Walking the Via De La Plata - Oct / Nov - advice needed

[BlackKnight84]

Dear fellow pilgrims,

I walked the Camino Frances five years ago, and I will be walking the via de la plata starting end of Sep / early Oct from Seville. It's part of a larger sabbatical I have decided to take from work - healthy to do every now and then to take stock of life (Plus the Camino has been calling me back over the past 5 years!). I have a few questions for you lovely folk on the forum that I'm hoping will help me with my final preparations over the next two months before I get there!

Just a few background notes - I'm a 33 year old male from Australia with a clean bill of health, and of average fitness. I meditate regularly, do yoga a few times a week, and have just started getting into indoor rock climbing. I love to walk -though I haven't trained as much as yet for the walk physically. I'm ready mentally for it. Hoping to get a few days of walking in before I leave in the next two months to warm up the muscles. In terms of the Camino though I found when I walked the Camino Frances last time it was more of a mental endurance challenge for me. Listening to your body and taking rest days when required helped me manage it physically. This being said I appreciate the Via De La Plata is a very different walk to the Camino Frances so your thoughts on what it is like at the moment would be great! Questions below:

1. I understand the Via De La Plata is more isolated than the Camino Frances with more frequent longer stretches between towns. I have most of my gear from the Camino Frances still but I was going to upgrade my water bladder to three litres, and aim to have enough space in my bag that if I need to stock up on food for two days I can. Any other must have items of gear you would recommend I should get that might not be obvious?

2. How well supported is the Via de la Plata these days? I have a guide book in English by Gerald Kelly (http://www.viadelaplataguide.net/) and I intend to go through that and figure out a rough walking itinerary. Are there any particular sections of the track that are quite isolated with little in the way of towns to stay overnight with food provisions that I should be aware of?

3. Any must stay at Albergues or places to check out when I'm on the way?

4. I will be walking the whole 1000 kilometres. I'll be going the way that misses the Camino Frances. Just generally are there any pearls of wisdom previous people who have been on the walk have found useful that they could impart with me as part of my preparation?

5. I will have a bit of extra luggage with me when I fly in as I'll be doing a few touristy things in Madrid and Seville before I start.... I'll have a small case in addition to my Camino backpack and gear. I was hoping to post the case and its contents to Santiago to pick up when I arrive... do you know if the post offices in Spain would let me post a small suitcase with my stuff?? Or is there a better services I should use?

6. I have a basic understanding of Spanish but it's not amazing. I still have two months to practice it so hopefully I'll be up in a better state with that. Curious though - how easy is it to get around with Spanglish on that walk? What are the main challenges I might face with the limited Spanish?

Thanks and buen camino!

Tristan

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hello Tristan,

What a wonderful journey awaits you.

I walked from Sevilla to Grimaldo, where my knee gave out, so let me tell you about that section, which is about the first third. I also posted about it as I walked, so perhaps you can find that thread and see if it is of interest to you.

1. VDLP is more isolated. A good thing in my book. But from April 1st in Sevilla it was never lonely, in fact albergues full at night. But you get peace and quiet during the day. Heaven.

I walked with 3 liters of water, and there were times when I was still making sure I wasn't going through it too fast. Packing some boxed gazpacho and tonic water as well as the water worked for me. As for food, you will find some every evening, don't worry about carrying food for two days. Carry for snacks/lunch, that is enough.

The only item I brought, and was glad I had, is a Euroschrim silver umbrella which hleps protect feom the sun and heat. I onder if it might not also be useful in early September.


2. I also walked with the Kelly guide and ot does the job very well. Yes, it is true, no cafe con leche every 5 km, you will have many days with 20+km with nothing in terms of bars, facilities, water fountains, or even a place to sit in the shade, but there are ways to breakup your stages to make them manageable even if you are not a 30km person. I had 15km days followed by a 20km one for exmple.

There are also places where a bus or taxi can come in handy. For example, leaving Sevilla, ypu may want to take the bus to Santiponce and walk from there to Guillana. Leaving Castilblanco by taxi to the entrance of the Berrocal park os another way to avoid a 30+km day with the steapest hill ever at the end. Lots of walkers sharing a taxi in the morning at the albergue in my wave.

