The Voie Littorale: Soulac to Hendaye then onto Camino Del Norte

[Jobieco]

Hi all Caminophiles
Just wondering if some of you may have walked this route, The Voie Littorale: Soulac to Hendaye then onto Camino Del Norte.
Following my successful VDLP stroll this year, I am thinking of walking again in 2015.
Would love any information that fellow pilgrims may have.
Joanne

 

[AJ]

Hi all Caminophiles
Just wondering if some of you may have walked this route, The Voie Littorale: Soulac to Hendaye then onto Camino Del Norte.
Following my successful VDLP stroll this year, I am thinking of walking again in 2015.
Would love any information that fellow pilgrims may have.
Joanne

I walked the Voie Littorale this year. I have also walked the VdlP. I much preferred the VdlP.

 

[mla1]

Hi AJ -- What was the Voie Littorale like?

 

[mikevasey]

Hi I walked from Parentis em Born last year which is about half way between Soulac and Hendaye and then went on to the Norte. The sections I walked until Soustons were mostly a mix of quiet country roads, cyclepaths and a lot of trail paths through forests, with a lot of (and I mean lot of) deer to keep me company. After Soustons there is a more urban mix to the walking, you head off to the coast and go through areas like Cap Breton and adjoining towns. I only walked this section because i was supposed to walk the Norte with 2 friends and we were going to head off into the Picos together, but when one of them fell ill I did not fancy going to into the Picos by myself with no previous hill or mountain walking experience and this seemed like a more quieter flatter alternative.
I enjoyed the sections of the Voie littoral I walked, it was a big change from anything which i had done before. The forest sections had a lot of proper trails with no other people seen for hours, and the open sections in them would be when some heathland was there instead of trees. There was very little height gain or loss, so until i got to the coast around Tarnos I never had an overview of the areas around me.

I used the CSJ guide www.csj.org.uk/route-overview-pages.htm -it is down loadable from the CSJ Site, it was invaluable to me, very accurate with directions in May of last year and made with a lot of love by the author Judy Smith.

Other sources of info are www.saint-jacques-aquitaine.com/index1.php and www.compostelle-landes.org/index.php?p=littoral&lng=fr and www.aucoeurduchemin.org/spip/spip.php?rubrique397

Accommodation was given on a list by one of the local associations which you are able to print over the internet, I can not remember the link or location but it is out there. At almost every stage there is a possibility of staying at accommodation for 10 euros a night, sometimes on a campsite or a caravan park or in one case a gite du pelerin. These vary in size and quality, you will have to ring ahead by at least one day. I do not speak French so someone would do it on my behalf- my camino angels. But for info I stayed at the following places. Parentis em Bom Hotel Lagon Bleu-55 euros, the designated location for pilgrims was shut I went to this next door- OK rooms but very friendly and speak English, if you go there ask if they still have my merino wool baselayer! Saint Paul Bom-Refuge du Pelerin donativo- I got to the marie just in time to get the keys, its just around the corner. Unless you want to eat in a restaraunt come stocked up, there is cooking facilities in the Refuge. There was a lovely register of people who had stayed, there was a couple two days ahead of me, but the foot traffic was was little, maybe 3-6 a month. One entry that stuck out for me was one by a English pilgrim who had walked from Leeds to the coast and then got a ferry to the continent and he had followed the coast around through france to there. His father had died and I think he had set off to Santiago with little money, the social club next door had taken care of him , and he was overjoyed you could feel it in his beautiful entry.

St Julien em bom - Chambres d' hote 30 euros, double room including breakfast pilgrim rate. My credencial entry gives it as 225 Rue des ecoles. Fabrice et Magali Laforce, lovely hosts they rang ahead for me for the next few days and got me onto the 10 euros a night rate.

I will give more details if you want them at later date but I have ran out of time where i am typing this, I got rid of my computer after my last camino.

Just to say it is very well signposted, with little stickers. I think the relevant associations go over it every spring.

Mike

 

[hecate105]

I have cycled it (northwards!) it is stunningly beautiful - and very flat! I loved the miles of empty beach, the pine forests and the trails - I did not enjoy the gigantic insects so much!
It is easy to wild camp (we did not know about any albergues) we occasionally found info at tourist offices, but not much. The Dune du Pyla is fantastic - the highest sand dune in Europe, you can climb to the top and see for miles! It gives a great insight into the terrain - the lakes, forest and villages you are travelling through. Be aware that prices in summer are terribly high for cold drinks etc. It is also on the edge of good wine country - so don't forget to sample the wares...

