wayfarer

[Lorin]

hello fellow Pilgrims, I walked the Frances in 2015, and this year in 2017 I am heading for El Norte. But, rather than walk the whole Norte, I'm plotting a route that takes in the "best of" El Norte and the "best of" Frances + the Muxia to Santiago trek for my last 100k into Santiago. I have a total of 27 days on the Camino, and I will be walking from June 1 - June 27.

My question to this Forum - 1) for those who have done El Norte, what are the Must See sections, sights and stopovers? 2) for those who have done the French Way, what are your Must See's (I have my favourites, and I'm looking for confirmation and challenges to my top picks, which I will share).

Looking forward to hearing about your ideas. Gracias!

 

[jsalt]

Hi, the best stopovers on the Norte were “menu del dias” at lunchtime with my camino buddies, and a few cool bars in the evenings for “tapas y vino” with other albergue buddies.
The best part of the Francés is crossing the meseta – alone.
Jill

 

[notion900]

Cherry picking the best bits isn't really the spirit of pilgrimage.

 

[Sarah Olson]

Cherry picking the best bits isn't really the spirit of pilgrimage.

It reminds me of reading REI's description of their camino adventure, they see the "best parts" of the trails. I guess it's the Cliff's Notes version of traveling...

 

[Deleted member 43985]

Cherry picking the best bits isn't really the spirit of pilgrimage.

Why? Is it not reasonable a 1,000 years ago that Pilgrims took the best or most pleasant route to Santiago? I have trouble believing that Pilgrims then or now purposely took routes that were unfavourable if better options existed.

 

[notion900]

Why? Is it not reasonable a 1,000 years ago that Pilgrims took the best or most pleasant route to Santiago? I have trouble believing that Pilgrims then or now purposely took routes that were unfavourable if better options existed.

Yes, but Best Ofs, Must Sees and Top Picks are absolutely the language of tourism. Sorry @Lorin I can't help you with that.

 

[jprogers]

For the Norte I agree with jsalt...the chance to have a menu del dia with camino buddies (not necessarily a pilgrim meal) is a chance to immerse yourself in Spain. The Norte is small enough yet big enough to have camino buddies. So I suggest choose a start point any point and just walk the days that you have allotted...Its all good. Most of the walk is near the coast. Other blogs will tell you that the first part is quite tough.Cheers Jill

 

[cherrys]

Hi - I've done the Frances twice, once alone and once with my husband. The second time we took a couple of different variations because I had heard they were worth doing. In four weeks we leave for the Norte, then probably over to the Primativo. I have been scouring this forum, as I have in the past, for recommended albergues, restaurants, churches and other sites of interest, because I greatly value the insight of other members who have walked before me. I guess I feel that we all use the forum to help us find what will be the most meaningful camino for us, relying on other members' suggestions, blogs and pictures, let alone equipment choices! So I guess I don't see why wanting to see and experience the nicest parts ( and we all know we will experience the opposite at times) should make one a tourist. If I wanted to be a tourist in Spain (which I would enjoy), I would not walk for days on end, with a pack, listening to people snore, etc., but instead, I choose for the third time to put up with all of that because of the insights I've been privileged to gain from the camino, the friends we've made, and the great places we've seen - thanks in part to many suggestions from other forum members. Sorry, I don't usually go on like this - Cherry

 

[Camino Chrissy]

It reminds me of reading REI's description of their camino adventure, they see the "best parts" of the trails. I guess it's the Cliff's Notes version of traveling...

I understand what you are saying and agree that walking the whole way is best when possible. But if everyone ultimately walks their "own" Camino, what's the harm in Lorin's request for suggestions to help her have a positive experience on her terms?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I understand what you are saying and agree that walking the whole way is best when possible. But if everyone ultimately walks their "own" Camino, what's the harm in Lorin's request for suggestions to help her have a positive experience on her terms?

