Walking vs. biking- experienced walkers/bikers PLS respond!

[LTfit]

Hi fellow pelegrinos,

I have a dilemma and would appreciate some advice. July 2010 I walked the Francés from SJPdP to Finisterre and last summer from Sevilla to Zamora along the Via de la Plata until a major physical disaster aborted my Camino. Since that time I have been rehabilitating (physio and yoga) and hope to be in condition to conquer the Camino again this year. My problem is the following: I may not be able to walk this summer (depending on how rehab goes) and am therefore thinking of biking the Camino de Norte. But I am wondering how would it be to bike the Camino instead of walking? And more importantly, won't I miss out on the Camino "atmosphere" by biking?

Any and all advice from those of you that have walked and biked the Camino or just the cyclists would be much appreciated. I am only contemplating the Norte at this time (at some future date I would like to complete the Via de la Plata on foot).

Muchas gracias!

LT

 

[mikevasey]

Hi LT,

When I stayed In Finistera at the end of my first camino I met a woman cyclist who had been on the Frances, she had been cycling 20-25km sections each day because of knee problems and met the same people day after day.

I have not walked the sections of the Norte before Santander so I can not comment on that but as a person who has cycled a lot in the past I had to sympathise a few times with the cyclists for the sections after that. I remember seeing them fly by me on the downhill sections on incredibly rough tracks and as with the Norte a very sharp Incline straight afterwards which would include usually standing up and really pushing on and that in its own way can really test you just as much as walking. There is a lot of road cycling, so that may help, after Soto de Luna I think it would be pretty much straight forward for you a lot of roads and quite easty trails, and even the climb into central Galicia is pretty much a gradual one over a couple of days from Ribadeo.

Buen Camino

Mike

 

[newfydog]

I don't know the Norte, but I'd say the diference between biking and walking spans the range of very similar to totally different experiences.

We attended mass in Le Puy with a big group of Swiss road cyclists, all done up in St James jerseys. We rode mt. bikes on the trail. Some days we went no farther than the walkers, just went a little bit faster, and had more time to visit the towns. The Swiss went on nearby paved roads on road bikes. On the third day we reached the town they were headed for on day one, and I looked at the busy road they would have taken, and thought about all they had missed. Still, they started at the cathedral in LePuy, finished in Santigo, and I'm sure they enjoyed the trip, just different.

 

[Davroos]

I have not walked this route but have walked and ridden the il Primitivo. The difference I found was that there was not the camaraderie as you get from walking as you do greater distances. I did meet people, but never saw them again after that evening/morning

 

[Bridget and Peter]

We have biked from England as far as Gernika, on the Norte from Irun. We walked from Gernika as far as San Vicente de la Barquera and intend to walk from there to SdC this coming April.

We are slow cyclists with hybrid bikes, using the time gained to stop and explore towns and churches. This is harder to do when walking because you have less flexibility about where you are going to stop for the night. We usually chose a cycling route as close to the camino as possible, using large scale maps which give some indication of the sort of track we might expect. Generally we use very minor roads which go through villages. This seemed easier in France than in Spain. But the part of Spain we cycled was quite hilly. We pushed our bikes up a lot of hills. Even so, experience shows that we make the same average time and mileage on a flat day as on a hilly day - the slow climbs are cancelled out by the speedy downhills.

We walked from Gernika mainly to try the different experience. I don't think we had a better experience of pilgrim camaraderie as walkers - sometimes you just 'click' with other pilgrims and have a wonderful evening, sometimes you don't. We have chosen to walk again this year because of practicalities of getting the bikes out. I (Bridget) would rather be cycling, Peter is probably happier walking.

Although one sometimes reads on this forum that albergues are only for walkers, or that cyclists may be refused entry until late in the day, we never had any experience of being treated differently form other pilgrims. I guess the Norte is less busy and we were outside the most popular times of the year.

