LIVE from the Camino Superb weather on the Camino Vila do Conde to Barcelos

[Kippax]

Today was absolutely sensational weather, clear blue skies and maybe around 18 degrees. Absolutely gorgeous “winter” sunshine. Perhaps beginners luck. My son and I walked from Vila do Conde over to Barcelos. I was most impressed with the signage along the way. We left Santa Clara at around 0715 , as the local market fired up quite early and the hostel is adjacent to it. Arrived here at 1530, which includes maybe 90 minutes of stops along the way including lunch at Pedra Ferada.

 

[David Manzo]

Love Pedra Ferada. The day I arrived it was 37 degrees and I was hot and exhausted and just put my head down on the table.

 

[Kippax]

Today was absolutely sensational weather, clear blue skies and maybe around 18 degrees. Absolutely gorgeous “winter” sunshine. Perhaps beginners luck. My son and I walked from Vila do Conde over to Barcelos. I was most impressed with the signage along the way. We left Santa Clara at around 0715 , as the local market fired up quite early and the hostel is adjacent to it. Arrived here at 1530, which includes maybe 90 minutes of stops along the way including lunch at Pedra Ferada.

Day Three Barcelos to Ponte de Lima
Another glorious day, weather wise. It was very picturesque, with the way passing through lots of little hamlets and villages. It was quite hard on my feet with all the cobblestones and pavement. That said, I’d say 40 % was on forest tracks which was a lot easier on the feet. For me this was stage was characterised by lots of lovely citrus trees , all of which had plenty of fruit. I confess that I helped myself to a couple of oranges when they hung over the garden wall ! Unlike yesterday there were also plenty of water fountains along they way. So for us ,quite a tough stage, and to be honest, did not expect to get this far. Ironically my son’s feet are fine . Ironic because I’m the one with toe socks and outer woolly sock whereas he refuses to wear his only liner sock. Only 4 other people on the way, two of which were day trippers and two from Porto who are walking the Camino on weekends. There are 7 of us in the Albergue, 3 Spanish walking in “reverse “. Yesterday we had the Albergue to ourselves.

 

[Kippax]

Love Pedra Ferada. The day I arrived it was 37 degrees and I was hot and exhausted and just put my head down on the table.

Yep, I can imagine the Camino being hard yakka on a hot day and Pedra Ferada an oasis !

 

[robproct]

The walk up the long hill from Ponte de Lima was most enjoyable and challenging in parts. The best fun was stopping at Pesce on the way up the hill for refreshments. As I entered the bar the grand opening of Beethove's 5th Symphony was playing. I felt truly welcomed, and also enjoyed the snack and coffee. Quite a delightful place to a rest stop. Next was the reward at the top of the pass after clambering up all the rocks on what is nothing more than a goat trail.



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[Kippax]

Day Three Barcelos to Ponte de Lima
Another glorious day, weather wise. It was very picturesque, with the way passing through lots of little hamlets and villages. It was quite hard on my feet with all the cobblestones and pavement. That said, I’d say 40 % was on forest tracks which was a lot easier on the feet. For me this was stage was characterised by lots of lovely citrus trees , all of which had plenty of fruit. I confess that I helped myself to a couple of oranges when they hung over the garden wall ! Unlike yesterday there were also plenty of water fountains along they way. So for us ,quite a tough stage, and to be honest, did not expect to get this far. Ironically my son’s feet are fine . Ironic because I’m the one with toe socks and outer woolly sock whereas he refuses to wear his only liner sock. Only 4 other people on the way, two of which were day trippers and two from Porto who are walking the Camino on weekends. There are 7 of us in the Albergue, 3 Spanish walking in “reverse “. Yesterday we had the Albergue to ourselves.

