Traffic from Lisbon to Porto

[urbanhiker]

Hi,
I am doing the Camino Portuguese in Sept. 2014 and was curious, or concerned, about highway walking on the Camino from Lisbon to Porto. It seems like I have read a lot about how unsafe it could possibly be. Of course observing all the laws and not doing anything out of the ordinary, should one be concerned about all the highway walking, if there is in fact a lot of it. I walked the Camino Frances a couple of years ago and the highway walking there didn't seem too bad. Anyone out there who can give me a little insight as to what to expect?

Thanks,
Ray

 

[Magwood]

Hi Ray. Yes, you need to be a aware and concerned about walking on the roads. I was very fortunate that when I walked in May this year, I just happened by chance to be walking the busiest stretches on a Saturday and Sunday, so although it wasn't particularly pleasant walking on the roads, there wasn't much traffic at the weekend and I didn't feel intimidated. With this knowledge, I would definitely try to plan the walk from Vilafranca de Xira to fall over the weekend if possible.

The day that I found most intimidating was from Porto to Vilarinho, which involved lots of walking on a narrow but very fast road with no shoulder. The car drivers were quite respectful and would pull out if possible, but the big lorries didn't deviate from their path and it was very scary. I wished that I had a reflective vest and a reflective flag to attach to my walking pole. Many times I would wave my arms at vehicles to make them more aware of me.

The problem is not with the major roads, which will have a shoulder for walking on, but the minor roads that are busy and alarmingly fast. I also felt extremely intimidated when having to cross the very major N550 a few times. It is so difficult to move quickly when wearing a backpack.

It can't be denied that there is a great deal of road walking on this camino. However this didn't detract from my overall enjoyment of the route. There is so much to see. The countryside, woodland and agricultural areas are beautiful and many of the towns and cities are very interesting. You could check out my blog here, which gives lots of useful information about walking conditions and accommodation, and also ways to cut down the long stages into more manageable distances.

Don't let the road walking on this route put you off, it is a great camino and I'm sure you will love it!

Bom caminho!

 

[michryan]

Hi Ray. Yes, you need to be a aware and concerned about walking on the roads. I was very fortunate that when I walked in May this year, I just happened by chance to be walking the busiest stretches on a Saturday and Sunday, so although it wasn't particularly pleasant walking on the roads, there wasn't much traffic at the weekend and I didn't feel intimidated. With this knowledge, I would definitely try to plan the walk from Vilafranca de Xira to fall over the weekend if possible.

The day that I found most intimidating was from Porto to Vilarinho, which involved lots of walking on a narrow but very fast road with no shoulder. The car drivers were quite respectful and would pull out if possible, but the big lorries didn't deviate from their path and it was very scary. I wished that I had a reflective vest and a reflective flag to attach to my walking pole. Many times I would wave my arms at vehicles to make them more aware of me.

The problem is not with the major roads, which will have a shoulder for walking on, but the minor roads that are busy and alarmingly fast. I also felt extremely intimidated when having to cross the very major N550 a few times. It is so difficult to move quickly when wearing a backpack.

It can't be denied that there is a great deal of road walking on this camino. However this didn't detract from my overall enjoyment of the route. There is so much to see. The countryside, woodland and agricultural areas are beautiful and many of the towns and cities are very interesting. You could check out my blog here, which gives lots of useful information about walking conditions and accommodation, and also ways to cut down the long stages into more manageable distances.

Don't let the road walking on this route put you off, it is a great camino and I'm sure you will love it!

Bom caminho!

Thanks again Magwood. I to am walking at the end of September this year from Lisbon I have noted down the busy sections. From a pervious post I saw I thought I might even consider from Porto heading out to the coast to Matosinhos and go that way for a bit till Vila do Conde then head back in. You didn't do that way on your last trip did you? I was following your blog which was exciting to read. Any other sections should we be aware of?

