Starting from Valencia on 27 May 2014 - anyone else??

filly · Apr 19, 2014

I had a wonderful Via de la Plata last year joining up with a great group of French speakers. I would love the chance to get going this year on a quieter route with other/s. Anyone planning on starting on or after May 27 as I could wait a day or two. The aim is Zamora. I am a fit 62, quiet and reflective man; with good energy levels, walking from 25 to 50 kms per day. London and Lewes (East Sussex) based,a French and German speaker. I have the excellent guide and maps in English from theValencia Association. Return flighs from Madrid on 26 June and Santiago on 28 June. I would also be prepared to start out a little earlier...

peregrina2000 · Apr 19, 2014

Buen Camino, filly.

I walked the Levante last year, starting alone like you. On day 4, I magically met up with two French men, we walked all the way into Santiago together weeks later. I was incredibly fortunate to have met them, and I hope you have the same luck. As you probably know, the English guide is an older version than the new (2013) Spanish guide, but apparently they send you the new maps, so you can see the places where the route has changed.

People all along the route told us the numbers are rising rapidly, so I hope you will find some companionship. It's a camino of huge skies, lots of castles, and a lot of very nice small cities and towns for afternoon exploring. Buen camino, Laurie

LTfit · Apr 19, 2014

Hi Fiffy,
I wish you well and hope that you will be as lucky as Laurie.
I will arrive in Valencia when you are in Madrid.
Cheers,
Lee

peregrina2000 · May 26, 2014

filly said:
I had a wonderful Via de la Plata last year joining up with a great group of French speakers. I would love the chance to get going this year on a quieter route with other/s. Anyone planning on starting on or after May 27 as I could wait a day or two. The aim is Zamora. I am a fit 62, quiet and reflective man; with good energy levels, walking from 25 to 50 kms per day. London and Lewes (East Sussex) based,a French and German speaker. I have the excellent guide and maps in English from theValencia Association. Return flighs from Madrid on 26 June and Santiago on 28 June. I would also be prepared to start out a little earlier...

Buen camino, filly! Hope you can keep in touch every now and then. I bet you will meet some pilgrims either in Valencia or soon after. Laurie

filly · May 26, 2014

Thanks as ever dear Peregrina 2000 for your support. Your schedule is packed. Good news too is that I managed to get a reservation at the youth hostel in Toledo - one UK tip is to get a Scottish Hostelling card as it is much cheaper and invaluable in establishing your credentials... The hostel has a superb location, quiet, somewhat sumptuous and a sensational pool (courtesy of Google maps). I even managed to buy a ticket for the El Greco exhibition on the penultimate day so I have to get my skates on... I look forward to thinking about your send off when I am at Pension Paris in Valencia. I shall also take the train to get past Silla as I do not relish so much asphalt. Any chance of your walking the via Tolosana next year? Or the Camino de Madrid - it would be great to meet! I am still somewhat apprehensive as I am getting older with a 'dry' backpack weight of 9 kgs (but I always take some clothes to jettison...) - at least the weather front seems to be on my side for acclimatisation.

filly · May 27, 2014

Made it! The Pension Paris is ideal. Higher floor is quieter. Have balcony and washing line. Euros4.90 is single fare for metro to Colon. Weather cloudy and a few spots of rain - ideal!! C2 train to Silla from Norde station at 23 and 53 past the hour direction Moixent/l'Alcudia. Valencia is the third largest Spanish towns and I do not want to walk out and be disheartened.... Lovely place though but confusing in a medieval manner.

peregrina2000 · May 27, 2014

Hi, filly,
Looking forward to hearing about your journey. Hope you get time to enjoy the castle in Moixent, it's truly one of the best, even though it's just one of many more along the Levante. Buen camino, my friend. Laurie

peregrina2000 · May 30, 2014

filly said:
I even managed to buy a ticket for the El Greco exhibition on the penultimate day so I have to get my skates on....

Hi, filly, thought of you yesterday when the New York Review of Books arrived at our house. There's a review of the El Greco exhibit as well as a review of a recent biography of El Greco, which sounds like it might make for very interesting reading. I am not sure if you'll be able to see the online version or if it's only available to subscribers, but here is the link. Though El Greco is not one of my favorite artists, I realize that he is an extremely important one, so maybe I need to walk the Levante again and make sure not to be in Toledo on a Monday, so I can visit the El Greco Museum.

Hope you are enjoying the Levante, buen camino, Laurie

filly · Jun 3, 2014

peregrina2000 said:
Hi, filly, thought of you yesterday when the New York Review of Books arrived at our house. There's a review of the El Greco exhibit as well as a review of a recent biography of El Greco, which sounds like it might make for very interesting reading. I am not sure if you'll be able to see the online version or if it's only available to subscribers, but here is the link. Though El Greco is not one of my favorite artists, I realize that he is an extremely important one, so maybe I need to walk the Levante again and make sure not to be in Toledo on a Monday, so I can visit the El Greco Museum.

Hope you are enjoying the Levante, buen camino, Laurie

Thanks for this. Am progressing and currently in Albacete - not an inspiring place and dreadful signage.

Have only met four pilgrims to date.

Weather due to get very hot indeed...
Abdication did not make much of an impression in the bar I was at, at the time...

Heaven knows how you could have problems leaving Chinchilla - just head up a little in the old town and go left aiming to go over bridge of highway. You then are between two highways and avoid the industrial area. It is dual signed Sureste and Santiago and more direct. We all took it today somehow.

A difficult trip after the Levante. Demanding but far from stimulating and pilgrims are seen as oddities. No cooking facilities to date... and little bonhomie.

Staying at Hotel Cardinal at euros 26.40 which is apparently the booking.com rate with own bathroom and central.

filly · Jun 3, 2014

Thanks for the link. Very erudite and much appreciated. I always go to the Frick to see my favourite and when last in NYC went to see the two El Grecos at the Spanish Museum in Harlem so will be interested to see them in Toledo.

filly · Jun 3, 2014

peregrina2000 said:
Hi, filly,
Looking forward to hearing about your journey. Hope you get time to enjoy the castle in Moixent, it's truly one of the best, even though it's just one of many more along the Levante. Buen camino, my friend. Laurie

Duly went up to the castle. Seniors always get a reduction so do ask... There is a bar/restaurant up there to reward you for the uphill hike.

LTfit · Jun 4, 2014

Hi Filly,
Any other details regarding your Camino up to Albacete? Did you split the first stage in two as Laurie did or did you do the 38 km the first day? I would rather not do such a long first day but I understand that there is no albergue in Silla.
Would appreciate any updates.
Thanks and Buen Camino.
Cheers,
LT

andy.d · Jun 4, 2014

Lee,

when I walked in 2009, I stayed in Hostal Moreno in Silla which was a good place. I think it's definitely best to do a manageable first day rather than a large distance.

It is possible, some of the time, to make up your own stages rather than the ones in the Spanish Guide, although this obviously depends on where the accommodation is.

It's slightly out of date, but my list of stages and accommodation is here:

http://pilgrimpace.wordpress.com/2009/11/02/stages/

The French Guide has some accommodation in it that is not in the 2009 Spanish Guide (but the Spanish Guide is infinitely better on maps and route finding.

Buen Camino

Andy

peregrina2000 · Jun 4, 2014

filly said:
Thanks for this. Am progressing and currently in Albacete - not an inspiring place and dreadful signage.

Have only met four pilgrims to date.

Weather due to get very hot indeed...
Abdication did not make much of an impression in the bar I was at, at the time...

Heaven knows how you could have problems leaving Chinchilla - just head up a little in the old town and go left aiming to go over bridge of highway. You then are between two highways and avoid the industrial area. It is dual signed Sureste and Santiago and more direct. We all took it today somehow.

A difficult trip after the Levante. Demanding but far from stimulating and pilgrims are seen as oddities. No cooking facilities to date... and little bonhomie.

Staying at Hotel Cardinal at euros 26.40 which is apparently the booking.com rate with own bathroom and central.

Hi, filly, good to hear from you,

So are you know moving over to the Sureste?

