LIVE from the Camino SonofPurky & me on the Salvador - July 2024

[Purky]

Day 1 - Holland to Oviedo

And we're off! Train, plane and bus got us in Oviedo where we'll spend the night because we arrived late-ish. Tomorrow we'll take the early train to Leon and start the Salvador proper.

As far as first traveldays go, today was pretty good. No mad dash for the last shopping to be done, plenty of time for packing and no queues to speak of at the airport.

It's cloudy and overcast in Asturias. Quite a bit of rain too. Good thing we're hardy Dutch. Weather-wise it has been fall in Holland for the last year, so we're used to it.

 

[peregrina2000]

Just remember that most of those long tunnels the train goes through are through mountains you will have to climb on the way back.

Buen camino Purky&Son, looking forward to following along.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino, you two! You can't get more of a contrast in terrain between home and camino than this!

I hope you get to see a bit of old Oviedo when you get back there on foot - and along the way. Lots of Visigothic wonders in that neck of the woods.

 

[Anik2001]

On my way to León (by foot, coming from the camino de Madrid), I will start the San Salvador on Sunday, so will be following you by a day or so. Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

On my way to León (by foot, coming from the camino de Madrid), I will start the San Salvador on Sunday

IMHO, this is one of the great combo caminos. Madrid-Salvador-Primitivo. Will you continue on in Oviedo?

 

[Anik2001]

IMHO, this is one of the great combo caminos. Madrid-Salvador-Primitivo. Will you continue on in Oviedo?

Yes, that’s the plan!

 

[beliperegrina]

Hi Purky, whish you a great hike. As I plan to go the Salvador in September, I will follow your posts with much interest!! Buen camino

 

[Purky]

Day 2 - Oviedo-Leon-La Robla

The alarm on my telephone didn't work as planned this morning, but we were awake early enough to still catch the 6:30 train to Leon. No pocketknives were confiscated during the onboarding process.

In Leon I was hunting for an illusive gascanister for my Jetboil. I finally found one around ten o'clock, so that meant we left Leon at 10:30. A bit late, cause we arrived in La Robla at 18:30.

On the way SonofPurky performed exactly as I thought he would: I can keep up fine on flats and descents, but he absolutely murders me going up. He just smiles every now and then when I'm huffing and puffing, but keeps his opinion to himself. I raised him well.

 

[VNwalking]

I can keep up fine on flats and descents, but he absolutely murders me going up.

Hoo boy. Fun is coming. Good thing you raised him as you did.

 

[alwalker]

On my way to León (by foot, coming from the camino de Madrid), I will start the San Salvador on Sunday, so will be following you by a day or so. Buen Camino!

I was supposed to do this camino this year and I got side tracked. Maybe next years camino??? please post your thoughts and albergues.

 

[Purky]

Cup of Joe

 

[Mananath]

I might be starting this one on the 17th, I am looking forward to hearing your thoughts as you continue!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Cup of Joe

View attachment 174485

One of the sad developments on the Salvador is the closure of the bar right across the street from this pretty place. It served absolutely fabulous tortillas, of all kinds.

@Purky, I don’t know if you’re an Ender fan, but I could see if he’s around to come say hi.

 

[David Tallan]

IMHO, this is one of the great combo caminos. Madrid-Salvador-Primitivo. Will you continue on in Oviedo?

I have to agree. I really enjoyed it last year.

 

[Purky]

I don’t know if you’re an Ender fan, but I could see if he’s around to come say hi.

I am an Ender fan. And a fan of your translation!



Edit: currently in Poladura. Tomorrow, if everything goes well, Bendueños.

 

[peregrina2000]

I should have thought of this yesterday, when you were in La Robla, but I’ll see whether he is around. What are your stages for tonight and tomorrow?

 

[Purky]

I should have thought of this yesterday, when you were in La Robla, but I’ll see whether he is around. What are your stages for tonight and tomorrow?

Tonight I'm in Poladura (Posada), tomorrow we'll push for Bendueños. I haven't sorted Mieres yet, any suggestions?

 

[peregrina2000]

I haven't sorted Mieres yet, any suggestions?

I have only stayed in a hostal in the center. On some of my Salvador caminos, I spent the previous night in Pola de Gordón, and then I just went straight on through Mieres to Oviedo. But I like Mieres and would stay there again. It’s not pretty or charming, but it has a very good vibe and is very lively. Good food!

There are two “pilgrim possibilities” that I see in Gronze - the university dorm option and the new albergue a few kms out of town in El Rollu. I haven’t stayed in either place, so hopefully people who have slept in Mieres more recently than I will chime in.

I’ve sent Ender a WhatsApp. I know that he had grandkids visiting recently, so he may be tied up, but I’ll let you know.

