LIVE from the Camino Walking the Torres Now, Tips for new starters! - May 2023

[mick53]

I have asked a few questions lately about the Torres. Thanks to all those who replied with useful information.

So now that Carol and I have started (yesterday Saturday May 6th) I thought I would do some regular posts but maybe not quite daily.

I will assume people have the link to the official site OS (see below) and will try to compliment, update, comment on what is there.

Camino Torres — Camino Torres - Web Oficial

caminosantiago.usal.es

I am using Organic Maps and Alltrails (note OS maps links to Alltrails) for navigation and of course the track signs (more on this in a later post).

Day 1a- Salamanca to Rad
The OS= Official Site says

"Previous physical preparation before starting the Camino Torres is necessary since the distance to be covered in this first stage is very high, and there is no possibility of an intermediate stop. From Salamanca to Robliza de Cojos there is no service, nor is it possible to get water or food...."

Not quite correct, you can stay at La Rab as we did, just 2.3km off the track on the N620 splitting the 32km first section Into 18 from Salamanca and 20 the next day to Robliza de Cojos. This allows a leisurely start from Salamanca, a chance to see the sights with no one around. We used booking.com to book the Hotel Rad, but ring if you speak Spanish as they advertise €40 for a room on their sign on the N620. Despite some negative comments we found the Rab be a great hotel, good but pricey meals, tapas great and well priced, clean, friendly staff, comfortable rooms, and great red wine. Recommended!
Left Salamanca after 9 am. At 9.6km the kiosk in Pedasolana was open with food and drinks. Great little Bar there opened at 11 am.

Day1b - Rab to Robliza de Cojos, 20km
Next Post!

 

[peregrina2000]

I thought I would do some regular posts but maybe not quite daily.

Oh, great, there hasn’t been a live Torres thread in quite a while! Hope you have a wonderful walk.

Like you, when I walked the Torres in 2022, I was reluctant to start out with a 34 km day. In large part that was because my 2021 camino had ended with a hamstring injury in Arzua, and after many months of PT I wanted to start out carefully.

I am sure that La Rad is a perfectly fine place to stay, but I got there very early and decided that spending the afternoon in Salamanca would be more fun. So I got a cab back and then cabbed out the next day. I know that’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but I had a wonderful afternoon in Salamanca, enhanced by the fact that it was fiestas of the Virgen de la Vega, and there were processions, fireworks, “medieval” fairs, lots of street food, lots of flowers, oh it was glorious!

Since I walked in September, I had none of the many water amenities (aka, streams) that others like @Magwood reported. I hope it goes very well for you, those days on the cañada are just wonderful! Buen camino to both of you.

P.s. I added the “live from the camino” prefix to your thread. Not intending to put any pressure on you to post more often (that would be hypocritical of me since I never posted a live thread last year), but having that as a flag is good for people who want to focus on reading about people who are actually there now.

 

[mick53]

Day 1b - Rab to Robliza de Cojos

This day takes us through beautiful Dehesa country again with its easy walking.

As you get to the turnoff to the town there is a bike sign saying straight on ( to bypass the town) but no Indication for walkers. It's a 5 way junction, take 3rd left, ( check your navigation App). There is a sign on the correct track with an arrow but the sign is facing the wrong way. Poor signage around the town generally.

The best way to get the key for the Albergue seems to be to go direct to 1 Calle de CALZADA, a yellow corner house up the Church end of town. We went to the Bar at the Sports Ground and they rang the Mayor for us.

There is no marking in the town to direct you to the Albergue. It is at the corner of Calle de Ronda and Calle Escultor Venancio Blanco, a white house with a faint A on the side and a yellow Corres post box beside the front door. It is up near the Church.

When we were there the Albergue had a room with 2 beds (1 blanket only!), and nothing for sleeping in either the 'classroom' (also used for elections) or the library/ storeroom.

It has space but was only fitted out for 2 people! Hopefully they will increase the sleeping facilities before the first wave of walkers arrive. The Visitors book shows 4 people for May including us, 8 in April and about 22 so far this year .... a gem of a Camino waiting to be discovered.

The bar has good food for lunch and dinner and friendly people but is normally not open in time for breakfast/desajuno.

An interesting friendly town but with limited sleeping facilities at present

Mick53


View attachment 146493

 

[peregrina2000]

Hopefully they will increase the sleeping facilities before the first wave of walkers arrive.