Day 4 Ponte de Lima to Valenca
We weren’t planning to walk this far, as yesterday’s stage was hard. Hard on our feet especially. However, the terrain was a lot more forgiving, predominantly on forest trails, so much so that my little toe was not complaining at all. I found this stage a lot easier for this reason , even though a lot was uphill. There wasn’t much road traffic either, perhaps because it was a Sunday, winter or quite rural in general. Not as many gorgeous orange trees today and the mistake I made was not stopping at the last cafe before the climb began. Thankfully the restaurant at Rubiães was open and after a delicious chicken salad we pushed on ... another couple told us that the hostel wouldn’t open until 1900 and as they were catching the train back to Porto from Valenca, they kindly gave us a few muesli bars in case we needed them.
As usual, the last 5km were the hardest, mostly on pavement. That said, our legs are much better than yesterday though one foot now seems a bit bruised underneath feet.

 

[Kippax]

Day 4 Ponte de Lima to Valenca
We weren’t planning to walk this far, as yesterday’s stage was hard. Hard on our feet especially. However, the terrain was a lot more forgiving, predominantly on forest trails, so much so that my little toe was not complaining at all. I found this stage a lot easier for this reason , even though a lot was uphill. There wasn’t much road traffic either, perhaps because it was a Sunday, winter or quite rural in general. Not as many gorgeous orange trees today and the mistake I made was not stopping at the last cafe before the climb began. Thankfully the restaurant at Rubiães was open and after a delicious chicken salad we pushed on ... another couple told us that the hostel wouldn’t open until 1900 and as they were catching the train back to Porto from Valenca, they kindly gave us a few muesli bars in case we needed them.
As usual, the last 5km were the hardest, mostly on pavement. That said, our legs are much better than yesterday though one foot now seems a bit bruised underneath feet.

Day 5 Valenca to Mos
Winter sort of arrived , leaving Valenca in light drizzle that ceased after a couple of hours. Have they invented glasses with wipers yet ?
It would have been nice to spend some time looking around at both Valenca and TUI but press on we must. Today’s stage was quite hard, I think in part to us being pretty fatigued and all sorts of aches and pains appearing. The stage itself was largely hard surfaces or so it seemed. We’re walking around 4 km per hour. The Albergue in MOs is beautiful, well heated and we have it all to ourselves. It also has a washing machine . Alas nothing else is open (Lesson here, don’t rely on Google), except the cafe which does a frozen pizza or lasagne or sandwiches. Unfortunately someone snuck into the Albergue whilst we were at the cafe and stole my Powerbank that I’d left to recharge. This is a bit of a blow as I check the wise pilgrim app every 30 mins or so and whenever there is any doubt and I typically news to give me my phone charge around 1400. And it’s also cast a bit of a pall over what until then had been very tranquil.

The only silver lining is that it was a tad heavy so perhaps I’ll be able to pick up a lighter one along the way.

 

[Kippax]

Day 5 Valenca to Mos
Winter sort of arrived , leaving Valenca in light drizzle that ceased after a couple of hours. Have they invented glasses with wipers yet ?
It would have been nice to spend some time looking around at both Valenca and TUI but press on we must. Today’s stage was quite hard, I think in part to us being pretty fatigued and all sorts of aches and pains appearing. The stage itself was largely hard surfaces or so it seemed. We’re walking around 4 km per hour. The Albergue in MOs is beautiful, well heated and we have it all to ourselves. It also has a washing machine . Alas nothing else is open (Lesson here, don’t rely on Google), except the cafe which does a frozen pizza or lasagne or sandwiches. Unfortunately someone snuck into the Albergue whilst we were at the cafe and stole my Powerbank that I’d left to recharge. This is a bit of a blow as I check the wise pilgrim app every 30 mins or so and whenever there is any doubt and I typically news to give me my phone charge around 1400. And it’s also cast a bit of a pall over what until then had been very tranquil.

The only silver lining is that it was a tad heavy so perhaps I’ll be able to pick up a lighter one along the way.

