Splitting the route between Tomar and Coimbra into shorter distances

[Raymond Aquilina]

Dear Forum members,


I am, currently planning my Camino Portuguese and would like some help with the part between Tomar and Coimbra. Brierley's book allows for for this part three whole days with Tomar/Alvaiazere - 31.3 km, Alvaiazere/Rabacal - 32.5km, Rabacal/Coimbra - 29.5km.


Since I have an extra day I would like to split this part into four days. In this way I will have shorter distances of approx 23kms each day. Could anyone suggest possible alternatives ? I note that the part between Tomar and Alvaiazere has least accommodation on the way.


Thank you and Buen Camino

Ray

 

[Former member 22438]

Between Tomar and Alvaiazère is nothing in between. You walk partly through the mountains but from Tonar after about 25 kms with a small detour of about 2 kms in Relvas is quinta Catarina. Tel. +352 236 636 314 I do not know what it isl like and what the costs are . from there it is 6 kms to Alvaiazère where we stayed in pensão O Bras. Excellent place with a good restaurant. A little bit further on , nearby the bombeiros volontarios is an albergue too.
The church in middle of the village has a very special stamp for your credential.go for that one . It is pressed in the paper by a very antique kind of machine ! When we where there at saturday the church opended at 18h00 .oposite is a farmacy in case you will have blisters and need something to cure.

Next hike you can split up in two Alvaiazère to Ansião and Ansião to Rabaçal

In Ansião we stayed in hotel Adega Típica. Nice place to stay with good restaurant. During a little stroll at night we passed an old church , looked at it and at once a lady came out a bar oposite , said something to us..??? And came up with a key, opended the door and we had to go in whetter we wanted or not. Nice church by the way.
Hope you are luckier as we were if you to stay in Adega Típica We were there at sunday and the scoccer team of Ansião-what ever it may be - won the world cup or championship of the area but untill deep in the night fans were celebrating olé olé olé underneath the window where we slept and drank the complete stock of aguardente, cerveja , vinho etc. As we noticed next morning on the streets filled with empty bottles.

In Rabaçal we stayed in the albergue.
Entering Rabaçal is a roundabout and just after at the right side is a bar.
When we were there ,they only sold beer, lemonade, cheese, cheese and cheese. No more.it seemed there was a restaurant somewhere but this was closed (monday)
The owner of the bar asked. Did you call ? Você chamou ? .....? Não ,não chamei ! No I did not ? Who must I call ? Shall I call he said ... ..??? So after finishing our cheese we went on and saw a kind of groceryshop ...we bought a bottle of water and the lady asked. Você chamou ? No I did not call... Eu vou chamar. . I will call.. It seemed you had to call a phone numberand a lady showed up and opened the albergue..
Next morning the cheese bar served us a nice breakfast with cheese and coffee. Very kind people.

So we walked to Cernache where is a school, Colegio da Inmaculada Conceição where you can sleep for free during the weekdays in a house with bunkbeds, and warm showers, toilets. Give them a call on before hand +352 239 940 630 so the concierge knows you are coming. At the administration you get your stamp.
The gate closes at 21h00 so you have to be inside. At 8h00 you are supposed to leave when the students come in. oposite the gate is a kind of bar/ restaurant for a snack and your breakfast.
The concierge only speaks portugese but no worry. It is a nice person, you will have a good laugh and you will be surrounded by many students who will find out how good their english skills are by translating everything the congierce says to you and vice versa. Great place to be.
From there are 12 kms in Coimbra

Muito sorte e bom caminho

 

[Raymond Aquilina]

Between Tomar and Alvaiazère is nothing in between. You walk partly through the mountains but from Tonar after about 25 kms with a small detour of about 2 kms in Relvas is quinta Catarina. Tel. +352 236 636 314 I do not know what it isl like and what the costs are . from there it is 6 kms to Alvaiazère where we stayed in pensão O Bras. Excellent place with a good restaurant. A little bit further on , nearby the bombeiros volontarios is an albergue too.
The church in middle of the village has a very special stamp for your credential.go for that one . It is pressed in the paper by a very antique kind of machine ! When we where there at saturday the church opended at 18h00 .oposite is a farmacy in case you will have blisters and need something to cure.

