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The food of the Santiago's pilgrim!

Federica_Lora

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Planning to walk on 2017
Good evening everyone!
I am a student of graphic design and communication of ISIA Urbino!

I'm working on a project about the Camino de Santiago, and I could use a hand!
I'd like to collect a bit 'of testimonies on what has been your experience on the path, what you have eaten during the journey and what was your relationship with food!
I know the request is a little bit 'strange, but I'm working on the topic "The food of the pilgrim"!

I'd like to know about your personal experience and if you have any anecdote of some dinner or some lunch that was somehow special to you!

Thank you so much to all those who will answer!
 
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Good evening everyone!
I am a student of graphic design and communication of ISIA Urbino!

I'm working on a project about the Camino de Santiago, and I could use a hand!
I'd like to collect a bit 'of testimonies on what has been your experience on the path, what you have eaten during the journey and what was your relationship with food!
I know the request is a little bit 'strange, but I'm working on the topic "The food of the pilgrim"!

I'd like to know about your personal experience and if you have any anecdote of some dinner or some lunch that was somehow special to you!

Thank you so much to all those who will answer!


Hi Federica...good luck with the project. Maybe these threads can shine some light.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/food-on-the-camino.43779/#post-453792

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/great-places-to-eat-on-the-cf.43863/#post-454169

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...rom-santiago-to-finisterre.39318/#post-393325

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/glorious-food-on-the-different-caminos.22756/
 
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I walked 2014, and a pilgrim from NZ noted by the time pilgrims reach Santiago each one has eaten equivalent of a small pig. There is a lot of processed meat, cheese, bread, and fruit eaten along the way. These are the transportable foods. Pilgrims meals offerred in resturants often consist of papas, (french fries), baked chicken, and soup. Spaghetti is a dish pilgrims often cooked in albergues; feeds a large group and is inexpensive. Hope this helps.
 
The bad news on the Camino Frances was that food the would be typical of any rural, poor, agricultural area providing food to go. "Boccadillo's", a crisp roll with thinly sliced ham, cheese or tortilla. Breakfast was coffee and pastry or tortilla. Dinner has been described earlier. Galicia was the first soup I remembered. The good news is that I lost 25 lbs (12k). I went not knowing what to expect and I can make few recommendations, I didn't suffer.
I would like to thank the Spanish pelegrino that made a wonderful Paella in Hontanas.... Ultreya... Willy/Utah/USA
 
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Thank you so much for all the answers!
Does anyone remember of some dinner or some lunch that was somehow special?:)
 
You have to consider the "social aspect" of food. You go to the restaurant with other pilgrims you have met in the paths; you can be alone, see a group of pilgrims (they are quite obvious, specially in little towns) and ask if you can join them; many times there are impromptu communal dinners organized in the albergues, or the albergues offer it. Generally (but not always) it works really well; it is one of the remarkable aspects of Camino experience.
 
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Federica, I'm a vegetarian, so if you ask about the meals that were most memorable I'm afraid what first comes to mind are the bad ones. In San Juan de Ortega (edit--not in the 'old days' when the padre was there) the vegetarian pilgrim's menu main dish was the most enormous plate of french fries ever. Period. Or the 'all vegetable' dish in Astorga that wasn't. Or...I could go on but won't.

Unless I carry it myself (bread and raw veggies--tomatoes, carrots, olives, cheese--), lunch is always tortilla (or occasionally a bocadillo). You could line up 30-odd different thumbnail pics of different tortilla as tiles and that would capture it. Sometimes they were fabulous, other times...well...

Probably the most memorable good meals along the way were more about the care and kindness of the person making them than the food itself.The food in all these places WAS good, but the love and care that went into the making of it was what I most remember.

Two other things that stand out are first, Pimentos de Padron. After a month of a scarcity of good vegetables these are like ambrosia. So once I get to that side of Galicia, a plate of these (with maybe some soup and bread) tends to be the standard meal. The very first time I encountered them was in Rinadiso, and the sizzling platter of singed peppers glistening with rock salt was a jaw-dropping (and delightful) surprise.
And...sopa de ajo. Ah, this is wonderful 'medicine.'
 
