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Variante Espiritual

Krista Rogman

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (2016), Camino Portugues (2017)
I am thinking of walking the variante espiritual in a year or two. Is there a book I could order which whould show me maps, distances, places to stay, etc.
 
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I stayed in Ponferrada, then the muni in Armenteira, the muni in Vilanova de Arousa and then onto Santiago.

Between Ponferrada and Armenteira is the beautiful village of Combarro which has some hotels at good prices, as long as you are walking off season. Combarro is as expensive as it gets in Spain in July and August.

Between Armenteira and Vilanova is, at the bottom of the Ruata de Piedra y Agua, the bar and pension Os Castanos.

Other than that, nothing.
 
Dont think you need a book, its all waymarket. I didnt do it but i saw this sign just outside Ponferrada. To get your self familiar with the water and stone route i highly recommend Ray Uprichard book Walking the Spiritual Variante of the Camino Portuguese. Its no guide book but an excellent read if you are interested in the route.
 

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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I am thinking of walking the varient espiritual in a year or two. Is there a book I could order which whould show me maps, distances, places to stay, etc.

Yes, A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino Portugués by John Brierley 2018 edition has a section at the back on the Variante Espiritual. You will be able to order it from Ivar on this website as soon as he has the latest edition in stock. (See “Services in Santiago by Ivar” and then click on “Camino Store”.)

If you are walking in July-September there is another place to stay in Armenteira besides the albergue, as the new Pousada Armenteira is open in summer:
http://www.pousadadearmenteira.com/EN/hotel.html
Telephone: +34 986 716 372
Email: info@pousadadearmenteira.com

Happy planning!
Jill
 
I stayed in Ponferrada, then the muni in Armenteira, the muni in Vilanova de Arousa and then onto Santiago.

Between Ponferrada and Armenteira is the beautiful village of Combarro which has some hotels at good prices, as long as you are walking off season. Combarro is as expensive as it gets in Spain in July and August.

Between Armenteira and Vilanova is, at the bottom of the Ruata de Piedra y Agua, the bar and pension Os Castanos.

Other than that, nothing.
I think you mean Pontevedra, NOT Ponferrada!
 
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I am thinking of walking the variante espiritual in a year or two. Is there a book I could order which whould show me maps, distances, places to stay, etc.
You can get this guide on Amazon either in book form or digital Guide to "The Camino Portugués (Part Two from Porto to Santiago de Compostela)" The Variante Espiritual is 3 days. As you are leaving Pontevedra you will see a sign telling you where to turn.
 
One word of caution: the usual stages are Armenteira, Vilanova, Padrón. I planned to do it a bit differently, because of being "off stage" and did a long day to Combarro, (which was lovely!) with the intention of getting to Ribadumia the next day, and Vilanova the next. At the tourist office in Pontevedra, they assured me that there were places to stay in Ribadumia. Google said there were places to stay. At the monastery in Armenteira, they said I could find places to stay in Ribadumia. Guess what? Nowhere to stay in Ribadumia. A hotel was built but never authorized by the new gov't to open. A camino angel gave me a ride to Vilanova, because I'd been hiking about 6-7 hours already, and Vilanova was another 4-5 away (if I'm recalling distances right). So Combarro is beautiful and quaint if you get off the main road down by the water in the old city, and I shared a very nice room at a decent price with another pilgrim, but from there, it's either a very short stage to Armenteira or a very long one to Vilanova. Having said that, I HIGHLY recommend the Variante Espiritual - the Camino de Agua and Piedras was hands down the most breathtakingly beautiful part of the camino for me, and I met wonderful people along that path. From Vilanova, it's either a flat long trek to Padron right along the highway or a spectacularly beautiful raft ride up the Río Ulla, following the path that legend says St. James' remains made their way to Santiago. I forget the #, but 23 or 26 stone crosses to the Saint have been erected along the way, and they appear mystically and awe-inspiringly out of the fog as you make your way up in the early morning. Take the river!!
 
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Kari, what was wrong with Os Castanos in Ribadumia. It has rooms. At least it did in May of 2016.
 