Next hike you can split up in two Alvaiazère to Ansião and Ansião to Rabaçal

In Ansião we stayed in hotel Adega Típica. Nice place to stay with good restaurant. During a little stroll at night we passed an old church , looked at it and at once a lady came out a bar oposite , said something to us..??? And came up with a key, opended the door and we had to go in whetter we wanted or not. Nice church by the way.
Hope you are luckier as we were if you to stay in Adega Típica We were there at sunday and the scoccer team of Ansião-what ever it may be - won the world cup or championship of the area but untill deep in the night fans were celebrating olé olé olé underneath the window where we slept and drank the complete stock of aguardente, cerveja , vinho etc. As we noticed next morning on the streets filled with empty bottles.

In Rabaçal we stayed in the albergue.
Entering Rabaçal is a roundabout and just after at the right side is a bar.
When we were there ,they only sold beer, lemonade, cheese, cheese and cheese. No more.it seemed there was a restaurant somewhere but this was closed (monday)
The owner of the bar asked. Did you call ? Você chamou ? .....? Não ,não chamei ! No I did not ? Who must I call ? Shall I call he said ... ..??? So after finishing our cheese we went on and saw a kind of groceryshop ...we bought a bottle of water and the lady asked. Você chamou ? No I did not call... Eu vou chamar. . I will call.. It seemed you had to call a phone numberand a lady showed up and opened the albergue..
Next morning the cheese bar served us a nice breakfast with cheese and coffee. Very kind people.

So we walked to Cernache where is a school, Colegio da Inmaculada Conceição where you can sleep for free during the weekdays in a house with bunkbeds, and warm showers, toilets. Give them a call on before hand +352 239 940 630 so the concierge knows you are coming. At the administration you get your stamp.
The gate closes at 21h00 so you have to be inside. At 8h00 you are supposed to leave when the students come in. oposite the gate is a kind of bar/ restaurant for a snack and your breakfast.
The concierge only speaks portugese but no worry. It is a nice person, you will have a good laugh and you will be surrounded by many students who will find out how good their english skills are by translating everything the congierce says to you and vice versa. Great place to be.
From there are 12 kms in Coimbra

Muito sorte e bom caminho

Thank you Albertinho for your useful post.

As you have written the part beween Tomar and Alvaiazere is limited of facilities and maybe it is more worth walking to Alvazaiare than detouring to quinta Caterina (which according to Brierley is invariably closed).
The rest of the journey to Coimbra can easily be split up as there are various facilities in most towns along the way.

I will keep note about the places you stayed at. These are all mentioned in brierly's book however it very useful to have first hand infromation about them from the actual traveler.

I will also remember the stamp from Alvaiazare church!

Kind regards,

Ray

 

[Former member 22438]

Thank you Albertinho for your useful post.

As you have written the part beween Tomar and Alvaiazere is limited of facilities and maybe it is more worth walking to Alvazaiare than detouring to quinta Caterina (which according to Brierley is invariably closed).
The rest of the journey to Coimbra can easily be split up as there are various facilities in most towns along the way.

I will keep note about the places you stayed at. These are all mentioned in brierly's book however it very useful to have first hand infromation about them from the actual traveler.

I will also remember the stamp from Alvaiazare church!

Kind regards,

Ray

You are most welcome. You could take a bus from the Tomar station for about 10 kms . Near the station stand several lines .I remember I heard a bus to Alvaiazère goes every 2 or 3 hours you could go off the bus in f.ex. Solanda or Calvinos and walk from there. Through the dense woods Saint James can't see you cheeting from above

After Coimbra do not forget Hilario's albergue in Mealhada/Serdanello where you can enjoy a common diner with other pilgrims together. As far I know this is the only place you can do this together with casa da Fernanda further on between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima.
We liked it very much at Hilario's. Had a nice room with a double bed but there were also were rooms with 4 beds.
Another one in our memory was the Sanctuario de Nossa Senhora do Socorro just outside Albergaría-a-Velha. A retaîte house where nuns take care of you. I thought we paid 3€ each had a lunch , diner and breakfast. Bunkbeds ,shower etc. Beautiful environs and a beautiful view because you are on top of a hill

Leaving Albergarìa after 3 kms is a big Maria statue. To the right on top of a steep hill is the sanctuary.

