VDLP in summer

[ScouseKeith]

Good evening fellow pilgrims.
Are there any pilgrims brave enough to be walking the Via de la Plata right now as I’m walking it next year July and August.
Keith

 

[Bradypus]

I would question your use of "brave" - "unwise" or "foolish" would seem more appropriate. On what is normally the third stage for most walkers you pass by two memorials to pilgrims who died while walking in extreme temperatures. A young and fit man in his 40's died some years ago while walking the very long stage from Casar de Caceres to Cañaveral in temperatures over 40C - the sort of conditions currently being experienced on the southern part of the route. Unlike the more popular routes there is often little shade and no access to water for many km. Few opportunities to simply bail out when temperatures prove too much. Unless you have some very pressing personal reason for walking this particular route in mid-summer and experience of walking in such conditions it seems a strange and potentially dangerous choice.

 

[Kev&Kath]

Can only mirror Bradypus' sound advice. My wife and I walked the VdlP over Apr-Jun last year. While the overall ambient temperature for us was quite bearable - I clearly recall commenting on the actual strength of the sun, and how I wouldn't want to be out there in the warmer months. I would not contemplate walking this path in June/July/August. The VdlP is just too special to spoil it by attempting to walk in conditions that are clearly not conducive to health of either body, mind or soul.

 

[ScouseKeith]

Thanks guys, you’re quite right, walking in high temperatures can be very dangerous. I know from experience serving working in temperatures up in the fifties all summer but isn’t that what pilgrimages are all about, it’s not meant to be easy sufferance is part of the journey.

 

[mkc]

Thanks guys, you’re quite right, walking in high temperatures can be very dangerous. I know from experience serving working in temperatures up in the fifties all summer but isn’t that what pilgrimages are all about, it’s not meant to be easy sufferance is part of the journey.

We walked last fall, beginning in September. It was unusually hot, until it was unusually rainy for 29 or so days. We had ample opportunity both to enjoy the walk and to experience some suffering. Don't underestimate the heat. It's real.

 

[Lindsay53]

Thanks guys, you’re quite right, walking in high temperatures can be very dangerous. I know from experience serving working in temperatures up in the fifties all summer but isn’t that what pilgrimages are all about, it’s not meant to be easy sufferance is part of the journey.

Pilgrimages are about the journey, and sometimes a bit of discomfort is a part of that journey. However that is a long way from deliberately setting out in extreme conditions when there is no need to do so. I would rethink your plan Keith.

 

[Robo]

Good evening fellow pilgrims.
Are there any pilgrims brave enough to be walking the Via de la Plata right now as I’m walking it next year July and August.
Keith

I walked it last year starting last week of March through April, to avoid the heat.
Whilst some days later in the walk reached 'only' 28C the sun was brutal.
My umbrella was put to good use.

In July / August you will certainly be putting yourself at risk to a degree.
You will likely need to carry 4-5 litres of water on many stages, as generally you need to carry your water requirements for the day.

One of the things to consider is the symptoms and effects of heat related injury.
I interviewed an ER doctor some time ago about this.

You are likely to be alone all day, and therefore have no one to spot the symptoms.
You may not see it in yourself.........

This is a great video made by a guy who walked the VdlP in summer, if you are determined.

 

[trecile]

it’s not meant to be easy sufferance is part of the journey.

I definitely don't agree that suffering is part of the journey, but you are talking about doing something that I believe is unwise, and could put you in a situation that is beyond suffering.

I have been tired, sore, hot, cold, wet, and uncomfortable on Camino, but I have never suffered. I think that there's already enough suffering in the world, and I don't want to add to it.

 

[OTH86]

When you were working under those conditions, you may have had team members or other folks working and providing support.

sufferance is part of the journey

...but not necessarily unto death... And not at the expense of those who care about you nor those who may be called out to assist you...
Buen Camino...

 

[Robo]

Thanks guys, you’re quite right, walking in high temperatures can be very dangerous. I know from experience serving working in temperatures up in the fifties all summer but isn’t that what pilgrimages are all about, it’s not meant to be easy sufferance is part of the journey.