I think if your rehabilitation is not 100% you would risk having having an unhappy and possibly damaging time if you walked, and you could have just as positive a camino experience by cycling.

all the best

 

[LTfit]

Thank you all for sharing your experiences!

Bridget - the fact that you and Peter have done both really helped me out! I have been wondering in fact whether I would not missed out on the 'Camino camaraderie' by biking. Saying this, every Camino is different. On the Francés I walked most of the day alone and had a wonderful experience - almost a walking meditation if you like. I spent my second Camino walking with someone I met up with on day 1 and it just clicked so there is no predicting what can happen. That is what makes the Camino special after all.

Something in my head is telling me that the Camino is a walking experience - I guess I am just afraid that I will 'miss' something by biking...(you are going faster than the rest!)

Anyone else done both?

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Albergues are for all pilgrims, but do not be surprised if you are not admitted as a cyclist until after 6 p.m. Bridget and Peter may not have encountered it, but it is a common practice. The theory is that a cyclist can go another 5 km with no effort, but a walker cannot. It may not be the only theory that is based on poor facts!

 

[newfydog]

I have been wondering in fact whether I would not missed out on the 'Camino camaraderie' by biking.

We have met quite a few walking pilgrims, both on the trail and in town. If we take a day off we don't lose them, we catch them somewhere down the road and see them again. We've had some of those come visit us here at home. We've also met many other cyclists, some of whom we have ridden with and stayed in touch with for years. I think the comaraderie more depends on you than the mode of transport. If you made friends walking, rest assurred you'll make them biking.

 

[Bridget and Peter]

On the third day we reached the town they were headed for on day one, and I looked at the busy road they would have taken, and thought about all they had missed.

In September 2007 we stayed at Abbaye Leffe (yes, the lager originated there and was provided) with some other cyclists from Antwerp (they wore lycra) who were aiming to arrive at Santiago in three weeks. We have still not completed our pilgrimage! I often think about what they must have missed.

 

[petra01]

Biking- traffic/terrain questions

Three of us plan to bike from Santander or Gijón to Santiago in early June. I am a bit concerned about the terrain. Is it very tough in terms of hills and how is traffic on the roads? I would say it has been a long time since I did any road biking but my companions are more comfortable on bikes (I would prefer walking) I can manage walking my bike at parts but not sure if we need road bikes or hybrids. We would prefer to take trails rather than the road. Is that possible? Any information would be most appreciated!

 

[LTfit]

Hi Petra,

I've been an infrequent poster over the last few months and only see your post now.

I see that no one responded to your question about the terrain...too bad as I would also like to hear from others how the biking is along the Camino de Norte. It looks as if there will be no walking for me so biking is at present the only option.

How are your preparations going? What type of bikes will you be using?

Cheers,
LT

 

[tipperary]

Hi
I have road biked from Santander in june 2010. There are many motorways along this route so the N roads alongside are mostly quiet except near large urban areas. I used a hybrid bike and never went off road. From what i saw large sections are on the road and i was glad to be on a bike. I never had to wait for a bed in an albergue.By the way this is a camino with serious uphill and rainfall is high. I have walked other caminos but i am happy to have just biked this one.
Enjoy
Justin

 

[evanlow]

As a walker for the previous caminos, I can understand the the differences. After walking Camino Frances, Primitivo, Plata and Norte (in May), I am already thinking about the other southern routes which I believe is even more remote for albergues and facilities for the walkers.

I suddenly became interested planning those routes via a bike instead. The less vacation time required is also another bonus. I have a feeling that the terrain, weather and landscape in the south may be more suitable for a bike. Am I wrong? Has anyone cycle from the other southern routes?

 

[LTfit]

Thanks guys for responding!

Justin - would be interested in getting more feed-back from you on your experience especially my original question about meeting up with people along the way when biking (as I will be alone).

Also what type of bike did you use? I have read that many use an hybrid. As I already have a mountain bike I would rather not need to purchase another one.

Have also been wondering about the terrain and weather. In July 2010 I met up with two women on the way to Finisterre and they had left the Norte and descended to the Francés because of all the rain!