We didn't stay in Albacete because it seemed to be such a dreary place, but then we couldn't get into the albergue in La Gineta either, so we had to take a train to La Roda.

I take it that the marking leaving Chinchilla is now much improved. Last year the guidebook did not correspond with the re-routed exit (the one you describe), but a very helpful cop took us on a tour in the evening to show us how our morning departure would go. I hope you didn't have the same problem we did with someone moving a rock with the arrow soon after the industrial outskirts -- it cost us a few more kms on a very boring long stretch!

Hope the weather doesn't get too hot, because some of those stretches will be brutal and shadeless with high temps. Buen camino, Lauie

filly · Jun 4, 2014

peregrina2000 said:
Hi, filly, good to hear from you,

So are you know moving over to the Sureste?

We didn't stay in Albacete because it seemed to be such a dreary place, but then we couldn't get into the albergue in La Gineta either, so we had to take a train to La Roda.

I take it that the marking leaving Chinchilla is now much improved. Last year the guidebook did not correspond with the re-routed exit (the one you describe), but a very helpful cop took us on a tour in the evening to show us how our morning departure would go. I hope you didn't have the same problem we did with someone moving a rock with the arrow soon after the industrial outskirts -- it cost us a few more kms on a very boring long stretch!

Hope the weather doesn't get too hot, because some of those stretches will be brutal and shadeless with high temps. Buen camino, Lauie

Hello from The Casa di Cultura, top floor int he library for one hours free internet.

Am in La Roda. Now VERY hot indeed and due to get hotter still.

Am staying in the Albergue Municipal which is great and simple and has a sort of kitchen for teh first time on this trip. Also a rack for drying clothes and it is donativo.

Walked from Albecete to La Gineta as there was no train from Albecete before 17.30 and no bus after the 6.00 am one until 9 or 9.30

So walked to La Gineta - NOT inspiring as high speed train and autovia... but straightforward.

Bus time from La Gineta was inaccurate and it appeared at 14.00 (on the way out of town and near a fountain and called a Parada de Autobus).

My feet are improving and 20kms seemed reasonable with a change of socks (a good move!). Eurs 1.43 to La Roda.

No one knew where the Albergue was and the police gave me a map and vague indications. IT IS PART OF THE PLAZA DE TOROS on the way in. It is one of the doorways with a scallop shell painted at the bottom right hand side. Highly recommended. Peaceful and unique as you have the bullring to yourself. Antonio needs a call ahead and then a call when you get there and he shows up on his bicycle and gives you keys. 630440215 is his number. He understood my non Spanish enough...

Albecete was not particularly nice but then I do not like cities when I am walking.

As to the question of my early days, I cheated and took a train to Almansa as I did not walk to walk through the suburbs and the industrial estates and I was time poor. This was a GOOD idea. Lauries plan was also good in that it meanst she had another evening in Valencia itself.

Last night in Albecete Hotel Cardinal, double room with bath and quiet to the rear. TV for royal parade etc. Booking.com rate given to me at Euros 26.40 which was more than fair. Calle Virgen de las Maravillas 5 tel 967 50 87 78. WiFi in hotel (and lift!)

Tomoroow I may go to San Clemente and stay at the Milan 2 or stop at Miyama at the Hotel Antolin depending on feet. My new Rohan boots are proving a`problem...

I have been saved by my cheap and cheerful pay as you go spanish phone which never seems to need recharging and weighs nothing. It came free with Euros 35 of top up.

I have also been saved by my Camelback water bottle with pipe. Means you do not have to stop and can also take sips rather than gulps. Lunch en route is curado manchego, which keeps well, dried fruit, an apple and often a carton of long life gazpacho, which provides the salt intake and a good flavour.

Yes I like the peace and quiet. There have been moments when the birdsong has been stupendous, the ants busy at my feet, and today the pale blue fields of poppies. Often I see noone for hours on end and few cars or agricultural workers. There is never anywhere to stop properly and the shade is rare....

I am averaging 4kms an hour allowing for stops every two hours and a lunch break. 5 kms an hour in the early morning when it is fresher.

The waymarking is getting rarer and rarer so one has to judge the right way. Today I saw a tunnel under the high speed railway so saved 15 mins of a flyover for example. However, towns are often like mirages as they appear to seem near and take more than an hour to reach!

My back is fine and my calves look healthy. I have one pair of trousers too many and a pareo which needs replacing with something thinner. Probably one top too many... but it has been cold on occasion.

to be continued...

LTfit · Jun 5, 2014

Thanks all for the information guys! This week-end I am finally going to sit down and do some planning. My Camino walking buddy just received the new (2013) Spanish guidebook from the Amigos in Valencia so we are good to go. I also have a hospitalero companion who lives in Albacete and if he is around he might join us for a few days.

Keep well @filly, thanks @andy.d and Buen (soon to be) Camino @peregrina2000!

peregrina2000 · Jun 5, 2014

LTfit said:
Thanks all for the information guys! This week-end I am finally going to sit down and do some planning. My Camino walking buddy just received the new (2013) Spanish guidebook from the Amigos in Valencia so we are good to go. I also have a hospitalero companion who lives in Albacete and if he is around he might join us for a few days.

Keep well @filly, thanks @andy.d and Buen (soon to be) Camino @peregrina2000!

Hi, LT,
Doing the first day to Algemesi would be a lot of asphalt pounding in one day, but I know you are tougher than I am. I walked to Silla and then took the train back to my pension in Valencia so I essentially had two long half days to see a bit of Valencia. If you haven't seen those Calatrava buildings, all lined up in a row on a dredged river bed, they are well worth it. Looking forward to hearing about your camino and about doing my camino! Abrazos from Laurie

Kevin F. O*brien · Jun 5, 2014

peregrina2000 said:
Hi, LT,
Doing the first day to Algemesi would be a lot of asphalt pounding in one day, but I know you are tougher than I am. I walked to Silla and then took the train back to my pension in Valencia so I essentially had two long half days to see a bit of Valencia. If you haven't seen those Calatrava buildings, all lined up in a row on a dredged river bed, they are well worth it. Looking forward to hearing about your camino and about doing my camino! Abrazos from Laurie

Hello everyone, just to say we're back after nearly nine months in Australia and the Far East. Sounds like Filly is having a good time on my favorite Camino! LT, we had some correspondence in 2012 and I'm very glad to read that you will soon be on the road. If there are any questions then, hopefully Peregrina or I can answer them! Take care everyone. Buen Camino. PS: I thought the marking on the Levante was very good, perhaps slightly shaky out of Chinchilla???

peregrina2000 · Jun 5, 2014

Kevin F. O*brien said:
Hello everyone, just to say we're back after nearly nine months in Australia and the Far East. Sounds like Filly is having a good time on my favorite Camino! LT, we had some correspondence in 2012 and I'm very glad to read that you will soon be on the road. If there are any questions then, hopefully Peregrina or I can answer them! Take care everyone. Buen Camino. PS: I thought the marking on the Levante was very good, perhaps slightly shaky out of Chinchilla???

Kevin and Kari are back! Long time since I last heard from you, sounds like quite an adventure you´ve been having.

Agreed on the Chinchilla problem, but it has now all been solved, according to filly. We were looking around for the morning´s departure route and a police office took pity on us and drove us around to show us the route out. It´s now apparently well marked, and I assume the 2013 guidebook has changed the maps to show the new route.

I would just add one more time that if you´re leaving Chinchilla and you come to a fork after the industrial area and there is only a rock on the ground with an arrow, be careful that it hasn´t been maliciously moved to trick you like it was for us. Looking at the maps in the Amigos book it will be clear that you should take the left fork and not the right fork, but we didn´t check till after we had gone kms out of our way.

Glad to have another Levante fan back on the forum. What´s next for you guys, Kevin? Buen camino, Laurie

filly · Jun 5, 2014

LTfit said:
Thanks all for the information guys! This week-end I am finally going to sit down and do some planning. My Camino walking buddy just received the new (2013) Spanish guidebook from the Amigos in Valencia so we are good to go. I also have a hospitalero companion who lives in Albacete and if he is around he might join us for a few days.

Keep well @filly, thanks @andy.d and Buen (soon to be) Camino @peregrina2000!

