdlP routes, I have not really heard any complaints about the Le Puy.

I did see a post on another forum that asked which section you would skip if you didn't have time to complete but wanted to start in Le Puy and end up in SJPP. There did not seem to be any replies as the forum was not very active. It did seem interesting but without any reply.
 
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This is a real tricky question as we did not have any bad portions during our thirty days in April-May 2008. The LePuy to Conques would be unmissable. Although there were bad days (long, wet, etc.) the rest of the way to Moissac was grand. The might be a few etapes in between there and St Jean Pied du Port, but nothing particularly misable comes through. :?:

Sorry :arrow:
 
When I look back over the route I don't see anything much I would like to miss on the Le Puy route. The landscapes were varied, and there were so many interesting little towns and villages along the way. The only town I didn't enjoy at all was Nogaro, and the landscapes in that area were probably the least interesting. If I 'had' to skip somewhere it would perhaps be from Montréal du Gers to Aire-sur-l'Adour, which would skip Nogaro and some flatter sections around there. It wouldn't actually save too much walking, and I am not sure if public transport would be available for this 'skipping' very easily either.
Maybe I wouldn't feel so bad about Nogaro if I had just walked through and managed to stay in the L'Arbladoise gîte which is just a few kms further on, and highly recommended- but it was booked out when I was in the area. (And the gîte I stayed in in Nogaro was distinctly 'odd'.)
Margaret
 
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You are asking what is the worst part of the very best segment of the entire Chemin/Camino network. The town of Nogoro is a bit creepy, but the places just past it are wonderful. Don't miss any of it, miss work or something else.
 
For me, the Le Puy route is so rich in variation, even for a slow walker doing small stages, that this is a hard question to answer. Some people don't like the approach to Moissac through the urbanisation, but I enjoy having some traffic and factories to include in the experience. Others don't like the maize fields and black soil flats of the Landes, before one gets closer to the Bearn - but I thought a bit of level walking and monotony was a pleasant break from what had come before.

Some people don't like walking along the canal after Moissac. That's the kind of loaf I totally love!

Nope, I like it all. Even, er, Nogaro, which is a bit kinky, I know.
 
I walked from Le Puy to Santiago starting in April 2010 and loved it all, but if I was to put my grumpy old man hat on.
more road walking than you would think
if your not walking up a big hill at the end of the day,your doing first thing in a morning.
more expensive than other Camino's ( a lot more)
the French like the English don't speak anything other then there own Language.
the shops are shut on Sundays and Mondays and quite often on a Saturday as well.
way marking confusing easy to get lost
very few people walk all the way to SJPP but the gites are nearly always full or reserved by miam do do,s carrying people who don't carry packs,you don't see them on the way but they have nice shiny cars parked outside the Gites!!!
a lot of French farmers and young locals drive quad bikes up and down and up and down the dirt paths turning them into deep rutted muddy quadmires.
the first 10/12 days to Conques is the Chemin the rest is just a gentle rolling pastoral landscape that goes on and on and on, very peaceful and quite ya------------wn.
I would not have missed 1km of it-well maybe the 9km detour I took outside of Cahors (just after the bridge)
Ian
 
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sagalouts said:
a lot of French farmers and young locals drive quad bikes up and down and up and down the dirt paths turning them into deep rutted muddy quadmires.

Ian

I heard Germans, who are not allowed to tear up dirt paths in their own country come to France, where the enforcement is more laissez-faire. "Ooooh, and this wonderful GR 65 is well marked and goes forever". Akkk!
 
The negatives were all about me, so I consider the route flawless!!

That said, there are these factors to consider (some repeat, or are variations, on the comments of others):
France closes on Sunday and sometimes Monday. You can get caught without provisions.
Villages are being abandoned as people move to the city. Local shops have closed permanently.
The French are great walkers, so the routes intentionally go to the vistas, avoiding the shortest and flattest distance between two points. The route will go from your thumb to your forefinger by way of your elbow and over the highest hill in sight.
The infrastructure is lagging behind the growth in pilgrims, so calling ahead can be essential.
Towns are built on water (a river or stream) or the top of a hill. You are guaranteed a climb to get there and/or to leave.
Churches and chapels are open rather than locked, but if you find one locked, knock on a few doors around the village square. Someone will have the key and willingly let you into the church.
 
I quite enjoyed walking the Le Puy route over 27 days to SJPP in the spring of 2011. Although I would have to review my journal to find the specific stages the worst parts were the long sections where I spent most of the day walking on tarmac. There were a few day where I would estimate the more than 75% was tarmac and for the whole 750+ km I would estimate more than 50% was tarmac. I'm glad that I walked it........once!

Haloranch
 
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I walked from Le Puy - Finisterre late 2010 with my Dad and we rarely we grumbled about anything in France. Upon reflection we felt that the Le Puy - SJPP route is more consistent in it's beauty than the main Frances route in Spain (which is beautiful too!)

The first 2-3 weeks are strenuous, so preperation walks will help for those hills but they are the quickest way to whip you into the shape and the views are stunning. A lot of people talk about the descent into Conques being arduous but trust me the climb out the next day is the real challenge!