Notion900 is not saying walk the "whole way" but rather start somewhere and accept what lies head. And that is something everyone can do. A pilgrimage is not about siteseeing, it's about the process of getting to a destination. For this pilgrimage, it's about walking from point A to Santiago, in one outing or over many, and how walking affects the mind and the heart.

It is also not about onés appropriation of an ancient route to make it "my Camino" but about stepping in the footsteps millions of others have walked over almost 1000 years and sharing in that experience.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Notion900 is not saying walk the "whole way" but rather start somewhere and accept what lies head. And that is something everyone can do. A pilgrimage is not about siteseeing, it's about the process of getting to a destination. For this pilgrimage, it's about walking from point A to Santiago, in one outing or over many, and how walking affects the mind and the heart.

It is also not about onés appropriation of an ancient route to make it "my Camino" but about stepping in the footsteps millions of others have walked over almost 1000 years and sharing in that experience.

I totally get what you are saying. Your opinion is certainly valid and a great interpretation of what a pilgrimage is all about. But it seems Lorin is seeking a little different experience for herself... There has been a thread going on for a couple of weeks I think is called "Must see and dos". I don't see that as very much different than her request.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I totally get what you are saying. Your opinion is certainly valid and a great interpretation of what a pilgrimage is all about. But it seems Lorin is seeking a little different experience for herself... There has been a thread going on for a couple of weeks I think is called "Must see and dos". I don't see that as very much different than her request.

I had not looked at that thread but just have now. I suppose the difference is that the answers were about what not to miss vs what to avoid.

I find that there is very little one can "miss" on the Camino as we all basically walk along a very narrow path. Detours are something else, like Eunate, but again, it's an add on, not cherry picking to only see highlights.

Finally, you will notice that very few people participated in the Must Sees thread. Perhaps because making one's own discoveries is also part of the Camino vs finding the prettiest in?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I had not looked at that thread but just have now. I suppose the difference is that the answers were about what not to miss vs what to avoid.

I find that there is very little one can "miss" on the Camino as we all basically walk along a very narrow path. Detours are something else, like Eunate, but again, it's an add on, not cherry picking to only see highlights.

Finally, you will notice that very few people participated in the Must Sees thread. Perhaps because making one's own discoveries is also part of the Camino vs finding the prettiest in?

More good thoughts from you, Anemone, as I am aware you are passionate about the Caminos, as am I. I'm going to bow out of our conversation now, as I've already expressed my thoughts. I have respect for the position you take.

 

[Sarah Olson]

I understand what you are saying and agree that walking the whole way is best when possible. But if everyone ultimately walks their "own" Camino, what's the harm in Lorin's request for suggestions to help her have a positive experience on her terms?

If you think through what I said, Cliff's Notes are valid (do they still make them?) ways to get an overview of a story, but people who enjoy reading want the nuances that come with the pages of the book. Picking parts of the Camino because they are the "best", or not the "worst", is about like that...you will get an idea of what the Camino is like, but less than the full experience. IMHO.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

If you think through what I said, Cliff's Notes are valid (do they still make them?) ways to get an overview of a story, but people who enjoy reading want the nuances that come with the pages of the book. Picking parts of the Camino because they are the "best", or not the "worst", is about like that...you will get an idea of what the Camino is like, but less than the full experience. IMHO.

That's a great comparison and I agree that the full experience is best when possible, but she seemed to indicate only really wanting the Cliff notes this time around.

 

[Sarah Olson]

and that's fine! I never said otherwise!

 

[trecile]

Okay, the OP has already walked the Frances twice, so I'm going to assume that she knows what the Camino is all about. Nothing wrong with doing things a bit differently this time.

I'm planning on starting on the Frances in St Jean, then detouring onto the Salvador in Leon to Oviedo to the Primitivo. So I won't be walking a traditional route.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi Lorin,
In making your choices, you should probably take account of the transportation issues. Since you only have 27 days, you won't want to spend more time on buses or trains than needed. Also - you'll need to allow sufficient time at the 'end' for whichever version of the Santiago-Finisterre-Muxia circuit that you plan to walk. Breaking your Camino into three distinct sections could feel somewhat disjointed, but you probably know that already.

