Starting on the Salvador June 1 - last minute questions

[trecile]

I'll be starting on the Salvador on Saturday. My questions mainly revolve around which stages I need to make sure and carry food and additional water. I've been walking the Frances from SJPDP, and I'm not accustomed to carrying much more than a liter of water, an orange and a chocolate bar. I understand that I will need to carry additional food and water on some stages, and that I'll need to phone ahead for meals in some stops? Do I also need to contact the albergues ahead of time?
Thanks

 

[Purky]

I called ahead to the albergues of Poladura de la Tercia and Bendueños, for a bed and a meal. The rest I left to chance, including food, and it worked out fine. About carrying additional food, I didn't (apart from some snacks). Having said that, I've been known to skip meals without trouble, so your mileage may vary.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Trecile, so excited for you!

I agree with Purky. If you are going to sleep in Poladura, you have to decide between albergue and Posada del Embrujo http://www.posadaelembrujo.es/ You can also order a meal there if you sleep in the albergue, there is nothing there. If you want to sleep in Bendueños, I think it's best to alert Sandra. The rest is fine.

It´s true that it's nothing like the Francés in terms of facilities, but there are not any really long stages without at least some services. Poladura to the Puerto de Pajares, where there are two bars, can´t be more than 12 or 13 km. I always carry a small pack of nuts, some fruit, and a yoghurt or two, because I cannot eat a full meal while walking even if there were lots of options. I carry two liters of water but haven´t ever gotten close to being empty. Hope the weather gods smile on you, because the part from Buiza to Pajares is camino beauty at its unsurpassable zenith.

I will tell Ender to expect a forum member on Saturday in case he can pass by. He went to the albergue in La Robla to see @Nuala and she said he wound up promoting the Olvidado more than anything else. Do you plan to walk to La Robla on Saturday?

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[trecile]

Hi, Trecile, so excited for you!

I agree with Purky. If you are going to sleep in Poladura, you have to decide between albergue and Posada del Embrujo http://www.posadaelembrujo.es/ You can also order a meal there if you sleep in the albergue, there is nothing there. If you want to sleep in Bendueños, I think it's best to alert Sandra. The rest is fine.

It´s true that it's nothing like the Francés in terms of facilities, but there are not any really long stages without at least some services. Poladura to the Puerto de Pajares, where there are two bars, can´t be more than 12 or 13 km. I always carry a small pack of nuts, some fruit, and a yoghurt or two, because I cannot eat a full meal while walking even if there were lots of options. I carry two liters of water but haven´t ever gotten close to being empty. Hope the weather gods smile on you, because the part from Buiza to Pajares is camino beauty at its unsurpassable zenith.

I will tell Ender to expect a forum member on Saturday in case he can pass by. He went to the albergue in La Robla to see @Nuala and she said he wound up promoting the Olvidado more than anything else. Do you plan to walk to La Robla on Saturday?

Buen camino, Laurie

Yes, I plan to walk to La Robla on Saturday. I'm doing a very short stage from Puente Villarente into León tomorrow, so I should be well rested for the start of the Salvador.

 

[Former member 49149]

I'll be starting on the Salvador on Saturday. My questions mainly revolve around which stages I need to make sure and carry food and additional water. I've been walking the Frances from SJPDP, and I'm not accustomed to carrying much more than a liter of water, an orange and a chocolate bar. I understand that I will need to carry additional food and water on some stages, and that I'll need to phone ahead for meals in some stops? Do I also need to contact the albergues ahead of time?
Thanks

About 5km more or less from La Robla, you will come to the Ermita de Buen Suceso. Across the road there is a cafe stop of the same name. Tostadas and coffee... or whatever, but very welcome, and a chance to sit and air the feet..

 

[peregrina2000]

About 5km more or less from La Robla, you will come to the Ermita de Buen Suceso. Across the road there is a cafe stop of the same name. Tostadas and coffee... or whatever, but very welcome, and a chance to sit and air the feet..

That café is famous for its tortillas, all sorts of tortillas. VERY yummy. Ender´s wife used to work there, but has retired.

