Surprise Chemin!

[kelleymac]

Well, I stumbled upon a great price for a round trip ticket Toronto to Paris, for two weeks at the end of September, and now I am joyfully trying to figure out where to walk. I arrive in Paris on Sept 26 and fly back on Oct 10th. So I don't have much time. I have walked the Camino Frances, and am looking for recommendations on where to walk in France-- I have about 12 days, and can walk about 20 miles (32 km)/day. Please write with advice! (I am so happy!)

 

[Crazy Kiwiman]

Yeah there are some great airfares at the moment!
Try the first part of the LePuy route ( hilly but the most scenic ). You would be able to get to Cahors (354km) at that pace.
I am doing that route at the same time - but 'free camping'. Look out for an orange tent!

Good luck Kellymac
Buen Chemin

 

[Kitsambler]

Agreed. Take the train from CDF to Le Puy; you will change at Lyon and at St-Etienne. You can check the train schedules at the SNCF site or www.raileurope.com . You'll be able to get at least to Figeac, maybe to Cahors, depending on time inbound, rest day at Conques, and time outbound. From either Figeac or Cahors it will take an entire day to get back up to Paris, and you should stay at a hotel near CDG the night before departure.

 

[Penbaysail]

I've been on the LePuy route for 10 days and have had a tremendous experience. However, I'd caution going if your French language skills aren't sufficient for the necessities of getting food and phoning ahead for reservations. I haven't met any English speakers other than an Australian couple, and most everyone says I'm the first American they've seen in months. It's occasionally lonely at dinner as conversations swirl around beyond my comprehension, but I've also met a lot of friendly French & German hikers who make a sincere effort to communicate as best they can, as do I.

One of my best decisions was to visit the Free Mobile Center in Paris when I got off the plane. For 29€/month, I've had a French SIM card & phone number that has proven invaluable for making reservations a day ahead (the typical practice here). The other good part is communicating with other pilgrims as you make friends and trade calls, pictures, and texts. Calls to the U.S. & Canada are free, and 100 gb of data is included.

You'll also need a copy of the Miam Miam Dodo guidebook, and Michelin makes a slim mapbook that makes estimating distances easier. Many French pellerins carry both.

The French pellerin community is a fascinating experience with traditions that go back for centuries. It's been different and more complex than I expected, and I feel honored to be allowed to join as a pilgrim along with many French walkers. If this fits your interests, go for it!

 

[kelleymac]

Thanks for all reply! My French was never particularly good, and I've forgotten almost everything. I studied French at the Institute Catholique in Paris in the Summer of 1985-- so I can work on phrases and verbs before I get there. I love that the French have the patience to listen and wait for me to try to construct a sentence. My German is better, having lived in Heidelberg. -- My sister, who has rarely traveled in Europe or walked much, now is interested in going, so I am now not sure how fast we can go. -- My past walks were all with my teenage son who was always far out ahead of me insisting we could walk "just another 5 km", so 20km became an easy day, over 35 a hard one.

-- If I am solo, I am thinking of taking a tent too. How does the "free camping" work in France? Are there still campgrounds open that late in the year? I have a lightweight tent and pad, but it would still be adding 2.5 kilos. I might be able to borrow a friend's one man tent.. but still it does pack on the weight. I stayed in albergues on the Camino Frances, but I understand it's more expensive in France though meals are often included (as at Orrison).

I have Miam Miam Dodo, though I am having difficulties with the abbreviations. I have a French acquaintances here in Ithaca NY who can give me a hand with that-- Maybe they could help me with a blitz course in French too.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

How does the "free camping" work in France? Are there still campgrounds open that late in the year?

Camping is very restricted but poorly enforced. Campgrounds normally stay open until the end of October. Miam Miam Dodo will list campground information. The only camping people I met shipped their equipment home the first week!

Bon chemin.

 

[shefollowsshells]

Thanks for all reply! My French was never particularly good, and I've forgotten almost everything. I studied French at the Institute Catholique in Paris in the Summer of 1985-- so I can work on phrases and verbs before I get there. I love that the French have the patience to listen and wait for me to try to construct a sentence. My German is better, having lived in Heidelberg. -- My sister, who has rarely traveled in Europe or walked much, now is interested in going, so I am now not sure how fast we can go. -- My past walks were all with my teenage son who was always far out ahead of me insisting we could walk "just another 5 km", so 20km became an easy day, over 35 a hard one.

-- If I am solo, I am thinking of taking a tent too. How does the "free camping" work in France? Are there still campgrounds open that late in the year? I have a lightweight tent and pad, but it would still be adding 2.5 kilos. I might be able to borrow a friend's one man tent.. but still it does pack on the weight. I stayed in albergues on the Camino Frances, but I understand it's more expensive in France though meals are often included (as at Orrison).