 

[mikevasey]

The other details i will give are that the paths in the forests are on a mix of sandy/ soil, these are very gentle to walk on. Only once did it go to far to the Sandy side and that was after Bias on the way to St Julien em Bom, this section was very hard and i could still feel my exhertions a couple of days later.

The section from Bayonne to Hendaye was not well marked in May 2012, but at Bidart you the option of jumping on to the coastal path this will lead you to the incredibly pretty St Jean de Luz sitting on its horseshoe bay.

Good Luck

Mike

 

[AJ]

I have little to add to what Mike has written. I used the same guide, some maps from the newsagency and tourist info offices. It is not a strenuous route and not especially interesting compared with other routes such as the VdlP. It is pleasant. If you have specific questions contact me via PM.

 

[mla1]

Thanks everyone for the information here. I had been wondering what this route is like! Love the idea of walking by the coast.

 

[MendiWalker]

Thanks everyone for the information here. I had been wondering what this route is like! Love the idea of walking by the coast.

You´ll love the coast, enjoy it!

Buen Camino!

 

[AJ]

Love the idea of walking by the coast.

If this is because you like the idea of walking next to the ocean, being able to see it most of the time, forget it. It's not like that because of the dune. Sure you do see the ocean from time to time, but mostly you do not.

 

[mikevasey]

Its not till after Bayonne that you get the option to walk along the coast. However in the forest areas there are a lot of lakes which the way goes around and some with campsites which you can stay at in static accommadation at the pilgrim rate. The CSJ guide i think does give details of where you can veer off to the coast , the tourist office at Parentis gave me a folletto guide which showed the Voie Littoral and links to the sea.

 

[Jobieco]

Hi Mikevasey
Thanks for the run down it was really informative. I have already downloaded the guide you speak of. Having walked the VDLP this year and realising I can walk along way I stumbled over this section and combined with del Norte I can get my distance fix. I am glad to hear that it is relatively easy & flat (although i was told VDLP was flat !), I am not the hugest of fans when it comes to hills. It should be a good warm up for del Norte. Well I have awhile before this may become a reality. Thank you again for the info.
Joanne

 

[MendiWalker]

Along the Camino del Norte the same thing happens. There will be moments you walk along the coast and see the sea and others which the Camino goes inland and you don´t. In any case it´s an awesome Camino.
Do enjoy!

Buen Camino!

 

[brookeshands]

hello! i know it has been a while since you were posting these questions, but i am now looking to walk solace to torso and then moving onto the north route.
which route did you end up making if you do not mind me asking?
i am a single woman walking alone and i am also looking to walk along what seems to be the coast. i am looking into the links posted above- but do you have anything to add or recommend?
thank you in advance!

 

[camino_rooky]

hello! i know it has been a while since you were posting these questions, but i am now looking to walk solace to torso and then moving onto the north route.
which route did you end up making if you do not mind me asking?
i am a single woman walking alone and i am also looking to walk along what seems to be the coast. i am looking into the links posted above- but do you have anything to add or recommend?
thank you in advance!

Presume you mean to walk Soulac to Tarnos ? Here are my notes from our experience ( myself and hubby ) of the Voie Littoral ( Sept 15th - 26th 2014 ) .

Sunday 14th : Flew Gatwick to Bordeaux. Delayed by 1 hour. Arrived 10.30pm. Taxi to Residence Otellie, Blanquefort. B&B 25€ p.p.

Monday 15th : breakfast 7am. Walked to train station. Train to Verdon 7.48am. 16€ p.p. Helpful woman in Tourist office gave us directions to the Chemin. Had a welcome beer at beach bar in Soulac sur Mer . Lunch on semi nudist beach after L'Amelie and a swim. Arrived Montalivet 6pm. Collected by Madame Sudre. Drink & Dinner en famille. Twin bedroom. Separate bathroom. Voluntary donation. 28km.

Tuesday 16th : breakfast 7.30am. Depart 8am for Hourtin Plage. Long straight path beside road. Swam then ate panini and chips in cafe. Passed by Contaut , Piqueyrot, Bombannes through forest on old cycle track to Maubuisson. Apartment with 2 bedrooms 25€ p.p. Ate in restaurant 16€ p.p. 40km ( lack of places to stay ).