Kari, what was wrong with Os Castanos in Ribadumia. It has rooms. At least it did in May of 2016.
I asked two different local people and they both said they knew of nowhere to stay. The first person pointed me to the hotel which never opened, and the 2nd, a local who lived there, is the one who told me that it had never opened and explained it was a problem with the old gov't building it and the new gov't not liking it. I was there in Sept. of 2016. Don't know if it had closed by then or if somehow the locals didn't know it existed.
 
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Walking Notes from the CSJ Guide - www.csj.org.uk PLEASE ADD ANY OTHER DETAILS

Variante Espiritual
Stage 1
Pontevedra – Poio – Combarro – Armenteira. Approximately 24 kms.

Leaving Pontevedra

Leave Pontevedra from the Praza Peregrina into the neighbouring Praza Ourense. Keep to the Left along the Rúa Soportales and at the next small plaza head over Right to the Rúa Real. KSO towards the river and to cross turn Left, onto the Rúa da Ponte, and then immediately Right and cross the Puente del Burgo.

At the end of the bridge cross straight over the road and shortly turn Left and then Right into the Rúa da Santiña. At the mini-roundabout veer Left then, later, Right onto the Rúa Gandara. From here the route is very straightforward moving through leafy paths and minor roads. Pass a fuente on your Left then, further along, pass under the railway, to your Right. 2.7 kms

Here there is a sign for the “Variante Espiritual”, taking you Left. This is a modern detour based on the legend that the body of Saint James was brought in a stone boat to Galicia, it is claimed, by the estuary of Arousa and the river Ulla to Iria Flavia (now Padrón). Walking notes below. More info:www.osalnes.com/descargas/web/traslatio.pdf.

The stage is well waymarked. First, follow the arrows on minor roads, then through fields and trees, to the Church of San Pedro de Campaño. 3 kms. Here there is a hotel and two restaurants. Continue, through houses and trees, and passing the “Valoriza” factory, till you reach the main road and a large roundabout. 3 kms. On your Left is the Monastery of Poio. In addition to the Church and Monastery, there is accommodation and a cafeteria here.

The route continues on roads and paths through houses and trees, until you pass through a sports complex and head down to the Left, to walk alongside the seafront. Returning to a main road, ignore the arrows across the road in front of you. Instead, turn Left and follow the arrows along the side of this busy road. Just before the road bends Left, follow the waymark down to the Left, to the waterfront again, and continue into the centre of Combarro. 4 kms. In this delightful little seaside town, there are shops, bars and restaurants.

It is a good place in which to stop to eat. Before leaving Combarro, stock up on water, and perhaps an energy bar, for the climb ahead, which is steady mostly, but steep as well at times. Looking back as you climb you will be rewarded with excellent views.

To leave Combarro, cross over the main road and go up through the houses on the other side. Follow the direction of the arrows, climbing steadily, on the Camiño Rodondo, Esperón and Vilar, until you come to a Camino noticeboard. 6 kms. For the next 6 kms you continue to climb steadily, on country roads and wide forest pathways. Eventually, turn Right onto a main road then, after only 200 metres, turn Left off it again. The last 2 kms of this stage goes downhill, partly on a steep, narrow path. At the bottom of the path, follow the road down to the Right and into Armenteira, where there is an Albergue, the Monastery of Amenteira and two bar-restaurantes.

Albergue de Armenteira, Casa de la Cultura. 32 places.

Tel: 670 757 777 (Antonio).

Monasterio Cisterciense de Armenteira, Lugar de la Iglesia, s/n.
Tel: 627 097 696 (Hospedería - Hermana Lourdes).
Email:
info@monasteriodearmenteira.es.


Pousada Armenteira is open in summer:
http://www.pousadadearmenteira.com/EN/hotel.html
Tele: +34 986 716 372
Email
: info@pousadadearmenteira.com


Stage 2

Armenteira – Ruta de Piedra y Agua – Ruta del Rio Umia – Vilanova de Arousa. Approximately 28 kms.

Leaving Armenteira, following the waymarks, the first part of this stage follows the well established “Ruta da Pedra e da Agua” (the route of stones and water) – a lovely riverside walk. Care needs to be taken initially, as you are sometimes going downhill on stony paths. After 5 kms you come to a wayside Chapel and bar, which does not open early. However, a further 3 kms on, at the main road and roundabout, is the bar-restaurante “Os Castaños”.

