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Starting VDLP in Seville - better to stay in Triana?

JustJack

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CF: 2023
VDLP/Sanabrés: 2024
CF: 2025
I booked a bed in an albergue in the old part of Seville, without giving it much thought, because I always tend to stay in the old part of a city. However I'm wondering if I maybe should have booked a place in Triana? I know nothing about Seville, so this might be a dumb question.

I'll be in Seville for two nights before walking. I need to pick up a credential, get a SIM card, and stock up on some food, but that's about all. Any remaining time will be spent wandering around the city.

So better to stay in the historic center of Seville, or in Triana?

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
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JustJack said:
So better to stay in the historic center of Seville, or in Triana?
Click to expand...


If you’re going to spend a day there to be out and about, it seems to make sense to stay in the historic center. But lots of Vdlp pilgrims stay in Triana Backpackers Hostel. It’s about 1.5 km from the Cathedral, Giralda, Alcázar, etc. and very close to the camino, which goes through Triana. I don’t think it makes much difference, except I suppose you are more likely to meet others starting out if you stay in Triana, if that’s of interest. There’s lots to see in Sevilla, and it’s a very walkable city.
 
Not a lot of difference really. I stayed in the old part last year so as to be close to things, and as @peregrina2000 says, you are soon out of the centre, across the bridge and onto the path by the river.
 
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Get a Spanish mobil number + data while on the Camino
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Many thanks, and yeah I think it makes sense to keep my booking in the center. Meeting other pilgrims would be a bonus, but not worth changing my reservation for.

And on a related note, I wasn't aware of the festival in Seville the week following Easter. Triana Backpackers hostel is 46 euros per night for a dorm bed. Yikes...
 

Don't expect to meet many other Pilgrims.
Whereas you might have 300 / day leaving St Jean in peak season on the Frances.
Leaving Seviila on the VdlP? maybe 10? 15 Max?
You might see 1 or 2 on the trail.
The most I ever met in one day on the trail, was 7 I think.
Wow that felt crazy busy!
Like "what are all these people doing here"?

The most ever in one place, like a bar/cafe was 10 I think.
Felt like a Pilgrim 'rush hour'.
That was in Villanueva de Campeán, which was one of those small places that was an obvious end point for the day (to avoid a long day) and with only one place to stay.

Maybe others came across more?
 
Yep, I chose this camino specifically because it has fewer pilgrims. I planned it just a couple months after walking the CF where it was difficult to avoid the large number of pilgrims. Although that said, I'm now beginning to wonder if I'm going to find the VDLP toooo quiet and lonely. Be careful what you wish for! Oh well, I'm certain it's going to be fantastic even if it does turn out to be lonely. Besides, I have the option of continuing on and joining the CF instead of taking the Sanabres if I'm really missing being around lots of people. I doubt that will be the case though.
 
Get a Spanish mobil number + data while on the Camino
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
JustJack said:
And on a related note, I wasn't aware of the festival in Seville the week following Easter. Triana Backpackers hostel is 46 euros per night for a dorm bed. Yikes...
Click to expand...
Hi there Jack.
Buen camino .. where did you book in the historic section of Sevilla? Wondering what the rate was there .. it could help others looking for accommodation.

Re company - I found there was usually someone around to talk to if I was in the mood for company. I found some finished in Mérida., whereas others started etc. People start and stop in quite a few stages… Cáceres …. Salamanca, Zamora, and of course the 100k starters from Ourense.
I loved the Vdlp.
You’ll enjoy it I’m sure.
 
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J Willhaus said:
From what I understand, Triana is a bit of a party place so keep that in mind. Do you want a quiet night or a social night before setting out?
Click to expand...
From your personal experience? Not mine, at least during the 2 or 3 times I've stayed there but it doesn't matter since the OP has posted that he is keeping his original reservation.

The Plata is a great Camino for solitude, I never saw more than a handful of pilgrims but then again I walked it in the summer and winter.
 
