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Walking the whole Norte or combine with the Primitivo?

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MichaelSG

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We've had a change in plans. We were going to walk the Via Domitia this year from Vercelli to Arles but for a variety of reasons, we decided to walk the Camino del Norte instead. The plan is to start in Irun in mid-April, just after Easter. While doing research on that Camino, I started thinking about walking to Villaviciosa, then heading down to Oviedo and the Primitivo to Arzua and Santiago.

For anyone that has walked both the Norte (west of Villaviciosa) and the Primitivo, which way do you think is better at this time of year? Feel free to interpret "better" however you like but it would help if you let me know why you would prefer one over the other - IF you have a preference. Thanks much for you thoughts.
 
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Hi, MichaelSG,

I walked the Norte in 2007 (and will be back in 2017!) and the Salvador/Primitivo three times over the past years. Hard to choose, no right or wrong answer. But for me it was an easy decision when I started the Norte, to stay on the Norte (though we did walk down to Oviedo for a couple of days and then walk back up to Aviles).

For me, the main reasoning was that I was certain that I would be back to walk the Salvador/Primitivo, but who comes to Spain to walk the Norte from Villaviciosa? Since you are also a repeat offender, that might be something you consider as well. The Salvador and the Primitivo make for a spectacular shorter camino on their own, or you can combine them with the Madrid, the Olvidado, the Vadiniense, and probably a few others I am not thinking of now to make it longer. But it's hard to add the second half of the Norte to anything but the first half of the Norte.

I know that many, if not most, of the people walking the Norte from Irun detour over to the Primitivo. For some the lure of the higher elevations of the Norte is the main attraction, and others don't want to split with their group of buddies.

Weatherwise, nothing jumps out at me. The elevations are higher on the Primitivo, so there might be a chance of snow, especially in the Hospitales stretch, but by the time you get there it will be May.

The second half of the Norte is quite pretty, not spectacular scenery for the most part, but it's Galicia at its best. And the western half of Asturias after Aviles has a lot of beauty as well. So bottom line -- I think you are going to have a tough decision. Buen camino, Laurie
 
Much like Laurie posts above, I opted to complete the Norte and save the Primitivo for another time as a separate Camino.
I returned the next year with my grandsons and walked the Primitivo...then added the Portuguese as the Primitivo is a shorter route.
The Norte is much less crowded after the Primitivo cut-off as it seems as if a very large number of people elect to divert.
 
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Hi Michael,
I walked the San Salvador/Primitivo in 2015 so when I was on the Norte last October I decided to stay on the Norte.
Most of the pilgrims I met along the Norte took the Primitivo option at the split. It was very quiet along the remainder of the Norte but I'm glad I experienced it.
If do not think you will be back walking in that part of Spain again then I would recommend the Primitivo option.
buen Camino!
 
I think you will hear on the Norte that the Primitivo is given a special place, and is seen as the road to walk if you are fit, and brave. Those who decide to walk it taken in a big breath and detour south.

I agree that I would not be tempted to go back and finish the Norte, so if mapping Spain out in your mind through your feet is fun for you, do the whole Norte. If you prefer a wonderful Camino filled views views galore, then head south and combine with the Primitivo.

And because the Primitivo is so beautiful, you'll go back and walk it in combination with the Salvador.

In the end weather may be what makes you decide as you walk along the coast. If there has been a lot of rain, the Primitivo may be quite muddy, and you may decide to keep walking flatter terrain...
 

MichaelSG:

My recommendation is to complete the Norte. About half the people switched to the Primitivo when I walked the Norte. Some because they wanted to do " two Camino's", others because of friendships they made along the way.

The Norte is a great walk the entire way.

The Primitivo is different but also a good walk and in my opinion perfect for a shorter Camino (11-14 days) or a longer combination walk with the Salvador/Primitivo ( 16-21 days) or Madrid/Salvador/Primitivo ( 27-33 days).

So many choices and all of them are great.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hi, what @peregrina2000 @grayland @norelle @Anemone del Camino and @jpflavin1 said!

I walked the whole Norte because I wanted to walk the Norte (not any other camino). I loved it!

There was also, in the back of my mind , that if I stay on the Norte, I can go back again (yeay!) to walk the Salvador / Primitivo.