If you have walked a Camino before, you will appreciate that there is a degree of 'suffering' without seeking to add to it. Physical and emotional pain will often be a part of the journey.

If you feel the need to add more............put a few bricks in your backpack
In fact bags of sand work better (bitter experience in the Military)

 

[Flog]

I have to agree with all the above sentiments. Unlike the Northern caminos, where you're rarely more than a few kilometres from a town, a bar, or even a water source, the VDLP has some vast and exposed stretches between villages with no access to safe drinking water.. a solitary enough route in springtime, it will be pretty much devoid of other pilgrims at this time of year. The memorial on the way up to Alto del Calvario, marking the spot where a man collapsed and died the previous year, was a sobering reminder for me, of how nature doesn't take prisoners.

 

[Sirage]

Some years ago I started the VDLP about May and within 2 weeks it was often over 40 each day: an early start to the hot season. I stopped walking and for the next month or so I visited some wonderful Spanish places in air-conditioned coaches, including Segovia at a cool high altitude.

Some weeks later the news reported a pilgrim died from the heat on the VDLP. Sadly, Darwin's theory of evolution might give a clue, with some and their family suffering grief.

 

[Corned Beef]

Would it be possible to walk this as a nighttime walk? Might be interesting to be able to navigate by the stars, arriving early morning as the towns are waking up.

 

[Sirage]

Would it be possible to walk this as a nighttime walk?

One of my best days was just before I abandoned the VDLP that year. I started in the pitch black at 4:30, I found a bar at 5 for a coffee and tostado, and the scenery was often spectacular in the night. Though finishing my 25 kms or so about 11am when the temp rose to 40 ish took the edge off it.

That was one day - walking the whole way starting at 2 or 3 am is a possibility.

But why? Just starting in March seems like a no-brainer.

 

[Bradypus]

But why? Just starting in March seems like a no-brainer.

In the FAQ section of his website devoted to the Via de la Plata @geraldkelly makes the following very sensible observation: "If you search around the internet you'll find some accounts of people who've walked in summer. They give advice such as carry a hiking umbrella, carry lots of water, start very early (and walk several hours in the dark), etc. This is all sound advice, but it boils down to one thing, if you take all of the following precautions then the southern section of the Vía in summer is just about bearable. Why would you want to do that when there are lots of other Caminos in northern Spain you could walk instead and have a far more relaxed and enjoyable time?"

Vía de la Plata - the Free Guide to the Vía de la Plata

Vía de la Plata - the Free Guide to the Vía de la Plata

www.viadelaplataguide.net

 

[David Tallan]

As you can see, the overwhelming sentiment seems to echo the concerns that I raised when you raised your plans in your other recent introductory post in this sub-forum.

You may find more useful information in the VDLP Forum on this site. I think the closest you will find to a summer walker will be @LTfit, who had a recent "LIVE from the Camino" thread for her walk on the VDLP/Sanabres this June/July starting from Zamora. Looking back the last while, I'm not seeing other summer Live Camino threads.

 

[Kev&Kath]

I walked it last year starting last week of March through April, to avoid the heat.
Whilst some days later in the walk reached 'only' 28C the sun was brutal.
My umbrella was put to good use.

In July / August you will certainly be putting yourself at risk to a degree.
You will likely need to carry 4-5 litres of water on many stages, as generally you need to carry your water requirements for the day.

One of the things to consider is the symptoms and effects of heat related injury.
I interviewed an ER doctor some time ago about this.

You are likely to be alone all day, and therefore have no one to spot the symptoms.
You may not see it in yourself.........

This is a great video made by a guy who walked the VdlP in summer, if you are determined.

I don't think I can count the times I've watched Chris' (Nalutia) video. Quite amazing and very enjoyable.

 

[rig085]

I would never do that now.
I walked in October but I think to start in May would be ideal.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

You may find more useful information in the VDLP Forum on this site. I think the closest you will find to a summer walker will be @LTfit, who had a recent "LIVE from the Camino" thread for her walk on the VDLP/Sanabres this June/July starting from Zamora. Looking back the last while, I'm not seeing other summer Live Camino threads.