Evan - you are definately a repeat offender!!! What was your impression of the Norte after the others? And interested in knowing what do you mean by the "other southern routes"?

Thanks in advance for help!

Cheers,
LT

 

[LTfit]

Sorry Justin, just saw that you used a hybrid, I must still be sleeping!!! Why did you chose a hybrid vs a mountain-bike (only cause used roads)?

 

[evanlow]

Hi LT,

I will walk the Norte this coming May, so can't answer your question now. So far from what I have gathered, the Norte with its headlands are quite challenging for walkers and bikers alike.

The southern caminos I am referring to are primary the Camino de Levante and it's variants like Camino del Sureste, Ruta de la Lana. In short we are talking about serious mesata here. Not sure if such kind of terrain with more sparse towns are better with a bike? Or will a biker be more heavily roasted than a walker?

I would rather walk on the more established routes (Frances, Primitivo, Norte, VLDP), but thought it might be better to bike on the other lesser known routes where distances between the stops are sometimes big (for walkers).

 

[Bridget and Peter]

We are currently walking the Norte from San Vicente. I will try to note which bits of the walking route we follow could be done on a bike and update from time to time.
From San Vicente I think a cyclist on a hybrid could have done almost all the marked route, except a little bit from El Acerboso (I am writing the names from memory so might be a little bit off!) when you could have gone round by the road which we joined later. Or pushed up a steep rough track for a little way.
Yesterday we came downhill from Colombres on a track which a mountain bike would have no trouble with, and I would have managed on my loaded hybrid. THe it was the road ' C 643 or 634. From El Franca there was a track, then back to the orad ' if we were cycling we would have stayed on the road. From El Buelna to Llanes we walked the E9, this is OK for bikes although made of crushed stone. There are signs warning walkers of cyclists! From the viewpoint after and above Andrin, walkers as well as cyclists, I would stay on the road!

more next time there is free internet access!

 

[tipperary]

Hi Lt, Evanlow
comments on your queries.

Bikes
If you intend to be mainly on the path a mountain bike is preferred.
If you plan to be mainly on the road a touring or hybrid bike is best. Hybrid bikes are often called treking bikes and they are similiar wt and gearing to touring bikes (low gears with a triple in front).
Hybrids can with care be used on easy off road. I have road biked the Frances, the Plata , but the Norte is not on my list to bike off road. For me there is just too much uphill. The other two I mentioned dont have as much uphill.
Of course if you take a mountain bike you can switch from road to path as you wish. In deciding your bike type its best to do a trail run in your local area.

Heat
Its easier to cope with heat on a bike. The greater speed of the bike helps and generally a biking day can be shorter, often finished by 3.

Southern caminos
These often have long walking stages and the need to carry a lot of water. On a bike this is not a problem, since one can reload more often. Very often the terrain is similiar for 100km , this is a little more than a days cycle.

Lt with your issues it looks like a bike is the way to go. Biking is not as severe on the body.

Bikers are diluted on the camino so one is likely to socialise with different sets of pilgrims each day.
Buen camino
Justin

 

[LTfit]

Thanks Evanlow, Bridget and Justin for your replies!

Evalow - your post has put me on to another posibility: the Camino de Levante! From what I have read, it might just be what I am looking for (easier on the body post rehab). There are several forum members that have walked this route but thus far I have never come across a biker. Will post something under that section. Happy preparations (always such a great part of the Camino) and look forward to hearing about your experiences on the Norte!

Bridget - thanks for the update. Do appreciate any/all comment or suggestions that you have as a walker/biker on the Camino. Hope that all is well with you both!

Justin - chapeau biking the Francés and the Via de la Plata. Having walked the both (well the Vdlp only to Zamora) I can't imagine biking a few of those sections. Of course road-biking is another story, in fact I saw more bikers on the VdlP this summer than walkers! Back to my original question: did you feel any less of a "Camino" experience on the bike vs. walking (still hesitating due to this point)?