There is one point that is a true challenge, and that's the etapa from Caceres through the embalse de Alcantara, and that's because the municipal albergue in the embalse is closed for major plumbing repairs. There is a fishing club there, but they will not cater to us walkers. Some walk the whole thing, or at least from Casar de Caceres, but other simply take the train in Caceres to Canaveral.

The other challenge os feom carcaboso to Caparra. But there is a an albergue a few km off route that can come pick you up along the Camino and drop you off again in the morning, that's in Olivos de Plasencia.

As for food, pick up a liter of boxed gazpacho, or even an individual tortilla or chunks of cured ham to eat along the way.

4. I found the quality of albergues to be outstanding. Many of them offer fully made beds. In Guillana the muni may still be closed (local politics) but the private is ideally located. The muni in Merida is old school, but superbly located. In Alcuezar, or is ot Aljucen, their is an albergue in a monastery that looks after elderly and unwell men who have noone to care for them. I did not stay there but here it is an incredible experience. Casa Elena in Carcaboso is apparently the first albergue on this route, and the lady who founded is still around although her son and a maid now take care of the albergue.

5. Pearls of wisdom? Keep hydrated, bring a phone for emergencies, be super careful with the sun.

6. Extra luggage. Two options. Ivar offers this service, look for info somewhere on this site, or the new Paq Peregrino service offered by Correos. They keep your extras in Santiago for a flat fee for x number of days and then for 1€ a day, I think, for any time after time. Look at the correos.es website.

7. Many non-Spanisb speakers walking this route, you will be just fine. Just smile nicely as you gesture

 

[Anniesantiago]

I would not worry as much about food as I would water. And in the months you are going, it's not such an issue.
The wells were dry for us in midsummer.

The only caution would be to try to walk with some others on that first couple of stages out of Sevilla where there have been a few robberies.
Other than that, enjoy!

 

[Deleted member 43780]

I would not worry as much about food as I would water. And in the months you are going, it's not such an issue.
The wells were dry for us in midsummer.

The only caution would be to try to walk with some others on that first couple of stages out of Sevilla where there have been a few robberies.
Other than that, enjoy!

Ditto what Annie stated. Especially the water.
I also would walk with another person the first few stages out of Seville.

Each to their own. I do not recommend Trianna Back Packers as a place to stay. Few on here says it was ok.

Hotel Simon is close to the Cathedral. And in a good location.

Little bit more than Trianna Back Packers; but, at least you will get some sleep.

I can recommend a few other places if you like.

You can get your passport at Hotel Simon. Get it stamped at the Cathedral. I got mine stamped at the security desk where the tourists pay to get into the Cathedral. This would be on the other side of the Cathedral from Hotel Simon's location.

Go to exploreseville.com web page.

Has everything you would ever need to know about Seville. From transportation, where to eat, stay, more and more and more.

You may have some rainy days in Seville and north of Seville mid to late October. And November.
But, who knows these days. Weather seems to not be the same anymore.

Watch your wallet in Seville. Lots of sticky fingers around. Especially in the tourist areas and buses.

The metro will service little purpose for you.
City buses are easy. Clean and cheap. Will get you all around Seville.
Seville is a walking city. Also, many bike paths in the city.

 

[terryenroute]

I walked it sept/oct 2016, and i will second the advice for lots of water. Especially in the south. Sevilla to Salamanca was very hot and dry. The food was no problem, and there was never a problem finding a great albergue or hostel. The Sanabres is an excellent choice. You select this route at Granja de Moreruela. This planner I found to be especially useful.

http://www.godesalco.com/plan/plata

Salamanca is a must for a rest day. Other fantastic cities were Merida, and Zafra. Very beautiful cities.

Have a look at my blog www.terryonthevdlp.weebly.com if you like.

At that time, there were just enough people on the trail to make it interesting, without being crowded.

P.S. I was 60 and I can assure you that I was not in nearly as good a shape physically as it sounds that you are. It will be awesome!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Take care not to leave valuables in the Merida albergue too. In fact, that's a great place for a rest day. Lots to see there. You could get a hotel room instead there.