As far as I know, there has never been a wave of walkers on the Torres. I didn’t meet one other pilgrim. Maybe Maggie can count as a wave, since there were three of them walking together, but I don’t think they met anyone either. Apparently the addition of the two beds was a big recent improvement. I walked down to the highway to the highway stop restaurant, owned by two people from the village, I was told. So I felt like I was supporting the locals when I did that. Nothing else was open for me, so you’re lucky to have found the bar!

 

[mick53]

Day 1b - Rab to Robliza de Cojos

This day takes us through beautiful Dehesa country again with its easy walking.

As you get to the turnoff to the town there is a bike sign saying straight on ( to bypass the town) but no Indication for walkers. It's a 5 way junction, take 3rd left, ( check your navigation App). There is a sign on the correct track with an arrow but the sign is facing the wrong way. Poor signage around the town generally.

The best way to get the key for the Albergue seems to be to go direct to 1 Calle de CALZADA, a yellow corner house up the Church end of town. We went to the Bar at the Sports Ground and they rang the Mayor for us.

There is no marking in the town to direct you to the Albergue. It is at the corner of Calle de Ronda and Calle Escultor Venancio Blanco, a white house with a faint A on the side and a yellow Corres post box beside the front door. It is up near the Church.

When we were there the Albergue had a room with 2 beds (1 blanket only!), and nothing for sleeping in either the 'classroom' (also used for elections) or the library/ storeroom.

It has space but was only fitted out for 2 people! Hopefully they will increase the sleeping facilities before the first wave of walkers arrive. The Visitors book shows 4 people for May including us, 8 in April and about 22 so far this year .... a gem of a Camino waiting to be discovered.

The bar has good food for lunch and dinner and friendly people but is normally not open in time for breakfast/desajuno.

An interesting friendly town but with limited sleeping facilities at present

Mick53


View attachment 146493View attachment 146494View attachment 146544

 

[mick53]

Day 2 - Robliza de Cojas to San Muñoz

More beautiful Dehesa although at times it resembled the Meseta of CF fame.
Some confusing signage pointing you back the way you came but otherwise ok.
Came across a Spanish man riding a beautiful horse which was a highlight.

As we headed into San Muñoz looking for Bar Recreo (now closed) we were spotted by some locals who explained that a Ukrainian family now lived at the Albergue so no need to get a key, just knock and they would let us in. Which we did.

We were honoured to share the Albergue with the Ukrainian family who have been here for some time now. Visitors book shows about 16 people including us in 2023.

I would recommend continuing to check with Thomas or neighbours at first 2 houses on left as you turn into Calle Segovia heading to Bar Chan. The Ukrainian family may be away and it's a long walk to/from the Albergue.

The Albergue is in the same building as the Medical Centre ( on RHS) and is now the 2nd last building on the left on Calle Calzada up the far end if town

Bar Jan is now the centre of action in the town, had a lovely lunch/dinner and will head back there tonight. No shops in town just visiting vans.

 

[Magwood]

Maybe Maggie can count as a wave, since there were three of them walking together, but I don’t think they met anyone either.

As a group of four we were a virtual tsunami until Marilyn left at Moimenta. We didn’t see any other pilgrims until we reached Ponte de Lima.

 

[peregrina2000]

As we headed into San Muñoz looking for Bar Recreo (now closed)

Oh, no, this bar is closed??? The mayor explained to me that it had been part of her strategy to get the school reopened. They got a family from Salamanca who was living in Caritas, and they moved to Muños with their children. Since you need six children for the school to be open, I think, those children, plus the Ukranian boy, added to the two or three in the village and the school was set to open in September.

But very good news that there is still a bar in town!

When I stayed there in September, the husband of the family was off working the grape harvest and it was just the mom and her son. We had some really nice/sad conversations via google translate, which she is quite good at. I didn’t bombard her with questions, just let her start to talk and see where the conversation went. At the time, she was particuarly worried about her mom, who had refused to leave her home in Kherson. I hope she is ok.

This was a pretty impactful day for me, sauntering in to the temporary home of people who had left their home country with nothing and were determined to make a new life for their son. I kept thinking of my own grandkids, many around the age of this little boy. I have a picture of him with his mom that brings tears to my eyes every time I look at it, but I don’t think I should post it.