In Oliveira de Azemeís we had the most filthy hostal, Anacleto. Keep far away from it. Disgusting. . If you want to stay in that place choose hotel Dighton for safety.
Solar in São Joáo da Madeiro was a good place to stay.

Bom caminho

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Ray,
Have you seen the document "Shorter Stages from Lisbon?" It's in the resources section, and was put together by a bunch of us who have walked from Lisbon. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/short-stages-from-lisbon-to-porto.133/

It doesn't add anything to what Albertinho says except that there is a "pick n drop" service available for people who want to "walk every step" but don't want to do the 30 km days.

And I will be posting the 2015 version of the guide from Lisbon to Porto in a few days. I just have to put in a couple of Diogo's more recent comments on some of the first couple stages right out of Lisbon. Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

Between Tomar and Alvaiazère is nothing in between. You walk partly through the mountains but from Tonar after about 25 kms with a small detour of about 2 kms in Relvas is quinta Catarina. Tel. +352 236 636 314 I do not know what it isl like and what the costs are . from there it is 6 kms to Alvaiazère where we stayed in pensão O Bras. Excellent place with a good restaurant. A little bit further on , nearby the bombeiros volontarios is an albergue too.
The church in middle of the village has a very special stamp for your credential.go for that one . It is pressed in the paper by a very antique kind of machine ! When we where there at saturday the church opended at 18h00 .oposite is a farmacy in case you will have blisters and need something to cure.

Next hike you can split up in two Alvaiazère to Ansião and Ansião to Rabaçal

In Ansião we stayed in hotel Adega Típica. Nice place to stay with good restaurant. During a little stroll at night we passed an old church , looked at it and at once a lady came out a bar oposite , said something to us..??? And came up with a key, opended the door and we had to go in whetter we wanted or not. Nice church by the way.
Hope you are luckier as we were if you to stay in Adega Típica We were there at sunday and the scoccer team of Ansião-what ever it may be - won the world cup or championship of the area but untill deep in the night fans were celebrating olé olé olé underneath the window where we slept and drank the complete stock of aguardente, cerveja , vinho etc. As we noticed next morning on the streets filled with empty bottles.

In Rabaçal we stayed in the albergue.
Entering Rabaçal is a roundabout and just after at the right side is a bar.
When we were there ,they only sold beer, lemonade, cheese, cheese and cheese. No more.it seemed there was a restaurant somewhere but this was closed (monday)
The owner of the bar asked. Did you call ? Você chamou ? .....? Não ,não chamei ! No I did not ? Who must I call ? Shall I call he said ... ..??? So after finishing our cheese we went on and saw a kind of groceryshop ...we bought a bottle of water and the lady asked. Você chamou ? No I did not call... Eu vou chamar. . I will call.. It seemed you had to call a phone numberand a lady showed up and opened the albergue..
Next morning the cheese bar served us a nice breakfast with cheese and coffee. Very kind people.

So we walked to Cernache where is a school, Colegio da Inmaculada Conceição where you can sleep for free during the weekdays in a house with bunkbeds, and warm showers, toilets. Give them a call on before hand +352 239 940 630 so the concierge knows you are coming. At the administration you get your stamp.
The gate closes at 21h00 so you have to be inside. At 8h00 you are supposed to leave when the students come in. oposite the gate is a kind of bar/ restaurant for a snack and your breakfast.
The concierge only speaks portugese but no worry. It is a nice person, you will have a good laugh and you will be surrounded by many students who will find out how good their english skills are by translating everything the congierce says to you and vice versa. Great place to be.
From there are 12 kms in Coimbra

Muito sorte e bom caminho

Hey, Albertinho, I think you've been withholding some important update information from me. I will go to my revisions to add some of this.

 

[Former member 22438]

Hey, Albertinho, I think you've been withholding some important update information from me. I will go to my revisions to add some of this.

I am so sorry Laurie. I allready posted this kind of things earlier together with amorfati1 (Claudia ) here on the Portugese forum. I thought this was in july 2014. I do not know how to copy the link of the post. Maybe somebody can give me the clue !
I read your document, even followed it with the Brierley guide in my hand but could not give you more corrections than some typos.
Maybe I can post the places we have been, also for Raymond Aquillo eventually with some anecdotes. So you can use the information if you haven't this allready.