I

peregrina2000 said:
Kevin and Kari are back! Long time since I last heard from you, sounds like quite an adventure you´ve been having.

Agreed on the Chinchilla problem, but it has now all been solved, according to filly. We were looking around for the morning´s departure route and a police office took pity on us and drove us around to show us the route out. It´s now apparently well marked, and I assume the 2013 guidebook has changed the maps to show the new route.

I would just add one more time that if you´re leaving Chinchilla and you come to a fork after the industrial area and there is only a rock on the ground with an arrow, be careful that it hasn´t been maliciously moved to trick you like it was for us. Looking at the maps in the Amigos book it will be clear that you should take the left fork and not the right fork, but we didn´t check till after we had gone kms out of our way.

Glad to have another Levante fan back on the forum. What´s next for you guys, Kevin? Buen camino, Laurie

As I say THERE IS NO NEED TO GO ANYWHERE NEAR THE CHINCHILLA INDUSTRIAL ESTATE.

It is 8 pm and 29 degrees.... I am in San Clemente and there has been a little cloud cover today but no wind and no shade en route.

1. Grateful to Laurie for warning on route at Minaya. GO TO HOSTAL ANTOLIN AND HAVE A DRINK TGEN CROSS THE MAIN ROAD SND THE CAMINO IS THERE BUT NOT INDICATED.it is just to the left of the road to Casas de Fernando Alonso.

When you leave La Roda forget the guide book and aim for the tall chimneys, walk through the Aldi car park and turn right - you are on the camino.

Water fountain at Casas de Los Pinos and bus stop too.

Be warned too the first Hostal Milan is not the one to stay at!!!! The more modern one is just off the Plaza Mayor turning right away from the magnificent church.

Am eating opposite the main church where there is wifi La Posada del Reloj.

Am ahead of schedule but worried about Mora to Toledo day as it is due to get hotter..,.,

filly · Jun 5, 2014

I would NOT stay at Antolin as one main road.

When you are near San Clemente there are two overhead crossings. The one on the left in the road one and MUCH shorter and is reached quickest by going through the field. You save nearly 1 km I reckon....

filly · Jun 5, 2014

Jury is out on the guidebook in English from the Valencia association. I left the new maps at home... Many items are out of date, wrong numbers and not enough USEFUL information. They have sent me on some wild goose chases to look at buildings which simply not there. How about putting the locations of albergues on the town maps rather than churches which are generally closed. Another walker downloaded the Mundicamino details and they seem more than adequate, easily available and up-to-date....

saw123 · Jun 6, 2014

filly said:
Jury is out on the guidebook in English from the Valencia association. I left the new maps at home... Many items are out of date, wrong numbers and not enough USEFUL information. They have sent me on some wild goose chases to look at buildings which simply not there. How about putting the locations of albergues on the town maps rather than churches which are generally closed. Another walker downloaded the Mundicamino details and they seem more than adequate, easily available and up-to-date....

I agree with you 100% filly on the issue of not enough useful info re. albergues in the guide. the town maps are also inadequate, this may not be a problem if you have spanish language skills but i do not.
i have just returned from trying to complete levante from Almansa to Avila. from my own mistake i blindly followed arrows from alpera which was the Ruta Llana and was enjoying this way so much i didnt realise my error and walked off my map.I ended up in Alatoz for the night. i continued to Alcala de Jucar (stunning) but succumbed to tendonitis and had to abandon my trip for 7 days.
returned to Levante at Quintanar and did short stages and used the bus occasionally. Mora to Toledo will be brutal if the weather stays hot, may i suggest you bus some of this section.
be warned the section Almorox to San Martin can be confusing, at each crossroad check guide then look for markers around each corner. i found the GR markers more prominent. at the canto de las Tres Cruces arrows point to N403 but GR goes right 8 kms to san martin. at this point the map is open for interpretation, there are many more roads in this area then indicated by guide. be vigilant at each bifurcation. in San martin i stayed at hostal pillar 20euros and ate at the hacienda 100m away, excellent menu 12 euros, this was some consolation after a frustrating day. i also met another lone pilgrim from S Africa, who had also had a frustrating day, doing this way with no guide or maps i duly gave her mine as i had to return to Australia. i am hoping the weather cleared for her and she made it to Zamora. good luck and buen camino filly

speggo · Jun 6, 2014

I am starting from Ávila on 16th June so am very interested in weather, temperatures, etc. Being English, I am not too used to walking in heat, but am hoping the stages from Ávila north will be a bit cooler up to SdC. I have the amigos guide in Spanish and a reasonable level of Spanish, so I hope I can find my way! I think I will download the muni amino info as well.

Buen Camino to all

Steve

filly · Jun 7, 2014

Hel

saw123 said:
I agree with you 100% filly on the issue of not enough useful info re. albergues in the guide. the town maps are also inadequate, this may not be a problem if you have spanish language skills but i do not.
i have just returned from trying to complete levante from Almansa to Avila. from my own mistake i blindly followed arrows from alpera which was the Ruta Llana and was enjoying this way so much i didnt realise my error and walked off my map.I ended up in Alatoz for the night. i continued to Alcala de Jucar (stunning) but succumbed to tendonitis and had to abandon my trip for 7 days.
returned to Levante at Quintanar and did short stages and used the bus occasionally. Mora to Toledo will be brutal if the weather stays hot, may i suggest you bus some of this section.
be warned the section Almorox to San Martin can be confusing, at each crossroad check guide then look for markers around each corner. i found the GR markers more prominent. at the canto de las Tres Cruces arrows point to N403 but GR goes right 8 kms to san martin. at this point the map is open for interpretation, there are many more roads in this area then indicated by guide. be vigilant at each bifurcation. in San martin i stayed at hostal pillar 20euros and ate at the hacienda 100m away, excellent menu 12 euros, this was some consolation after a frustrating day. i also met another lone pilgrim from S Africa, who had also had a frustrating day, doing this way with no guide or maps i duly gave her mine as i had to return to Australia. i am hoping the weather cleared for her and she made it to Zamora. good luck and buen camino filly

Hello to anyone following. Stayed at night at El Pedroneras at most annoying albergues in the Casa del Cura where there are only TWO spaces. Four of us waited but three gave up as Jose Javier the priest showed up after 6pm rather than the promised 5pm. NOT DONATIVO but a good value 10 euros with sheets, quiet and charm. Microwave and fridge nest door but explore when he is gone! Does NOT give a key and you have to call him to get back in. He runs mass from 8 to 9.30 pm so I went for the end and he drove me back 100 metres, let me in and buzzed off! There is a good clean shower room and space for drying laundry.

Left at 06.45 due to increasing heat. Villages en route best so far other than San Clemente.

Way marking is faint and very infrequent as the Ruta de Don Quijote is promoted instead and is fine to follow from San Clemente.

Laurie's problem exiting San C stems from the fact that she missed the first arrow on the first pylon where you go LEFT. I think the way marking has been changed by the owner of a horse welcoming hacienda who did not want people traipsing through his land.

Anyway I have taken other paths and been saved by my compass. It has been good to walk on earth and to find trees to picnic under.

Am staying in the Youth Hostel in El Tobaso for 15 euros but it looks just like a hotel above a bar restaurant with wi-fi and own bathroom and sheets and towels ie fab!!

Ate yesterday at Restsurante Castilla at El Pedroneras. 8.50 euros with credencial but very good value at 10 and packed at late lunchtime as it is a truckers place.

Anyway off to explore!! Thanks for the welcome info. Temp due to rise dramatically. I put my camelbak in the freezer so get a cooler back and cold sips all day.

Feet settling. Change socks every two hours and dangle the others off an old fashioned nappy savagery pin off rucksack.

Enjoying it more now there is less traffic noise a and after grimness of Alacete...

filly · Jun 7, 2014

filly said:
Hel

Hello to anyone following. Stayed at night at El Pedroneras at most annoying albergues in the Casa del Cura where there are only TWO spaces. Four of us waited but three gave up as Jose Javier the priest showed up after 6pm rather than the promised 5pm. NOT DONATIVO but a good value 10 euros with sheets, quiet and charm. Microwave and fridge nest door but explore when he is gone! Does NOT give a key and you have to call him to get back in. He runs mass from 8 to 9.30 pm so I went for the end and he drove me back 100 metres, let me in and buzzed off! There is a good clean shower room and space for drying laundry.

