Tell me if I'm Crazy... Camino Del Norte in 23 Days

[Damien Reynolds]

This will be my 6th time on the Camino de Santiago. I am looking forward to new unexplored areas, and I have not yet been on El Camino del Norte.

I have a good bit of experience on the camino (Frances, San Salvador, Primitivo, Finisterre, Muxia,..).

I can walk fast and far. Because of my work life, I have had to.

For anyone familiar with the Norte route, does this itinerary work? Do you see anything you'd advise against?

Can't wait to be walking again.

Day Walking Date From To Distance (K) Distance (M)
1 08/29/14 Irun Orio 41.2 25.75
2 08/30/14 Orio Deba 27.6 17.25
3 08/31/14 Deba Munitibar 35 21.875
4 09/01/14 Munitibar Lezama 34.4 21.5
5 09/02/14 Lezama La Arena 42.2 26.375
6 09/03/14 La Arena El Pontaron Del Guriezo 35.2 22
7 09/04/14 El Pontaron Del Guriezo Guermes 47.4 29.625
8 09/05/14 Guermes Mogro 35.6 22.25
9 09/06/14 Mogro Cobreces 30.4 19
10 09/07/14 Cobreces Colombres 38.6 24.125
11 09/08/14 Colombres Villahomes 37.2 23.25
12 09/09/14 Villahomes Colunga 37.6 23.5
13 09/10/14 Colunga Deva 40.4 25.25
14 09/11/14 Deva Avilés 31.8 19.875
15 09/12/14 Aviles Soto de Luiña 38.6 24.125
16 09/13/14 Soto de Luiña Luarca 38.8 24.25
17 09/14/14 Luarca La Caridad 29.6 18.5
18 09/15/14 La Caridad Vilela 28.4 17.75
19 09/16/14 Vilela Mondonedo 29.8 18.625
20 09/17/14 Mondonedo Vilalba 37.6 23.5
21 09/18/14 Vilalba Miraz 33.8 21.125
22 09/19/14 Miraz Arzua 46 28.75
23 09/20/14 Arzua Santiago 38.4 24
Totals: 835.6 522.25


Damien

 

[Dave]

Hi Damien,

I understand the need to walk at a faster pace. Some may question the distances, but you're experienced and know your body. If you can physically handle it, I won't caution you against it. The social implications are unfortunate--you won't spend more than a few consecutive days with most pilgrims before leaving them behind--but there's something to be said for variety!

From a physical perspective, my one word of caution involves the first four days of your plans--this is far and away the most demanding stretch of your walk. To pull off this pace, you need to make it through that stretch healthy; after that, the flat terrain makes it easier to pile up the kms. That said, if you hit the starting point well trained and fresh, your body may be more resilient.

Some of your planned stops lack albergues and may be quite limited for accommodation. These include Munitibar, La Arena (Pobeña has one close by), Mogro, Colunga, and Luarca. Most pilgrims who stay in the albergue in El Pontarron dislike the experience.

I'd suggest the following tweaks, keeping the first two days the same while reinforcing the point raised above regarding the terrain.

3 08/31/14 Deba ZENARRUZA
4 09/01/14 ZENARRUZA Lezama 34.4 21.5
5 09/02/14 Lezama POBEÑA
6 09/03/14 POBEÑA LIENDO
7 09/04/14 LIENDO Guermes 47.4 29.625
8 09/05/14 Guermes BOO DE PIELAGOS 35.6 22.25
9 09/06/14 BOO DE PIELAGOS Cobreces 30.4 19
11 09/08/14 Colombres Villahomes 37.2 23.25 (I'd consider getting a room in NUEVA instead)
13 09/10/14 Colunga Deva 40.4 25.25 (I'd suggest forking off to the Primitivo and then back to the Norte, bypassing this stretch, though I realize you've walked the Primitivo.)
18 09/15/14 La Caridad Vilela 28.4 17.75 (Given the distances, I'd suggest having a short day into Ribadeo and then a longer one to Mondoñedo)

Everything else is unchanged...

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Damien,
You must know that those distances are feasible given your stamina and condition, so none of us would have anything to say on that score, given your experience. Of the caminos you mention having already walked, the only thing that I would point out that will be different is that the Norte has a LOT of asphalt walking. I don't know if that affects your feet the way it affects mine. When I walk on that much asphalt, I always make sure to ice my feet and my shins every day, as a precaution. I always have an extra plastic bag and find that bar owners are always happy to oblige and give me ice.

I assume you also know you'll be pushing right through three lovely cities, San Sebastián, Santander, and Bilbao. I have enjoyed spending time in all of them and think they are highly worth it, but again, that's just a matter of preference. Enjoy the Norte, it is really beautiful!

 

[Camino Samoset Santiago]

I think it is possible, but do you know between Irun and Bilbao is a lot of up and down on small paths, very muddy when it rains. It's no walk in the park. With some training and fitness it is possible to do it in 23 days.

 

[grayland]

My first reaction would be...why??

Is it a time limitation? Otherwise it is difficult to understand the reasoning in as much as you would be walking long hours and missing a lot of interesting countryside.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

All, Thank you everyone for your replies -

Dave - Thank you so much for your suggestions. I have recalculated the route according to your ideas (mostly)...(recalculated itinerary to appear at the end of this post)... I have some questions tho... You said "Most pilgrims who stay in the albergue in El Pontarron dislike the experience."... but I can't find where I am staying there or where it is located. I have been known to make mistakes from time to time.

Also, thanks for the understanding about going fast and far. In reality, I can barely ask for the time off required to do the Caminos, as I am in a management position and precedence at my company is "be here and lead". It helps that when I take three weeks or more off its not to lay on some beach but to invigorate my body physically and my soul spiritually, its hard for corporate types to look down on that, at least with our company's management. Still though, more time is pushing it, and for this experience I am taking a week longer than I ever have before... This will be my first camino where I ever have the chance to "do the whole thing" at once - hence the longer distances.

There is no doubt that there is a social penalty to pay for moving far and fast. I remember my first Caminos with my mother and then my sister and how we settled in with a "set" of pilgrims all walking about the same pace. I'd enjoy familiar faces on a nightly basis, learned people's stories, flirted, laughed. Some of those people I can still reach.

My last 3 trips I meet people and maybe see them for 2 days. Variety in my experience has been uninteresting...

Peregrina2000 - Um, I think maybe sorta you might have planned my trip from Leon to Oviedo and then to Santiago last year. I am fairly sure I used your posts to assemble an awesome trip - or at least links you posted. Honored you would respond to my query. The Primitivo was a physical challenge unlike the others, but is my favorite to date. I had the single toughest day in my Peregrino experience on San Salvador. I walked from Day 2 - Pola de Gordon to Pajares, in a storm. Can I expect tougher?

grayland - If you read the previous responses you probably understand why by now. Its about time.