Cheers,
LT

 

[evanlow]

did you feel any less of a "Camino" experience on the bike vs. walking (still hesitating due to this point)?

Like LT, I would also like to know the answer to that, preferably from someone who has both walked and biked the camino.

Can a biker be meditating, lost in his/her own thoughts and one with the road like a walker?

 

[LTfit]

Thanks for stating my question more eloquently!

 

[newfydog]

did you feel any less of a "Camino" experience on the bike vs. walking (still hesitating due to this point)?

Can a biker be meditating, lost in his/her own thoughts and one with the road like a walker?

Absolutely. This is not Pulau Tekong, this is Spain!

 

[petra01]

Terrain/traffic questions

Thanks to all of you for responding.

Justin, You mention to the bad uphills. Was that the primitive route or the coastal route or both?

LT- My plans are coming along but not too rapidly as too many other things to take care of, but right now, it seems we may rent some mountain bikes. Still, I am considering just buying a mountain bike in Madrid (lower end Specialized or Trek) as it is not cheap to rent them and I live in Germany and could use a new bike Anyone have experience purchasing bikes in Spain and have a place to recommend?

Bridget and Peter- you mention that you did the minor roads. Would you be willing to share more of the route you took? I would really like to not be in traffic as it has been a very long time since I did any road biking and I have to admit I am worried about that. You didn't find the uphills too much to bear? Did you stay in the hostels every night or did you also camp?

Thanks for all of you for sharing your experience. I greatly appreciate it. For now, we are thinking of spending the 1st two weeks of June and haven't decided if we will bring camping gear or hope for the best for the hostels.

 

[petra01]

newfydog= where was this picture taken? It looks great!

 

[newfydog]

Sorry petra, I can't pinpoint that photo. I took it in 2001 as a color slide and scanned it for a talk this year. I had quite a few "lonely road" scenes where it feels pretty good to be on a bike.

 

[evanlow]

These landscape in the pictures was what I had imagined to be common in the south of Spain. This pretty much seals it any future caminos in the south for me.

And Newfydog, Pulau Tekong never look so good!

 

[newfydog]

These landscape in the pictures was what I had imagined to be common in the south of Spain. This pretty much seals it any future caminos in the south for me.

And Newfydog, Pulau Tekong never look so good!

Those pictures are not from the south of Spain, they are all from the standard Camino Frances. They are mostly near Burgos, a part of the Camino we love biking through.

ps: we loved Tekong as well!

 

[evanlow]

Newfydog,

I know. The landscape in the mesata near Burgos is pretty much similar in most of central and southern Spain.

 

[LTfit]

Newfydog - thanks for the pictures! I personally love those barren, dry stretches maybe that's why I do not understand why anyone would want to miss the Meseta. The Via de la Plata had the same in Andalucia and Extremadura.

Petra - I have a Trek mountain-bike and a Specialized racing-bike so either would be a good choice I would like, especially if you want to buy a bike anyway. Should I decide to do either the Norte or the Levante I plan on using my mountain-bike. Just need to add attachments for paniers and change my tires. Keep us/me posted as I am not planning on going until July/August.

 

[Bridget and Peter]

Bridget - thanks for the update. Do appreciate any/all comment or suggestions that you have as a walker/biker on the Camino. Hope that all is well with you both!

(Petra) Bridget and Peter- you mention that you did the minor roads. Would you be willing to share more of the route you took? I would really like to not be in traffic as it has been a very long time since I did any road biking and I have to admit I am worried about that. You didn't find the uphills too much to bear? Did you stay in the hostels every night or did you also camp?

Hi, we have had to come home early due to a family bereavement, having walked just 60miles or so from San Vicente to La Isla. Two years ago we walked from Gernika to San Vicente. Only previous to that, so mostly in France were we cycling. The first bit of Spain was a bit hilly, with a long push out of Irun, but that would have been a long climb for walkers too.

