LIVE from the Camino Starting the Olvidado on Sept 18 2019

[MikeJS]

I plan to fly into Bilbao on wed 18 Sept to take another stroll on the camino to Santiago de Compostela. Formally, heading off on 19 Sep. This time I plan to walk from Bilbao to Cinera on the Camino Olviado then switch to Camino San Salvador before heading to Santiago de Compostela on Camino Primitivo. As always a plan is just a basis for change and in the end it all depends on weather, fitness and health.

I will try to keep this thread updated for the Olvidado section and then will start a new thread for each of the other routes.

 

[jerbear]

Enjoy the walk.....

 

[Elena peregrina]

Hi Mike - we've just walked the Olvidado from Bilbao to La Robla then the San Salvador and have arrived in Oviedo about an hour ago. If you have any questions about Olvidado, please feel free to ask. Carry 2 days of food at all times and you should be fine It's a fabulous camino. We met lovely local people, but no other pilgrims. Enjoy!

 

[peregrina2000]

I plan to fly into Bilbao on wed 18 Sept to take another stroll on the camino to Santiago de Compostela. Formally, heading off on 19 Sep. This time I plan to walk from Bilbao to Cinera on the Camino Olviado then switch to Camino San Salvador before heading to Santiago de Compostela on Camino Primitivo. As always a plan is just a basis for change and in the end it all depends on weather, fitness and health.

I will try to keep this thread updated for the Olvidado section and then will start a new thread for each of the other routes.

WONDERFUL!! Mike, would you like me to tell Ender about your whereabouts (days near Boñar, La Robla, Pola de Gordón or Buiza are the closest to his home)? I know that if he is around, he would make an effort to go say hi.

Really looking forward to reading all about your adventures, the Olvidado is one of my top two or three without a doubt!!!! Buen camino, amigo, Laurie

 

[MikeJS]

Hi Mike - we've just walked the Olvidado from Bilbao to La Robla then the San Salvador and have arrived in Oviedo about an hour ago. If you have any questions about Olvidado, please feel free to ask. Carry 2 days of food at all times and you should be fine It's a fabulous camino. We met lovely local people, but no other pilgrims. Enjoy!

Thank you. I always carry extra food and water (sometimes even wine!)

 

[MikeJS]

WONDERFUL!! Mike, would you like me to tell Ender about your whereabouts (days near Boñar, La Robla, Pola de Gordón or Buiza are the closest to his home)? I know that if he is around, he would make an effort to go say hi.

Really looking forward to reading all about your adventures, the Olvidado is one of my top two or three without a doubt!!!! Buen camino, amigo, Laurie

Yes, do please tell Ender as I would love to meet hime as he seems to have done so much for this route. I can also ask him why his routes on the app and his wikiloc tracks are different, especially as you leave Bilbao!

 

[MikeJS]

Does anyone know if the ALBERGUE JUVENIL SONCILLO accepts periginos?

 

[QuailHiker]

Looking forward to your reports, Mike. hope to do the Olvidado next spring. Buen Camino!

 

[MikeJS]

Daily Notes

Flew into Bilbao without incident and took the bus to the city centre. Then walked to the cathedral for the start of the camino. Like most of the large cities on the Caminos the marking for the routes are hard to see even if they do exist! On most of my Caminos I have normally found a sign that designates the start but I missed it in Bilbao. Not that it mattered as I had already decided to follow Enders route along the river as it passed very close to my room for the night! Finally saw a yellow arrow about 4 Kms along the river bank and then there were lots. I head off to Balmaseda tomorrow for my first real day. It was 25 degrees and overcast in Bilbao today.

 

[MikeJS]

Anyone know if the Albergue Cantabria Aventura in Arroyo excepts peregrines?

 

[Elena peregrina]

Anyone know if the Albergue Cantabria Aventura in Arroyo excepts peregrines?

W

Anyone know if the Albergue Cantabria Aventura in Arroyo excepts peregrines?

. When we were there (about 3 weeks ago) it was closed. Maybe only open for group bookings?

 

[MikeJS]

W
. When we were there (about 3 weeks ago) it was closed. Maybe only open for group bookings?

That limits my choice. I really wanted to stop at Arroyo.

 

[MikeJS]

Bilbao hostel to Balmaseda 33 Kms.
Left just after 0715 and arrived at the beautiful hotel convento san roque in Balmaseda just after 1400. It made a pleasant change to have a choice of places for coffee this morning as I was in the city! Often I don’t get a coffee until after 1100. The cafes also all had a great choice of breakfast pinchos . I continued to follow Enders route along the river until I got to puente del diablo where I saw my first camino signs. Thereafter the route was well marked and it basically followed the river valley to Balmaseda. Overall, it was better than expected as the river was within hearing most of the time and although the first section is a little industrial, most is now defunct with a lot of pre and post 19th century water powered mills and factories. The majority of the walk is on tarmac or concrete and much is on a cycle path. Sections have be caste in situ with a cobblestone pattern - very uncomfortable. Luckily, despite it being a clear blue sky, much of the path was in shade so I stayed coolish until after 1100. Stoped at Guenes for a free drink - an offer to peregrinos if you complete their online surveys about a potential Albergue (AdP) - and I had a pincho of omelette and crab for breakfast. Now staying at the rather grand hotel which gave a pilgrim price of 33 euros for a lovely double room. Feet and body seem fine although my shoulders ache - I must adjust my waist strap - I plan to head for Espinosa de los Monteros tomorrow.