Sorry to ramble on, but that is nothing new for me!

 

[mick53]

Oh, no, this bar is closed??? The mayor explained to me that it had been part of her strategy to get the school reopened. They got a family from Salamanca who was living in Caritas, and they moved to Muños with their children. Since you need six children for the school to be open, I think, those children, plus the Ukranian boy, added to the two or three in the village and the school was set to open in September.

But very good news that there is still a bar in town!

When I stayed there in September, the husband of the family was off working the grape harvest and it was just the mom and her son. We had some really nice/sad conversations via google translate, which she is quite good at. I didn’t bombard her with questions, just let her start to talk and see where the conversation went. At the time, she was particuarly worried about her mom, who had refused to leave her home in Kherson. I hope she is ok.

This was a pretty impactful day for me, sauntering in to the temporary home of people who had left their home country with nothing and were determined to make a new life for their son. I kept thinking of my own grandkids, many around the age of this little boy. I have a picture of him with his mom that brings tears to my eyes every time I look at it, but I don’t think I should post it.

Sorry to ramble on, but that is nothing new for me!

yes, I found it hard to decide what to say or ask. Makes one feel very luck with life. Family looked 'happy' whe we were there.

 

[mick53]

Day 2 - Robliza de Cojas to San Muñoz

More beautiful Dehesa although at times it resembled the Meseta of CF fame.
Some confusing signage pointing you back the way you came but otherwise ok.
Came across a Spanish man riding a beautiful horse which was a highlight.

As we headed into San Muñoz looking for Bar Recreo (now closed) we were spotted by some locals who explained that a Ukrainian family now lived at the Albergue so no need to get a key, just knock and they would let us in. Which we did.

We were honoured to share the Albergue with the Ukrainian family who have been here for some time now. Visitors book shows about 16 people including us in 2023.

I would recommend continuing to check with Thomas or neighbours at first 2 houses on left as you turn into Calle Segovia heading to Bar Chan. The Ukrainian family may be away and it's a long walk to/from the Albergue.

The Albergue is in the same building as the Medical Centre ( on RHS) and is now the 2nd last building on the left on Calle Calzada up the far end if town

Bar Jan is now the centre of action in the town, had a lovely lunch/dinner and will head back there tonight. No shops in town just visiting vans.View attachment 146548View attachment 146549

Day 3- - San Mañoz to Alba de Yeltes 26km

A great walking day, reasonable signage but you really need a path to follow on your favourite App. Even on the Cañada (stock routes) it changes directions and when it is well covered by vegetation it has its own road/ path network that can lead you astray. Narrower more beautiful paths and interesting walking.

The 3 Water Crossings
1. Rio Carrollas. Very steep slippery descent, then had to wade across, narrowest left of the main crossing, about 400mm deep, muddy approaches. Our trail runners dry out quickly.
There is an optional long way around shown on the Official Website.
2. At about 10km from start, probably Arroya de la Fresneda, a shallow stream with stepping stones just to the right about 100ft.
3. Rio Yeltes. We were disappointed it was dry where the track crossed it!. A few hundred meters to the right there was a lot of water.
When you cross the Rio Yeltes there are no signs, so just head for the large blue gate with big yellow arrows on its 2 posts.

The Albergue is looked after by Aurora +34 618289 544. we used What'sApp to let her know the day before that we were coming and just before we arrived.

It is in an old school building with 5 beds crammed into a room behind the classroom, excellent quilts on all beds, no bunks! Donativo.
When we got there we met our first walker for the Torres who was spending a few days recovering from the Flu. Aurora let us move 2 mattresses into the classroom for the night.

Bar de Goya closed, Bar Nilo open just after the Albergue as you head through town. Very friendly to Peligrinos, lady made a hot lunch for us and a Bocadillo for the next day.

A great day!

 

[mick53]

Day 3- - San Mañoz to Alba de Yeltes 26km

A great walking day, reasonable signage but you really need a path to follow on your favourite App. Even on the Cañada (stock routes) it changes directions and when it is well covered by vegetation it has its own road/ path network that can lead you astray. Narrower more beautiful paths and interesting walking.