Day Walking Date From To Distance (K) Distance (M)
1 08/29/14 Irun Orio 41.2 25.75
2 08/30/14 Orio Deba 27.6 17.25
3 08/31/14 Deba Zenarruza (Ziortza) 31 19.375
4 09/01/14 Zenarruza (Ziortza) Lezama 38.4 24
5 09/02/14 Lezama Pobena 43.2 27
6 09/03/14 Pobena Liendo 48.4 30.25
7 09/04/14 Liendo Guermes 33.6 21
8 09/05/14 Guermes BOO DE PIELAGOS 29.2 18.25
9 09/06/14 BOO DE PIELAGOS Cobreces 40.4 25.25
10 09/07/14 Cobreces Colombres 38.6 24.125
11 09/08/14 Colombres Nueva 40.6 25.375
12 09/09/14 Nueva Colunga 34.2 21.375
13 09/10/14 Colunga Deva 40.4 25.25
14 09/11/14 Deva Avilés 31.8 19.875
15 09/12/14 Aviles Soto de Luiña 38.6 24.125
16 09/13/14 Soto de Luiña Luarca 38.8 24.25
17 09/14/14 Luarca La Caridad 29.6 18.5
18 09/15/14 La Caridad Vilela 28.4 17.75
19 09/16/14 Vilela Mondonedo 29.8 18.625
20 09/17/14 Mondonedo Vilalba 37.6 23.5
21 09/18/14 Vilalba Miraz 33.8 21.125
22 09/19/14 Miraz Arzua 46 28.75
23 09/20/14 Arzua Santiago 38.4 24
839.6 524.75

 

[Dave]

Hi Damien,

You had El Pontarrón on your original plans, but my suggestion was to replace it with Liendo. El Pontarrón is located between Islares and Liendo. Incidentally, by my count it's closer to 40km from Pobeña to Liendo, and you can make it even less if you follow the highway at the fork in Ontón.

Dave

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Dave -

On the Pobena to Liendo route, I would much prefer the reduced distance. I think some discrepancy in our values is a result of this:

http://www.gronze.com/guia-del-camino-del-norte/etapas/etapa-9-portugalete-castro-urdiales

It appears you choose the shorter route on that stage....

But the longer route on this:

http://www.gronze.com/guia-del-camino-del-norte/etapas/etapa-10-castro-urdiales-laredo

I chose the longer route on both.

Now knowing that I have spent probably 10 hours on this itinerary and it is for my trip please tell me "figure it out yourself" unless you actually enjoy this sort of thing.

Damien

 

[Dave]

Turns out, this is exactly the sort of thing I enjoy!

The short route from Ontón to Castro is outstanding. It used to be that it simply followed the highway the whole way. However, there is a new route marked from Mioño to Castro that is off-road most of the way with fantastic views. The longer route is not so good--on pavement the whole way, though a good chunk of it follows a quiet cycling track.

However, from Islares/Pontarrón, the long road is vastly superior. While not entirely off-road, it has some fantastic stretches and it drops you in the center of Liendo. The shorter route is exclusively on the highway and bypasses the center of Liendo (though you can certainly figure this out). If you're feeling terrible at that point, then it's good to have a shorter option. But the longer route is stunning at times.

I re-walked all of these options over the summer, so they're still fresh in the mind!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Dave - enjoy this:

Which do you choose? The river route, or oficial?

http://www.gronze.com/guia-del-camino-del-norte/etapas/etapa-8-bilbao-portugalete

Damien

 

[Dave]

River, for sure. Neither is great, but it has the blessing of being much shorter.

 

[peregrino_tom]

Damien, you've put your plan up here for scrutiny, so here goes...
You've explained you are doing this because you are limited to three weeks' leave and you see the benefit of this amount of time as the opportunity to do a whole route.
I think that while you will manage the whole route on paper you will likely experience a reduced camino. I think you are more likely to have a richer camino experience with a shorter distance. But there are two exceptions I can think of to my own argument
1 if you know you are a not just a good distance walker, but also a fast one you'll be able to fit in the standard casual sight-seeing, socialising, meandering and bar time as well as averaging 35-40km a day. In which case you won't miss so much, perhaps just the experiences of resting in places like Bilbao, Santander, Gijon, Tapia and Sobrado

2 if what's driving you is the adventure of feeling: 'I have only 23 days and it's a bit mad but I'm going to take on the 'whole' of the Norte.' Then it seems the adventure/challenge is as important to you as the camino itself. In which case all we can usefully do is advise you on your proposed stages!

If you are still with me, here's my argument:
If yer man Edward de Bono (a bit out of fashion now) was looking at your terms he might be asking what you mean exactly by 'do the whole thing'. Starting points we recognise today are largely our own constructs from the last 50(?) years. They're just prominent staging posts along pilgrimage routes that start much further back, many hundreds of miles away in distant lands. This should give us the freedom to determine where our camino starts, reflecting our own parameters and capabilities, which are not always wholly congruent with those of popular parlance and guide books. Start where you feel you can experience the best camino. That will be doing the 'whole' camino, wherever it is.

Two alternatives to your plan that you might want to consider:
1 walk the Portuguese way from Lisbon which is about 630km and splits quite nicely into 21 stages (as I found myself, with a 3-week slot of annual leave last year).
2 Start the Norte in Bilbao or Gernika (which lots of people do). This completely takes the pressure out of the whole exercise. It gives you time to be flexible, go a bit with the flow, depending on who you meet, take a few more swims in the sea, see the cave paintings, explore the cities, meander along the E-9 coastal path occasionally and marvel and give thanks at Sobrado

PS I agree with Dave about the coastal option at Miono into Castro Urdiales, which is great. I disagree about skipping round Deva. From Villaviciosa to Deva there's a cracking route high into the hills, although the waymarking gets very weird. Camping Deva is excellent and Gijon spectacular!

 

[oursonpolaire]

My first Camino was in a limited-time-because-of-workplace situation and, by Burgos, the sprint had become oppressive, so I just decided to cut out the middle part (of course, this meant that I had to return and do it over!) . Since then, I've spoken with a number of people who only have 2-3 weeks and I strongly suggest that they do not rush it but rather: a) cut their Camino into two portions (perhaps Irun-Santander or Irun-Gijon) and do it over two years, or b) Santander to Santiago de Compostela. The starting point is wherever we choose it to be or, as one friend annoyingly told me, from our front door. I found the del Norte to be a splendid route and astonishing in its scenery, although perhaps less remarkable in the historical aspect than the Francese. Just be careful of the undertow if you go into the water.

 

[mralisn]

Hi Damien,

This is all great to be planning, thinking ahead, open to suggestions. I walked the CN in '10 and will return next summer. I'm looking to combine with the GR. I really like the CN but as mentioned above the tarmac is a killer. In '10, there was much construction which led to many detours. I didn't mind this so much, but while it was easy to see the diversions the Spanish didn't seem all that eager to indicate how to get back to the Camino after detour. This led to some "interesting" days of both adventure and frustration. I will also incorporate the Primitivo this time.

Hopefully, you have time to stay in Güemes. Of over 100 days on the Caminos, this place is one of the most special.

Have a great time.

 

[Thornley]

Hi Damien .

If you were in a car accident [ God Forbid mate] and had to have a month in hospital would your company still continue and operate???
Is there a succession plan in place ??

Take the 30 days Damien and as much as the E9 as you can get.
David

 

[peregrina2000]

All, Thank you everyone for your replies

Peregrina2000 - Um, I think maybe sorta you might have planned my trip from Leon to Oviedo and then to Santiago last year. I am fairly sure I used your posts to assemble an awesome trip - or at least links you posted. Honored you would respond to my query. The Primitivo was a physical challenge unlike the others, but is my favorite to date. I had the single toughest day in my Peregrino experience on San Salvador. I walked from Day 2 - Pola de Gordon to Pajares, in a storm. Can I expect tougher?