Left at 06.45 due to increasing heat. Villages en route best so far other than San Clemente.

Way marking is faint and very infrequent as the Ruta de Don Quijote is promoted instead and is fine to follow from San Clemente.

Laurie's problem exiting San C stems from the fact that she missed the first arrow on the first pylon where you go LEFT. I think the way marking has been changed by the owner of a horse welcoming hacienda who did not want people traipsing through his land.

Anyway I have taken other paths and been saved by my compass. It has been good to walk on earth and to find trees to picnic under.

Am staying in the Youth Hostel in El Tobaso for 15 euros but it looks just like a hotel above a bar restaurant with wi-fi and own bathroom and sheets and towels ie fab!!

Ate yesterday at Restsurante Castilla at El Pedroneras. 8.50 euros with credencial but very good value at 10 and packed at late lunchtime as it is a truckers place.

Anyway off to explore!! Thanks for the welcome info. Temp due to rise dramatically. I put my camelbak in the freezer so get a cooler back and cold sips all day.

Feet settling. Change socks every two hours and dangle the others off an old fashioned nappy savagery pin off rucksack.

Enjoying it more now there is less traffic noise a and after grimness of Alacete...

filly · Jun 7, 2014

Left Las Pedroneras at 6.45 hoping to breakfast on a Saturday at El Perdernoso - it was dead as a dodo. To exit go past church and closed bar, go left, continue and then left on CM3102 and immediately right on path/road.

Joy in Santa Maria de Los Llanos. Look out for small panderia on right with excellent local speciality sweet cake/bread treat. Also at end of town there is a former disco which is now a churreria for churros and hot choc. Black doors! Fab.

Mota del Cuervo a pure delight. Great high street with good photo opps. Good cafés at Plaza Mayor on shady side. The best of Spain!

Any more help for onwards welcome.

I am very pleased I was not sidetracked to Alpera after all.... The compass saves me time

filly · Jun 7, 2014

Meant to say I take pictures of the town maps which often appear as you come in. Have up to date phone numbers and Main Street names etc.

I now ring police etc to give warning for albergues and to find out where to get keys. A cheap phone bought in Spain with a Spanish number means I get return missed calls for hotels...

filly · Jun 7, 2014

H

speggo said:
I am starting from Ávila on 16th June so am very interested in weather, temperatures, etc. Being English, I am not too used to walking in heat, but am hoping the stages from Ávila north will be a bit cooler up to SdC. I have the amigos guide in Spanish and a reasonable level of Spanish, so I hope I can find my way! I think I will download the muni amino info as well.

Buen Camino to all

Steve

Hello Steve

This morning was cool - now it is roasting at 8pm.

Bring some sort of torch. Pack the night before if poss and get moving early. I drink have a box of milk semi skimmed and have a couple of plain youghurts. I eat a banana on the way, have an apple, bread from dinner the night before and carry some curaso cheese and dome nuts and dried fruit. I have two small emergency pack drinks, about 1.2 litres of water in a Camelbak and 500ml in a sports bottle. One is often QUITE ALONE so you need to prepare. A decent hat with a string so that it does not blow away and good sun block. Then pace yourself and be kind to your feet. I use Neutrogena foot cream every day. Start with fewer kms... I wear very light long trousers and a long sleeved top so that I do not get burned. I have a book to relax and a small diary. I would NOT bother to bring the separate maps.

My best socks are cotton lined and from Lidl.

Things are not drying well as there is sometimes no wind so when you get somewhere, do your laundry first, then wash, the relax , then eat is my motto.

LTfit · Jun 7, 2014

Thanks for all your info Filly! I am starting to get excited. Three weeks to go!

filly · Jun 7, 2014

LTfit said:
Thanks for all your info Filly! I am starting to get excited. Three weeks to go!

Honey child as they say in the States.... Don't get TOO excited. It is tough, it is lonely and it is only becoming nice NOW 12 days in. At least you are not alone!

Get a Youth Hostel membership. This has been a great stop and book ahead in Toledo at the Hostel.

I meant to say you only need one pair of walking trousers and one pair of shorts for the evening. Whatever the guide says AVOID cotton. I often bring one way clothing, that is older or unwanted and can be dumped unwashed....

Think layers and light!

filly · Jun 8, 2014

Ex

filly said:
Honey child as they say in the States.... Don't get TOO excited. It is tough, it is lonely and it is only becoming nice NOW 12 days in. At least you are not alone!

Get a Youth Hostel membership. This has been a great stop and book ahead in Toledo at the Hostel.

I meant to say you only need one pair of walking trousers and one pair of shorts for the evening. Whatever the guide says AVOID cotton. I often bring one way clothing, that is older or unwanted and can be dumped unwashed....

Think layers and light!

Exiting Mota de la Cuervo was a little difficult... Go down the Main Street Mayor, right at end on Sabino, left at main road Real, following sign to Quintaner, left BEFORE Repsol petrol station. I took photos to help me right this and note a very faint yellow arrow on road shoulder below roadway sign of Madrid/Quintaner. The yellow, I repeat YELLOW only signs are the good ones (as opposed to yellow on blue - Sureste) are often sun bleached and less pointy!!

originalbeauty · Jun 8, 2014

Sorry to miss you filly, we are starting in early September. Maybe next year? Burn camino a todos!

filly · Jun 8, 2014

originalbeauty said:
Sorry to miss you filly, we are starting in early September. Maybe next year? Burn camino a todos!

Burn Camino indeed!!!! It is going to be a scorcher. Thanks for the Freudian slip - Buen Camino.

originalbeauty · Jun 8, 2014

Auto correct only pretends to be helpful

LTfit · Jun 8, 2014

Hi filly,
It just hit me that you are possibly from Philly? Lived for about 5 years on the Main Line.
Re clothing: this being my 8th Camino (4 in July including the Via de la Plata), I have my clothes/packing down to a science! Hope to keep my back down to 4.5-5 kilos minus water which will be a lot 3L (2L hydration sac and 2 small bottles).
Keep up the posts and Buen Camino!

filly · Jun 8, 2014

LTfit said:
Hi filly,
It just hit me that you are possibly from Philly? Lived for about 5 years on the Main Line.
Re clothing: this being my 8th Camino (4 in July including the Via de la Plata), I have my clothes/packing down to a science! Hope to keep my back down to 4.5-5 kilos minus water which will be a lot 3L (2L hydration sac and 2 small bottles).
Keep up the posts and Buen Camino!

Well.. What can I say....

I caught up with a fast Dutchman only to learn that he is giving up today at La Villa de Don Fadrique. Finds it just too solitary and countryside drab. He has done the others many times.

There are really few walking now.

Fast today as I skipped the official Camino for the Camino Natural del Trenillo. Fab! Benches, shade, info, flat and safe! It is the converted railway line.

Am staying at the Casa Rural. Now euros 28.50 inc laundry, air con, dinner, bed and breakfast, own bathroom and quiet. Rincon at 2 Playa Major. A winner.

I ask one question. Does anyone know if I can stay one night between Mora and Toledo as I am ahead if schedule?

Otherwise 32 degrees and cloud free. No wind. Whitsun weekend and the place is buzzing in a Medieval way. Virgins processing late last night in El Toboso etc.

Great churros in QuintanR de la orden in square near but not adjacent to church.

Near church on square at La Puebla de Almoradiel, great bar - tostadas with olive oil and tomatoes.

Feet better. Now know that it has been tendinitis. Feel more positive about this Camino but would still hesitate to recommend ....

peregrina2000 · Jun 8, 2014

Hi, filly,
I have been reading your posts with great interest. I have gone on enthusiastically about the Levante on many posts, and I think I can say that the big difference between our experiences was my tremendous good luck in meeting two French pilgrims who were the perfect walking companions. We met up on day 4 and walked into Santiago together a thousand kms later. I have walked totally solitary caminos (never met a soul on the Invierno or on the Vadiniense and did most of the Madrid and Lebaniego alone), and I had grown weary of being alone 24/7. In fact, before I walked the Levante I had decided I would not do another one totally alone. But there was something about the Levante that really "called" to me, so I took a chance. I am thinking that I would have had a very different experience if the Levante had wound up being another camino all alone.

