Here is the English version, I tried to make a link, but ........ lol
Know the first tourst guide of the Middle Ages we must go without hesitation to Codex Calixtino, it can go all the gastronomic Spain ranging from the Pyrenean border to the city of Santiago de Compostela, is where sometimes biased way, and others with great reality, we can know the hospitality world of time and the germ of the whole industry and the eating habits of some of the major tourist powers today.
The aforementioned Codex Calixtino, named for being sponsored by Pope Callistus II, named Pope in 1119, is a work compiled by the French monk Aymerico Picaud, written in the twelfth century, believing now that several authors who were involved in its drafting, five books being composed, with the number five which we want to be the part devoted to the pilgrim's guide, all a reflection of life in the twelfth century.
The so-called French Way, which runs from Roncesvalles on the French border to Santiago de Compostela, is taken by all European pilgrims. As mentioned begins in Roncesvalles, where Charlemagne fought the greatest battle against the Moors and the rising of the most important romance of French literature, 'The Song of Roland', the equivalent of the 'Song of the Cid' in literature Spanish and I had to read when I was a student of the French school of Seville. Many years ago when I visited the monastery of Roncesvalles could see in his museum weapons left over from the battle, which were shown me, on a private visit, by a monk, robust man wielding the mace masterfully, and where I could touch. In this monastery in 1660 to the needy pilgrims and travelers were served a total of 25,000 food rations, consisting of half a pint of wine, broth, bread and meat unless it was Lent and haddock and eggs instead of meat when was this time. In 1791 over 20,000 food rations were served. Besides medical care, hairdressing and shelter in a totally altruistic way dispensed. The XIII century in a poem of Roncesvalles says the following: "The door is open to everyone, sick and healthy / not only Catholics, but still pagan / Jews, heretics, idle and vain / and briefly good and profane ". As can be seen a great example of good Christianity, will not always be criticizing the Catholic Church.
At first road infrastructure was marked by stages with rest in convents, later the military orders and the first inns were offering more comfort to travelers with greater purchasing power, as well as doing the easy way to build bridges and improve roads.
In it we read that Estella "is fertile in good bread, good wine, meat and fish, and full of all sorts of happiness" and on top of the water of the river that runs through the Ega, "is sweet, healthy and very good "All this is true today, except fish and water from its river, which is contaminated by the paper industry in the area and that when they first met on its surface swam a foam stinky, not less than a meter thick product from nearby industries, today with the sewage problem does not exist.
He also talks about Carrión, which tells us that "it is industrious town and very good and rich bread, wine, meat and all kinds of products." Generally considered to Navarra "Happy bread, wine, milk and cattle." Today Navarra is famous for its wines, for its trout, its mutton or their beans or beans, which are taken in Estella with quail and are delicious. Passing the river Ebro flavors and transformed into the wine region of Rioja, there chops roasted vine shoots, peppers, white asparagus and sausage Walker cheer the soul and where the wine aged in oak, heat subsides leaving in the stomach called 'joy' that are nothing but hot peppers.
When passing Castilla, returning to that Codex Calixtino, speaks of the Tierra de Campos as a place where "it is fertile in bread, wine, meat, fish, milk and honey", I have to add to what already said nine centuries its roasting ovens are wonderful, with particular emphasis on its rich piglet must be roasted to his twenty days old and they are called tostón, which, so tender, they break with the edge of a plate; without forgetting its lamb or kid, hard-to-forget if you have tasted. But not quite all there, if it rests on Santo Domingo de la Calzada will not forget to taste their chicken fricassee, already famous in times of that codex and which tradition resurrected on the plate governor, covered again with their feathers and sang when executed by the mother of a miscarriage of justice was to tell her that her son was hanged alive, to which answered the authority that was as dead as a hen he was eating.