Hi, Damien, I have walked that Day 2 on the Salvador twice, but never in a storm. It was fine. But for me at least, I think some of the days you describe on the Norte will be harder than that. The elevation gain isn't my problem, it's the sheer distance and number of foot poundings that would make some of those stages beyond my ability. I also found that the Norte had way more asphalt (I think I've said that), and that gets to me much more than going up and down beautiful mountains on dirt paths. But you will just have to try it and see how your body deals with it. I will also say that on my Camino de Levante last year I was surprised to see that I had no problem pushing my average stages up into the mid 30s range. I did this only because my two walking companions (and the only other two walkers I saw on this route) wanted to walk those distances, and was surprised to find I could adjust with no problem. So you may just find this totally do-able.

The great thing about the Caminos is that you are never far from civilization and can always come up with a Plan B if this one doesn't work. Good luck with this, report back on how it goes!

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Ok, I have listened to some of what you all have said and have considered some alternatives. Unfortunately, the more it was suggested that I push the start site out the more I pushed the destination! So here are two new alternatives. The first barely pushes back the start but makes the beginnings easier, as I understand this is the toughest part of the exercise.

The second starts way further back but allows for a continuation to Muxia and Fisterre.

All three options end up within about 23 Km distance of each other so I guess that I am going near 500 miles in 23 days come August. I love the challenge, and the adventure.

Option 2 (Norte, Start in San Sebastion)
Day Walking Date From To Distance (K) Distance (M)
1 Friday, August 29, 2014 San Sebastion Zumaia 31.6 19.75
2 Saturday, August 30, 2014 Zumaia Markina 36.4 22.75
3 Sunday, August 31, 2014 Markina Hostel Eskerika 32.8 20.5
4 Monday, September 01, 2014 Hostel Eskerika Portugalete 35.8 22.375 River Route after Bilbao
5 Tuesday, September 02, 2014 Portugalete Islares 36.2 22.625 Short route from Onton to Castro
6 Wednesday, September 03, 2014 Islares Laredo 22.6 14.125
7 Thursday, September 04, 2014 Laredo Guermes 29 18.125
8 Friday, September 05, 2014 Guermes BOO DE PIELAGOS 29.2 18.25
9 Saturday, September 06, 2014 BOO DE PIELAGOS Cobreces 31 19.375
10 Sunday, September 07, 2014 Cobreces Colombres 38.6 24.125
11 Monday, September 08, 2014 Colombres Villahormes 37.2 23.25
12 Tuesday, September 09, 2014 Villahormes Colunga 37.6 23.5
13 Wednesday, September 10, 2014 Colunga Deva 40.4 25.25
14 Thursday, September 11, 2014 Deva Avilés 31.8 19.875
15 Friday, September 12, 2014 Aviles Soto de Luiña 38.6 24.125
16 Saturday, September 13, 2014 Soto de Luiña Luarca 38.8 24.25
17 Sunday, September 14, 2014 Luarca La Caridad 29.6 18.5
18 Monday, September 15, 2014 La Caridad Vilela 28.4 17.75
19 Tuesday, September 16, 2014 Vilela Mondonedo 29.8 18.625
20 Wednesday, September 17, 2014 Mondonedo Vilalba 37.6 23.5
21 Thursday, September 18, 2014 Vilalba Miraz 33.8 21.125
22 Friday, September 19, 2014 Miraz Arzua 46 28.75
23 Saturday, September 20, 2014 Arzua Santiago 38.4 24
Totals: 791.2 494.5

or....

Option 3 (Norte, Start in Bilbao, but get to do the Muxia Fisterre thing)
Day Walking Date From To Distance (K) Distance (M)
1 Friday, August 29, 2014 Bilbao Pobeña 25.4 15.875
2 Saturday, August 30, 2014 Pobena Liendo 41.2 25.75 River Route after Bilbao
3 Sunday, August 31, 2014 Liendo Guermes 33.6 21 Short route through onton Y milono, long route from El Pontarrón de Guriezo to liendo
4 Monday, September 01, 2014 Guermes BOO DE PIELAGOS 29.2 18.25
5 Tuesday, September 02, 2014 BOO DE PIELAGOS Cobreces 31 19.375 Long coastal route to santander
6 Wednesday, September 03, 2014 Cobreces Colombres 38.6 24.125
7 Thursday, September 04, 2014 Colombres Villahormes 37.2 23.25
8 Friday, September 05, 2014 Villahormes Colunga 37.6 23.5
9 Saturday, September 06, 2014 Colunga Deva 40.4 25.25
10 Sunday, September 07, 2014 Deva Avilés 31.8 19.875
11 Monday, September 08, 2014 Avilés Soto de Luiña 38.6 24.125
12 Tuesday, September 09, 2014 Soto de Luiña Luarca 38.8 24.25
13 Wednesday, September 10, 2014 Luarca La Caridad 29.6 18.5
14 Thursday, September 11, 2014 La Caridad Vilela 28.4 17.75
15 Friday, September 12, 2014 Vilela Mondonedo 29.8 18.625
16 Saturday, September 13, 2014 Mondonedo Vilalba 37.6 23.5
17 Sunday, September 14, 2014 Vilalba Miraz 33.8 21.125
18 Monday, September 15, 2014 Miraz Sobrado dos Monxes 26 16.25
19 Tuesday, September 16, 2014 Sobrado dos Monxes Arca (Pedrouzo) 40.8 25.5
20 Wednesday, September 17, 2014 Arca (Pedrouzo) Negreira 40.4 25.25
21 Thursday, September 18, 2014 Negreira Olveiroa 37 23.125
22 Friday, September 19, 2014 Olveiroa Muxia 28 17.5
23 Saturday, September 20, 2014 Muxia Fisterre 31 19.375
Totals: 785.8 491.125

And yes, option 3 includes walking through but not stopping in Santiago (except for breakfast).

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hi Damien
With two complete itineraries here I'll just make some observations based on what I enjoyed

1 the cities that you are walking straight through!
2 Castro Urdiales – the headland is an amazing place to be on a fine evening
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_tom/8678205057/in/set-72157633351850582/lightbox/ I might choose it over Islares and better space your stages (option 2) .
3 Laredo or Santona are definitely worth staying at although I appreciate Santona may be too close to Guemes for you. I'd be inclined to choose to sacrifice the inland route via Liendo even though it is very pleasant (although a bit confusing).
4 The coastal option after Guemes is another highlight that should not be missed. Plenty of places to swim, but best to hold on until you get round to the Playa de los Tranquilos http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_tom/8680368026/in/set-72157633351850582/lightbox/ where you are a couple of km from the ferry (with Santander visible across the bay).
5 Staying at Boo just highlights what you are missing by taking on this challenge. Boo is a completely forgettable roadhouse between two of the main attractions of the camino - Santander and Santillana – which you will be passing straight through.
6 La Caridad to Vilela sees you enjoying some 'shorter' stages, so you might want to consider walking along the coast (occasionally E-9) via Tapia
7 option 2 is still missing Sobrado – which everyone will recommend you squeeze in
8 In option 3 you factor in Muxia and Finisterre. It's not essential to cover both, so this gives you a day's flexibility if things don't all go according to plan. Personally I'd choose Finisterre, but the forum is about equally split on this.