Maybe the lesson here is that for most people, walking the Levante alone will be hard. I know Kevin and Andy from the forum were alone for all or some of the time, so maybe they will weigh in here. It's great to be alone with your thoughts and your demons and your angels for some chunk of time, but maybe 1200 km is too many for most of us!

Glad you are at the Rincon del Infante in Villa de Don Fadrique -- my friends slept in the polideportivo, but I was most appreciative of the warmth and the delicious evening snack and breakfast in the morning. Great price/quality ratio, in my opinion.

If your stages are like mine, the rest for you will be Tembleque, Mora, Toledo. Can't wait to hear about the El Greco exhibit!

When you get to Tembleque go into the bar/restaurante right across from the church, there are apts. above the bar that go for 20 e to pilgrims.

From Tembleque to Mora, I would advise the detour to Villanova de Bogas, it's not much longer, in fact it might not be any longer, but otherwise there is no bar/water/coffee etc. on the stage. It's well marked. You spend most of the day with one of two castles in view -- the one at Mora and the one at Almonacid.

Mora has quite a few options, from cheap pension to more elaborate hotel, and a few restaurants.

But Mora to Toledo, like you, I was hoping to find a way to break this stage up. It's long, 38-40, but mostly flat at least. It's also mostly all off road until the last 8 km into Toledo, where it gets suburban and asphalt. Namboca (few bars) and Almonacid would be the obvious places to stop, but there was nothing, at least nothing that I saw. You might try asking in the bars to see if anyone has rooms to let, in lots of small towns that is the case. But my friends wanted to forge on, so I didn't bother asking, because no way was I going to let them leave me!

Go well, filly, enjoy the last few days. Buen camino, Laurie

andy.d · Jun 8, 2014

I walked in late summer / autumn 2009. The reports are that there are more pilgrims now than there were then, but it still seems possible that you will be alone.

I was alone until Toledo. I met some friends who were on holiday and then went into Walter Starkie mode, walking a little with them, but travelling to Avila and Segovia in the car (it was important to me to visit the sites associated with the Carmelite Mystics while I had the chance). I then decided to start again in Zamora rather than go back to Toledo as this would give me time to amble up the Sanabres rather than route march. The solo walk for those first three weeks was one of the toughest but also one of the best things I have done. I'm very glad I did it. But the Levante definitely does have its challenges.

I don't think there is any official accommodation between Mora and Toledo. It was a very hot day when I walked it, but it is possible to do it. There are bars and restaurants on the way, so it's better than some earlier stages. As Laurie says, it is mainly off road until the final climb.

Andy

filly · Jun 9, 2014

In Tembleque. Staying at the Balcon de La Mancha. Basically I have a first floor apartment with air con to myself and a view of the church and the main square 109 metres away. Just spectacular and two more windmills on the way in. Followed GR239 markings and followed service road of main road after some yellow arrow way which was rather windy.

13 days without a rest day and 1 day ahead of schedule.

The man at El Rincon at Villa de Don Fadrique is difficult to control.., insisted I watch TV rather than read, eerily followed me by car on the way out. The room had no real ventilation and the dinner was snacks with the first in edible salad... An experience and clean laundry!

peregrina2000 · Jun 9, 2014

filly said:
The man at El Rincon at Villa de Don Fadrique is difficult to control.., insisted I watch TV rather than read, eerily followed me by car on the way out. The room had no real ventilation and the dinner was snacks with the first in edible salad... An experience and clean laundry!

Completely agree. I would call him a bit "fussy" but basically well-intentioned. He followed me and my two French pals out of town in the car as well.
It was one of those days I wished I had pretended I didn´t understand castellano. He started in on his views about anti-clerical Spain and I did not want to continue the conversation but was kind of held hostage. Sorry to hear that the evening snacks have deteriorated. I so enjoyed mine, I took a picture. And my room had a nice window to the outdoors, maybe this guy is cutting back on what he gives to pilgrims. Onward, filly, you´re almost there! Laurie

filly · Jun 9, 2014

Thank

peregrina2000 said:
Completely agree. I would call him a bit "fussy" but basically well-intentioned. He followed me and my two French pals out of town in the car as well.
It was one of those days I wished I had pretended I didn´t understand castellano. He started in on his views about anti-clerical Spain and I did not want to continue the conversation but was kind of held hostage. Sorry to hear that the evening snacks have deteriorated. I so enjoyed mine, I took a picture. And my room had a nice window to the outdoors, maybe this guy is cutting back on what he gives to pilgrims. Onward, filly, you´re almost there! Laurie

View attachment 10777

Thanks Laurie as ever.

Eating at the Mirador below the flat . I am alone on the first floor with views to the church AND the Playa Mayor!!!

By the way you will not get rid of me so soon as I am going on to Zamora.

Library here in a converted chapel a godsend as I get a free signal from outside after closing time... I managed to check in for my return flights and print boarding passes.

Will follow your chosen way to Mora to get a break.

peregrina2000 · Jun 9, 2014

filly said:
By the way you will not get rid of me so soon as I am going on to Zamora.

Oh, hi, filly! I don´t know why I thought you were ending in Toledo. This is great, you will get to tell us all about those wonderful mountain days before Ávila. Oh, lucky you. Enjoy enjoy. Laurie

AlanSykes · Jun 10, 2014

andy.d said:
I don't think there is any official accommodation between Mora and Toledo.

Andy

I'm hoping to do the Sureste variant of this route from Alicante in November and was recommended to stay at the acogida municipal at Almonacid de Toledo (tel 925 314001). Almonacid is apparently 31km from Temblenque and 26 on to Toledo - possibly a bit shorter than the Mora/Levante version, which seems to be c60km in total, as well as giving you a longer afternoon to enjoy Toledo. At Villanueva de Bogas, rather than turning left to Mora, it seems you can carry on on farm tracks to Almonacid. But I may be quite wrong.

peregrina2000 · Jun 10, 2014

alansykes said:
I'm hoping to do the Sureste variant of this route from Alicante in November and was recommended to stay at the acogida municipal at Almonacid de Toledo (tel 925 314001). Almonacid is apparently 31km from Temblenque and 26 on to Toledo - possibly a bit shorter than the Mora/Levante version, which seems to be c60km in total, as well as giving you a longer afternoon to enjoy Toledo. At Villanueva de Bogas, rather than turning left to Mora, it seems you can carry on on farm tracks to Almonacid. But I may be quite wrong.

Hi, Alan,
You know, I wondered why we were walking towards the Almonacid castle for a long part of the day and then suddenly turned left to head to Mora, shifting our gaze from Almonacid's castle to Mora's castle. Then the next day back to and through Almonacid. I guess it's mainly an accommodations issue. Those farm tracks are everywhere, I would think you are right that you could just keep walking towards the castle on one when you leave Villanueva de Bogas, because the camino goes right around the castle. Here is the information I had on the place in Almonacid: It's a room, no bath or toilet, call a day ahead. Not sure I'd be up for that. Buen camino, Laurie

saw123 · Jun 10, 2014

filly said:
Thank

Thanks Laurie as ever.

Eating at the Mirador below the flat . I am alone on the first floor with views to the church AND the Playa Mayor!!!

By the way you will not get rid of me so soon as I am going on to Zamora.

Library here in a converted chapel a godsend as I get a free signal from outside after closing time... I managed to check in for my return flights and print boarding passes.