The Codex Calixtino prevents theft and fraud in the inns, making a paragraph in the book 'Miracles' where that an innkeeper was hanged for theft fraud a German and child in Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
If you make the road today can taste some precious crabs Ebro river and do not forget to ask the famous arriero garlic because the surprise of not finding two equal meals throughout the tour will be, so many are the recipes or variants as they .
Celebrities have been the great royal hospital of Burgos as an Italian pilgrim named Domenico Laffi that could seat 2,000 people.
At León taste the sausage, among which jerky, ham made with the leg of a cow, and that surfeit keep bad memory on a trip I took to Astorga (León), where I visited your wonderful cathedral and the archbishop's palace which is immortal work of Gaudí. Also in León in the year 1084 Bishop Pelayo founded a house of hospitality for, as he prayed, "poor, crippled, blind, mute and pilgrims".
Nearing the end of the road, and in Galicia, we read in the Codex that their land is "pleasant by its rivers, meadows and orchards delicious, its good fruits and clarísimas sources" where "scarce wheat bread and wine abound rye bread and cider, in livestock and horses, milk and honey and very big and small fish of the sea ". Speaking of Galician cuisine is a non-stop for its variety and quality, is a paradise for soups, pots, stews and lacones, also its seafood, shellfish and fish transport us to make us good gourmet dreams. The end of the road, once in Santiago de Compostela, it is essential to take some scallops, whose shells are sewn or hang pilgrims to his chest and then taste the delicious pies and irrigate the stomach with white wine Albariño or rich Red Ribeiro, taken in cup and letting the pristine white of his stained purple enamel.
A delight, even for an agnostic like me, a cultural way of days visiting dreamy landscapes, living in hospices and monasteries and especially eating in an unforgettable gastronomic journey, what more can you ask ?, pilgrimage would only be a pretext .
But there is always a but, in the Codex Calixtino also speaks ill of gastronomy in Spain, a contradiction to the above in the book but did not resign myself to copy so you can make the culinary knowledge of the Middle Ages, specifically says: "If ever you eat in Spain and Galicia fish is commonly called catfish, or call the Poitou clipia alosa and Italians, or eel or tench, sure ill or die immediately. And if by chance there were those who ate and not sick, it is because or was healthier than others or remained long in the land. All fish and meat of cow and pig Spain and Galicia cause disease to foreigners ". Delicious this paragraph to study because more it seems that the author had to suffer gastroenteritis or salmonellosis, something very common in summer especially at a time when there were no refrigerators; the truth is that after recovering, probably around the trip could taste the gastronomic delights later praises.
For those wanting to know the names of the towns and cities that are part of the
Camino de Santiago copy here Chapter III of the fifth book:
"From Somport to Puente la Reina, these are the places that are on the pilgrimage route: the first is Borce, at the foot of the mountain, on the slope of Gascony; then comes, cross the mountaintop, the Hospital of Santa Cristina after Canfranc then Jaca, then Osturit after Tiermas with its royal baths, hot flowing constantly. Then finally found Monreal and Puente la Reina.
In contrast, in the
Camino de Santiago from Port de Cize leads to the Basilica of Saint in Galicia, the next most important localities are: first, at the foot of the same name Cize and the slope of Gascony, is the village of Saint-Michel, then past the mountaintop, the Hospital de Roldán, after the town of Roncesvalles, then is Viscarret is, after Larrasoaña, then the city of Pamplona, then Puente la Reina, after Estella, fertile in good bread and excellent wine, as well as meat and fish, and stocked with all kinds of goods.
Then come Los Arcos, Logroño, Villarroya, the city of Nájera, Santo Domingo, Redecilla, Belorado, Villafranca-Montes de Oca, Atapuerca, Burgos City, Tardajos, Hob, Castrojeriz, Itero bridge, Frómista and Carrión, who It is a prosperous town and excellent, hearty bread, wine, meat and all kinds of products. Then comes Sahagún, lavish all kinds of goods, where the meadow where, it is said, that once the gleaming antlers reverdecieron the victorious warriors had driven into earth, to the glory of the Lord is.
