Boa tarde all!
I'm writing this at Oscar's albergue in Porto. The place would normally be full to capacity at this time of year, but is weirdly empty. I have a room for six all to myself. The other rooms are empty, too. One of the few recent messages in the guest book remarks how surreal it is being a solitary pilgrim in a two level albergue; I have to concur. No glowing, worn out, smelly, talkative, joyful kindred spirits to share food and tales with. It's just me, Oscar, and the albergue cat. It's a wonderful cat, though.
Needless to say, these are hard times for Oscar and many other people owning, running, overseeing albergues whether private, municipal or church run. Oscar told me a couple of sad stories. They really hope and need pilgrims to start coming back soon, or things will become impossible for many of them.
The city itself has a different face without all the tourists here. I climbed the to the top of the Torre dos Clerigos alone and had the incredible views across the city all to myself. It is much less hectic now, which I feel grateful for due to my visceral aversion to swarming crowds of selfie-snapping sightseers. Wearing masks is expected and pervasive; even drivers without passengers wear them, which is something I haven't seen in Berlin.
To be honest, last night, my first night here, I felt a little concerned. Part of me felt like, "gee whiz kiddo, what have you got yourself into? Why didn't you listen to those sceptical people on the Camino forum?" This morning, as expected, that feeling of concern had evaporated like mist in the rising sun, and I felt good to go. I'll begin my camino early tomorrow morning (it's viciously hot by 11am).
At this point, I'm appreciating the advantages of walking the camino in these corona days; it's less busy, essentially a quieter, more solitary experience. As a contemplative person this doesn't bother me; in fact, I do hermit mode fairly well. However, for more social types, the camino wouldn't be much fun at all. Who knows, maybe in a few days I also will be craving comraderie. I will post another update if I can.
Bom caminho!