 

[george.g]

By the way, the robberies were in 2013!

 

[camino07]

Walked out of Seville 20th April and no worries about walking river path from Seville. I did have a buddy this time but would have walked solo. Many pilgrims at that time of year but not sure how many
there will be September/October. I am returning to Salamanca to complete my Via on 10th September. Hope there will be some company.
l think you will love the Sanabrese,I can't wait to repeat it. Hotel Simon great place in Seville.

 

[Levi]

I walked the Via last year starting out on 18th September. I can echo what the others say. It was very hot for the first two weeks so plenty of water is essential. The weather got cooler,however, as I got further North and Autumn set in...
There are two or three very long stages. Caceres to Canaveral tested me almost to my limit but the reward was the wonderful albergue in Canaveral.

Not huge numbers of pilgrims. I often walked without seeing anyone during the day but almost always met with others in the evenings.

And lots of four legged creatures to encounter...cattle...pigs...sheep...

The Via was a special way for me - a real challenge - and so beautiful.

I'm heading back to Zamora in September to walk the Sanabres as last time I took the Astorga route.

Buen camino!

 

[sharon w]

The Gronze site is good to refer to. Also, load some apps on your phone: maps.me is excellent. As well, there are the Eroski app which covers a range of Caminos, Camino Sanabrese Basic and Via de la Plata Basic, which can give you additional information.
We also flew into Madrid. There are some excellent free walking tours you can do there. Also, the market area behind Plaza del Sol has great tapas.
We started from Sevilla on 15th April this year. It was a wonderful walk. Some areas have very little shade so a wide brimmed hat or umbrella would be good. Two wonderful Albergues were Casa Camino Riego and FyM albergue in El Cubo de Vino.

 

[Deleted member 12253]

Walked vdlp seville to santiago march april 2017. Its very easy walking but mentally tough. On your own most days and straight north no coffee break or pit stops. Very good albergue 20km but 5 or 6 long days 32 to 38km. 3 day out of seville very easy 16km road but quiet and 16 km of heaven in national park. Water sourse in park beside route in old building about 1km from park entrance. Small hill at end of park no problem. Buen camino

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hi Tristan
I don't think you need much more than what's already been said here. It's easy to overthink these things. Interesting what you said about the mental challenges of the Frances - for the VdlP I'd say it's even more important to go with an open, pragmatic and patient frame of mind, adapting to what you find rather than trying to keep to a preset notion of kilometres and must-see destinations.
I'd just add that when I walked (Seville-Finisterre Oct/Nov 2010) I found myself handicapped by my lack of Spanish. It was easier after Merida when I hooked up with some multi-lingual pilgrims, but that was just good fortune. I think a good grasp of Spanglish will do, but time spent improving it in the months before you go won't be wasted!
Cheers, tom

 

[Deleted member 43780]

Stayed in Hotel Nova Roma in Merida. Not a bad place. Price was not bad.

Take a day off and see sights in Merida.

 

[LTfit]

Most has been said but I disagree with a few comments:
1) Those robberies were a few years ago and I understand that they were caught. I am a single woman and have walked these stages 3x.
2) I've stayed in Triana Backpackers in Triana (right off the Camino) also 3x to my satisfaction.

I do agree with the water issue but then again I walked 2x in June/July. I always had 3 liters with me as temperatures were >30 c. October/November will be cooler.

The fall is a wonderful time to walk. One year I did Salamanca - Santiago via Orense (the Sanabrés) in Nctober/November and we were given gifts of apples and chestnuts along the way.

I don't carry a guide but plan my stages with www.gronze.com or even beter www.godesalco.com. Use the Planificador to determine the km you wish to walk. The albergue info is also there.

Good luck and Buen Camino!

 

[AlanSykes]

3. Any must stay at Albergues or places to check out when I'm on the way?

I would say the two to stay at, whether you're religious or not, are the ones at Alcuéscar and Fuenterroble de Salvatierra. The latter is run by Don Blas, the parish priest who is probably about 50% or more responsible for the fact that the VdlP exists again, and the (monastic) former is an hour's walk from the serenely beautiful and rare visigothic church of Santa Lucía de Trampal, well worth the slight detour.