The 3 Water Crossings
1. Rio Carrollas. Very steep slippery descent, then had to wade across, narrowest left of the main crossing, about 400mm deep, muddy approaches. Our trail runners dry out quickly.
There is an optional long way around shown on the Official Website.
2. At about 10km from start, probably Arroya de la Fresneda, a shallow stream with stepping stones just to the right about 100ft.
3. Rio Yeltes. We were disappointed it was dry where the track crossed it!. A few hundred meters to the right there was a lot of water.
When you cross the Rio Yeltes there are no signs, so just head for the large blue gate with big yellow arrows on its 2 posts.

The Albergue is looked after by Aurora +34 618289 544. we used What'sApp to let her know the day before that we were coming and just before we arrived.

It is in an old school building with 5 beds crammed into a room behind the classroom, excellent quilts on all beds, no bunks! Donativo.
When we got there we met our first walker for the Torres who was spending a few days recovering from the Flu. Aurora let us move 2 mattresses into the classroom for the night.

Bar de Goya closed, Bar Nilo open just after the Albergue as you head through town. Very friendly to Peligrinos, lady made a hot lunch for us and a Bocadillo for the next day.

A great day!View attachment 146819View attachment 146820View attachment 146821View attachment 146822View attachment 146823View attachment 146824

Day 4 - Alba de Yeltes to Cuidad de Rodrigo

After the road walk to Bocacara the walking improves dramatically. The cork oak trees don't last long, note the stripping of the bark.

Once again the signage is basic and there are times you will need your Navigation App.

Official Website covers the day very well.

We prefer a room where possible and Cuidad Rodrigo has many accomodation choice, so I can't offer any advice on the Albergues.

 

[mick53]

Day 4 - Alba de Yeltes to Cuidad de Rodrigo

After the road walk to Bocacara the walking improves dramatically. The cork oak trees don't last long, note the stripping of the bark.

Once again the signage is basic and there are times you will need your Navigation App.

Official Website covers the day very well.

We prefer a room where possible and Cuidad Rodrigo has many accomodation choice, so I can't offer any advice on the Albergues.View attachment 146829View attachment 146830View attachment 146831View attachment 146832View attachment 146833View attachment 146834

 

[mick53]

Day 4 - Alba de Yeltes to Cuidad de Rodrigo

After the road walk to Bocacara the walking improves dramatically. The cork oak trees don't last long, note the stripping of the bark.

Once again the signage is basic and there are times you will need your Navigation App.

Official Website covers the day very well.

We prefer a room where possible and Cuidad Rodrigo has many accomodation choice, so I can't offer any advice on the Albergues.View attachment 146829View attachment 146830View attachment 146831View attachment 146832View attachment 146833View attachment 146834

 

[mick53]

Day 5 Cuidad Rodrigo to Abla de Obispo 30km

After the 15km march on the road to Gelligos de Argañan the walking, track and scenery become very enjoyable. No Bar open early in Gelligos, Bar el Maño closed, we got water at the Council offices.

Obispo has the best Albergue so far, purpose built with 3 rooms totalling 10 beds, with the option of towels and blankets. Also air-conditioned, 4 showers and 2 toilets. Walker friendly town, good shop for supplies, Bar in the Plaza Mayor still open, but the rest are closed. Contact Aurora on +34 618 289544 (ring or WhatsApp) to book a bed and also to let her know on the day when you will arrive.

Navigation Dramas:
Once again the necessity of having an App with an electronic path to follow was reinforced.

After La Alameda de Gardón the walking is particularly beautiful and feels remote. After a lovely relaxing stretch with a stream on your left, cattle wandering everywhere, and Dehesa Oak trees on the right you come to a junction with a road coming in from your left and 2 gates in front of you, again no signs. Your path is the gate facing you, leading into the edge of a field completely overgrown for over a km. It has not improved since Maggie's posts in 2018

About 1.3 km before Castillejo de Dos Casas you emerge from your overgrown track onto a dirt road that has just crossed the stream and you follow it around for nearly 300m as it starts to head uphill. But your track continues along the left bank of the stream with no clear start point. Without checking your path on the App you would probably head up hill like we started to. Needless to say there are no signs!

Day 6 Abla de Obispo to Almeida 12km

Today was effectively a rest day getting to Almeida at 9:30am Portugese time, leaving plenty of time to explore the historic city.

There was a bar open early in Vale de Mula on the left just before the track turns right off the EM 573 as you leave the town. We were there about 7am Portugese time or 8am Spanish time.

Almeida has no Albergue, with walkers on a budget staying in basic accomodation outside the old city.

