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I believe there are two options for private rooms in Roncesvalles at hotels. La Posada is one.
Count me in, too. I have chosen the Valcarlos route twice and appreciated seeing a larger variety of terrain, and interesting things along the way; also more tranquility with few people.
I walked it in April 2015 and enchanting is a great word you used to describe it! We too, only had two additional pilgrims sleeping in the albergue.
I stayed in valcarlos mid-may this year. we were two pilgrims in the albergue and a third was carted in at about midnight by the police. it was a malaysian guy, I think, who was spotted still climbing to roncesvalles at 23h by some locals who alerted the cops who picked him up and brought him back to valcarlos.
You are spot on with your description! The folk that walk the Napoleon get their climb on Day 1. For those on the Valcarlo…they get their not insignificant workout on Day 2. It’s no ‘walk in the park’; but it is quite beautiful, and is a fantastic walk. Weather on the Napoleon forced my wife and I to head to Valcarlos in late October last year. I’d definitely go this way again…very impressed.I stayed in valcarlos mid-may this year. we were two pilgrims in the albergue and a third was carted in at about midnight by the police. it was a malaysian guy, I think, who was spotted still climbing to roncesvalles at 23h by some locals who alerted the cops who picked him up and brought him back to valcarlos.
the route through valcarlos village has been rerouted and now almost completely bypasses the village itself (and the fountain! in the playground), reaching the main road at the last restaurant (which was closed in may). the albergue is also not indicated from the route despite being practically above it.
when you finally drag yourself up that super steep climb from the torrent to the fronton, look right up to a (spruce?) grove and a big white modern building above it, with some stairs leading to it. the door on top of the stairs is the albergue door.
there is a code to get inside the albergue. there is a phone on the door for the hospitalero who speaks basque and quite incomprehensible spanish. I had to procure the help of two local teachers to get the code right. (it was the # that was giving us problems.) and then we discovered the door was open.
I liked the valcarlos route but it was also a lot on asphalt, especially the first part, with no grassy shoulders like on the orisson route. until valcarlos there were two more water spots (one at a farm before arneguy and one at the arneguy cemetery after the village) and the blocked sections have all been cleared.
the second part from valcarlos to roncesvalles was a lot better, even with the main road walking, especially the lovely path along the torrent after ganecoleta and the forest road before the steep climb.
the old fountain at the end of valcarlos was no longer operating and I saw no fountain in ganecoleta, but there was a working fountain after the big steep climb, on the main road, where the route leaves it for the last climb (not too steep but sunny) to ibaneta.
for me, the valcarlos route is more difficult then the orisson route altitude-gain-wise. yes, there is a lot of height gain on the orisson route but once you are up there, you stay there. whereas on the first part of the valcarlos route you constantly go up and down and up and down, and the ups are pretty steep. and only then you get to the main climb!
it is now recommended to descent from col de lepoeder (on the orisson route) by the road which is not that steep and offers safer walking.
I remember the door being at the lowest level but that was in 2015 and some changes may have been made. Anyway, here's some more help to find the Valcarlos albergue, its Gronze webpage and the Google Maps page for it which has the map, satellite view, photos of the exterior and interior, phone number and other information.
Haven't walked the Valcarlos route, only the Napoleon twice and it is HARD! Have stayed in Borda, Burgete and Roncesvalles and would recommend Burguete. Beautiful little town and the short flat empty walk along the shaded path with the sun shining from Roncesvalles to Burgete at the end of an arduous day made my heart sing
that's the view you get from the route when you reach the level of the fronton.Albergue municipal de Valcarlos | Albergue de Peregrinos en Valcarlos / Luzaide | Gronze.com
Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue municipal de Valcarlos, en Valcarlos / Luzaide: Precio, plazas, características, etc...www.gronze.com
Hmmm… now I’m thinking about Borda/ Burguete.
um, don't be discouraged by that view. it's a view of the albergue from the camino - for the purposes of spotting it right away and not needing to make a whole roundabout of the village because it's not indicated from the camino. the view from the albergue is much nicer, I promise! and the views from the route up the valley and up the sides of the valley and of the woods are also nicer!
Yes. There are a few videos on YouTube that show the view from the albergue and also the interior of it.
I have just returned from walking to Croix de Thibault on the Route Napoleon. I am 68 with average fitness. There were people older and also overweight people walking. I decided to stay 2 nights in SJPDP because it was my first day and I was unsure of my fitness. Now I realise I could have made it all the way to Roncesvalles. I would recommend this route when the weather is good. The views are spectacular. There is a mini bus service from SJPDP that can pick you up from a number of places along the route as far as the cross. Pre book this service before you leave. On the approach to Roncesvalles a friend warned me today of a diversion of 4.2km. The Camino route is 3.6km and steep descent signs. He took the 3.6 and said the descent was brutal while recommending I try the 4.2km diversion. The crowds weren’t too bad. A very pleasant walk.
Descriptions, maps and pictures to help you find the less steep way can be found on the following thread:
this alternative descent is also clearly marked on the paper map given out at the sjpp pilgrim office. in fact, it is marked as the primary descent.