 

[Former member 49149]

I have just remembered that at one point on day one, you might add an hour to your journey by taking a left instead of going straight on. It is soon after a village where there is a trough with water pouring out of three spouts - but non drinkable. I can’t say what the alternative is like. We took the left and walked in a thunderstorm right next to a big electric power station setup.
I found this entry just now, and it confirms that we gave ourselves trouble by going left, just beyond Cascantes.

 

[Dsavid Keyte]

Great time of year to do the San Salvador

 

[Elle Bieling]

I would advise to always carry water, at least a liter. Yet, even on the mountain route detouring Pajares and heading to San Miguel there are fountains in the fields! Most of the towns also have fountains, which was a surprise! We drank from them all, I think, with no adverse consequences!

 

[Elizabeth2018]

After La Pola de Gordon, there is really no where to buy food until much further on. Buiza has no place to buy food but there is a kitchen in the albergue where you can cook if you bring food. Also if you are stopping in Poladura de la Tercia it is critical to call ahead a day in advance to the Posada to order a meal or you will be reduced to twinkies and such in a vending machine for dinner. They need to be able to go and buy supplies. We were also advised by the owner of the pub and B&B in Pajares to tell folks in the Poladura albergue to call ahead to Pajares as well -- the albergue or the pub in order to let them know you were coming. . Same for Buenduenos. Getting food and water is pretty straightforward once you hit Campomanes. We did manage to get cake and coffee in the bar at the old Parador beside the highway at the Asturias border between Poladura and Pajares however.

 

[peregrina2000]

After La Pola de Gordon, there is really no where to buy food until much further on. Buiza has no place to buy food but there is a kitchen in the albergue where you can cook if you bring food. Also if you are stopping in Poladura de la Tercia it is critical to call ahead a day in advance to the Posada to order a meal or you will be reduced to twinkies and such in a vending machine for dinner. They need to be able to go and buy supplies. We were also advised by the owner of the pub and B&B in Pajares to tell folks in the Poladura albergue to call ahead to Pajares as well -- the albergue or the pub in order to let them know you were coming. . Same for Buenduenos. Getting food and water is pretty straightforward once you hit Campomanes. We did manage to get cake and coffee in the bar at the old Parador beside the highway at the Asturias border between Poladura and Pajares however.

That’s a really good point. My comment about no long stretches without services was said in the context of whether you will find a bar or restaurant. But for grocery stores, you have nothing from Pola de Gordón till Campomanes.

Buen camino, I am sorry to tell the current Salvador peregrinos that Ender is off walking the Norte and won’t be visiting the albergue in La Robla or Poladura for a while.

 

[KinkyOne]

After La Pola de Gordon, there is really no where to buy food until much further on. ...

Not entirely true. There is a petrol station 2 or 3km (might be a bit more, too lazy to check )after La Pola where you can stock up before Buiza. But it doesn't really change the situation much. It only spare you carrying more in your backpack for that couple of kilometers.

 

[Elizabeth2018]

Not entirely true. There is a petrol station 2 or 3km (might be a bit more, too lazy to check )after La Pola where you can stock up before Buiza. But it doesn't really change the situation much. It only spare you carrying more in your backpack for that couple of kilometers.

Interesting! I don’t remember seeing that last year. But then the countryside is so gorgeous I suspect we were busy paying attention to other things.

 

[trecile]

That café is famous for its tortillas, all sorts of tortillas. VERY yummy.

Stopped for breakfast there this morning. I had a huge slice of tortilla con pimientos, and bought a bocadillo de tortilla con chorizo, which was also huge to take for lunch. It was so big that I only ate half, and will have the rest for breakfast tomorrow.

I'll be in Pajares tomorrow. Do you recommend Bendueños or Campomanes for the following day?

 

[KinkyOne]

Stopped for breakfast there this morning. I had a huge slice of tortilla con pimientos, and bought a bocadillo de tortilla con chorizo, which was also huge to take for lunch. It was so big that I only ate half, and will have the rest for breakfast tomorrow.

I'll be in Pajares tomorrow. Do you recommend Bendueños or Campomanes for the following day?