No problems with signage or water Crossings today.

 

[mick53]

Day 5 Cuidad Rodrigo to Abla de Obispo 30km

After the 15km march on the road to Gelligos de Argañan the walking, track and scenery become very enjoyable. No Bar open early in Gelligos, Bar el Maño closed, we got water at the Council offices.

Obispo has the best Albergue so far, purpose built with 3 rooms totalling 10 beds, with the option of towels and blankets. Also air-conditioned, 4 showers and 2 toilets. Walker friendly town, good shop for supplies, Bar in the Plaza Mayor still open, but the rest are closed. Contact Aurora on +34 618 289544 (ring or WhatsApp) to book a bed and also to let her know on the day when you will arrive.

Navigation Dramas:
Once again the necessity of having an App with an electronic path to follow was reinforced.

After La Alameda de Gardón the walking is particularly beautiful and feels remote. After a lovely relaxing stretch with a stream on your left, cattle wandering everywhere, and Dehesa Oak trees on the right you come to a junction with a road coming in from your left and 2 gates in front of you, again no signs. Your path is the gate facing you, leading into the edge of a field completely overgrown for over a km. It has not improved since Maggie's posts in 2018

About 1.3 km before Castillejo de Dos Casas you emerge from your overgrown track onto a dirt road that has just crossed the stream and you follow it around for nearly 300m as it starts to head uphill. But your track continues along the left bank of the stream with no clear start point. Without checking your path on the App you would probably head up hill like we started to. Needless to say there are no signs!

Day 6 Abla de Obispo to Almeida 12km

Today was effectively a rest day getting to Almeida at 9:30am Portugese time, leaving plenty of time to explore the historic city.

There was a bar open early in Vale de Mula on the left just before the track turns right off the EM 573 as you leave the town. We were there about 7am Portugese time orView attachment 147147 8am Spanish time.

Almeida has no Albergue, with walkers on a budget staying in basic accomodation outside the old city.

No problems with signage or water Crossings today.View attachment 147141View attachment 147142View attachment 147144View attachment 147145View attachment 147146

Day 7 Almeida to Pinhel 22km

No Albergues planned till the end of our Torres at Braga, we are staying in private rooms.

Just 600m after Pereiro which has the famous Bar Juliete their is a confusing T Junction. The walkers signs clearly say to go left but the bike sign and both my electronic paths including that from the official Website say go right. My Open Street Maps did not show how turning left would get us to Pinhel so we turned right. A nervous walk not being sure what might go wrong but worked well. Another signage failure.

On approaching Pinhel after crossing the EN221 it looks like a mess, see Photo. You need to find the narrow path just a meter off the road and follow it to the right to a stone wall. Hidden under a shrub on the wall is the arrow to turn left up the hill on the narrow path. Straight into town and the first bar.

Pinhel is spectacular, make sure you see the castle with its towers.

 

[mick53]

Day 7 Almeida to Pinhel 22km

No Albergues planned till the end of our Torres at Braga, we are staying in private rooms.

Just 600m after Pereiro which has the famous Bar Juliete their is a confusing T Junction. The walkers signs clearly say to go left but the bike sign and both my electronic paths including that from theView attachment 147421View attachment 147422View attachment 147423View attachment 147424View attachment 147425 official Website say go right. My Open Street Maps did not show how turning left would get us to Pinhel so we turned right. A nervous walk not being sure what might go wrong but worked well. Another signage failure.

On approaching Pinhel after crossing the EN221 it looks like a mess, see Photo. You need to find the narrow path just a meter off the road and follow it to the right to a stone wall. Hidden under a shrub on the wall is the arrow to turn left up the hill on the narrow path. Straight into town and the first bar.

Pinhel is spectacular, make sure you see the castle with its towers.

Day 14- Arrived in Braga!!
I have got behind on my daily posts so a quick update, will continue posts when I have time .

Arrived in Braga on May 22, this is the end of our Torres. Tomorrow we start the Geira y Arrieiros.

14 days and we only met one Pilgrim!!! A
solitary walk, not one for people who want some company.

I will put some updates in the Day 1 post shortly re the solitary nature of this walk and the need to be independent of the signs or lack thereof

 

[mick53]

Day 7 Almeida to Pinhel 22km

No Albergues planned till the end of our Torres at Braga, we are staying in private rooms.