@LTfit only walked the VDlP from Zamora this time, which is much farther north, and much of the Sanabres section has higher elevations. Starting from Seville seems a mistake to start in July or August being so much farther south and having little shade most of the time.

 

[ScouseKeith]

Thanks guys your messages are all very useful.
Keith

 

[ScouseKeith]

Can only mirror Bradypus' sound advice. My wife and I walked the VdlP over Apr-Jun last year. While the overall ambient temperature for us was quite bearable - I clearly recall commenting on the actual strength of the sun, and how I wouldn't want to be out there in the warmer months. I would not contemplate walking this path in June/July/August. The VdlP is just too special to spoil it by attempting to walk in conditions that are clearly not conducive to health of either body, mind or soul.

Hi guys thanks for your input. I tend to start walking about five at the break of dawn that gives me 6-7hrs and I tend to yomp when I walk as we did in the military and I must admit I do walk better in the summer sun. Keith

 

[ScouseKeith]

Can only mirror Bradypus' sound advice. My wife and I walked the VdlP over Apr-Jun last year. While the overall ambient temperature for us was quite bearable - I clearly recall commenting on the actual strength of the sun, and how I wouldn't want to be out there in the warmer months. I would not contemplate walking this path in June/July/August. The VdlP is just too special to spoil it by attempting to walk in conditions that are clearly not conducive to health of either body, mind or soul.

Hi guys where did you get your travel passport stamped to start your walk. Keith

 

[DeansFamily]

We started the VdlP in mid October and still had 38°C walking out of Seville. Being familiar with the walking conditions I would never contemplate starting any earlier. Please don't end up a statistic, they didn't name the region Extremadura that for nothing!

 

[Sirage]

walking the whole way starting at 2 or 3 am is a possibility.

On reflection this was an insufficient comment

I tend to start walking about five at the break of dawn that gives me 6-7hrs and I tend to yomp when I walk as we did in the military

The key factor that led me to abandon that walk (I completed the rest of the VDLP last year in much more manageable temperatures) was what would I do when I finished walking at 10 or 11 am ?

From 11 am until after sunset it would be unacceptably hot so the usual routine of finding a bed and having lunch might, maybe, work for some: but after lunch say 1 or 2 pm I would be trapped avoiding the afternoon heat, unable to do the usual meandering around town, sitting outside with a beer or whatever.

I couldn't be sure all the albergues would have adequate airconditioning and too many might be like ovens, possibly well into the night when sleep time might be 20;00 to 3:00, or early. Alternatively I could stay in air-conditioned hostels/hotels at a higher price, but still isolated inside a room, say reading books all the time. Sitting in an air-conditioned bar all afternoon also wasn't going to be an option for me.

In other words if someone wants to walk and finish mid-morning before the heat you need to think what your daily pattern of activities would be. This isn't necessary on most of the Caminos as life just happens naturally.

 

[dick bird]

Please don’t take unnecessary risks. Walking in Estremadura in August is unnecessary and highly risky.

 

[Paul-CH]

Hi guys thanks for your input. I tend to start walking about five at the break of dawn that gives me 6-7hrs and I tend to yomp when I walk as we did in the military and I must admit I do walk better in the summer sun. Keith

It has warnings enough now, by the looks of the photo you should be old enough to make wise decisions after this input. Otherwise, Darwin comes into play. Have it you way.

 

[Kev&Kath]

Hi guys where did you get your travel passport stamped to start your walk. Keith

We started our pilgrimage on Good Friday…out of Cadiz. Tried a number of different times at the Cathedral, but no luck finding anyone during this very busy time for Cathedral lay folk. We were told by security staff that, at any other time of the year, getting a stamp at the Cathedral is never an issue. Our first stamp was from our accommodation.