The distance to both of them are almost equal and for me Benduenos is a not to miss albergue. Just let Sandra knows you are coming. She cooks yummy vegetarian (which I'm not) dinner!
Although it's off Camino you don't need to stock up on anything because she has everything one would need in her kitchen/fridge. You just take it and leave donation. Albergue and dinner are set prices.

 

[peregrina2000]

Stopped for breakfast there this morning. I had a huge slice of tortilla con pimientos, and bought a bocadillo de tortilla con chorizo, which was also huge to take for lunch. It was so big that I only ate half, and will have the rest for breakfast tomorrow.

I'll be in Pajares tomorrow. Do you recommend Bendueños or Campomanes for the following day?

Pajares to Bendueños is a short day, but a stop in Bendueños is a highlight. Campomanes is, as kinky says, about the same distance — both are less than two km from Herías. https://www.gronze.com/etapa/pajares/pola-lena The turnoff for Bendueños is very well marked in Herías (I believe I met the last residents a few years ago and they were not there when I went through last, but it a beautiful little place with lots of renovated closed-up houses). To get to Campomanes from Bendueños, you don’t have to backtrack to Herías the next day, you will see a turn-off down through a woods. I haven’t taken that route because I wasn’t sure, but others have confirmed that it is a perfectly fine way to get to Campomanes. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/pajares-to-buendueños-update.55725/#post-624679

How does the weather look for the mountains? Are you in Poladura or Buiza?

 

[trecile]

How does the weather look for the mountains? Are you in Poladura or Buiza

I'm in Poladura. The weather looks good for tomorrow 75°F and partly cloudy for the walk to Pajares. But 57° and a high chance of rain on Tuesday. How is the walk from Pajares to Bendueños?
I've already emailed the albergue in Bendueños for a bed on Tuesday.

 

[NualaOC]

Stopped for breakfast there this morning. I had a huge slice of tortilla con pimientos, and bought a bocadillo de tortilla con chorizo, which was also huge to take for lunch. It was so big that I only ate half, and will have the rest for breakfast tomorrow.

I'll be in Pajares tomorrow. Do you recommend Bendueños or Campomanes for the following day?

Hi @trecile, most of the people we walked with last week stayed in Bendueños and loved it. We didn't, because we were walking from Poladura and hadn't decided whether to stop in Pajares or go further. Sandra has 8 beds in Bendueños and (I think) you have to phone her the night before. We didn't want to book when there was a chance that we might cancel - and in any event, we knew that about 6 beds were already taken.

There are a few private options in Campomanes. 5 of us stayed in Hospedaje Senda del Huerna, which was OK. If it's a simple toss up between Campomanes and Bendueños, I'd suggest that Bendueños is probably the better option.

Incidentally, Poladura to Bendueños/Campomanes is a long day, but very doable in good weather. It worked well for us as forecast wasn't good for the next day. We were delighted to do those mountain stages on a dry and sunny day.

And finally - make sure you check for ticks after the walk to Bendueños/Campomanes. Damian got a couple, probably in the long grass. I wore running tights and thankfully didn't get any.

Happy walking - tomorrow's walk is glorious!

 

[NualaOC]

I think we posted at the same time - hopefully I've answered your question about walking from Poladura to Bendueños! It's a long and tiring day, but very doable. When we saw the rain and cloud on the mountains the next day, we were really happy with our decision. I'd hate to have missed the wonderful 360 degree views.

Edit - Sorry, I misunderstood your question. The walk from Pajares has a lot of ups and downs, but not the same altitude as the previous stage. There's a variety of terrain - forest, meadows, long grass, stony paths, a bit of road etc. Some of it is a bit slippy and there are a few fallen trees. I think there are road alternatives at some points if you need them.

 

[trecile]

Incidentally, Poladura to Bendueños/Campomanes is a long day, but very doable in good weather.

I'm planning to split that into two days. Poladura to Pajares then Pajares to Bendueños. I have plenty of time.

 

[trecile]

Incidentally, Poladura to Bendueños/Campomanes is a long day, but very doable in good weather. It worked well for us as forecast wasn't good for the next day. We were delighted to do those mountain stages on a dry and sunny day.

Hmm, you're making me reconsider splitting it between two days. Tomorrow is supposed to be dry with clouds and not too hot, but the next day is supposed to be rainy. Maybe best to do it in one day??