Follow the arrows and waymarks across various roads here and, eventually, pass under a bridge to walk alongside the river on the “Ruta del Rio Umia”, the second part of this stage. KSO this riverside path for 3 kms, until you reach a main road. Turn Left along the road, then Right to continue alongside the river for another 3 kms. Come out at the flyover and take the wooden footbridge, Right, over the river. KSO. At a roundabout, go Left, cross a bridge, and then go Left again. KSO at another roundabout then, at the next one, veer Right. Pass a Variante Espiritual information board on your Left, before the road bends round to the Right. These last 2 kms, on roads, have taken you through Ponte Arnelas and Gombra, and towards Mouzas. The bars that you pass here are the last ones till Vilanova.

Shortly after the road bends round to the Right, follow the sign off Left, onto a path which goes round behind houses. Continue on this path. After 2.5 kms you begin to climb steadily, but not steeply, for about 2.5 kms, until you come out at more houses. Go down through the houses, and cross the main road into Cores. Continue on down through houses until you arrive at the seafront, where you turn Right to enter the start of Vilanova de Arousa. 4 kms.

To reach the Albergue and the departure point for the boat to Pontecesures the next day, pass under the bridge and continue walking along the seafront and beach, through trees, until you come to the footbridge. 3 kms. Cross the bridge. The departure point for the boat is on your Left, and the Albergue - which is housed in the Sports Centre - is round the road to the Right.

Albergue de Peregrinos Vilanova de Arousa, José Francisco González San Isidro, s/n (Pabellón de Deportes). 28 places.
Tel: 672 030 815 or 633 906 490.

In addition to the Albergue in Vilanova, there are several hotels, including:

Hotel Arco Iris*, Playa del Terrón, 12.
Tel: 986 555 444 or 986 555 319 or 669 847 643.
Email: h_arcoiris@hotmail.com.

Stage 3

Vilanova – Pontecesures. 1 hour by boat; walking approx 28 kms.

The Albergue in Vilanova has information about the boat and sailing times, which vary according to the tide. You need to consult with the hospitalero there, and make a reservation for a place on the boat, the night before travelling.

The walking route is waymarked, however be aware that walking from Vilanova to Pontecesures involves long stretches alongside main, and at times busy, roads. The distances between the principal towns enroute are:

Vilanova de Arousa to Vilagarcia de Arousa: 8 kms.

Vilagarcia de Arousa to Catoira: 11 kms.

There are trains from Vilagarcia de Arousa to Padrón and, less frequently, from Catoira to Padrón.

Catoira to Pontecesures: 9 kms.

In Pontecesures the trail merges with the Camino Portugués into Padrón and on to Santiago.
 
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Albergue de Armenteira, Casa de la Cultura. 14 places.

Tel: 670 757 777 (Antonio).

Hi, I am pretty sure this albergue has 32 beds now. When I stayed earlier this year there were 16 people staying, and we literally had a full bunk bed (top and bottom) each. (Amazingly, we were all women, so we could use both the male and female ablutions!)
Jill
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
and towards Mouzas. The bars that you pass here are the last ones till Vilanova.

Hi, not exactly. There is a bar as you cross the main road (the PO-549). And there is a beach bar very soon after you arrive at the seafront – just before you go under the big bridge – about 3kms before you get to Vilanova. (I stop at them all!)
Jill
 
1) There is a way to go to Poio via another bridge that makes the day out of Pontevedra shorter. It’s the way the tourism office sends people. As the « real » way is not much to talk about, this short cut may help those wanting to spend the night in Armenteira.

2) The monastery in Armenteria was not offering hospederia services on May 2016. Everyone was sent to the muni.

3) Yes, the muni has some 30 beds. 6 in one room, the rest in a common area.

4) While in armenteira, call both captains (numbers of the wall) to find out about ALL the boats leaving from Vilarousa the next day, and the day after. The albergue in Vilarousa only works with one captain only so you may be not be getting all the available flexibility. You may not have to spnd a night in Vilarousa if there’s an afternoon boat.

5) The walk from Armenteria to Vilarouse is 24 km, not 28. See the flyer that advertises the Variante.

6) There are bars and restaurants some 7km or so before Vilanova, after the 2km uphill and alk through the vineyards. One on the street your walk down as you make your way to the coast, others along the coast where there are campings.