After the split it suddenly went quiet , as others took the Primitivo. But we stayed in touch and met up again in Santiago

Jill
 
Hey Mike, this thread has caused me to come out of my lurker environment .
First, the replies are spot on. As others have alluded to, you can come back for the Primitivo.
Secondly, I’m responding only because I think I can bring a good perspective.
In 2015, I walked the Norte from Irun all the way until merging with the Frances in Arzua. My thought was I’m walking the Norte and wanted to see the whole enchilada. I did have to say adios to some good people I met along "the way” at the Primitivo turn off but met quite a few new people from Gijon an onwards. I absolutely loved this walk. The Norte from Villaviciosa does not get the credit it deserves. I get it; it does not have the big climbs and rustic charm of the Primitivo but it fits in nicely to everything you just walked. If you go this way don’t curse me on the stretch from Gijon to Aviles .
In 2016, I walked the Norte from Irun to Villaviciosa then turned onto the Primitivo. Wow, what a change. It was like eating fish for two weeks then having steak the next two. It went from walking along the coast enjoying beautiful cities and seaside towns to hiking up mountains and enjoying beautiful cities and interesting villages. Walking the Norte then hiking the Primitivo just didn’t feel simpatico for me. Don’t get me wrong here the Primitivo packs a lot of awesome. It is arguably pound for pound more scenic than the other Camino’s in Spain.
In conclusion, is the Primitivo better than the second half of the Norte?………… Yes (imho).
Would I do the Norte/Primitivo again?…………. No; I would do the Primitivo on its own or link it up with Salvador trail.
Lastly, I hope my perspective helps. There is no right or wrong here its all good.
 

I was fortunate to meet with @norelle while walking the Primitivo in 2015.
It is always a extraordinary bonus to meet a fellow member of the forum while walking.
 
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I'm so glad I came across this post - no opinion to offer, but because I will be walking for the first time on the Norte starting the week after Easter. Just bought my tickets today. I was wondering about the Norte/Primitivo decision. You've all made it easier for me (Norte all the way - I think) MichaelSG, maybe we'll meet along the road. Buen Camino to all.
 
Hi, just an aside, I stayed off the CF one more day, by taking the right hand fork at the far end of Boimorto. It’s about 18kms and comes out just beyond Salceda. Jill
 
We walked the Norte / Primitivo May 2016 and are planning to do again in 2018. No disrespect to Norte's second half as I have not experienced it but we enjoyed the route very much. Primitivo very rural and wild compared to coast. Joining the highway in Melide was so unpleasant that we are planning on ending just before there next time. We found Galicia pleasant but dull after Asturias.

I'm sure it will be great either way. Good luck.
 
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Redvespablur said:
Joining the highway in Melide was so unpleasant that we are planning on ending just before there next time
Click to expand...
I think that many of us have felt that deep culture-shock on arrival in Melide after walking the Primitivo. In October I seriously considered endng my third Camino Frances in Sarria in revulsion after discovering what a theme park the place has become. At least with @MichaelSG 's wide experience he will have a good idea of what is in store.
 
I am not planning to walk all the way into Santiago. First of all, it would be a mad dash all the way, actually probably impossible as I have only 30 days in country. God willing, I will return again for another go at another path, and the Primitivo sounds like a likely candidate. Last year Santiago at the end was important to me, and I rushed the last week to get there. I'm not interested in doing that this time. This time I'll just walk until I arrive wherever I end up a day or two before my flight home.
 
I have not done the Norte, but it is in my radar, for sure. I HAVE done the Primitivo and wish I had had the time to add the Salvador to it. The Primitivo was indeed spectacular, and being from Colorado and having hiked many a mountain, it was more comparable that I would have ever imagined. Reaching Melide is anti-climactic, but it was still nice for me to push on to Santiago.
My story of the Primitivo is here, if you are interested in seeing more of what it is like: http://www.pilgrimagetraveler.com/camino-primitivo.html Happy decision-making!
 
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If I were a bit time constrained I would start in San Sebastián and gain a day (or maybe 2). The first day ( in my opinion) is really not anything special.
SS is worth a few extra hours and starting there would give you time to look around.
 
grayland said:
If I were a bit time constrained I would start in San Sebastián and gain a day (or maybe 2). The first day ( in my opinion) is really not anything special.
SS is worth a few extra hours and starting there would give you time to look around.
Click to expand...

Really? We found Irun to SS a pretty epic day - and we got lost and walked inland missing the highly regarded high coastal route. It goes to show how differently everyone experiences the route
 
Redvespablur said:
Really? We found Irun to SS a pretty epic day - and we got lost and walked inland missing the highly regarded high coastal route. It goes to show how differently everyone experiences the route
Click to expand...