 

[NualaOC]

I'm planning to split that into two days. Poladura to Pasajes then Pasajes to Bendueños. I have plenty of time.

Good decision - it will be really nice to savour both days. Poladura to Pajares is probably the more beautiful of the two, so good that you'll have nice weather for it. Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm in Poladura. The weather looks good for tomorrow 75°F and partly cloudy for the walk to Pajares. But 57° and a high chance of rain on Tuesday. How is the walk from Pajares to Bendueños?
I've already emailed the albergue in Bendueños for a bed on Tuesday.

Hope not to add too much confusion to the information overload!

Pajares to Bendueños is a pretty walk, not mountains though. First a descent to San Miguel. Then road walking till you hit Puente Fierro, at which point you scamper up a field and then start a lovely walk through forest, with occasional views over mountains on your right. Then down to Herías and then up a km or two to Bendueños.

One more thing. IF you decide to walk Poladura to Bendueños, it is 30 km, but you will have a chance to cut off a few kms. After the hard descent from the Puerto of Pajares, there is a turn-off for those who are not going to stop in the village of Pajares (which is where the albergue is), and that takes you directly to San Miguel. You avoid a few kms. See p. 35 of Ender’s guide. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...no-del-salvador-guide-in-english.590/download

If I were you, I would make the decision depending on how you feel when you get to that split — San Miguel to the left, the village of Pajares to the right.

Buen camino, @trecile, Laurie

 

[NualaOC]

Hmm, you're making me reconsider splitting it between two days. Tomorrow is supposed to be dry with clouds and not too hot, but the next day is supposed to be rainy. Maybe best to do it in one day??

Simultaneous postings again!

To put things in context - our original plan was also to do this in two days. Ender convinced us to keep an open mind and see how we felt when we were close to Pajares. If we felt strong, he encouraged us to follow the signs to San Miguel (not Pajares) and keep walking. That's what we did - and we had no regrets.


However, there were two disadvantages that you might want to consider. Firstly, it meant that we couldn't stay in Bendueños (not a big deal as 5 of us had a fun night in Campomanes). And secondly, we might have enjoyed the final 10kms a bit more if we hadn't been so tired. I can't describe how happy we were to finally arrive in Campomanes and see our (faster!) friends having a beer!



On the plus side, the walk to Mieres the next day felt super-easy and it was then really nice to walk a short day from Mieries to Oviedo.

No bad options on the Salvador - it's a wonderful walk.

I hope this makes sense - we got home last night and my brain isn't quite working yet

 

[peregrina2000]

And just to make it more complicated, no one has mentioned the absolutely gorgeous little pre-romanesque church, Santa Cristina de Lena. A few kms beyond Campomanes. There are times posted on the door and a telephone number, but I have been reassured many times that it is fine to call at any decent hour and if the señora is home (she lives down the hill a short distance), she will come and open the church for you. It is also a great place for a rest or picnic, one of the most peaceful spots on any camino.

On my last Salvador, I slept in Bendueños. I can´t remember if we called the señora the night before, or if I just called in the morning, but I know she came up to open for me even though I was there early. I tried to drag out my arrival by having a good long coffee in Campomanes. And from there the walk to Mieres was fine.

Totally agree with @Nuala, no bad options here!

 

[trecile]

If I were you, I would make the decision depending on how you feel when you get to that split — San Miguel to the left, the village of Pajares to the right.

Thanks @peregrina2000 and @NualaOC. Seeing how I feel when I get to that split and also rechecking the weather forecast is probably a good plan. If I do decide to do the longer distance I can call Sandra at Bendueños and tell her my change of plans

 

[Former member 49149]

All the best, whatever you decide. We saw a foal being born in a field just after Herias, the morning after our lovely stay in Bendueños.