Perhaps walk from Irun or San Sebastián to Bilbao on the Camino del Norte (about 6 days) and then take a bus to Burgos? It's unlikely that you'll have enough days to walk all the way from Burgos to Santiago + Finisterre/Muxia, but it will be easy to 'skip' sections of the Camino Frances as you go along.
Alternatively, you could walk to Santander (about 2 weeks) and take a bus to Leon. Walk as far as you can before you need to skip ahead to a 'final 100km' section.

Although it's good to know your options in advance, I'd suggest that you keep an open mind about all of this. You might end up wanting to just stay on the Norte.

Buen Camino!

 

[Marigold Mama]

Cherry picking the best bits isn't really the spirit of pilgrimage.

Ouch!

 

[TerryB]

I'm planning on starting on the Frances in St Jean, then detouring onto the Salvador in Leon to Oviedo to the Primitivo. So I won't be walking a traditional route.

If you visit the Camara Santa in Oviedo Cathedral you will be following in the steps of our mediaeval forebears. Some of them left the Frances at Leon, walked the San Salvador (so called because Oviedo cathedral is dedicated to "San Salvador" - The Holy Saviour) to Oviedo then the Primitivo via Tineo and the monastery at Obona to take in as many sacred relics as they could. The "Sudarium" ( https://www.shroud.com/guscin.htm ) is perhaps a more important Christian Relic than the tomb of Santiago.
The Frances, Salvador, Primitivo option is one of the best attested pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela!

Blessings on your Camino
Tio Tel

 

[Tia Valeria]

hello fellow Pilgrims, I walked the Frances in 2015, and this year in 2017 I am heading for El Norte. But, rather than walk the whole Norte, I'm plotting a route that takes in the "best of" El Norte and the "best of" Frances + the Muxia to Santiago trek for my last 100k into Santiago. I have a total of 27 days on the Camino, and I will be walking from June 1 - June 27.

My question to this Forum - 1) for those who have done El Norte, what are the Must See sections, sights and stopovers? 2) for those who have done the French Way, what are your Must See's (I have my favourites, and I'm looking for confirmation and challenges to my top picks, which I will share).

Looking forward to hearing about your ideas. Gracias!

Starting in Santander/Barreda to take you past Santillana del Mar and maybe the cave of Altamira, further cave also at Ribadasella, turn down to and then off at Villaviciosa to pass and visit Valdedios (albergue). Continue on the Primitivo to Oviedo (see @TerryB 's post above). Near Lugo is the church of Villabade with wall paintings and in Lugo are the walls, cathedral, museum etc.Then to San Roman and at Casa de Ponte (Ferreira) turn down to Palas de Rei. A six km walk from there goes to Vilar de Donas where they are trying to encourage more pilgrims to visit this ancient church (wall paintings and much more). Just a few suggestions of places which helped to make our pilgrimage(s) memorable.

 

[Satírico]

Okay, the OP has already walked the Frances twice, so I'm going to assume that she knows what the Camino is all about. Nothing wrong with doing things a bit differently this time.

I'm planning on starting on the Frances in St Jean, then detouring onto the Salvador in Leon to Oviedo to the Primitivo. So I won't be walking a traditional route.

Only once, isn't it?

 

[Jack Heilgeist]

For me the Camino is an adventure and everyday is filled with new friends, new places and new events. No one wants a an adventure that is scripted. Carpe diem!

I think this is an example of what makes the Camino special and unique for each pilgrim. I had been walking on the meseta on a very hot day in June. The countryside had few trees to shade the trail. I and a group of fellow pilgrims came to a pueblo and stayed there to spend the night. The town had nothing....no restaurant and no food store......everything had to be gotten at the aubergue. The auberque was at very low occupancy. Only the bottom floor of the aubergue was open to pilgrims.

When I was checking in, the lady asked me in Spanish if I would like a single room instead of a bunk in the main part of the aubergue. The price was just a few euros more. I said yes. She escorted me to my room in which was a single bed, a chair and not much more. Then came the good part. She showed me the bathroom. Hallelujah! It was a very large bathroom and in it was a very large footed tub.