PS as you are walking the river route to Portugalete you will cross at the amazing Puente Colgante. You can choose to walk along the top of the suspension as Bobbie (Sedona2012) did or take the 'car' below, as I did. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bobbiesurber/9583914471/in/photostream/

cheers, tom

 

[mikevasey]

I walked the Norte from Irun in 2012 as far as Oviedo. On my 3rd night at Orio i met an American guy who had walked from Irun that day, he had met 3 other peregrinos who had the same idea of walking the Norte in quick time, they had agreed on 21 days. When i looked at them i didnt doubt they would do it, its not for me that type of walking but for them they had already seemed to have formed close bonds, my point is? There is a saying the Camino Provides, i laughed it off the first time i heard it but if you want to start from Irun do it,you might find similar minded companions to give you support.

Mike

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Ok, again... Thanks for all the info. I hereby present option #4, based on the feedback thus far received. Option 3 was a stretch as I have already done the Muxia & Fisterre thing a few times and I like new places better.

Many of you have expressed your admiration for cities I would be passing through on the Norte with the other options, so this itinerary has significant adjustments to allow me to spend some time in some significant places. This also means some bad ass long days to make the schedule.

I am very grateful for all the input. What do you think?

Option 4 (Norte, Start in San Sebastion, hit some cities)
Day Walking Date From To Distance (K) Distance (M)
1 Friday, August 29, 2014 San Sebastion Zumaia 31.6 19.75
2 Saturday, August 30, 2014 Zumaia Markina 36.4 22.75
3 Sunday, August 31, 2014 Markina Hostel Eskerika 32.8 20.5
4 Monday, September 01, 2014 Hostel Eskerika Portugalete 35.8 22.375 River Route after Bilbao
5 Tuesday, September 02, 2014 Portugalete Castro Urdiales 27.6 17.25 Short route from Onton to Castro
6 Wednesday, September 03, 2014 Castro Urdiales Laredo 25 15.625 Short route from Pontarron to Hazas, if long route add 6.2k
7 Thursday, September 04, 2014 Laredo Guermes 29 18.125
8 Friday, September 05, 2014 Guermes Santander 15.4 9.625
9 Saturday, September 06, 2014 Santander Santillana del Mar 37 23.125
10 Sunday, September 07, 2014 Santillana del Mar San Vicente de la Barquera 33.6 21
11 Monday, September 08, 2014 San Vicente de la Barquera Llanes 40 25
12 Tuesday, September 09, 2014 Llanes Ribadesella 31.4 19.625
13 Wednesday, September 10, 2014 Ribadesella Sebrayo 31.6 19.75
14 Thursday, September 11, 2014 Sebrayo Gijon 35.8 22.375
15 Friday, September 12, 2014 Gijon Muros de Nalón 47.6 29.75
16 Saturday, September 13, 2014 Muros de Nalón Cadavedo 39 24.375
17 Sunday, September 14, 2014 Cadavedo La Caridad 45.4 28.375
18 Monday, September 15, 2014 La Caridad Lourenzá 50 31.25
19 Tuesday, September 16, 2014 Lourenzá Gontan 25.2 15.75
20 Wednesday, September 17, 2014 Gontan Baamonde 39.2 24.5
21 Thursday, September 18, 2014 Baamonde Sobrado dos Monxes 41.2 25.75
22 Friday, September 19, 2014 Sobrado dos Monxes Sta. Irene 38 23.75
23 Saturday, September 20, 2014 Sta. Irene Santiago 26 16.25
794.6 496.625

 

[shefollowsshells]

I probably have a lot of nerve to respond as I only have the CF under my belt, but the Norte is calling and I will be there the last few days of March...

From everything I have read the first part of the Norte is stunning, I'm such a salty dog at heart that I would rather cut something else out then those first few days, just sharing.
I LOVED my time in Finesterre and Muxia, I would not have missed either for the World first time ...but have had to think, as you are having to do, am I drawn to have to go back into Santiago and do I really have to do Finesterre and Muxia this trip considering time.

I just noticed your option 4 so it seems that maybe you are considering putting the front end part back on.

Buen Camino!

 

[shefollowsshells]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_tom/8678205057/in/set-72157633351850582/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_tom/8680368026/in/set-72157633351850582/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/bobbiesurber/9583914471/in/photostream/

cheers, tom[/quote]

Tom your pictures are second to none!!! You captured your Camino beautifully, thank you for sharing!
If I had any doubt of doing the Norte over the Frances again your photos have eliminated that.

 

[peregrino_tom]

Damien
I write this with a smile of resignation, as my strategy has back-fired.
I had hoped to convince you to shorten your itinerary by showing you what you would miss from squeezing the whole Norte into 21 days. Instead you are going to add everything in! I now feel partly to blame for your new plan that involves some humongous stages, in particular a sequence of 47,40,45 and 50 from Gijon to Lourenza. I can barely imagine what that will be like. It's so contrary to what I feel about the camino that I shall now step away from this thread. I'm really not the person to be offering you advice.

Neve
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aubretia/sets/72157635458273820/
if you need more photos to convince you here's a set of 700 from Aubrey. I met her on this forum just before I set out last Easter and we met up and walked a few stages together and have become friends. She took a fancy camera (4 thirds) and has a great eye. You'll see a few pics of Steeltown pilgrim, also of this forum, and his trusty guitar. Don't be alarmed by the photo at the end of a large bear in the woods - I'm pretty sure that slipped out of an Alaska set by mistake....

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Damien,
If all of this advice people have given you has made you reconsider your original goal, that's fine, but if you are reworking your stages just because we've told you to, I think you should go back to square one and do what Mike says -- go with your gut, start in Irun and see how it goes and then rework as everything unfolds. It's pretty clear that most of us can't conceive of walking those long stages, either because we would drop dead if we attempted it or because we savor other parts of the camino experience that are not consistent with 10-12 (or more) hour walking days. But we're not you, and it's not our camino.

Beatrice on the forum wound up walking the Camino Frances in 23 days http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...-camino-frances-in-23-days.20768/#post-163196
That was what worked for her, I think she just set out, started walking and wound up in Santiago 23 days later. She got some of the same comments about why in the world she would want to do that, and her answer was that that was what worked for her and her body. Her distances are probably similar to what yours would be, though I think the Norte is a bit longer than the Frances. You have walked a lot of caminos and must know what kind of a schedule is best for you. So don't let us tell you otherwise! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Thornley]

Hi Damien,

I never got a reply when i asked if work will continue if you had an accident.
I'm sure it will mate .
I'm with Tom and this will be my last reading on this topic,
Please take extra days , there are many very beautiful towns , beach areas and scenery that require a look.
We have to travel from Australia , normally 24 - 28 hrs in the plane so i can assure you we take our time and take in the area, history, scenery and people.
We love having lunch or dinner in the lane/alley ways of the cities with the locals. and we don't always hit the cot at 10pm.

1/ Maybe you live nearby with this long travel not required , i'm not sure as you don't mention your abode.
2/ All your other camino's have been *half one's *and this is where you might struggle .
The distances of your previous camino's are not as far as the Norte and nowhere near the distances if you added as you earlier wished Muxia and Finisterre.
We found the Norte at the start taxing , much the same as Le Puy and very much more time consuming than Frances.

Take and extra week mate and enjoy.
I can remember many instances when the world was shattered with bad news ...but....it continued...so will the office.

Have a great camino, enjoy the scenery because its beautiful , especially the E9 , and have a beer each night after a shower up a lane way with the locals.

