What goes up must come down...
Two of the people (8 of us altogether) staying in the refuge des Cortalets at 2150m up had mild frostbite, having been caught in the previous day's blizzard. Going down seemed a bit of an admission of failure, but preferable to death from exposure. The other plus, not perhaps quite as big, was that the quickest route down took me past the glorious Romanesque abbey of St Michel de Cuxa, brother abbey of Montserrat. You know you're quite high up when you see eagles circling below you - the second time in my life: once previously on the Olvidado near Caminayo. The snow was still ankle deep at first light, but a couple of hours later, at about 1600m, it was mostly gone. In the gaps between the trees the views were fantastic in that crystal light - it was like having a relief map laid out in front of you. And at about 1600m I first made out the distinctive high 1000 year old tower of St Michel nearly 1000m below. The feet and knees may (and did) complain, but when you have no choice you go on. Back below 1000m and it was funny to be back in Mediterranean heat, with lizards scuttling about, pale blue crickets, hot scented cistus and wild lavender, all in one walk. St Michel was a delight: preromanesque arches, soaring tower, pale pink marble, romanesque virgin, austere crypt, views back up the cliff I'd spent the previous three days battling, totally deserted.
The first pic is of the town of Prades from high up, with St Michel in its own little square of paler green stage centre, and the second is of the tower and remains of the cloisters from near by (if you want to see the rest of the cloister you'll have to go to upper Manhattan).
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