7) Combarro is on of the most expensive places to vacation in Spain. In summer finding a bed there may be an issue.
 
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3) Yes, the muni has some 30 beds. 6 in one room, the rest in a common area.

I think they may have done some changes / renovations / upgrades ;), as a few months ago there were 16 beds down one side, and 16 beds done the other.
Here are the 16 beds down my side (just for the record :)):
20170605_204911Armenteira.webp

It was so cool being all women - we could dress and undress in gay abandon!
Jill
(P.S. We had a great evening out in the bar as well :cool:.)
 
Wow, they did do some renos. When I was there the bunk bds were lined up one after the other in two rows on the right hand side of the albergue, another few along the partition as you walked in, and the bed room.

The hospitalera popped in and brought us a pound cake she had made.

What I thought was brilliant in that albergue is the faucet under the bathroom sink (ther is no kitchen) so that you can easily fill up a large bottle.

Now, food... restaurant A Fonte has an excellent reputation in the region and beyond. Rumor has it many public figures go eat there when in the area.

As is common, there’s the bar/bocadillo section and also a formal dinning room. I walked in for a late lunch around 4 pm, had zamburinas. The large families at the other tables had bottles of orujo brought to them: clear, honey and coffee. When I enquired, (it was raining after all, I was in no hurry to get back to the albergue) I was also brought such bottles. Home made orujo is those pretty 500ml glass water bottles straight out of the freezer. And then my co-walkers came in for their late lunch. More orujo followed that, and little orujo was left by the time we walked out but that was never reflected in the bill.

A wonderful memory. Oh, we meant to attend vespers after our meal but instead we got treated to a mariage ceremony.

The nuns make a eucalyptus alcohol I think, but I did not taste it. They also make beautiful soaps.
 
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I was in contact with Os Castanos recently, with quick replies to e-mails.

Here is the informative reply I received,

El precio por noche de la habitación individual es de 25€ con el desayuno incluido.
Para ese día le podemos reservar una mesa para usted en el restaurante. Podemos hacerle un menú especial de 15€ (entrante, plato principal, bebida, postre y café) o bien platos de nuestra carta. Puede decidir el propio día en el momento.

Booking is confirmed when they receive your credit card number and name embossed on it.

oscastanos@oscastanos.es
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I have been in contact with the Monastery in Armenteira over this past week. People can stay there, but it needs to be for more than one night and they request that you participate in the life of the nuns; prayer, work etc. You wilk most likely need to book ahead as well. This is what I wanted so it works for me, but may not be what other pilgrims desire.
 
Does anyone know a safe way of getting from Ponte Arnelas to Cambados (Hotel Casa Rosita) where we are staying before we catch the boat the next day in Villanova?
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I am thinking of walking the variante espiritual in a year or two. Is there a book I could order which whould show me maps, distances, places to stay, etc.

So I walked the Varient Espiritual way out of Ponteverdra.
This is what I found out:
- You can get information with a map in the Information Office in Pontevedra
- This is a two full day walk with the third day of an early morning boat ride to Padron
- The distances are way off on the maps.
The first stage from Pontevedra to Armenteira is a very long 29 km (19 miles) instead of the 21 km it says on the map.
The second stage from Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa is 32 kn (20 miles) instead of the 24 km it says on the map.
- Out of Cambarro is a very steady up hill climb (I'm guessing about 14 - 15 miles). This stage is a lovely walk to the top of the mountian. The last two miles are very steep, rocky and slipery.
- Bring your own water and food. There are one or two places to stop if you get there at the times they are open.
- Given how few people are actually walking the Varient Espiritual Way on any given day, there are plenty of spots in the Albergue in Armenteira.
- There are a few resturants in Armentera which are about 1 mile from the albergue or you can cook what every you have in the albergue.
- The second day of walking is as follows:
About 1/3 is along a gently down sloaping river which was used in the middle ages for various waterworks. This is a lovely wooded area.
The second 1/3 is along a wider river with fewer trees and along a lot of farms/vineyards. Lovely
The last 1/3 is split between suburbs and highway. When you get to the coast and beach area, you have 2-3 miles to go before getting to the foot bridge.
- The albergue in Vilanova de Arousa is housed in the city sports complex. There are plenty of spots for everyone who walked that day. When you check into the albergue, you can buy your boat ticket for the next day at the same time. Make sure that the albergue volunteer puts the right date on your ticket (he put the wrong date on mine and I had a big problem getting on the boat.)
- Once in Padron, go to the Information Center on the N-550 and your certificate called "Pedronia." This is something which few people have.
- Remember that by tradition going up the Rio Ulla is how St. James remains was transported from Palestine to Spain. In the church in Pardon is the padron - the mooring post which by tradition St. James' boat was moored.
 