Will follow your chosen way to Mora to get a break.

filly
cafe in Villanova de Bogas on right just as you enter town with albergue in sports centre opposite, only cafe in Spain i have seen where staff smoke behind the counter while serving!
It is roughly an hour to intersection, left for Mora straight on for Almonacid,(Sureste) clearly signposted at this intersection.
i met a pilgrim in Toledo who said he stayed in Burguillos de Toledo, sorry didnt get specifics, Casa Rurale? this leaves 12 km or so to Toledo.

good way, scott

peregrina2000 · Jun 10, 2014

saw123 said:
filly
cafe in Villanova de Bogas on right just as you enter town with albergue in sports centre opposite, only cafe in Spain i have seen where staff smoke behind the counter while serving!
It is roughly an hour to intersection, left for Mora straight on for Almonacid,(Sureste) clearly signposted at this intersection.
i met a pilgrim in Toledo who said he stayed in Burguillos de Toledo, sorry didnt get specifics, Casa Rurale? this leaves 12 km or so to Toledo.

good way, scott

Great tip, saw123! With a little googling I found this place, Casas Rural Ermita de la Rosa (also referred to on some other websites as Casa Rural Arroyo de la Rosa): http://www.casaruralermitadelarosa.com/ Phone: 675823888 The map shows that it is IN Burguillos de Toledo (many times these places are out kms away from the village), so it would be worth a call. They also say that they rent rooms individually. I have emailed them to see if I can get more information and will post here if I do. Buen camino, Laurie

AlanSykes · Jun 10, 2014

peregrina2000 said:
Here is the information I had on the place in Almonacid: It's a room, no bath or toilet, call a day ahead. Not sure I'd be up for that. Buen camino, Laurie

Yikes, "cuarto sin aseo", and probably sin colchón either. Yup, that's a deal-breaker for me too, even with the prospect of the luxuries of Toledo's parador as a treat for the next day. Burguillos does sound a better bet, even if it is a long day from Temblenque. Thanks for the warning, buen camino, Alan.

filly · Jun 10, 2014

Hello y'all.

Filly has found the solution!!!

I stopped at Villanuevas de Bogas - the bar is fab and has wifi. Uncle Sam as trip advisor and Señorita Google sorted it for me!

I did NOT want to go to Mora as you are going kind of backwards. So I went to Almonwhatever. Get a drink at the Bar Kuki (I kid you not! A pretty ropey sort of place but I was almost out of water).

When you exit bar go left and left again ie down the side of the bar. You are back on the Sireste. Walk straight on over the motorway and follow signs to the four star horsey spa country hotel Villa Nazules. Past some unprepossessing quarries and just after the wind turbines. Heaven and views and a pool and Egyptian cotton sheets and a pillow menu. Boy do I deserve it. Euros 81 inc breakfast. They have never seen a Pelegrino. Tomorrow I head out turn right then a few kms go right again till I hit the Sureste and go left.

So now for my verdict on the Valencia Guide - I have put it away... Too constricting and the maps do not go wide enough.

Today was a great walking day thanks to Laurie and the Sureste. The internet sorted me put. And no I did not want to stay in that room without a shower. Almonacid is a lesson in depression - ruined castle and boarded up new unfinished houses and Bar Kuki. Non merci.

My laundry is on the balcony and no one has complained.... Yet!

Treat yourself but call ahead the hotel ahead (it is far from full) - rack rate for my room is over twice without breakfast.

Tomorrow now becomes an easy day.

I seem to remember that CSJ has a travel sheet for the Levante which I forgot to print.

The Sureste signing is much better because there are bicygrinos...

Cena calls after 50 lengths of the pool!

x a happy filly my lovelies!

filly · Jun 10, 2014

Sorry forgot to say

filly said:
Hello y'all.

Filly has found the solution!!!

I stopped at Villanuevas de Bogas - the bar is fab and has wifi. Uncle Sam as trip advisor and Señorita Google sorted it for me!

I did NOT want to go to Mora as you are going kind of backwards. So I went to Almonwhatever. Get a drink at the Bar Kuki (I kid you not! A pretty ropey sort of place but I was almost out of water).

When you exit bar go left and left again ie down the side of the bar. You are back on the Sireste. Walk straight on over the motorway and follow signs to the four star horsey spa country hotel Villa Nazules. Past some unprepossessing quarries and just after the wind turbines. Heaven and views and a pool and Egyptian cotton sheets and a pillow menu. Boy do I deserve it. Euros 81 inc breakfast. They have never seen a Pelegrino. Tomorrow I head out turn right then a few kms go right again till I hit the Sureste and go left.

So now for my verdict on the Valencia Guide - I have put it away... Too constricting and the maps do not go wide enough.

Today was a great walking day thanks to Laurie and the Sureste. The internet sorted me put. And no I did not want to stay in that room without a shower. Almonacid is a lesson in depression - ruined castle and boarded up new unfinished houses and Bar Kuki. Non merci.

My laundry is on the balcony and no one has complained.... Yet!

Treat yourself but call ahead the hotel ahead (it is far from full) - rack rate for my room is over twice without breakfast.

Tomorrow now becomes an easy day.

I seem to remember that CSJ has a travel sheet for the Levante which I forgot to print.

The Sureste signing is much better because there are bicygrinos...

Cena calls after 50 lengths of the pool!

x a happy filly my lovelies!

filly · Jun 10, 2014

Sorry... Forgot to say that I did it from Bar Kuki to hotel reception in 45 minutes as I was desperate for a swim!

filly · Jun 10, 2014

Ps Paradores - the one in or rather outside Albacete had a revolting pool. Someone staying here says the pool in the Merida one was also not functioning. Things ain't what they used to be in more straightened times.

peregrina2000 · Jun 10, 2014

filly said:
Hello y'all.

Filly has found the solution!!!

I stopped at Villanuevas de Bogas - the bar is fab and has wifi. Uncle Sam as trip advisor and Señorita Google sorted it for me!

I did NOT want to go to Mora as you are going kind of backwards. So I went to Almonwhatever. Get a drink at the Bar Kuki (I kid you not! A pretty ropey sort of place but I was almost out of water).

When you exit bar go left and left again ie down the side of the bar. You are back on the Sireste. Walk straight on over the motorway and follow signs to the four star horsey spa country hotel Villa Nazules. Past some unprepossessing quarries and just after the wind turbines. Heaven and views and a pool and Egyptian cotton sheets and a pillow menu. Boy do I deserve it. Euros 81 inc breakfast. They have never seen a Pelegrino. Tomorrow I head out turn right then a few kms go right again till I hit the Sureste and go left.

So now for my verdict on the Valencia Guide - I have put it away... Too constricting and the maps do not go wide enough.

Today was a great walking day thanks to Laurie and the Sureste. The internet sorted me put. And no I did not want to stay in that room without a shower. Almonacid is a lesson in depression - ruined castle and boarded up new unfinished houses and Bar Kuki. Non merci.

My laundry is on the balcony and no one has complained.... Yet!

Treat yourself but call ahead the hotel ahead (it is far from full) - rack rate for my room is over twice without breakfast.

Tomorrow now becomes an easy day.

I seem to remember that CSJ has a travel sheet for the Levante which I forgot to print.

The Sureste signing is much better because there are bicygrinos...

Cena calls after 50 lengths of the pool!

x a happy filly my lovelies!

Filly, enjoy your well deserved splurge! Amazing what google can find you. For those who want to see where Filly is enjoying the afternoon, take a look here -- gets great reviews on booking.com, too. So looks like future pilgrims will have a couple of options, ranging from comfortable to luxurious, as an alternative walking the long way from Mora to Toledo. Tomorrow, Toledo!

LTfit · Jun 22, 2014

hmmm...wondering where @filly is now.

anniethenurse · Jun 22, 2014

WoW, what a nice reading
I know now I won´t attempt Levante/ Sureste by myself.
I got the Association guide in English with the maps and it seems not to be up to date anymore. My Spanish is almost zero so there is no guide book for me...
Wondering also where filly is now...
Laurie - it was great to meet you In Santiago and I wish we had had more time to chat...
Lee - buen camino and keep your head calm in the heat of the summer on the Levante...looking forward to your updates with excitement. You are so lucky you have your friends around.
And say hello to Josefine if you pass the albergue in Tabara!