 

[shefollowsshells]

Neve
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aubretia/sets/72157635458273820/
[/quote]

Thank you Tom!
I am so thankful that you reminded me of her gorgeous pictures. Within hours of even comtemplating the Norte I got wind of her pictures and was left drooling...
NOW I have my guide book in hand as I go thru her pictures and there is even more of a connection...now I am left with eyes swelling up as I am totally convinced this Camino is for me.
I have had my guide book in hand making notes in it using both of your pictures. What a treat!
QUESTION...where exactly is that blow hole picture taken, I noticed your comment of missing it and wondered do you know?
Thank you!

 

[mralisn]

Neve
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aubretia/sets/72157635458273820/

...now I am left with eyes swelling up as I am totally convinced this Camino is for me.
[/quote]


What a great statement. Yes, this Camino is for you.

 

[Pig Face Boy]

With all respect I know I am posting this as a reply, but can someone tell me how to post an original question? Start a thread, as it were? Somehow I'm missing the place to click... Thanks in advance. Pig Face Boy

 

[mralisn]

With all respect I know I am posting this as a reply, but can someone tell me how to post an original question? Start a thread, as it were? Somehow I'm missing the place to click... Thanks in advance. Pig Face Boy

Fair question.

Go to the top of the home page or whichever of the categories in which you want to post. Just above where all the threads are listed, there is a light blue button, "Post new thread".

Good luck.

 

[Pig Face Boy]

Thank you, except that I cannot find that button. Perhaps because I am using an iPhone?

 

[peregrino_tom]

Neve
The Bufones de Arenillas are about 9km before Llanes where the camino and the E-9 run together (in the Cicerone guide p123-5) - the guide says 'Proceed with caution through the bufones and remain on the trail'.. which makes it sound more adventuresome than I remember! I think I missed them because the sea was flat calm - and I hadn't done my homework

PFB
I don't have an iphone but suggest you check this thread about obtaining the iphone app for the forum
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...e-santiago-mobile-app-is-now-avaliable.13870/
If that doesn't work then best to post to that thread where there's more chance of the tecchies finding you

 

[Tia Valeria]

Neve
The Bufones de Arenillas are about 9km before Llanes where the camino and the E-9 run together (in the Cicerone guide p123-5) - the guide says 'Proceed with caution through the bufones and remain on the trail'.. which makes it sound more adventuresome than I remember! I think I missed them because the sea was flat calm - and I hadn't done my homework

There was a diversion when we walked last year that brought us out to the road again near La Franca, right opposite the twin bufone. We would have missed seeing it if we had been walking along the road, or on the original trail. It was spectacular, even from a distance. Next day we walked past Arenillas when the tide was still low and the sea fairly calm. The blow hole was 'growling', but no spray or stones being thrown up. With care it was possible to hold the camera out over a large rock and take a photo - not to be attempted if the bufone is blowing through the 'split'. There is tremendous power behind that water spout with the water, sand and stones being flung several metres into the air! if it is blowing then do pass with great care.
(Edit. Note:- The conditions have to be right to see the spout, tide, wind etc - it isn't a daily event.)

 

[obinjatoo]

I have been reading this thread with interest because I want to do another walk this fall or late summer. I'm thinking about the Norte and/or the Primativo. Is there really that much pavement on the Norte? And what is the E9? I would much rather a pleasant slow journey through rich countryside or coast on footpaths and 2 tracks than zoom along on pavement.
Any information would be helpful...
Thank you

 

[peregrina2000]

I have been reading this thread with interest because I want to do another walk this fall or late summer. I'm thinking about the Norte and/or the Primativo. Is there really that much pavement on the Norte? And what is the E9? I would much rather a pleasant slow journey through rich countryside or coast on footpaths and 2 tracks than zoom along on pavement.
Any information would be helpful...
Thank you

I walked the Norte in 2006 and have a general but very vague memory of a lot of road walking. Whenever we saw a sign for E9, the coastal path, we took it, since it frequently took us off the pavement, closer to the ocean, and always got us back to the camino.

In 2011, I walked the Caminos Lebaniego and Vadiniense, and I started in Santander. I knew there would be pavement, but I had forgotten that the four days from Santander to San Vicente de la Barquera were almost entirely on pavement, except for a short break here and there. I don't know if that's a particularly bad stretch, but it was really hard on my feet. Not sure I could do the norte now. It is beautiful, but hard on the feet.

 

[mralisn]

I'll walk again this year the Camino Norte. I really want to incorporate the local trails/E9 so as to get off the tarmac as much as possible. I walked in 2010 starting in Irun…..

Ha! I just scrolled above. I already told my story. Duh.

So you asked us to tell you if you were crazy. Yes, you are crazy. However, crazy can be the most rewarding.

Enjoy your journey,
Simeon

 

[shefollowsshells]

...now I am left with eyes swelling up as I am totally convinced this Camino is for me.

What a great statement. Yes, this Camino is for you.[/quote]


Loved this so much I have opened my guide book and have written in the flap
"yes this Camino is for you" -Simeon
it graces the page with these two things
"Don't let anyone change your mind" - Mendi Walker
and
"...and remember when in doubt as to which way to turn at a fork in the road, the Camino is usually the muddy route headed straight uphill" -Audrey

Thank your for the smiles!

 

[MKalcolm M]

While walking the Norte this spring I met a young woman from Slovakia who could only take a short time from work, so she was pushing hard and covering long distances. The day we met she had walked 40kms, and was on target to make it to Santiago in her alloted time, so I'm sure it is possible to do it as you have planned. Could I throw a wild card in and suggest that you scrap all plans and just start walking and be open to what comes along? I had many preconceived ideas of what to expect and what I would and wouldn't do on the camino, but set off with no guide book, mobile phone or watch and determined just to enjoy the route. The end result was that all my ideas changed, my preconcieved ideas, proved very variable and I had a very different walk than what I anticipated. It was a wonderful experience, which completely changed my life. I am now living with a very sweet soul whom I met on the camino, but would not have had the opportunity for us to get together if either of us had not been prepared to change our expectations of the walk. One of the games which always got us laughing as we walked was to list the things we had done but didn't expect to do on the camino. I urge you to forget the plans and just be open to the walk.

 

[MKalcolm M]

Neve
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aubretia/sets/72157635458273820/

Thank you Tom!
I am so thankful that you reminded me of her gorgeous pictures. Within hours of even comtemplating the Norte I got wind of her pictures and was left drooling...
NOW I have my guide book in hand as I go thru her pictures and there is even more of a connection...now I am left with eyes swelling up as I am totally convinced this Camino is for me.
I have had my guide book in hand making notes in it using both of your pictures. What a treat!
QUESTION...where exactly is that blow hole picture taken, I noticed your comment of missing it and wondered do you know?
Thank you![/quote]
Don't know if you got an answer to where the blow hole is, so forgive me if this is a repetition, but it is between Colombres and Llanes. As we walked along, we saw people, several of whom were pilgrims sitting around a large rock formation and were curious as to why, then one of my fellow walkers said she had read about this blow hole in her guide book. If you are careful it is possible to climb into the opening and stand directly over the blast, but hold on tight! The rush of air appears irregularly. It blew my shirt over my head and I lost my hat, but being in the rush of air was truly exhilarating.