 

[peregrina2000]

Just heard back. He does have his grandkids in town, and as I write this they are all hiking up to the top of Pico Cueto. These kids are all under 8 or 9, but their grandfather is making sure they will get good training!

 

[Purky]

Day 3 - La Robla - Poladura de la Tercia

I'm not gonna lie: I wasn't looking forward to the climb just after Buiza. I had vivid memories of doing it in 2018 and they weren't pleasant. I'm not a great climber and also not fond of it. It's just that the payoff on the Salvador is so worth it.

Anyway, my boy had other ideas. Not wanting to stand in his way, I released him just after the second fuente in Buiza. As he's a sporty dude, he's got all kinds of fitness-gizmo's on his phone and he's not afraid to show them. That's how I know it took him 39 minutes to get to the top. For you statistics-lovers: 2.78 km going up with an average speed of 4,2 km/hr. I took 63 minutes and don't want to know anything more. Oh, to be young again.

We're staying at the Posada in Poladura, nice and posh. I stayed in the albergue last time and am obviously looking for new experiences. Make sure to book a meal ahead of time (at least a day!) for either the albergue or the Posada. The chef here is unrelenting.

 

[VNwalking]

Very nice. All your photos.

I'm in the creeping ever slower brigade too. 69 minutes is fine - you made it in one piece, after all. And look what you saw along the way! I bet your son missed that fabulous yellow crab spider on the purple thistle. Having to stop and catch one's breath has a few advantages.

 

[Purky]

69 minutes is fine

63!

 

[VNwalking]

63!

Ooops. I stand corrected. 6 minutes is a big enough difference to allow for ordering and downing a good part of a cerveza after a climb like that.

 

[AZsunnyhiker]

Hi Purky, whish you a great hike. As I plan to go the Salvador in September, I will follow your posts with much interest!! Buen camino

What day do you start? I arrive in Leon on the 3rd of September, hoping to start 4yh or 5th.

 

[Purky]

 

[Kirkie]

Day 3 - La Robla - Poladura de la Tercia

I'm not gonna lie: I wasn't looking forward to the climb just after Buiza. I had vivid memories of doing it in 2018 and they weren't pleasant. I'm not a great climber and also not fond of it. It's just that the payoff on the Salvador is so worth it.

Anyway, my boy had other ideas. Not wanting to stand in his way, I released him just after the second fuente in Buiza. As he's a sporty dude, he's got all kinds of fitness-gizmo's on his phone and he's not afraid to show them. That's how I know it took him 39 minutes to get to the top. For you statistics-lovers: 2.78 km going up with an average speed of 4,2 km/hr. I took 63 minutes and don't want to know anything more. Oh, to be young again.

We're staying at the Posada in Poladura, nice and posh. I stayed in the albergue last time and am obviously looking for new experiences. Make sure to book a meal ahead of time (at least a day!) for either the albergue or the Posada. The chef here is unrelenting.

View attachment 174528 View attachment 174529 View attachment 174530 View attachment 174531 View attachment 174532 View attachment 174533 View attachment 174534

Photo number five only hints at the unfolding drama of the terrain. Thanks for the reminders.

 

[beliperegrina]

What day do you start? I arrive in Leon on the 3rd of September, hoping to start 4yh or 5th.

I hope to start on 3rd of September, planning 7-8 stages, as I walk slowly. You will catch me!

 

[peregrina2000]

View attachment 174581

That spot is beautiful at any time of the year and in any weather. It is one of those stages where the awe is palpable, if that makes any sense! Buen camino, Purky&Son!

 

[caminka]

I have only stayed in a hostal in the center. On some of my Salvador caminos, I spent the previous night in Pola de Gordón, and then I just went straight on through Mieres to Oviedo. But I like Mieres and would stay there again. It’s not pretty or charming, but it has a very good vibe and is very lively. Good food!

There are two “pilgrim possibilities” that I see in Gronze - the university dorm option and the new albergue a few kms out of town in El Rollu. I haven’t stayed in either place, so hopefully people who have slept in Mieres more recently than I will chime in.

I’ve sent Ender a WhatsApp. I know that he had grandkids visiting recently, so he may be tied up, but I’ll let you know.

I've stayed in the student accommodation two years ago. It was quite a bit of luxury, with single rooms with facilities inside and very cheap washing and drying machine. The old centre was about 7min away.
The building is in the southern part of Mieres and at the time thr pasarela was out of commission. We crossed on the first bridge to avoid backtracking.
I liked Mieres.

 

[peregrina2000]

I liked Mieres.

Me too! It’s not pretty, it’s not historic, but it is a very nice place to spend an evening!

 

[AZsunnyhiker]

I hope to start on 3rd of September, planning 7-8 stages, as I walk slowly. You will catch me!