 

[peregrina2000]

Bilbao hostel to Balmaseda 33 Kms.
Left just after 0715 and arrived at the beautiful hotel convento san roque in Balmaseda just after 1400. It made a pleasant change to have a choice of places for coffee this morning as I was in the city! Often I don’t get a coffee until after 1100. The cafes also all had a great choice of breakfast pinchos . I continued to follow Enders route along the river until I got to puente del diablo where I saw my first camino signs. Thereafter the route was well marked and it basically followed the river valley to Balmaseda. Overall, it was better than expected as the river was within hearing most of the time and although the first section is a little industrial, most is now defunct with a lot of pre and post 19th century water powered mills and factories. The majority of the walk is on tarmac or concrete and much is on a cycle path. Sections have be caste in situ with a cobblestone pattern - very uncomfortable. Luckily, despite it being a clear blue sky, much of the path was in shade so I stayed coolish until after 1100. Stoped at Guenes for a free drink - an offer to peregrinos if you complete their online surveys about a potential Albergue (AdP) - and I had a pincho of omelette and crab for breakfast. Now staying at the rather grand hotel which gave a pilgrim price of 33 euros for a lovely double room. Feet and body seem fine although my shoulders ache - I must adjust my waist strap - I plan to head for Espinosa de los Monteros tomorrow.

We stayed at the San Roque, too and it felt very luxurious. Good price but we got a lot of indifferent treatment. But the comfy bed more than made up for it.

Don’t forget to give me a heads up a few days before a place for an Ender meet-up!

And if you meet Adolfo in Nava de Ordunte say hi from Laurie/Laura! He walked with us for a half day and is a wonderful guy. Would love to hear how the albergue there is proceeding. Buen camino, great pics and notes!

 

[omicko]

Does anyone know if the ALBERGUE JUVENIL SONCILLO accepts periginos?

Look at my Camino Olvidado Guide from Bilbao - May 2018. Everything in the guide has been verified for Perigrinos. The Albergue is not situated on the camino into Soncillo or on the camino out of Soncillo but is about 1 km out of Soncillo. 12 Euros to sleep there. Mick.

 

[omicko]

That limits my choice. I really wanted to stop at Arroyo.

I didn't put it in my guide because I could never get a reply from the Albergue.
You can still stay in Arroyo at the Hotel La Lobera but it is expensive. I had coffee and biscuits and the company of Pilar for one hour. Mick.

 

[omicko]

We stayed at the San Roque, too and it felt very luxurious. Good price but we got a lot of indifferent treatment. But the comfy bed more than made up for it.

Don’t forget to give me a heads up a few days before a place for an Ender meet-up!

And if you meet Adolfo in Nava de Ordunte say hi from Laurie/Laura! He walked with us for a half day and is a wonderful guy. Would love to hear how the albergue there is proceeding. Buen camino, great pics and notes!

I've just finished the Camino Lebaniego, Camino Vadiniense and the Camino de San Salvador. 2 days ago I stayed in the albergue of Adolfo. Some small rooms with bunk beds.Kitchen and the showers are finished. Some work still needs to be done. Laurie It brought a smile to his face when I mentioned your name. Mick.

 

[Elena peregrina]

That limits my choice. I really wanted to stop at Arroyo.

Try calling them to see if it's open?

 

[MikeJS]

Try calling them to see if it's open?

Had no answer so far.

 

[MikeJS]

I didn't put it in my guide because I could never get a reply from the Albergue.
You can still stay in Arroyo at the Hotel La Lobera but it is expensive. I had coffee and biscuits and the company of Pilar for one hour. Mick.

I have sent the Lobera a message to see if they have a room for the night of the 22 September. Waiting for a reply.

 

[MikeJS]

Balmaseda to Espinosa de los Monteros 43 kms.
A long day today but it fits in well with my other days plans. I started at 0720 and arrived at 1625. I had planned to stop a few times on the way for a coffee and pinchos. Unfortunately, all the bars I saw were closed!
The first few kms out of Balmaseda were a little dull as it was mostly along the main road. However, this soon changed and there was plenty of road with a fair bit on a medieval road that was fascinating if a little uncomfortable. Passed what must be a spectacular waterfall, but it was mostly dry today. Also saw a lot of wild flowers and in particular lots of wild crocus. I planned to use Enders app and his Wikiloc route today. This is my first camino using Wikiloc and I am now a fan as it beeps if you wander of course so you don’t need to keep looking at the map. However, there were a few places where either the 2 apps did not agree or the yellow arrows were pointing in a different direction. Not a major problem as I new they would all take me to my destination. At once point i chose to follow the Wikiloc route which gradually got overgrown and harder to walk along. Although there were still the occasional arrows. All the routes join up again so it just adds to the fun! That said the yellow markings were not as good today and it would have been awkward without the gps tracks. Off to Soncillo tomorrow which should only be about 34 kms. Staying at the Hotel Rural la Casa del Montero tonight and all seems good. Looking forward to something hearty to eat tonight. Gave in with most ofpkthe photos as this site is so slow to upload! Facebook did it in seconds!!

 

[MikeJS]

Espinosa to Soncillo 30 kms
Had heavy rain and thunder storms yesterday evening and overnight, but it was dry again this morning. A bit cooler today after yesterday’s 30 deg so that and the great track made it a good day. Most of the way was on very rural tracks with the limestone escarpments dominant to the south. The track was a little muddy in places and parts would be very difficult in the rain. However, the markings were excellent, although the odd one was a little faded ( see photo ) and very easy to follow. Unusually, I had a coffee at the start of the day and stopped half way in Quisicedo at a great bar for another coffee and a mid morning snack. Had what was the best ‘crackling’ I have ever had and a pincho of Serrano ham with stuffed pepper. Yum yum and only 3.80 euros. Now staying in the Hotel El Capricho de Clemente which has very large rooms at charge 35 euros half board! Seems to be the Spanish equivalent of the Italian mille mille today in Soncillo as there have been lots of classic cars going through the town!