 

[Santa Cruz Cathy]

Hello all, there is such useful information on this thread, thank you for posting. My partner and I are planning to traverse Camino de Santiago in September 2013, we hope to take 3-4 weeks to have plenty of time for side trips. I have been searching for information about cycling the northern coastal route, El Camino del Norte (starting point - Bilboa). I have read the cycling forum on this site but have found little information.

For those of you that have walked El Norte, do you believe one can instead traverse by bicycle, if starting in Bilbao? I have very little cycling experience but am in good shape and plan to train in advance. I have heard the route for El Norte is difficult, but I am trying to find out how difficult, and others who have walked this route can imagine doing do on bicycle. I would rather walk, but knee injuries are the reason I prefer to cycle the long distance.

If on bicycle, would you recommend one of the routes posted in this discussion, maybe #3? MUCH thanks, I greatly appreciate all input. I have never done a trip like this before, but my heart is calling!

-Cathy

 

[unadara]

I have read through the thread and just note...
Stop in Markina for refreshment but go on to the Monastery Ziortza-a wonderful place, dinner and breakfast with a Monk. Leaves you right on path for next day. As a group we took 3 different paths into Gernika-signposting not easy here, I took a lovely river path but no one else took it? There is a German guide, one of our group had it and we took some short options using road map. We got badly lost trying to find Guemes. We did not stop In Santander, walked on to BOO dont stay there! nice beds but no food, no bar. Beyond St Vincente there is an alberque in Serdio, recommended (by me). I loved the coast, took all coast option, went to Sobrado, took Camino Viejo ? to Santa Irene that day (bring food).
Enjoy.
I walked 40kms a couple of days, I nearly died! ha.

 

[peregrina2000]

I have read through the thread and just note...
Stop in Markina for refreshment but go on to the Monastery Ziortza-a wonderful place, dinner and breakfast with a Monk. Leaves you right on path for next day. As a group we took 3 different paths into Gernika-signposting not easy here, I took a lovely river path but no one else took it? There is a German guide, one of our group had it and we took some short options using road map. We got badly lost trying to find Guemes. We did not stop In Santander, walked on to BOO dont stay there! nice beds but no food, no bar. Beyond St Vincente there is an alberque in Serdio, recommended (by me). I loved the coast, took all coast option, went to Sobrado, took Camino Viejo ? to Santa Irene that day (bring food).
Enjoy.
I walked 40kms a couple of days, I nearly died! ha.

Una, though I walked the Norte nearly a decade before you, I too got hopelessly lost trying to find Guemes. It was well worth the struggle to find, however! And I heartily concur with the recommendation to take the coast option whenever it presents itself, I think it's posted as the E9 trail. If it weren't for all that asphalt, I'd be back on the Norte in a nanosecond, because it is so breathtakingly beautiful.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Greetings from Deba! I am attempting the craziness and finished today day 2. It's been a blast! You can check out my blog at surfcityperegrino.tumblr.com if you want... Thanks all again for the advice...

 

[peregrina2000]

Looking forward to hearing how it goes. Thanks for the link!

 

[Thornley]

Ok, again... Thanks for all the info. I hereby present option #4, based on the feedback thus far received. Option 3 was a stretch as I have already done the Muxia & Fisterre thing a few times and I like new places better.

Many of you have expressed your admiration for cities I would be passing through on the Norte with the other options, so this itinerary has significant adjustments to allow me to spend some time in some significant places. This also means some bad ass long days to make the schedule.

I am very grateful for all the input. What do you think?

Option 4 (Norte, Start in San Sebastion, hit some cities)
Day Walking Date From To Distance (K) Distance (M)
1 Friday, August 29, 2014 San Sebastion Zumaia 31.6 19.75
2 Saturday, August 30, 2014 Zumaia Markina 36.4 22.75
3 Sunday, August 31, 2014 Markina Hostel Eskerika 32.8 20.5
4 Monday, September 01, 2014 Hostel Eskerika Portugalete 35.8 22.375 River Route after Bilbao
5 Tuesday, September 02, 2014 Portugalete Castro Urdiales 27.6 17.25 Short route from Onton to Castro
6 Wednesday, September 03, 2014 Castro Urdiales Laredo 25 15.625 Short route from Pontarron to Hazas, if long route add 6.2k
7 Thursday, September 04, 2014 Laredo Guermes 29 18.125
8 Friday, September 05, 2014 Guermes Santander 15.4 9.625
9 Saturday, September 06, 2014 Santander Santillana del Mar 37 23.125
10 Sunday, September 07, 2014 Santillana del Mar San Vicente de la Barquera 33.6 21
11 Monday, September 08, 2014 San Vicente de la Barquera Llanes 40 25
12 Tuesday, September 09, 2014 Llanes Ribadesella 31.4 19.625
13 Wednesday, September 10, 2014 Ribadesella Sebrayo 31.6 19.75
14 Thursday, September 11, 2014 Sebrayo Gijon 35.8 22.375
15 Friday, September 12, 2014 Gijon Muros de Nalón 47.6 29.75
16 Saturday, September 13, 2014 Muros de Nalón Cadavedo 39 24.375
17 Sunday, September 14, 2014 Cadavedo La Caridad 45.4 28.375
18 Monday, September 15, 2014 La Caridad Lourenzá 50 31.25
19 Tuesday, September 16, 2014 Lourenzá Gontan 25.2 15.75
20 Wednesday, September 17, 2014 Gontan Baamonde 39.2 24.5
21 Thursday, September 18, 2014 Baamonde Sobrado dos Monxes 41.2 25.75
22 Friday, September 19, 2014 Sobrado dos Monxes Sta. Irene 38 23.75
23 Saturday, September 20, 2014 Sta. Irene Santiago 26 16.25
794.6 496.625

 

[jumpingin2014]

Greetings from Deba! I am attempting the craziness and finished today day 2. It's been a blast! You can check out my blog at surfcityperegrino.tumblr.com if you want... Thanks all again for the advice...

you keep posting and I will keep reading! I like this thread too! Thanks for sharing!

 

[Thornley]

Keep up the postings Damien and also tell us about the meals , especially the fish.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Ok, plan hit a little snag today that at the time seemed serious but now seems silly. Stupid me expected to walk from Ziortza to Lezama, show up at 6:30 pm and have their 20 bed donativo alburgue still have a spot left. Ummmmm... No. Darn, I'm exhausted, what do I do now? Well, luckily Hotel Matsa down the street is happy to take my credit card. I did not want, probably couldn't handle anything further today...

 

[peregrina2000]

Ok, plan hit a little snag today that at the time seemed serious but now seems silly. Stupid me expected to walk from Ziortza to Lezama, show up at 6:30 pm and have their 20 bed donativo alburgue still have a spot left. Ummmmm... No. Darn, I'm exhausted, what do I do now? Well, luckily Hotel Matsa down the street is happy to take my credit card. I did not want, probably couldn't handle anything further today...

Hi, Damien,
In my experience, that is about as serious a snag as you're going to find on the Norte, at least when it comes to accommodations. Having the funds to cover an occasional private room gives you a tremendous amount of freedom, since they are there in great quantities on the Norte. And in my experience, when I arrive at an albergue with no space, it usually means I've had a very long day, in which case the private option (and its promise of an uninterrupted sleep on clean sheets) is even more appealing than it usually would be. Hope you are enjoying the Norte, let us know your impressions when you have time. [edit -- oops, I just saw that you have a blog, so I will take a look there for your impressions!] Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Well again I was turned away from my intended destination, this time at the alburgue in Pobena. It was full by the time I arrived at 430 pm. I saw a lot of other pilgrims scrambling for solutions as the local hotel was closed for August vacation.