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...leros-in-tabara-stay-there.26750/#post-214942

LTfit · Jun 22, 2014

Thanks @anniethenurse ! One of these Caminos we will get together I hope. With the amount of days I have it does not look like I will get to see Josefine - unless she comes down our way. But you never know where the Camino will take us.
I enjoyed reading your FB posts.
Take care and un abrazo,
LT

filly · Jun 22, 2014

LTfit said:
Thanks @anniethenurse ! One of these Caminos we will get together I hope. With the amount of days I have it does not look like I will get to see Josefine - unless she comes down our way. But you never know where the Camino will take us.
I enjoyed reading your FB posts.
Take care and un abrazo,
LT

Hello y'all!!

Filly is having lunch on Corpus Christi Sunday in Medina del Campo. Sunny with some clouds and now about 27 degrees. Stopped writing as I thought no one was interested...

Anyway 34kms today in just over 7 hours as downhill all the way. And a bit boring. And NOTHING open on the way (it is Sunday) whatever the guidebook says. Guidebook also said a left when it was obviously a right etc. Gives no idea of time needed or recognisable reference points. Signage just evaporated today. I am intrigued by the wooden posts that have appeared with no signage!!! Not even traces of having been stolen.... Am with the monks ce spur though nice lady at Oficins de Tourismi said that there IS a free albergue municipal at the Polidesportivi... Fridge with monks but microwave is no more. Had bath (and basin plug) so had great big warm bath!

I recommend where I am eating - Alegria on Plaza Major. Has outside wifi!!

The trip has got/gotten better. I came to enjoy it after Moto de la Cuerva. It is tough; you need stamina and water; and I am now alone having been with a few others of a different disposition.

Last night at Alverola (or whatever) I stayed at the basic municipal albergue... But no one told me there was an ALL NIGHT indoor adjacent football game. It stopped at... 5 am. Pelegrinos are oddities on this camino.

Glad I am almost done. Anyone out there, if you do it be kind as spend two full days on Toledo and one full day in Avila. Recommend it.... well just don't do it alone!

All the best. Filly.

filly · Jun 22, 2014

peregrina2000 said:
Filly, enjoy your well deserved splurge! Amazing what google can find you. For those who want to see where Filly is enjoying the afternoon, take a look here -- gets great reviews on booking.com, too. So looks like future pilgrims will have a couple of options, ranging from comfortable to luxurious, as an alternative walking the long way from Mora to Toledo. Tomorrow, Toledo!

If you do stay here. Then walk to Chueca and then at the plaza take a right fork rather than go straight on.... You need to be NW rather than W.

Filly

anniethenurse · Jun 22, 2014

thanks filly - we are following you and want to know how you are doing.
Buen camino

filly · Jun 22, 2014

anniethenurse said:
thanks filly - we are following you and want to know how you are doing.
Buen camino

Good to know. There is one VERY difficult day and I will report back. I reckon you absolutely need a compass and nerve... The problem is that if you go awry you will run out of water and there is NOONE around to help...

I have just finished a lovely bottle of wine alone (wish you could be here Nursey... have no fear as I am gay!) so now is not the time to be precise.

x Felipe Filly

anniethenurse · Jun 22, 2014

I wish...take care
Give us a daily report

speggo · Jun 22, 2014

Today I am in Zamora at the very nice and friendly albergue. Arrived by bus from Toro after a gruelling stage from Siete Iglesias and giving my feet a rest. I arrived in time to watch the religious procession, which was fascinating. If you are in Toro the Pension Zamora is good at €20. The staff were friendly and gave me a quiet room at the back. I will be passing through Tabara so will pass on your regards to Josefin.

filly · Jun 22, 2014

speggo said:
Today I am in Zamora at the very nice and friendly albergue. Arrived by bus from Toro after a gruelling stage from Siete Iglesias and giving my feet a rest. I arrived in time to watch the religious procession, which was fascinating. If you are in Toro the Pension Zamora is good at €20. The staff were friendly and gave me a quiet room at the back. I will be passing through Tabara so will pass on your regards to Josefin.

Hello

Could you give me bus time from Toro and where the 'parada' ie bus stop is located as I may opt out on my last day... Would be much appreciated.

Dinner place in Medina del Campo is Medina Real on Plaza Marques de la Ensenada just off the Plaza Mayor. They have wifi code (WLAN-76) X00138F21B76. Stylish and vegetables at last... 10 euros and 2 tvs with different programmes and no tourists : that is the joy of this Camino.

Around and after Almorox was the headache through the woods and it took much much longer with no visual orientation possible. I took one wrong turn but a peasant and a compass put me right...

Filly

speggo · Jun 22, 2014

Bus leaves at 9.30 from bus station. Full details available from helpful oficina turistico in plaza mayor. Buen camino!

filly · Jun 22, 2014

speggo said:
Bus leaves at 9.30 from bus station. Full details available from helpful oficina turistico in plaza mayor. Buen camino!

Bless you! Has just POURED over here and BIG PONCHO TIME DUE ON TUESDAY. At least it is cooler. Have not used my rucksack cover though.

Do not relish getting lost on Toro to Zamora trail and the boring bit to Villalaban AND must get to Zara to get exciting t-shirts for collection of nephews!

Felipe filly

LTfit · Jun 23, 2014

Great albergue in Zamora and wonderful hospitaleros from the Spanish Federation. Stayed twice - once July 2011 and again last summer.
Buen Camino you guys! I really enjoyed the Sanabrés.

filly · Jun 24, 2014

Siete Iglesias is somewhat boring... I think I should have walked on to next hostal.... Motorway restaurant just ok but local bar really grim.

They are gearing up for a bullfight this weekend in a temporary stadium and obviously there is a bit of a Pamplona thing planned!

Free wifi (no password) outside the library on the ground floor!!! (Sorry 'Salon Cultural - Biblioteca').

Exit from Medina del Campo was NO problem. If you go left at Santiago church you take the road but there is a yellow cross... Straight ahead and then left on Lazaro is the path.

I did ask at the Tourist Offuce - most Spaniards would not dream of walking and have no clue (other than older peasants) and she sent me on the road...

Much cooler but muggy. All night harvesting too so hay feverish!!!

Felipe

filly · Jul 1, 2014

If you do atay in Siete Iglesias at the Albergue, there is nowhere ostensibly to hang your clothes. There is in fact an attic which is unlocked and a washing line.....

anniethenurse · Jul 1, 2014

My friend @LTfit Lee has now walked 5 days on Levante. And she is doing fine

filly · Jul 13, 2014

My final thoughts now that the feet are back to normal.

Day 5 - coming in to Almansa. The final few kms were just horrible. Raining and sticky red mud!! Worst of all after you cross the main road to Almansa, I carried on the path. DON'T. It follows what amounts to an open sewer which is worthy of a third world country. The smell was terrible and what you saw floating was not nice.....

Day 19 from Almorox to San Martin de Valdeigleisas was the most difficult and confusing. And the longest in forests without water access. Take great care... My compass saved me from going off piste.

I like the trip more in retrospect and it did get better as it went but I thought the early part was most dispiriting. Albecete was also a lowlight.

Bad Pilgrim · Dec 4, 2015

peregrina2000 said:
Completely agree. I would call him a bit "fussy" but basically well-intentioned. He followed me and my two French pals out of town in the car as well.
It was one of those days I wished I had pretended I didn´t understand castellano. He started in on his views about anti-clerical Spain and I did not want to continue the conversation but was kind of held hostage. Sorry to hear that the evening snacks have deteriorated. I so enjoyed mine, I took a picture. And my room had a nice window to the outdoors, maybe this guy is cutting back on what he gives to pilgrims.

Hi,

It's me again, responding to threads that are far too old. But I wanted to give all the Levanters out there my impression of the "hospitalero" of El Rincón del Infante in Villa de Don Fadrique. Now, this man is a real Camino Character and I think that either you like him, or you can't stand him. I for one have to say that he was very helpful when I arrived.

There were actually no room available as they were all occupied by a group of Catalans doing parachuting course or something at the aviaition area nearby. So I got his and his wife's bedroom! The wife would stay at her parents' place. Needless to say I tried to convince them there was no need of doing this for me but the hospitalero wouldn' let me. (You know him - you can't argue about this with him...) His wife cleaned the bedroom, changing sheets, preparing everything in 1 hour and voilà. :O) We checked the records and I was the first one to come by in two weeks... Not many people on the Levante in June...

