What is more beautiful, Muxía - Fisterra or the other way around?

[RafaelQ]

Hello all,

My name is Rafael, this is my first post here. I'm looking for information regarding the Muxía - Fisterra way. My wife and I are going to spend 4 days in Santiago de Compostela and we want to take the 28 - 30km walk between Fisterra and Muxía. The plan is to take the first bus in SdC to either Muxía or Fisterra and walk all the way to the other edge, with maybe spending the night at Lires if we get too tired and/or just want to take our time.

We are not hikers or particularly athletic, but I think we can manage doing just this ~30km bit (with the plan B of splitting it in two 15km walks). My question is whether we should start on Muxía or Fisterra, and the reasons to do it either way. Which way is more beautiful? Which way is there more coast/sea to see? Is any way particularly harder/steeper or are they about the same? I'm unsure which town is "higher" and would be nice to avoid the hardest path if one is harder, but we are looking primarily for the best experience possible, even if we have to break it in two walks and spend the night in Lires (which we are interested in doing simply because it is probably going to be great).

So, with stopping in Lires a must (even if don't spend the night) and an interest to see more coast/beach, what would you recommend? Personally I would like to finish in Fisterra because it just feels more like the end, but I see that people tend to finish in Muxía more often, and that Muxía is a better town to end in/spend more time in.

Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Rafael

 

[Nandy61]

they are very different towns. Finisterre has a more hippie vibe to it. The town has way more options for staying (I like Cabo do Vila) and eating (restaurants) Its quite a hike up to the lighthouse, but the sunsets are worth it (or the €5 taxi!) . It also has a incredible beach on the north side. Muxia is a smaller town, and for me, has a bit more of a Christian vibe to it. The gorgeous Nuestra Señora de la Barca church sits right on the rocks of the Costa del Morte (coast of death) Its very dramatic. It is also MUCH easier to walk to for the same magnificent sunset, maybe ten minutes, tops. There is another church you will pass on your way that has daily evening masses, I believe. Albergue Bela Muxia is (IMO) the only place to stay. Incredible spirit and a stunning design. Angel and Cecilia are delights. I think the biggest reason people do a clockwise circuit (Finisterre-Muxia-SDC) is because there's a cheap, direct €6 bus back to Santiago. The bus out to Finisterre is very circuitous. I took it, got off in Cee and walked the rest of the way to Finisterre. The next day I shared a taxi to Lires (did not go to the beach) and walked from there to Muxia. (there's a GORGEOUS beach on your way there too) Good luck with your planning!

 

[wayfarer]

Welcome Rafael, short answer, for me finishing in Muxia was best. Didn't care so much for Finisterre, too commercial, but I loved Muxia, it felt a much more natural and peaceful finish.
Whatever you decide have a Buen Camino.

 

[Mike Savage]

I too enjoyed Muxia and did not care much for Finisterre.

 

[Priscilla NC]

There's more than one albergue in Muxia -- I stayed in Albergue Arribada, which was quite lovely.

My brother and I walked from SdC to Muxia, then to Finisterre. Our reasoning was, we were going to return to SdC on a Sunday, and the bus options were much better from Finisterre.

I would walk this way again. We both loved Muxia more because of its peaceful ambience. It's a smaller village. As we walked from Muxia to Finisterre (it's the same route whichever direction you go), we stayed in Lires. I would also do that again.

I think there's only one albergue in Lires -- it's fine, and there's a good restaurant on the coast (about a 15 minute walk from the village). We had a great afternoon there.

Hope this helps! It's a lovely walk.

 

[AlanSykes]

I liked both towns. I went from Santiago to Muxía and then on to Fisterra. For me it was quite special suddenly seeing the ocean for the first time since Alicante in 1100km near Muxía, having been nearly 2 months without seeing salt water (I can see the Irish Sea from my farm most days if it's clear).

The fresh fish in the bars in both places was delicious. Sunset from the beach at Fisterra was worth it as well (and also from Muxía). I stayed in the very comfortable albergue Bella Muxía, and caught the late bus back to Santiago from Fisterra as I didn't much like the look of the albergue there.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hello all,

My name is Rafael, this is my first post here. I'm looking for information regarding the Muxía - Fisterra way. My wife and I are going to spend 4 days in Santiago de Compostela and we want to take the 28 - 30km walk between Fisterra and Muxía. The plan is to take the first bus in SdC to either Muxía or Fisterra and walk all the way to the other edge, with maybe spending the night at Lires if we get too tired and/or just want to take our time.