I have Miam Miam Dodo, though I am having difficulties with the abbreviations. I have a French acquaintances here in Ithaca NY who can give me a hand with that-- Maybe they could help me with a blitz course in French too.

I too had forgotten almost all of my French and was responsible for five children carrying adult sized packs and slept outside every night in France ( might have been an exception or two but can't think of them).... so with that said I hope that helps put your mind at ease. Sigh, a year ago this week we were leaving out of Le Puy and my brain returns all day long lately....
I miss it so much!

 

[Kitsambler]

... if your French language skills aren't sufficient for ... phoning ahead for reservations.

That level of French, while helpful, is not absolutely necessary. I've found the lodging hosts, as well as tourism offices and other pilgrims (especially the bilingual Quebecois and Swiss) will gladly help with phoning ahead for you.

 

[Penbaysail]

Kellymac,

I thought about taking my tent and am very glad I didn't and instead mailed it ahead to Ivar. The gites far outnumber campgrounds, and they're closer to the Camino path. If you want to save money, you can make your own breakfast & dinner when feasible.

 

[Crazy Kiwiman]

How does the "free camping" work in France?

Free camping (not camp ground camping) is the best! No snoring - just birds to wake you.
There are some rules that you should follow such as:

• Leave it as you found it - take away your rubbish including toilet paper.
• If camping on farm land, ask the land owner (farmer) if you can camp on their land - whenever you ask they always seem to say yes!
• Don't light any fires or cut any trees
• Don't free camp if there is a campground close by - it is unfair to the campground owner.

You can often camp in the grounds of a Gite (again only if there is no campground nearby)
I tend to camp 2 nights then stay in a Gite the next - this allows me to catch up on washing, showering and eating.

Good luck

 

[jl]

However, I'd caution going if your French language skills aren't sufficient for the necessities of getting food and phoning ahead for reservations. I haven't met any English speakers

As someone who, when travelling as a pilgrim, only speaks the universal language of a smile, and as one who has walked both the le Puy and Vezelay paths, the latter having even less English, it can be done. As long as I could say hello, thank you, and smile I had no issues. Gestures work a treat too. Added to that the tourist offices are remarkably helpful. As well as France, I have walked on Camminos in Italy and Jakobsweg in Germany (where Russian was the second language), with minimal language, but always with the pilgrim precept of demanding nothing and accepting gratefully what is offered - works a treat!

Kelleymac - here's another thought too. What about starting at St Jacques Tour in Paris and walking from there? It is not spectacular country, but pretty, and you would have the option of walking either via Tours or the Loire Valley, down towards Biarritz. I only managed to walk one day out of Paris due to a back injury, but even with no signs I negotiated the suburbs quite easily, and after the day's walk I was more or less out of the suburbs.

 

[Glenshiro]

I happily endorse the suggestion to start in Le Puy - the local Amis have a welcome reception every evening at 29 Rue Cardinal de Polignac where you'll meet other pelerins. The scenery is magnificent and the food wonderful. I walked it in 100-mile stages over 5 years and never lost any weight!
I agree you will meet very few English speakers but I got by with schoolboy French (although you can't always find a schoolboy when you want one) and found other pelerins friendly and helpful. I think Figeac is probably far enough, and a very pretty town to end in, with a direct rail link to Paris. Let us know how you get on.

 

[Glenshiro]

PS - if you travel the Le Puy route, I recommend "The Way of St James, France" by Alison Raju, an erudite and indispensable guide. https://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/...tle/the-way-of-st-james---france#.Warf1vOGPe0

 

[Arbey48]

Hi Kelleymac,
Apart from the good advice offered above, I'd suggest you take a look at Chloe Rose's website - https://www.solocamino.com/ - which provides lots of good information and links to other info. In particular her suggested route seems very sensible.

I will be on the route from next weekend for just 10 days starting at the Cathedral at Le Puy and walking to Figeac. I'm using the Topo Guide Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle, for the maps plus MAPS.me app on my smartphone onto which I've loaded a .kmz file (more info here - https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...d-re-walking-the-del-norte.49231/#post-533772)

Although others have suggested Miam Miam Dodo, I am using Gites d'Etape et Refuges by Annick et Serge Mouraret because it is the most up to date source of accommodation available. You can purchase and download the sections you need - Zone 4 - and make your own PDF for the route, to keep your life simple. Mine is on my smartphone.

For language help I suggest using the app Talking Translator by Greenlife Apps, which I've been using during this past year. It will take single words, sentences and paragraphs if necessary!

I hope I haven't overloaded you; and I wish you a good camino.

Buen Camino,
Russell