Day 6 Mos to Arcade (and the Pontevedra)
It rained ! I can see why people don’t walk in winter. I also decided to wear sandals without socks which was a good move. The surface was a mixture of pavement and forest trails and we were able to avoid major puddles and mud by stepping gingerly around affected areas. Quick stop in Redondela for a stamp and a coffee and onwards to Cesantes. My Ventile jacket that I’ve owned for 20 years leaked. So walking for me was quite unpleasant and cold. Quite enjoyed the section from Cesantes to Arcade, forest tracks for some of the way and nice views though quite grey. We were also given a boost by the massive meal we were served at the Jumboli bar at Cesantes.
I have also noticed that the official distances per the wayside makers differ from the WisePilgrim. Not really a big deal but I wonder which is more accurate?
Unfortunately at Arcade we decided to catch the train to Pontevedra to mitigate further knee problems and buy a new jacket ! So no compostela for us.

 

[Kippax]

Day 6 Mos to Arcade (and the Pontevedra)
It rained ! I can see why people don’t walk in winter. I also decided to wear sandals without socks which was a good move. The surface was a mixture of pavement and forest trails and we were able to avoid major puddles and mud by stepping gingerly around affected areas. Quick stop in Redondela for a stamp and a coffee and onwards to Cesantes. My Ventile jacket that I’ve owned for 20 years leaked. So walking for me was quite unpleasant and cold. Quite enjoyed the section from Cesantes to Arcade, forest tracks for some of the way and nice views though quite grey. We were also given a boost by the massive meal we were served at the Jumboli bar at Cesantes.
I have also noticed that the official distances per the wayside makers differ from the WisePilgrim. Not really a big deal but I wonder which is more accurate?
Unfortunately at Arcade we decided to catch the train to Pontevedra to mitigate further knee problems and buy a new jacket ! So no compostela for us.

Day 7 Pontevedea to Caldas de Reis
This was one of the best days I’ve had on the Camino. My son decided to catch the bus so I only had to worry about myself. Even though it rained all day, it was a gentle soft rain that farmers back home in Australia would give their back teeth for. The new jacket performed as it should. The terrain was mainly trails, so easy on the feet. The highlight for me was the break at the bar at SAN Amaro, where I had a wonderful bocadillo and a couple of coffees. About 30 minutes after that I caught up with two others, an Italian man in his 70s who’d walked from Lisbon and was very simply equipped, just runners and what seemed like a day pack. Put me to shame. And a Portugués guy who was meeting his girlfriend in SdC for the trip back home. Very tranquil day, close to nature. Paths were great, well drained and it looked like some improvements were being made. Caldas de Reis is a nice little town, be great to re-visit when it’s not raining so much. It also has a great Intersport store where I picked up a pack cover, an essential bit of kit that I didn’t have.
As always, I walked in shorts and today wore boots all day

 

[Kippax]

Day 7 Pontevedea to Caldas de Reis
This was one of the best days I’ve had on the Camino. My son decided to catch the bus so I only had to worry about myself. Even though it rained all day, it was a gentle soft rain that farmers back home in Australia would give their back teeth for. The new jacket performed as it should. The terrain was mainly trails, so easy on the feet. The highlight for me was the break at the bar at SAN Amaro, where I had a wonderful bocadillo and a couple of coffees. About 30 minutes after that I caught up with two others, an Italian man in his 70s who’d walked from Lisbon and was very simply equipped, just runners and what seemed like a day pack. Put me to shame. And a Portugués guy who was meeting his girlfriend in SdC for the trip back home. Very tranquil day, close to nature. Paths were great, well drained and it looked like some improvements were being made. Caldas de Reis is a nice little town, be great to re-visit when it’s not raining so much. It also has a great Intersport store where I picked up a pack cover, an essential bit of kit that I didn’t have.
As always, I walked in shorts and today wore boots all day

Caldas to Padrón
It rained ! This was the first time when parts of the track were completely underwater and I was glad that I’d decided to wear sandals again . The backpack cover I bought didn’t cut the mustard, unlike my sons which he’d bought at Decathlon. It wad quite a pleasant stage, easy on the feet and mainly on forest tracks again. And relatively short. We met two other Spanish pilgrims, who’d started in TUI.