As I said... simply "in my opinion."
Having said that...there is nothing wrong with the first day from Irun.
I was suggesting that it would be an easy way to save a day when on a short time budget.
 
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That was my spring 2016 camino Irun to Santiago via Primitivo. Perfect Buen camino
 

Hi Michael
Agreed with all comments made , I walked the North starting in Irun last July 1st and picked this time in order to maximize the opportunity of getting good weather on this rout ,and I did ,neither was it too hot, I think mid April might be a bit risky with regard to encountering adverse weather .

Re Premativo - Outside Villavacosa I reflected for a while when I came to the turn off for Ovieda but decided to go straight on and planned to return to walk the Primitivo at a later time . I think the Primitivo is best walked in summer in order to maximize avoiding bad weather .
Regards
tom
 
I agree with @Camino Tom. The Hospitales route is the highlight of the Primitivo and if the weather is bad it is nasty, nasty. There are yellow arrows on wooden posts about every feet up high, to guide the pilgrims in the frequent foggy conditions. Summer is the best time there, but there are never any guarantees.
 
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Thanks much everyone. Your comments have helped a lot. We likely won't be making a decision until we stop in Oviedo - We're definitely getting that far. After that, it's either back up to Gijon on the Norte or southwest on the Primitivo. The weather, other pilgrims, our legs, future walks, timing, etc. will all go into the decision. Right now, I am slightly leaning towards doing the Primitivo section but only by a hare's breath (or a hair's breadth). I can do only one long walk per year but I have lots of time to do it. 2018-2020, Insh'Allah, we will allow us to do the Via Domitia / Camino de Giron from Vercelli to Manresa and the Francigena del Sud from Rome to Bari. It will likely be several years before we get back to Spain so I want to make this walk memorable.

@Pong, current plans have us likely kicking off from Irun on 19 April. Maybe we'll meet! @grayland, We'll need to touch our toes on French soil to start us off. Time should not be a problem unless the climbs, illness, sightseeing, etc get in the way. Finally, we'll go all the way to Santiago. We can't not do that. We actually greatly enjoyed the day and stops from Navarrete to Logrono when we walked the Camino Ignaciano. I'm sure the two or three days at the end of the Frances will be at least tolerable, if not totally enjoyable. We also know how to avoid the crowds if we have to.
 
I've never hiked Colorado (tiny day hike sfrom Estes Park excepted), but I live in NH and our modestly elevated mountains have never heard of a switchback! Lots of backpacking in the Sierra also. I'm sure I would LOVE the Primitivo. And my plans (God willing/Inshallah) involved returning to a different Camino each year as long and my health and $$ hold out. I will hopefully be able to tack on the Salvador to that trip So looking forward to this year's edition.
 
I'm leaving the states on the 19th and expect to start from Irun on the 21st. I'm a really slow walker, but who knows - I'll keep an eye out. You shouldn't be too hard to spot if you're sporting the same hairdo as in your avatar As you can probably tell from MY avatar, I'll be the one with all kinds of stuff hanging off me
 
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grayland said:
As I said... simply "in my opinion."
Having said that...there is nothing wrong with the first day from Irun.
I was suggesting that it would be an easy way to save a day when on a short time budget.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion. I started last year in Pamplona and though my Camino was extraordinary and I don't like to nurture regrets, I do wish I had started at the border of St. Jean, especially since I was short on time then too and knew I wouldn't walk the whole way (I skipped a middle section after Burgos). This time I want to step into France and walk as far across Spain and my legs will carry in about 4 weeks.
 
as gaillimh said:
That was my spring 2016 camino Irun to Santiago via Primitivo. Perfect Buen camino
Click to expand...
Mine,too. I loved it and thought the first and second day (I started late on the first day and slept in an old mill all by myself) were spectacular. In fact, the entire length of it was wonderful. Missed the hospitales and took the alternative route because of dense fog and rain but that route was also beautiful. Many things to stop for on the way including cave paintings in a couple locations. Can only covey my enthusiasm for the combo route. However, I don't feel the need to complete one before starting another, nor will it bother me if I can't do them all. Those decisions are so individual and may not even need to be made in advance.
 