 

[MikeJS]

Soncillo to Olea 49kms
It was not the day I thought I had planned! There was much talk in the bar last night of heavy rain for today with thunder storms in the early afternoon. It rain hard overnight but was clear this morning and I had planned to walk to Arroyo and stay at La Lobera. As it was only about 28 km I decided to just walk quickly and then I should miss most of the storms. I stopped at Arija for a coffee and pincho and was well ahead of my time. Also the sky still looked clear with no signs of storms. I walked on and soon realised I would be at La Lobera around 1300 which is much earlier than I like to stop. I looked at the alternatives and Olea seemed the only option with accommodation but was not sure about walking another 20 ish kms. Got to La Lobera at just after 1300 having decided to stay there after all. However, I was told the room would not be ready for at least 2 hours. Didn’t fancy sitting around so said sorry but I would not be staying. Hence I ended up on Olea. This makes tomorrow’s walk easier as now I only have 24kms over the hills to Aguilar. However, having not intended to be at Casa Miguel in Olea I arrive with nothing but emergency rations. Miguel solved this by taking me to his friends (now closed) resturant, who supplies me with a take away plus a cold beer and vino tinto. What more could I want? As for the walk itself - it was a very pleasant day with mostly rural scenery. Lots of tarmac but surprisingly plenty of wild life, including deer, foxes, hedgehogs, snakes and a colourful lizard as well a a few semi wild horses. Only the lizard stayed around for a photo! The scenery was very interesting and the Ebro reservoir is in view for most of the day. The last few kms included a couple of hills just to extend the exercise. Most surprisingly there were 2 other Spanish peregrinos here walking the Olviado. Now Miguel has invited me to try his wine!

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow, Bilbao to Arija in 5 days! Another member for the @BeatriceKarjalainen club!

Casa Miguel in Olea was a dream night for us, such wonderful people with such a nice place. I know they are more focused on tourists, and that they are frequently full, but they have been really good camino friends. Maybe they will think about an albergue......

Hope you have a good day into Aguilar, Mike. That’s where I started this July, so I will be interested to hear how you like the new mountain alternatives. Enjoy. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[MikeJS]

Olea to Aguilar de Campoo 25 kms
A short day for me. Tried to have a later start but woke up at 0645. Miguel had left the makings for breakfast so I decided to have a bun and marmalade with tea. However, it was green tea that smelt like boiled grass so I reverted to coffee. Delayed leaving until just before 0800 and got here at just before 1300. It was a fairly uneventful day with the exception of three large ‘hunting ‘ dogs just after leaving. Had to resort to throwing a large rock at the more aggressive of the 3. In fact there were a few enthusiastic dogs today and that’s not really been a problem on this camino so far. The way was simple and fairly uninspiring with the exception of a couple of wonderful roman bridges. It was mostly well marked although there were a few places where Ender’s app, Wikiloc track and the metal Camino Olvidado. However, I’m sure they would all end up here. Off to Cervera de Pisuerga tomorrow.

 

[peregrina2000]

Olea to Aguilar de Campoo 25 kms
A short day for me. Tried to have a later start but woke up at 0645. Miguel had left the makings for breakfast so I decided to have a bun and marmalade with tea. However, it was green tea that smelt like boiled grass so I reverted to coffee. Delayed leaving until just before 0800 and got here at just before 1300. It was a fairly uneventful day with the exception of three large ‘hunting ‘ dogs just after leaving. Had to resort to throwing a large rock at the more aggressive of the 3. In fact there were a few enthusiastic dogs today and that’s not really been a problem on this camino so far. The way was simple and fairly uninspiring with the exception of a couple of wonderful roman bridges. It was mostly well marked although there were a few places where Ender’s app, Wikiloc track and the metal Camino Olvidado. However, I’m sure they would all end up here. Off to Cervera de Pisuerga tomorrow.

Aguilar is not a bad place for a few hours’ visit. I would highly recommend taking your passport down to the casa del cura (across from the Colegiata on the main square) and getting the keys to the romanesque church just up on the hill below the castle. It’s only about a ten minute walk and it is quite the eerie feeling to open up an ancient building — even though the keys are modern and not those big clankers on a chain! The capital depicting the slaughter of the Innocents is really a gem. And sitting inside with the church lit up and in total silence is a pretty great experience.

How’s the temperature, Mike? Where are you staying in Aguilar? We wound up in the Valentín because we couldn’t make contact with any of the other places and I was itching to get going to the casa del cura. The convent hotel was full, or that would have been a splurge option!

 

[MikeJS]

Aguilar is not a bad place for a few hours’ visit. I would highly recommend taking your passport down to the casa del cura (across from the Colegiata on the main square) and getting the keys to the romanesque church just up on the hill below the castle. It’s only about a ten minute walk and it is quite the eerie feeling to open up an ancient building — even though the keys are modern and not those big clankers on a chain! The capital depicting the slaughter of the Innocents is really a gem. And sitting inside with the church lit up and in total silence is a pretty great experience.

How’s the temperature, Mike? Where are you staying in Aguilar? We wound up in the Valentín because we couldn’t make contact with any of the other places and I was itching to get going to the casa del cura. The convent hotel was full, or that would have been a splurge option!

Thanks for the info about the church, it sound fascinating, but it’s too late for me now. The weather has been on the cool side the last 2 days and i have kept my fleece on all day. That’s very unusual for me as I run on the high temperature side! I’m hoping it will warm up again for the mountain route. I’m staying on a room on Airbnb.