 

[Paul-CH]

Hi guys where did you get your travel passport stamped to start your walk. Keith

I got mine stamped at the cathedral in Cadiz 19/03/2023 and cathedral Sevilla 25/03/2023

 

[Donna Sch]

I did a June/July VDLP. I was super fit at the time and I live in Northern Australia in the tropics so normal is around 32 deg C. Prior to that I lived in desert country and that is the type of heat you will face. Dry heat where you don't realise how much you are sweating because it evaporates instantly. I found that the minute it hit 35 deg the umbrella was required to give enough shade to take the temperature down a degree or two. Extremadura has to be well planned because that is the area you will end up in strife. I was carrying 3 litres most days plus extra Aquarius, juice poppers and drank at every opportunity. And my friend ran out of water at Caparra and I had 200ml left. We had planned to top up at the visitor centre but the staff closed up early on a weekend and that meant we could not access the vending machine. Which is not enough to walk to Oliva on so I was very thankful for the pickup for the Hostal. One of the issues with early starts is the cafes are not open when you walk past them if there is one en route and most of the time there isn't. I was fluid loading before starting and at every opportunity and I was still peeing concentrated urine. I started walking at dawn and did start a little earlier if the weather forecast was looking too hot. There are quite a few detailed posts on heat stress and water requirements if you really are determined to do it. But every year since I did it in 2015 seems to have gotten hotter and have record temps. I would not recommend starting later than early June and that is assuming you are acclimatised to hot weather.

 

[domigee]

I did a June/July VDLP. I was super fit at the time and I live in Northern Australia in the tropics so normal is around 32 deg C. Prior to that I lived in desert country and that is the type of heat you will face. Dry heat where you don't realise how much you are sweating because it evaporates instantly. I found that the minute it hit 35 deg the umbrella was required to give enough shade to take the temperature down a degree or two. Extremadura has to be well planned because that is the area you will end up in strife. I was carrying 3 litres most days plus extra Aquarius, juice poppers and drank at every opportunity. And my friend ran out of water at Caparra and I had 200ml left. We had planned to top up at the visitor centre but the staff closed up early on a weekend and that meant we could not access the vending machine. Which is not enough to walk to Oliva on so I was very thankful for the pickup for the Hostal. One of the issues with early starts is the cafes are not open when you walk past them if there is one en route and most of the time there isn't. I was fluid loading before starting and at every opportunity and I was still peeing concentrated urine. I started walking at dawn and did start a little earlier if the weather forecast was looking too hot. There are quite a few detailed posts on heat stress and water requirements if you really are determined to do it. But every year since I did it in 2015 seems to have gotten hotter and have record temps. I would not recommend starting later than early June and that is assuming you are acclimatised to hot weather.

I walked it at the same time as you, arrived in Sevilla 1st June I think. I never expected it to be so bad and I spent most of my Summers in Andalucia from an early age!
I couldn’t agree more with you!
Yes, carrying at least 3L of water is a must but…. the water quickly gets very hot and is unpalatable lol. And often that is not enough and there is nowhere to get more.
I wouldn’t advise it, really. The yr I walked it (2015) at least 2 people died, in Extremadura. (The ones I heard about anyway).
I would reconsider

 

[Robo]

Would it be possible to walk this as a nighttime walk? Might be interesting to be able to navigate by the stars, arriving early morning as the towns are waking up.

Certainly some sections could be walked at night, particularly with a clear sky and a decent amount of moonlight.

But some, certainly not. I think it would be quite dangerous.

And if you don't know the route, you won't know beforehand which could or shouldn't be walked at night.

And there is the added issue of remoteness.
A fall with a broken ankle?
Thankfully cell coverage is good along the VdlP.

I think night walking on this route would be a very bad idea honestly.

Early starts are a different thing.
An hour or so with a good head torch at the start of the day is generally on good terrain. Leaving towns/ villages etc.
Then once you have twilight (30 mins before dawn) you can see well.

Lastly, you have the challenge of what to do all day.
Often in a small sleepy village with nothing open till later.

 

[Robo]

Hi guys where did you get your travel passport stamped to start your walk. Keith

I got mine stamped in the Cathedral office in Sevilla.