 

[Former member 22438]

Hi,
I am doing the Camino Portuguese in Sept. 2014 and was curious, or concerned, about highway walking on the Camino from Lisbon to Porto. It seems like I have read a lot about how unsafe it could possibly be. Of course observing all the laws and not doing anything out of the ordinary, should one be concerned about all the highway walking, if there is in fact a lot of it. I walked the Camino Frances a couple of years ago and the highway walking there didn't seem too bad. Anyone out there who can give me a little insight as to what to expect?

Thanks,
Ray

I aggree with Magwood.
Some tips. We skipped day 3, Alverca de Ribatejo to Azambuja and took the train. 30 kms avoiding the dangerous traffic passing you all the time
We used safetyvests and during rain a blinking ledlight to attract cardrivers that we were walking at the hard shoulder of the road.

We walked the detour from Porto Matosinhos to Vila do Conde and São Pedro de Rates to Barcelos and I must admit I do not understand why all guides mention the Vilarinho route primerly. The detour is far better and is beatiful along the river Douro and the coastline.

 

[amorfati1]

Walked the Portuguese four weeks in May - train from Lisbon to Castaneihra di Ribatejo (spelling is off) walked onwards to Azambuja - with the note to self "should have taken train all the way to Azambuja".
The roadside walking was dangerous and unpleasant. Plenty of dead rotting dogs in the wayside ditch that gave their very smelly testimonial to that fact of life.
After Azambuja the walk began without such noisy and fast hazards and was lovely and a delight to me. (one poster from the UK recently aptly described Portuguese drivers having only two speeds: "Fast" and "Bloody Fast". Couldn't agree more)
In Porto, where I stayed two nights, I joined two other pilgrims, and we took the bus #500 to Matasinho (last stop) - crossed the bridge and went along side the Atlantic for much of the days walk. Perfect weather, little wind (but very pesky tiny flies that swarmed about in 'attack mode' ever so often and made me feel i am back in a tropical jungle. not amusing!) and great walking on those boardwalks.
Was a splendid day. We ended up in Vila do Conde - and the next day I went off back inland, overnighted in Rates.
I have spoken to pilgrims who walked from Catedrale Se in Porto ... and were dismayed to experience just how rough, unappealing and dangerous that route was and wished they had known about the option to take the bus or metro out of Porto.
And the ones who knew about bus/metro option and still walked ... was none too pleased with themselves that they put themselves through it and would not do it again.
But of course, I did not speak to all pilgrims, and there probably are pilgrims who did not mind the busy asphalt roads or took it in stride (no pun intended).
You know yourself best and what you are able and willing to handle/endure ...
hint: perhaps you can visualize walking from Pasadena via downtown LA towards the Westside - alongside Wilshire or the I-10. If you are okay with that, while carrying the backpack on a hot day, you perhaps won't mind walking out of Lisboa or Porto.
On the Caminho there is lots of asphalt walking, no doubt. And there are also incredible woodland trails, farm/field tracks and other paths that are a marvel.
You probably enjoy those sights alot!
I took with me two set of insoles: one Montrail and another set of silicone insoles. And alternated those when needed. Thought of it as switching winter tyres and summer tyres
By a host I was told about a pilgrim who had two sets of shoes with him: one for trail walking, and the other for asphalt.
People come up with various solutions to make it work .... good luck in finding yours!
and Bom Caminho !
September is my favorite time in Portogallo --- and the Vinho Verde will taste sooo good and refreshing!
very best wishes,
Claudia

Fotos were taken on caminho alongside Atlantico.

 

[musicman]

Avoid heavy traffic by going all the way along the coast; I did it solo last September- marvellous experience and no dead dogs!

 

[Dutch]

I walked from Porto cathedral to Vilarinho. This was the worst walk out of any city, EVER!! It makes Leon, Burgos, Pamplona all look like a walk in the park, even combined!

If you can, avoid this walk and go via the coastal route Porto - Vila do Conde and then inland.
Like Magwood said, the Porto - Vilarinho route is a dangerous walk. Dont, just dont walk it.