 

[MikeJS]

Aguilar de Campoo to Cervera de Pisuerga 30km
Had a good meal at Hotel Valentin last night which also seemed to have quite a few English guests. Best of all was seeing 2 otters playing in the river when I walked back to the room. It’s was a lovely stage today with a straight walk to the dam in the outskirts of Aguilar where I saw the first camino sign. It was another one of the rustic (that is rusty!) ones. Personally, I far prefer a simple yellow arrow which is also easier to see. It was a very varied walk to day with a few gentle hills, plenty of time along a river and a few particularly interesting sites such as the necropolis and the rock carved hermitage. As always, I have seen lots of fungi and a few fungi harvesters, but strangely they don’t seem interested in the ones we in the UK call parasol mushrooms. I have seen hundreds of them and they make excellent eating. Also saw my first fly fisherman today who was after trout. Always been surprised how few fishermen I see on the camino given how many trout I see! In fact all of the water seems underused- I’ve yet to see a boat, canoe or craft of any sort in the water. I am staying at the Albergue Turistico Rivera del Pisuerga Cervera which is excellent. For 12 euros I even get a private room. As I arrived quite early again (1300). I decided to have menu del dia for lunch today to avoid having to eat after 2100 tonight. I had a wonderful bean and octopus broth to start with and then chicken cooked in cider. Yogurt and local honey to finish and with water, wine and coffee it was 15 euros. Off to Guardo tomorrow.

 

[CdnDreamer]

Thank you for the good information and wonderful pictures. I will be following your journey daily. Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Would love to hear what route you take into Guardo. We got off the main road even though the arrows were crossed out, and it was fine. Much nicer walking but probably a bit longer. Any way you walk it, it’s a long day but not challenging. The Albergue is very nice in Guardo but if you’re going to take the detour to Caminayo, which is gorgeous, the Albergue is a ways from the start. Hope you get good weather, Mike!

Ps. I agree that the rusty signs are not so pretty. and like you say, hard to see sometimes.

Any other peregrinos out there?

 

[MikeJS]

Would love to hear what route you take into Guardo. We got off the main road even though the arrows were crossed out, and it was fine. Much nicer walking but probably a bit longer. Any way you walk it, it’s a long day but not challenging. The Albergue is very nice in Guardo but if you’re going to take the detour to Caminayo, which is gorgeous, the Albergue is a ways from the start. Hope you get good weather, Mike!

Ps. I agree that the rusty signs are not so pretty. and like you say, hard to see sometimes.

Any other peregrinos out there?

I followed the route in Enders app (most of the time!). I ignored one bit that took a circuitous route and followed a straight path I could see on google maps. I spent very little time on the road. Plan is still to do the mountain detour route. Having come all this way I would hate to miss it. Fingers crossed for good weather.

 

[MikeJS]

Cervera de Pisuerga to Guardo 40kms
It started out clear as I left at dawn and stayed sunny for about the first hour. However, as I climbed higher the mist dropped and it stayed dull for about the next 3 hours. Luckily, it cleared up and the rest of the day was mostly in sunshine. The first hour of the walk, as the path climbed higher,was a lovely stroll along a rural track. I met a couple of hunters on the way but was not sure what they were after. Once the main climb ended it was a delightful day walking through high tracks and pastures. Lots of cows, with their slightly off tune bells, and an amazing number of mouse holes! Cervera was a pretty little town, although very quite. However, there was a lot of interesting architecture. The route was sparsely marked for the first section today, but the final 20km or so was much better. Still a variety of routes marked so it still needs harmonising for clarity. I’ve included a photo of a bridge that I’m pleased was no longer in use. When entering one of the very small villages, I think it was the one just before Santibanez, I saw an old lady struggling up the hill with two bags in her hand at a walking stick. She was very bent over and about half way up placed one bag on the floor. I assume to walk back and collect later! I could hardly go strolling past, so I picked up the dropped bag and offered to take the other one to help her home. Her house mush have been about 700m away and she had gone to her plot to get today’s vegetables. Needless to say, it took a while to get to her house and she nattered all the way, despite me saying how little Spanish I had. However, once we got to her house she gave me a wonderful tomato and then insisted on taking me to the church. It was next to her house and she wanted to show me the very old stone with the pilgrim symbols on it. Well worth the detour as it looks like it may come from the days of the original pilgrims. Hope to go to Puente-Almuhey tomorrow via the ‘mountain route, so let’s hope the weather is OK.

 

[peregrina2000]

Fingers crossed for good weather. The route is so beautiful. We had cloudy skies for some of the part on the ridge, but even so the views are just glorious. Not sure if this heads up will help you, but we did get a bit confused going through the forest after Velilla. The forest is just gorgeous though! Beech and oak! When you come onto the site of an abandoned mine, we had a heck of a time finding the path. Stay up and go left and around the edge of the site.

There are about four people living in Caminayo. But they LOVE seeing peregrinos, and if you see anyone out and about, just ask and they will open up the social center for you. They are totally wonderful people. I think we should start the drumbeat that they should open an albergue there, because a lot more people would take the detour if they didn’t have to walk 40 km in one day. So totally worth it though. Fingers crossed for you, Mike. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[MikeJS]

Fingers crossed for good weather. The route is so beautiful. We had cloudy skies for some of the part on the ridge, but even so the views are just glorious. Not sure if this heads up will help you, but we did get a bit confused going through the forest after Velilla. The forest is just gorgeous though! Beech and oak! When you come onto the site of an abandoned mine, we had a heck of a time finding the path. Stay up and go left and around the edge of the site.