 

[peregrina2000]

I am so sorry Laurie. I allready posted this kind of things earlier together with amorfati1 (Claudia ) here on the Portugese forum. I thought this was in july 2014. I do not know how to copy the link of the post. Maybe somebody can give me the clue !
I read yoyr document, even followed it with the Brierley guide in my hand but could not give you more corrections than some typos.
Maybe I can post the places we have been, also for Raymond Aquillo eventually with some anecdotes. So you can use the information if you haven't this allready.

I was REALLY just joking. I do want to add some of the opinions you put in this thread, though, because I always like to have as many first hand opinions as possible. L.

 

[amorfati1]

Dear Forum members,


I am, currently planning my Camino Portuguese and would like some help with the part between Tomar and Coimbra. Brierley's book allows for for this part three whole days with Tomar/Alvaiazere - 31.3 km, Alvaiazere/Rabacal - 32.5km, Rabacal/Coimbra - 29.5km.


Since I have an extra day I would like to split this part into four days. In this way I will have shorter distances of approx 23kms each day. Could anyone suggest possible alternatives ? I note that the part between Tomar and Alvaiazere has least accommodation on the way.


Thank you and Buen Camino

Ray

good morning Ray -
Albertinho already gave good pointers. Which gives an easy insight into my impression/experience than there is much more to any camino than what one finds in guidebooks, biereley and otherwise.
from TOMAR i made use of the ride-out-of-town service offered by the Hostal 2300 in Tomar. that way the very pretty walk to Alvaiazere shortened nicely to 23km or thereabouts.
There I stayed at a new private albergue next to the church "Pinheiro", had a late lunch @ O Bras, quite good.
In Ansiao I stayed at the Adega Tipica and quite liked it. Seems like i lucked out w/ the football fans, there were only a few, even though i stayed there on a sunday as well.
In Rabacal I stayed at the Casa Turismo, next to the museum.
more info as well here @ this link:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-on-caminho-portuguese-w-images-part-i.27901/

very wise for opting for shorter stages ...no need to rush and push on
bom caminho!!!

 

[amorfati1]

I am so sorry Laurie. I allready posted this kind of things earlier together with amorfati1 (Claudia ) here on the Portugese forum. I thought this was in july 2014. I do not know how to copy the link of the post. Maybe somebody can give me the clue !
I read yoyr document, even followed it with the Brierley guide in my hand but could not give you more corrections than some typos.
Maybe I can post the places we have been, also for Raymond Aquillo eventually with some anecdotes. So you can use the information if you haven't this allready.

quite so - info happily shared way back when ... July 2014 is right.

added the link to my post below (to my li'l route schedule)
here is the link to the more general sub-forum of the caminho portuguese for an abundance of more info for Ray and anyone else ...
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...portuguese-albergues-pensions-and-hostals.81/
(highlight the link in the web-browser address line, copy link, paste it onto your msg/reply. since i use a MAC, it's Command C, then Command V)
cheers and good weekend
c

 

[Former member 22438]

So here we go .
The first two days we stayed in Lisbon ,being the "tourists"
Day three we started easy and walked to the poussada de Juventude in Moscovide.
Next day we walked to Alverca do Ribatejo but from there took the train to Amzambuja stayed in residencia Flor moreless oposite the trainstation.

From Azambuja we walked to Santarèm and stayed at Mario's fantastic hostal Santarèm hostal in a double bedroom and played Mario's guitars in the livingroom.great place to be !

Next day went on to Golegã and stayed at Solo Duro. Very nice place to stay and a caring landlady. Loved the big dogswalking around. Very kind animals

From Golegã we walked to Tomar and asking at the touristinfo for beds ,two Italian peregrinos in front of us asked for the bombeiros volontarios so we followed them and slept on matrasses on the ground. An experience but once and no more
From Tomar to Coimbra I decribed here above in this thread.
So after diner I will continue.

 

[Former member 22438]

Great Claudia ! Enjoy the weekend !

 

[Former member 22438]

I was REALLY just joking. I do want to add some of the opinions you put in this thread, though, because I always like to have as many first hand opinions as possible. L.

You get it dear Laurie. You know you are special to us.. Every time I look at our Compostelas it reminds us to you sitting behind the desk of the pilgrims office and wrote our names upon them.