Awesome! I'm planning for 7 too. Not wanting to do big stages so I can enjoy more than my last Camino. Plus this one looks hard!!!!

 

[unadara]

My SS this year was so good I want to go back soon, we took 6/7 stages and I loved it all. I've booked to go in Sept/Oct to the Lebaniego/Vadiniese and am tempted to make a "break" for Buiza and do the Mountains again and then into Oviedo-walk/train. I'll see what the weather brings as I'll be Solo female this time round,

 

[Purky]

Day 4 - Poladura de la Tercia - Bendueños

Rough day. Long day. Too long actually, because I have sworn a solemn oath to never take on a 32 k day in the mountains again. Ever. So that's rather serious.

It took me about 12 hours to finish; Sonnyboy did it in 11. He wanted to bust a gut or something, so he went solo after Fresneo. But he was knackered too. He did bust that gut though.

The reason for my stubbornness was the albergue in Bendueños. Having visited in 2018 I wanted to make sure to stay there again. And after all is said and done, I'm still glad we pulled it off. There is something about this place... I'm writing this on the back-patio with that view. If you know, you know.

 

[David Tallan]

I have only stayed in a hostal in the center. On some of my Salvador caminos, I spent the previous night in Pola de Gordón, and then I just went straight on through Mieres to Oviedo. But I like Mieres and would stay there again. It’s not pretty or charming, but it has a very good vibe and is very lively. Good food!

There are two “pilgrim possibilities” that I see in Gronze - the university dorm option and the new albergue a few kms out of town in El Rollu. I haven’t stayed in either place, so hopefully people who have slept in Mieres more recently than I will chime in.

I’ve sent Ender a WhatsApp. I know that he had grandkids visiting recently, so he may be tied up, but I’ll let you know.

I stayed in El Rollu. It was quite a nice albergue. I have vivid memories of the hospitalera greeting us on the porch and picking and offering us figs from the tree that was right next to the porch. For me, it was worth the bit of extra walk after Mieres.

 

[Purky]

Day 5 - Bendueños - La Peña

Mundane, I think that is the best way to describe today. Especially after the ridiculousness of yesterday. After Campomanes it's pretty much all asphalt or hard surface, and the droning noise of the parallel highway is annoying.

On the bright side: virtually flat so all the time in the world to relax and recuperate. Which we both needed. We found shelter in hostal La Peña. Still close enough to Mieres to have diner and a beer there. I quite like Mieres, it has a nice vibe.

Didn't make a lot of photos today.

 

[Purky]

Almost there.

 

[Purky]

Day 6 - La Peña - Oviedo

Easiest day so far. Since we only had to cover about 18 kilometers we could sleep in for a bit. The climb up to El Padrun was a doddle, the Salvador bootcamp must have been a succes.

The Senda Verde was beautiful. Just before that, when we were having a coffee in Olloniego, the young bartending lady approached me at our table outside when SonofPurky went to the toilet.

She wanted to know who that young man was. When I told her he was my son she sighed and commented: "He is a beautiful man." My fatherly pride went as high as Coito hill.

The Salvador is done, we're in Oviedo now at the albergue. Winding down after diner, ready to tackle the Primitivo tomorrow.

 

[VNwalking]

Well done, you two beautiful men.
I hope you also post as you head out on the Primitivo. Any plans to go off piste on your way out of town to check out the two fabulous old churches up in Naranco? Very much recommended! (Red line below is the Primitivo, the fat blue one gets you up to Naranco and back down to the Camino.)

 

[peregrina2000]

Winding down after diner, ready to tackle the Primitivo tomorrow.

My last time in Oviedo, a few years ago, I had a meal at that very spot, outdoors at the Poke place. Oh, how Spain has changed, poke bowls in the centro histórico!

Any plans to go off piste on your way out of town to check out the two fabulous old churches up in Naranco?

I would second that, but you may already know that VN and I are kind of nut cases when it comes to ancient architecture. Not that I know much of anything about it, but I love to see it and think about the people who carved those beautiful capitals and built those buildings.

 

[VNwalking]

My last time in Oviedo, a few years ago, I had a meal at that very spot, outdoors at the Poke place. Oh, how Spain has changed, poke bowls in the centro histórico!

Wow. I missed that. But I went to Pizzeria La Competencia and had no complaints whatsoever. Yum.

 

[David Tallan]

Any plans to go off piste on your way out of town to check out the two fabulous old churches up in Naranco? Very much recommended!

Also recommended by me. One of the churches was actually the royal palace of Ramiro I, who reigned from 842, the year that Alfonso II ("the first pilgrim") died. So you can imagine yourself back to 9th century Asturias and the earliest days of the Camino.

 

[VNwalking]

Also recommended by me.

When I was there in April both were closed for restoration, but even if you can't get in the outsides are very impressive. And there is a wonderful little museum nearby.