Just 600m after Pereiro which has the famous Bar Juliete their is a confusing T Junction. The walkers signs clearly say to go left but the bike sign and both my electronic paths including that from theView attachment 147421View attachment 147422View attachment 147423View attachment 147424View attachment 147425 official Website say go right. My Open Street Maps did not show how turning left would get us to Pinhel so we turned right. A nervous walk not being sure what might go wrong but worked well. Another signage failure.

On approaching Pinhel after crossing the EN221 it looks like a mess, see Photo. You need to find the narrow path just a meter off the road and follow it to the right to a stone wall. Hidden under a shrub on the wall is the arrow to turn left up the hill on the narrow path. Straight into town and the first bar.

Pinhel is spectacular, make sure you see the castle with its towers.

Day 8 Pinhel to Trancoso 30km

Another great walking day, beautiful scenery, flowers, vines but not easy, long day with lots of climbing

Three Navigation Issues today.
1. About 15km from Trancoso you cross a lovely bridge over the Rio Massueime. About 340m later while enjoying the lovely river on your left and the track continuing ahead you pass a wall on the left heading uphill. If you happen to turn around you will see an arrow pointing up a steep hill! About 2.5 km later this track that follows a fence line, rejoins the official e-path. See my App screenprint for the trail of purple dots.

So what happens if you miss this turn? No idea! and of course no effective signage anywhere nearby.

2. Having rejoined the path you come to a junction path that looks like a 3 way but is actually a 4 way with the correct path forward being hidden unless you happen to turn left for 2-3 metres. See red dots, your approach is from the bottom in the screenprint. Easy to take the visible right side track, unless looking at your App you would not notice your error. Again no signs.

3. After crossing the EN 102 the tracks up to the Trancoso are often very overgrown, very steep and also rocky, so use your App to assess the bitumen road options!

We got to Trancoso late and worn out so did not have time to explore the old city. Pity.

So, if you decide to enjoy the beauty and adventure of this walk, take an App loaded with the e-path and learn how to use it, plus take a Powerbank for good measure

 

[mick53]

Day 8 Pinhel to Trancoso 30km

Another great walking day, beautiful scenery, flowers, vines but not easy, long day with lots of climbing

Three Navigation Issues today.
1. About 15km from Trancoso you cross a lovely bridge over the Rio Massueime. About 340m later while enjoying the lovely river on your left and the track continuing ahead you pass a wall on the left heading uphill. If you happen to turn around you will see an arrow pointing up a steep hill! About 2.5 km later this track that follows a fence line, rejoins the official e-path. See my App screenprint for the trail of purple dots.

So what happens if you miss this turn? No idea! and of course no effective signage anywhere nearby.

2. Having rejoined the path you come to a junction path that looks like a 3 way but is actually a 4 way with the correct path forward being hidden unless you happen to turn left for 2-3 metres. See red dots, your approach is from the bottom in the screenprint. Easy to take the visible right side track, unless looking at your App you would not notice your error. Again no signs.

3. After crossing the EN 102 the tracks up to the Trancoso are often very overgrown, very steep and also rocky, so use your App to assess the bitumen road options!

We got to Trancoso late and worn out so did not have time to explore the old city. Pity.

So, if you decide to enjoy the beauty and adventure of this walk, take an App loaded with the e-path and learn how to use it, plus take a Powerbank for good measureView attachment 147712View attachment 147713View attachment 147714

Day 9 Transco to Sernancelhi 29km

For a time today it seemed that a walker had done the signs for walkers, probably the best signage so far. But we still needed our App.

No services at Ponte do Abade. Maggie's resteraunt is over a km away on a main road. A kind old lady gave us some water at a bread shop further up on the RHS after you cross the bridge.

I don't normally comment on where to get dinner, but there are few choices at the end of the day and Restraunt Flora is highly recommended. A la Carte and an excellent €15 Menu del Dia.

Beautiful walking today.

Still only that 1 sick walker!

 

[tarredon]

Day 9 Transco to Sernancelhi 29km

For a time today it seemed that a walker had done the signs for walkers, probably the best signage so far. But we still needed our App.

No services at Ponte do Abade. Maggie's resteraunt is over a km away on a main road. A kind old lady gave us some water at a bread shop further up on the RHS after you cross the bridge.