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, no,
I don't want all my dear Lisboa-Porto friends thinking I haven't used all their wonderful contributions in the guide. Claudia and Albertinho, your many helpful comments have already been added and are MUCH appreciated. The delay is just because I wanted to add all of Diogo's new information about the stages before Azambuja, and I now have it all.

 

[Former member 22438]

Well anyway. To be continued.
In Coimbra is big choice of accomodation. We stayed in hotel Avenida just over the bridge. Old grandeur from long time but a bit "worn out" any way we liked it and it is lose by the interesting must sees of the town. The University with its beautiful library.. For the tourists in us.. The fado rehearsal just oposite the cathedral. Very emotianal music. We loved it and a glass of portwine afterwards
As I should come back to Coimbra and defeinitively will I should stay in the albergue Rainha Santa Isabel. Just before the bridge entering Coimbra.

From here I decribed Mealhada allready so come to Agueda.
There was something written about Águeda on this forum some weeks ago a.o.by Laurie We stayed in residencia Celeste , 3 kms beyond the center and.. Uphill ..! . which we liked. Only when you like to eat someting you have to walk baack 3 kms to the restaurants and walk back again so add 6 extra kms on your days quotum. You could order food at the reception that will be brought but we prefered to have diner in the center and walk to and fro !

Albergaría I wrote about allready aswell Oliveirade Azemeìs and São João da Madeira.

Between São João and Porto you will have the oportunity to stay in Grijo. We chose to go on to Porto but there isan albergue, a hotel and a residential around.

In Porto we stayed in hostal Duas Naçãoes but I never should advice anybody to go there
Heard good stories of the Poets Hostal. Anybody could confirm that ?

We took the metro to Matosinhos and walked from there the coastal to Vila do Conde .coming back from Santiago after having acomplished our caminho , to Porto we stayed in hostal Central in Matosinhos -excellent-good price -breakfast - and walked back the 10 kms to Porto center alongside the Atlantic Ocean and the Douro river. If you have time walk the 10 kmsfrom Porto to Matosinhos. A lovely walk .
In Vila do Vonde we stayed at the campingsite in a holiday house. Expensive but comfortable after 3 weeks walking from Lisbon. We loved it. Swimmingpool, camping shop-we are campers-travelled last year through Portugal Spain and France with car and caravan-

Next stop was the albergue in São Pedro de Rates. Nice place. The groceryshop oposite the road supplies the best stamp of the entire caminho, a bi coloured stamp. Go for it !

In Barcelos we missed the albergue just before the medieval bridge so stayed in hotel Dom Nuño. Priat room, hot shower, breakfast. Great. We stayed two days and on our rest day we visited Braga by bus. A must see. If you have the time. Do it !
About casa da Fernanda I write about every day. Do not miss it !

to be continued after the coffee break (with pasteís de nata )

 

[Former member 22438]

From Fernanda we walked to Ponte deLima. A German lady we met in Lisbon and we were in contact with Whatsapp walked some days in front of us and wrote that we better could forget the albergue in Ponte de Lima .was not good by that time. Do not know how it is now- so stayed in hostal são João . Was okay. Nice town. Nice restaurants ..
From Ponte de Lima to Rubiães is a tough day. Off road hike, lot of inclination to after 8 hours we were fed up and happy to see hostal São Rogue . By car they take you to a restaurant 3 kms further on if you want to and take you back afterwards. Excellent service.

From there to Valença do Minho. We could not find the albergue so stayed in hotel Val Flores just oposite the medieval fortress Being at the fortress you have a beautiful view over the river Minho, the famous bridge built by Eiffel and Tuí at the Spanish side.

Thewalk to O Porrińo was bouring. By then over the industrial estate for miles. Now be prepared to follow the "green "detour. We stayed in hotel Parque. Luxury but the breakfast was a disappointment. Due to the price we paid for it.


In Redondela we stayed in the albergue in the center. Okay but for us too busy .
When we arrive again in Redondela coming May we will find another place to stay.

Pontevedra we stayed in Hostal Maruja. Was okay. Just in the center.

In Caldas de Reís we stayed in albergue O Cruceiro . This is a hotel but a part of it is an albergue. Same facilities as the hotel, only you use your own towel and soap etc. A restaurant is downstairs and a supermercado is oposite highly recommended place to stay.