When I was in San Juan de Ortega I could have sworn they had run put of garlic and pimenton for the garlic soup as it had no flavour at all. But the kiosk next door sold delicious bocadillos de morcilla.

I have the say that on the Frances you basically eat what is put in fromt of you. I find the bocadillos stale and with little flavour (you get the bred and in it the slice of what ever it is you order, no mayo, mustards, herbs, nothing) so I tend to order tortilla de patata and ensalada mixta (one of the only ways to get vegetables). I also like to carry a piece of chorizo or jamon serrano. Portable protein. In albergues that serve food lentils are common, as is chicken. Yogout is the typical desert, when I have the choice I will get a cuajada with honey.

For good Camino food one has to walk the Norte and enjoy fabada, grilled sardines, stuffed peppers, carbayones in Llanes, pinxos in San Sebastian and Bilbao of course. Ah, and drink xacoli and cidra.
 
Federica, I'm a vegetarian, so if you ask about the meals that were most memorable I'm afraid what first comes to mind are the bad ones. In San Juan de Ortega (edit--not in the 'old days' when the padre was there) the vegetarian pilgrim's menu main dish was the most enormous plate of french fries ever. Period. Or the 'all vegetable' dish in Astorga that wasn't. Or...I could go on but won't.

Unless I carry it myself (bread and raw veggies--tomatoes, carrots, olives, cheese--), lunch is always tortilla (or occasionally a bocadillo). You could line up 30-odd different thumbnail pics of different tortilla as tiles and that would capture it. Sometimes they were fabulous, other times...well...

Probably the most memorable good meals along the way were more about the care and kindness of the person making them than the food itself.The food in all these places WAS good, but the love and care that went into the making of it was what I most remember.

Two other things that stand out are first, Pimentos de Padron. After a month of a scarcity of good vegetables these are like ambrosia. So once I get to that side of Galicia, a plate of these (with maybe some soup and bread) tends to be the standard meal. The very first time I encountered them was in Rinadiso, and the sizzling platter of singed peppers glistening with rock salt was a jaw-dropping (and delightful) surprise.
And...sopa de ajo. Ah, this is wonderful 'medicine.'

I can only imagine! I'm vegan, so I can understand the situation!
 
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Thank you so much for all the answers!
Does anyone remember of some dinner or some lunch that was somehow special?:)
There were several for me, and hard to remember them all, but here's a few:
On my first Camino in 2013 I had a great lunch at a Basque restaurant in SJPdP and knocked back a couple of Basque beers with it. The meal was a pork and veggies type cuisine. My first time in France, and in Basque country.
Last July while in Pamplona I had dinner one evening and one of the choices on the menu del dia was a stew made with wine sauce and the meat from one of the fighting bulls from the San Fermin festivities which had just ended a few days earlier. That was pretty cool. Never thought I'd ever dine on one of those bovine warriors.
When I was in Santo Domingo de la Calzada the locals prepared a big meal and all the pilgrims were invited. It was the feast of St James day. The meal was a chorizo and potato stew, with lots of bread and wine. Local girls dressed in traditional attire and served us. It was wonderful and a favorite memory.
Lastly, any of the communal meals prepared with fellow pilgrim friends at the albergue. The food was always standard fare, and wine and bread of course, but nothing can beat the joy of making and eating it together.
Honestly, I never had a bad meal on the Camino. I'm pretty simple in my food tastes and was always hungry after walking all day. Give me some meat, some veggies and or potatoes, bread and some booze and I'm happy. Even better because the meals are really very inexpensive.
 
Good evening everyone!
I am a student of graphic design and communication of ISIA Urbino!

I'm working on a project about the Camino de Santiago, and I could use a hand!
I'd like to collect a bit 'of testimonies on what has been your experience on the path, what you have eaten during the journey and what was your relationship with food!
I know the request is a little bit 'strange, but I'm working on the topic "The food of the pilgrim"!

I'd like to know about your personal experience and if you have any anecdote of some dinner or some lunch that was somehow special to you!

Thank you so much to all those who will answer!
Hi, welcome to the forum.