There are about four people living in Caminayo. But they LOVE seeing peregrinos, and if you see anyone out and about, just ask and they will open up the social center for you. They are totally wonderful people. I think we should start the drumbeat that they should open an albergue there, because a lot more people would take the detour if they didn’t have to walk 40 km in one day. So totally worth it though. Fingers crossed for you, Mike. Buen camino, Laurie

Laurie. Thank you for the info. Velilla is not shown on the route in Enders app! At the moment while looking ahead I am trying to find somewhere to stay in Cistierna. The Albergue Montana is closed and no response from Hostal Moderno I’m ok for Puente-Almuhey but needs somewhere for 27/9.

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie. Thank you for the info. Velilla is not shown on the route in Enders app! At the moment while looking ahead I am trying to find somewhere to stay in Cistierna. The Albergue Montana is closed and no response from Hostal Moderno I’m ok for Puente-Almuhey but needs somewhere for 27/9.

Mike, Velilla is the first town after Guardo, after you walk through some weird little residential groupings that was formerly worker housing at some nearby utility. The forest begins after that. Shown on the map from the app, which I have tried to paste in.

I have taken the liberty of writing a WhatsApp to the Moderno and asking if they have a single room for Friday the 27th. I’ll let you know what they say. And btw, I hope you are going to be in those wonderful apartments in Puente Almuhey. The owners are great. Excellent food in the restaurant if you get there in time for a menu del día.

You are filling me with longing for the Olvidado!

 

[peregrina2000]

And p.s. The municipal albergue is not bad at all, I think it was fairly clean. Just not getting a lot of TLC. In a pinch, though, you’d be fine there.

 

[MikeJS]

Mike, Velilla is the first town after Guardo, after you walk through some weird little residential groupings that was formerly worker housing at some nearby utility. The forest begins after that. Shown on the map from the app, which I have tried to paste in.

I have taken the liberty of writing a WhatsApp to the Moderno and asking if they have a single room for Friday the 27th. I’ll let you know what they say. And btw, I hope you are going to be in those wonderful apartments in Puente Almuhey. The owners are great. Excellent food in the restaurant if you get there in time for a menu del día.

You are filling me with longing for the Olvidado!

I have seen Velilla now! Could not see it properly on my phone. Thank you re WhatsApp message. I didn’t realise they were on it from their web site. I’m very new to WhatsApp!

 

[MikeJS]

And p.s. The municipal albergue is not bad at all, I think it was fairly clean. Just not getting a lot of TLC. In a pinch, though, you’d be fine there.

Didn’t notice any info about the municipal. I’ve also sent a message to the place mentioned in the CaminOlvidado app for route 12b called La Ercina as the Puente-Almuhey to Cistierna stage is a bit short for me!

 

[peregrina2000]

I have seen Velilla now! Could not see it properly on my phone. Thank you re WhatsApp message. I didn’t realise they were on it from their web site. I’m very new to WhatsApp!

Well, just let me know. I heard from Moderno and you have a reservation, But they just asked me to confirm, so not a problem either way. The menú del día there is fabulous, too!

I would be interested to hear how you jiggle things around if you stop at La Ercina, it’s always good to have alternative stages! Buen camino, Mike.

 

[peregrina2000]

I just remembered that Alun and I played around with going on to La Ercina, but our scheduling problem was that since we wanted to do the mountain alternative to Vegacervera, we were going to have to stop in Boñar anyway (if you didn’t want to do the mountain alternative, you could probably do La Ercina to La Robla in one day). So since I had already stayed twice in Cistierna and remembered the good food, we just decided to cut the day short and stay there. Buen camino!

 

[MikeJS]

Well it’s an absolutely beautiful day so I’m off on the mountain route!

 

[MikeJS]

Guardo to Puente-Almuhey via the High route 32km
A fantastic start to the day as when I left at dawn the sky was crystal clear. That made the route decision easy. Could not miss the treats of the high route (having walked it, it would be wrong to call it a mountain route) on such a beautiful day, so happy to walk 32km to PA instead of 16km. It was about 1.5km from Albergue Norte to pick up the trail and then a simple although uninspiring stroll to Velilla. I used the Camino app for this hike. After crossing the bridge it goes uphill for about the next 15km through oak and then pine forests. This part of the hike needs a lot of attention as the markings seem non existent and although I had the Olviado camino app track the gps accuracy was surprisingly poor. I would be extremely wary of trying this route without gps. In addition, Laurie’s advice about keeping high and left at the coal workings was invaluable. There are so many different tracks in this uphill section until you reach the coal workings it is extremely easy to take the wrong one - I know! After that the way becomes more obvious and on a clear day as shown by the photos the view is wonderful. Unusually, I had lunch on the hike today and had a picnic sat on a lovely bench just above Caminayo. Interestingly, Caminayo was more prosperous than I expected- there are a few new houses and some being built. Also I saw three people younger than 30! The way out of there is very well marked and it’s a lovely route down to Valderrueda. From there the route is again clearly marked but the last 3 or 4km take you alongside the highway when there is an excellent alternative called Calle Mina that can be easily seen on google maps! Staying at Hotel Rio Cea which is good and friendly. Stuck with a short day tomorrow to Cistierna of only 21km owing to accommodation limitations so will use the time to plan my San Salvador trip.
I want to add a separate comment about the markings on this route - they are poor. Given the huge map in the centre of town promoting this high way I expected the markings to be very good. However, the first I noticed was after the bridge in Velilla then did not see another one until at the top of the hill. Thereafter, until Caminayo I saw a few of the rusty ones but in strange places such as along a straight section with no turn off options or my favourite (see photo) which was on the edge of the track pointing straight int the wood. For such a route they really do need to be better and clearer.