Padrón We chose for hostal Jardím. Excellent Nice room. Lots of restaurants around. Our breakfast was at Pepe's bar , the craziest man on the entire caminho Portugues. Find out yourself and have fun....

From Padrón you could walk in one day to Santiago, but by then being our first caminho and enjoying every minute of it.- We did not book a return flight -pensionados with all time for ourselves so decided to stay as long as we wanted .
So stayed in Teo in Casa Cruseiro. Not cheap but enjoyed our room with jacuzzi , the home cooked diner by the landlady and a drink in a bar around the corner at night.
Next morning we were in time in Santiago to attend the pilgrims mass and saw the Botafumeiro swinging

We stayed in albergue/hostal La Salle Had a nice double bed room and a great time in Santiago for two days.

Back to Porto. In the meantime I had booked the returnflight to Holland but we had 4 days to wait in Porto so as said walked back from Matosinhos to Porto for a second visit, visited the beautiful town of Guimarāes and had a day at the Matosinhos beach before we flew back home. 35 days uot and back home .

Last year we came back and walked the camino Inglès from Ferrol and after that we toured with our car and caravan trough Spain, Portugal and France and after 2 months we were back home. What a terrible life .

Coming May we will fly to Porto again. Start in Vilarinho and walk to casa da Fernanda. From there we will take the bus to Viana do Castelo and walk the Coastal route to Redondela and Pontevedra where we will head west, the ruta dos Salnés also called the variante espiritual do caminho Português.
This ends by boat -yes! -in Padrón and on to Santiago

Looking forward to come back in Portugal. O país nós gostamos muito !

Bom caminho

 

[mspath]

...

From there to Valença do Minho. We could not find the albergue so stayed in hotel Val Flores just oposite the medieval fortress Being at the fortress you have a beautiful view over the river Minho, the famous bridge built by Eiffel and Tuí at the Spanish side....

In Valenca do Minho coming from the south on the camino go up hill on the rua Nossa Senora de Fatima to rua Jose Maria Goncalves, 10, where the Valenca do Minho pilgrim albergue of Sao Teotonio (donativo) will be on your left. At the albergue you will see camino markers to lead you across the old international bridge by Eiffel and into Tui, Spain.

Bom Caminho,

MM

 

[Magwood]

Hi @Raymond Aquilina. I walked Tomar to Coimbra over four days as follows -

Tomar to Alvaiazere, 34.75 km
Alvaiazere to Alvorge 25.5 km
Alvorge to Condeixa a Nova, 26.5 km
Condeixa a Nova to Coimbra 21.5 km

You can read about the places I stayed in on my blog - http://magwood.me/camino-portuguese/

 

[Former member 22438]

good morning Ray -
Albertinho already gave good pointers. Which gives an easy insight into my impression/experience than there is much more to any camino than what one finds in guidebooks, biereley and otherwise.
from TOMAR i made use of the ride-out-of-town service offered by the Hostal 2300 in Tomar. that way the very pretty walk to Alvaiazere shortened nicely to 23km or thereabouts.
There I stayed at a new private albergue next to the church "Pinheiro", had a late lunch @ O Bras, quite good.
In Ansiao I stayed at the Adega Tipica and quite liked it. Seems like i lucked out w/ the football fans, there were only a few, even though i stayed there on a sunday as well.
In Rabacal I stayed at the Casa Turismo, next to the museum.
more info as well here @ this link:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-on-caminho-portuguese-w-images-part-i.27901/

very wise for opting for shorter stages ...no need to rush and push on
bom caminho!!!

Yes casa Turismo it was.I thought was the same entrance as the museum. .
Entering Rabaçal everybody there is helping you calling the lady with the key to let you in. I thought we paid 5€ for the night each.

 

[Raymond Aquilina]

good morning Ray -
Albertinho already gave good pointers. Which gives an easy insight into my impression/experience than there is much more to any camino than what one finds in guidebooks, biereley and otherwise.
from TOMAR i made use of the ride-out-of-town service offered by the Hostal 2300 in Tomar. that way the very pretty walk to Alvaiazere shortened nicely to 23km or thereabouts.
There I stayed at a new private albergue next to the church "Pinheiro", had a late lunch @ O Bras, quite good.
In Ansiao I stayed at the Adega Tipica and quite liked it. Seems like i lucked out w/ the football fans, there were only a few, even though i stayed there on a sunday as well.
In Rabacal I stayed at the Casa Turismo, next to the museum.
more info as well here @ this link:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-on-caminho-portuguese-w-images-part-i.27901/

very wise for opting for shorter stages ...no need to rush and push on
bom caminho!!!