 

[Former member 22438]

Walked the Portuguese four weeks in May - train from Lisbon to Castaneihra di Ribatejo (spelling is off) walked onwards to Azambuja - with the note to self "should have taken train all the way to Azambuja".
The roadside walking was dangerous and unpleasant. Plenty of dead rotting dogs in the wayside ditch that gave their very smelly testimonial to that fact of life.
After Azambuja the walk began without such noisy and fast hazards and was lovely and a delight to me. (one poster from the UK recently aptly described Portuguese drivers having only two speeds: "Fast" and "Bloody Fast". Couldn't agree more)
In Porto, where I stayed two nights, I joined two other pilgrims, and we took the bus #500 to Matasinho (last stop) - crossed the bridge and went along side the Atlantic for much of the days walk. Perfect weather, little wind (but very pesky tiny flies that swarmed about in 'attack mode' ever so often and made me feel i am back in a tropical jungle. not amusing!) and great walking on those boardwalks.
Was a splendid day. We ended up in Vila do Conde - and the next day I went off back inland, overnighted in Rates.
I have spoken to pilgrims who walked from Catedrale Se in Porto ... and were dismayed to experience just how rough, unappealing and dangerous that route was and wished they had known about the option to take the bus or metro out of Porto.
And the ones who knew about bus/metro option and still walked ... was none too pleased with themselves that they put themselves through it and would not do it again.
But of course, I did not speak to all pilgrims, and there probably are pilgrims who did not mind the busy asphalt roads or took it in stride (no pun intended).
You know yourself best and what you are able and willing to handle/endure ...
hint: perhaps you can visualize walking from Pasadena via downtown LA towards the Westside - alongside Wilshire or the I-10. If you are okay with that, while carrying the backpack on a hot day, you perhaps won't mind walking out of Lisboa or Porto.
On the Caminho there is lots of asphalt walking, no doubt. And there are also incredible woodland trails, farm/field tracks and other paths that are a marvel.
You probably enjoy those sights alot!
I took with me two set of insoles: one Montrail and another set of silicone insoles. And alternated those when needed. Thought of it as switching winter tyres and summer tyres
By a host I was told about a pilgrim who had two sets of shoes with him: one for trail walking, and the other for asphalt.
People come up with various solutions to make it work .... good luck in finding yours!
and Bom Caminho !
September is my favorite time in Portogallo --- and the Vinho Verde will taste sooo good and refreshing!
very best wishes,
Claudia

Fotos were taken on caminho alongside Atlantico.

Hey Claudia I fully agree with you concerning the detour alongside the coast

We walked from Sé and alongside the Douro river and the Atlantic coast to Matosinhos which is a great walk. You know it by bus. Is about the same route.

Are you from Pasadena ?
We have relatives in San Gabriel and visited them some times.

Best regards from the Netherlands

 

[amorfati1]

Hey Claudia I fully agree with you concerning the detour alongside the coast

We walked from Sé and alongside the Douro river and the Atlantic coast to Matosinhos which is a great walk. You know it by bus. Is about the same route.

Are you from Pasadena ?
We have relatives in San Gabriel and visited them some times.

Best regards from the Netherlands

ola' Albertinho - and regards right back to you !!

it is truly quite a lovely route - a pe' or by bus - to see the river douro like this was fine and a marvelous start for the route along the atlantico. (one day I shall return and take a river boat tour up the Douro ....!)

no, i am from switzerland, but lived in LA area many years ago ..... and traveled by and through the San Gabriel mountains often. (have you ever experienced the Santa Ana winds?) now i am in northern CAL ...
best wishes, Claudia

 

[Former member 22438]

ola' Albertinho - and regards right back to you !!

it is truly quite a lovely route - a pe' or by bus - to see the river douro like this was fine and a marvelous start for the route along the atlantico. (one day I shall return and take a river boat tour up the Douro ....!)

no, i am from switzerland, but lived in LA area many years ago ..... and traveled by and through the San Gabriel mountains often. (have you ever experienced the Santa Ana winds?) now i am in northern CAL ...
best wishes, Claudia

Claudia gruetzi!