I read from others that he talks a lot. Well, during dinner, the five Catalan guys were there. We came to talk a lot about the Independence of Cataluña and the relationship between Cataluña and Madrid. The hospitalero didn't say a word, he just brought us things to eat, keeping himself in the background, tip-toeing around. I believe the subject of the conversation made him feel uneasy...! :O)

Next day, he followed me out of town in his car but I was well prepared for this, having read Filly's and Laurie's posts on the subject. I was awarded a plastic bag of different fruits, which I really needed so nothing wrong with that. It's just that he's VERY well-intentioned and wont take No for an answer... but in a good kind of way...

Oh! This is not all. This was in 2014, but in 2015 I returned to the same town for a second visit and... *wooooh* there is a 2nd part of this story...! Stay tuned...!!

/BP

AlanSykes · Dec 4, 2015

Bad Pilgrim said:
Hi,

It's me again, responding to threads that are far too old. But I wanted to give all the Levanters out there my impression of the "hospitalero" of El Rincón del Infante in Villa de Don Fadrique. Now, this man is a real Camino Character and I think that either you like him, or you can't stand him. I for one have to say that he was very helpful when I arrived.

There were actually no room available as they were all occupied by a group of Catalans doing parachuting course or something at the aviaition area nearby. So I got his and his wife's bedroom! The wife would stay at her parents' place. Needless to say I tried to convince them there was no need of doing this for me but the hospitalero wouldn' let me.

/BP

I liked Juan very much, but kept off politics when talking with him. I was there on the day of his wife's father's funeral and he STILL insisted on doing my laundry and leaving me a lavish "aperitivo" (far more than I usually eat for supper).

peregrina2000 · Dec 5, 2015

Bad Pilgrim said:
Hi,

It's me again, responding to threads that are far too old. But I wanted to give all the Levanters out there my impression of the "hospitalero" of El Rincón del Infante in Villa de Don Fadrique. Now, this man is a real Camino Character and I think that either you like him, or you can't stand him. I for one have to say that he was very helpful when I arrived.

There were actually no room available as they were all occupied by a group of Catalans doing parachuting course or something at the aviaition area nearby. So I got his and his wife's bedroom! The wife would stay at her parents' place. Needless to say I tried to convince them there was no need of doing this for me but the hospitalero wouldn' let me. (You know him - you can't argue about this with him...) His wife cleaned the bedroom, changing sheets, preparing everything in 1 hour and voilà. :O) We checked the records and I was the first one to come by in two weeks... Not many people on the Levante in June...

I read from others that he talks a lot. Well, during dinner, the five Catalan guys were there. We came to talk a lot about the Independence of Cataluña and the relationship between Cataluña and Madrid. The hospitalero didn't say a word, he just brought us things to eat, keeping himself in the background, tip-toeing around. I believe the subject of the conversation made him feel uneasy...! :O)

Next day, he followed me out of town in his car but I was well prepared for this, having read Filly's and Laurie's posts on the subject. I was awarded a plastic bag of different fruits, which I really needed so nothing wrong with that. It's just that he's VERY well-intentioned and wont take No for an answer... but in a good kind of way...

Oh! This is not all. This was in 2014, but in 2015 I returned to the same town for a second visit and... *wooooh* there is a 2nd part of this story...! Stay tuned...!!

/BP

Can't wait to hear Part 2.

Unlike Alan, I was regaled with politics, and I just decided that as a guest in his house it was his prerogative to talk politics, but not my position to argue. I suppose that the guest analogy isn't really appropriate since I was paying, and I know many peregrinos who would have let him have it, but that doesn't seem to me to be a very "pilgrim like" way to deal with things. Some may say that's spineless of me, but I am a pretty conflict adverse type person. Buen camino, Laurie

Bad Pilgrim · Dec 5, 2015

peregrina2000 said:
Can't wait to hear Part 2.

Unlike Alan, I was regaled with politics, and I just decided that as a guest in his house it was his prerogative to talk politics, but not my position to argue. I suppose that the guest analogy isn't really appropriate since I was paying, and I know many peregrinos who would have let him have it, but that doesn't seem to me to be a very "pilgrim like" way to deal with things. Some may say that's spineless of me, but I am a pretty conflict adverse type person. Buen camino, Laurie

I agree with your way of reasoning: you are no Bad Pilgrim, Laurie! :OD

andy.d · Dec 8, 2015

I walked through Don Fadrique rather than staying there - walked on to Villacanas as I had petrol left in the tank. I forgot for the only time to top up on water and was in trouble. Fortunately, people were harvesting grapes and took pity on me

Bad Pilgrim · Dec 9, 2015

peregrina2000 said:
Can't wait to hear Part 2.

Unlike Alan, I was regaled with politics, and I just decided that as a guest in his house it was his prerogative to talk politics, but not my position to argue. I suppose that the guest analogy isn't really appropriate since I was paying, and I know many peregrinos who would have let him have it, but that doesn't seem to me to be a very "pilgrim like" way to deal with things. Some may say that's spineless of me, but I am a pretty conflict adverse type person. Buen camino, Laurie

Okay, so here is the 2nd part:

This summer I was heading towards Don Fadrique, this time on the Sureste. I did not intend staying there again, cause I wanted to try new places whenever Levante merged with Sureste so I could compare the experiences. Like Andy wrote above, this time I headed for Villacañas about 10 kms after Don F. While approaching Don F I thought: I won't run in to this hospitalero again: the town is large, that's impossible. I stop in a store to buy food and water, and then I move towards the Plaza to withdraw money. I hear a car coming up behind me and it is the hospitalero!! What were the odds!! Now, he didn't recognize me from the year before and I didn't present myself as I saw no need of doing this (and I was afraid he would think of me as the camino freak that I am, doing almost the same Camino two years in a row. *shame*)

He leans over his son (that I also recognize from last year) in the front seat and starts to invite me to his pensión. It is just that I really want to go on to the next pueblo. The conversation grows more tense as he tries to convince me with the price, aperitivo, laundry, beds, while I repeatedly tell him Thank you very much señor, but I prefer to move on to the next pueblo. The conversation ends somewhat abruptly: "I work for the Asociación!!!" he shouts in my face (!) and slams the door of the car in front of me, and drives off in a hurry, apparently irritated of my refusal to accept the invitation. No "Hasta luego" or "Adiós" - I really made him angry...! Bad, bad pilgrim... :O(

And this is not all. On my way back I pass the same store where I entered before running into the hospitalero, and I see the owner talking in a cellphone: "Oh, so he's going to the next pueblo... He must be crazy, the heat will kill him..." and it dawns upon me that he is surely talking to the hospitalero, about me. My theory is that whenever a pilgrim enters town, local townspeople phone the hospitalero so he shows up just at the right place to conduct his business. Oh well, that's not a crime but I thought it was a fun observation. So when you enter Don Fadrique in the pilgrim outfit, don't be surprised if Hospitalero finds you before you find Hospitalero... :O)

/BP

Bad Pilgrim · Dec 15, 2015

filly said:
Around and after Almorox was the headache through the woods and it took much much longer with no visual orientation possible. I took one wrong turn but a peasant and a compass put me right...

I got lost a few times here, do bring a compass. No water before San Martin de Valdeiglesias. The only day I ran out of water. Don't be fooled by the many private properties along the first half of the way - I saw no living being there so there were no one I could ask for water.

One thing: about half way, when you cross the road so you have the road on your left side, there actually is a larger agglomeration of "summer houses" [insert correct English noun], a few kilometers straight ahead. You will walk right towards them if you get lost, forgetting to turn left at a certain point, as I did. I remember them as dots on the map in the Valencia Asociación guidebook. There were people there working in their gardens so there would be a possibility to beg desperately for water. (I didn't... Too proud to admit that I was lost... Big mistake) and I just made that detour to get back on track. Just saying. Don't count on anyone being there to help you, but I would definitely give it a try half-way if I knew I was running out of water.

/BP

Starting from Valencia on 27 May 2014 - anyone else??

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