I think you are right that the longer days may lead to more changes of plans...

 

[Thornley]

Well again I was turned away from my intended destination, this time at the alburgue in Pobena. It was full by the time I arrived at 430 pm. I saw a lot of other pilgrims scrambling for solutions as the local hotel was closed for August vacation.

I think you are right that the longer days may lead to more changes of plans...

The most important part of the camino Damien is the walk and enjoyment.
If you have to sleep in nice rooms and clean sheets and a few euro's short , great.
It will get longer at the latter stages and there will be only a few spots to stay so pace yourself and smell the salt air.

 

[Thornley]

Great photo's on tumbler , enjoy the walk

 

[jumpingin2014]

Well again I was turned away from my intended destination, this time at the alburgue in Pobena. It was full by the time I arrived at 430 pm. I saw a lot of other pilgrims scrambling for solutions as the local hotel was closed for August vacation.

I think you are right that the longer days may lead to more changes of plans...

Just curious about a few things Damien if you don't mind sharing.

Is the trail well marked enough for the average person to follow?

You seem to be walking 40km per day. How long does it take you to walk this distance?

are you using the cicerone or some other source of guidebook/ plan?

Thanks for sharing and I am watching your blog and really enjoy it.

Buen Camino Dude!

 

[Alan Pearce]

Well again I was turned away from my intended destination, this time at the alburgue in Pobena. It was full by the time I arrived at 430 pm. I saw a lot of other pilgrims scrambling for solutions as the local hotel was closed for August vacation.

I think you are right that the longer days may lead to more changes of plans...

Hi Damien, where did you stay if the hotel was shut and the albergue was full?

Alan

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Just curious about a few things Damien if you don't mind sharing.

Is the trail well marked enough for the average person to follow?

You seem to be walking 40km per day. How long does it take you to walk this distance?

are you using the cicerone or some other source of guidebook/ plan?

Thanks for sharing and I am watching your blog and really enjoy it.

Buen Camino Dude!

Trail is totally well marked, but I usually have a little trouble in the big cities. That's usually where a trip to the information office helps. They give you this big map and they usually circle the important places.

I am using The Northern Caminos Cicerone guide by Dave W. And Laura P. It helps explain the alternative routes well, tho some of the info seems a little outdated. For example, there now IS a private alburgue next to the monastery in Ziortza. It's been great for finding hotels too when the alburgues are full.

I am walking b/t 30 and 40km a day. On the shorter days I leave around 7:30 and arrive at 4:30 or so. I have also arrived as late as 6:30 depending on terrain and how I am feeling.

Damien

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Hi Damien, where did you stay if the hotel was shut and the albergue was full?

Alan

I walked up the road and stayed at Hotel de Haya in between Pobena and Onton.

 

[Thornley]

I walked up the road and stayed at Hotel de Haya in between Pobena and Onton.

Great supply of accommodation on Norte Damien , and not too many albergues in comparison to other beds.
Enjoy what comes up , and PLEASE use the tourist offices lists of beds in the coming days......they are well ahead of any guide.

 

[mikevasey]

Yep you are crazy! Congratulations!!!! Have been following your blog, enjoy the evening in Santiago.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Ok, so after a whirlwind day yesterday I find myself in my Delta seat bound for Atl and the Lax. I did make it as planned, and walking the longer distances became quite routine. I have to admit that on this Camino I was more of a hotelegrino than I ever have been before. The long distances made for later arrival times and the norte's alburgue infrastructure just doesn't appear able to handle its traffic completely. Also, in general, the alburgues that were available just didn't appeal to me as much, though maybe I was spoiled by the hotel clean sheets and privacy and that affected my opinion.

The first half along the coast was especially beautiful, but after Gijon it was a bit of a let down. I would recommend walkers cross over to the primitivo and complete their Camino that way, having done both routes now.

At first I didn't understand why people complain about the asphalt walking, but by about day 6 or 7 it was fairly clear that there certainly was more road touring than I am used to.

The food was great, enjoyed seafood, sandwiches, and of course bacon and eggs.

I only modified my original plan slightly, as I found spreading the path out over rather equidistant days preferable to super long and short days made to reach particular destinations. I will put together a list of the destinations and where I stayed and include it in this thread.

Like usual, the best part of the trip was the people. I love the generally friendly and enthusiastic attitude shared by most peregrinos.

Anyhow... Thanks for anyone who came along and for the encouragement.

Damien

 

[Thornley]

Ok, so after a whirlwind day yesterday I find myself in my Delta seat bound for Atl and the Lax. I did make it as planned, and walking the longer distances became quite routine. I have to admit that on this Camino I was more of a hotelegrino than I ever have been before. The long distances made for later arrival times and the norte's alburgue infrastructure just doesn't appear able to handle its traffic completely. Also, in general, the alburgues that were available just didn't appeal to me as much, though maybe I was spoiled by the hotel clean sheets and privacy and that affected my opinion.

The first half along the coast was especially beautiful, but after Gijon it was a bit of a let down. I would recommend walkers cross over to the primitivo and complete their Camino that way, having done both routes now.

At first I didn't understand why people complain about the asphalt walking, but by about day 6 or 7 it was fairly clear that there certainly was more road touring than I am used to.

The food was great, enjoyed seafood, sandwiches, and of course bacon and eggs.

I only modified my original plan slightly, as I found spreading the path out over rather equidistant days preferable to super long and short days made to reach particular destinations. I will put together a list of the destinations and where I stayed and include it in this thread.

Like usual, the best part of the trip was the people. I love the generally friendly and enthusiastic attitude shared by most peregrinos.

Anyhow... Thanks for anyone who came along and for the encouragement.

Damien

Well done Damien,
However if Mike and i were keeping you company , you would still be at a little bar on the beach [ Superman ] very seedy , down a deserted path that heads to the headland.
Beautiful people once they know you are not fishing inspectors.
Great place to stay , without ANY tourists.
The road walking on the Norte is completely different than Frances , not as trying we found and always a little village nearby.
Enjoy the rest and i hope nothing went wrong at work....then again if that was/is the case you should still be out there on the path .
We will get you to go slow one day
Again , well done,
David

 

[jumpingin2014]

[QUOTE="Damien Reynolds, post: I will put together a list of the destinations and where I stayed and include it in this thread.[/QUOTE]


as I said before congrats Damien ......... looking forward to seeing this list. When we did the Camino Frances we stayed at hotels too as we walked so slow - my daughter stricken with blisters for the first 350 kms until we found shoes that worked for her. Was a pleasure following your camino and I wish you the best !

 

[shefollowsshells]

Ok, so after a whirlwind day yesterday I find myself in my Delta seat bound for Atl and the Lax. I did make it as planned, and walking the longer distances became quite routine. I have to admit that on this Camino I was more of a hotelegrino than I ever have been before. The long distances made for later arrival times and the norte's alburgue infrastructure just doesn't appear able to handle its traffic completely. Also, in general, the alburgues that were available just didn't appeal to me as much, though maybe I was spoiled by the hotel clean sheets and privacy and that affected my opinion.