If you're considering walking Le Puy to SJPP i think it's well worth doing the whole thing, and while you have some road walking the overall French countryside is too beautiful to miss and the trail was much less populated than expected. This meant a lot less rubbish too which was nice! And you don't have those long, hard slogs in/out of towns that can be really ugly (think walking into/out of Leon or Burgos).

I'd do it all again given the chance :D
 
I went in autumn 2010 and Some parts after Condom when you walked through corn acres and sunflower acres all day bored me out. But this spring I will walk some days during the same area to see it in springtime. Guess it will be much nicer then, so after that i think I will love the whole way.
Randi
 
ranthr said:
I went in autumn 2010 and Some parts after Condom when you walked through corn acres and sunflower acres all day bored me out.Randi
Randi, this made me laugh, because I walked in spring when seedlings for sunflowers etc had only recently been planted. I was wishing that I could see fields and fields of sunflowers!!!!! I quite liked seeing the seedlings mind you, but I would have loved to have seen the flowers too!
Margaret
 

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Margaret.
There were no flowers,all the acres were withered, dead. I go back this spring to see the flowers or if May is too early, at least some green plants. In September I had day after day walking between dead plants.
By the way I wrote 2010, it was in 2009.
Randi
 
Oh I see- dead plants are not what I was imagining! This photo was taken May 15th, between Condom and Montreal du Gers. So mid-May, you might see some small plants like this.
Margaret
 
You mean something like this ... From Sept 2011.
 

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Hi all
I had long wanted to see the sunflowers in bloom. I saw them brown and dead on their stalks in Spain one September. Then I saw them as small green plants in France in May. Finally last year we got the see them just coming into bloom around June 12th/16th for a few days after Condom. They were beautiful, but I reckon the best display would be towards the end of June beginning of July.

Regarding the original question on this post, I just adored all of the Le Puy route and would not willingly skip any of it. ( I have not done the normal route between Figeac and Cahors so cannot speak for that part) However if I absolutely had to skip a bit I think it would be the piece between Condom or Montreal and Aire sur L'Adour (in spite of the sunflowers) as it was at times not very exciting. Once you come in sight of the Pyrenees it is wonderful.

Anna
 
Hello,

I know I am responding/inquiring to an old post. I am from New Mexico in the U.S. I have done the via Frances in Oct 2010, and the Portugese last year - Finnistera Muxia. I have about 10 days to do the route somewhere along Le Puy to Pamplona. I don't know a fig of French, but feel fairly comfortable along the Camino. From reading the existing posts I would gather that the demi pension gites are desirable. Would anyone have a comment regarding the build up of places along the route, and whether there would be a shortage during late May. Thank you Kindly fellow Pilgrims. Billy Mac
 
irishpilgrim said:
Hi all
I had long wanted to see the sunflowers in bloom. I saw them brown and dead on their stalks in Spain one September. Then I saw them as small green plants in France in May. Finally last year we got the see them just coming into bloom around June 12th/16th for a few days after Condom. They were beautiful, but I reckon the best display would be towards the end of June beginning of July.

Regarding the original question on this post, I just adored all of the Le Puy route and would not willingly skip any of it. ( I have not done the normal route between Figeac and Cahors so cannot speak for that part) However if I absolutely had to skip a bit I think it would be the piece between Condom or Montreal and Aire sur L'Adour (in spite of the sunflowers) as it was at times not very exciting. Once you come in sight of the Pyrenees it is wonderful.

Anna
Don't understand how you can say that about Condom and Aire sur L'Adour - we settled and live here and I start my Camino on this section in 10 days.....we have lovely villages (Larressingle?Montreal?) and stunning countryside. Just done a 2 hour training walk on the Chemin in preparation. Don't be discouraged - Gascony is wonderful!
 
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billlymac said:
I don't know a fig of French...
Now is a good time to learn some, at least so you can get comfortable with the basic phrases of politeness. It will make your trip eversomuch more enjoyable.

billlymac said:
regarding the build up of places along the route, and whether there would be a shortage during late May.
Late May is not a popular time for walking among the French, as they walk in early May, take vacation in July and August, and the retirees walk in September. So late May and early June are a good time on the Le Puy route. The smaller towns have fewer, and smaller, establishments. Find a copy of Miam Miam Dodo (the lodging guide), and call to make reservations a day or two in advance (this conversation is in French) or send an email (in French) although a few places still do not have email. Since it is not a crowded time to walk, you might take your chances without booking ahead, and see how that works out.
 
Worst day is the walk out of Conques, great initially and then just road walking and suburbia..not nice. Overall we loved the whole route.
 
To reply to Lazaret,
Oh dear! I certainly did not mean to cause upset. I did state that I loved every bit of the Chemin Du Puy and would not willingly miss any part of it. I was just trying hard to answer the original poster's very difficult question. I am totally jealous of you living in such a beautiful area,Gascony is beautiful, and I would willingly go back tomorrow to walk any part of the route, if only the fates would allow. I live in hope that I will get back to do all of the Le Puy route again sometime in the future. Enjoy your training and have a wonderful camino

Anna
 
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With nearly daily rain there were muddy stretches everywhere that were like walking on ice. It was much dryer the first time I walked the route, so slick mud seemed like isolated instances.

Temporary conditions do not make for good criteria for favorites, so it all is my favorite, but we walked on a lot of roads to avoid boue. It is a record wet May for France!!!
 
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