I don't normally comment on where to get dinner, but there are few choices at the end of the day and Restraunt Flora is highly recommended. A la Carte and an excellent €15 Menu del Dia.

Beautiful walking today.View attachment 147723View attachment 147724

Still only that 1 sick walker!

Have you passed into Portugal yet, or still in Spain?
I'm thankful for your (almost) daily descriptions - I plan to do this route next year, so it should come in handy!

 

[RodlaRob]

Day 8 Pinhel to Trancoso 30km

Another great walking day, beautiful scenery, flowers, vines but not easy, long day with lots of

The old stone trail up the hill climbing into Trancoso is a killer at the end of a long stage!
I never had the energy to explore either but accommodation at Dom Dinis was excellent & they pointed me in the direction of a soul boosting restaurant!

 

[mick53]

Have you passed into Portugal yet, or still in Spain?
I'm thankful for your (almost) daily descriptions - I plan to do this route next year, so it should come in handy!

I finished at Braga and am now on Day6 of the Geira. Will finish my Torres posts once Geira done anc update Day1.

Did not see day more walkers on Torres a solitary walk!

 

[tarredon]

I finished at Braga and am now on Day6 of the Geira. Will finish my Torres posts once Geira done anc update Day1.

Did not see day more walkers on Torres a solitary walk!

We absolutely loved Braga when we were there in 2021!

 

[Magwood]

Hi @mick53, I’ve really enjoyed your Torres report - I read my own notes in conjunction with yours. Thanks for reviving memories of a fabulous camino.

 

[Sitkapilgrim]

Day 9 Transco to Sernancelhi 29km

For a time today it seemed that a walker had done the signs for walkers, probably the best signage so far. But we still needed our App.

No services at Ponte do Abade. Maggie's resteraunt is over a km away on a main road. A kind old lady gave us some water at a bread shop further up on the RHS after you cross the bridge.

I don't normally comment on where to get dinner, but there are few choices at the end of the day and Restraunt Flora is highly recommended. A la Carte and an excellent €15 Menu del Dia.

Beautiful walking today.View attachment 147723View attachment 147724

Still only that 1 sick walker!

Now I am confused. I’m in Trancoso, and after a rest day (and a chance to enjoy the annual festival of Chestnuts) I want to walk on but stop before Sernancelhe. I’d like to stay in Ponte de Abade. But the tourist office here in Trancoso has confirmed there are no rooms in Ponte de Abade. Maggie stayed at a restaurant with rooms 1.5 km ((but maybe that was 15km?) from Ponte de Abade. In Residencial Santo Estevao. That would be in Aquiar da Beira, at least 15 km(!!) off Camino. The next day she walked the highway bypassing Sernancelhe and rejoined the camino in Vila da Ponte. At least that is what I have puzzled out. I wish I am mistaken and she really found a place to stay near Ponte de Abade. Does anyone understand this differently?

 

[RodlaRob]

After a tough day into Trancoso ..... I did a shorter stage Into Ponte do Abade & stopped at a small bar just over the Ponte (bridge) in the town.
Quite Elderly husband & wife team provided me with 3 course evening meal. They have Rooms upstairs - were basic. Think I waited 5mins or more for hot water to reach upstairs
Sorry but was 2016, so things have probably changed.

 

[peregrina2000]

I wish I am mistaken and she really found a place to stay near Ponte de Abade. Does anyone understand this differently?

Aguiar da Beira is a Concelho, which gives it a broader territorial jurisdiction beyond the borders of the town itself, and Ponte do Abade is within that concelho. That may explain the confusion.

I stayed in Sernacelhe, which I would highly recommend, so it is a decent fallback if you can’t find the place in Ponte do Abade. Good luck!

 

[Sitkapilgrim]

Aguiar da Beira is a Concelho, which gives it a broader territorial jurisdiction beyond the borders of the town itself, and Ponte do Abade is within that concelho. That may explain the confusion.

I stayed in Sernacelhe, which I would highly recommend, so it is a decent fallback if you can’t find the place in Ponte do Abade. Good luck!

Ah, that explains it. Further research shows the residencial Restaurante Santo Estevao on the N 229 roughly 1.5 km from Ponte Abade. So now Maggie’s itinerary makes sense. If this works for me, it would let me have 2 albergue nights at Vila da Ponte and Beira Valente with short stages.
This is an amazingly beautiful interesting camino!