I'm vegetarian so my Camino Frances, first time was this year, included MANY potato omelettes! You might end up with a separate chapter (or volume) on the redoubtable PO.

Being a vegan on the camino will be an interesting challenge. During my walk I took an iron tablet every couple of days. I had planned on that and it turned out to be a good idea.

My first potato omelette was on my second walking day. I ordered a beer and pointed at the frittata on the bar saying "Sin jamon?" Barman looked at me as though he thought I was maybe a lunatic or maybe an insulting, stupid lunatic, and said firmly "Patata!" No, he wasn't rude, I'm exaggerating.

There was indeed shredded ham in that particular PO. That day I learned that shredded ham is a commonly used flavouring in Spain - like salt. That was the only time I ever had a PO with ham bits. Although lentil soup might sound attractive to vegetarians - very good luck with that item.

And tuna is a vegetable in Spain! A vegetarian salad will be offered with tuna.

These are very common anecdotes on the Camino. Spain is a beautiful friendly country, also extremely carnivorous - I think "macho" was invented in Mexico, but fits in Spain too. There is a strong move to sustainable energy generation in Spain, you will see thousands of wind turbines. But greenhouse gas generated by livestock seems, as in most developed countries, officially "overlooked".

Good luck with your project and Buen Camino, - Mike
 
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Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
On 21 March 2014 (the first day of Spring, ha!) I walked from Trabadelo to Alto de Poio. The weather turned vile, and there were snowdrifts to clump through after O'Cebreiro. I was thoroughly soaked through(my third Goretex jacket leaked just as badly as my previous ones) and feeling a bit cold when I lobbed into the bar. They served me soup with lots of vegetables and one of the best stews I can remember, but perhaps it was because it cheered a cold and wet old codger up a bit. It was simple fare but oh so good. And the girl behind the bar was extremely good looking…

That night it started to snow, and into the next day so I stayed dry until it turned into rain down the hill. I was soaked through again through Samos and onwards and the rain turned into sleet as I neared Sarria. A couple of days later, and still raining, I splashed into Melide around lunchtime. Well….

There's a small family restaurant as you enter the main part of the town which specialises in octopus. I had a marvellous warming vegetable soup and then a plate of small octopus pieces, eaten with toothpicks, and cooked with paprika. This was truly a stand-out meal anywhere.

I was now well into Galicia and it was constantly wet. But it was around this time that I discovered Tarta de Santiago…

De Colores

Bogong
 

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Did Camino Frances twice--Best Ever was the Café Casanova in Estella--no comparison for quality or quantity. 2nd best were TV dinners cooked in microwave in Albergues; third was cold cans of tuna with veggies.

Like most Norte Americans say--I would have killed for a Taco! Food is generally BLAND. Learned quickly that one MUST carry salt, pepper, and hot sauce with you. others appreciate if you share those items as no one is going to give you them with a meal.

And don't you just love a hamburger that consists of nothing but a patty on a loaf of bread--nothing else at all!
 
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Did Camino Frances twice--Best Ever was the Café Casanova in Estella--no comparison for quality or quantity. 2nd best were TV dinners cooked in microwave in Albergues; third was cold cans of tuna with veggies.

Like most Norte Americans say--I would have killed for a Taco! Food is generally BLAND. Learned quickly that one MUST carry salt, pepper, and hot sauce with you. others appreciate if you share those items as no one is going to give you them with a meal.

And don't you just love a hamburger that consists of nothing but a patty on a loaf of bread--nothing else at all!


Like I said on numerous other threads here on food: " des goûts et des couleurs on ne discute pas".
Salt and pepper is always on the table or can be asked . The waiting staff will accomodate.

If I want a Taco I will visit Mexico or some of the southern states in the USA.:rolleyes:

If in Spain : I will ask, in random order :

Fresh asparagus from Navarra.
Elaborate pinxtos in San Sebastian.
Migas in Extremadura.
Paella in the region of Valencia.
Beautiful grilled mushrooms from that bar in Logroño that only serves that one dish : mushrooms. But again sauteed/ grilled to perfection.
Tripe from the Madrid region.
Pulpo in Melide.
Any kind of fresh seafood in Cadiz, Andalucia.