The first half along the coast was especially beautiful, but after Gijon it was a bit of a let down. I would recommend walkers cross over to the primitivo and complete their Camino that way, having done both routes now.

At first I didn't understand why people complain about the asphalt walking, but by about day 6 or 7 it was fairly clear that there certainly was more road touring than I am used to.

The food was great, enjoyed seafood, sandwiches, and of course bacon and eggs.

I only modified my original plan slightly, as I found spreading the path out over rather equidistant days preferable to super long and short days made to reach particular destinations. I will put together a list of the destinations and where I stayed and include it in this thread.

Like usual, the best part of the trip was the people. I love the generally friendly and enthusiastic attitude shared by most peregrinos.

Anyhow... Thanks for anyone who came along and for the encouragement.

Damien

Way to go Damian!
I could tell from your first post you would pull this off AND enjoy it!!!!
I don't know how folks followed you, I am not seeing a blog ...I must be missing something, but off to look, would love to read of your travels!
Congrats!
Neve

 

[Alyssa]

This will be my 6th time on the Camino de Santiago. I am looking forward to new unexplored areas, and I have not yet been on El Camino del Norte.

I have a good bit of experience on the camino (Frances, San Salvador, Primitivo, Finisterre, Muxia,..).

I can walk fast and far. Because of my work life, I have had to.

For anyone familiar with the Norte route, does this itinerary work? Do you see anything you'd advise against?

Can't wait to be walking again.

Damien

Damien,
I really look forward to following your journey as I am trying to decide between doing the Francés again or doing the Norte for the first next summer. Buen Camino!

 

[shefollowsshells]

Just noticed your blog and enjoyed reading it and seeing your pictures.
Thank you for sharing!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Damien,
I really look forward to following your journey as I am trying to decide between doing the Francés again or doing the Norte for the first next summer. Buen Camino!

Alyssa - I've gone and come back already! Read about it at surfcityperegrino.tumblr.com

 

[Alyssa]

Alyssa - I've gone and come back already! Read about it at surfcityperegrino.tumblr.com

Fantastic! I can't wait to read about it!

 

[Alyssa]

I really enjoyed reading your blog Damien. Funny stories (strangegrino, cows...) and I particularly loved the breakfast of champions. I hope you don't mind answering a few questions.

Did you feel there was more pavement walking on the Norte than the Francés? If you hadn't been doing such long days, do you think it would have been easier to get a bed at the albergues? (I'm constrained by work as to when I can go; I will have to start around June 20). From the pics, I got the impression that there might not be as many cute, old little towns and villages on the Norte than the Francés; would you say that is the case? (One of the things I enjoyed most about the Francés was walking through the pueblos; I'm not a huge fan of cities and felt relieved every time I left them on the Francés).

Earlier in this thread you mentioned that the Primitivo was your favorite Camino. Do you still feel that way after walking the Norte and if so, why?

Thank you!

 

[smj6]

Loved the photos, Damien. I think this Camino could well line up to be my next one - after I have done my first one, of course!! I think I could be a Caminoholic before I even start!!
Suzanne

 

[Damien Reynolds]

I really enjoyed reading your blog Damien. Funny stories (strangegrino, cows...) and I particularly loved the breakfast of champions. I hope you don't mind answering a few questions.

Did you feel there was more pavement walking on the Norte than the Francés? If you hadn't been doing such long days, do you think it would have been easier to get a bed at the albergues? (I'm constrained by work as to when I can go; I will have to start around June 20). From the pics, I got the impression that there might not be as many cute, old little towns and villages on the Norte than the Francés; would you say that is the case? (One of the things I enjoyed most about the Francés was walking through the pueblos; I'm not a huge fan of cities and felt relieved every time I left them on the Francés).

Earlier in this thread you mentioned that the Primitivo was your favorite Camino. Do you still feel that way after walking the Norte and if so, why?

Thank you!

Oh my. Its been a while since I've been back here but lately more and more I've had the Camino on my mind, and now I find myself escaping again to plan the next. This last Camino really put the hook in me for good. From a purely physical standpoint it was probably the most challenging and most rewarding personal accomplishment of my life. 500 miles in 23 days. Hard core.

I am now being pulled back.

So I am sorry Allysa for taking so long to answer your questions, but I will answer them now to the best of my abilities.

I remember walking along with someone on the journey, I don't remember who or where, but I was describing to them the differences between the Norte and the Frances. I remember saying, "You know, they say the Norte has more pavement. They are right." So yes, more pavement. Fewer friendly single lane dirt paths through groves or meadows, they they do exist as well. I didn't mind the pavement. There was just more. Sometimes pavement can be a relief, especially after walking on crappy old Roman roads.

Would it have been easier for me to find a place at the alburgues if I wasn't walking such long distances? Damn straight. I am a relatively fast walker. When I walk shorter distances I tend to be an early arrival with the pick of the best bottom bunk. Now, that being said, even if I had arrived earlier and managed to find a spot at an alburgue when I was otherwise shut out I may not have had such a nice time. When all was said and done on this last trip I think I stayed in hotels on like 14 of the 22 nights or something like that. Hotels can offer a quite pleasant break on the Camino.

I think I would agree about there being fewer old little towns. I can tell you for sure there are fewer places to stop and get a beer. And definitely fewer washing machines and dryers.

Ok, now for the favorite camino question... Without a doubt I totally loved the coastal views of the Norte, and I totally loved the Alpine walks of the primitivo. Here's the thing... I'd say 85% of the best coastal views on the Norte are BEFORE the turn off to the primitivo... so in my mind the best scenic camino would be the first half of the Norte and then finish with the Primitivo. From a purely physical effort and scenic beauty standpoint I think that camino would be tough to beat.

My favorite Camino experiences however also tend to revolve around meeting interesting and friendly people... for that I have enjoyed most my trips on the Frances... Travelling at a pace that allows me to establish relationships beyond a night or two really makes a difference. My faster pace long distance Caminos have tended to be more rewarding physically but less so spirtually.

As far as the cities, I am not much of a fan either and I blew right through most of them. I purposely avoided staying in most of them.

Well I have begun to look up air fares again and trying to figure out where the Camino best fits in 2015. My current inclination is to go back to the Frances and try to make it from SJPDP to Santiago in about the same time as I travelled the Norte...

Damien

 

[Kanga]

@Damien Reynolds , have a think about walking Le Puy to SJPDP. It is very beautiful and quite sociable. Lots of Europeans, mainly French but other nationalities too. There is a wide choice of accommodation - gites (albergues) and good chambre d'hôtes (bed and breakfasts - some very luxurious) - lots of lovely villages, virtually no road walking.

 

[jumpingin2014]

[QUOTE="Kanga, post: have a think about walking Le Puy to SJPDP. It is very beautiful and quite sociable. Lots of Europeans, mainly French but other nationalities too. There is a wide choice of accommodation - gites (albergues) and good chambre d'hôtes (bed and breakfasts - some very luxurious) - lots of lovely villages, virtually no road walking.[/QUOTE]

Is this a difficult Camino to follow? How are the trail markings? I really like the look of the Le Puy route but it so long I will need at least 3 months for a fat old buggar like me to make it to SJPDP. France is such a nice country too I would expect a exceptional cultural experience that would meet or exceed the one we had on the Camino Frances. I am committed to the Camino Norte (especially after followong Damien's blog) in 2016 but after I would think the Le Puy would be fun!