Bridget and Peter- you mention that you did the minor roads. Would you be willing to share more of the route you took? I would really like to not be in traffic as it has been a very long time since I did any road biking and I have to admit I am worried about that. You didn't find the uphills too much to bear? Did you stay in the hostels every night or did you also camp?

My opinion about the cycling / walking issue and following the 'exact route' is that there IS no exact route, that when you are on the ground you find both walking and cycling pilgrims who have followed slightly different routes from yourself. Most of coastal path (E9) is cycleable, but there are also minor roads which take in the same villages.

These roads were really not busy in March / April - even the autoroute is not busy!! Some of the roads round the coastal villages might well be busier in the summer holiday months, but not with fast traffic, I would think, just people parking by the sea or going into camp sites etc. You would soon get confident. When we started cycling for our holidays Peter was much less confident than Bridget who did cycle holidays as a child. He was worried at first, and would pause at the side of a road if a tractor was coming even if it seemed to Bridget there was plenty of room for us all. That was fine - there are no camino police who say you have to cover a certain distance a day, or be especially brave!!

You are not route finding in virgin territory, there are road signs and km markers and the sea on your right and the mountains on your left to help you navigate, and you can get reasonable maps free from the tourist offices or buy the Michelin 1:150,000 (141 and 142 are Coastal Asturias and the relevant part of Galicia, if memory serves me right) all of which help you to work out where to go, if you get away from the yellow markers. There was a path by the sea somewhere between Leces and La Isla where some very tough looking mountain bikers had to push through a bit of mud, and we 50-something slow walkers overtook them (yessss!) but at the end of that they sped away ahead of us again.

I know that during the planning stage one wants to understand every detail, but actually there are some things you just cannot envisage before you get there. Once there you will discover what the paths are like for yourself: if some are not comfortable for you to cycle, then you can rearrange your plans and intentions. We are all different, and we would all find different ways of travelling the Camino, even if we all walked, or cycled, or pogo-jumped!

But be reassured, there are lots of people out there, other pilgrims, hospitaleros, tourist office staff, locals, who are only too happy to help and advise if you need support. You will not be on your own. Part of the camino experience is going outside what you are comfortable with and discovering that you can survive and even enjoy it!

We only camped in France, preferring now not to carry the weight. Pilgrim albergues seem to be 5 euros per person in Asturias. Other youth hostel type places (Llanes, Ribadesella. El Cantu in Colunbres) were 10 or 12 each. From Leces (near Ribadesella) we had worked out we could stay in pilgrim albergues all the way to Santiago,with days of rarely more than 20km or so and some much less.

Sorry, this is long and rambling - too much in my head having just returned. I am intending to be encouraging!! I

 

[LTfit]

Bridget,

I am sorry to hear that you and Peter had to cut your Camino short. Hopefully you will be able to continue at another time.

Thank you so much for taking the time out to write - and no, you were not rambling!!!

During my past Caminos I appreciated the "let's see what happens" attitude but now, planning to bike, I feel that I have to prepare a bit more!

Felices Pascuas y un abrazo,
LT

 

[tipperary]

Hi Petra,
I road biked the coastal route in June 2010. I never had to wait for a bed in an albergue. The Mundicamino web site has a profile of each walking stage. On the road the uphill will be only slightly less as it tracks the walking path.Camping adds to the wt on the bike and makes progress slower.
This route is along the coast and urban areas are frequent, so expect traffic near towns. That said drivers respect bikers and i never felt at risk.
It pays to be prepared and adds to the enjoyment. It makes sense to try a few days biking with your friends in your local area.
Buen camino
justin

 

[fraluchi]

During 2012 (Jan-Nov) 27'323 biking pilgrims were recorded at the Santiago Pilgrims' Office.
In 2013 during the same period there were 26'541.
This year (2014 - between January and end of November) the numbers were 25'198.
Percentage-wise, compared to the number of walking pilgrims, bikers decreased from 17% in 2012 to 12% in 2014.
What we don't know is which routes these bikers had been taken and why those numbers decreased so much.