We are not hikers or particularly athletic, but I think we can manage doing just this ~30km bit (with the plan B of splitting it in two 15km walks). My question is whether we should start on Muxía or Fisterra, and the reasons to do it either way. Which way is more beautiful? Which way is there more coast/sea to see? Is any way particularly harder/steeper or are they about the same? I'm unsure which town is "higher" and would be nice to avoid the hardest path if one is harder, but we are looking primarily for the best experience possible, even if we have to break it in two walks and spend the night in Lires (which we are interested in doing simply because it is probably going to be great).

So, with stopping in Lires a must (even if don't spend the night) and an interest to see more coast/beach, what would you recommend? Personally I would like to finish in Fisterra because it just feels more like the end, but I see that people tend to finish in Muxía more often, and that Muxía is a better town to end in/spend more time in.

Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Rafael

Hi, Rafael, Welcome to the forum.

You probably already know this (but it's not entirely clear from your post), but the route is the same in either direction. One thing that often surprises people is how little of it is on the coast. Between Muxia and Finisterre, the only coastal part is the km or two close to Muxia where you hug a beach for a while. The rest is through rural Galicia, small hamlets, eucalyptus trees, etc. In Lires, you can take a detour down to the beach for a km or two. I have done that but never met anyone else who did. There is a coastal option, but it is not the Camino, it's a different route. Some information here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...tal-route-between-muxia-and-finisterre.45251/

As between Finisterre and Muxia for end point, I would say many more people go to Finisterre than Muxia, though the trend is probably in Muxia's favor.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I like Muxia better.
I think it's more beautiful.

 

[lunna]

Muxia for the reason stated by wayfarer.

 

[RafaelQ]

Hi again!

Thanks for your kind and quick replies

I have a few more questions:

Our trip is from June 15th to July 5th. We are going to stay a bit with family in Portugal (a week or 8-9 days) by either the beginning or the end, and the rest in Spain, with those few days near SDC to do the Fisterre - Muxía way like I mentioned here. I reckon that the sun will set quite late in those days, right? like 21h30-22h? Is there a way to come back to SDC from either town *after* we see the sunset or will we have to stay overnight? That might be definitive on what town we end up choosing to finish our walk. Personally I'm really torn because on one hand Fisterre feels more like "the finish", has more options to eat and buses to return, but Muxía from your comments is quieter/more cosy/more beautiful, which is also very nice.

Thanks for clarifying that the route is the same both ways, I have read a few comments around this forum that confused me into thinking there were small differences between them. Also is there a steep climb in the way that maybe would be better to be done first rather than later? Near fisterre the path goes up and down a hill, right? I'm not entirely sure of that either.

Thanks again and sorry if I asked a few repeated questions, I did browse here before making the thread but, like I said, some mixed answers and reports got me a bit confused.

Cheers!
Raf

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Fisterra is imo a tourist trap. Muxia has soul and mystery.

This being said, there are more daily buses from Fisterra to Santiago.

Muxia has many albergues. Bella Muxia has been mentioned, and while it is modern and clean, it is open to any tourist, and that makes for little sleep as partiers will crawl in at all hours.

A de Lolo is a modern small hotel that may work for you, bit have a look at all the different options on Ersoki or Gronze. Lots of other restaurants, including the Prestige for percebes, a simple place that feels a bit like am old boys' tavern.

For bus schedules for both just google.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Raf, The differences you have read about have to do with whether you go from Santiago to Finisterre and then to Muxia or Santiago to Muxia first and then to Finisterre. But the stretch between Finisterre and Muxia is identical. There is not much in the way of elevation gain in either direction, so that should not be a deciding factor. If you were walking from Santiago to Finisterre you would have a short but somewhat pronounced descent into Cee.

I remember sunsets well after 10 pm so you should check that out. Getting back to Santiago after sunset is likely to require a taxi.