 

[MikeJS]

Didn’t know there was a 10 file upload limit so here are the last 4 photos!

 

[Theatregal]

Cervera de Pisuerga to Guardo 40kms
When entering one of the very small villages, I think it was the one just before Santibanez, I saw an old lady struggling up the hill with two bags in her hand at a walking stick. She was very bent over and about half way up placed one bag on the floor. I assume to walk back and collect later! I could hardly go strolling past, so I picked up the dropped bag and offered to take the other one to help her home. Her house mush have been about 700m away and she had gone to her plot to get today’s vegetables. Needless to say, it took a while to get to her house and she nattered all the way, despite me saying how little Spanish I had. However, once we got to her house she gave me a wonderful tomato and then insisted on taking me to the church. It was next to her house and she wanted to show me the very old stone with the pilgrim symbols on it. Well worth the detour as it looks like it may come from the days of the original pilgrims.

I am enjoying reading your posts and seeing your photos @MikeJS ! My encounters with local people and the wonderful unexpected experiences they brought were a highlight of my recent walk on the Invierno. I'm feeling so drawn to the Olvidado! Thank you so much for your daily posts!

 

[MikeJS]

I am enjoying reading your posts and seeing your photos @MikeJS ! My encounters with local people and the wonderful unexpected experiences they brought were a highlight of my recent walk on the Invierno. I'm feeling so drawn to the Olvidado! Thank you so much for your daily posts!

There are many similarities between the 2. Especially, that few people walk them and the services can be limited. However, they are both wonderful.

 

[MikeJS]

Stayed in Hotel Rio Cea tonight. The barmaid that was working when I arrived just after 1400 is still here at 2230, and I assume will stay until they close much later. She serves at the bar, does the check ins for the hotel., cleans all of the place and serves dinner. I would give her a job anytime! When I went to order food tonight, she smiled as always at my Spanish and then explained that I could have a special meal for 15 euros. She said it included a drink and I clarified that ‘a drink’ meant a bottle of wine! It did! So for 15 euros I had a salad to start, then chips with peppers and what appeared to be a folded steak stuffed with a local cheese and onions. I didn’t have room for pud!

 

[MikeJS]

Puente-Almuhey to Cistierna 24kms
Had a lazy day today as it was a short hike. Got up after 0800, had a relaxing breakfast with a large cafe leche and toast. With an expected 4hr hike I left at 0930. However, it was slightly longer than advertised as I arrived just after 1400. Turns out it is actually 24kms. Not that the extra made a difference to me. As for this stage it is absolutely wonderful. In fact if I wanted to show someone the essence of a camino I would take them on this stage. It has everything - gentle stroll through pastures with the donging of cow bells, woods and forests. Good tracks, including a little bit of very quiet road, rural tracks, forest trails and the equivalent of goat trails! There are panoramic views, picturesque churches and a sanctuary as well as pretty lakes. In addition, there is no long bit at the end of the hike where you can see the destination in the distance. The first sighting of Cistierna is when it is only about 3 kms away. It’s flat at the start with a 4km uphill section about half way and if you are lucky like I was you will meet a goatherd with his 8 dogs and a local fungi hunter! The fungi hunter, despite my standard phrase saying I have little Spanish, spoke to me for about 5 minutes. He was extremely agreeable and clearly knew of the Camino Olviado and of its old name. He was also trying to explain about another camino that crossed this one close by that he call camino frankengena (my English phonetics) that I don’t think I have heard off. So for whatever reason don’t miss this stage. In fact I think it was even better than yesterday’s stage! Staying at Hostel Moderno today and off the Bonar tomorrow.

 

[CdnDreamer]

I was looking at the map of Caminos de Santiago on my wall here at work, and I see the Ruta Vadiniense comes down from the Norte through Cistierna and south to the Frances just before Leon. Perhaps that was the route the fungi hunter was telling you about. I am really enjoying hearing about your camino. I don't know how people have the time and energy to write about the camino each day after walking, but I love following along from my office. Thank you for keeping us updated.

 

[peregrina2000]

I was looking at the map of Caminos de Santiago on my wall here at work, and I see the Ruta Vadiniense comes down from the Norte through Cistierna and south to the Frances just before Leon. Perhaps that was the route the fungi hunter was telling you about. I am really enjoying hearing about your camino. I don't know how people have the time and energy to write about the camino each day after walking, but I love following along from my office. Thank you for keeping us updated.

Yes, I'm sure he was referring to the Vadiniense, which starts near San Vicente de la Barquera and goes to Mansilla de las Mulas right before León. Lots of asphalt on that camino, but it does have some spectacular sections through the Picos de Europa around Fuente De.

 

[MikeJS]

I think both peregrina2000 and cdndreamer are correct about the camino name!

 

[MikeJS]

Cistierna to Bonar 31km
Last night in the Moderno was excellent. A lovely meal and because I said I was leaving early and didn’t want breakfast she insisted in giving me some fruit and orange juice to take with me. Cloudy to start with but it soon brightened up to be another lovely sunny day. The walk was simple although there was a shortage of camino markers in some places and some had simply fallen over. The walk was mostly on rural tracks and it was a lovely day. However, compared to the previous 2 magnificent days it seemed a little lacklustre. Don’t misunderstand me, it was a wonderful walk, just not memorable. Now staying in Hostal Nisi which is a fine place. Really big and as always I seem to get a room on the
top (3rd) floor! Decided to have lunch today (it’s now 1600!) as I expect getting a meal at a sensible time on Saturday night is unlikely! Off the Vegacervera tomorrow- only about 27km. However, being a Sunday I expect everywhere to be closed.