Anybody around this autumn? - hoping to get to Seville from the Vía Serrana and start the VdlP about October 20-24th.

 

[sharon w]

Yes, I recommend Don Blas's albergue at Fuenterroble de Salvaterra. He led mass the evening we were there. He was extremely welcoming and tried to talk a little in each of our languages.

 

[Deleted member 43780]

Seems to be mixed breed about Trianna Backpackers in Seville.

Read back posts regarding this place.

I did not get any sleep there. Seemed to be party city. Loud talking, music, drunks all night. Did not quite down until at least 3 or 4 in the morning.

Others have commented about the same.

Then a few others come on and say it was ok.

Guess it is what crowd is staying there.

I DO NOT recommend the place. I will NOT stay there again.

Do as you like.

This place is not your typical PEREGRINO(A) place.

It was full of young party types.

There were no other walkers staying there when I was there.

 

[Deleted member 43780]

Most has been said but I disagree with a few comments:
1) Those robberies were a few years ago and I understand that they were caught. I am a single woman and have walked these stages 3x.
2) I've stayed in Triana Backpackers in Triana (right off the Camino) also 3x to my satisfaction.

I do agree with the water issue but then again I walked 2x in June/July. I always had 3 liters with me as temperatures were >30 c. October/November will be cooler.

The fall is a wonderful time to walk. One year I did Salamanca - Santiago via Orense (the Sanabrés) in Nctober/November and we were given gifts of apples and chestnuts along the way.

I don't carry a guide but plan my stages with www.gronze.com or even beter www.godesalco.com. Use the Planificador to determine the km you wish to walk. The albergue info is also there.

Good luck and Buen Camino!

Glad you enjoyed Trianna Backpackers in Seville.

I DO NOT recommend it. Horrible stay there.

But seems some like it and some don't. Each to their own.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

When you are staying in an albergue that is not for pilgrims only, it is normal that it be also visited by uni kids and other young people visiting town for a bit of fun. Lived through it in Barcelona and Bilbao.

This being said, I stayed at Triana this spring and the location is excellent, walking distance (tourist walking diatance that is ) from the bus station, the cathedral and main site seeing spots, a Dia 300 meters away, and in a fun artsy neighbourhood, super close to the Sevilla Pilgrim Association and the Camino.

It also has a good number of individual bathrooms, including toilet, shower, sink, a small kitchen, roof top terrace and common room. My bedroom only had a window that opened onto the atrium, so not ideal for noise and ventilation, but there was an AC unit. Bed fully made.

For 15€ one cannot ask for much more in one of the most touristic cities in Europe.

When coming back from walking I found a single room also in a good location, with shared accomodations for the floor. It was so yuky I passed on showering upon arrival and the next morning before flying home. 45€ on Booking. The best price I could find 3 hours before checking in. Triana was fully booked.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Treat yourself to a cheap hotel in Seville; I enjoyed Hostal Pacos.
Albergues - I agree with all the positives about Fuenterroble. And would also recommend Rionegro albergue, and not to be missed, Albergueria.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Seems to be mixed breed about Trianna Backpackers in Seville.

Yes and no, Marty. I stayed the night there in early June, a Friday. I had a room fronting Rodrigo de Triana. There was a loud street party going on in the plaza just down the street, live band and all the bars open until 2am. I was jet-lagged, having just arrived from Australia, and thought why not. Had a wonderful time among the locals and had no trouble sleeping after that.
And Triana forwarded my suitcase to my hotel in Santiago for 25E.

 

[LTfit]

Glad you enjoyed Trianna Backpackers in Seville.

I DO NOT recommend it. Horrible stay there.

But seems some like it and some don't. Each to their own.

Indeed, that is why I (almost) never read comments about recommendations. Other pilgrims were in fact in my room. One I walked with for 2 weeks and over the past three years has joined me on 4 other Caminos!