 

[trecile]

I ended up walking from Poladura to Campomanes in one long day. All those ups and downs, combines with the overgrown trail, rocky terrain and steep descents made it very slow going, but the weather was very good for walking. Not too warm and partly cloudy. I was happy not to have rain on this stage.
I was walking with Alberto, a Spanish guy, and when we stopped for breakfast at Puerto Pajares at around 10:30 I decided that with the weather conditions that it was doable to continue to Campomanes. I knew that after such a long day that I'd like a private room, so I booked at Hospedaje Senda del Huerna, which at only 22€ was quite a good price, especially since the use of the washer and dryer was included.
When we got to the split for San Miguel I went left, and Alberto continued on to Pajares. I actually enjoyed walking on my own again, and at first the path was very nice. At one point I missed an arrow and was saved from a wrong turn by a local.
The trail, though overgrown went through some beautiful areas, though I did get tired of the constant uphill, especially when I reached the highway and saw a 5 km to Campomanes sign, but realized that the Camino was up and up and up a narrow path, and I calculated the distance on the trail to be about 3 km longer than the highway down below.
I estimate that it took me at least 2 hours longer than it would have on easier terrain.
Today's walk to Mieres was a relaxing stroll by comparison.

 

[Elle Bieling]

Oh my, I remember that long day well! We left at sunrise and did not arrive until 5:30 pm. Sounds like the going was as overgrown as when we passed through last fall. I also recall checking out the road as we climbed out of San Miguel, wondering if the road was shorter! However, I had to trust the natives that the high shelf trail was for the best. I used my poles to whack the overgrowth out of the way, more than I used them for planting! Ha ha. Here is my day four, if you want to re-live the experience, through my eyes. While i called it "day four" it was actually day three and four, combined, just like you did. We also stayed in the Hospedaje Senda del Huerna. The price was great and the proprietor very accommodating.

I'm glad you still have your mojo, as the last day, "our day six" is more strenuous, albeit shorter than the day to Mieres. Have a cider for me!

 

[trecile]

Oh my, I remember that long day well! We left at sunrise and did not arrive until 5:30 pm. Sounds like the going was as overgrown as when we passed through last fall. I also recall checking out the road as we climbed out of San Miguel, wondering if the road was shorter! However, I had to trust the natives that the high shelf trail was for the best. I used my poles to whack the overgrowth out of the way, more than I used them for planting! Ha ha. Here is my day four, if you want to re-live the experience, through my eyes. While i called it "day four" it was actually day three and four, combined, just like you did. We also stayed in the Hospedaje Senda del Huerna. The price was great and the proprietor very accommodating.

I'm glad you still have your mojo, as the last day, "our day six" is more strenuous, albeit shorter than the day to Mieres. Have a cider for me!

I've been referring to your excellent website as I go, so I knew that I was in for a long day! I left just before 7:00 and got to Campomanes around 5:15. My longest day of walking on any Camino! It felt like 40+ km rather than 30.

 

[Elle Bieling]

I've been referring to your excellent website as I go, so I knew that I was in for a long day! I left just before 7:00 and got to Campomanes around 5:15. My longest day of walking on any Camino! It felt like 40+ km rather than 30.

Since we walked in September, daybreak was 0800, so we did similar hours. Yes, it was my most grueling day yet, and as you know my left knee did not like it at all. And I am a Colorado gal. It still did me in! Glad you made it in one piece!

 

[trecile]

Since we walked in September, daybreak was 0800, so we did similar hours. Yes, it was my most grueling day yet, and as you know my left knee did not like it at all. And I am a Colorado gal. It still did me in! Glad you made it in one piece!

I started having trouble, especially downhill, with my left knee while I was on the Camino Frances ( I started my journey this year in SJPDP) But it was the kind of pain that got better as I warmed up, and has gradually improved daily. Before I left León I bought a knee compression sleeve, and wore it for the first time yesterday. On all but the steepest downhill sections I had no pain. I can't imagine how much longer it would have taken with a painful knee!

 

[Elle Bieling]

I started having trouble, especially downhill, with my left knee while I was on the Camino Frances ( I started my journey this year in SJPDP) But it was the kind of pain that got better as I warmed up, and has gradually improved daily. Before I left León I bought a knee compression sleeve, and wore it for the first time yesterday. On all but the steepest downhill sections I had no pain. I can't imagine how much longer it would have taken with a painful knee!

Yes, I feel it did take longer, because of my knee. I had to pick it up in a sort of march on the downhill, to keep it from hurting. Even with the sleeve. Next Camino I am taping my knee!