Then comes Mansilla, after León, site of the royal court, full of all kinds of goods, then there is Orbigo, the city of Astorga, Rabanal, surnamed "Nasty" then the port of Mount Irago, Molinaseca, Ponferrada, Cacabelos then Villafranca, at the mouth of the river valley Valcarce and Castrosarracín, then Villaus after Mount Cebrero port and at its peak the hospital, then Linares King and Triacastela, at the foot of the same hill, and in Galicia , where the pilgrims pick up a stone and lead to Castaneda, for lime to the works of the Basilica of the Apostle. Then come San Miguel, Barbadelo Puertomarín, Queen Room, Palas de Rey, Lebureiro, Santiago de Boente, Castañeda, Vilanova, Ferreiros and then Compostela, the sublime city of the Apostle, full of all kinds of charms, the city that custody the remains of Santiago, which is why it is considered the most blessed and exalted the cities of Spain.
The reason for the rapid enumeration of localities and stages preceding, was for pilgrims, with this information, providing worry about travel expenses when departing for Santiago ".
To conclude this first part also copy Chapter VII where the names of regions and characteristics of the people of the
Camino de Santiago are described as not wasted and can place the reader inside the XII century Europe who lived in abject poverty .
"In the
Camino de Santiago, the route of Tolosa, the first land that is, after the Garonne river, is the de Gascogne, from there, passed the Somport, the land of Aragon and then the territory of Navarre to the bridge of Arga and beyond. On the route of Port de Cize, after the Touraine, is the territory of the pictavenses, fertile soil, excellent and full of all kinds of goods. The pictavenses are brave and warlike people, very skilled in handling the bow, arrows and spear in war, courageous in battle, we very quick in the race, dapper in dress, distinguished features, cunning in expression, very generous rewards and lavish in hospitality.
Then comes the territory of Saintes, then passed the Garonne estuary, is the territory of Bordeaux, excellent wine and rich in fish, but a rustic language. At Saintes are considered rustic language, but to Bordeaux even more. The Bordeaux Landes have to cross, then, in three grueling batches. This is a region lack of any resources, lack of bread, wine, meat, fish, water and supplies; sparsely populated, flat and sandy, although abundant in honey, millet in millet and pigs. If by chance the whole region in summer, carefully protects your face from the huge flies, commonly called wasps and horseflies, there superabound. And if you look carefully where you step, you will sink rapidly to the knees, sea sand fills everything there. Traversed this territory is the land of Gascony, rich in white bread and excellent red wine, full of forests, meadows, rivers and healthy sources. The Gascons are light word, chattering, mocking, lewd, drunkards, gluttons, ragged in his clothing, jewelry lacking, but made war and meanings for their hospitality to those in need. They have the habit of eating without table, sitting around the fire and drink all the same glass. They eat and drink a lot, dress badly, and shamelessly lie down together, the servants with the master and mistress, on some straw in the dirt.
At the end of this territory, on the
Camino de Santiago, spend two rivers near the town of San Juan de Sorde, one for the right side and the other on the left, one is called Gave and the other river, and can not crossed more than a boat. The boatmen deserve the utmost condemnation, because although very narrow rivers, for every person passing, rich or poor, charge rate a coin, four, claiming violently and abusively, by the cavalry. They also have a small boat, built in a tree trunk, which barely fit horses; Once mounted, you must be careful not to fall into the water.
Consequently, it will better take the horse out of the boat by the river current, drawn by the brake. So riding in the boat with few, if charged as excess soon capsize. Also, many times the boatmen up such a mass of pilgrims, after charging the ticket, the ship capsizes, and pilgrims drown in the water, what macabre rejoice because so seize the spoils of the castaways.
Then comes near Port de Cize, Basque territory, with the city of Bayonne on the coast north. This is a region barbarous language, full of forests, mountains, lack of bread and wine and all sorts of foods except relief representing apples, cider and milk.