Get a Spanish mobil number + data while on the Camino
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Im personally pushing for Santiponce (9km from Cathedral) the same day as my plane lands. Got the idea from Robos videos

From Google Maps I have seen a Carrefour Express right on the route before it splits:
Calle, Rda. de Triana, 2, 41010 Sevilla, Spain

If you go through Camas then also a Mercadona will be on the route:
Av. Alcalde Manuel Cabello, S/N, 41900 Camas, Sevilla, Spain
 
JustJack said:
Although that said, I'm now beginning to wonder if I'm going to find the VDLP toooo quiet and lonely.
Click to expand...
I doubt that. There were always people around when we walked it in 2012 so it is unlikely to have got quieter since then. The numbers grow as you head north and after every big city but there was never a bed race. It´s a great camino, and one of the joys was seeing the landscape and the weather and the way of life and culture change as you head north across one distinct region after another. You are walking through the heart of Spain all the way.
 
JustJack said:
I wasn't aware of the festival in Seville the week following Easter.
Click to expand...
La Féria de Abril starts on the 14th. Sevilla will be 100%, 24 hour party zone and Triana edges the festival grounds. Féria can be pretty bewildering to anyone who has not encountered it before. That said once clear of the city the tranquility will be even more striking
 
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dick bird said:
I doubt that. There were always people around when we walked it in 2012 so it is unlikely to have got quieter since then.
Click to expand...
Numbers walking the VdlP have dropped slightly since 2012. The VdlP has not shared in the growth that many other routes have seen in recent years. Still too big a physical challenge to be easily packaged and sold as an easy walking holiday. Depending on the time of year it can be a very quiet route. I walked it from Sevilla in January and February in 2022 and I doubt if I saw more than 20 other pilgrims over the entire 1000km. At several points I walked for multiple days without seeing one other pilgrim.
 
What! Don't blame me.
I had a day off in Sevilla before I even started!

But a slow start, just walking to Santiponce. with a look around the Roman Ruins was a nice was to ease into it.
 
Robo said:
What! Don't blame me.
I had a day off in Sevilla before I even started!

But a slow start, just walking to Santiponce. with a look around the Roman Ruins was a nice was to ease into it.
Click to expand...
A look around the Roman ruins was nice, but not exactly the equal of a look around the Alcázar. Spend a day in Seville. I didn´t when we walked the VdlP. Ten years later I was back in Seville and realised what I´d missed.
 
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Everywhere is much more expensive during Semana Santa. You won’t get much sleep in Triana. I stayed there at the end of my Camino so it didn’t matter so much. Staying in your own room might be a better idea before you start.
 
dick bird said:
There were always people around when we walked it in 2012
Click to expand...
JustJack said:
I'm now beginning to wonder if I'm going to find the VDLP toooo quiet and lonely.
Click to expand...
Bradypus said:
Numbers walking the VdlP have dropped slightly since 2012.
Click to expand...
I walked Seville-Astorga in 2017, and have done some pieces other years. I was never in an albergue alone until after Granja de Moreruela, when most people turn west. I was always aware of about 10-15 people within a stage, although I didn't see all of them every day. There was almost always a small group to have dinner with, but no expectations of "walking together."

It was the perfect number for me.
 
I booked at a place called room007 Salvador Hostal. I booked it a few months ago when I heard there was a festival in town. I paid 74 euros for two nights, for a bunk bed in a dorm room. It's sold out now, and I suspect they charged even more for later bookings. 50 euros per night for a bunk bed, if you can find it today...
 
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Great spot. Easy walk to Patio San Eloy and several other excellent bars and a little away from the Féria frenzy. Sadly most of the best bars and restaurants close for Féria. On the other hand this place https://www.facebook.com/people/Las-Columnas-Sevilla/100071746060761/ wouldn't close for the end-of-the-world.

Oh, and an easy walk to Triana and the Camino

Enjoy!!
 
Don't forget that there's no breakfast and lunch options in a lot of the small towns. I bought food the night before for breakfast and lunch the next day. A microwavable cup and instant coffee bags is handy too.
 