And again : no one says one has to take the pilgrims's menu. Spend 2 € extra and ask for the menu del dia. More choice and fresher.
 
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Mark Lee and I shared a communal dinner at Calea in Ponferrada. It was a paella with so much chicken we could not clean the serving platter.
I have had so many wonderful meals on the Camino that I am ready to consider writing a cookbook.
If one stays away from bocadillas and tortillas, there is a wonderful world of food on the Camino in every town along the way.
 
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Mark Lee and I shared a communal dinner at Calea in Ponferrada. It was a paella with so much chicken we could not clean the serving platter.
I have had so many wonderful meals on the Camino that I am ready to consider writing a cookbook.
If one stays away from bocadillas and tortillas, there is a wonderful world of food on the Camino in every town along the way.
That was good stuff, wasn't it bro. Probably some of the best paella I have ever had.
paella.webp
 
One day, camino number one 2001, I was in Astorga, in need of USA fare. I asked for a hamburger. It was dripping in oil and the lettuce had been cooked, couldn't eat. I went to pizza shop ... well, what can I say. But, I will say I had some spectacular meals in resturants and albergues when I stuck to Spanish dishes.
 
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And don't you just love a hamburger that consists of nothing but a patty on a loaf of bread--nothing else at all!
Hmmm, in 2014 I had a fantastic hamburger with cheese, lettuce, tomato on a nice bun. There was a catsup in a tiny packet, no mustard but that was Ok since I'm not a mustard eater. I'd asked for regular ol' papas fritas but they served up papus bravas instead, not my favorite. Anyway, at a favorite tavern in Burgos right off the Plaza Mayor. If anyone is interested I'll find the name in my notes!
 
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In my experience on the Frances almost all pilgrim food with the possible exception of the bread (some you could use to hammer nails in ) was edible. Some of the food was delicious but I didn't know enough Spanish or have enough experience to always get delicious food. The best meals were undoubtably in donativos or private albergues that did their own cooking, often with help from pilgrims which was lots of fun. Along the way, what was almost always good was garlic soup, lentil stew, ensalata mixta, spaghetti with tomato or bolognese, meat straight from the charcoal or wood grill, freshly made tortilla, tostada with olive oil and salt, croissants that came fresh from bakeries, chorizo, olives (especially if stuffed with anchovies), and eggs and bacon. Other than that the food in pilgrim meals or tapas came almost exclusively from frozen packets, bottles or tins. Not that this means it was bad but it does mean that it requires some care to be cooked and presented well. I always believed that I could taste the food that had been cooked with love. While walking we happened to come across a couple of stores in a town whose name I no longer recall but it was reasonably large and reasonably affluent. It was long and skinny with blocks of multiple story buildings with appartments above and shops below on either side of the main shopping street. The Camino actually followed a less busy road parallel to this main road. The stores were a real eye opener. Virtually every pilgrim meal we had eaten along the way was to be found in the rows and rows of freezers. Not necessarily a bad thing. Frozen food is fresh and of consistent quality and if cooked well can result in delicious food. This does however explain the relative sameness of pilgrim meals across the Frances. I'm walking the Frances a second time next spring and I'm going to be much more savvy about the food. I loved the cuajada and would eat it for dessert at every opportunity even though it usually came pre-made in a plastic container. All that said, I did not walk the Camino for the food and when I walk it again next year, again it will not be because of the food.
 
On the camino one never knows when, where or from whom a gracious gift may come. One cold November day after slogging 20 km or so from Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz along the top of the hills through wind, rain and a bit of sleet I finally arrived at the municipal albergue San Esteban at dusk soaked, cold and VERY tired. After climbing the steps and pushing open the door the young Spanish ad hoc hospitalero said "Margaret! How about a tea?" Steaming hot, sugared and immediately served in a jam jar that tea was offered with true caritas. His gracious smile and welcome gesture of sincere simple hospitality were symbolic of the true camino spirit. We had met earlier when pilgrim floor mates at Granon. Such shared serendipity is so very precious.
 
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Put your question on the camino Portugues forum and you'll get different answers .
The Portuguese food is more varied. Lots of fish. But also cholesterol bombs like a dish from the northern region of Portugal, called Francesinha .
 