In this territory, ie in the vicinity of Port de Cize, in the localities of Ostabat, Saint-Jean and Saint-Michel-de Port -Pied, toll collectors are so evil they deserve the utmost condemnation, because armed with two or three clubs, at passage of pilgrims tearing force by the unfair taxes. And if any Walker refuses to pay the money they ask, you are hit with sticks and amid threats until you register the shims and take away the census.
The people of this land are fierce as fierce, untamed and savage the same land they inhabit. His fierce faces and the ferocity of their barbarous language, put fear in the souls of those who contemplate. As legally can only tax the merchants, who come to pilgrims and travelers is illegal. On something when the rate is four or six coins, eight or twelve them charge, ie twice.
Therefore, we demand and pray earnestly that these collectors, together with the King of Aragon and other wealthy individuals that they receive money from taxes, and those who consent, as Raimundo de Soule, Viviano Agramonte are and Vizconde de San Miguel with all his descendants, along that those boatmen and Arnaldo de Guinia with all his descendants and the remaining lords of those rivers that are unfairly thereof boatmen passage money, along with priests who knowingly are administered penance and the Eucharist, or hold them divine service or support them in their churches, which are diligently excommunicated, not only in their episcopal sees, but also in the basilica of Santiago, in the presence of the pilgrims, until they repent with prolonged and public penance, and moderate their taxes. And any prelate who, out of affection or profit, seeks pardon, receive the blow of the sword of anathema.
You must know that collectors of tolls should not charge any tribute to the pilgrims, and that those boatmen can not charge as fee for the crossing, but a mite by two people, whether they are rich, and one only by horse ; and if they are poor, nothing. And you are bound to have big boats, which fit comfortably people with their horses.
In the Basque territory yet, the
Camino de Santiago passes a very high mountain, called Port de Cize well as the gateway to Spain, or because of that mountain goods are transported from one country to another. It has eight miles upstream and eight downstream; its height, in fact, is such that seems to touch the sky. Anyone who uploads it seems you can feel the sky with his own hand. From its summit can be seen the British and western sea and the borders of three regions: Castile, Aragon and France. On top of this mountain is a place called the Cross of Charlemagne, because in it, in the past, Charlemagne its way with axes, picks, hoes and other tools when leading his armies, he went to Spain. Then figuratively raised high the cross of the Lord, and bending your knees towards Galicia, raised their prayers to God and Santiago. Therefore, the manner pilgrims kneel there knees and pray toward their homeland of Santiago, and everyone leaves nailed a cross banner of the Lord. Until thousand can be found there. Hence it has to it by the first prayer to Santiago along the way.
In this mountain, before Christianity from spreading throughout the Spanish territory, the wicked of Navarre and the Basque, were accustomed to the pilgrims on their way to Santiago, not only assault them, but mounting as donkeys and kill . Next to this mountain, north is called Valcarlos valley, where Charlemagne himself encamped with their armies, when his warriors died in Roncesvalles. For he also spend many pilgrims road to Santiago when not want to climb Mount. Then in the fall, are the hospital and the church where the rock is the most powerful hero Roland, with his sword broke through from top to bottom, three strokes. Then comes Roncesvalles, where the great battle that killed King Marsilio, Roldán and Oliveros with forty thousand other Christians and Saracens fighters took place.