 

[Peregrinopaul]

And I'd like to share my experience at Rionegro this year.
I had just rolled in after a long day on the bike. The only accommodation was the excellent albergue. When I went in, there was a group of pilgrims sitting around the table who turned out to be Irish. It was very late in the day and I was famished. When I asked where I could get some food, they all enthusiastically pointed in unison, indicating a restaurant directly across the road. Off I went and I was greeted by the owner, a lady, who sat me down at one of the 20 or so empty tables. She then explained, I think, that the cook had gone home, but she'd get him back, and proceeded to do just that over her mobile phone. I didn't think that this was very promising, but I ordered a vino tinto, and we waited...

In rushed this quite extraordinary man, looking a bit like a leprechaun, in bright green shorts and extravagant Hawaiian shirt, with a wild mop of unruly hair. After a few words with the lady, he made an immediate start on my Menu del Dia, in full view of me at the far end of the restaurant. I was given delicious soup, which only took a few minutes to reheat, then he began the main course and I realised he was putting on a real performance for my benefit. An operatic music cd was playing, and he began to sing along in a very passable, loud tenor voice while he prepared the main course. This involved hilarious theatrical flourishes as though he were a magician performing a trick. The sliced pork with potatoes and vegetables was very much to my taste, and when I requested a refill of vino tinto, he produced a large carafe of the stuff, complete with a blue ribbon tied around it. A delicious sweet and coffee followed, and I indicated that I'd like to sit outside and have a smoke. He beamed at this, and insisted on carrying both the coffee, and still virtually-full carafe of wine to a table in the street, opposite the albergue, where he proceeded to sit opposite me, produced his own pack and offered me one. At this point we were joined by the Irish contingent, who must have been watching the antics from the albergue. We all, including the chef, polished off the wine, followed by shots of whiskey from a large flask which he produced, (again with a flourish) from his pocket. He chatted amiably in an accent that completely defeated all of us, but that didn't seem to matter. Come 11pm, I thought it time to call a halt, and asked for la cuenta. "Diez" says he, and he cleared the table, locked up the restaurant, and wandered off up the street. Apparently the washing up could wait.

 

[santiago_67]

Dear fellow pilgrims,

I walked the Camino Frances five years ago, and I will be walking the via de la plata starting end of Sep / early Oct from Seville. It's part of a larger sabbatical I have decided to take from work - healthy to do every now and then to take stock of life (Plus the Camino has been calling me back over the past 5 years!). I have a few questions for you lovely folk on the forum that I'm hoping will help me with my final preparations over the next two months before I get there!

Just a few background notes - I'm a 33 year old male from Australia with a clean bill of health, and of average fitness. I meditate regularly, do yoga a few times a week, and have just started getting into indoor rock climbing. I love to walk -though I haven't trained as much as yet for the walk physically. I'm ready mentally for it. Hoping to get a few days of walking in before I leave in the next two months to warm up the muscles. In terms of the Camino though I found when I walked the Camino Frances last time it was more of a mental endurance challenge for me. Listening to your body and taking rest days when required helped me manage it physically. This being said I appreciate the Via De La Plata is a very different walk to the Camino Frances so your thoughts on what it is like at the moment would be great! Questions below:

1. I understand the Via De La Plata is more isolated than the Camino Frances with more frequent longer stretches between towns. I have most of my gear from the Camino Frances still but I was going to upgrade my water bladder to three litres, and aim to have enough space in my bag that if I need to stock up on food for two days I can. Any other must have items of gear you would recommend I should get that might not be obvious?

2. How well supported is the Via de la Plata these days? I have a guide book in English by Gerald Kelly (http://www.viadelaplataguide.net/) and I intend to go through that and figure out a rough walking itinerary. Are there any particular sections of the track that are quite isolated with little in the way of towns to stay overnight with food provisions that I should be aware of?

3. Any must stay at Albergues or places to check out when I'm on the way?

4. I will be walking the whole 1000 kilometres. I'll be going the way that misses the Camino Frances. Just generally are there any pearls of wisdom previous people who have been on the walk have found useful that they could impart with me as part of my preparation?

5. I will have a bit of extra luggage with me when I fly in as I'll be doing a few touristy things in Madrid and Seville before I start.... I'll have a small case in addition to my Camino backpack and gear. I was hoping to post the case and its contents to Santiago to pick up when I arrive... do you know if the post offices in Spain would let me post a small suitcase with my stuff?? Or is there a better services I should use?