 

[MikeJS]

Bonar to Vegacervera 28km
The weather is getting cooler in the morning and there was a real chill in the air. However, it was a clear sky and looked to be a great day. Straight forward way out of Bonar along the river then you turn right and walk uphill for the next 15km! The way was extremely well marked and I could follow the yellow arrows all the way. Amazingly, when I got to La Mata de la Berbula at just after 0930 there was a bar and it was open, on a Sunday!! Stopped for a coffee and some cake and headed out again. Really glad I stopped there because the next 4 kms are up some extremely tough slopes. Not that that matters as the view was stupendous. There are a number of points when you think you are at the top, but you not! In fact once you find yourself in some high pastures with the ubiquitous cows, goats and horses then you are past the top. Wikiloc had it at 1680m.
After Correcillas it’s a long gradual way into Vegacervera that is primarily on tarmac. However, it’s a very quiet road and it winds through oaks along side the river. This was another fantastic day that truly deserves the label - awesome (in the English usage). The track is challenging in places but the views are well worth the effort. To find the remains of a roman road up that high was a real treat. I’m staying in a place called El Chalten, which is a group of chalets with bunk beds. Only me in one chalet but a few of the others are occupied by a Spanish group doing some outdoor adventure activities. Tomorrow I head for Buiza and that’s about 16km which is where I leave the Camino Olvidado and join the Camino San Salvador heading for Oviedo. I plan to stop at Poladura which is 9kms further on.

 

[MikeJS]

A few more photos.

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh the memories. This is such a glorious stage that even those last kms on the side of the empty road do not diminish the glow. Hope you can find some Coladilla yoghurt. It’d be the icing on the cake!

 

[CdnDreamer]

Lovely pictures! I am really enjoying reading about your trip. You mention that tomorrow you will walk 9 km of the Salvador from Buiza. I got out my diary from my Salvador trip and not to put you off, but I wrote that it was like climbing the CN tower for 2 hours. But the views were amazing. Then I mention the fabulous dinner we had in Poladura, how much fun the group of pilgrims were that night and that I had had an absolutely perfect day and I couldn't be any happier. I'm sure you will find the hills much easier than I did since you have been doing lots of climbing on the Olvidado. Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Tomorrow Mike will be walking through the lovely beech forest near Ciñera. But he’ll have to endure a hellish descent first. I’ll be eager to hear if the leaves have turned, since I just saw a link to this article describing this beech forest as one of the ten best in Spain. I was there in summer, and it was green, cool, and lush. In fall colors, I imagine it would be really awesome!

Los 10 mejores hayedos para perderse este otoño

Los 10 mejores hayedos para perderse este otoño

www.lasexta.com

 

[MikeJS]

Oh the memories. This is such a glorious stage that even those last kms on the side of the empty road do not diminish the glow. Hope you can find some Coladilla yoghurt. It’d be the icing on the cake!

Sunday today so nothing open. I’ll keep my eyes peeled tomorrow.

Lovely pictures! I am really enjoying reading about your trip. You mention that tomorrow you will walk 9 km of the Salvador from Buiza. I got out my diary from my Salvador trip and not to put you off, but I wrote that it was like climbing the CN tower for 2 hours. But the views were amazing. Then I mention the fabulous dinner we had in Poladura, how much fun the group of pilgrims were that night and that I had had an absolutely perfect day and I couldn't be any happier. I'm sure you will find the hills much easier than I did since you have been doing lots of climbing on the Olvidado. Buen Camino!

Thank you. I’m hoping the

Tomorrow Mike will be walking through the lovely beech forest near Ciñera. But he’ll have to endure a hellish descent first. I’ll be eager to hear if the leaves have turned, since I just saw a link to this article describing this beech forest as one of the ten best in Spain. I was there in summer, and it was green, cool, and lush. In fall colors, I imagine it would be really awesome!

Los 10 mejores hayedos para perderse este otoño

Los 10 mejores hayedos para perderse este otoño

www.lasexta.com

Unfortunately, the leaves are still green!

 

[MikeJS]

Vegacervera to Poladura Via Buiza 27km
I had lunch in the Restaurant El Molino in Vegacervera and a large roll in the evening and the owner was very helpful and friendly. It was a fine start again this morning with a steady hike up to Coladilla, which evidently is famous for it sheep’s yogurt. Unfortunately, I’ve not been able to buy any yet. The camino has been diverted off of the road from here and now it’s a lovely stroll through high pastures. The last stretch of this section into Valle de Vegacervera follows a very old path between dry stone walls. Unfortunately, many of the rocks have fallen off of the top of the walls onto the path that makes walking quite difficult. However, you can simply use the fields to the left for most of the way. The way continues along a very quiet road into Ciñera and then heads off road. This section is another spectacular route and has a part that is very steep heading down to a narrow way through a gorge. Quite vertiginous and it would be dangerous in the wet. Thereafter, it’s another quiet stroll to Buiza. At Buiza I had expected some sort of marker to show the junction of the Camino Olvidado and the San Salvador but I saw nothing. The way was well marked again and from here I’ll continue onto Poladura on the Salvador. I’ll start a new thread for that in the Salvador section.

 

[Fred Gaudet]

Hi Mike - we've just walked the Olvidado from Bilbao to La Robla then the San Salvador and have arrived in Oviedo about an hour ago. If you have any questions about Olvidado, please feel free to ask. Carry 2 days of food at all times and you should be fine It's a fabulous camino. We met lovely local people, but no other pilgrims. Enjoy!