 

[Robo]

Hi guys thanks for your input. I tend to start walking about five at the break of dawn that gives me 6-7hrs and I tend to yomp when I walk as we did in the military and I must admit I do walk better in the summer sun. Keith

Yomp? Royal Marine huh?
We used to 'Tab'

 

[ScouseKeith]

Yomp? Royal Marine huh?
We used to 'Tab'

Tab mmm Para

 

[Robo]

Tab mmm Para

Naa. Bit of an obscure role....... long time ago now.
Sent you a DM

 

[dreaming]

I walked the camino in France from Le Puy. A younger, male pilgrim told me that it was his friend who had died on the VDLP a year earlier. Apparently he thought an albergue would be open but it wasn't. His friend rang his wife saying he wasn't well. She rang emergency services but he had already died by the time they reached him.

 

[Bradypus]

I walked the camino in France from Le Puy. A younger, male pilgrim told me that it was his friend who had died on the VDLP a year earlier. Apparently he thought an albergue would be open but it wasn't. His friend rang his wife saying he wasn't well. She rang emergency services but he had already died by the time they reached him.

I think you are talking about Josef Scheffler who died near Canaveral in August 2018 after finding the albergue at the Alcantara reservoir was closed. A very long stage with almost no shade and no access to drinking water.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/josef-scheffler-on-via-de-la-plata.57167/post-647424

 

[DeansFamily]

We ran out of water 5 km before that albergue (back when it was open in 2019), and that was in mid November from Caceres with topping up at Casar de Caceres. We each had adequate water but it wasn't sufficient for the distance/conditions/lack of water points. We weren't dying of thirst when we arrived but it drives home how easy it is to be caught out, especially in severe conditions.

 

[ScouseKeith]

I’ve seen pilgrims on the Frances running out of water and not anywhere near as hot as VdlP, water is so crucial

 

[Flog]

Water is crucial, yes. But there is really nothing to compare the two routes (apart from the longish 18 kilometre stretch of the Frances with no services after Carrion de los Condes, though even that now seems to have a permanent trailer/bar place set up half way with food and drink).

You've had good advice from those who've gone before you, but you'll do what you do.. it seems you will, anyway. You're clearly proud of your yomping (I had to look it up!) I hope you won't be too proud to accept the number for a taxi from any well meaning hospis along the way, should you find yourself in trouble.. Just in case.

 

[ScouseKeith]

That’s why I’m allowing myself 5 extra days should I need to take rest days, I pushed my body once before so I intend to walk within my means. As this will probably be my last I want to enjoy every day as much as possible

 

[ScouseKeith]

We started our pilgrimage on Good Friday…out of Cadiz. Tried a number of different times at the Cathedral, but no luck finding anyone during this very busy time for Cathedral lay folk. We were told by security staff that, at any other time of the year, getting a stamp at the Cathedral is never an issue. Our first stamp was from our accommodation.

Thanks Kev and Kath

 

[domigee]

That’s why I’m allowing myself 5 extra days should I need to take rest days, I pushed my body once before so I intend to walk within my means. As this will probably be my last I want to enjoy every day as much as possible

I’ve said my piece and so have many others but please one more question, if I may…
Do you HAVE TO walk in July/August?
I ask because I had no choice, being a teacher.
Whichever way you go, take care and buen Camino

 

[Waka]

That’s why I’m allowing myself 5 extra days should I need to take rest days, I pushed my body once before so I intend to walk within my means. As this will probably be my last I want to enjoy every day as much as possible

If you're intention going in the hottest part of the year, then I sincerely hope it's not your last camino.

 

[ScouseKeith]

I’ve said my piece and so have many others but please one more question, if I may…
Do you HAVE TO walk in July/August?
I ask because I had no choice, being a teacher.
Whichever way you go, take care and buen Camino

Unfortunately I can only manage from the last week of June to the end of August bank holiday to fit it in as I cycle a charity event that my brother arranges every year for marrie currie .
But thank you

 

[ScouseKeith]

If you're intention going in the hottest part of the year, then I sincerely hope it's not your last camino.

I sincerely hope not, but it won’t be the last of my trekking just the long Caminos.

