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Visiting Zaragoza

peregrina2000

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Back in 2016, when I walked the Ruta del Ebro, I got bedbugs a day or so out of Zaragoza. That meant there was no relaxing tourist day as we had planned. I’m tentatively planning to walk the Aragonés in 2025. One idea would be to arrive early AM in Madrid, take the train to Zaragoza and spend the afternoon and evening there. Next day on to either Urdos if roads are open, or Somport, to start the Aragonés.

I had gotten some advice about things to see in Zaragoza on this old thread.

For some home-related reasons, the best days for me to leave the US are on a Saturday or Sunday. That means I’d get to Zaragoza on Sunday afternoon or Monday afternoon, when museums and all attractions would be closed. I have been to the Goya museum.

My question for those who have been there is whether a lot of the Roman ruins and other sites are enclosed behind gates and doors or whether putting together a walking tour would give me a good view of the city and a nice way to spend an afternoon/early evening.
 
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Definitely still worth the visit, but better if you could add an extra day! You can see the Roman wall (also the site of a separatist bombing) and part of the theater even when the Roman museums are closed, but it would be a shame to stay there and miss out on really experiencing them. You may have a chance to visit the Aljaferia Palace/Parliament on a Monday, those hours vary. If so, its history is very interesting. The Basilica and Cathedral are open on those days, so you’ll be able to see them, too.

From Madrid, there is (or was previously, because it could change) two trains a day to Canfranc Estacion via Huesca and Jaca. From the end of that line, you can catch a bus to Somport or over the pass into France with stops on the Camino Arles
 
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Bus or train are both ok. Zaragoza to Canfranc if the the train is working, then catch the Mountain bus in front of the Pharmacy to Somport or bus from Zaragoza to Jaca and then catch the mountain bus in the same building to Somport. Bus is usually cheaper. Check the Avanza bus company for Zaragoza to Jaca. The Mountain bus runs several times each day. If the train works are not completed, the train station in Jaca is not very near the bus station so I recommend bus the whole way.
 
When I was there I went on a group walking tour which was very interesting and didn't take us inside any buildings. I also took the tourist bus tour that went beyond the main part of the city.
 
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I just checked Google Maps, and it shows that the Aljafería Palace is open every day, though only from 10 - 2 on Sundays. The other days they reopen from 4:30 - 6:30.
 
I’m tentatively planning to walk the Aragonés in 2025.
Me too - can't decide between the Aragones and a return to the Invierno, which I loved,

Sadly, trains only run Zaragoza - Huesca at the moment, (three a day) pending an upgrade of the line to Canfranc Estacion. It's one of the great railway journeys of Europe. I can fly direct to Zaragoza from the UK - or Lourdes, and make my way to Urdos.

Decisions, decisions!
 
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Sadly, trains only run Zaragoza - Huesca at the moment, (three a day) pending an upgrade of the line to Canfranc Estacion.
I was thrown off because I bought a ticket for Zaragoza to Canfrac Estación, but at Huesca I was told that I would need to get off and get the bus. Then I was worried that I wouldn't find the correct bus! But I made it all the way to Oloron-Sainte-Marie after a 3 hour wait at Canfranc Estación for the bus to Bedous, then a short train ride to Oloron.

Fortunately, I had lovely weather while I waited.

 
Sadly, trains only run Zaragoza - Huesca at the moment, (three a day) pending an upgrade of the line to Canfranc Estacion.
Well, this is all confounding! I’m going to start a new thread and paste in some of this discussion.
 
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Do you know if it follows the railway line? When I travelled it in 2008 most of the stations past Huesca, apart from Jaca, looked unused, not to say abandoned.
Not really, the rail line is higher up above the road on the side of the mountainous terrain and not always visible from the road. The road takes you through the villages and the mountain bus drops you at the Pharmacy in Canfranc Estación while the new train station (not the hotel remade from the old grand station) is further up the hill, across the river, and a few blocks over behind the hotel.
 
Right now, the train is definitely not working. When we crossed the tracks at Peña la Estación in May 2024, they weren´t there, much to my dismay, they had been ripped up. However, on arriving in Peña la Estación, there was great activity at the station. It turns out they are upgrading the whole line from Huesca to Canfranc. That´s the good news. The bad news is they weren´t expected to finish until end of 2025. It will be an amazing railway trip when it's finished though.
 
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I was there recently on a Thursday and Friday. I enjoyed just walking around the city and going to the big, beautiful church and seeing the views from up high (I stayed at hotel Alfonso, which has an amazing rooftop view). Lots of nice restaurants and pretty exteriors to see, even if the ruins are closed.

I had a bad time on all the trains I took, a much better track record taking the bus. The train was frequently late, delayed by hours, or it just didn't come at all. I also unknowingly booked a local train from Zaragoza to Pamplona and had to stand the whole time, plus some local teenage boys caused a disturbance and the train was further delayed. Oh my! I'm personally never taking a train in Spain again. The buses were on time and cheaper anyway.

Have fun!
 

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