Elena, you mention to carry 2 days of food at all times. Is that really necessary, or just a good idea. I had planned to walk the Olvidado this Sept-Oct, but may have to wait until 2021. Thanks

 

[peregrina2000]

Elena, you mention to carry 2 days of food at all times. Is that really necessary, or just a good idea. I had planned to walk the Olvidado this Sept-Oct, but may have to wait until 2021. Thanks

I am not Elena, but I have walked this route twice and never carried food for two days. There may be an albergue or two (like Buiza, if you opt to stay there rather than Pola de Gordón, or Fasgar where the only option is a nice restaurant) where no food is available in town. I usually carry water, one or two little yoghurts, maybe a handful of nuts and raisins, and a piece or two of fruit. I don’t like to eat a big meal in the middle of a stage, so I always have something to tide me over, but I never had a problem getting a meal after walking.

It may be that when the camino reopens, some of the little towns, like Vegarienza or Fasgar, will lose their restaurants, but you will most likely be able to get this information from the people in the towns before.

It’s a beautiful camino @Fred Gaudet, and if you are flush with time, a perfect combination would be to detour down to Ponferrada at the end and continue on the Invierno into Santiago. That combination, IMO, is absolutely perfect. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Fred Gaudet]

I am not Elena, but I have walked this route twice and never carried food for two days. There may be an albergue or two (like Buiza, if you opt to stay there rather than Pola de Gordón, or Fasgar where the only option is a nice restaurant) where no food is available in town. I usually carry water, one or two little yoghurts, maybe a handful of nuts and raisins, and a piece or two of fruit. I don’t like to eat a big meal in the middle of a stage, so I always have something to tide me over, but I never had a problem getting a meal after walking.

It may be that when the camino reopens, some of the little towns, like Vegarienza or Fasgar, will lose their restaurants, but you will most likely be able to get this information from the people in the towns before.

It’s a beautiful camino @Fred Gaudet, and if you are flush with time, a perfect combination would be to detour down to Ponferrada at the end and continue on the Invierno into Santiago. That combination, IMO, is absolutely perfect. Buen camino, Laurie

Thanks, Laurie. I do plan to swing down to Ponferrada and use the Invierno to Santiago.
Fred

 

[Deleted member 67185]

I am not Elena, but I have walked this route twice and never carried food for two days. There may be an albergue or two (like Buiza, if you opt to stay there rather than Pola de Gordón, or Fasgar where the only option is a nice restaurant) where no food is available in town. I usually carry water, one or two little yoghurts, maybe a handful of nuts and raisins, and a piece or two of fruit. I don’t like to eat a big meal in the middle of a stage, so I always have something to tide me over, but I never had a problem getting a meal after walking.

It may be that when the camino reopens, some of the little towns, like Vegarienza or Fasgar, will lose their restaurants, but you will most likely be able to get this information from the people in the towns before.

It’s a beautiful camino @Fred Gaudet, and if you are flush with time, a perfect combination would be to detour down to Ponferrada at the end and continue on the Invierno into Santiago. That combination, IMO, is absolutely perfect. Buen camino, Laurie

How timely. .

I just finished watching a YouTube playlist of a wife-husband pair, doing a bicycling pilgrimage on Camino Olvidado to Santiago. Each video covers one stage. The video is great quality, and gives a good look at the Camino route. They show quite a few interesting churches and chapels along the way.

They call their video channel and video production business venture 'De Rutas y Sendas'

They have a lot of the other Camino routes on their channel. Both Camino de Santiago routes, as well as others like the Lebaniego. Some of the Caminos they walk, others the bicycle.

 

[peregrina2000]

How timely. .

I just finished watching a YouTube playlist of a wife-husband pair, doing a bicycling pilgrimage on Camino Olvidado to Santiago. Each video covers one stage. The video is great quality, and gives a good look at the Camino route. They show quite a few interesting churches and chapels along the way.

They call their video channel and video production business venture 'De Rutas y Sendas'

They have a lot of the other Camino routes on their channel. Both Camino de Santiago routes, as well as others like the Lebaniego. Some of the Caminos they walk, others the bicycle.

I wanted to see if the video took the new mountain alternatives, because the rocky descent on the stage from Boñar would have been impossible for a bike. But they stuck with the old route.

For anyone who is contemplating the Olvidado and doesn’t want to tackle the mountain alternatives, you should watch these videos (Boñar to La Robla and La Robla to Magdalena is Video 7). I was happy to see that the the “old” route out of Boñar, which used to be almost completely along the side of the road, now has a lot of off-road stretches. So there have been many improvements on the Olvidado — new mountain alternatives, and improved non-mountain alternatives! Thanks for posting this.

 

[Elena peregrina]

Elena, you mention to carry 2 days of food at all times. Is that really necessary, or just a good idea. I had planned to walk the Olvidado this Sept-Oct, but may have to wait until 2021. Thanks

Hi Fred - Just a good idea I think. We walked in September last year and found that there weren’t many places open - particularly in the evenings. We stayed in lots of quiet villages. It’s a beautiful route- loved it. But be prepared not to meet other pilgrims. I have lots of notes etc - so let me know if you need any info.

 

[Fred Gaudet]

Hi Fred - Just a good idea I think. We walked in September last year and found that there weren’t many places open - particularly in the evenings. We stayed in lots of quiet villages. It’s a beautiful route- loved it. But be prepared not to meet other pilgrims. I have lots of notes etc - so let me know if you need any info.

Elena, if you could send me your notes, that would be great. I'm still planning on doing the Olvidado, but not sure what year. The following is an email address:
Thanks, Fred

Note from the mods: I have removed Fred’s personal email address. For purposes of preventing spamming problems and preserving privacy, personal email addresses should only be sent via PM. I have sent a PM to both so that they can communicate.