After this valley is the land of Navarre, rich bread, wine, milk and cattle. Navarre and Basque have similar characteristics in foods, dress and language, but the Basques face whiter than Navarre. Navarre dress in black clothes and short knee as the Scots and use a type of footwear called sandals made of leather with hair undressed, tied at the bottom with straps and only involve the soles of the feet, leaving the remainder uncovered. Spend, however, some black woolen cloaks that come to them to the elbows, with fringe, like a cloak, and they call skirts. As shown, dress badly, as they eat and drink too bad, because at home navarro has a habit of eating whole family, as the servant the master, the maid Mrs. mixing all dishes in one pot, and no spoons, but with his own hands, and drink all the same jar. And hearing them talk, remind the barking of dogs, so barbarous tongue. A God called him urcia; Mother of God, andrea Maria; bread, orgui; wine, ardum; Meat, aragui; fish, araign; home, echea; the owner of the house, IAONA; Mrs, andrea; church, elicera; the priest, belaterra, which means beautiful land; wheat, gari; water, uric; King, ereguia; and Santiago, IAONA domne iacue.
Are a barbarian, different people of all others in their customs and nature, full of evil, black, ignoble aspect, evil, wicked, treacherous, disloyal, lewd, drunken, aggressive, ferocious and savage, heartless and reprobate, wicked and rude, cruel and quarrelsome, devoid of any virtue and taught to every vice and iniquity, wickedness evenly in the Getas and Saracens and front gala enemies of our nation. What a miserable coin, or a Basque Navarro liquid as you can, to a Frenchman. In some of its regions, in Vizcaya and Alava eg Navarre, while heating, parts are taught, man to woman and woman to man. In addition, Navarre fornicate incestuous livestock. And also have the Navarre standing on his legs or his mare mule protection, so can not access more than him. It also gives the vulva lustful kisses his wife and his mule. Therefore, people with training can not but fail to Navarre.
However, they are considered brave in battle, brave in the assault, delinquent in paying tithes, persevering in their offerings to the altar. The Navarre, whenever you go to church, God gives bread, wine, wheat, or any other offering. Wherever you go a Navarrese or a Basque neck hangs a horn like a hunter, and used to take two or three javelins, they call auconas. When entering or returning home silva as a kite. And when I ambush to attack prey, wants to call his companions quietly, sings like an owl or howling like a wolf.
It is said that descended from the lineage of the Scots, so that they are similar in their manners and appearance. It is tradition that Julius Caesar sent three people: the Nubians, Scots and cornubianos "caudate" to subdue the peoples of Spain who refused to pay tribute, with orders to go to the sword all the men respecting life only women. They came by sea in that territory and destroyed the ships, iron and fire desvastaron from Barcelona to Zaragoza and from Bayonne to Montes de Oca. Were unable to go beyond these boundaries, because the Spaniards united repulsed the attack outside its confines. In their retreat fled to the mountains of the coast located between Nájera, Pamplona and Bayonne, ie, toward the sea, on land of Vizcaya and Alava, where they settled, raising numerous fortifications and killed all the men to snatch the wives, which they had children, whom posterity called Navarre. Navarro so verus non translates not true, that is not born or authentic strain lineage not legitimate. Navarre is also said that first took their name from a town called Naddaver, located in the region from which they came, turned to the Lord in the early town, by the preaching of St. Matthew, Apostle and Evangelist.
After their land, after the Montes de Oca, towards Burgos continues the Spanish territory Castilla y Campos. It is a land full of treasures, gold, silver, rich in cloths and vigorous horses, hearty bread, wine, meat, fish, milk and honey. However, no trees and is full of evil and vicious men.
Then comes the land of the Galicians, past the confines of León and ports of Irago and Cebrero mountains. It is a lush land with rivers, meadows, orchards extraordinary, good fruit and clarísimas sources; but scarce in cities, towns and farmland. There is little bread, wheat and wine, but abundant in rye bread and cider, stocked in cattle and horses, milk and honey, fish and large and small sea; rich in gold, silver, cloth, in wild furs and other riches, and even sarracénicas abundant in valuable goods. The Galicians are the people who, among other uneducated people of Spain, most resemble our gala nation, if not because they are very angry and contentious. "
My partner Sergio Fernandez will be responsible for making the gastronomic tour of this pilgrimage route, bon appetit everyone.
Don't suppose there is an English translation anywhere .....?