We are talking about going to California to see the family again. The Santa Ana winds I missed. A Dutch popular popsong says I still have a lot to do.i have to do the triple jump on the moon, I have to see the sunset in Japan, I have to swim in the Pacific ocean ...and so forth..what can a man do in his life ? So probably I can combine swimming in the Pacific with the Santa Ana winds.

We'll come back next year to Porto to walk from Póvoa da Varzím to Santiago.
If you like to sail in Portugal. About 80 km north of Porto is the beautiful town of Aveiro,also called Venice of Portugal. Worthwhile visiting

Adé

 

[KatWanderlust]

Everyone's comments here are spot on, I walked in October last year and have very similar feedback. If I was to walk this Way again I'd definitely look at the Coastal route based on the praise from others above!

Urbanhiker I highly recommend taking the Metro out of Porto based on what others have said about that walk being quite tough. A tip though when leaving is to try and avoid the peak hour, we were crammed in with the workers and school kids and it was tough with our backpacks.

If you're thinking about the inland route don't let the road walking deter you! It was a bit scary yes, you need to have your whits about you and it was quite tiring at times. It's just common sense, don't walk with an iPod in, be vigilant, look, listen and try to wear colourful clothing if possible. Despite the roads all the other wonderful experiences of Portugal far, far outweighed this - I must mention the people especially. The scenery, food, wine, architecture and culture is truly wonderful but the Portuguese people are so lovely, kind and friendly they made this Camino a really unique and special experience! I still miss it every day

 

[Urban Trekker]

Urbanhiker, Urban Trekker here. Leaving Lisbon on the 4th by train to Porto then to coast for a few day ten on to Santiago. When are you starting your Caminho. Maybe are paths will cross. Bon Caminho. Urban T

 

[urbanhiker]

Urban trekker,
We will be begin walking on Friday, Sept 12. We will start at the Expo in Lisbon and not the church. This will save us a few miles on the first day. We plan on walking to Vila Franca de Xira on that day. We will walk for several weeks. From Porto we will also do the coast route. Have a super camino.
Urbanhiker

 

[Magwood]

@urbanhiker, be aware that this stage involves long stretches without shade. It was quite an issue at the beginning of May, let alone in July. Make an early start and take plenty of water and maybe a scarf that you can wet and wrap around your head (or an umbrella for a sun shade)

And you won't be disappointed if you stop at the cafe in Sacavém for breakfast. Say hello to the lovely Odete for me.

Here is my blog post that stage -
http://wp.me/p3azEo-FW

Bom caminho!

 

[Former member 22438]

@urbanhiker, be aware that this stage involves long stretches without shade. It was quite an issue at the beginning of May, let alone in July. Make an early start and take plenty of water and maybe a scarf that you can wet and wrap around your head (or an umbrella for a sun shade)

And you won't be disappointed if you stop at the cafe in Sacavém for breakfast. Say hello to the lovely Odete for me.

Here is my blog post that stage -
http://wp.me/p3azEo-FW

Bom caminho!

Happy memories @Magwood!

 

[shubertj]

Hi,
I am doing the Camino Portuguese in Sept. 2014 and was curious, or concerned, about highway walking on the Camino from Lisbon to Porto. It seems like I have read a lot about how unsafe it could possibly be. Of course observing all the laws and not doing anything out of the ordinary, should one be concerned about all the highway walking, if there is in fact a lot of it. I walked the Camino Frances a couple of years ago and the highway walking there didn't seem too bad. Anyone out there who can give me a little insight as to what to expect?

Thanks,
Ray

Ray,
When do you leave Lisbon my wife and I plan on leaving on Sept 5 maybe we will run into you.
Jack

 

[urbanhiker]

Ray,
When do you leave Lisbon my wife and I plan on leaving on Sept 5 maybe we will run into you.
Jack

Hello Jack,

We will be leaving Lisbon on Friday Sept 12, a few days after you. We plan on arriving in Santiago on the 8th of Oct. Hope you have a super Camino.
Ray