I find this tread very helpful and all the posts have given me a lot of further information how things are done on this route. I thank everyone for the input.

I this way I have already formed a good opinion about the most poular/ best places to stay. However I am not sure if its right to book beforehand as such hostels generally have limited number of beds.
Any opinion about this point?

buen camino,
and best regards,

Ray

 

[peregrina2000]

Another one in our memory was the Sanctuario de Nossa Senhora do Socorro just outside Albergaría-a-Velha. A retaîte house where nuns take care of you. I thought we paid 3€ each had a lunch , diner and breakfast. Bunkbeds ,shower etc. Beautiful environs and a beautiful view because you are on top of a hill

Hi, Albertinho, I didn't have this information, so I've put it in the guide and am going to go back over all the pre-Porto comments to make sure I have the rest. Thanks very much for the updates, Laurie

 

[Former member 22438]

Another one in our memory was the Sanctuario de Nossa Senhora do Socorro just outside Albergaría-a-Velha. A retaîte house where nuns take care of you. I thought we paid 3€ each had a lunch , diner and breakfast. Bunkbeds ,shower etc. Beautiful environs and a beautiful view because you are on top of a hill

Hi, Albertinho, I didn't have this information, so I've put it in the guide and am going to go back over all the pre-Porto comments to make sure I have the rest. Thanks very much for the updates, Laurie

Ha ha. But all peregrino's beware ! At the Sanctuary - we were there plus a German peregrino, we met earlier in Águeda- the nun asked "what time you want to have breakfast ? ". We said 7h30 ! Optimo ! So at 7h30 punto we came out the door of our bedroom and there was a nun waiting , arms crossed ! You are in time más.onde está o Alemāo ? Where is the German ? We don't know. Okay. Come with me for breakfast. He is too late he won't get nothing !

Later on we met him ..he rose at 9h00 and nobody was there any more ,neither was a breakfast . So if you stay there,be in time !

 

[amorfati1]

I find this tread very helpful and all the posts have given me a lot of further information how things are done on this route. I thank everyone for the input.

I this way I have already formed a good opinion about the most poular/ best places to stay. However I am not sure if its right to book beforehand as such hostels generally have limited number of beds.
Any opinion about this point?

buen camino,
and best regards,

Ray

ola ! glad you are finding the thread posting helpful! it's indeed fun to explore.
reg reserving ahead of time: did once ahead of Azambuja (2hrs prior) because i knew that the pensao only has 3 rooms, and i wanted to get one of those, and was in no mood nor shape to be trapsing 'round the town to find an alternative if that pensao would be completo.
the other one was for the Seminario Mayor in Santiago. I send an email reservation ONE day ahead ... and that was too late. Completo
otherwise i enjoyed being free of those reservation constraints... and did not want to feel obligated in any way. what if i reserved and did not like the place for whatever reason? or i wanted to stop in a place earlier? or wanted to walk on further? Preferred to just flow along and trust that a bed always will be found. and it always was! worry less, enjoy more
saluti - bom caminho!

 

[Andorinha]

Between Tomar and Alvaiazère is nothing in between. You walk partly through the mountains but from Tonar after about 25 kms with a small detour of about 2 kms in Relvas is quinta Catarina. Tel. +352 236 636 314 I do not know what it isl like and what the costs are . from there it is 6 kms to Alvaiazère where we stayed in pensão O Bras. Excellent place with a good restaurant. A little bit further on , nearby the bombeiros volontarios is an albergue too.
The church in middle of the village has a very special stamp for your credential.go for that one . It is pressed in the paper by a very antique kind of machine ! When we where there at saturday the church opended at 18h00 .oposite is a farmacy in case you will have blisters and need something to cure.