I didn't embark on the Camino in search of amazing food yet in many ways I found it. I grew tired of the bocadillos and the mountains of bread yet having said that dipping that mountain of bread into amazing olive oil and sprinkled with salt is one of my best memories (esp if there was a beer involved). I remember the patatas braves in Ages that were brought to our communal table by a young Jewish man who wanted us to celebrate a special day with him and those patatas braves became a wonderful memory. The garlic infused olives in a little bar that were so good, eaten in the company of two lovely friends I had met. Castrojeriz had the best bowl of lentils I had, oh, and the 8 people that joined the table were the highlight of the meal. A pastry brought to my table at a bar outside of Cacabellos, Bar Isla, as I had inadvertently taken "the long way" and they refused payment for it . The albergue in Ciruena had an amazing communal supper ... and I met new friends that I shared it with. The rain and then no accommodation available in Hornillos almost had me rethinking the whole vacation until we were picked up and taken out to a Casa Rural El Molino where 8 of us were welcomed by a lovely family and where I had one of the best meals on my whole Camino. Any coffee/beer/meal shared with friends. Oh, the membrillo served in various spots, the pulpo of Galicia, the wine in Rioja ...... perfect memories.
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Good evening everyone!
I am a student of graphic design and communication of ISIA Urbino!

I'm working on a project about the Camino de Santiago, and I could use a hand!
I'd like to collect a bit 'of testimonies on what has been your experience on the path, what you have eaten during the journey and what was your relationship with food!
I know the request is a little bit 'strange, but I'm working on the topic "The food of the pilgrim"!

I'd like to know about your personal experience and if you have any anecdote of some dinner or some lunch that was somehow special to you!

Thank you so much to all those who will answer!
At one evening pilgrim meal I didn't understand one item on the menu. The proprietor told me, "bang bang Bambi", so I enjoyed venison for dinner.
 
Australian Dee Nolan wrote "A Food Lover's Pilgrimage Along the Camino de Santiago de Compostela." I'm about halfway through
and loving it. I would call this an upscale hike. They slackpacked, stayed in private "hotels," ate in quite a few special eateries, and enjoyed picnics prepared by the trip coordinators. The narrative is very informative and the photos are gorgeous. It's not a cookbook tho there are a few recipes. Foodies will like this book.

I have this in my Amazon basket. It's a recent publication by one of the coordinators of South Chapter of the American Pilgrims:
Yosmar Monique Martinez
Tastes of the Camino
ISBN-13: 978-0997253405, ISBN-10: 0997253401
 
Good evening everyone!
I am a student of graphic design and communication of ISIA Urbino!

I'm working on a project about the Camino de Santiago, and I could use a hand!
I'd like to collect a bit 'of testimonies on what has been your experience on the path, what you have eaten during the journey and what was your relationship with food!
I know the request is a little bit 'strange, but I'm working on the topic "The food of the pilgrim"!

I'd like to know about your personal experience and if you have any anecdote of some dinner or some lunch that was somehow special to you!

Thank you so much to all those who will answer!

I am a vegetarian and so the food choices were smaller and very repetitive. While I initially was very happy with the "tortillas", by the end of the journey I never wanted to see one again. We ended our Camino in Finnesterre and there was a vegetarian restaurant in the center of town across from the bus stop. The food was varied and very delicious. My favorite dish was a vegetable curry. We ate two meals a day there for our entire 9 day stay (we had extra time and couldn't pull ourselves away from this charming town). I highly recommend this restaurant for all. My non-vegetarian friend enjoyed it everyday as well.
 
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Food was not my favourite part of the Camino. Too much grease and oil. Processed meat is very bad for you too.

At least the wine was cheap!
 