 

[Oravasaari]

I too would caution against the warmer months. I walked out of Seville 26 March 2023 on my 6th camino and it was close to 30 degrees already. Nuts.

 

[ScouseKeith]

Did you find most of the terrain flat

 

[Paul-CH]

Did you find most of the terrain flat

You can check it on GRONZE or look at my route-planning

 

[Bradypus]

Did you find most of the terrain flat

Very mixed. Large sections in the centre are very flat with vast areas of cereal fields. In the southern sections there are a few fairly modest gradual hills but nothing like the hill sections of the Frances. Once you get to the borders of Galicia in the Sanabres section it does become very hilly with some large ascents and descents.

 

[Sirage]

in the Sanabres section it does become very hilly with some large ascents and descents

.... and they are a wonderful experience. If you have got this far from Seville they should not be difficult except for the most extreme of flat-landers.

 

[ScouseKeith]

Very mixed. Large sections in the centre are very flat with vast areas of cereal fields. In the southern sections there are a few fairly modest gradual hills but nothing like the hill sections of the Frances. Once you get to the borders of Galicia in the Sanabres section it does become very hilly with some large ascents and descents.

That’s good, by the time I get to Sanabres my legs will be solid. I always found those first 3-4 days on the Frances were murder.

 

[Paul-CH]

I always found those first 3-4 days on the Frances were murder.

If less than 900 m going up over 23 km is like murder for you, it looks like you are not in training anymore. So the time you did yomp it's quite a long time ago. And remember whatever style you walk doesn't take away the heat. From Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral it's 33km without water or anything else.

I did start 6am for the breakfast and 7am from Casar de Cáceres on April 8th by 7°C and arrived at around noon at Cañaveral for a beer and some food and when I reached my destination Grimaldo 14:45h it was already 26°C.

 

[AlanSykes]

From Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral it's 33km without water or anything else.

Hmm, "up to a point, Lord Copper". For a large part of that day you are within easy reach of the embalse of Jóse María Oriol, at the confluence of the Tagus, Araya and Almonte rivers. One of the largest reservoirs of fresh water in the world.

 

[ScouseKeith]

If less than 900 m going up over 23 km is like murder for you, it looks like you are not in training anymore. So the time you did yomp it's quite a long time ago. And remember whatever style you walk doesn't take away the heat. From Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral it's 33km without water or anything else.

I did start 6am for the breakfast and 7am from Casar de Cáceres on April 8th by 7°C and arrived at around noon at Cañaveral for a beer and some food and when I reached my destination Grimaldo 14:45h it was already 26°C.

It normally takes a few days to get your walking legs working then after that it’s walking within yourself. On average I usually walk 28-30 kms a day and always start the crack of dawn use the coolness of the first 5-6hrs to get the kms in.
Just a thought did you get any down pours and if you did, did it affect the trail much

 

[Paul-CH]

Hmm, "up to a point, Lord Copper". For a large part of that day you are within easy reach of the embalse of Jóse María Oriol, at the confluence of the Tagus, Araya and Almonte rivers. One of the largest reservoirs of fresh water in the world.

Did you walk the VP? Through. You see a lot of water, but the near is relative.

 

[Paul-CH]

Just a thought did you get any down pours and if you did, did it affect the trail much

I had 44 days from Cadiz to SdC and only a half day of light rain. So very dry.
But this year I read stories about being prevented to hike out of Sevilla because of flooding. They had to use a taxi on the motorway, as the roads have been closed.

These few days of training. I“m doing at home. Last year 1500km walking 1700km running and 1700km hiking.

 

[Donna Sch]

In my summer Camino there were a few afternoons when you could see thunder clouds build up. Which can be a bit alarming as you are very much in the open. Otherwise I got a tiny bit of drizzle near Monesterio. It was the middle of a heatwave but I seemed to attract the one little patch of clouds in Spain. @domigee copped the really hot stuff walking a week ahead of me. The ElTiempo weather app is really accurate no matter where I use it in the world.

 

[ScouseKeith]

That’s reassuring, I got caught a few times in pouring rain on the Frances and Del Norte it was like walking in porridge