Your numbers are WAY OUT!!!!!!!!

I have walked the Variante Espiritual three times, so I know what I'm talking about.

29 kms from Pontevedra to Armenteira? It's around 21.

14 to 15 miles of the steep climb out of Combarro??????????? It might seem long, and it certainly is tough, but it's much closer to 10 kms total than the amazing figure you suggest.
 
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I am thinking of walking the variante espiritual in a year or two. Is there a book I could order which whould show me maps, distances, places to stay, etc.
Having just walked this route and loved it, I wish I had slowed down after leaving Pontevedra and had and spent some time in Combarra. There are reasonably priced accommodations and the village is delightful with huge amounts of history. But I felt I should move ahead. It would have made a nice leisurely walk over the hill the next day to Armenteira.
Albergue in Armenteira very modern. Note there is no where to buy groceries there. The restaurant about 500 meters away from the albergue is fine but not that convenient for breakfast in the early morning.
Do NOT walk from Armenteira in the dark as many do or you will miss the beautiful scenery!
 
Your numbers are WAY OUT!!!!!!!!

I have walked the Variante Espiritual three times, so I know what I'm talking about.

29 kms from Pontevedra to Armenteira? It's around 21.

14 to 15 miles of the steep climb out of Combarro??????????? It might seem long, and it certainly is tough, but it's much closer to 10 kms total than the amazing figure you suggest.


Well I only go by what my step counter said. My husband's step counter was close to mine. I know that everyone who stayed in the Albergue in Armenteira was complaining that the distance indicated in the pamphlet was way off. Any way, for me it was a long but beautiful day of walking.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I asked two different local people and they both said they knew of nowhere to stay. The first person pointed me to the hotel which never opened, and the 2nd, a local who lived there, is the one who told me that it had never opened and explained it was a problem with the old gov't building it and the new gov't not liking it. I was there in Sept. of 2016. Don't know if it had closed by then or if somehow the locals didn't know it existed.
I was told there was nowhere. I couldn't find anywhere, and asked in a bar/cafe just off the camino and again in the town - nada. Maybe people misinformed me, but they were locals. So no clue.
 
I found that using whatever search engine you use write your route will bring about maps, albergues, cafes or everything you need. I have downloaded maps and information with out paying for guide books.
 
Hello :)

I'm gonna walk Camino Portugues (Porto-SdC) at the end of April 2019. Because I only have 12 days to walk, I'm making my own plan (not following etapas on Gronze). I really wanna do Variant Espiritual, so I was wondering...is it possible to walk from Pontevedra to Armenteira the first day and then the second day I would walk from Armenteira to Vilanova and ON THE SAME DAY I'd take a boat- ride to Pontecesures (and sleep there). Is that possible? (or does the boat only leave in the morning hours?). In the Walking Notes from the CSJ Guide someone posted above it says:
''The Albergue in Vilanova has information about the boat and sailing times, which vary according to the tide. You need to consult with the hospitalero there, and make a reservation for a place on the boat, the night before travelling.''
Is it possible to go on a boat without a reservation?

What about the difficulty of the stages at the Variante Espiritual? It says low on the internet, but I wouldn't mind a second opinion :)

Thank u.
Solsito
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Hello :)

I'm gonna walk Camino Portugues (Porto-SdC) at the end of April 2019. Because I only have 12 days to walk, I'm making my own plan (not following etapas on Gronze). I really wanna do Variant Espiritual, so I was wondering...is it possible to walk from Pontevedra to Armenteira the first day and then the second day I would walk from Armenteira to Vilanova and ON THE SAME DAY I'd take a boat- ride to Pontecesures (and sleep there). Is that possible? (or does the boat only leave in the morning hours?). In the Walking Notes from the CSJ Guide someone posted above it says:
''The Albergue in Vilanova has information about the boat and sailing times, which vary according to the tide. You need to consult with the hospitalero there, and make a reservation for a place on the boat, the night before travelling.''
Is it possible to go on a boat without a reservation?

