Walking Camino Ingles Aug/Sep 2007 - completed!!!
Yes;
I walked the Camino Ingles 28 Aug - 1 Sep, five days, and I absolutely loved it!
It is a walk in solitude - first fellow peregrino I ever met was in Bruma - after three days.
I want to shear some of my experiences with the rest of you, hoping that more peregrinos discover this route.
Historically, this route is important for pilgrims coming from Britain, Scandinavia and Iceland and began in the 12th century. I could mention a squadron of crusaders arriving in 1147 on their way to the Holy Land having a stop in Santiago and the tomb of St James and records from an Icelandic monk travelling 1154-1159.
OK. Beeing a Scandinavian, knowing this made it even more right to walk this route.
So, it is easy to go from Santiago to Ferrol. Bus quite frequent for 8.90 euros. Takes less than 1 1/2 hours.
The Xunta at Plaza España has a tourist office and were extremely helpful. Maps and directions to find the route out of Ferrol. As soon as you find the route, it is marked with no problems following the signs.
Entering Narón, there was a detour as the regular route was blocked by construction works, but I asked and was guided straight through town, across a bridge and there the yellow arrows appeared again!
When entering Puentedueme it was a lot of steep downhills, and this is close to 25 km out of Ferrol, so my legs started to hurt. There is an Albergue in Neda so no need walking this far.
Hotels in the area, and the sello you get in the church.
From Puentedueme to Miño is a pretty steep climb out of the town but not too bad and the way further to Betanzos is fine.
After Leiro there is a cafe - Casa Julia - when you are walking down hill before climbing for some kilometers. I strongly recommend a stop, something to eat and drink as the rest of the trip to Bruma is hard. Uphill, there is a waterpoint but no water when I passed through. I had to ask at a farm if I could fill my bottles and the señora smiled and nodded.
The Betanzos - Bruma strech is the longest on the route, and arriving at the Albergue de Bruma (built in 2004 as I could see) was a relief. The Albergue is for free. There is a kitchen where you can cook but some 2-3 km to town. However, the landlady/landlord offered to do shopping/give a ride. Great! Nice people.
This was, as I mentioned, the first place where I met other walking the route. Actually, some came from Coruña and one was walking the opposit direction.
The information you get in Ferrol says there is a 30 km walk from Bruma to Siguero. Well, if so it is the shortest, easiest 30 kms I ever walked! The CSJ says some 20 km, and that is more right. What I found out lokking at a profile of the route is that there is a steady climb from Ferrol to Bruma (well, the steep down to Puentedume is marked as well) but the rest of the way is mostly flat with a slight decent towards Santiago.
I started walking before 7 am, dark but stars and moonlight and the approx 1 hour before it got light was absolutely beautiful! No problems with the route - straight on. Can't miss it, even in the dark!
In Siguero the hostel Miras is still the place to stay, even if I was told they were trying to fix a basketball hall to host peregrinos. Don't bother to find it - and it won't be ready for long, and probably not for resting.
The hostel is not far from the church where you can get your sello and the camino goes right by it.
Started at 7 am for Santiago and was in the Cathedral at 1130 - for the mess!
I did the trip in 5 days, but will recommend 6 or even 7 days. It is a beautiful landscape with places suitable for thoughts.
To all of you: Walk the Camino Ingles is my advice! You will not regret doing so.
Bueno camino!
-Zohar -
