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Veteran pilgrims --- Help with Triacastela to Sarria?

Camino2014

Pilgrim
Time of past OR future Camino
Piémont, Frances, Littoral, Norte, Ingles (completed) Baztan, St. Jaume, Portuguese (planned!)
Hello everyone!

I was doing some research about the routes from Triacastela to Sarria, and I've received many different opinions.

The Brierley guidebook talks about the route through San Xil as being more scenic and rural than the more popular route to Samos Monastery. However, many have told me that the Samos route is equally as beautiful and that the monastery is worth it. And still others have mentioned alterternative unmarked routes as being better, less crowded options.

To all those veteran pilgrims of the Camino Frances --- which route is the best to reach Sarria?
If it means anything, I tend to enjoy the more scenic, rural routes over those with large groups of people.

Thank you so much for your help.
 
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It is mostly about seeing Samos, not the number of people. San Xil is shorter and faster, so most use it these days.
 
falcon269 said:
It is mostly about seeing Samos, not the number of people. San Xil is shorter and faster, so most use it these days.
Click to expand...

I guess my question is that, is Samos worth it?
And of the two, which is more scenic/rural?
 
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When we did our second Frances, we tried to see all the alternatives we missed the first time. The one exception was that we once again went north out of Tricastela. I have yet to see Samos, but the northern route is to me perhaps the most beautiful piece of the entire route.
 

Thanks for the opinion!
I've heard a lot of good about Samos, but I'm thinking I'll have to take your advice.
 
The route from Triacastela to Samos is nice, you pass through some lovely villages although there is a few miles next to a busyish road. The monastery at Samos looks impressive but you can only go round by tour. The tours are at set times and not that frequent so if you hit Samos at the wrong time then you could be adding 2-3 hours to your day. The walk to Sarria is a bit long and tedious so bear that in mind if that's your ultimate destination. In the end I decided I couldn't afford an extra couple of hours to wait for it to start and the length of the tour itself. With hindsight I'd be in no hurry to reach Sarria if I did it again, I found it a bit of a dump. I'd rather see the monastery, walk into the afternoon and stop before town somewhere.

If you're going the short route then I'd recommend using the extra time to get out of Sarria and on to some of the nicer stops on the other side.
 
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Parts of the Benedictine monastery at Samos are as early as the 9th century, but most was built in the 16th and 17th centuries. Much, however, had to be rebuilt after a fire in 1951. Still in use only sections can be visited. New murals along the interior corridors are most impressive, combining biblical and historical figures in a Social Realist style. If you stay in the BLEAK monastery albergue be sure to attend evening vespers. All the Benedictine monks wear black habits. Other full size images of monks are painted on the corridor walls. In the dim light the atmosphere is surreal! In winter there is no heat; there NEVER has been any since construction in the 16th century! Angels painted on the dorm's vaulted ceiling appear to quiver in the FRIGID air.

The restaurant A Veiga on the western edge of town has a GREAT menu de dia with welcome HEAT in winter.

Margaret Meredith
 
Rush to Sarria and miss a free tour of a World Heritage quality monastery? You can see cow dung villages in lots of places besides Triacastela-Sarria. It IS an interesting choice, and more than a little bit self-revealing. :wink:

I have done one twice and the other one thrice. You have to guess which!!
 
I didn't take the Samos route but did find that by the time I had made it that far I was losing interest in walking extra to see more old buildings, as impressive and historic as they may have been. At least that's how I felt on the trail...
 
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My suggestion is to go to Samos and stay in the Monesterio

At least take time to visit it if you decide not to stay there.
 
I followed the shorter hillier route.

There is a very lovely fountain on the road to San Xil.

I noticed the difference in traffic when the roads converged at Calvor.
 
My recommendation is to let the weather decide. The San Xil is tough in hard rain and is missing an optional stopping place like Samos
 
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Yes do see the monastery and absolutely do not miss the separate and tiny the Chapel of Ciprés (Cypress)!!! It is located in the park just opposite from the entrance to the Samos monastery albergue entrance where you may ask for the key. Why? I offer a conundrum. The chapel was allowed to be built by the local authorities for use by the Moriscos workmen, that is for Muslim converts to Catholicism, building parts of the monastery, . Classically Christian churches are positioned on an East West orientation as if facing Jerusalem with ample seating room for all those who wish to pray often with the apse in the Eastern wall so that worshipers not only envision the altar and the cross but out and beyond until the Holy City. The Chapel of Ciprés indeed has an apse, within which is a small altar and a cross -however and this is a big however, the chapel is just a smidgen misaligned-the apse faced far too much too the South East to be facing Jerusalem. There is hardly any room inside for chairs or benches for the worshippers to sit upon. There is however a stone bunch running right around the nave on all three sides for the comfort of those praying before and after the prayer. Jerusalem is basically located to the East and a bit but there is another Holy City off to the South East, no not Rome but Mecca. Anyone who has entered a small neighborhood mosque in say Morocco Tunisia Egypt and yes Israel will immediately feel the kinship. This may only be a farfetched conjuncture however this little chapel bears too many hints and insinuations to be taken at face value. It is certainly worth a visit.
PS You did not say when you would be there. Do know that the monastery can be tee-totally freezing bone cracking even in late Spring even when filled with pilgrims reduced to a foetal position in order to survive the night!
 
I adore the Samos route! It's beautiful and there are several options for lodging if you don't want to sleep in the Albergue. I wouldn't miss it, myself.
 
I would not have missed Samos for the world. It was an enchanting place. There is a beautiful river walk that is perfect for contemplation.
 
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When I walked in 2008 my body was too tired to think about going via Samos, but last year I decided to go that way. After the first few kms out of Tricastela along the road, you leave the road and begin walking along a beautiful track that passes over tiny bridges and near various villages. I loved this walk- it was one of my favourite sections of walking in Galicia.

After nearly 10km, you arrive at a point above the monastery, and get a stunning view from above. I arrived just in time for the first of the day's tours in the monastery.

I was only carrying the light Michelin guide which had some errors- one being that it took you along the road all the way to Sarria. In fact, for walkers there was another beautiful route that took you off-road and through some very unpeopled parts of Galicia. I felt like this route took me to the heart of 'Celtic" Galicia. I also felt a bit 'lost' as there were not very many markers(!), but eventually this route rejoins the main route into Sarria. I'd really recommend taking this quiet alternative route- but I made the mistake of not carrying enough food or water. There aren't any cafes along the way from Samos until you get back onto the main route from Triacastela.
Margaret
 
Just to add my vote: I have walked both routes and like the Samos one better. And as others have already said, apart of the monastery (don't miss the vespers) there is also the small Cypress Chapel which is impressive in its simplicity, SY
 
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Indeed - the Samos route is way less crowded. We intended to take the San Xil route, but missed the sign because of the dark. It was beautiful though. No cafés before Samos, so take enough water and food.
 
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