I quickly returned to my room, grabbed the towel she had given me and returned to the bathroom for an hour of bliss. I filled that tub up to capacity with hot water and soakedtill I looked like a prune. I plugged in my mini-computer and turned on the music I had downloaded. Oh happy day!

The best thing of all is that it was not accessible from the other part of the aubergue and no one but I knew it was there. I wasn't go to share my secret.

I return to do the Camino del Norte in October and I look forward to many more such unexpected experiences.

 

[mspath]

On the camino one never knows when, where or from whom gracious help may arrive. One November after slogging 20 km or so from Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz along the top of the hills through wind, rain and a bit of sleet I finally arrived at the municipal albergue San Esteban at dusk soaked, cold and VERY tired. After climbing the steps and pushing open the door the young Spanish ad hoc hospitalero said "Margaret! How about a tea?" Steaming hot, sugared and immediately served in a jam jar the tea was offered with true caritas. His gracious smile and welcome gesture of sincere simple hospitality were symbolic of the true camino spirit. We had met earlier when pilgrim floor mates at Granon. Such shared serendipity is so very precious.

 

[trecile]

Only once, isn't it?

Yes, you are right. I apparently have poor reading comprehension skills.

 

[Lorin]

Cherry picking the best bits isn't really the spirit of pilgrimage.

We all walk our own Camino, for our own purpose. I walk for solitude, to put one foot in front of the other, for meeting interesting and kind people, for tapas and a glass of wine at the end of the day, to immerse myself in another culture, to improve my Spanish, to find gratitude in u expected corners. And, I walk without judgment of others.

 

[Lorin]

Hi - I've done the Frances twice, once alone and once with my husband. The second time we took a couple of different variations because I had heard they were worth doing. In four weeks we leave for the Norte, then probably over to the Primativo. I have been scouring this forum, as I have in the past, for recommended albergues, restaurants, churches and other sites of interest, because I greatly value the insight of other members who have walked before me. I guess I feel that we all use the forum to help us find what will be the most meaningful camino for us, relying on other members' suggestions, blogs and pictures, let alone equipment choices! So I guess I don't see why wanting to see and experience the nicest parts ( and we all know we will experience the opposite at times) should make one a tourist. If I wanted to be a tourist in Spain (which I would enjoy), I would not walk for days on end, with a pack, listening to people snore, etc., but instead, I choose for the third time to put up with all of that because of the insights I've been privileged to gain from the camino, the friends we've made, and the great places we've seen - thanks in part to many suggestions from other forum members. Sorry, I don't usually go on like this - Cherry

Well said, Cherrys. Thank you. I have been a "tourist" - where I have had the luxury of more than one change of clothes and a known bed at night. But, more often, I have chosen to travel in ways that stretch me with challenges and unknowns. Through this kind of traveling, I have learned much about the world and myself. Having walked the Camino Frances in 2015, through a range of challenges -carrying a pack for 800 kms, trying to sleep in a room with a chorus of 30 people snoring, shin splints, looking for a bed after a 6+ hours of walking in the rain - I don't walk to prove anything. Rather, I walk to learn something more and different. I don't believe my planning to avoid highway walking makes me any less of a Pilgrim or a person.

 

[Lorin]

Ouch!

Agreed! Not very kind or helpful. Not what I would expect from a fellow Pilgrim. I brought my question to this forum for guidance and instead was met with judgment. I will step aside from this thread, take the helpful insights that I received and leave the rest behind.

 

[Paddington Bear]

Yes, you are right. I apparently have poor reading comprehension skills.

No, I think you were just confusing this OP with another OP.

 

[IngridF]

Cherry picking the best bits isn't really the spirit of pilgrimage.

one of the most important lessons I was taught on my first camino was "Tolerance". Who am I to decide what is or is not in the spirit of pilgrimage. My pilgrimage is mine and mine alone.