Hello
@MikeJS
As
@Corned Beef says I continued in 2018 on from Rome and eventually to S Maria de Leuca. The route is fairly well 'defined' now with a recent guidebook from
Terre di Mezzo now in English and a shortly forthcoming one from Sandy Brown for Cicerone (I think). And it is on the viefrancigene site
here.
The route turns left before you get as far as Naples and crosses Italy once more, but with much less effort than crossing the Alps, or the Appenines at Cisa pass. There are a host of possible variants, depending on where you might want to go. You could visit Monte Cassino (I didn't) and Monte Sant'Angelo (I didn't) and Santuario Madre di Dio Incoronata (I did and got a "pilgrim welcome"
).
There is a variable amount of infrastructure, more as time goes on I think. There are parishes and monasteries. BnB generally cheaper than in the north - you are quite a way off the tourist trail. Not a great deal of English spoken and quite often none.
Some people complain that there is probably more road walking (on quiet roads, mainly) than in the north. I have to say this never bothers me, (nor do cobbles), and I don't pay too much heed.
You can choose how soon to hit the east coast - I took an earlier option and very much enjoyed walking down the coast. Might be less attractive if you don't relish fish and seafood!! I didn't have
@Corned Beef 's trouble with a gated community but as I aid it was a while back now.
The Puglian coast is very much 'native Italian' holiday territory. Not over-commercialised. Almost closed down out of season, though I managed to find accommodation into late November.
From Brindisi on, you can go inland to Lecce (wonderful) and follow a slightly alternative
Cammino di Salento.
You could also look at the
Cammino Materano and possibly mix and match a bit? I walked from Matera to Brindisi using their routes. They are not 'traditional' routes but the contemporary work of a wonderfully enthusiastic team of volunteers. Great infrastructure with BnBs who offer genuine and generous discount when booked directly.
I met very few people walking from Rome onwards. Less than a dozen I would say from Rome to Santa Maria.