Indeed and the previous week, 6th April, is the Copa Del Ray final, Spain’s premier football cup final, which ads about 80k worth of people in the city and affects ‘busyness’ of trains and buses in and out of Seville. The finalists aren’t know yet, but for example last year (also in Seville), Osasuna (Pamplona) were in the final so about 40k folks travelled to Seville from Pamplona before the game and back afterwards. The other finalists were Real Madrid whose fans tend to come from everywhere, as do Barcelona.
 
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LTfit said:
From your personal experience? Not mine, at least during the 2 or 3 times I've stayed there but it doesn't matter since the OP has posted that he is keeping his original reservation.
Click to expand...
I agree, I have heard people saying it is a party place and very noisy but not in my experience. It was full of young people , yes but very quiet and peaceful. I would stay there again.
 
domigee said:
I agree, I have heard people saying it is a party place and very noisy but not in my experience. It was full of young people , yes but very quiet and peaceful. I would stay there again.
Click to expand...
The hostel in Triana has a dedicated dorm for pilgrims and will stamp your credential..
 
C clearly said:
I was never in an albergue alone until after Granja de Moreruela, when most people turn west.
Click to expand...
I anticipate there being at least a handful of pilgrims everywhere I stop, as I'm walking at a popular time. But I've heard various reports of pilgrims finding themselves all alone in an albergue on the VDLP, and to be honest I hope I get to experience that once. Not sure why, but the idea seems really interesting, having the whole place to yourself. I'll be staying mostly at municipal albergues so who knows, it just might happen.
 
Get a Spanish mobil number + data while on the Camino
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Jack I think you are going to love VDLP.
The Trianna Hostel was a bit too young and noisy for my taste but I still had a good enough time. I’m sure it’s different at other times. Historic centre is a good choice.
I walked in autumn and in the early weeks walked with two different groups of Spaniards - great fun.
After that I walked alone but usually met people on the road or in an albergue. I did have a week or so of being the solo albergue resident. I loved it.
I would still opt for Sanabres. There were more people than earlier on the Via but always plenty of beds.
Buen Camino
 
dick bird said:
A look around the Roman ruins was nice, but not exactly the equal of a look around the Alcázar. Spend a day in Seville. I didn´t when we walked the VdlP. Ten years later I was back in Seville and realised what I´d missed.
Click to expand...
Very true, I did that on my day off beforer strating, and the Cathedral of course.
 
Seville is amazing city lovely to walk around in, I think you’ve made a good plan. I love having rest days in large cities along caminos soaking up the culture and sights like Burgos, Leon.Oviedo Lisboa Porto I plan to do Vdlp this year and looking forward to soaking up the culture in cities like Caceres Merida Salamanca etc. check out Robs Camino Vdlp on YouTube or Nadine Walks Truely inspirational and btw Buen Camino
 
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Hi Jack we will be in Seville from the 2nd of April heading out on the 5th may see you on the trail?
All the best Bill & Sandra
 
As other people have pointed out, Triana isn't far from the city centre, do it doesn't make an awful lot of difference. It's also handier for the Camino!
 
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Hi jack
I start in June and I’ve decided to stay in Triana, the pilgrim office is 5mins walk away and you’re also on the right side of the river to start and breakfast is included in the 15euros price. A couple of pilgrims have stayed there and rate it very good.
 
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I loved Triana. Some people complain about it (too many young people, too much noise etc) but we had absolutely no problems with it, perfect location and lovely people.
 
domigee said:
I loved Triana. Some people complain about it (too many young people, too much noise etc) but we had absolutely no problems with it, perfect location and lovely people.
Click to expand...
Just don’t go at Easter.
 
J Willhaus said:
From what I understand, Triana is a bit of a party place so keep that in mind. Do you want a quiet night or a social night before setting out?
Click to expand...
It wasn’t when I stayed there and yes, lots and lots of young people but no parties
Most of them were on the roof top chilling out quietly, just like I was
 
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