6. I have a basic understanding of Spanish but it's not amazing. I still have two months to practice it so hopefully I'll be up in a better state with that. Curious though - how easy is it to get around with Spanglish on that walk? What are the main challenges I might face with the limited Spanish?

Thanks and buen camino!

Tristan

Hi Tristan, I highly recommend a casa rural in Granja de Moreruela called Casa del Tio Quico. Laundry, kitchen, interior patio and beautiful rooms. Walk out the door to your left is the Camino Sanabres. Buen Camino!

 

[Deleted member 43780]

Treat yourself to a cheap hotel in Seville; I enjoyed Hostal Pacos.
Albergues - I agree with all the positives about Fuenterroble. And would also recommend Rionegro albergue, and not to be missed, Albergueria.

Agree with you about Hostal Pacos. Stayed there. Liked it.
There are many good places to stay in Seville.

 

[BlackKnight84]

Hello everyone,

Thank you so much for your well considered responses. I appreciate the time you took to share this information with me. All incredibly useful! You've just created the core with advice and links for my Camino preparation! Thank you again.

Tristan

 

[obinjatoo]

Dear fellow pilgrims,

I walked the Camino Frances five years ago, and I will be walking the via de la plata starting end of Sep / early Oct from Seville. It's part of a larger sabbatical I have decided to take from work - healthy to do every now and then to take stock of life (Plus the Camino has been calling me back over the past 5 years!). I have a few questions for you lovely folk on the forum that I'm hoping will help me with my final preparations over the next two months before I get there!

Just a few background notes - I'm a 33 year old male from Australia with a clean bill of health, and of average fitness. I meditate regularly, do yoga a few times a week, and have just started getting into indoor rock climbing. I love to walk -though I haven't trained as much as yet for the walk physically. I'm ready mentally for it. Hoping to get a few days of walking in before I leave in the next two months to warm up the muscles. In terms of the Camino though I found when I walked the Camino Frances last time it was more of a mental endurance challenge for me. Listening to your body and taking rest days when required helped me manage it physically. This being said I appreciate the Via De La Plata is a very different walk to the Camino Frances so your thoughts on what it is like at the moment would be great! Questions below:

1. I understand the Via De La Plata is more isolated than the Camino Frances with more frequent longer stretches between towns. I have most of my gear from the Camino Frances still but I was going to upgrade my water bladder to three litres, and aim to have enough space in my bag that if I need to stock up on food for two days I can. Any other must have items of gear you would recommend I should get that might not be obvious?

2. How well supported is the Via de la Plata these days? I have a guide book in English by Gerald Kelly (http://www.viadelaplataguide.net/) and I intend to go through that and figure out a rough walking itinerary. Are there any particular sections of the track that are quite isolated with little in the way of towns to stay overnight with food provisions that I should be aware of?

3. Any must stay at Albergues or places to check out when I'm on the way?

4. I will be walking the whole 1000 kilometres. I'll be going the way that misses the Camino Frances. Just generally are there any pearls of wisdom previous people who have been on the walk have found useful that they could impart with me as part of my preparation?

5. I will have a bit of extra luggage with me when I fly in as I'll be doing a few touristy things in Madrid and Seville before I start.... I'll have a small case in addition to my Camino backpack and gear. I was hoping to post the case and its contents to Santiago to pick up when I arrive... do you know if the post offices in Spain would let me post a small suitcase with my stuff?? Or is there a better services I should use?

6. I have a basic understanding of Spanish but it's not amazing. I still have two months to practice it so hopefully I'll be up in a better state with that. Curious though - how easy is it to get around with Spanglish on that walk? What are the main challenges I might face with the limited Spanish?

Thanks and buen camino!

Tristan

Dress warm, bring rain gear and a warm sleeping bag. It gets cold as you go north.

 

[Old Gringo]

Hi

This is our blog from waking it 2015, You might find it helpful.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ta-and-the-camino-sanabres.41690/#post-428141

 

[hel&scott]

We loved it, Good infrastructure, great history, yes it is isolated with long stretches but that is the appeal. October is when the weather turns so good wet weather gear and wrap up for the cold. Carry plenty of water as advised.