Having walked the Camino Frances and the Camino Portuguese, I would like to share a memorable food story from Portugal. My husband and I were in the habit of making sandwiches out of the included breakfast fare whenever we had the fortune to stay in a hotel along the way that had a buffet. We had eaten the boring ham and cheese and had stopped a little further on in the current heat wave on the Iberian Peninsula, when water stock was running low. Sitting under a tree in the seemingly endless cornfields and flat tomatoe farms, we were waved over by some affable Portugese people who were having a picnic complete with a hot grill roasting big salted sardines. Paper plates thrust our way, loaded up with two fat sardines each, tomato onion and white wine vinegar salad, cheese, fresh baked bread, wine, beer, water, Portuguese pastries, we sat down to enjoy one of the most amazing meals of our lives! When we were treated to a private fado concert it was the icing on the proverbial cake! Not much English spoken but heartfelt communication made this really an experience.
 
Any meal shared with other pilgrims either in small groups or communal dinners at albergues were very memorable. The communal dinner at Orrison was delicious with soup, baked chicken legs and dessert. The memorial part was listening to every say where they were from and where they hoped to end up. We meet many pilgrims that evening who we saw almost daily, stayed at some of the same albergues, shared many meals and all ended up in Santiago on the same day. I walked much slower than my travel companion and they would pass me, have a chat and then report to my friend how I was. The friendships and comradery show to you by others is indescribable. I ate many meals from pilgrim menus and enjoyed most. The most unusual thing I ate was stingray it did not have a lot of taste but if you got a bit of the cartilage in your mouth it was unpleasant. Hope this assist with your project. Best of luck.
Good evening everyone!
I am a student of graphic design and communication of ISIA Urbino!

I'm working on a project about the Camino de Santiago, and I could use a hand!
I'd like to collect a bit 'of testimonies on what has been your experience on the path, what you have eaten during the journey and what was your relationship with food!
I know the request is a little bit 'strange, but I'm working on the topic "The food of the pilgrim"!

I'd like to know about your personal experience and if you have any anecdote of some dinner or some lunch that was somehow special to you!

Thank you so much to all those who will answer!
Good evening everyone!
I am a student of graphic design and communication of ISIA Urbino!

I'm working on a project about the Camino de Santiago, and I could use a hand!
I'd like to collect a bit 'of testimonies on what has been your experience on the path, what you have eaten during the journey and what was your relationship with food!
I know the request is a little bit 'strange, but I'm working on the topic "The food of the pilgrim"!

I'd like to know about your personal experience and if you have any anecdote of some dinner or some lunch that was somehow special to you!

Thank you so much to all those who will answer!
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I have wonderful memories of meals in Portugal beginning with caldo verde and vinho verde -- lots of green deliciousness.

My favorite Spanish meal was somewhere on a bay between Porrinho and Arcade, where we did the "menu del dia" -- a lovely paella with local fresh caught shellfish -- so delicious.

paella.webp

But as others have said, I remember meals for who was there and where the "there" was than the food. Pulling into a small village plaza in the afternoon, finding a table in the shade, dumping the pack and, if it could be done politely, the shoes, ordering the vino blanco and the pimientos padron wherever they were offered -- the delight of something green in Spain always thrilled this Californian. Having the pleasure of a friend's companionship in those moments -- priceless.
 
The project may be done. The Original Poster has not returned since that day after the original post.

Ah, but he made me think about so many wonderful things and people that the project may be done but I am just beginning again!
 
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Good evening everyone!
I am a student of graphic design and communication of ISIA Urbino!

I'm working on a project about the Camino de Santiago, and I could use a hand!
I'd like to collect a bit 'of testimonies on what has been your experience on the path, what you have eaten during the journey and what was your relationship with food!
I know the request is a little bit 'strange, but I'm working on the topic "The food of the pilgrim"!

I'd like to know about your personal experience and if you have any anecdote of some dinner or some lunch that was somehow special to you!

Thank you so much to all those who will answer!

I know that much of th pilgrim food is bland and ''samey'' but thta just means the good meals stand out like beacons. My abiding memory will be one lovely morning on the walk from O Cebreiro to Triacastella we left early, before any breakfast. We were soon seperated and eventually I emerged over the summit of the climb up to San Roque. I chose the bar immediately on my right and sat in the sun while the owner cooked ''bacon'' eggs and tomatoes with fresh bread, all washed down with tea and the best breakfast I have ever had
 
I did the VDLP and couldn't fault the food at all. Never found it to be bland. Best meal was Rio Negro on the Sanabres.
 

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