Wednesday 17th : Late start 10am after shopping for breakfast. Coffee @ Carcans Plage . Lunch in Lacanau Ocean after shopping swim and beer. Stayed Villa Zenith in a little Swiss chalet 24€ p.p. Kitchen facilities. Ate in seafront cafe 15€ p.p. 12.5 km.

Thursday 18th : left 8.30am after toast and coffee in kitchen. Ribbon cycle path through forest. Long sandy stretches beside canal very soft and tiring to walk. Nowhere to refill water bottles until man at canoe depot obliged. More sandy stretches around oyster marshes into Ares. Stayed with Mme. Biensan. 25€p.p. B&B. Ate at restaurant near church 21€ p.p. 34.5km.

Friday 19th : Left 9.15am. Stopped for coffee after 4.5km in Andernos. Followed cycle track 10.5km to Audenge. Very straight and boring. Lunch in tapas cafe . Found wonderful sea pool to swim in - huge and free ! Walked 8km to Biganos. Stayed hotel Le Terminus 24€ p.p. Dinner 13€ p.p. 24km.

Saturday 20th : left 8.45am. Walked 10.5km long boring forest track . Then more tracks after disused airfield eventually brought us to 4km sandy track to lake at Sanguinet and swim. Stayed at Le Renardiere. Looked like a mini chateau ! Our room had a lovely balcony and double bed and private bathroom. 30€p.p. B&B. Dinner at restaurant in old hotel where Churchill stayed ! 24.5km.

Sunday 21st : left 8.45am after breakfast of bread,jam,croissants,juice and coffee. Foggy morning. Lost our way . Fog cleared and sun got very hot. Felt isolated and walked extra 4km on road into Parentis. Lunch at boulangerie. Browsed market. Walked to lake and stayed at Camping Pipiou in a "Tithome" ! 10€ p.p. Pool with slide ! Dinner in neighbouring campsite restaurant 9€p.p. 20km.

Monday 22nd : Left 9.10am. Walked path round lake to Resto hotel for coffee. Onto St. Paul en Born through forest and cornfields . Had full lunch menu 12.50€ inc. wine . Onto Mimizan and swim in lake then beer and room in Hotel Central 30€ p.p. B€B. Dinner 10€ p.p. Inc huge salad. 28.5km.

Tues 23rd : Breakfast juice, rolls, croissants and coffee. walked 8.5km to Bias for coffee. Forest paths not too sandy. Grassy tracks along river. Arrived Lit et Mixe 3pm. Stayed farm refuge ( lassale ) 10€ p.p. Caravan in a barn Very basic and cold but surprisingly good shower separately. Shopped for breakfast and lunch tomorrow. Dinner in restaurant in town ( 1.5km ) 13.50€ p.p. Dark walk back ! 30km.

Wednesday 24th : walked 4.5km on road from campsite then 3 km in forest. 7.9km on cycle track then 2.5km on forest road then 2.5km on more cycle track then 1 km forest track into nature reserve. Marshy but nice. Pilgrim plaques on bridge over river Courant. Long sandy track. Missed 1 turn had to backtrack. Old Knights Templar chapel in Maa. More woodland track into Moliets and farm with chambres d'hôte ( Mme. Lafitte ) 25€ p.p. B€B. Ate dinner in shady restaurant in town. 32km.

Thursday 25th : walked through town to woodland, fountain , lake , more woods , more lake , to Vieux Boucau les Bains for coffee beside canal / lake . Cycle track 10km to Seignoss Le Penon. Due to lack of time remaining , decided to catch bus near tourist office to Tarnos Plage. Walked 5km to campsite "la Foret des Landes" . 10€ p.p. In 2 bedroom chalet. Beer and shopping en route ! Lovely pool. Dinner in restaurant down the road very expensive 26€ p.p. 27km.

Friday 26th : up at 7.20am. Left before 9am after breakfast,showers,cleaning,packing,dressing. Walked through Metro Park to suburbs of Bayonne. Arrived Cathedral 11am. Got final stamp for Credencial and went for coffee in sun in plaza. Got Mass at 12 and got bus to airport at 12.39. Arrived airport 1pm. Lunched and lay in sun for 1 hour before changing and checking in for flight home to Dublin at 15.10pm. 10km.

Summary : mostly flat route but deep soft sand in places can be very tiring in hot weather. In high season there might be more places available to stay overnight therefore lessening the need for long days walking. Nice opportunities to swim in both sea and lake. Only met 1 other pilgrim walking but lots of cyclists going both directions.