Next hike you can split up in two Alvaiazère to Ansião and Ansião to Rabaçal

In Ansião we stayed in hotel Adega Típica. Nice place to stay with good restaurant. During a little stroll at night we passed an old church , looked at it and at once a lady came out a bar oposite , said something to us..??? And came up with a key, opended the door and we had to go in whetter we wanted or not. Nice church by the way.
Hope you are luckier as we were if you to stay in Adega Típica We were there at sunday and the scoccer team of Ansião-what ever it may be - won the world cup or championship of the area but untill deep in the night fans were celebrating olé olé olé underneath the window where we slept and drank the complete stock of aguardente, cerveja , vinho etc. As we noticed next morning on the streets filled with empty bottles.

In Rabaçal we stayed in the albergue.
Entering Rabaçal is a roundabout and just after at the right side is a bar.
When we were there ,they only sold beer, lemonade, cheese, cheese and cheese. No more.it seemed there was a restaurant somewhere but this was closed (monday)
The owner of the bar asked. Did you call ? Você chamou ? .....? Não ,não chamei ! No I did not ? Who must I call ? Shall I call he said ... ..??? So after finishing our cheese we went on and saw a kind of groceryshop ...we bought a bottle of water and the lady asked. Você chamou ? No I did not call... Eu vou chamar. . I will call.. It seemed you had to call a phone numberand a lady showed up and opened the albergue..
Next morning the cheese bar served us a nice breakfast with cheese and coffee. Very kind people.

So we walked to Cernache where is a school, Colegio da Inmaculada Conceição where you can sleep for free during the weekdays in a house with bunkbeds, and warm showers, toilets. Give them a call on before hand +352 239 940 630 so the concierge knows you are coming. At the administration you get your stamp.
The gate closes at 21h00 so you have to be inside. At 8h00 you are supposed to leave when the students come in. oposite the gate is a kind of bar/ restaurant for a snack and your breakfast.
The concierge only speaks portugese but no worry. It is a nice person, you will have a good laugh and you will be surrounded by many students who will find out how good their english skills are by translating everything the congierce says to you and vice versa. Great place to be.
From there are 12 kms in Coimbra

Muito sorte e bom caminho

how was the cheese? lol
Good info here - I am trying to keep a stage a little shorter here if possible - obrigada

 

[Rainerbernd]

You are most welcome. You could take a bus from the Tomar station for about 10 kms . Near the station stand several lines .I remember I heard a bus to Alvaiazère goes every 2 or 3 hours you could go off the bus in f.ex. Solanda or Calvinos and walk from there. Through the dense woods Saint James can't see you cheeting from above

After Coimbra do not forget Hilario's albergue in Mealhada/Serdanello where you can enjoy a common diner with other pilgrims together. As far I know this is the only place you can do this together with casa da Fernanda further on between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima.
We liked it very much at Hilario's. Had a nice room with a double bed but there were also were rooms with 4 beds.
Another one in our memory was the Sanctuario de Nossa Senhora do Socorro just outside Albergaría-a-Velha. A retaîte house where nuns take care of you. I thought we paid 3€ each had a lunch , diner and breakfast. Bunkbeds ,shower etc. Beautiful environs and a beautiful view because you are on top of a hill

Leaving Albergarìa after 3 kms is a big Maria statue. To the right on top of a steep hill is the sanctuary.

In Oliveira de Azemeís we had the most filthy hostal, Anacleto. Keep far away from it. Disgusting. . If you want to stay in that place choose hotel Dighton for safety.
Solar in São Joáo da Madeiro was a good place to stay.

Bom caminho

Olá Albertinho , what about Vila Verde with it´s Albergue Heart Way Pilgrim House (donativo) ? As I remember, it´s about 20 km from Tomar.

Bom caminho, Rainer

 

[Andorinha]

Olá Albertinho , what about Vila Verde with it´s Albergue Heart Way Pilgrim House (donativo) ? As I remember, it´s about 20 km from Tomar.

Bom caminho, Rainer

Thank you Albertinho, I really appreciate the information - I suspect St James is ok with this plan too ) I will start to map this out this weekend and plot those ideas into my map - I am very grateful! And Rainer, I will check your idea too, obrigada!
I am a little unsure about the 20 mile day day one of my walk, and thought to break it, even if it has to be by bus is ok if I need that at the time.
Learning so much and hope Albertinho you might be at Casa de Fernanda in March 2019? Perhaps?