What about the difficulty of the stages at the Variante Espiritual? It says low on the internet, but I wouldn't mind a second opinion :)

Thank u.
Solsito
The departure of the boat depends on the tides; therefore, you need to check beforehand (a couple of days?).

The first time I walked this route I did Pontevedra to Ribadumia (Os Castaños) on the same day, but it's too much!

The difficult part of the route is the climb up from Combarro to Armenteira. If you take it slowly it's worth it for the incredible views back down to the ría, but it's no fun if the temperature is high!
 
Is it possible to go on a boat without a reservation?

What about the difficulty of the stages at the Variante Espiritual? It says low on the internet, but I wouldn't mind a second opinion :)

Hi, you have to make a reservation, as you can’t board the boat without a ticket.

You can contact them directly to make the reservation:
http://www.bahiasub.com/es
Email: naviera@bahiasub.com
Naviera Bahia-Sub
+34 607 911 523
Fax: +34 986 730 373

When I did this for a small group they emailed the ticket and I had to print it out to show them when we boarded.

However, the times kept changing! It not only depends on the tides, but also the size of the boat. So you have to stay flexible with the times right up to the last minute. We were advised on the day before that our 10am boat would have to leave at 7am, as they had changed it from the small boat to the large boat. This route is now very popular!

They said that they could also put the boat on at 7pm, but the pilgrims didn't like that, as they arrived in Padron too late, so I don't think they sail late afternoons very often, if at all.

You might get on the boat without a reservation, but I very much doubt it. It would be interesting to hear if anyone has done that.

The Variante Espiritual is not difficult. There is a 400m climb between Combarro and Armenteira, but we just took it slowly. The rest is easy.
Jill
 
Hi, you have to make a reservation, as you can’t board the boat without a ticket.

You can contact them directly to make the reservation:
http://www.bahiasub.com/es
Email: naviera@bahiasub.com
Naviera Bahia-Sub
+34 607 911 523
Fax: +34 986 730 373

When I did this for a small group they emailed the ticket and I had to print it out to show them when we boarded.

However, the times kept changing! It not only depends on the tides, but also the size of the boat. So you have to stay flexible with the times right up to the last minute. We were advised on the day before that our 10am boat would have to leave at 7am, as they had changed it from the small boat to the large boat. This route is now very popular!

They said that they could also put the boat on at 7pm, but the pilgrims didn't like that, as they arrived in Padron too late, so I don't think they sail late afternoons very often, if at all.

You might get on the boat without a reservation, but I very much doubt it. It would be interesting to hear if anyone has done that.

The Variante Espiritual is not difficult. There is a 400m climb between Combarro and Armenteira, but we just took it slowly. The rest is easy.
Jill
When I first walked the Variante, it was just starting and there were hardly any others on the route. Now, especially given the massive overcrowding on the second most popular Camino, the Portugués, more and more people are using this alternative. I love both of them: the 'normal' Camino and the Variante. The problem now seems to be that there is serious competition in Vilanova, as it's clear that there is a lucrative market for some people with a small boat or launch!

The second time I went by boat, just as we were ready to leave a party of eight Canadians turned up without warning. Joaquín managed to get three of them on board (without a previous reservation) and after taking us to Pontecesures he zoomed back to Vilanova to pick up the rest.

As I said in my earlier post, the climb up from Combarro is pretty tough, but if you take it slowly it really is spectacular. There's a miradoiro two thirds of the way up, with amazing views back down to the ría.

I would recommend taking some time out in Combarro, a beautifully picturesque fishing village, instead of just heading up the hill.

If anyone gets the chance, stay in Os Castaños instead of the albergue.
 
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I agree with previous posts, in case you want yet another opinion. The only difficult part of the V.E. is the climb out of Combarro. I happened to reserve the last seat on the boat for the next morning, and it was a 7 am departure. I'd be surprised if you could reach Vilanova and get on the boat the same day. Having said that, 12 days is more than enough to do that route, even without needing to do Armenteira > Vilanova > boat > Padron in just one day. I'd estimate most people do it in 10, tops 11 days.
 

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