Hi out there,,,I am thinking of starting the Norte/Primitivo in June can any one tell me the best way to get from Biarritz airport
to Irun,,,, thanks David
 
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MichaelSG:

Villaviciosa is where the two Camino's actually split. That said, you can walk to Oviedo and then back to Aviles if you want to see Oviedo. My experience is that most have made up their mind in advance. Villaviciosa is a nice relaxing stop to ponder your decision if you have not already decided.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
freespirit said:
Hi out there,,,I am thinking of starting the Norte/Primitivo in June can any one tell me the best way to get from Biarritz airport
to Irun,,,, thanks David
Click to expand...

Hi David

Last September we took the Transports 64 Line 816 bus straight from the Biarritz airport to Hendaye. It cost 2 Euros. Then we walked across the bridge to Irun.

It's easy to find information on the bus with an internet search. There is an information desk in the airport that can also assist you.

buen camino
 
Thanks norelle best wishes
 
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I will be coming to the start of the Norte by bus from Bilbao. From what I could tell from Google maps, it looks like taking the bus right to Hendaye might yield a shorter walk to the bridge than a stop in Irun itself - that is if the bus station is near the Gare SNCF. Can anyone advise if this is actually the case? Any advice on which alternative would be better? Thanks.
 

The bus station in Irun, Spain, is next to the Irun railroad station. From there you can walk towards the Irun albergue and start your camino. There is no need or reason for you to go into France or to cross the international bridge at Hendaye, France.

Good luck and Buen camino!
 
Pesa.net has a good bus service from Bilbao to Irun and Hendaye. You will be able to stop at the Hendaye train station with is less than a half km over the border, ie, closer than walking from Irun to the border (~2km). They only seem to have the one bus per day at 7:00am though so I'll likely arrive in Bilbao in the afternoon, stay there that night, bus to Hendaye the next morning and walk just over to Irun or Barrio Jaizubia. The real walk starts the next morning and, hopefully, I'll be over jetlag by then.

ps, Margaret is right, there is no "Camino" or historical need to start in Hendaye but I like the idea of walking from France and that's why I will be doing it.
 
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Mspath, thanks for the info. However, like MichaelSG, I would like to start from France. MichaelSG, thank you also, for the bus information. I'm thinking of 2 nights in Bilbao, then bus to either Irun or Hendaye, and start walking straight away. Hope we meet somewhere on the road. Cheers!
 
I would suggest that two nights in Bilbao may be a bit much as you will be walking back through Bilbao and spending another night later.
Consider using that extra night somewhere like San Sebastián which is one of the best cities in Europe to visit..
Just a thought.
 
Hi - we're starting probably from Irun on April 19, having just booked our tickets out of NYC to Madrid (during the inauguration, speech, enough said). Hopefully we will meet up with you - Cherry
 
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Michael - looks like we are starting the same day - hope to see you, Cherry and George
 
There is also light rail from the center of San Sebastian to Irun Ficoba station that is very close to the bridge
 
I won't be arriving in Bilbao until the evening and just plan to rest the next day. I probably will walk around a bit, but don't expect to tourist much. I am just thinking that 2 nights in the same place will be more restful and helpful for jet lag than packing up and relocating the morning after a 24+ hour day of travel. I thank you for the suggestion though. You certainly seem experienced and knowledgeable about the caminos.
 
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cherrys said:
Hi - we're starting probably from Irun on April 19, having just booked our tickets out of NYC to Madrid (during the inauguration, speech, enough said). Hopefully we will meet up with you - Cherry
Click to expand...
Hope so too. Buen Camino.
 
We are also starting from Irun on the 23rd April. My husband enjoys surfing so he will be hoping to get a few waves while we progress along the coast. We have also been thinking that we will leave the Camino at Arzua as we have already done that bit into Santiago and bus it up to Ferrol and do the Ingles as it come into Santiago from a different direction. Looks like a lot of people are starting at the end of April so looking forward to meeting some of you. My husband will be the one in board shorts!
 

We watched and met lots of surfers on the Norte in October. They were all wearing wetsuits though; might still be cold in April/May? Have fun!
Jill
 
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When we walked in May we were not at all tempted to swim, except for the camping site with the heated indoor pool. Which was superb, apart from the dash back to the tent in the cold rain!
 
Hopefully he will be able to hire a wetsuit plus a board as they would be a bit hard to get into his pack. However from reading lots of people's posts I am sure there is someone out there who could accomplish it
 
I, too, will be arriving in Irun in late April and was planning the Norte/Primitivo, but now I am rethinking...Oh well, I guess I'll see how "mud season" is in Spain this year. If you get on ahead of me, I'll look for your posts!
 
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